Why I fell for two-tone and bought the Rolex Submariner 126613LB
Bruce DuguayAllow me to preface this piece with some full disclosure. I purchased this watch with my own money. It isn’t on loan from anyone and I can assure you the credit-card balance is very real and on my mind every month. For those who are interested in such things, I purchased it new from my local authorised dealer and intend to keep it a very long time.
The comments section might swell with “You bought the wrong one!” but hear me out before assuming everyone should pine after the stainless-steel models only. Over the years I’ve become a big fan of two-tone Rolex watches. I have two vintage Datejusts in the collection that are both two-tone and I just love the signature look that yellow gold adds to the watch.
From a historical perspective, two-tone Rolexes really came into their own during the boom years of the 1980s. Whatever you may think of big hair, yuppies and Duran Duran, the Eighties were definitely a memorable and vibrant time to be alive. The Eighties also held their fair share of uncertainty, with a lingering Cold War, terrorism on the rise, and an abundance of questionable shoulder pads. Fast-forward to 2022 and we still have gobs of uncertainty in the middle of a polarising pandemic, political division, racism and climate change. Our present world needs to add a rebirth of optimism, vibrance, and dare I say it, more colourful watches.
Objectively, the Rolex Submariner 126613LB holds no functional advantage over its all-steel brethren. Then again, the steel models hold no functional advantage over an iPhone (save for depth rating, which is so useful on unending Zoom calls these days). I’m sure we can all agree that most wristwatches in the 21st century now primarily serve luxury purposes, particularly those watches from Rolex. Subjectively, the two-tone Submariner with the blue dial embraces this luxury mission so well by conveying warmth and prestige more effectively than the cold and clinical stainless-steel divers.
Let’s take a quick hiatus from the two-tone discussion and instead talk forty-one. No, not my age, but rather the size, in millimetres, of this new generation of Submariner. I owned a previous generation green Submariner for a few years and “Hulk” not only adequately described the colour combination of the watch, but also the case. Seemingly a direct connection to those previously mentioned ‘80s shoulder pads, the lugs on the last generation Sub were, thankfully, a one-hit wonder. The new Submariner 41 still embraces everything I liked about the solidity of Mr Hulk, while trimming his physique to more refined proportions. The rest of the case size discussion can really be summed up by the statement that it doesn’t feel any bigger on the wrist at all.
Other than the subtle, but necessary renovation of the case proportions it is business as usual for the “Bluesy” Submariner. There is the much-appreciated ceramic bezel, here in a gorgeous marine blue with embedded dive markings in an 18-karat gold bezel. At this point I’d like to remind you that this blue and gold recipe has proven staying power. Unlike the two-tone Explorer I that was unexpectedly unleashed on the world last year, the two-tone Submariner has been around for nearly forty years. Even before that, in the days of the wild,wild west (also known as the 1970s), dealers were known to conjure up custom two-tone Submariners for customers via a more liberal Rolex parts department. While the two-tone Explorer is an answer to a question nobody asked, the two-tone Submariner has evolved into a staple. I would argue this is additionally backed up, particularly in blue, by the nautical-by-nature vibe the watch gives off as well.
One small and important change that aligns the new Submariner 41 two-tone with modern times would be the switch to white text on the dial. It adds a fresh and contemporary feel while boldly contrasting the dark sunburst blue dial background and also matching the bright Chromalite on the hands and indexes. The sunburst blue dial is simply amazing to behold out in natural lighting conditions. Catch the sun just right and the dial explodes with vibrance. In lower lighting, the deep blue is more serious and evocative of dark ocean water.
Slightly less objectively tangible is how this watch makes the wearer feel. I’m going to go ahead and just say what you’re not supposed to say: the two-tone blue Submariner 41 is indulgent. The band of gold running down the center of the links is unmistakable from across the room. Solid gold seems like a great choice for the crown, lending to its triple protected impenetrability and continuing that vault-like feel throughout the overall heft of the thing. You’re constantly aware of the watch on your wrist, however it is still very comfortable as a daily wearer while projecting confidence and power.
Drawbacks are present, but few. The softer gold centre links on the bracelet will definitely accumulate hairline scratches almost immediately, as will the outer surface of the clasp. Also, because of the strong colour combination, this Submariner isn’t as versatile with all clothing combinations. So sorry to disappoint those with tuxedo-clad Bond aspirations, however this isn’t your spy watch. Lastly, because of its “Hey look at me, I’m a Rolex!” persona, it won’t always be comfortable in certain social or travel situations.
As we navigate these ever-uncertain times, I think the two-tone Submariner deserves a second look. It may just be one of the beautiful and indulgent things we need to get back some optimism and joy in our constantly disrupted lives. The 126613LB definitely isn’t appropriate in all settings, so factor in some extra budget to have additional fun finding a more subtle timepiece as well. When you are in your comfort zone though, strap on the Bluesey and it will make you feel like a million bucks. And who doesn’t need that right now?
Rolex Submariner 126613LB pricing and availability
The Rolex Submariner 126613LB is available from Rolex authorised dealers for $20,800 AUD