The craziest watches from Geneva Watch Days 2023 The craziest watches from Geneva Watch Days 2023

The craziest watches from Geneva Watch Days 2023


During our visit to Geneva Watch Days 2023, we got to experience some of the craziest watches of the year. Carbon cases, constant force escapements, fluid displays and more from brands like Bulgari, Czapek and Girard-Perregaux all make the list, serving as a total opposite to the numerous stealth wealth pieces that featured during the fair.

Editor’s note: The below is an adapted transcription of Andrew’s commentary in the video, along with full specifications tables four each of these four ‘crazy’ watches. But please do yourself a favour and watch the video in full.

Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement

girard perregaux constant escapement

First up is the reinvented Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement. This watch, or its mechanism rather, was inspired by a person on a train snapping a card back and forth, which triggered a brilliant designer to think of a new way to construct an escapement. However, with this latest iteration we have a dramatically smaller case size and a new time display. Instead of having a little time display on a sub-dial at 12 o’clock, we now have central hands taking up the full space of the dial. It is smaller, more wearable, has a much more legible time display, and also there have been many micro adjustments to the constant force movement making it more reliable and more accurate (backed by COSC certification). Well done Girard-Perregaux.

Brand Girard-Perregaux
Model Neo Constant Escapement
Reference Number 93510-21-1930-5CX
Case Dimensions 45mm (D) x 14.8mm (T)
Case Material Titanium
Water Resistance 30 metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire
Dial Open
Strap Rubber with titanium tri-fold buckle
Movement GP09200, in-house, hand-wound, COSC-certified, constant-force escapement
Power Reserve 7 days
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve
Availability Now
Price US$99,600, CHF 95,000


HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires

HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires

Number two, the watch that I have to look at my phone to read out the name of, it’s the HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires Time Keeper. But, in that long-winded title is everything that is bonkers about this watch. We have a tourbillon on a 30 degree angle, we have a case thickness of 25mm and a diameter of over 48mm. However, this watch wears surprisingly well and it fits on my 7 inch wrist really well. That is because it is 52.3mm lug-to-lug, compact for a 48mm watch, and the strap adheres to the side of the case and drops straight down. It is also absolutely wild with sapphires rotating around that slanted tourbillon, and then, of course, HYT makes the only watches that have meca-fluidic time displays. This can be seen in action around the edges with two bellows pushing the retrograde fluidic hours to indicate the time in conjunction with a central minutes hand.

Brand HYT
Model Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires
Reference Number H03131-A
Case Dimensions 48mm (D) x 25.15mm (T) x 52.3mm (LTL)
Case Material 5N gold and black-coated titanium
Water Resistance 30 metres
Crystal(s) Box-domed sapphire
Dial Black-coated brass, sapphires, 5N coated grid and borosilicate tubes
Strap Black rubber and brown leather with embossing
Movement 701-TC, manual winding, 21,600vph, composed of 533 pieces
Power Reserve 40 hours
Functions Retrograde fluidic hours, central minutes, conical tourbillon, chaotic animation
Availability 8 pieces, for enquiries
Price CHF 390,000


Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité

Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité

Up next is Czapek with their Place Vendôme Complicité, which has two balance wheels in action on the bottom of the dial. This watch is reimagined from a 1930s piece that has the double escapement we see in modern form here, and it is really quite spectacular in the metal. A really noteworthy thing about this watch is that it’s highly complicated, obviously, but also very reasonable to wear at 42mm due to its 48.2mm lug-to-lug span. There is something super compelling about exposed escapements and this watch certainly gives you two times the fun.

Brand Czapek
Model Place Vendôme Complicité Harmony Blue
Case Dimensions 41.8mm (D) x 14.8mm (T) x 48.2mm (LTL)
Case Material 18k 5N rose gold
Water Resistance 5 atm
Crystal(s) Domed sapphire
Dial Openworked with blue galvanic treatment
Strap Alligator leather, 18k 5N rose gold folding clasp
Movement Calibre 8, in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer, dual escapement, manually wound
Power Reserve 72 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve
Availability Limited to 50 pieces in each colour
Price CHF 85,000 (ex. VAT)


Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar

Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar

Last, but certainly not least, if the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold time only was not complicated enough for you, then how about this perpetual calendar configuration? What an absolutely divine perpetual calendar dial layout we have here. The CarbonGold is this lovely camouflage, animal pattern style of carbon, now with rose gold displays for the perpetual calendar. This is one of my favorite perpetual dials ever because I can read it and understand it with ease thanks to Fabrizio’s masterful eye for clean design. When you flip it over, you are going to see some stealth wealth on display with a rose gold-plated movement that utilises a platinum micro-rotor also plated in rose gold to keep the aesthetic uniform while maximising the density of the rotor.

Brand Bulgari
Model Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar
Reference Number 103778
Case Dimensions 40mm (D) x 7.6mm (T)
Case Material Carbon, rose gold and ceramic
Water Resistance 30 metres
Crystal(s) Flat sapphire front and back
Dial Carbon
Strap Carbon bracelet with folding clasp
Movement BVL 305, in-house, 2.75mm thickness
Power Reserve 60 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, retrograde date and leap year
Availability Now
Price A$145,000