Thor Svaboe

Posts by Thor:

Bamford and Nike 04.12.2020

#Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic

Bamford and Nike? You read that right. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. To me it’s a quietly spoken grail watch in that hotly contested category of integrated bracelet sports watches. Its slim case design and smooth ergonomic bracelet make this an easy collection favourite. So much so that it’s included in a list of Nautilus alternatives here. But now, BAM! FORD! (sorry), the lead purveyor of custom chic in collaboration with some of the biggest players of 2020, has dropped a white-hot ceramic version of the GP classic, the Laureato Ghost. To…

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Longines Legend Diver Bronze 03.12.2020

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field

The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a noteworthy remix. It takes the tried and true, double-crown, super compressor-style case of the original and breathes fresh life into it with the new material. The warmly toned bronze eliminates all of the conservative, vintage-inspired character of its steel sibling, and dramatically increases the level of rustic charm and associated adventure. While still keeping the same 42mm case size and proportions, the design feels thoroughly refreshed in a way that’s hard to ignore.  While the new case material is the main drawcard here, the dial of the Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a…

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Bravur x Wingardh by Bravur Watches 30.11.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene

In Scandinavia, our long dark winters should be a fertile breeding ground for horology. Just as the oppressive gloom sent the Swiss inside to tinker about with watchmaking tools and lathes, you might expect a similar tradition to have developed in these parts – Scandinavian design and Nordic minimalism are, after all, deeply engrained in our regional psyche. Alas, however, there are just a few watchmakers out here. Yet one that has gained traction is the Swedish brand Bravur Watches, whose clean-cut designs set it apart from the barrage of microbrands. Their latest offering, the Bravur x Wingårdh Limited Edition,…

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best pilot watches of 2020 over $10k 30.11.2020

The best pilot watches of 2020 over $10K, feat. Rolex, IWC and Breitling

Some of us love diver’s watches, some skeletonised dress watches. But no matter what you do — driving a truck or stuck behind a desk — maybe nothing is more tempting in watches than the world of aviation, whether it be invoking the adventurous spirit of WWII dogfights, or the memories of Top Gun. You might actually fly a twin-prop Cessna and rely on the infallibility of a top-tier pilot’s watch to back you up in an emergency. Here is a top 5 of the best, from high-tech weapons-grade ceramic to aged black steel with rose gold accents. Chocks away as we…

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H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph 29.11.2020

HANDS-ON: An intense love letter to the ‘retro futurism’ of the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph

Once again, I am confused, seriously confused. When I’d finally sussed out the language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve. Not entirely new, but even after being out for almost a year it still astounds me when I get my hands on it, and here it delights with a new alluring blue dial. The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is different from, well, everything. While legacy brands tweak their tried and tested icons by 1mm, that well-lit safe path is not for Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser. Difference, innovation, and the unlikely term, irony.…

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Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J 29.11.2020

HANDS-ON: Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J, where Sharp Edge meets Milanese

I had a secret wish this autumn, which was the intricate dial structure of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged series filtering into the round case Presage range, and here we are, perfectly paired with a Milanese mesh strap instead of a bracelet. The Seiko Presage series is well known for the Cocktail Time series, glossy dials saturated with colours and the simple elegance of applied indices. The new Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J bring a few welcome design twists, including the ever-evolving dial art of Seiko with a hypnotising pattern. First impressions What strikes you first when trying on these…

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Longines Legend Diver Bronze 27.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes warm metals cool again

The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a pitch-perfect, vintage-style diver. Yet somehow it’s failed to get the attention it deserves due, in part, because understatement is the name of its game. While the Rado Captain Cook turns heads with its lush colourways and the Oris Divers Sixty-Five makes noise with its ever-changing iterations, this bronze diver plays things down and allows its impressive looks to slowly take hold of your psyche. By the time you finally notice it, well, it’s already too late. You’re completely under its spell. First impressions If you are intrigued by the charm of bronze, but…

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26.11.2020

Attention space cowboys: 5 alternatives to the Omega Speedmaster that you probably haven’t considered

The Speedmaster Professional is so well known, so in command of its hallowed place in the history of watchmaking, how could you possibly find an alternative? Given that it is a watch that has actually been to the moon (conspiracy theories about the Mojave Desert aside), any comparisons will have to be approximate at best. This will be an attempt to offer alternatives to the actual space-flown chronograph that can also muster period-perfect and legible chronographs with monochromatic balanced designs. The Speedmaster now represents a huge range, from the Speedmaster Professional to versions in platinum and gold, but all are…

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Seiko Prospex SPB189 and SPB191 25.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The new Shogun is finally here in the form of the Seiko Prospex SPB189 and SPB191

OK, let’s start by remembering the SBDC007, the legendary Seiko Shogun. Now I might be slightly biased because, at one point, I had two of them — after reading reviews saying the watch was so good it’d make you forget your other wrist-worn beauties. Well, believe the hype. The watch was that good and pretty difficult to get your hands on, too. It was a pure JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) model, large but deceptively light in a way that made its 43.5mm size seem smaller on the wrist. Now the new Seiko Prospex SPB189 and SPB191 have arrived and they’re…

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Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea 23.11.2020

The full story behind the Electric Feels of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea, a late-night disco diver for the wrist

Despite my Nordic roots and name, it’s beginning to occur to me that I’m not cool enough for the new Linde Werdelin. The Swiss-Danish watchmaker is well known for their decidedly strong design language. Increasingly, they’re nearly as well known for their stoic refusal to be deterred from banking all on it. Today, it’s the same. They’ll stand their ground with a very special 88-piece limited edition of their first diver, the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea. Immensely strong looking, and dainty like, well, an anvil or a block of arctic granite. Which is exactly why we enthuse about these…

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23.11.2020

8 of the best dive watches released in 2020 over $10K

Divers! We love ’em. I’m wearing a technical diver as I’m writing this — helium escape valve and all. Does it mean I’ve got a diver’s kit packed up, in the boot of my car, ready to go? Not unless you count the defunct photo props I have in a box, dry since 2010. It’s not about the action itself, it’s about knowing you can. We’ll show you some of the best dive watches of 2020 over $10K, safe in the knowledge that you can jump on a plane, charter a speedboat out to an atoll in the Pacific, and jump…

