Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection

Zach Blass

• Inspired by the world-famous Belvedere Palace in Vienna, Austria
• The Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere continues the brand’s aesthetic codes of contrasting directional lines
• The “Suchy Twist” is a new date display that changes position each day

Watch enthusiasts are constantly stacking watches up against each other, drawing parallels in the design codes and dissecting who did what first. But if watch design has become more homogenous, it is directly linked to buyer behavior. Demand is surging for watches that tick the same aesthetic and functional boxes. But, with the rise of independents, a greater effort is being made to try and sway buyers away from the typical – towards pieces situated within these popular categories, but with refreshing expressions. The new Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere collection aims to do just that, presenting a a sporty daily wearer with a distinct Austrian twist. Based in Vienna, the Carl Suchy & Söhne manufacture dates all the way back to 1822, but this is their first foray into the modern sports segment – and it boasts a rather intriguing twist.

The Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere finds itself in a very wrist-friendly, 40.8mm stainless-steel case that’s 12.2mm thick and offers a very compact 43.9mm lug-to-lug case length. Within the sports watch category, it is very easy for brands to effectively copy their peers’ paper and simply stamp their name on it.  Here, subtle design elements to the case make the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere stand out. Rather than having predominantly brushed surfaces and polished accents, the Belvedere case is decorated with a pearl-blasted finish that is then complimented by its mirror-polished bezel, lugs and caseback.  The lugs have a large presence, seemingly integrated into the curvature of the case – yet bold and faceted. They appear to be a very sporty take on a Cornes de Vache sensibility or form. With the lugs starting high on the flank of the case, they add very little length to the case and almost serve as crown guards to the knurled screw-down crown that features black lacquer fillings – another subtle display of distinct character.

The three dials, however, are where the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere really sets itself apart. Available in Day (white), Night (black) and Danube (blue), each of the lacquered dials continue the textures seen in their previous Waltz collection. The outer integrated concave flange has a rather coined guilloche texture, with embedded metal studs as the minute markers and rounded baton hour indices filled with SuperLuminova. The central medallion is where those familiar with Carl Suchy & Söhne. and their Waltz collection will immediately recognise a through line. On the Waltz models, a small seconds disc is decorated with half its surface displaying a vertically lined texture and the other half horizontally lined – the break in pattern subtly serving as a running seconds hand. With the Belvedere, we also have a rotating disc decorated in this distinct manner. But, it is not the running seconds. Instead this disc rotates once every day to reveal the date numerals beneath. This not only offers a quirky means of date display, but also, in a sense, a different dial aesthetic each day as the textured lines rotate. The contrasting directions of the dial lines will also change how light hits and reflect off the dial, offering an intriguing visual experience.

Each of the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere watches are offered on dial-matching, quick-release 22mm rubber straps that taper down to 20mm as you reach the deployant clasp with safety lock. I particularly like how they have a seemingly raised surface on the rubber where the material rests flush against the case, in actuality a glossy curved line that appears to connect the lugs, as if a portion of the case were rubber. I also like that the upper of the rubber has a clean matte feel so that it does not clash with the texture of the dial, and that the underside is home to a micro-engraved Belvedere Garden motif – like an intricate suit lining that is just for you. Beneath the exhibition caseback, you can see the automatic CSS201 (modified Dubois Dépraz DD90000) within. The movement itself does not really appear to have that sense of high-end finishing, more like an elaboré grade ETA if you will. Where the caseback aesthetic is really saved is via its gold-plated rotor micro-engraved facade of Belvedere Palace. This detail adds a heightened sense of elegance to the movement aesthetic.

If your sole focus in watch collecting is movement finishing, then the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere may not be for you at CHF 6,400. But, its daily wear capabilities, highly wearable dimensions, distinguished aesthetic, and limited production for the year, will have strong appeal for those who want to separate themselves from the herd in style.

Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere pricing and availability:

The Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere collection is available now, but will be limited to 100 pcs. in 2023. Price: CHF 6,400

Brand	Carl Suchy & Söhne
Model	Belevedere Automatic
Case Dimensions	40.8mm (D) x 12.2mm (T) x 43.9mm (L2L)
Case Material	Stainless steel
Water Resistance	100m (screw-down crown)
Dial	Day (white), Night (black), Danube (blue) decorated lacquered dials with integrated concave flange
Crystal(s)	Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback
Bracelet/Strap	Dial-matching rubber strap (22 mm x 20 mm) with quick-release spring bars; micro-engraved Belvedere Garden on the inside. 316L stainless steel deployant clasp with safety lock
Movement	Automatic CSS201 (modified Dubois Dépraz DD90000)
Power Reserve	42 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, moving date window
Availability	Now (Limited to 100 pcs. in 2023)
Price	CHF 6,400