Ferg’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store

Fergus Nash

If you’ve been paying attention to Time+Tide lately, I’m sure you’ve become aware that our store now stocks Baltic watches. As one of the world’s most beloved microbrands, this is an incredibly exciting time to start getting involved with their elegant range of retro divers and dress pieces. I tend to prefer smaller watches with lots of character, so let’s browse and look at my top picks from the Baltic catalogue.

Baltic MR01 Salmon

Not that this list is in any particular order, but the MR01 Salmon is by far my favourite Baltic. Those who know me will know all about my love of pink, and while this lovely, sandy tone of neutral pink-gold isn’t quite as vibrant as my hair dye, it still feels like a kindred spirit. The slightly chunky case design is tamed by the 36mm diameter, feeling like a true 1950s wristwatch but with some appropriate modernisations. The Breguet numerals, the off-centre small seconds and the stippled texture are all firmly in my list of likes too. The Hangzhou 5000a micro-rotor movement looks gorgeous from the exhibition caseback, and it also keeps the total thickness dainty at 9.9mm.

Baltic HMS 002 Black

While it’s not as glamorous as some Baltic models, the HMS 002 in black is a wonderful lesson in subtlety. The stepped case design is a tribute to Art Deco watches produced around the ’30s-’40s, while the crosshair-divided sector dial has the distinct flair of the 1950s about it. The black dial is incredibly versatile and a strap monster with a 20mm lug width, but the supplied green leather strap is also massively appealing. The 38mm diameter is perhaps a bit bigger than I’d like for a time-only watch, but it’s still very wearable on my small wrists. I love the use of acrylic for the crystal, as I find it has a softer diffusion of light than sapphire and most scratches can be polished out when necessary. Paired with a Miyota 8315 movement, this is a great budget option for Mad Men vibes.

Baltic Bicompax 002 Blue Gilt

More often than not, I’m not a fan of blue dials. That can be difficult in a world where blue is usually the only option other than black, but it means that when I’m won over by blue you know it’s exceptional. Whether it’s the particular shade that Baltic use, the textures they apply to the dial, or the contrast with the yellow gold details, I fall head over heels in love with this Bicompax 002 Blue Gilt every time I see it. I’ve often described the Baltic blue as sapphires tumbling into ocean depths, as the way it plays with the light looks like the sun streaming in through the waves. The lack of numerals around the dial’s perimeter or the subdials keeps things looking nice and clean, but doesn’t lose any functionality thanks to the delicate printed markers. The Seagull ST1901 is a much-loved movement among budget collectors, and although it’s a shame it’s hidden by a solid caseback I would still enjoy knowing the history behind it.

You can check out the entire Baltic collection at the Time+Tide Shop now.