The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Golden Siena edges into pure, no-date dress territory
Buffy AcaciaThere aren’t many watches which reach universal acclaim as soon as they’re released, but the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor had the name Parmigiani Fleurier on everyone’s minds for months afterwards. The overhaul which Guido Terreni spearheaded transformed the brand from a niche luxury into one of the strongest visual identities that Swiss watchmaking has to offer. Whether you’re into stealth wealth or classy displays of yellow gold, sophistication is the name of their game. There was only one gripe with the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor from the utmost of purists, and that was the inclusion of a date window. Now, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena gives them no excuses not to want one.
If you’re curious about the ‘rules’ of dress watches, one of the oldest and most common ideas is that you can’t have a date display. Any complication at all is a sign of excess, which has no place in the strictest of formal settings. Of course, that is to be taken with a grain of salt, especially considering the long history of decadent formalwear. But, there’s definitely an element of elegance about a watch which simply displays the hours, the minutes and nothing else. The first Tonda PF Micro Rotor was never a very complex watch, but the removal of the date window allows the dial to breathe just that little bit more. In a watch where no detail can be out of place, every square millimetre counts.
Just because the dial has been simplified, doesn’t mean that it doesn’t have much going on. Looking beyond its functional features reveals a wealth of detail and high-level finishing. The dial is covered with Parmigiani Fleurier’s signature grain d’orge pattern of guilloché, also known as barleycorn. From a distance it provides quite a unique texture, which feels more organic than the usual style of guilloché. When viewed through a loupe, you can begin to appreciate how woven strands enclose neat, pointed ovals to achieve that effect. The outer section of the dial dips down into a stippled trench where the minute markers are located, ensuring that they’re easy enough to read. Small rhodium-plated wedges form the hour markers and match the rhodium-plated hands made of 18k white gold, providing a solid contrast to the Golden Siena colour of the dial.
Another unspoken rule of dress watches is that the case should be made out of precious metal. Parmigiani Fleurier are all too happy to embrace this one, on most of their models, but the first reference of the Tonda PF Golden Siena is moderately humble with a case of stainless steel. The bezel is still made from 950 platinum, which imparts just a taste of the high-luxury material and its tarnish-resistant qualities. I’m sure that future references will be released in solid gold and platinum options, perhaps with some limited-edition dials, but for now keeping this watch relatively accessible is fantastic news for PF fans.
It’s not a watch through which you’re supposed to flaunt wealth. Its luxury quality is apparent through the level of finishing and the thoughtful design, from the gently-protruding shoulders of the lugs to the knurling of the bezel. The overall case design is probably too intense to be considered a traditional dress watch, but then again, Parmigiani Fleurier never pretended to be a purely traditional brand. The case diameter is 40mm, offering substantial presence with such an open dial, and the 45.6mm lug-to-lug which should be comfortable on most wrists. Although a complication has been removed, the 7.8mm height remains the same, but thankfully that’s still slender enough as it is. 100m of water resistance means that you could take the watch swimming, if you’re either incredibly brave or don’t care about scratches.
The element which injects a bit of sportiness back into the Tonda PF Golden Siena package is the solid steel bracelet. Its polished sides flow down the taper nicely, while the central sections are all finely brushed for a silky-smooth matte sheen. The way the end-link fits into the lugs gives the illusion that the bracelet is actually integrated, which is also aided by the links which flair out for extra width. Assuming that the No Date case is the same as the older Tonda PF Micro Rotor, there are also Parmigiani Fleurier straps made from alligator leather which you may be able to swap in.
Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture their own movements in-house, and the PF703 is their ultra-thin calibre that’s only 3.07mm tall. There hasn’t been much significant change to the movement between its use in the No Date and standard models, except for the removal of the date complication of course. It has a power reserve of 48 hours and a beat rate of 3Hz, with elaborate Côtes de Genève on the plates and perlage visible beneath the other components. The micro-rotor is the star of the sapphire display caseback, also made from 950 platinum to be one of the heaviest micro-rotors imaginable, increasing its efficiency.
Although Parmigiani Fleurier’s fame has grown exponentially among enthusiasts, they’re still a brand who are fairly under the radar to the world at large. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro Rotor No Date simply expands their range of watches which could be considered stealth wealth, especially with the steel and platinum combination of metals. Although the removal of a date display is a very slight change, the difference it makes is surprisingly significant, and perhaps elevates the watch to a higher sense of luxury on a psychological level. In any case, I’m sure it will prove to be just as popular as the original.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro Rotor No Date Golden Siena pricing and availability
The price of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro Rotor No Date is available now. Price: CHF 23,500
| Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
| Model | Tonda PF Micro Rotor No Date Golden Siena |
| Reference Number | PFC914-1020021-100182 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 45.6mm (LTL) x 7.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel with 950 platinum bezel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Golden siena |
| Lug Width | Integrated |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet |
| Movement | PF703, in-house, micro-rotor automatic |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 23,500 |