HANDS ON: Take flight with the stealthy new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400

Ricardo Sime

Have you ever seen a Lockheed Martin F-22 Raptor? Smooth surfaces. A low profile. Amazing cutting-edge specifications. All these things come together to create a fantastical machine. It’s the fighter plane a child from the ’70s would have considered futuristic. And that was the same general feeling I got when I spent time with this new watch from Oris. It’s like an F-22 Raptor, but for my wrist. That may seem like a tall order but nonetheless, feast your eyes on the latest and greatest from the brand; the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400.

The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 is the next evolution of the 400 movement. After seeing it at the heart of some of their most popular lines like the Aquis and the Big Crown, the calibre now presents itself in a more futuristic body. Think of the original ProPilot X and then start trimming until you get a watch that can easily be worn daily. But before I get into more of my overall thoughts, lets dive into the nitty gritty specifications on this mechanical beast.

The Case

It all starts with the case. Forged from a smoky grey titanium, it immediately becomes apparent that this isn’t the Propilot of yester year. Unlike it’s larger predecessor, the Oris Propilot X calibre 400 comes in a nice, svelte size of 39mm. Lug to lug comes in a very reasonable 47mm while thickness is a comfortable 11.8mm.

I know there are those who may cry foul at the downsize. However I have to note that a larger dial to bezel ratio makes the watch wear like a 40-41mm. And from the image above, you can also discern that a good portion of the thickness goes to a steep turbine bezel and a beautifully curved sapphire crystal. When taken together, the watch wears quite well on multiple wrists.

As for the remaining case specifications, we are still blessed with 100 metres of water resistance and a screw down. So the watch should be comfortable in multiple situations.

The Dial

Moving in from the case, we are met with three different dials. A salmon dial, a blue dial and the grey dial we are are reviewing today. All three are very spartan in their appearance, which harkens back to the fact that this is indeed a member of Oris’ Propilot collection. This also means legibility is superb, with index colour matched date wheels and contrasting colours.

To seal the no nonsense deal, text on the dial is kept to the bare minimum, stating the brand, model and power reserve.

The movement

Move away from the dial and flip the watch over to find the very capable Calibre 400. It’s perfectly displayed through the screw-down sapphire crystal caseback.

As for specifications, they are plenty and they are all good: -3/+5 seconds a day for timekeeping, a 120 hour (5 day) power reserve, up to a 10-year warranty and highly magnetic. With these specs, the Oris Propilot X Calibre 400 makes a strong case to be the only watch you’ll ever need.

The bracelet

The bracelet on the Propilot X Calibre 400 is reminiscent of that of it’s predecessor. Also titanium, it continues the multitude of angled facets we saw on the case, creating this seamless transition. And because the first link curves down sharply, the watch as a whole hugs the wrist.

Keeping this all together is the lift clasp we’ve come to know and love on multiple Oris references. It’s simple and secure. Though there is one downside to this choice. That is the lack micro adjustment, which could mean never finding that perfect fit in reaction to either hotter or colder weather.

Yet even with that option unavailable, the overall sizing of the watch along with the bracelets taper means the watch head barely moves of the wrist. Regardless of the bracelet’s fit.

The verdict

When I first saw the Propilot X Calibre 400, I was a bit surprised. I had long considered its predecessor a one time thing; Oris’ answer to a concept piece that fans could buy. Yet, now that I see this watch, the future should have been clearer to me. For a brand that prides itself on being the people’s watch brand, refining the design so more could enjoy it makes sense. By doing this, they have once again created a watch that has concept-piece vibes with the added bonus of  specifications that more collectors are looking for.

Now, even with top of the line specs and a more welcoming design, I know the overall aesthetic here will not be for everyone. But for those looking for something sporty and a bit different, this checks off many boxes. It also now takes a rightful place atop Oris’ pilot collections. Personally, I’m very much behind where this is going.

Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Pricing and Availability:

The Oris Propilot X Calibre 400 will become available on Oris’ website and from Oris dealers in April 2022. Pricing will be $4300 USD