MB&F give Stephen McDonnell’s LM Perpetual EVO a baby blue makeover
Borna Bošnjak- MB&F update their rough-and-tumble perpetual calendar with a titanium case and blue dial plate
- Replacing the green dial variant, the new LM Perpetual EVO Blue retains the 80-metre water resistance and FlexRing shock protection system
- Designed by Stephen McDonnell, the perpetual calendar calibre on display uses an innovative way of calculating the dates, winning the Best Calendar Watch GPHG prize in 2016
There’s nothing quite like an MB&F, and the Legacy Machine collection may just be the brand’s most recognisable design. Despite their space-age design, large size and outlandish “dial” features, they Legacy Machines are supposed to hark back to MB&F’s creation of the distant past, had the brand existed then. The LM Perpetual is the crown jewel of the Legacy Machine collection, the culmination of Max Büsser’s “classical” watchmaking ideology, realised by Friend, Stephen McDonnell. Having said that, “rugged” and “perpetual calendar” are terms not often used in unison, and even though the movement of the LM Perpetual had several safeties built in to ensure the most idiot-proof user experience possible, MB&F took it a step further in 2020 with the LM Perpetual EVO in zirconium, and a titanium model in the following year. These combined sportier looks, a new shock-absorbing system, and 80 metres of water resistance for what just could be the most bonkers “sports” watch around. The new MB&F LM Perpetual EVO Blue replaces the green-dialled titanium model, but continues the leisurely intentions the first models harboured.
The LM Perpetual is one of those watches difficult to break down into its core components. Its movement is basically the dial, which largely informs the design of the case that is so crucial to its wearing experience. The 44mm titanium case is a very noticeable 17.5mm in height, but much of that is due to the amazing domed sapphire crystal that follows the curvature of the flying V bridge suspending the balance above the entire movement assembly.
Following the world’s longest balance pinion down from the balance wheel, and especially looking at the LM Perpetual EVO side-on, the wonderful depth of its movement really shines. The symphony of plates, springs and wheels is a sight to behold, somehow never too much to look at, which is surely thanks to the dial’s pleasantly symmetrical layout. The snailed sunburst blue baseplate is the main novelty here, and though it’s a pleasant colour, it merely serves as a nice backdrop, elevating the main event before it.
The curvature of the crystal continues to the downturned lugs with a highly polished top surface that contrast the rest of the brushed case, including the rectangular pushers – a way to distinguish the EVO from the regular LM Perpetual. A more obvious way of telling them apart will be the flush, white rubber strap that’s finished off in a titanium clasp.
Finally – a brief word on the perpetual calendar movement – as it could easily warrant an entire article. Despite its great complexity, it actually makes sense for it to live in a sporty watch. The movement is fitted to the case via MB&F’s FlexRing tech, a circular steel dampener with bi-axial shock protection. To further prevent against damage to the movement components, McDonnell designed a mechanical processor that bases each month on a 28-day cycle, adding any additional days as required, with a feature that disconnects the date corrector pushers from the movement during automatic changeover. Not bad for his first-ever full movement design, hey?
MB&F LM Perpetual EVO Blue pricing and availability
The MB&F LM Perpetual EVO Blue is available now from the M.A.D. Gallery eShop. Price (excl. VAT): US$198,000, CHF 168,000
| Brand | MB&F |
| Model | LM Perpetual EVO Blue |
| Case Dimensions | 44mm (D) x 17.5mm (T) |
| Case Material | Titanium |
| Water Resistance | 80 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Domed sapphire front |
| Dial | Exposed movement, light blue |
| Bracelet | Fitted white rubber strap with titanium buckle |
| Movement | Developed by Stephen McDonnell, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, retrograde leap year, power reserve |
| Availability | Now |
| Price (excl. VAT) | US$198,000 CHF 168,000 |