INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 delivers a strong new vintage-inspired collection

Thor Svaboe

The Aquaracer is many people’s first Good Watch and has become a well-loved collection from TAG Heuer. The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 collection presents a strong vintage-inspired vibe including a razor-sharp limited edition that ticks all of my boxes. The Aquaracer might seem very familiar, but TAG Heuer has successfully transformed the range, with everything from a slimmer, new steel bracelet, to popping dial details and a bolder ceramic bezel design.

Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Re. 844 Limited Edition

Let’s smash the ball across the net first with the halo model in the range, the new case shape and dial design offering a sharper, more visceral take on the familiar Aquaracer look. This has a recognisably sharpened case, the bold lugs underlined by a shapely bevel running along the flanks of the case and down, emphasising the dynamic shape. A solid caseback and angular crown guards hugging the screw-in crown leave you in no doubt of its intentions, as does the 300m depth rating. This limited edition is 43mm in diameter and made from grade 5 titanium, making it deceptively light on its sixties-pure rubber strap, its ventilation holes echoing the angular bezel. And this is where the big changes arrive, the bezel is still recognisably angular, though with a smooth edge and a ceramic black insert. The dial itself is a strong rival to a certain Bond watch, with a delicately structured opaline dial, and cream Super-Luminova on markedly thicker, octagonal polished applied indices. The other major change is the stubby, classic large sword hour hand, and straight sword-shaped minutes. The date window is circular at 6 o’clock, with a charming magnifying cyclops, and my favourite detail? A pop of red in the inner circle 24 hour scale. The 844 pieces of this limited edition will no doubt disappear rather quickly. Price: 4,100 Euros

Aquaracer 300 Calibre 5 Automatic titanium

Yes, for those of you yearning for a large tool watch without the heft of steel, this is the regular production version with the 43mm titanium case. As all other references in the new Professional 300 series, this has the solid Calibre 5 automatic movement, but retains the titanium body of the limited-edition tribute to Ref.844 with a sandblasted finish. Juxtaposed to the tough titanium case and bracelet, the delicate horizontal striations of the Aquaracer dial have a colourful new olive green tone, matched by the ceramic bezel, with pops of orange to lift an already fresh look. Here the new taller rhodium plated indices and sword hands have a crisp white Super-Luminova application ensuring visibility in the depths. Price: 4,000 Euros

Aquaracer 300 Calibre 5 Automatic 43mm

The chunky yet comfortable 43mm case is the size where we have the largest choice in colours, shown here in a polar silver sunray brushed dial, offset by a sharp black ceramic bezel. The new bezel shape bereft of the familiar Aquaracer tabs makes for a purer look, and in this silver, a more contemporary monochrome. The brushed steel case has a comfortable feel on the wrist, yet a sharp bevelling makes the brawny 43mm case elegant in its side profile. The Aquaracer 300 Calibre 5 Automatic 43mm in steel has the same 300 depth rating and calibre 5 movement as its titanium brethren, and is also available in a fresh blue with matching ceramic 60-minute bezel, and a classic monochrome black dial. Price: 2,850 Euro

Aquaracer 300 Calibre 5 Automatic 36mm

With peak social media interest in which watch is for which sex, I’m here only concurring that I love seeing the chunky tool watch from TAG Heuer here with the same Calibre 5 heart, but in a very comfortable 36mm case, in a monochromatic choice of black or white wave patterned dials. I’d be very happy to wear this, knowing the strength is there, yet it will slip under a shirt. With the bold new Aquaracer 300 design, this 36mm piece with its bold flanks and bezel will probably wear more like a 38mm, a svelte version of its strong three-link bracelet comfortable on the wrist, and a rock solid 300m depth rating. Price: 2,650 Euro

Aquaracer 300 Calibre 5 Automatic 36mm with diamond indices

And here’s the party choice. Still the same gloss sheen of ceramic in the blue bezel, the bracelet-elegance turned up a serious notch with polished centre links, and that dial… Here the blue dial has the new arrowhead indices at 12, 3 and 9, the charm of a cyclops at 6, then the dazzle hits you. 8VS+ diamonds are inset into the hour markers, playing a dangerously glitzy game with the deep blue wave pattern engraved dial. A strong look, crisp as a cold winter’s morning under the double AR-treated sapphire crystal, still with a 300m depth rating, this is one strong contender for anyone’s wrist attention. Price: 3,150 Euro