HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style

Borna Bošnjak

Synonymous with high quality and original design, NOMOS serves up an update to one of their most emphatically Bauhaus designs. This pairing of Tangente models showcases the new platinum grey dial colour, which adds welcome variety to the line-up of mostly white and blue offerings thus far.

Tangente – Bauhaus personified

Famously conceived by Walter Gropius in Weimar, the Bauhaus movement has pushed its design principles since its inception in 1919. Seventy-one years later, upon the fall of the Berlin Wall, Roland Schwertner founded NOMOS Glashutte and began the obsession of functional and beautiful watches they’re known for to this day. The Tangente was introduced in 1992 along with the Orion, Ludwig, and Tetra as the four classic NOMOS models. All designed by Susanne Gunther, they still serve as core models in NOMOS’ line-up.

Over the years, the Tangente has diversified with no less than six size options and numerous dial colours and numeral styles. It also featured complications integrated in classic Bauhaus style, from power-reserve indication to the circular date found in the GPHG-winning Tangente Update.

Subtle elegance is the name of the game

While no stranger to funky (I’m looking at you, Ahoi siren colours), NOMOS opts for a more pared-down aesthetic with the platinum grey Tangente. The grey colour is achieved by a galvanizing process of the rhodium-plating, which sounds complicated for achieving such a simple finish. The result, however, is a light grey that is bright but not stark or overbearing like black might be. A fine texture spans the dial, only interrupted by a circularly grained petite seconde (or should I say, kleine sekunde) at 6 o’clock.

NOMOS Glashutte appears below 12 o’clock, matching the clean visuals of the numerals. The only pop of colour on the dial comes in form of the gold neomatik script. The colour is extremely subtle, and at certain angles almost blends into the rest of the dial texture. Tangente typeface numerals appear at the even numbers, with batons replacing the odd numbers, all executed with beautiful precision that’s fitting of the watch. Only the 6 is omitted to avoid it being cut off, which would surely please the typography Gods.

Two case flavours to suit a variety of tastes (and wrists)

NOMOS refers to the Tangente as “the round watch with many right angles”, and the case is the perfect example of that. Lacking a distinct bezel, the slab-sided case features polishing throughout, customary to NOMOS finishing across their model range. Available in 35mm or 38.5mm diameters, the measurements may seem on the small side when considering that this is a modern watch. However, this is a NOMOS after all, and their signature long, slender lugs (43.5mm and 47.5mm for the 35mm and 38.5mm diameters, respectively) make up for the seemingly dainty diameter. With a sharp, 45-degree downturn, they sit in the same plane as the caseback. The 35mm variant comes with a 18mm lug width, whereas the Tangente 39 uses a less common 19mm spacing.

The neomatik platinum grey offers another first, a stainless-steel caseback option for a neomatik-powered watch. This results in a reduction in case height of an already impressively slim watch, coming in at 6.9mm, while leaving more space for potential engraving and a smaller cost. If you’re happy with an extra 0.6mm, a sapphire caseback option is available, letting you gaze upon the automatic calibre DUW 3001.

Paired with a black Horween Shell Cordovan leather strap, the new Tangente wears similarly to other NOMOS models. It’s slim and understated, and those sharply turning lugs are crucial in preventing it from wearing too flat. With a 15.5cm (6.1in) wrist, I can comfortably wear both sizes, and would have a hard time choosing between the two.

Stunning, isn’t she?

Equipped with the NOMOS swing system escapement with its signature heat-blued balance spring, the DUW 3001 offers traditional German decoration throughout. The three-quarter plate synonymous with Glashutte watchmaking is adorned by Glashutte ribbing and is fastened to the baseplate with tempered blue screws. The baseplate itself features perlage on its rhodium-plated surface.

At an impressive 3.2mm in height, the DUW 3001 is the main reason for the overall slimness of the watches it powers. It’s also a relatively large movement at 28.8 mm in diameter, which means it fills out the display caseback in both model sizes. It offers a 43-hour power reserve, which is satisfactory, if somewhat modest, for an automatic watch.

New colourway, grey area?

Put it simply, no. While the new Tangente neomatik platinum gray models are evolutionary rather than revolutionary, they’re rightful members of the family. The Tangente collection is steadily diversifying its colour portfolio, now offering a grey dial on top of several blues, champagnes and silvered whites, all at a competitive price considering the extent of finishing on the in-house movement and escapement.

NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey pricing and availability:

Tangente neomatik platinum gray with stainless steel back (Ref. 188):
2.440EUR / 3.070 USD / 2.240 GBP / 4.140 AUD

Tangente neomatik platinum gray with sapphire crystal glass back (Ref. 189):
2.740 EUR / 3.460 USD / 2.740 GBP / 4.960 AUD

Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray with stainless steel back (Ref. 143):
2.580 EUR / 3.390 USD / 2.580 GBP / 4.690 AUD

Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray with sapphire crystal glass back (Ref. 144):
2.880 EUR / 3.780 USD / 2.880 GBP / 5.240 AUD