Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual CalendarJamie Weiss
- Baume & Mercier celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Riviera with a high complication
- The perpetual calendar’s minimalist design is contrasted by a luxurious salmon-gold dial
- Fittingly, it’s limited to 50 pieces
It’s been a big year for the Baume & Mercier Riviera, with the integrated bracelet luxury sports watch seeing a number of exciting complications join the range to commemorate its 50th anniversary. In March, we saw the Riviera GMT join the range, followed by the Riviera Azur 300M, a dive watch take on the Riviera formula the likes of which hadn’t been seen from the brand since the 1980s. We’ve also seen the Riviera Chronograph get a substantial bi-colour update this year. Globetrotting, aquatic, racy and now classical: those two releases have now been followed up by the new Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual Calendar, which sees Baume’s signature complication (usually reserved for their Clifton models) taken to sporty new heights.
Firstly, it’s worth pointing out that back in the ’80s and even as late as the 2000s, Baume & Mercier produced Rivieras with perpetual and complete calendars, but the vast majority of those were in precious metals – and previous iterations of the Riviera’s design. They lacked the current model’s four bezel screws, and were far less angular and sporty than today’s incarnation of the design. Indeed, the sharpness of the Riviera’s current design (which was introduced in 2021) contrasts intriguingly against the traditional aesthetic of a perpetual calendar, making this new Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual Calendar quite visually appealing.
Part of that appeal is down to its somewhat minimalist take on a perpetual calendar… Which, in turn, contrasts with its luxurious salmon gold dial. Fine vertical sun-brushing, subtly snailed counters, a richly lacquered moonphase disc, rhodium and blued steel highlights… There’s just something about a salmon or champagne dial that oozes class, especially when you combine that with a perpetual calendar layout. A fertile friction between classical and modern defines the Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual Calendar. It’s both restrained and attention-grabbing.
That attention to detail extends to the way the movement – a Baumatic with a Dubois-Depraz module – is finished. Its côtes de Genève-adorned, gold-plated rotor matches the colour of its dial, while perlage and snailing further beautify the movement. Like most Baumatic movements, it boasts a 5-day power reserve, which puts most perpetual calendars to shame. It’s also only 11.8mm thick, which combined with a relatively modest case diameter of 40mm, helps make this perpetual calendar eminently wearable.
The only real sticking point of this watch is the price: it’s five times more expensive than a Riviera Date. That’s a lot of money, even if it’s arguably the pick of the Riviera litter – but compared to most other perpetual calendar, integrated bracelet-toting luxury sports watches from fine Swiss brands (need we say more?), it’s a bit of a steal.
Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual Calendar pricing and availability
The Baume & Mercier Riviera Perpetual Calendar is available now and is a limited edition of 50 pieces. Price: A$31,200.
|Brand||Baume & Mercier|
|Model||Riviera Perpetual Calendar|
|Case Dimensions||40mm (D) x 11.8mm (T)|
|Case Material||Stainless steel|
|Water Resistance||50 metres (5 bar)|
|Dial||Gilded with vertical sun-brushing|
|Strap||Steel bracelet with butterfly clasp|
|Movement||BM13-1975 AC2, in-house, Baumatic with Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module|
|Power Reserve||120 hours|
|Functions||Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, leap-year indicator, moonphase|
|Availability||Available now, limited edition of 50 pieces|