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Rolex and Puma 22.11.2020

#kicktock: The party’s on in this matchup of bright colours from Rolex and Puma x Porsche

While you adjust your sunnies, so as not to be blinded by the yellow and baby blue show, let’s ask some pressing questions. Do we expect these colourways from Puma? Yes. Do we expect atomic daffodil orange and bright Tiffany blue in the most traditional model from Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual? Not exactly. The OP has favoured pops of colour over subdued colour ways in recent times, so no, not at all. And yet here we are a month or so later, colourful Rolex references in blue, orange, pink and coral being viral candy on Instagram, like a fresh breeze,…

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21.11.2020

5 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus that are Nauty By Nature

The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711 might be your grail of grails, or simply the perfect taste of ’70s glamour. There is a reason so many love the porthole-inspired steel perfection, which – in the present day – is flat out unattainable even with cash to spend. So, that pampering AD appointment with $40-60,000 ready to despatch, the complimentary espresso in a gold-rimmed cup, the satin-gloved handover … Not any time soon. Do we have alternatives? We found five. Piaget Polo S The unusual alternative, the unsung hero, a Piaget that isn’t ultra-thin? Yes, the Polo S will confound and…

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H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds 17.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire

Once again they manage to surprise us, from ironic rectangular horology to a hypnotising collaboration with MB&F, to this, where Moser enter the ring for the strongly contested Integrated Steel Sports Watch Bracelet contest. Yes, I tried it on – and did not want to take it off – the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds. OK, the competition in this category is tough, but so is this smooth nugget. The case and bracelet is familiar from the GPHG-winning Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, but this time Moser sticks to their speciality, which is a beguiling time-only fumé dial. Except for…

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15.11.2020

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens

Hypebeast recently dropped the orange-flavoured candy of the Nike Air Force 1 ’07 LV8 Total Orange, a searchlight-bright version of the iconic trainer. As if the zesty orange wasn’t enough, they have teamed up with 3M for the metallic silver highlights, in an unashamed flash of reflections from the tiniest sliver of sunlight. This is the perfect time to crank up the volume on colour and to match orange with yet more orange. Matchy-matchy goes atomic level when paired with the new DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph. No matter if you’re just released into the world from isolation and back to…

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14.11.2020

INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Sa G is a totally new look for Sinn, and we can get around it

This week, in an unusual move from the obsessive tool laboratory of Sinn Spezialuhren (yes, Special Watches — only tools and instruments may apply), comes a glittery fresh take on the social media and forum hive-mind favourite, the 41mm Sinn 103 pilot’s chronograph. In the Sinn 103 Sa G version they have taken what is a very compact and Leica-quality like monochromatic pilot’s watch and added colour. And what that intense sparkly green has done is transform this serious tool into a delicious piece of wrist candy. Metallic green sparkles in the sun and adds a delightful twist to a superb piece…

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best green dial watches of 2020 13.11.2020

Green Is the New Blue. From bottle green, to olive, to khaki, here’s the best green dial watches of 2020, part 2

Yes, let me say it again, we love colours! I’ll shamelessly repeat the same statement from part 1 of this delightfully green story, this one coming to you from a more rough-and-ready angle. This story is still meant as an inspiration to move away from the quiet solitude of matt black dials and embrace a bright new world of everything from matte olive to bright apple green, so let’s take a look at a few more of the best green dial watches of 2020. Mood upswing guaranteed. Seiko Prospex “Captain Willard” SPB153J Yes! They did it. After the beautiful SLA033,…

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium 12.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium, a stone-cold classic … blacked-out, suited up and mission-ready

All the connotations and daydreams that come with the image of a fighter pilot are on show in the intriguing IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium, a functional tool watch that transcends the genre. The cool black finish could only be German, and following a strict code of functionality that, while formal in its monochrome symmetry, exudes a calm feeling of trust. The case is not exactly lithe at 44mm with a close-to 17mm thickness, but the fit on the wrist makes me believe that there is a well-staffed Department of Ergonomics at IWC Schaffhausen. Even without the…

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11.11.2020

How do you like these apples? The best green dial watches of 2020, Part 1, including Longines, IWC and Seiko

YES, we love colours! Why do we drop Instagram comments peppered with flame emojis for a Breitling or Mido rainbow dial, and yet still find ourselves at home with a monochrome dive watch, a monochrome moon watch, a black Casi-Oak and maybe, to get hog wild, a blue dial sports watch? B-o-r-i-n-g. Do what you say and go green, the colour of the year, whether it be olive toughness or bottle green in a svelte gold case. Do not be shy of wrist, and spice up that wardrobe with a pick from this verdant basket of goodness as we look…

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Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink 09.11.2020

The Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink in this video sure is pretty, but is it pink, per se?

Editor’s note: In case you’re wondering, yes! This is the ‘pink’ watch we’ve been hanging to see in the metal, if not just to contrast the real-life shade with the renderings in the press release. And, do we still call it pink? Well, Thor does, as you’ll see from the opening par. But I don’t. This is light beige. Nude. Flesh. Champagne. If it is indeed pink, it’s the palest, duskiest pink I’ve ever seen. It’s no less compelling for the tonal shift, in fact it becomes even more unusual. I don’t know about you, but there’s something about this…

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08.11.2020

Hanhart just quietly released the 417ES, a Pilot’s watch famously worn by McQueen, and it’s a sleeper vintage monster

Does this seem familiar? Yes, the popular bronze Hanhart chronograph recently released by some good friends of ours, seen on a Time+Tide editorial wrist here ,is a bronze 417 chronograph. Now Hanhart has remade the original stainless steel icon – a crisp cut classic military pilot’s chronograph with an earthbound claim to fame. The man among men, daredevil, own stunt-performing suave adventurer Steve McQueen wore one, and not while sipping a latte, I can tell you that much. Motorcycle off road endurance racing – a tough, dirty and bone-shaking job for any watch, including the Hanhart 417ES that we associate…

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Rolex Explorer 1 alternatives 08.11.2020

Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more

I’m not alone in considering the Rolex Explorer one of the best examples of clean, sharp, monochromatic watches out there. But it’s fair to ask – for any of a host of very fair reasons – what are the best Rolex Explorer alternatives if you can’t get a direct path to the Crown? It’s not easy, as we’re looking at one of the cleanest designs out there, with superb comfort to boot. And let’s face it — it’s not a tool watch anymore, it’s good enough to be the most consistently rated ‘one watch’ on the planet. The ultimate functional daily.…

