The Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata takes the innovation of the Carpe Diem to the next level
Matt PickeringYou will most likely know Louis Vuitton as the powerhouse fashion house, with its iconic range of bags, luggage, clothes and accessories. What is less well-known is their push to make seriously high-end watches. Two years ago, the incredibly detailed and crazy Tambour Carpe Diem set the table for what LV are looking to push with these ultra high-end pieces. Enter this year’s follow-up – the Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata.
Right away the Chinese opera mask draws the eye. Taking inspiration from Bian Lian, an ancient Chinese dramatic art that is part of Sichuan opera, the tradition of this “art of changing masks” influences the dial. Just like its Carpe Diem cousin, the mask is able to change its expression (there are five automations).
Driven by the calibre LV 525, totalling 426 components and a power reserve of 100 hours, each of the five different automations lasts a total of 16 seconds with jumping hours and retrograde minutes.
When the latch at 2 o’clock is pushed, the engraved pink-gold dragon’s head rises to reveal the jumping hours inscribed on the forehead of the cloisonné enamel Bian Lian, while its tail indicates the retrograde minutes. The push button of the automaton that depicts a dragon’s head, as well as the winding crown adorned with a champlevé enamel fan, are entirely hand-made. All of this is housed within the 46.88mm Tambour case, made of 18k pink gold while the dial is engraved and enamelled with pink gold and ruby.
The mask’s five expressions include frowning eyebrows, a winking left eye, and the pupil of its right eye retracting to reveal a pointed Monogram flower. Going from joy to sadness through the movement of its chin, the Bian Lian mask expresses a wide range of emotions, mimicking the different masks used during the Opera.
Andrew was on the ground for the launch and we’ll have more coverage on this piece as well as some other new releases so stay tuned for the full recap and video on the site.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata pricing and availability
| Brand | Louis Vuitton |
| Model | Tambour Opera Automata |
| Reference Number | Q1EN2Y |
| Case Dimensions | 46.8mm (D) x 14.42mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k pink gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Enamel and miniature painting by Anita Porchet, engraving by Dick Steenman |
| Strap | Black alligator, 18k pink gold folding buckle |
| Movement | LV525, La Fabrique du Temps, manually wound |
| Power Reserve | 100 hours |
| Functions | Automaton mechanism featuring five animations, jumping hours, retrograde minute hand, power reserve indicator |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$475,000 |