WATCHES & WONDERS: Vacheron Constantin 2022 novelties overview
Zach BlassEditor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include videos, live pics, and our hands-on perspective. But for now let’s run through each of the new watches – here are the Vacheron Constantin 2022 novelties of Watches & Wonders.
Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Watch out Patek Philippe ref. 5270P, because a new salmon platinum perpetual calendar chronograph has just hit the market. The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph will have large appeal to collectors who love classic aesthetics and complications in modern sizing. Of course most will immediately clock the salmon-colored opaline dial, blued chronographs hands, white gold hands pertaining to the time, and the 950 platinum moon phase disc to match the case. But my favourite part of this offering, alongside its slamming salmon shade, is the calibre 1142 QP within. Sure, as expected it is incredibly well decorated. But, eagle-eyed gearheads will recognise its historic architecture. The calibre has had a lot of developments designed in-house to reach its final stage, but it is based on the legendary Lemania 2310 hand wound column-wheel chronograph calibre that notably served as the basis for Omega’s calibre 321. The offering certainly ticks a lot of boxes, but its 43mm diameter may be a point of contention. But, depending on its lug-to-lug measurement, it may not pose a problem to the smaller wristed.
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph |
| Ref. Number | 5000T/000P-B975 |
| Case Dimensions | 43mm x 12.94mm |
| Case Material | 950 Platinum |
| Dial | Salmon-coloured opaline |
| Crystal | Sapphire – front and back |
| Strap | Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales 950 platinum folding clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 1142 QP |
| Price | TBA |
Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
A feminine foil to the larger salmon reference, those interested in a more compact perpetual calendar offering will take notice of the precious cased Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watches – if not for their 36.5mm x 8.43mm dimensions than certainly their eye-catching mother of pearl dials and diamond-set bezels. You also have the ability to further switch up the aesthetic, with quick-release straps that make swapping them in and out a total breeze. Inside you have the calibre 1120 QP, affording the wearer 40 hours of power reserve.
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin |
| Ref. Number | 4305T/000G-B948 4305T/000R-B947 |
| Case Dimensions | 36.5mm x 8.43mm |
| Case Material | 18K white gold (ref. 4305T/000G-B948) 18K 5N pink gold (ref. 4305T/000R-B947) |
| Dial | Blue-grey mother of pearl (ref. 4305T/000G-B948) White mother of pearl (ref. 4305T/000R-B947) |
| Crystal | Sapphire – front and back |
| Strap | Blue grey (ref. 4305T/000G-B948) alligator leather with quick release Rosy beige (ref. 4305T/000R-B947) alligator leather with quick release |
| Movement | Calibre 1120 QP perpetual calendar |
| Price | TBA |
Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
When you have a winning formula you do not want to fix what isn’t broken. The Overseas has really hit its stride as of late, so it is a safer bet to introduce incremental evolutions to the in-demand collection. Many amongst our staff consider the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton as a grail watch, and now a new blue-accented configuration, previously seen only in white gold, hits their 18K 5n pink gold case. To learn more about the previous pink gold version of the watch, which shares the same calibre 1120QpSQ/1 within, you can head here for more info – or stay tuned for our more in-depth review.
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton |
| Ref. Number | 4300V/120R-B642 |
| Case Dimensions | 41.5mm x 8.1mm |
| Case Material | 18K 5N pink gold |
| Dial | Sapphire blue with 18K 5N pink gold markers |
| Crystal | Sapphire – front and back |
| Strap | 18K 5N pink gold bracelet, plus blue calf leather and blue rubber |
| Movement | Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 openworked perpetual calendar |
| Price | TBA |
Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
To say Vacheron was simply playing it safe above was a tad misleading, because alongside the newly accented Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton an entirely new design emerges today with the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton. A first for the collection, the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton flexes Vacheron’s horological prowess with their new in-house calibre 2160 SQ. It features mouth-watering hand-finishing expected of a holy trinity manufacture, but is executed in a contemporary and youthful way through its anthracite-tinted and brushed skeletonized bridges. There is a lot to unpack here, so stay tuned for a more in-depth review.