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06.11.2020

The ‘Ragnarok’ by Tidemann Watches might be the first ever haute horlogerie release with its own heavy metal theme song…

What does ‘Ragnarok’ mean? In a word: Armageddon. A dramatic name for one of Nordic origins (me), and a dramatic set of preconceptions for a debut in Nordic Haute Horlogerie via Glashütte. Elbow nudging greetings are exchanged with Tom André Tidemann, and we go for a walk in the crisp air of Scandinavian autumn. The Oslo-based international watch dealer, with a strong portfolio of aces from Cyrus, Czapek Geneve and Parmigiani Fleurier, is clearly excited to be on the brink of a major release. A long personal voyage is culminating in the first watch from Tidemann Luxury Watches, the Ragnarok…

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Louis Vuitton 2020 collection 06.11.2020

The Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying tourbillons, gem-set cases and some very special spinning cubes

Louis Vuitton are best known today for their leather goods, and historically for their travel trunks, but when it comes to watchmaking, most aren’t aware of the work they do. Of course, having such a well-recognised brand globally is a double-edged sword, where Louis Vuitton bags are desired all over the world, but the quality of their other products is less well understood. But don’t let that lull you into thinking the French-founded brand can stitch a seam and nothing else. No, the Louis Vuitton watchmakers are some of the finest in the world, earning their movements the Geneva Seal,…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection 05.11.2020

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection, a sharp new formula for a classic

In a year that sees TAG Heuer peaking with vintage inspiration, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection comes sliding into our feeds as a fresh take on a classic. There is strong inspiration from its ’60s heyday, while a contemporary 42mm case, and a sparkling new engine inside in the Heuer-02 movement, inspires a timeless quality worthy of the strong Carrera heritage, with no need for fauxtina. In these four strong references, we have a distillation of the design codes of the Carrera, which is to many the epitome of a 1960s chronograph. There is an elegant, urban touch…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial 04.11.2020

VIDEO: The new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial is a contemporary take on the classic racing watch

If, like me, you love the svelte lines and sharp details of the vintage Heuer Carrera, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial chronograph (available for purchase here) is a reliable, sleek modern rendition. This is faithful to the lineage, in a contemporary 42mm. The deep blue dial blends formality with the clear motorsports lineage of the range, and is yet another strong contender from La Chaux-de-Fonds. There is no doubt that you are wearing a Carrera, yet this shows just how much a new rich colour brings to the resilient DNA. A sleek, suit-ready take on one of…

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Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poincon de Genève 03.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The dark traveller, Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève is an unabashedly large futuristic dark metropolis under sapphire. I see an angular maze-like horological architecture within an organic patterned cutting-edge composite case. Hypnotised by the 9 o’clock rotating magic of the Flying Tourbillon you’ll notice it being delicately cut into the dark and recognisable structure of the LV logo. The dial – or is it the movement? The dial complexity is such that the LV signature – bold and large within an intriguing depth of openworked haute horlogerie — becomes a natural part of the movement architecture. It is almost…

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Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer 02.11.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer – a COSC-certified classic pilot’s chronograph with a modern edge

Brellum has just released a resolutely modern, yet classic take on a pilot’s chronograph, with the sharpest of details – and shows how much colour and texture transforms the aviator personality of the Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer. This is another strong reference from Brellum that will follow your lead, be it battle-ready flight instrument under a leather jacket sleeve, or as a sharp sports chronograph on a bracelet. From the monochrome bulletproof image of the black dial version, to the delicate silver sunburst dial on a classic steel bracelet bringing a modern formality to the table. If we start…

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TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Anniversary 02.11.2020

IN-DEPTH: The two TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Limited Editions – are they the perfect Two-Watch-One-Brand collection of 2020?

For me, the TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition (available for purchase here) could quite possibly be my favourite from the maison in the last 20 years, and I am not exaggerating. This is a pure Carrera chronograph, a sharp, clear and distilled version of its forefather, the silver monochrome Carrera 2447SD. It approaches the epitome of what a chronograph should be, and sits in the Goldilocks zone of a slender 39mm steel case. We are looking at a supremely comfortable size, though with a visual impact more like 40mm due to its delicate polished bezel and light…

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best GMTs of 2020 01.11.2020

The 5 best GMTs of 2020 over $10K, including Audemars Piguet, Hermès and more

Editor’s note: Arguably, the GMT complication is the most practical in a watch. Everyone has at least one other time zone they want to track, but there aren’t many people using their chronographs to measure F1 lap times. The GMT complication also offers an opportunity to think about the world at large. It reminds you of how big the world is, and presents an opportunity to forget the moment-to-moment stresses that we all face in our lives. If that wasn’t enough, the wristwatch GMT complication has been imagined in innumerable ways over the decades, and are an exciting and creative…

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2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION 30.10.2020

You voted, and this was the most popular $5000 watch collection made up of 2020 releases only

Editor’s note: I don’t want to go all salty Kanye West on Taylor Swift at an awards ceremony here, but imma just pop up here to say that Thor has declared himself the winner in the Fantasy Watch Collection under $5000 edition, EVEN THOUGH I polled more likes on Instagram, and was within one, or even tied up in the commenters’ votes. Also, Beyoncé’s video was indisputably better. *mic drop* (Congratulations, Thor)    Instagram has given me the Oscar for Watch Journalists, the Emmy of Watchgeeks. I won the all-important $5000 round of #fantasywatchcollectionweekend and to quote the song, I’m…

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Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 27.10.2020

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1

For us, there was only one effective way to rate and review the luxurious Seiko Challenger diver, the $9995AUD Seiko Prospex SLA037J1, a re-creation of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 62MAS, launched in 1965. And that was to put it up against a brand nobody baulks at spending that kind of money for a diver: Omega with their Seamaster 300 Co-Axial vintage. Once put in the ring, we let them duke it out, spec for spec. And the verdict? I concluded that some will no doubt be attracted to what might be the very pinnacle of Seiko’s dive range, and an…

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serica 4512 26.10.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic

