WATCHES & WONDERS: Patek Philippe remind us there’s more to life than sport watches
Fergus NashEditor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for now let’s run through each of the new watches – here are the Patek Philippe novelties of Watches & Wonders 2022.
Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time and 5226G-001
This year is shaping up to be an incredibly exciting time for watchmaking, with most of 2021’s trend-following habits thrown away for the sake of new watches with new designs. These two new watches from Patek Philippe may have a lot of antique flavour, but their addition to one of the loftiest catalogues in watchmaking prove that there’s still room for innovation. The granular dial is supposed to evoke the feeling of a vintage camera, while the charcoal grey fumé colouring warmly blends with the creamy tones of the off-white paint.
For the 5326G-001, Patek Philippe have combined their annual calendar and travel time complications for the first time in the calibre 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H, a movement even more complex than it’s name designation. Ensuring that the annual calendar is accurate to wherever the wearer is, it’s driven by the travel time complication, and the regular calendar is linked to the home time display. If you’re not much for travelling or complications but are enamoured by the gritty dial and hobnail case design, there’s also the reference 5226G-001 in the Calatrava collection with the same look in a smaller 40mm package.
| Case Material | 18k White Gold |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm x 11.07mm / 40mm x 8.53mm |
| Water-Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Granular grey fumé |
| Straps | Brown alligator leather |
| Movement | Caliber 31‑260 PS QA LU FUS 24H / Caliber 26-330 S C |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours / 45 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, date / annual calendar, travel time |
| Price | 65,000 CHF / 33,000 CHF |
Ref. 5320G-011 Perpetual Calendar
When the reference 5320 first dropped in 2017, Patek Philippe had created a watch that summarised the classical character of the brand while pushing forward in legibility and modern expectations. Now, that watch is reimagined with a stunning salmon dial in opaline rose gold that dials up the vintage flair even higher without any sacrifice. (Like this dial? Check out our article on the best salmon dials here.)
With applied Arabic numerals that have bold black outlines, the dial really does pop a lot more than it would have otherwise and it doesn’t compromise the old-school atmosphere. The perpetual calendar is one of the most sought-after complications in all of watchmaking, requiring adjustment only once every 122 years. Despite being able to read the day, date, month, day/night and leap year status, the dial remains uncluttered and neat. The luxurious finishing of the calibre 324 S Q can also be seen from the exhibition caseback.
| Case Material | 18k White Gold |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm x 11.13mm |
| Water-Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Salmon |
| Straps | Brown alligator leather |
| Movement | Calibre 324 S Q |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar |
| Price | 73,000 CHF |
Ref. 5205R-011 Complications
The green dial craze has to be one of the best things to happen to the Patek Philippe 5205, with this new Annual Calendar Reference 5205R looking like it was created purely to thrive in green and gold. The olive green dial’s sunburst brushing gives it a radiance as the streaks run outwards, mirroring the circular arrangement of the dial and complications themselves. A slight black vignette adds to the evolving contrast and lets the 18k rose gold case glow to its fullest potential.
The Calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/206 is already guaranteed to be a fantastic movement just from the fact that it’s a Patek Philippe, but the arched windows displaying the day, date, and month details of the annual calendar show that the design embraces its complexity rather than trying to disguise it. The 24-hour subdial that surrounds the moonphase complication finishes off the dial nicely, giving it that little bit more magic that only a moon and stars can add.
| Case Material | 18k Rose Gold |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm x 11.36mm |
| Water-Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Green fumé |
| Straps | Green alligator leather |
| Movement | Calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/206 |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, annual calendar |
| Price | 45,200 CHF |
Ref. 5230P-001 World Time
Patek Philippe’s 5230 World Time watches have been a staple of opulence since the initial release in 2016, representing a modern traveller with a classical attitude instead of the steel sports watch models that were getting all of the attention. For Watches & Wonders 2022, the latest evolution of Patek Philippe’s World Timers that stretch back to the 1930s has been given the extravagant luxury of a platinum case, and tell-tale peacock blue dial.
The Calibre 240 HU uses a patented system that allows incremental hour-by-hour adjustment of the entire World Time display, keeping both city rings and the 24-hour ring simultaneously accurate when changing the time. The central section of the dial now also features a guilloché pattern that almost looks like dinosaur scales in the way it plays with the light. If the front of the watch wasn’t enough eye candy, the exhibition caseback is just as impressively decorated, and easily visible thanks to the automatic micro-rotor.
| Case Material | Platinum |
| Case Dimensions | 38.5mm x 10.23mm |
| Water-Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Blue |
| Straps | Blue alligator leather |
| Movement | Calibre 240 HU |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, world time |
| Price | Price Upon Request |
Ref. 5374/300P-001 Grand Complication minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar
The Patek Philippe Reference 5374 combined both technical feats of minute repeaters and perpetual calendars in an attractive, classical package, and now the 5374/300P throws out any traces of conservative styling. With a solid platinum case adorned with a litany of baguette-cut diamonds, this watch is a show of wealth and technical prowess like few others.
The way the diamonds are set around the case are intentionally broad, creating a hall-of-mirrors like effect rather than the loud sparkling that most diamond-studded watches carry. This gives the case a larger-than-life feeling that stands out on the wrist with much less potential tackiness that is usually associated with iced-out watches. The Calibre R 27 Q uses two “cathedral” gongs for a richer ringing tone, as well as a beautifully decorated micro-rotor so that more is visible through the display caseback.
| Case Material | Platinum |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm x 12.28mm |
| Water-Resistance | 0m – dust and humidity only |
| Dial | Blue |
| Straps | Blue alligator leather |
| Movement | Calibre R 27 Q |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, minute repeater |
| Price | Price Upon Request |