AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more…
Zach Blass- New stainless-steel Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet models mark first-ever debut for AP.
- New Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin takes a Tapisserie break with grained dial treatment.
- New Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42mm marks first to use a full ceramic case and bracelet.
- New Royal Oak 37mm Turquoise stone dial is a fresh take on the Tiffany-dial colour trend.
- 2023 marks the 30th Anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore
Audemars Piguet collectors and fans have the AP Social Club to look forward to at the beginning of each year, where the holy trinity manufacture unleashes an avalanche of new creations across a variety of collections. Well today the AP Social Club 2023 festivities have kicked off. So I will not waste any time, and jump right into a full overview of their day one novelties.
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding
Since the inception of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet, all models have, in some form or another, been cased in precious metal. Initially, upon the model’s debut in 2019, the cases were strictly full precious metal. By 2021, AP began to roll out a modernised two-tone aesthetic – handsomely blending precious metal and ceramic for a more youthful feel. Four years later, stainless steel has finally arrived into the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection. This is great news, as there will now be a lower cost of entry into the model. We have three time and date Selfwinding models to explore with Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50, green, and smoked beige dial configurations. The blue and green variants are cased fully in stainless steel, but the smoked beige, however, has a black ceramic mid case and crown. Regardless of colour, each model debuts a new stamped dial texture that AP has developed with Swiss guilloché craftsman Yann von Kaenel.
Audemars Piguet explains: “In order to stamp the dials, Yann von Kaenel undertook the extremely complex and meticulous task of creating the basic stamps, which have been engraved by hand. The pattern of waves that move outwards from the centre of the dial is decorated with hundreds of tiny holes that play with the light. The result is a myriad of details that make this decoration so rich, while at the same time paying tribute to the craftsmanship of this extremely talented artisan.”
Inside each of the watches is the automatic AP calibre 4302, decorated to their sky-high standards and offering owners a near weekend-proof 70 hours of power reserve.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding / 41mm |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 10.7mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel (15210ST.OO.A343KB.01 / 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01) Stainless steel with black ceramic midcase (15210QT.OO.A064KB.01) |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 (15210ST.OO.A343KB.01) Green (15210ST.OO.A056KB.01) Smoked beige (15210QT.OO.A064KB.01) |
| Crystal | Double curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Dial-matching leather and rubber strap with stainless steel AP pin buckle |
| Movement | Automatic calibre 4302 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | TBA |
| Price | TBA |
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mm
AP has also debuted the same configurations seen in the Selfwinding models above for their Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mm models. Of course, on the trio of chronographs the dial texture is tastefully broken up by three registers. The registers at 9′ and 3′ are clearly distinguished with functionalities tied to the chronograph complication, with white borders to the registers. The small running seconds at 6′ is left without such a border, making it easy to discern from the other pair. Visually some may have preferred uniformity throughout, but I appreciate the clever thinking on AP’s part to make the functionality as crystal clear and legible as possible. I also appreciate the manner in which the flat portion of the inner bezel clearly displays the tachymeter scale, and how the outer minutes track takes up the real estate of its sloped edge. This prevents further interruption to the stamped texture, and also contributes to heightened legibility.
Inside remains AP’s finely decorated automatic calibre 4401, a vertical clutch column-wheel flyback chronograph movement that offers, like the 4302, 70 hours of power reserve. For both the Selfwinding and Selfwinding Chronograph, introducing steel into the mix is a move I definitely applaud. The lower pricing that stainless steel commands will likely draw a broader range of clientele into the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet mix.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mm |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 12.6mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel (26393ST.OO.A343KB.01 / 26393ST.OO.A056KB.01) Stainless steel with black ceramic midcase (26393QT.OO.A064KB.01) |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 (26393ST.OO.A343KB.01) Green (26393ST.OO.A056KB.01) Smoked beige (26393QT.OO.A064KB.01) |
| Crystal | Double curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Dial-matching leather and rubber strap with stainless steel AP pin buckle |
| Movement | Automatic calibre 4401 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph |
| Availability | TBA |
| Price | TBA |
Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin / 39mm
The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 16202 hardly needs any introduction. Last year, for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, the 16202 made its debut. Externally, refinements for the stainless-steel model, such as the return of the Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial, made its aesthetic more in line with the original Royal Oak from 1972. Internally, however, the 16202 marked the departure of the JLC-based calibre 2121 – ushering in a new era with AP’s in-house designed and manufactured calibre 7121. The 18K white-gold model unveiled today, rather than pay tribute to the line’s birth in 1972, pays homage to the platinum reference 14802 created in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak collection with a new (to the modern collection) grained blue dial. I imagine this will be a very hot model that many try to get their hands on, especially since it has been disclosed as a limited edition.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-thin / 39 mm 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02 |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 8.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | White gold |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Dial | Blue grained dial |
| Crystal | Glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | White gold bracelet |
| Movement | Automatic calibre 7121 |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, date |
