HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic

Fergus Nash

For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for  craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In 2021, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 103467 offers perhaps the purest and most endearing version of the watch, with improved practicality towards its sports watch ideals and a dial that trades broken records for sheer visual delight.

The dial

The 103467 reference doesn’t try to be anything other than beautiful, with a radiant sunburst blue background in a refreshingly light shade. The balance is truly perfected from the execution of the subdials, as their silver burst finish matches the sparkling steel case as well as the hands and indices, and the blue printed markings match the blued subdial hands. There’s no date display to introduce clutter, but that’s not to say the dial isn’t busy. The complexity that the chronograph brings doesn’t serve to disturb the watch though, instead simply reinforcing the idea that this is the ultimate in luxury sports watches.

The octagonal dial is obviously a hallmark of the Bulgari Octo range, as is the large elongated Arabic numeral at 12 o’clock. Although the layout may seem like a standard triple-register chronograph at the first glance, the subdial at 3 o’clock is actually a 24-hour display with GMT functionality, bringing yet another aspect of user functionality.

The case

If you were to ask me to define a modern classic, I’d say to look no further than the case design of a Bulgari Octo Finissimo. Originally inspired by iconic highlights of ancient Roman architecture, the heavily stepped and chamfered case has an industrial evocation that’s also reminiscent of art deco design like the Chrysler Building. Not only is the shape itself appealing, with the 43mm flat expanse wearing surprisingly well due to short and stubby lugs, but the finishing is also an incredibly expressive aspect. My favourite feature is the radial brushing on the surface of the bezel, adding an almost sparkly element to the watch. The other flat faces are brushed vertically, with the sloping bevelled edges being high-polished for mesmerising light-play.

Speaking of light-play, the bracelet needs to be lauded too, with the thin links echoing the case design and providing comfort by draping over the wrist. It’s a strange sensation at first if you’re not used to bracelets that are almost as wide as the watch, however the gentle taper does help and it becomes a somewhat reassuring feeling after a while. As visually impressive as this watch’s construction is, it’s also important to remember that it’s more than capable of sporty activities, with ample shock protection and 100m of water resistance.

The movement

It’s hard to pick out any single element that makes this watch so special, and the movement certainly doesn’t make that decision any easier. The in-house calibre BVL318 is a record-setter for the thinnest automatic movement, with both chronograph and GMT complications just 3.3mm thick. It’s hard to even comprehend how thin that is, but the 8.75mm thickness of the assembled watch helps put things into perspective.

Functionally, the BVL318 is unique in a lot of other ways, too. The crown can be used for hand-winding in normal operation, but pushing the button at 4 o’clock will lock the peripheral winding rotor and allow the crown to be used for setting the time. The pusher at 9 o’clock, which blends in with the case so seamlessly, is used for advancing the hour hand in setting the GMT time. Even with all of that complexity and a full beat rate of 28,800vph, the calibre BVL318 still manages a healthy 55 hours of power reserve.

The verdict

If you’ve always been tempted by the Bulgari Octo Finissimo but maybe wary of having too many bells and whistles, then the reference 103467 may be the one to go for. It’s certainly not without flair and technical brilliance, but it disguises itself well in being as under-the-radar as a Bulgari can be, while asserting itself as a stand-out competitor in the blue-dialled steel sports watch field.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT pricing and availability

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is $25,300 AUD and now available for purchase via Bulgari and their authorised dealers.

Made in partnership with BVLGARI. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.