Why Rolex is the brand that won 2023

Why Rolex is the brand that won 2023

Zach Blass

I have to confess, this was not my original game plan. Initially, I was actually going to make the case that no brand won 2023. While manufacturers certainly each had their hit single, I did not particularly feel like there was a brand this year where every novelty song in their album for the year was a banger. In a way, 2023 felt like Apple’s off-year with product launches. One year there is a revolutionary new feature and design, the next a few megapixels are added to the camera. But, as basic of an answer as it may seem, or at the risk of being labeled a ‘simp’ fanboy of the brand, if I had to choose one brand that won 2023 it would have to be Rolex. I am a bit reluctant to award a brand that remains impossible to obtain at retail, but with a few considerations listed below, there is a reasonable argument to be made in my opinion.

Exhibit A: The Crown drops acid

At Watches & Wonders 2023, sure there were hit singles, as I have dubbed them, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph or Cartier Tank Normale. But whenever we were discussing a brand’s range of releases, it was ultimately Rolex that was the hot topic. The immediate point of discussion was the pair of more wild Rolex releases that had us all wondering if we had dropped acid before our appointments – or, rather if Rolex board members and designers were on a hallucinating trip when designing them. Rolex has on occasion had some rather crazy pieces enter the collection, like the Daytona ‘Leopard’. Far more often than not, however, like 99% of the time, the catalogue roster is much more tame and safe in aesthetic. So, of course, when we were dealing with Rolex, emojis, and bubbles/balloons, in the same sentence, it was completely out of left field.

Reactions to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration Dial’ or Day-Date ‘Jigsaw’ were either mild or wild with no in-between. Purists wanted to hate them, and hypebeasts immediately pled their cases to their respective AD’s as to why they should receive an allocation. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration Dial’ has been spotted on the wrists of mere mortals in the collecting world, but the ‘Jigsaw’ Day-Date has been very elusive – with only mega-collectors like Tom Brady and Kevin O’Leary scoring allocations.

Rolex 2023

With Rolex so uncharacteristically letting their hair down, these two novelties have given me more hope that Rolex, who, again, typically plays it safe, will be willing to explore a bit more, push their limits, and expand what they are comfortable with. Sure, maybe balloons and emojis are not the direction some were hoping for. But, at least it is a sign Rolex will be willing to take these explorative tangents. The core identity of Rolex will never change, but an occasional outburst of playfulness will keep us all on our toes – far more exciting than simply wondering whether or not they will add a millimetre or shave a millimetre off the next generation of a Submariner.

Exhibit B: RLX Titanium debuts in a wearable size

Rolex Yacht Master RLX Titanium 2023

Exploration, if even tame by other brands’ standards, but, perhaps, major within the context of Rolex, was really the throughline theme of their novelties. While not the first RLX Titanium production model, the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium is certainly the first wearable one. When RLX Titanium debuted in production in the form of a 50mm Deep Sea Challenge, it was exciting but also a bit meh in that how many people could reasonably wear a watch of that size? After Sir Ben Ainslie’s prototype titanium Yacht-Master was belatedly discovered, we all assumed the Yacht-Master would be the first to get the RLX Titanium treatment. Now that it is finally here, aside from the obvious complaints of ‘unobtanium’ there were a lot of people happy about its arrival. We finally have a wearable and reasonably sized RLX Titanium watch to try and chase after. Although, the only spot in the wild I have seen so far is on the wrist of Tom Cruise.

So, the Rolex Deepsea Challenge RLX Titanium came in November 2022, and the Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium at the end of March 2023. This is promising in that it seems relatively safe to assume we can expect at least one yearly evolution with the material. With a 70th anniversary Submariner yet to be revealed, and with Rolex appearing to be a tad more wild and exploratory, just imagine an RLX Titanium Submariner. Were such a watch on a matching bracelet it would be big news, but if they pivoted to an Oysterflex rubber bracelet with a titanium glidelock clasp it would break the watch-internet.

Exhibit C: Exhibition casebacks and the potential of the 1908

Again, wild for Rolex, but completely ordinary for other brands, 2023 returned exhibition caseback to the Rolex catalogue. Previously, the only Rolex watches to leave the factory with an exhibition caseback was a certain range of Cellini Prince models which have long been discontinued. We finally had our first-ever Daytona with an exhibition caseback, with an updated chronograph movement, and a brand new calibre 7104 exhibited in a brand new collection.

The 1908 replaced the now-discontinued Cellini range, which ultimately felt like a bit of an afterthought. No big moves were being made in the Cellini line, and, while incremental updates can be tolerated in staples like the Submariner and Explorer, the overshadowed Cellini collection really needed a shakeup if it was going to have any relevance within the watch enthusiast world. A rather tame watch that felt like something Rolex should have made long ago, the excitement around it stemmed from the fact its new 7104 calibre was an exhibited movement rather than hidden behind a solid caseback. Perhaps even more exciting is the potential of the 1908’s growth. Could this finally be the collection where Rolex explores further complications? Just imagine a 1908 tourbillon, or, at least more based on precedent and reality, a triple or perpetual calendar 1908.

Exhibit D: Rare usage of vintage-inspired cues

Rolex Daytona 24 Hours of Le Mans 2023 m126529ln 0001 2302jva 001

Arguably the best Rolex watch Rolex has released in recent years, the Rolex Daytona 24 Hours of Le Mans Centenary Special Edition received huge applause from Rolex fans. Even bitter detractors who harp on the ‘unobtanium’ factor conceded a tip of the hat to this one. Why? Well, eagle-eyed enthusiasts caught on to the subtle vintage-inspired cues: the Singer-era typeface and markings on the counters made famous by ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona references and the red Daytona text also evocative of vintage references. Pivoting to the modern side of the coin, rather than vintage-inspired, it also proved the exhibition caseback of the platinum anniversary model at Watches & Wonders 2023 was not a one-off thing.

It seems so silly that fonts could cause such a commotion. But the fact of the matter is that Rolex has never really waded into the heritage revival waters like every other brand has. All of their designs incrementally update forward, in that tweaks are only made to improve a design’s functionality and the aesthetic alterations follow suit to accommodate these tweaks. With everyone holding their breath awaiting the return of the Milgauss and wishing for its aesthetic to take cues from earlier models, this Le Mans Daytona offers some semblance of hope a Milgauss returns with a rotating bezel or dial that harkens back to the earliest models.

Summary judgment

Rolex Daytona 2023 movement exhibition

I fully concede that much of what I have presented offers hope and excitement for the future, rather than simply showcasing a strong 2023. But the fact remains that Rolex did not just remain a part of the conversation in the same manner it always has. Rolex gave us much more to discuss and debate, and far more novelty and change than they have in recent years – heck, the last decade. From a pop culture perspective, everyone was waiting to see which of the rich and famous would be spotted with them first. I have never seen more watch geeks excited by Met Gala wardrobes, with Roger Federer wearing a 1908 causing a big stir on our Instagram when we shared the snapshot. Look, for all of the other brands they each had one model that really stood out and excited me. Rolex was the only brand to have me enduringly contemplating and salivating over an entirely new range of novelties. Again, I originally was going to argue there was no clear winner for 2023. But, if I have to pick one I am giving it to Rolex this year.