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The new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm is a more wearable take on the legendary icon The new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm is a more wearable take on the legendary icon

The new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm is a more wearable take on the legendary icon

Zach Blass

Look, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is irrefutably one of the three most iconic dive watches ever made. Which of these legendary divers you favour is entirely subjective, but a point of hesitation for me in terms of the Fifty Fathoms, within the context of my smaller wrist, was its typically 45mm diameter build. At this size, its 50.8mm lug-to-lug length, while perfectly suitable for an average-sized wrist, was just too intimidating for me. To be fair, there are more compact Bathyscaphe models, but they do not have the original icon’s exact design. There are smaller Fifty Fathoms models as well, but, for better or worse, the 40mm size is reserved for rare limited edition models that are… well.. rare and limited. Last year, we saw a first-ever middle ground-sized 42mm model with the stainless steel Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act I – but, again, limited edition. Now, however, the wait is over. We now have a new first-ever 42mm Fifty Fathoms in red gold and titanium – and, phew, they are not limited editions.

The case

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm 7

To be exact, the diameter of the case is 42.3mm. But, let’s be clear, while the case thickness of 14.3mm by no means places it as the thinnest among the current models of the Mount Rushmore-three of legendary dive watches. Its 47mm lug-to-lug, though, does make it the most compact across the wrist. So, this is a huge development and game-changer for the wearability of the model for wrists like mine. The case remains a screw-down crown secured 300 metres water-resistant and it still is equipped with a large and legible sapphire-capped timing bezel with a luminous timing scale.

The dial

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm 18

Whether in red gold, or in titanium as we have here in hand, you have the option of a blue or black sunburst dial. Everything about these dials is identical to the layouts seen on the 45mm models, with applied numerals at 12’, 3’, 6’, and 9’ with applied indexes marking the remaining hours. The handset for the three central hands remains the same, and the date complication remains at the 4:30 position. All of the applied indices and numerals, along with the three central hands, are filled with SuperLuminova for visibility in darkness.

The straps

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm 3

Out of the gate, there are plenty of strap configurations to choose from – which is good considering its awkward-for-aftermarket-options 21.5mm lug width. But, let’s be clear, the straps are affixed to the case with hex bolts. So you’re probably not going to want to play strap monster anyway. The hex bolts also ensure these straps are not popping off the case by accident or under stress, very indicative of Blancpain’s commitment to creating true dive watches. Now, there are three dial-matching strap configurations for the red gold and titanium models: a Tropic textured rubber strap, a sail-canvas strap with a rubber under, and a NATO strap. Between these three I would probably go for the sail-canvas, but the Tropic is the most faithful to the original Fifty Fathoms. I would say the NATO is my least favourite purely because any NATO strap will add bulk to the thickness with its underpass – as well as obstruct the movement.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm 17

Exclusive to the titanium models, however, is a case-matching bracelet. It is a brushed three-piece link bracelet with a triple folding clasp.

The movement

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm 2

In its smaller size there is no sacrifice to the movement. In fact, it also uses the in-house automatic 1315 that has three series-coupled barrels that allow the movement to offer a full five days of power reserve. It also has a silicon hairspring for resistance against magnetism. But, while highly technical, the movement is also very handsome as well with snailing and glistening chamfers to the bevels of the bridges. Interestingly, Blancpain has also opted to utilise the historic 50s-inspired winding rotor design and, as we have come to expect from Blancpain, it is made of solid 18K gold that is then NAC coated. Gold as a material means the rotor has a greater mass, and, in turn, more efficient winding.

The verdict

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm 4

With this scale-down, we ultimately have a much more apples-to-apples comparison between the three dive icons – you know which watches I am talking about. But, to reiterate, the numbers and specs reveal that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42 has by far the longest power reserve and it is also the most compact lug to lug across the wrist. It also happens to be the most expensive of the three, but when you consider the extended power reserve, and flourishes such as finer movement finishing and a solid gold rotor, it is easier to understand this tiering. And, a little price hack for you, opt for the strap models on a pin buckle closure rather than a deployant and you will save a bit of money.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm 5

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm models are available now for purchase and are regular production models. Price: On NATO: US$16,600,A$26,500 (titanium), US$30,400 (red gold) / On tropic rubber: US$16,600 (titanium w/ pin buckle), US$18,400, A$29,300 (titanium w/ deployant), US$30,400 (red gold w/ pin buckle), US$34,300 (red gold w/ deployant) /  On sail-canvas: US$16,600 (titanium w/ pin buckle), US$18,400, A$29,300 (titanium w/ deployant), US$30,400 (red gold w/ pin buckle), US$34,300 (red gold w/ deployant) / On titanium bracelet: US$19,300 (titanium only)

Brand Blancpain
Model Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm
Case Dimensions 42.3mm (D) x 14.3mm (T) x 47mm (LTL)
Case Material Titanium or red gold
Water Resistance 300m (screw-down crown)
Crystal(s) Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback
Dial Blue or black sunburst dial
Strap NATO (titanium or red gold models)

Tropic rubber, or sail-canvas straps (titanium or red gold models with either a pin buckle or deployant clasp)

Titanium bracelet with triple folding clasp (titanium only)

Movement In-house automatic 1315
Power Reserve 120 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Availability Now
Price On NATO: US$16,600/A$26,500 (titanium), US$30,400 (red gold)

On tropic rubber: US$16,600 (titanium w/ pin buckle), US$18,400/A$29,300 (titanium w/ deployant), US$30,400 (red gold w/ pin buckle), US$34,300 (red gold w/ deployant)

On sail-canvas: US$16,600 (titanium w/ pin buckle), US$18,400/A$29,300 (titanium w/ deployant), US$30,400 (red gold w/ pin buckle), US$34,300 (red gold w/ deployant)

On titanium bracelet: US$19,300 (titanium only)