The WMB came out in 2019 as an unusual and strong contender from the newly formed French microbrand Serica, through an idea from the only American on the team, author of A Man & His Watch, Matt Hranek. Inspired by the iconic Wrist Watch Waterproof of the armed forces, a tough-looking everyday tool watch with optional dial colours and hands, it hit a perfect note within the horological community. Covered in Nick Kenyon’s story here, where Nick went as far as calling it the revival of the good, affordable watch. Well, I think he might have been right, and here…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Collection 26.10.2020

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past

As a watch journalist in 2020, based in Europe under the draconian rule of the pandemic, it’s easy to lose perspective and here is a particular example. Despite my missionary preachings and personal taste, 38-39 millimetres is not the Goldilocks size for everyone. So, with this self-realisation in mind, the  TAG Heuer Carrera Collection is pitch-perfect for most buyers at 42mm. And there is not a shadow of a doubt that these four strong contenders from La Chaux-de-Fonds are likely to hit a sweet spot as modern takes on a stone-cold classic. The four references here are based on the…

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Best Chronographs of 2020 25.10.2020

The 15 best chronographs of 2020 over $10K, a vivid blend of sports, precious metals and remade icons

Editor’s note: If you missed the first part of this series, make sure you check out eleven of our favourite chronographs of 2020 under $10K right here. In this part we are looking at the other side of the coin – the best chronographs of 2020 that ring the till at $10K and over. Here we go. Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph This was one of the 2020 high points for AP, engaging Andrew in our big feature here, and myself as soon as we saw the press photos. It sparked much discussion on the mighty internet; to me it…

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24.10.2020

11 of the best chronographs of 2020 under $10,000 Aussie dollars (and wayyyy under $10,000USD)

There’s no doubt that 2020 has been a strong year for chronograph releases. From vintage reissues to thoroughly modern expressions of the wrist-worn stopwatch, the range of offerings has been diverse and exciting. Let’s take a look at 11 of the best chronographs of 2020 under $10K. TAG Heuer Carrera 160th Silver True to its pure ’60s inspiration, the TAG Heuer Carrera 160th Silver is sharp enough to straddle three categories, and still come up trumps. As a pitch-perfect vintage chronograph it retains the original inspiration, as viewed through a non-reflective Leica lens in perfect filtered daylight. The functionality and…

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Hublot Meca-10 Clock 23.10.2020

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model

In Scandinavia we have a traditional saying: all good things come in threes. And, boy, does this apply to clocks in 2020. First, the Hodinkee table clock that broke the internet and brutally maimed the comments section, then the futuristic T-Rex from Massena LAB, MB&F and L’Epée. And here comes lucky number three – the Hublot Meca-10 Clock. Hublot’s impressive in-house Meca-10 movement was released four years ago, and this year made its debut in the fabulous tonneau-shaped Spirit of Big Bang, to our micro-mechanical marvelling delight. So, as an answer to your question, no, this is not a small…

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Seiko Prospex SNR049J 23.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SNR049J Batman will leave you black and blue

Looks can be deceiving, and the Seiko Prospex SNR049J proves the point in idiosyncratic style, once again firmly setting the bar for how we perceive a tool watch. This is a deliciously blue faced, limited reference in the LX series, Seiko’s pinnacle of sports and diver’s watches. In 2020 this is a brash and unapologetically large watch, but even at 44.8mm, Seiko are the masters of watch ergonomics, and close to unbeatable for chunky tool watch comfort. Don’t be surprised if this feels like a 41-42mm watch on the wrist, as the familiar muscular sides curve downwards at the lugs,…

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Bulgari Bulgari aluminium 22.10.2020

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh

The strangest feeling is to be had when you first put on the Bulgari Aluminium time-only — if you actually get it on in the first place. Holding it makes you do a double take and shift it from left to right hand as if to check your own function as a makeshift human set of scales. Yes, this is metal, but we’re not used to light, cool, matt aluminium in a watch case. Then there is a chunky rubber bracelet. Yes, a linked rubber bracelet, in itself a novel concept that surprises in equal amounts. My entire image of Bulgari…

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Massena LAB Uni-Racer 21.10.2020

INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection

From the secret lab of William Massena we have come to expect the unexpected. The LAB has a short but exciting history of sharp collaborations with a disruptive edge, exhibiting a wide scope of taste and style. This exciting new model is a case in point, with the last public project being a brilliant vintage bronze version of the T-Rex by MB&F, which was as much art as a static timepiece. This time, Massena has gone into the rich archives of sports chronographs for inspiration to give us the fresh, yet familiar, Massena LAB Uni-Racer. The inspirational basket of vintage…

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Yema Superman Bronze collection 15.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze

The Yema Superman is a strong vintage diver, with two selling points that should be a wake-up call for other brands, starting with an obvious and rather rhetorical question: When you go out to buy a pair of jeans with your slimmer and shorter mate (speaking for myself here), do you buy the exact same size? If the answer happens to be no, then look at the Superman range from Yema, specifically the all-new Yema Superman Bronze collection. Yema is a small, proudly French brand with a strong following, yet they have understood the basics … we have different wrists.…

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MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO 13.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is a new haute horlogerie player in the sports watch market

The complexity is tangible, the feeling is tingly yet disturbing. I’m seeing the unreal sight of the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, or any MB&F for that matter – on a moulded soft rubber strap in an image surely done with a green screen CGI. I mean, mountain biking or hiking with a piece of highly strung horological art worth close to $300,000 AUD on your wrist, surely not. And the heat that seeps from that fiery orange within the movement: if I was an A.I. this would mean a sensory overload and system crash; intriguing seems a proper understatement.…

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12.10.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The FullGear Pioneer – a customisable pilot watch featuring tritium tubes, launching this week

We love classic pilot watches. Tough, no-nonsense brushed steel case tools that are a faithful reminder of the aviation glory days of yesteryear. What we want is a simple, clear dial and legibility on point, and monochromatic efficiency. But what if we had all this as a base, for a fully customisable watch not always wanting to be the demure quiet tool? Let’s introduce the FullGear Pioneer — it is all of the above and more, with a bright twist. FullGear is launching the Pioneer pilot’s watch on Kickstarter today, on October 12, designed by a team of veterans from the…

