The Good + Evil Omen warns of a bright future for the brand, made by a lighting designer
Buffy AcaciaDespite having one of the most cryptic brand and model names in the history of watchmaking, the Good + Evil Omen is actually extremely accessible in both concept and execution. There are no occult references to angels or demons like Makina, instead focusing on a streamlined, minimalist aesthetic. Born from the mind of Brooklyn-based architect Christo Logan, Good + Evil’s first watch has already smashed its Kickstarter target.
The case
According to the designer and founder Christo Logan, the Omen made its first step towards its final “backwards D” shape with the decision to integrate the crown – with no inspiration coming from Cartier’s Cloche or Roger Tallon Lip designs, according to the brand founder. That way, nothing can interrupt the intended shapes and surfaces for the sake of utility. Of course, a recessed crown is a little bit annoying to use, but you shouldn’t need to use it very often because of the quartz movement. It’s quite an odd sensation to look at an asymmetrical design but never question its balance, because the vertical symmetry is so strong. The matte texture of the perfectly-flat surfaces is also kind of hypnotic, as if it’s not an object from this world. There is a polished chamfer which runs around the upper edge though, solidifying the reverse D outline.
The technical dimensions of the Good + Evil Omen are 40mm x 40mm, but that doesn’t quite represent how the watch truly wears. The dial diameter is 34mm, and the 40mm lug-to-lug length probably puts it on par with a 38mm watch in terms of wearability. It has a lot of wrist presence, but a small fraction of the expected bulk. The thickness tapers across its width, with the slab side of the watch 6.4mm tall, and the ‘floating’ thin side at only 2.9mm. The bump in the centre where you can access the battery and movement brings the total thickness up to 7.4mm, which is still ultra-thin by many standards. It’s undoubtedly a gender-neutral design. There is also going to be a version in black DLC available, although they won’t be made during the first production run unless the Kickstarter campaign hits US$50,000.
The dial
The freedom of design afforded to microbrands can lead to some crazy outcomes, and the dial of the Good + Evil Omen really lets Christo Logan’s history with lighting design shine through. The entire dial is white, with only raised ridges creating shadows that can be used to read the hour markers. Frankly, it’s one of the least legible dials I’ve seen, but then again I’m a huge fan of the the Cartier Tank Must which has no markers at all. As a dial of artistic expression, it achieves what it sets out to do in a delicate and engaging manner.
The hands are all stripped-back, with a handy hole in the hour hand to help differentiate between the batons with similar thicknesses, but it’s the seconds hand which stands out most. The red plus sign is taken from the Good + Evil brand name, and serves as the watch’s only logo. It grabs a load of attention not just by it being the only bright colour on the watch, but also with its ticking. Overall, the colouring and simplicity is fairly reminiscent of the Mondaine Swiss clock style, albeit with a bit more experimental flair.
The strap
While it’s true that the 18mm strap made of plain black calf leather doesn’t go through the centre of the watch, it travels through the straight sides, ensuring that all right angles and curves of the case don’t cross over confusingly. This is in the same manner as most D-shape watches throughout history, and any other configuration would just look strange. The strap does have quick-release spring bars, so you can experiment all you like with other straps within the case’s hooded lugs.
The movement
For a watch which breaks a lot of rules and favours contemporary design, Good + Evil really don’t need to try and win over any traditionalists. A Swiss quartz movement by Ronda has been used for the Omen, ensuring its slimness and reliability. Given the recessed crown, you really wouldn’t want the hassle of winding or setting the watch more than once in a blue moon. The 1Hz ticking of the red plus may be a turn off to some, but the vast majority of people won’t notice, and will enjoy the watch as it comes.
If you’ve got a penchant for design, the Good + Evil Omen is definitely going to be up your alley. It’s quirky enough to scratch your eccentricity itch, but also not so crazy that you’ll never be able to wear it with anything. As long as actually reading the time isn’t your first priority, it’s a fantastic watch. The price is also pretty fantastic at US$149 for the pre-order, which is 50% off the final RRP. I’m excited to see what Good + Evil produces in the future, especially if it decides to pursue the themes which its name brings up.
Good + Evil Omen pricing and availability
The Good + Evil Omen is currently available for pre-order on Kickstarter at 50% off the RRP. Price: US$149 (pre-orders), US$298 (RRP)
| Brand | Good + Evil |
| Model | Omen |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (W) x 7.4mm (T) x 40mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel, and soon with optional black PVD |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | White |
| Lug Width | 18mm |
| Bracelet | Black leather |
| Movement | Ronda quartz |
| Power Reserve | 3-5 years |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Now available for pre-order on Kickstarter |
| Price | US$149 (pre-orders) US$298 (RRP) |