The year was 1997, the Spice Girls were busy spicing up life, and Leo was king of the world. It was a great time to be alive, and not just if you were a 13-year-old-girl. Because if you were a fan of stainless steel sports watches, it was also the year Patek Philippe introduced the Aquanaut. Taking its design cues from the casually elegant Nautilus, it was initially released as a slightly more accessible alternative, and aimed at an active and younger generation of watch lovers. But it quickly stepped out of big brother’s shadow, and has since become an important (if sometimes polarising) pillar of the brand’s sports watches. To celebrate its 20th birthday, Patek have this year released the Aquanaut ref. 5168G. For the first time, the Aquanaut is available in an 18k white gold case, and has been given Jumbo status with its 120m water resistant case upsized from 40mm to 42.2mm. The dimensions may have changed, but the three-part design retains the same lines and curves, and the distinctive rounded octagonal bezel keeps its mix of polished edges and vertical satin-brushed finishing on top. Measuring only 8.25mm thick, it’s also still decidedly slim. Its slender profile… Read More
I imagine there’d be some decent perks that would go along with being a bud of The Weeknd. You’d probably get to meet Daft Punk. You probably wouldn’t get to meet Justin Bieber. And maybe he’d pick you up to go bowling in a sweet ride with a panther in his passenger seat. Pretty great perks. But the real value of working with, and befriending Abel Makkonen Tesfaye seems to kick in around birthday time. Just ask French Montana, who received an iced out Patek Philippe Nautilus in November last year from The Weeknd, successfully present-shaming the whole world in the process. Now, it seems the birthday-watch is making its way into the pair’s music, with new French Montana song feat. The Weeknd ‘A Lie’ starring both French’s new Nautilus and a rose gold model on leather on The Weeknd. The song drops lines like “A hundred thousand for the time” and “House on my neck / ‘Nother house on my wristband”. As well as this one, which I’m sure we can all relate to: “My life’s invested in bein’ a f*cking legend.” The moral of the story is, even though it’s Saturday, we all need to get closer to The Weeknd.
Editor’s Note: Sometimes it’s the first line of a story that grabs you, but in this case, it was the last. The very last sentence in fact. Adam Craniotes, co-founder of RedBar Group and longtime friend of Time+Tide (go on a virtual tour of NYC with the big man here, just don’t drive home afterwards, that Bloody Mary looks bloody strong) recently penned a review of the Patek Philippe: The Art of Watches Grand Exhibition and it concludes with these words: All in all, it’s hard to overstate just how incredible – and important – this exhibition is. At a time when the industry is reeling from a worldwide economic downturn, buyer reluctance in the face of years of out of control price hikes, and indifference from a new generation of consumers, the Art of Watches Grand Exhibition makes a compelling case for traditional watchmaking as a relevant exercise to novices and seasoned collectors alike. The occasional tremors of FOMO (fear of missing out, on horological majesty) that had afflicted all in the T+T office since the exhibition was announced swelled in my chest to full blown, full body envy. I had it bad. The exhibition was incredible, important. So, damn. How could we transport… Read More
Heritage is here to stay. What started as a trend intended to appeal to the hard core of collectors has slipped into the mainstream, and somewhere along the way it became a key pillar in major brands’ release strategies. In 2007 it was very much novelty, now it’s the new normal. Case in point is Patek Philippe’s hero model of 2017 – the 5320G Perpetual Calendar, an undeniably handsome take on a very Patek complication. The 5320G is not a remake of a particular vintage reference (though it does bear a striking resemblance to the ref. 3448); rather it’s a melange of mid-century design codes, neatly combined in a 40mm white gold, retro-modernist package. Most of the attention heaped upon the 5320G has focused on the dial, and it’s easy to see why. The layout is balanced, with day and month apertures at the top, and a moonphase display and pointer date at the bottom. The functions at six are flanked by relatively discreet portholes displaying day/night and leap year indicators respectively. Aside from that the dial is a very warm ivory or cream colour, paired with applied black gold Arabic numerals and syringe-style hands. Both hands and numerals are… Read More
