VIDEO: Head to head – what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders?

Time+Tide

“We’re here at the pinnacle of watchmaking – the top tier of the holy trinity!” That’s how Zach introduces Patek Philippe in this video with Ricardo that mulls over the brand’s best release of Watches & Wonders. And as you can quickly tell from his liberal use of superlatives – he’s pretty excited. But when it comes to choosing the single best release, the question boils down to these primary contenders.

Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time and 5226G-001

These two new watches from Patek Philippe may have a lot of antique flavour, but their addition to one of the loftiest catalogues in watchmaking prove that there’s still room for innovation. The granular dial is supposed to evoke the feeling of a vintage camera, while the charcoal grey fumé colouring warmly blends with the creamy tones of the off-white paint.

For the 5326G-001, Patek Philippe have combined their annual calendar and travel time complications for the first time in the calibre 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H, a movement even more complex than it’s name designation. Ensuring that the annual calendar is accurate to wherever the wearer is, it’s driven by the travel time complication, and the regular calendar is linked to the home time display. If you’re not much for travelling or complications but are enamoured by the gritty dial and hobnail case design, there’s also the reference 5226G-001 in the Calatrava collection with the same look in a smaller 40mm package.

 

Case Material	18k White Gold
Case Dimensions	41mm x 11.07mm / 40mm x 8.53mm
Water-Resistance	30m
Dial	Granular grey fumé
Straps	Brown alligator leather
Movement	Caliber 31‑260 PS QA LU FUS 24H / Caliber 26-330 S C
Power Reserve	48 hours / 45 hours
Complications	Hours, minutes, seconds, date / annual calendar, travel time
Price	65,000 CHF / 33,000 CHF

Ref. 5320G-011 Perpetual Calendar

When the reference 5320 first dropped in 2017, Patek Philippe had created a watch that summarised the classical character of the brand while pushing forward in legibility and modern expectations. Now, that watch is reimagined with a stunning salmon dial in opaline rose gold that dials up the vintage flair even higher without any sacrifice. (Like this dial? Check out our article on the best salmon dials here.)

With applied Arabic numerals that have bold black outlines, the dial really does pop a lot more than it would have otherwise and it doesn’t compromise the old-school atmosphere. The perpetual calendar is one of the most sought-after complications in all of watchmaking, requiring adjustment only once every 122 years. Despite being able to read the day, date, month, day/night and leap year status, the dial remains uncluttered and neat. The luxurious finishing of the calibre 324 S Q can also be seen from the exhibition caseback.

Case Material	18k White Gold
Case Dimensions	40mm x 11.13mm
Water-Resistance	30m
Dial	Salmon
Straps	Brown alligator leather
Movement	Calibre 324 S Q
Power Reserve	45 hours
Complications	Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar
Price	73,000 CHF