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Albany Watches AMA Diver 12.10.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver – a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag

Divers, the tough tool watches that become our best buddies on adventures, strapped on with a wetsuit as backup to a dive computer. All this sounds wonderful, though for those of you in lockdown they have an even more important task, which is to remind us of what will come, as well as adventures spent; keeping our spirits up. The Albany Watches AMA Diver is launching this week on Kickstarter, with the Albany name paying tribute to the WA city where the founder’s father grew up. This is a classic ’60s skindiver with an inspiration as beautiful as it is…

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Swatch x 007 ²Q 12.10.2020

INTRODUCING: No Time To Die might be delayed, but the new Swatch x 007 ²Q is available right now

After the success of the previous Swatch x 007 collaboration, another tough and colourful watch is back, now exclusively in time for the release of No Time To Die. In his infinite wisdom, Q has tinkered away in his basement and come up with the Swatch x 007 ²Q. Here we have a brash and colourful openworked sports watch in the SKIN Irony series, with a tough steel body, intensely Swatch, with a few tricks up its sleeve. In a world turned upside down, for 2020 Swatch and Q has done the same to the Swatch x 007 ²Q, with…

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dornbluth 11.10.2020

5 German watch brands you may not have heard of, but will desire – 2020 edition

Germany is solidifying its position as among the very best go-to alternatives to Switzerland for wrist-worn marvels. While we all know that the Glashütte-based A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, Nomos and Sinn produce top-notch alternatives to the Neuchâtel valley, here is an ode to the lesser-known maisons. These are fiercely independent brands showing their 2020 models, many of which you will not find even in our comprehensive Time+Tide archives. We will endeavour to broaden your Germanic horizon with five German independent watches, from traditional Haute Horlogerie, through Bauhaus and classic Flieger style. Kudoke The Kudoke 2 Nocturne Stefan Kudoke…

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11.10.2020

Would you pay $13,000USD for a Speedy that’s spent 188 days in space? Because that’s the current online bid…

Now, we all have an image of the Speedmaster Professional, the icon, the Tool of Tool watches, the Moon Watch. A beautiful 42mm piece of history, with its delicate white lumed baton hands pointing to a still timeless sixties minute track, and delicate slightly recessed sub chronograph registers on a plain, matt monochromatic dial. Twisted lyre lugs the stuff of a thousand replicas. But let’s be one hundred per cent honest with ourselves. This is not a watch per se, this is not an object to tell the time or make sure you catch the bus, but dreams made metal.…

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Moser Swiss Alp Watch 09.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The Moser Swiss Alp Watch is less a clever gimmick than it is just great

The Moser Swiss Alp Watch is a thoroughly intriguing proposal, in what seems a familiar smooth shape of a rectangular pebble with re-imagined wire lugs. Your non-horologically biased mates, family and colleagues will no doubt pose the question as to why this has a crown and a hand-sewn alligator strap, only to be silenced by the mesmerising blue depth of the fumé dial. A dial with depth and detail that doesn’t distort or disappear when seen at an angle … what is this witchcraft? Yes, this was designed as a statement piece. You will understand the deeper meaning without mentioning…

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Seiko Astron SSH073J 08.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition offers dressy darkness in ceramic and titanium

Seiko’s 2020 arsenal of new watches has yet another devastatingly attractive addition in the Seiko Astron SSH073J. In parallel with the mechanical in-house divers and sports watches we can’t seem to get enough of, we find the ultra-precise Astron series, here shown in the dressy darkness of titanium and ceramic. I apologise in advance for more Star Wars references, but they are too tempting. With this on Mr Vader’s wrist, the Death Star would always be on time, as the Astron accuracy is legendary. We sing the praises of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and Quartz models with their beguiling mix…

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Minase Divido 05.10.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Minase Divido

A round watch case like few others, sharp angles, quirky Japanese design and a Swiss movement? Surely that can grab your attention, even in these weeks of big stories from Switzerland. At a time when just as many gravitate towards the well known, we have the ones that turn towards another path, a path less crowded, where you will find small manufacturers like Minase. In the Akita province of northern Japan, Minase, more atelier than maison, produce around 500 watches a year – of which the Divido, unusually, is the only round watch, rising to fame a while back on…

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Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher 04.10.2020

HANDS-ON: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher is like a sandwich with every filling possible, and I’m hungry

I am utterly perplexed by the Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher. This is a watch, released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Pontos range, that encompasses some of my favourite features across the ages of horology, amalgamated into one. Stealthy black, chunky yet not too large, both contemporary and vintage, with a chronograph dégradé dial. Oh, and why not throw in an in-house chronograph movement and a monopusher for the hell of it. Ordering one sandwich with all your sweet and savoury favourites would end in disaster, yet the Pontos seems to pull it off. I’m hungry for it. With…

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Rolex Oysterflex 04.10.2020

The Oysterflex Bible – every Rolex Oysterflex reference, named and rated

We all know only too well how a Rolex Oyster or Jubilee bracelet embraces the wrist unlike any other assembly of steel parts available. It’s a watch bracelet with the feel of silk. Lesser common an experience is the sampling of an Oysterflex bracelet, Rolex’s version of a rubber strap. At the time it was released, the brand stridently avoided that description, by the way. We must mention neither the war, nor rubber. Back then, it seemed like typical watch industry doublespeak – where every commoner material is granted a loftier title. That is, until it was in the hand;…

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Seiko SRPE39K 04.10.2020

INTRODUCING: These incredible photos of the Seiko SRPE39K Save The Ocean say it all

Editor’s note: If a picture tells a thousand words, then we should just drop these shots right here and dispense with the written review. Jason Reekie, our main man, has absolutely nailed these, and honoured some exceptionally imaginative, detail-oriented and captivating dial work. Seiko’s ascension, with a little help from their friends at Grand Seiko one can’t help but think, continues apace.  In a blessed year for Seiko, they return with yet another sharp take in the form of the Seiko SRPE39K Save The Ocean Special Edition, a new “King Turtle” with a blue degradè dial and stingray motif. Every…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo steel 03.10.2020

Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out….

