Glare tactics: 7 watches that aren’t afraid to go full lume Glare tactics: 7 watches that aren’t afraid to go full lume

Glare tactics: 7 watches that aren’t afraid to go full lume

Borna Bošnjak

The formula is simple. Lume is cool, so that must mean the more lume, the better. Rather than pointing out any potential flaws in my logic, here’s a roundup of full-lume dial watches, covering different styles and price points.

Signum Cuda Titanium

A microbrand in its infancy, the story of Signum is backed by the expertise of Kyle Schut, the man behind Straton Watch Co. Signum leaves behind the TV-style cases and brown palettes of the 1970s, opting for bold, modern designs that are most obvious in the Cuda Titanium Full Lume. Touted as sporting some of the best lume in recent years, the neon trio is a formidable force, especially considering the US$349 price point.

Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Whitepearl

Doxa completely whitewashed their offering at Watches and Wonders 2022, including the Carbon 300 Whitepearl. As if it already wasn’t a cool enough watch, the two-tone full-lume dial is sure to help the already excellent legibility of the SUB 300. Better still, you can find it in the Time+Tide Shop.

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Full Lum

full lume watches

You’ve already fully lumed the dial, yet thirst for more lume. What do you do? Lume the entire rubber strap, of course. The brightest-shining member of the Bell & Ross “Lum” lineup, the BR 03-92 incorporates a matte black ceramic case for extra after-dark contrast.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver

full lume watches

Part of the headlining release of the newly-redesigned Aquaracer Professional 300, the Night Diver recalls the blacked-out and lumed-out models of the 1980s. With bicolour lume and black markers that contrasted against the glowing backdrop, it’s another example of TAG Heuer taking the correct amount of inspiration from their back catalogue, while avoiding unnecessary campiness.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic Chronograph GMT “Nuclear Option”

full lume watches

What happens when you black out a sleek, architectural design and drown its dial in luminous paint? The “Nuclear Option” by Bulgari and Revolution is what happens. The subsequent, sinister sibling to the “White Light” launched in 2020 was prototyped by a certain Buonamassa Stigliani at Bulgari. Wei Koh of Revolution reminisces of the prototype stages, along with perfecting the level of dial luminosity, resulting in this unique release.

F.P. Journe Élégante

full lume watches
Image courtest of The Watch Club

The Élégante represents the journey of its master perfectly. Starting off as a relatively unknown piece that incorporates a beautifully romantic take on modern watchmaking, it has now become an object of desire for many collectors. The icy blue hue emanating from the instantly recognisable F.P. Journe dial serves as the quirk that tops off this curious quartz piece.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen

 

full lume watches

Watches with lots of lume are oft-associated with divers and tool watches, and less so with haute horlogerie pieces. The German powerhouse turned this sentiment upside down with the 2010 release of the Zeitwerk Lumen, iterating through their catalogue and applying the same skeletonised, luminous treatment to multiple models along the way. The most notable of all, in my humble opinion, is the Datograph Lumen. And no, strictly speaking, it doesn’t have a dial at all, but with a watch like this, I’m prepared to make an exception.