INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Borna BošnjakThe Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a newcomer duo to the Traditionelle collection. It packages Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking prowess in a more feminine product, positioned to be one of the most complicated members of the family alongside a couple of tourbillon models. Complicated watches have often been reserved for larger sizes, so seeing them with proportions suitable for daintier wrists is a welcome sight.
Mother of pearl dials
Both models feature mother of pearl dials with solid gold indices and hands. Where they differ is the colour, with the white gold Traditionelle featuring a sky blue, while the pink gold sports a matching pink mother of pearl. The gold used for the dauphine hands, indices and applied Maltese cross logo matches the case material for each respective model.
With a simple perpetual calendar layout, these two do well to avoid a cluttered dial, while all the printing is crisp, I especially like the railroad minute track. From a distance, however, the tonally matched printing of the white gold model presents a bit of a legibility challenge. The moonphase features a beautiful gold frame, before stepping down to an opaline sky with a gold-tone moon matched to the case.
A simple case with hidden tricks
Polished throughout, the case design matches the aesthetic of the watch well. It’s minimal and unobtrusive, and lets other elements of the watch do the talking while providing a strong base. The slim bezel matches the elegant lugs in width, both adorned with round cut diamonds, for a total of 76. The crown features another, though with a distinct point, adding some flamboyance to the otherwise minimal case shape. Vacheron Constantin claims that these features were kept thin to maximise dial size for easier legibility.
Though the 36.5mm Traditionelle case is simple, it hides some secrets that make this watch appear even slimmer than its 8.43mm height already suggests. The slab-sided flanks feature a step, as the caseband passes the integrated perpetual calendar pushers and reduces in diameter slightly. This step marks the bottom of the slender, claw-like lugs as well. To ease strap changes, Vacheron Constantin integrates a simple quick-change system. Out of the box, the Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin have colour-matched alligator leather straps with round-cut diamond-set solid gold buckles.
Thin calibre for a thin watch
Consisting of 276 components, the Calibre 1120 QP is visible through the sapphire caseback. Gazing deeper in, the openworked rotor minimises any obstructions and showcases the Côtes de Genève-adorned plates that were manually bevelled. Boasting a power reserve of approximately 40 hours, this 4.05mm thin movement fills out the caseback nicely due to the smaller case proportions.
Closing Thoughts
A smaller, complicated watch from a member of the Holy Trinity that is likely to attract a more diverse group of collectors? Sign me up immediately. To broaden its scope even further, I’d be excited to see a bling-less option with a more traditional dial colour, for an ever more understated feel on-wrist.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin price and availability:
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is available now. Price $129.000 AUD.
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin |
| Ref. Number | 4305T/000G-B948 4305T/000R-B947 |
| Case Dimensions | 36.5mm x 8.43mm |
| Case Material | 18K white gold (ref. 4305T/000G-B948) 18K 5N pink gold (ref. 4305T/000R-B947) |
| Dial | Blue-grey mother of pearl (ref. 4305T/000G-B948) White mother of pearl (ref. 4305T/000R-B947) |
| Crystal | Sapphire – front and back |
| Strap | Blue grey (ref. 4305T/000G-B948) alligator leather with quick release Rosy beige (ref. 4305T/000R-B947) alligator leather with quick release |
| Movement | Calibre 1120 QP perpetual calendar |
| Price | $129,000 AUD |