While I have my loupe on and shirtsleeves turned up, consider this article an appointment with a hypnotist. Because, in my opinion, there is a pressing need to reset the preconceptions of the ‘Holy Trinity’, and to call out the desire created by inaccessibility for what it really is: which is FOMO. Not being able to have things. How it makes us want to have things. But the three-watch comparison we have created here is not a setup with a predetermined outcome. Perhaps, after all, we should leave existing structures of worship intact. Perhaps the ‘Trinity’ is timeless? Untouchable? The…

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30.09.2020

5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta

This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight re-edition from Bulgari. The choices are diverse, if not easy to make. A fool might suggest to double your budget and take two home, but play your cards right and your budget might stretch further than you think. Grand Seiko SBGP005   Yes, the first…

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Grand Seiko SBGW264 28.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial

I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even — don’t tell anyone — with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The Grand Seiko SBGW264 is another case (and dial) in point, and for me just another sign that the dress watch is alive and well, and speaks the Japanese language. The exquisite case shape in the Grand Seiko Elegance line has a language all of its…

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28.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic

A dark brooding presence on the wrist is causing infatuation today, with a vast power reserve and the unexpected lightness of high-tech ceramic. The new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic is a futuristic tonneau-shaped timepiece that surprises and assures you in equal measure, with its lightweight tank-like solidity and industrial fascination. A winning case for ceramics This is Hublot’s debut of their cutting-edge Meca-10 movement in the sharp contemporary shape of the Spirit of Big Bang series, with this being the darkest, almost menacing, version, Black Magic. The tonneau shape is not svelte at 45mm, with a…

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27.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year

In a year of great horological heights, Glashütte Original is once again pushing for the summit with the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 limited edition. This comes after a succession of eye-catching 2020 releases, featuring some of the best dials in the business, and fascinating top tier versions of their vintage perfect diver SeaQ, which made me desire a diamond set bezel for the first time. With the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon,  Glashütte Original seem to have toned it down to the quiet elegance of traditional German haute horlogerie, but this time the movement is the star. Turn the watch around with…

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24.09.2020

The Mondaine Official Swiss Railways stop2go BackLight has a couple of party tricks ready for your sleeve, and it’s in our shop now

The Mondaine Official Swiss Railways stop2go BackLight is indisputable proof that Swiss precision timekeeping is more than mere wristwatches. At first glance this might seem like a great example of mid-century modern, or even Bauhaus-inspired design minimalism, in a utilitarian case. You will only understand fully if you’ve been to one of the pristine Swiss railway stations and glanced up at the eerily exact station clock before your train to Genève arrives four seconds early, never late, and leaves on the second. This very same crisp white face is present on each model from Mondaine, intensely legible in monochrome –…

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23.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in its first iteration, ref 5524G-001 definitely caught our attention when it was released. We called it the most confusing watch of Baselworld 2015. Patek Philippe had anticipated the sceptical reaction, and the opening line of their press release about the watch sought to quickly legitimise it – referring to the two-hour angle pilot watches from the ’30s whose style codes it extends. But, despite the fact that PP holds its turnover cards close to its chest, word since then is that it has sold better than expected with its sharp and unexpected style. Journalists…

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SeikoProspex SLA042 23.09.2020

GPHG 2020 – 5 disruptive nominees that should be winners in a chaotic and disrupted year

As the inaugural peak of Haute Horlogerie appreciation is upon us, a renewed GPHG convenes. This time with an expanded panel of judges, a semi-online voting process, and, refreshingly, with a truly broad range of nominees. There is a sense that perhaps disruption is the plat du jour. So, let the GPHG roll on with the words of Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin fresh in our minds: “It’s time now for revenge, it’s time for coming back, it’s time for reassuring watch lovers that the industry is back, that the watch industry will excite them, that the watch industry has never…

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22.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto is everything that’s great about the brand, in a watch

Hublot’s Big Bang series this autumn is like an unstoppable tank, with this last month being marked by strong new editions of Big Bang and the Spirit of Big Bang. But no watch has quite captured all that the brand has become quite like this urban warrior, with an almost imperious level of quality and finishing. The Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto is dressed to kill in full camouflage, and their second collaborative project this year with the enigmatic Japanese designer, this time with only 200 watches available in Hublot boutiques. Hublot dials up the toughness a considerable notch…

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Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP 20.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP

Two brands, both brash, bold, loud and cutting edge. Well, OK, not loud in the same sense as a V12 engine, but Hublot is a perfect fit as the watchmaking partner to Ferrari. This time, it is a celebration of Ferrari’s 1000th Grand Prix, a milestone in Formula One’s 70th anniversary year and, yes, it took place last weekend at the Mugello circuit in Italy. The bright red steeds of Ferrari are interlinked with F1 like no other brand in history, and after a few changes in their suppliers of racing engines for the wrist, they found the perfect match…

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Seiko Alpinist SPB155J 19.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The brand new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J

The Seiko Alpinist series is a beloved staple of enthusiasts on watch forums and Instagram, with its comfortable shape, size and particular Japanese take on a sophisticated field watch with a rich history. Earlier this year, changes came to the lineup, with the Alpinist logo no longer present, and the Prospex X above the historical “Automatic” vintage font logo at 6. I observed the discussions that ensued, and was left with the positives of the excellent 6R35 movement easily tipping the scales on the plus side. This time the new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J are…

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18.09.2020

Get ready, one more sleep till you can order the ultimate unisex summer watch, the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro U1-MY2

Unimatic’s tough Italian exterior gets the touch of Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro in a marriage of crisp white Cerakote™ and extreme minimalism. Unimatic, based in Milan, has a strong reputation for their no-nonsense tough 40mm tool watches, with their bold cases and stubby-perfect 49mm lug-to-lug length. With the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro they have managed to bridge the divide between horology and Hypebeast. This is their second collaborative project this year, with the previous project being the instantly sold out Unimatic x Massena Lab neo-vintage version of this same U1. This time they’re back with a focus on purity, both…

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Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph 13.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, a pinnacle of complexity within the range

Close to being at a loss for words … almost thankful that I haven’t got this on my wrist for a hands-on review as I would not leave the house. Email to Director: Self-imposed lockdown initiated, reason — the new Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph needs a full 10 days of attention, all Wi-Fi and mobile communication hereby disconnected. Let’s start with the obvious. The CODE 11.59 range has been expanded this year with new references featuring more expressive colours. From the first image alone, it is clear that this is something completely different again. The Tourbillon Chronograph…

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11.09.2020

What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold?