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton |
| Ref. Number | 6000V/110T-B935 (Grade 5 titanium), 6000V/110R-B934 (18K 5N pink gold) |
| Case Dimensions | 42.5mm x 10.39mm |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium or 18K 5N pink gold |
| Dial | Skeleton, blue accents for titanium and black for 18K 5N pink gold |
| Crystal | Sapphire – front and back |
| Strap | Titanium or 18K 5N pink gold bracelet, plus blue/black calfskin leather with white stitches an blue/black rubber |
| Movement | Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 openworked perpetual calendar |
| Price | TBA, 6000V/110T-B935 (Grade 5 titanium) is a Boutique Exclusive |
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding
A clean and compact classic with a twist, the patrimony finds itself wearing new blush pink and deep blue gradient shades. This new duo also debuts a redesigned case and crown profile, with compact squared lugs and more conical bezel profile that will ensure these thin time and date models slide under the cuff with ease. The view of the 2450 Q6/3 movement is largely obstructed by its winding rotor, albeit an attractively guilloched rotor, but, nonetheless, beneath it are the well-decorated bridges and mainplate. And for those concerned with how long the watch will tick off the wrist on a full wind, the Geneva Hallmark calibre will run for 40 hours.
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Patrimony Self-Winding |
| Ref. Number | 4115U/000G-B908, 4115U/000R-B907, 4110U/000G-B906, 4110U/000G-B905 |
| Case Dimensions | 36.5mm x 8.45mm |
| Case Material | 18K white gold (ref. 4305T/000G-B948), 18K 5N pink gold (ref. 4305T/000R-B947) |
| Dial | Deep blue / blush pink, gradient effect |
| Crystal | Sapphire – front and back |
| Strap | Strap Night blue/Rosy beige alligator leather with satin-effect |
| Movement | Calibre 2450 Q6/3 |
| Price | TBA |
“Les Royaumes Aquatiques®” Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater tourbillon – Flying Dutchman
We discuss all the time how watchmaking is an art form, but this watch is quite literally a work of art on the wrist. An 18K white gold minute repeater tourbillon depicting the legendary ghost ship “Flying Dutchman”, this Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater tourbillon flexes the peak of Vacheron Constantin’s horological craftsmanship through incredibly intricate miniature and grisaille enameling techniques. As beautiful as it is from the front, its in-house calibre is equally as striking – pun intended. All of the 471 components, from the gongs to the bridges, are decorated to the highest degree, with exquisite chamfers and striping. The 2755 TMR movement within offers 58 hours of power reserve, it’s energy indicated by the power reserve indicator on the movement side.
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | “Les Royaumes Aquatiques®” Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater tourbillon – Flying Dutchman |
| Ref. Number | 6540C/000G- 034C |
| Case Dimensions | 45mm x 13.52mm |
| Case Material | 18K white gold |
| Dial | 18K gold covered with “Grand Feu” miniature enamelling and grisaille enamelling representing a “Flying Dutchman” |
| Crystal | Sapphire – front and back |
| Strap | Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales, 18K white gold folding clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 2755 TMR |
| Price | TBA |
“Les Royaumes Aquatiques®” Les Cabinotiers Grisaille – Turtle
This 18K white gold creation pays tribute to the beauty of the oceans with an elegant play of chiaroscuro shadows in hand-enamelled grisaille. While less complicated than its Flying Dutchman counterpart, it is more slender and compact at 40mm in diameter and 9.42mm thick. As a time-only watch, there is also less interruption to the dial, the 18k white gold hands floating over the full dusky blue image of the turtle swimming above corals in the sea. The automatic in-house calibre 2460 SC is expectedly decorated to Geneva Hallmark standards, and offers the wearer 40 hours of power reserve.
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | “Les Royaumes Aquatiques®” Les Cabinotiers Grisaille – Turtle |
| Ref. Number | 2400C/000G-071C |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm x 9.42mm |
| Case Material | 18K white gold |
| Dial | 18K gold covered with “Grand Feu” miniature enamelling and grisaille enamelling representing a “Turtle” |
| Crystal | Sapphire – front and back |
| Strap | Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales, 18K white gold folding clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 2460 SC |
| Price | TBA |
For more information on Vacheron Constantin, you can head to their website here.