When you really fall for someone, there’s a point where you just can’t get close enough. It’s the same with Patek Philippe. Over the years, we’ve photographed a wide range of their models, and the closer the shot, the tighter the macro, it’s almost always a case of the more magnified the wonder. These are our favourite nine. Choosing was hard, but that’s love, we guess. The first line from the review of the Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph Ref. 5370P: The new Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph (Ref.5370P to its friends) is the new must have über-Patek. The second line from the review of the Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph Ref. 5370P: The talk about Patek Philippe this year centred on their controversial attempt to break into younger market segments – AKA the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. It’s easy then to forget that Patek released other watches, many of them every inch the classic Patek. The first line from the post about the Patek Philippe 5270G Perpetual Calendar Chronograph: “It’s the Macdaddy”, says our host. Whatever it is, we’re dying here. The first line from the review of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-001: Patek Philippe have released a rose gold and dark chocolate version of the classic Nautilus 5711. Never mind the buzz-piece… Read More
If you like pilot’s watches, you need to head to the nearest airshow immediately. Irrespective of whether your eyeline lifts up to the craft in the air, or stays firmly on wrists, an airshow will give you more of a chance to spot aviation related watches than just about any other place. This setting – Avalon airshow, on the outskirts of Geelong – is where I spotted this dashing Patek Philippe 5524G, AKA the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. It’s a watch that Felix and I hotly debated when it was released a couple of years ago. To recap, the topline quote was this: “The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is the watch that’s confusing the most people at Baselworld 2015. While the familiar Patek quality is there, that is pretty much the only thing about this watch people are associating with the name on the dial.” We wondered, not only then, but several times throughout the year, whether it would be worn by real pilots, or by mere earthbound Patek collectors? This question was answered emphatically by the watch’s owner, Sebastian, who is not only a pilot, but who is authorised to fly in formation – and has done so with the Australian… Read More
Editor’s note: One morning at work, around 9:20am, I looked up from my desk and saw a face peering through the front door. This isn’t so unusual; our office has the sort of shop front that makes us look like we might be a retail space – we field a few of these queries a week. So when the face opened the door, and walked in, I certainly didn’t expect it to say, “Is this Time+Tide?” Turns out David works a few doors down the road, and is a big fan of our work (thanks for that), and recognised our office from videos. So, after we made introductions I (naturally enough) asked what was on his wrist, and was (to be frank) somewhat disappointed to see that it was an Apple Watch. But when David said that the Apple was his work watch, and that his other watch (to paraphrase bumper stickers everywhere) was a Patek, I had to know more. A few weeks later I caught up with David and found out the story behind his Patek Philippe Aquanaut. You don’t see too many Aquanauts around – what’s the story behind it? I’ve always wanted a Patek, and two… Read More
Last year Patek Philippe’s showstopper Basel release was the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. Perhaps the most notable feature of Patek’s foray into the world of aviation watches was just how polarising it was. While diehard PP fans quickly dug into the archives to prove the wildly off-brand model actually had a forebear, most of the watch world issued a pretty heavy shrug – yeah, it was a pilot, sure to draw a younger crowd, but it was also in white gold and not at a price point that was going to unlock younger wallets. In other words, it created conversation. It was genuinely divisive. Fast-forward to Basel 2016 and Patek’s headline release, the reference 5930G World Time Chronograph is about as far removed from the Calatrava Pilot as possible. The 5930G is a very safe watch for Patek – combining two complications the brand is famous for, with an exquisitely designed and executed dial, all wrapped up in an elegant 39.5mm white gold case. It’s a watch that has met with nothing but praise since it was announced. Patek have made a world time chronograph before, but that was a unique piece made way back in the 1940, so it… Read More