HANDS ON: The ecstasy of Moser’s new Gold StreamlinerRicardo Sime
A gold watch. What do you think of when I say those words? A gaudy piece of jewellery that shows you have more money than taste. Or maybe the ultimate flex. Well, when I think of my favourite precious metal, I think of what it is a brand is trying to accomplish with its use. Does the use of gold elevate the overall experience of the watch or does it come off as a money grab? Such were the questions I posed myself the first moments I laid eyes on Moser’s new gold Streamliner.
The Streamliner, in all it’s Flyback Chronograph glory, was first introduced to us in 2020. The watch, an absolute masterclass in design, was beautiful, and the first in a now expanded line. A line which now includes a perpetual calendar, a smaller centre seconds version, and a pretty cool-looking limited edition. For this new release, H.Moser & Cie have upped the ante by finally introducing gold to the mix.
Let’s take a closer look at the result.
When done right, gold can elevate a watch to blissful standards. On this Streamliner, that’s exactly the case. Based on the 40mm centre second model, the watch benefits from the upgrade. Before this, the polished and brushed surfaces had already created an effect of understated luxury. Yet, that always went hand in hand with a more casual/sporty look due to the use of stainless steel. The use of this 5N red gold now pushes the watch to the more dressy/casual side of the spectrum. Which is welcomed, and something I hope to see more of in the future with this line.
Beyond the change in material, most other case specs remain the same. We still get 120 metres of water resistance as well as a sapphire sandwich design. However, thickness has slightly increased to 12.1mm from 11.8. Why you might ask? Well, let’s head to the dial to find out.
If you thought the new gold case and bracelet is where all the new goodies ended, you’d be wrong. H.Moser & Cie decided to pair this gold Streamliner with a Vantablack® dial. It’s the second time they’ve done this on the Streamliner and the first time in a non-limited run (their Only Watch MB&F collaboration being the first).
The mixture of black and gold here just works. Add to that the lack of a logo and the deep, void-like black dial does well to highlight, and constantly return your attention to, the gold case. As well as the beautiful mechanism located at 6 o’clock (we’ll circle back to that later).
One interesting aspect of this particular dial is the indices. Due to the extremely delicate nature of Vantablack®, gold indexes couldn’t be applied. Instead the dial has cutouts done before the Vantablack® is applied, with gold indexes being pushed slightly upwards from behind. This gives the indexes depth. Something our next part in focus does well.
Powering this lustrous beaut is the HMC 804 movement. It’s a one-minute flying Tourbillon automatic movement that has been used in multiple references in the brand. Like all tourbillons, the goal of the movement is to counteract the effects of gravity on timekeeping, no matter the position the watch is in. On the 804, that’s accomplished with the constant movement of the tourbillion as well as the use of two identical hairsprings, providing a secondary point of isochronism.
As for the other specs, the movement beats at 21600 bph. It also provides a minimum of 72 hours of power reserve on a full wind. A wind that should be easier with to achieve with the bi-directional 18-carat red-gold rotor.
One of my favourite parts of the Streamliners design is the scalloped bracelet. That interplay between polished and brushed surfaces immediately lets you know the quality of it. But now, seeing it in gold, I appreciate the design that much more.
What makes things even better is after this feast for the eyes, the fit on the wrist is just spectacular. The version I got to see and photograph was spot on for my 7.5 inch wrist. I’m talking “someone try to catch me” good. When the size is dialled in on this bracelet, it’s hard not to consider it one of the best out there.
Many times, you find brands simply throwing new designs and references on the wall, in the hope something will stick. Other brands do something I appreciate much more. They create a watch and stick with it. Because a watch, without the support of its brand will always fail. With the Streamliner, H.Moser & Cie spent several years working on the design and concept. And in the near three years since it has been released, they’ve doubled down on the offering, with multiple references.
This new version is like a gold medal recognising their efforts. A beautiful watch that announces to the world, just in case you thought otherwise, the Streamliner is here to stay.
The H.Moser & Cie Gold Streamliner pricing and availability:
The H.Moser & Cie Gold Streamliner is now available. Price: $119,000 USD