Watch enthusiasts could not care less about this Rolex line, but celebrities seem to love the Pearlmaster. Why?
Zach BlassIf you were asked to name a Rolex model, the Submariner, Daytona, GMT Master II, and Explorer I and II would all probably be the first to come to mind. Then more classic models like the Datejust, Day-Date, and Oyster Perpetual. Lastly more deep-cut models like the Yachtmasters and Cellini (or now 1908). Nobody, and I really mean nobody, would ever think to mention the Pearlmaster. Yet, recently go-to watchspotting Instagram account @celebwatchspotter shared a photo of Lebron James wearing his. It is a Rolex model hardly anyone ever discusses, or quite frankly shares they are chasing and lusting after. But, after a little bit of digging, and remembering I once noticed the Pearlmaster while looking into Drake’s watch collection, I have since learned that there are a fair number of celebrities who sport the Pearlmaster as well. But, if I am being honest, it is a rather, to put it colloquially, ‘fugly’ design in my opinion. So, why?
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The Rolex Pearlmaster backstory
First introduced in 1992, the Pearlmaster’s run would last three decades until its discontinuation in 2022. The model, which has been exclusively manufactured in precious metal since its inception and is adorned with at least 12 diamonds or gemstones in all of its configurations, is described by Paul Altieri, the CEO of Bob’s Watches, as “an ultra-premium, luxury-oriented Datejust” – a description I am inclined to agree with. In Altieri’s write-up on his platform, he explains that the Pearlmaster name stems from the model’s distinct bracelet which utilises five rounded pieces in each of its links, and Rolex’s concealed Crownclasp reserved for their higher-end jewellery watches.
The bracelet, uncharacteristically for Rolex, is entirely mirror-polished. As is the Pearlmaster’s case, which towards the end of its run was presented in strictly 34mm or 39mm sizes. Initially, the Pearlmaster was presented in 29mm and 34mm sizes which makes sense as it was initially positioned as a premium Lady-Datejust.
The text Pearlmaster was never utilised on the dial, rather Datejusts or Day-Dates outfitted on this bracelet, and embellished with diamonds and gemstones as the collection required, define them as a Pearlmaster. The throughline, in my eyes, is an incredibly garish collection of watches that seem way over the top and would have left me thinking Rolex should leave jewellery watches to experts like Piaget, Cartier, and Bulgari had they not had their beautiful rainbow Daytona and other gemset pieces in their more traditional collections. In Rolex’s usually restrained and homogenous catalogue, the bracelet architecture comes off like a poor aftermarket design that, like a quartz-ticking second hand, would mistakenly lead people to cry fake Rolex.
Exclusivity, rarity, and bling – a recipe for love from the rich and famous
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Within the context of celebrities and the rich and famous, its acceptance does not require a huge jump in logic when you consider the fact that this somewhat secret-menu Rolex collection was positioned as the ultra-premium Rolex line. With its ample usage of diamonds and gemstones, remember at least 12 stones in any given watch, the Pearlmaster may as well have been called the ‘Rolex Peacock’ with its typically iridescent dial hues and bling that blinds the eye and begs for attention.
The most commonly seen models poorly incorporate Explorer-style 9′ and 6′ arabic numerals that, out of all of the design aspects of the Pearlmaster, I find to be among the most flagrant of fouls. The bracelet architecture is what ultimately irks me the most, but, perhaps, like a bulldog, there is some ugly-cute redeeming quality? I don’t know. Drake’s Pearlmaster above, with a purple dial and purple-blue gradient gemstone-set bezel, is something I would be able to get behind were all indices just uniformly diamonds and if it were affixed to a jubilee bracelet instead. But a Pearlmaster is not a Pearlmaster without its (what I find to be) horrific bracelet.
I know this all is coming off like a Fashion Police rant, which you either are really enjoying the rare blatant negativity from my end or not, but the Pearlmaster is something I find fascinating. Rolex, who largely gets everything right in terms of design, in this instance got it completely wrong (at least until they finally discontinued the line).
I typically applaud brands trying something different, especially in a Swiss industry typically stuck in the past. And I do not want to discourage Rolex from being playful or attempting to create more ‘premium’ high-bling baller watches. I was all for both the Celebration Dial OP and Jigsaw Day-Date. For me, the Pearlmaster, in the context of celebrity wrists, just feels a little too try-hard in that the pieces all scream ‘look Ma, I made it’. When trying to flex, I guess it is hard to resist what was the most distinct and premium-priced collection within the Crown. To each their own though. Fortunately, it seems Rolex has realised that premium high-jewellery takes on their refined staples and proven collections and designs is a much better route.