Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R
Fergus Nash- The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava brings a vibrant purple dial into their ladies’ Calatrava catalogue
- The dial is made up of over 50 layers of lacquer on an embossed dial
- The Calibre 240 is visible from the sapphire display caseback, and is beautifully finished
Patek Philippe have been taking design risks for decades, but there’s still something lofty about the brand which makes any deviation from tradition seem shocking. For all intents and purposes, this new edition of a ladies’ Calatrava is as refined and classical as a dress watch could be, however the vivid shade of fuchsia purple is enough to stimulate the senses as though being caressed by a velvet glove. Released at Watches & Wonders 2023 and paired with a slip of a case, the Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava truly embraces the feminine with a resounding confidence.
The dial of the watch begins with an embossed plate bearing the concentric circle pattern, not too far off from a floral motif. Then, over 50 layers of the coloured lacquer are applied to achieve the rich purple tone that’s still completely dynamic as the light moves around the textures. Sharpened hour markers and dauphine rose gold hands cooperate to display a calm sense of stability, and also grant a surprising amount of legibility for a watch with no minute markers. The 76 diamond-set bezel transitions between the dial and the 18K rose gold case, with smooth-flowing lines that are comfortable both to the eyes and the wrist. The case is 35mm in diameter, and only 7.4mm thick, making for an extremely sophisticated silhouette.
From the back of the watch, and pleasingly filling up a lot of the sapphire caseback’s diameter, is the Patek Philippe Calibre 240. You won’t find any outrageous complications here, however you will see one of the world’s best watchmakers operating at their pinnacle. The finishing is impeccable from the polished chamfers, Geneva stripes, and perlage. The 22K gold micro-rotor is engraved with the Calatrava cross, and the 48 hours of power reserve operate at a 3Hz beat rate.
The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava pricing and availability:
The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava is now live on their website, and will be available from select retailers. Price: On request
| Brand | Patek Philippe |
| Model | 4997/200R Calatrava |
| Case Dimensions | 35mm (D) x 7.4mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18K rose gold |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Purple |
| Strap | Satin purple calfskin |
| Movement | Calibre 240 |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | On request |