Breguet had a stellar year in 2019 as they offered a host of new watches, some of which delivered sportiness, and others that brought a sense of refined classicism. While Abraham-Louis Breguet, the Neuchâtel-born founder of the maison, might have been more comfortable with some of the more traditional pieces in the collection, here are three standout watches that he would have been happy to bear his name.
BREGUET MARINE 5517
The Breguet 5517 Marine in titanium has the presence of a watch much larger than its relatively reserved 40mm. It benefits greatly from this reduced size, which allows its masculine form and high level of craftsmanship to do the talking when other watches try to take your eyes over with brute force. The gunmetal tone of the titanium in comparison to steel works brilliantly with the brown dial, which is the perfect base for the central pattern, recalling the waves of the sea.
Ref No: 5517TI/G2/TZ0. Case size: 40mm. Case material: Titanium. Movement: 777A. Price: AUD $26,800
BREGUET CLASSIQUE 5177 BLUE ENAMEL
At first glance, the Breguet Classique 5177 Blue Enamel’s subtle details remain hidden. But this changes in a heartbeat, as you take it in with a longer view. The Grand Feu enamel dial is stunning. That almost goes without saying. But what really brings this piece to life are the minute and hour markers (look closely), the satisfyingly shaped date window (with expertly colour-matched date wheel) at 3 o’clock, and the ghost signature between six and centre.
Ref No: 5177BB/2Y/9V6. Case size: 38mm. Case material: White Gold. Movement: 777Q. Price: AUD $32,000
BREGUET TYPE 20 ONLY WATCH 2019
The Breguet inclusion for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019 was one of the nicest from the entire catalogue. Inspired by the French military pilot’s watches of the mid-’50s, the Type XX collection delivers authentic design from the era, including a bold onion crown, pump pushers and pencil hands. This example was produced with a soft light brown dial that speaks directly to the vintage tropical dials that are now highly collectible.
Ref No: Type 20 Only Watch 2019. Case size: 38.3mm. Case material: Steel. Movement: Valjoux Calibre 235. Final auction price: CHF 210,000