Now that Rolex has released watches and ended that dreadful rumour that they were sitting 2020 out, the important work begins. Nicknaming them. The one that has perhaps caused the most contention, is this one, the Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold.   We’re going to tell you everything you need to know about it below. But first, some data. We asked Instagram what its nickname should be. Our favourites are as follows: Sonic. BMW (or Beemer). Blueberry. Sega. Add to these a decidedly not-catchy suggestion of “I wish the stupid nickname game would stop and availability happens.” The winner,…

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Grand Seiko SBGC238 07.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant

I am beginning to run out of synonyms for the scope of Grand Seiko for 2020, with yet another impressive reference being pulled out of what seems to be a very deep hat. This time we are looking at the Grand Seiko SBGC238, a limited edition of the largest most angular case possibly ever from the brand. It is a shape that echoes strength in a futuristic form that, in spite of its angular weapons-grade appearance, sits very comfortable on the wrist, once again setting the bar for large-case ergonomics.  The case Yes, we are looking at a large chunk…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold 06.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The menthol-fresh Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold

In a week marked by the one-millimetre revolution, Audemars Piguet has quietly tip-toed into the room and released a frosty breeze of a limited Royal Oak to everyone’s surprise. As if by magic, a new reference of the perfectly sized 39mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold appeared on their website.  This is no revolution, but rather a superb dial colour variation suiting the white gold to a tee. I’m thinking this is a sharp move by AP, though with a short 100-piece production run they might be gone rather quickly, as this combination is a…

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sub-40mm Technical Divers 05.09.2020

5 heavy-duty dive watches from a range of price points that don’t monster the wrist – all sub-40mm

Many of us are re-evaluating our preferred size of watches, as the trend is ever-increasing (or should that be shrinking?) towards 36-40mm watches for men, with vintage vibes. In my case, it’s a matter of practicality. My wrist is on the slender side and I wear a shirt most days, so a 45mm wrist chunk is not going to work. The increasing range of options is a godsend for many of us.  But have diminishing sizes hit all categories? Let’s say we’re looking for a tough, no-nonsense modern tool watch that can take a beating. In other words, a diver.…

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Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series 01.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series is yet another competitively priced collection for dial fetishists

Seiko Presage is the sharp alternative between everyday Seiko and the mythical big brother Grand Seiko, with a price range coinciding with the Prospex range and an emphasis on dressy references with a classic Japanese twist. During the last couple of years, Presage has mainly been known for their very popular Cocktail Time series, with a typical Seiko focus on superb value for money – especially in their choice of colourful and elaborate dials. As with their ever-expanding Prospex series, we are now seeing a proper step up in style with the new Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series.  In this…

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best dials of 2020 31.08.2020

The best dials of 2020 – Part 2

Editor’s note: If you missed Part 1, make sure you check it out as it includes the likes of Moser, Chopard and Greubel Forsey. In the best dials of 2020 Part 2 we keep the eye-catching dials rolling, from affordable microbrands all the way to the most haute of horology. Enjoy!  anOrdain Model 2 Time-consuming vitreous enamel with a high breakage quota, and a Scottish microbrand producing time-consuming small batches of 36mm watches. This quirky combination must have been a hard sales pitch to secure funding from the bank managers, but had they seen the end result, the arguments would…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic 30.08.2020

INTRODUCING: The breathtaking and brutally slim Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic

Let’s be honest, 2020 is not just a year of disastrous market decline, job losses and lockdowns. This year has also been one of rapid change and lateral thinking within the horological community. There have also been many heartening examples of the show going on, despite the uncertain backdrop. And with another stunning timepiece in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, it’s proof again that there’s no stopping Jean-Christophe Babin and Bulgari, as we witness yet another record-breaking complication for the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo. What is a certainty is that the Finissimo line was launched only six years…

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Girard-Perregaux Infinity 42 27.08.2020

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their dark side at Geneva Watch Days

Girard-Perregaux is not holding back at the Geneva Watch Days, launching their complete but limited Infinity Editions, a tempting collection set around the dark opulent theme of gold, polished black onyx and titanium. At first, it seems an incongruous marriage of past and future: the rarely seen deep gloss black of onyx associated with jewellery and Rolex dials of the ’70s, paired with what is still considered, in our traditional halls of Haute Horlogerie, futuristic titanium. Unusually and fascinatingly, Girard-Perregaux has darkened both limited editions of existing references and debuts their Free Bridge model. Join us as we visit the…

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best Beads-of-Rice bracelets 27.08.2020

3 of the best beads-of-rice bracelets on the market and the differences between them

The beads-of-rice bracelet, a bracelet design only a few years ago lost to the winds of time — a memory of stretched-out and rattly bracelets on a well-worn 35mm vintage gents watch. Or the mythical Gay Frères kind, one of the most sought-after. I’m embarrassed to admit that I once threw one in the trash, short of knowledge. As with many details of horological nature, the BOR bracelet has again come full circle, but tighter of tolerance, with a solid feel and on the cusp of becoming ubiquitous. If your memory is of the charmingly loose and jangly feeling of your…

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Best Dials of 2020 26.08.2020

The Best Dials of 2020 – Part 1

Me, I’m a dial man. Don’t get me wrong, I love a sharp bevelled case and intricate movements, but what gets me first is the face of the watch. Here we’ll look at 10 examples – over two stories, the second of which to follow in the coming days – of dial faces that could launch a thousand watch enthusiasts. Into bliss. From minimalist craftsmanship in precious metals to microbrand vitreous enamel, these are the best of the best. There’s no need to underline the fact that 2020 has been a dramatic year, with a sharp downturn for the Swiss…

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Boldr Venture 24.08.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture might be the best value titanium watch on the market

Yes, it’s a very bold opening line. In fact, this is no boldr (sorry!) than a simple statement of the facts, should you sum up the parts, starting with a titanium watch with 200m water resistance for under $300 USD including shipping. Boldr Supply Co. is an established microbrand with five watch lines, and a solid community following of their watches and accessories for the self-categorised Urban Explorer. The two questions you’re likely to ask yourself: How is it possible to have a stock model in titanium with a low might-never-happen-Kickstarter project price? Is the compact field watch that is…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato 23.08.2020

IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast

If you were to pick Girard-Perregaux’s Jekyll & Hyde, this would be the pair of watches that fit the bill; the Laureato 38mm and the Laureato Absolute Chronograph. Girard-Perregaux is a distinguished but quiet presence on the horological scene, and have a history whose shadow and depth extends well beyond the brand’s current day reputation. And when we are talking about the modern era and the category du jour: steel sports watch with integrated bracelets, GP are well and truly in the game with the Laureato range, reissued in 2017, based on the 1975 hit. This, however, is a tale…

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best Scandinavian watches 21.08.2020

The Nordic way – 5 of the best Scandinavian watch brands, and the models they are known for

The Arctic is a tough environment with long dark winters, where the isolation breeds creativity and a certain strict code of design, whether they be the toughest tool watches or classic dress pieces in a Scandinavian pared-down aesthetic. Regardless of the style of watch, there is a design language that defines the Nordic region. Here are five of the best Scandinavian watch brands out there, and some of their best known models.  5 of the best Scandinavian watch brands Linde Werdelin Oktopus MoonLite – a tough tool with an astronomic twist The masters of Nordic tools, Linde Werdelin, originate from…

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Seiko SLA037 Omega Seamaster 300 review 15.08.2020

IN-DEPTH: A top-of-the line Seiko diver, SLA037 Vs. the lesser-seen Omega Seamaster 300, same price, different experience?

Editor’s note: Here we continue a new style of review that pits two similarly specced watches against each other, in an arena that is less touched up, and more true to the naked eye than our usual images. Last week we had a super-popular Seiko and the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. While both alike in specs, they were at very different price points. So, this time we thought we’d pit two dive watches with similar specs and aesthetics – from the golden mid-century era – and almost an identical price, against each other. There is extra sass here, because one is proof…

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Glashütte Original SeaQ diamonds 11.08.2020

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original SeaQ – a 39.5mm dive watch with a diamond bezel? Sorry, what?

Watching Andrew in the Virtual Baselworld 2020 recap I had a deep understanding of the distracted description of the glacial blue degradè dial of the Sixties pieces from Glashütte Original. Today I’m quietly drawn to something that is so far removed from my vintage diver tool-tastes that I am genuinely surprised. Glashütte Original is the independent child in the Swatch Group family, left to their own devices in the German mountains, with the result being a superb range of classic Germanic horology infused with a strong identity and in-house production. Their fascinating mix of strictly traditional watchmaking, in their Senator series,…

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Sinn U50 SDR 09.08.2020

HANDS-ON: The Sinn U50 SDR is submarine tough, but mighty slim and perfectly sized at 40mm

A neutron star is tiny, at an average 20km in diameter, but incredibly dense. Its mass is equivalent to 1.5 times our Sun – which has room for more than a million Earths. How does this set the backdrop to a review of the fêted Sinn U50 SDR, the first-ever Sinn with a waiting list?  Physics and astronomy is an unusual starting point for a watch review, but stay with me…! Thanks to the generous engineers at Sinn Spezialuhren in Frankfurt, I have had the new Sinn U50 diver comfortably on my wrist for a couple of weeks, and the…

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Tudor Black Bay 58 Vs. Seiko Prospex SPB147 08.08.2020

IN DEPTH: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Vs. Seiko Prospex SPB147J – the battle of gilty pleasures

If a watch has become synonymous with the One Watch Collection, a quintessential vintage diver, or the perfect Sub reissue Rolex never released, it’s the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. In fact, care of the recent navy blue update, it’s currently as viral as the AD waiting lists are long. Personally, I love vintage tool watches, and especially the quiet bling that a warm touch of gold brings to the party. But can we find alternatives in the same perfect 38-40mm size from another big box brand? Yes, we can — from Seiko, well known for their brilliant vintage reissues, but…

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Rolex GMT-Master 1675 02.08.2020

LONG READ: I did not want to like the vintage Rolex Pepsi GMT-Master ref. 1675. It had other plans.

I have had enough of vintage Rolex. Really, enough. Hyped out. Even in the darkest days of lockdown I would skip Hodinkee’s Talking Watches episodes focusing on GMT-Master references and vintage Rolex collections … bring me some carbon fibre! Why, then, do I find myself standing here outside the house of the owner of a 1969 Rolex GMT-Master 1675 feeling sick and wanting to leave? Caressing the scratched lug for the last time, trying to read the surface like braille, encoding the history within. I did not want to hand it back. A weekend with the iconic Rolex “Pepsi” 1675 I’m…

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MB&F X L'EPÉE X MASSENA LAB 31.07.2020

INTRODUCING: MB&F x L’Epée x Massena LAB

How can a table clock be desirable? My thought process is well on the way to becoming coherent, meaning Sellable To The Wife. She has a background as a buyer in the oil business, so I can’t tell her that the need for a USD$27,000 non-wearable time piece is driven by desire.  The title of my presentation (with PowerPoint?): How to justify the purchase of a USD$27,000 table clock with a T-Rex theme. Well, actually, just the skeletonised legs and one eye, but beautifully made … It will be made more difficult by her not knowing what Max Büsser and…

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Garbage Watch 25.07.2020

INTRODUCING: The Garbage Watch is a piece of trash and they know it

Not the zingiest name I’ve come across, I must admit. Is this a statement, an actual watch – or something stolen by an Area 51 engineer from an alien craft?  It might be all of the above and, boy, it’s brash and edgy (pun intended). Consider this an ongoing story as much as it is a watch. While everyone is staring goggle-eyed at the bold architectural structure with its bombardment of colours and textures, I will endeavour to explain the mission of this Garbage Watch. Vollebak is at the cutting edge of high-tech fashion, and this is their first watch.…

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Linde Werdelin 3 Timer GMT blue dial 10.07.2020

IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55

No fauxtina, no sub 40mm case and seemingly hewn out of a three ton block of arctic granite … I am blown away by how something so big can be so refreshing. A massive chunk of sandblasted blue freshness. You can tell by my name that I might have a Nordic bias here – but my personal preference is small, vintage, with a hint of bling. Yes, everything the Linde Werdelin range is not. Still, I feel myself drawn to this big chunk of a watch, seemingly made for my demigod namesake and not for my puny wrists. The lineage…

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