| Availability | TBA, limited edition |
| Price | TBA |
Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42mm
The steel Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet watches are not the only firsts of the day. This new super stealthy all-black Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42mm is the first within the collection to utilize a case and bracelet entirely made of ceramic (although this claim is not entirely true if you factor in the titanium caseback). The 42mm continues to be the modern means of purchasing an Offshore that is more in line with the original 1993 style. That being said, the full black aesthetic makes it familiar yet very fresh. Those who insist on suiting up with a sizable sports watch will likely gravitate towards this full black model, or simply any Lagerfeldian who adores all-black vibes for that matter.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42 mm 26238CE.OO.1300CE.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 15.3mm (T) |
| Case Material | Black ceramic (titanium caseback) |
| Water Resistance | 100m (screw-down crown) |
| Dial | Black dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern |
| Crystal | Glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Black ceramic bracelet with titanium AP folding clasp |
| Movement | Automatic calibre 4404 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph |
| Availability | TBA |
| Price | TBA |
Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 43mm
If you can stretch an extra millimetre in diameter, and prefer touches of gold to accentuate an otherwise stealthy vibe, the new Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 43mm may pique your interest more. A more modern take on the Offshore framework, with more strongly defined crown guards and a 3′,6′,9′ register layout rather than the original 12′, 9′, 6′ layout of the 42mm, the yellow gold accents really pop against the black hues of the dial, case and bezel.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 43 mm 26420CE.OO.A127CR.01 |
| Case Diameter | 43mm |
| Case Material | Black ceramic case and bezel, push-pieces, and crown. Yellow gold push-piece guards and strap integrating links. Studs in yellow gold and stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100m (screw-down crown) |
| Dial | Black dial with Méga Tapisserie pattern |
| Crystal | Glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Black interchangeable alligator strap with golden stitching, yellow gold pin buckle. Additional black interchangeable rubber strap |
| Movement | Automatic calibre 4401 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph |
| Availability | TBA |
| Price | TBA |
Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37mm
An inevitable sleeper hit of today’s debuts, this irrefutably unisex yellow-gold Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm will attract fans of natural stone dials and those looking to bring a Tiffany-like turquoise dial into their collection. While the market has certainly not been deprived of such a dial shade of late, AP has added something new and refreshing. By using natural turquoise, rather than simply a lacquer of its colour, this Royal Oak does a great job of distinguishing itself from the herd. And, with its 37mm size, and considering the greater prominence of stone dials among vintage references from brands, it commands a classic feel with a colour palette that speaks to today’s times.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37 mm 15550BA.OO. 1356BA.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 8.9mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18K yellow gold |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Dial | Natural turquoise dial |
| Crystal | Glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Yellow gold bracelet with AP folding clasp |
| Movement | Automatic calibre 5900 |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | TBA |
| Price | TBA |
Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mm
While watch snobs may jest and jeer at bejewelled Royal Oaks, there is certainly demand amongst the brand’s devout clientele. This latest entry presents a blue/light blue panda chronograph dial, framed by a bezel with 32 beautiful baguette-cut blue sapphires to match the hue of the central medallion of the Grand Tapisserie dial. Of all the models introduced today, I would bet this white gold chronograph is the most likely to be purchased by comedian and AP mega-collector Kevin Hart. And he won’t be alone in chasing down this model.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph / 41 mm 26240BC.SS.1320BC.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 12.4mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18K white gold, bezel set with 32 baguette-cut blue sapphires |
| Water Resistance | 50m (screw-down crown) |
| Dial | Blue dial with Grand Tapisserie pattern |
| Crystal | Glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | White gold bracelet with AP folding clasp |
| Movement | Automatic calibre 4401 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph |
| Availability | Exclusively in Japan May 2023, globally July 2023 |
| Price | TBA |
Royal Oak Selfwinding Smoked Blue Dials
If you consider diamonds more your friend than sapphires, AP has launched a smoked blue dial trio of white-gold Royal Oaks, set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds in their bezels. I find it interesting that, like Patek Philippe, AP reserves this smoky blue dial for white-gold references. But, regardless of how you interpret that parallel, it is certainly a rock-solid pairing. Audemars Piguet has kept this trio 38mm below, upholding a highly unisex proposition, with two Selfwinding models in 34mm and 37mm and a 38mm Selfwinding Chronograph model should your temptation skew towards heightened complication.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Models | Royal Oak Selfwinding / 34 mm 77451BC.ZZ.1261BC.01 Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37 mm 15551BC.ZZ.1356BC.01 Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph / 38 mm 26715BC.ZZ.1356BC.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 77451BC.ZZ.1261BC.01: 34mm (D) x 8.8mm (T) 15551BC.ZZ.1356BC.01: 37mm (D) x 9.4mm (T) 26715BC.ZZ.1356BC.01: 38mm (D) x 11mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18K white gold, bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds |
| Water Resistance | 50m (screw-down crown) |
| Dial | Smoked blue dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern |
| Crystal | Glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | White gold bracelet with AP folding clasp |
| Movement | 77451BC.ZZ.1261BC.01: Automatic calibre 5800 15551BC.ZZ.1356BC.01: Automatic calibre 5900 26715BC.ZZ.1356BC.01: Automatic calibre 2385 |
| Power Reserve | 77451BC.ZZ.1261BC.01: 50 hours 15551BC.ZZ.1356BC.01: 60 hours 26715BC.ZZ.1356BC.01: 40 hours |
| Functions | 34mm / 37mm: Hours, minutes, seconds, date 38mm: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph |
| Availability | TBA |
| Price | TBA |