The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery
Zach Blass- Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold’s faceted case is inspired by the lines of stealth aircraft design
- 45mm in diameter, 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case.
- Flying Tourbillon. Hours and minutes. Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicium.
When delving into the romanticism of traditional high-end watchmaking, we often discuss hand-craftsmanship. But, perhaps an equal and opposing side of the conversation coin is industrial innovation. The Ulysse Nardin brand was born in 1846, with a longstanding reputation for some of the most reliable onboard marine chronometers ever made. Tradition is certainly in their repertoire. Like many brands in a post quartz crisis though, the brand adapted and evolved to translate their previous experiences in watchmaking into a new form that would speak to the modern watch marketplace. And, in this regard Ulysse Nardin was ahead of their time, introducing the first silicon escapement in a wristwatch all the way back in 2001 upon the launch of their first Freak watch. Their industrial innovation has only continued to grow in the decades since, their latest example of in-house machined mastery being the new Ulysses Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold.
While the brand continues to produce more traditionally shaped watches, a large segment of their catalogue has been designed with the intent of exuding high-tech inside and out. Stealth fighters are certainly some of the most cutting-edge engineering we see today, so it should be no surprise that the Blast and its faceted tessellated lugs are meant to evoke the lines of the latest fighter planes. Some of the richest brushing I have ever seen on a case is the result of UN’s laser-etched method, ensuring perfectly straight lines from the top to bottom of a facet. Being 45mm in diameter and 54mm across the wrist, obviously the watch is on the larger side. But it is certainly not beefy, with a thickness of 13mm, and the tessellated lugs do create a slight camber that will better situate the watch on your wrist.
Now obviously I have touted Ulysses Nardin’s industrial capabilities, their innovations in silicon component manufacture and machine finishing. But, it is important to note that the in-house manufacture remains fluent in traditional craftsmanship as well. For example, Ulysse Nardin manufactures enamel dials in house, and, more pertinent to the Blast Tourbillon, the screws holding the marine chronometer-inspired placard on the side of the case denoting the watches number are fired blue.
Within the 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case, the automatic UN-172 movement is exhibited front and back in full view. With the flying tourbillon calibre comprised of only 137 components, the movement is truly openworked – your wrist visible through the sapphire crystal and movement on the other side while worn. Faceted case-matching hour indices surround the outer edge of the dial, each of of which are luminous like the central hours and minutes hand. The bridges, including the signature X-shaped cage, are brushed on their topside and rendered in the brand’s signature blue. Ultimately the star of this 72-hour weekend proof calibre is the flying tourbillon at 6′, which is highly anti-magnetic thanks to its escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring manufactured in silicium.
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold has a sporty yet dapper integrated strap, with an elevated feel befitting of a precious high-comp watch. Like a tuxedo with a velvet lapel, the Blue & Gold’s rubber strap has a velvet centre that feels very luxurious as you rub your finger across it. And, according to Ulysse Nardin, it has been treated to accommodate the 50 metre depth rating of the watch and the surface swimming you may want to partake in while wearing it.
Clearly this is a larger watch, and an expensive watch, but in the context of its construction and complication I would dare say it is competitively priced. So, if you have the wrist and wallet for it, this watch signals an appreciation for cutting-edge watchmaking and distinct design.
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold pricing and availability:
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold is available for purchase now and can be found on the Ulysse Nardin’s website here. Price: US$67,000
| Brand | Ulysse Nardin |
| Model | Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold |
| Case Dimensions | 45mm (D) x 13mm (T) x 54mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold and PVD blue titanium |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Dial | Openworked (blue and rose gold) |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Bracelet/Strap | Blue rubber and velvet strap |
| Movement | In-house automatic UN-172 |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$67,000 |