It's hard to overstate the importance of the Zenith El Primero. The movement, an elegant, high-beat column-wheel chronograph, is impressive enough. It's even more impressive when you factor in that this miniature engineering feat was the first automatic chronograph to be presented as a working prototype — after seven long years of development. Just as important — or perhaps even more important — is the staying power of the El Primero. It's been in near continuous production, and is still one of the greatest automatic chronograph movements on the market today. Today, we're going to explore its evolution … 1969 – the birth The dramatic inception of the El Primero is probably the most famous part of its story — which makes sense given that it's called "the first" in Esperanto (the utopian universal language that had a life much briefer than the movement itself). Zenith was in fierce R&D competition with the Chronomatic Group (Breitling, Heuer et al) and — further from home — Seiko, but Zenith made their announcement in January 1969, well before the Chronomatic in March, and Seiko in May. And while Zenith's El Primero didn't hit the market until October, they earned the right to… Read More
INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019
This year, Zenith is lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero automatic chronograph, which is being marked with the release of the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival. This is a very cool watch for a number of reasons, but first, let's look back a half century. The birth of the El Primero It was an important year in the history of watchmaking, as in 1969 the first ever quartz watch was released, as well as the first ever automatic chronograph. While a number of brands completed designs of an automatic chronograph that year (including Seiko and TAG Heuer), Zenith was the only brand to manufacture a watch that beat 36,000 per hour (or 5Hz), making it accurate to one-tenth of a second. The El Primero movement would go on to be an iconic chronograph movement, and one of the oldest in continuous production to this day. 50 years on – the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival The release of the commemorative Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is an accurate re-creation of the original A384, from the 37mm case size to the black-and-white lacquer dial (Panda dial for those who like to zoomorphise). While 37mm is smaller… Read More
HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 – not your average chronograph
The Defy is playing an increasingly important role in Zenith's lineup — offering a modern alternative to the Pilot's line that has dominated the discussion for so long. And there's a lot to like about it — modern style with a hint of retro flavour. And while the Defy spans the spectrum from accessible to ultra high-end, the watch we're looking at today — the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 — sits neatly in the middle, adding a quintessentially Zenith complication to the sporty 44mm package. That complication is, of course, the chronograph — and not just any chrono, but the mighty El Primero. Only here it's the El Primero on steroids — the El Primero 21. The party trick here is the fact that the chronograph is packing two escapements, one for the timekeeping, and one for the chronograph. The real kicker is the beat rate for the chronograph escapement — 360,000 vph. This means that the central hand doesn't make a full rotation every minute, but every second (that's 1/100th of a second accuracy). It's a whirling, mad thing to look at, and super cool. It's also something of an energy hog, as you might expect, which leads… Read More
VIDEO: A century of Zenith El Primero on offer in the A386 Revival 50th Anniversary gold models from Baselworld 2019
A century? Wait, isn't the Zenith El Primero celebrating its 50th birthday this year? Yes, correct. However, in a surprise move, the brand is offering a 50-year warranty on these A386 Revival 50th Anniversary models in 18ct gold (white, yellow and red, all at the same price). Hence the 100 years — 50 years of goodness just gone, and 50 to come with these sensitively reissued 38mm tri-colour overlapping register chronographs with stunningly finished El Primero 400 movements. There's really a lot to love about this collection, and most of it is good and simple. Zenith did the right thing by the original with this revival of the first ever El Primero in 1969. The case size is unchanged at 38mm, the power reserve is 50 hours, and the straps are alligator with gold pin buckles. As per this video, there is the option of a box set, or watches can be bought individually. Australian pricing for the Zenith El Primero A386 Revival 50th Anniversary pricing The Zenith El Primero A386 Revival 50th Anniversary watches in 18ct white, yellow and red gold, $27,500
HANDS-ON: White heat – the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic
I'm not sure if Lou Reed would have liked this watch (I hope he would have), but I know I certainly do. The modern sports line that is the Defy is an increasing priority for Zenith – a key, future-facing pillar for the brand that is both distinctive and incredibly versatile. This new version, all 41mm of blinding white ceramic, proves this point. Do me a favour, take a minute and check out another version of this self same design. Now, look at the watch below. It's a marked difference. With the matt ceramic case, open-worked dial (replete with that signature star motif) and textured white rubber strap, there's little argument that this is a watch intended to make a statement. Legibility, for example, is not the aim of the game. Having said that, in the few minutes I wore this piece (a few minutes more than I should have — I was a little smitten), I was quite taken at how wearable it was. Maybe not a daily suit-and-tie watch, but if you rock a more casual style, it's certainly a viable regular rotation contender — especially if you were to swap the strap out for something a little more… Read More
INTRODUCING: The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Silver
Zenith is rather proud of the fact — and understandably so — that they hold the trademark for the "Pilot" name on watches, so it makes sense for them to proudly emblazon the name on the dials of their aviation-inspired pieces. This latest limited edition is extra special (also mentioned on the dial), because of its uncommon construction. The design of this Pilot is — well — pure pilot, with its large, classically shaped 45mm case, even bigger onion crown, stylised Arabic numerals and cathedral hands, replete with a suitably rugged calfskin strap (with an extra, somewhat mysterious, layer of leather on the bottom). Where things start getting interesting is the case material. You'd be forgiven for thinking it was steel, or perhaps even white gold. But no, you're looking at sterling silver. Silver, while very traditional in jewellery, isn't frequently seen in watches, largely because it tarnishes over time. However, in this age of forced patina, a silver case offers a dressier alternative to de rigueur bronze. The dial is also noteworthy. Made to resemble the riveted hull of a plane, it also features a very cool, randomised brush finish, again evoking the industrial finishing of early planes. It's a… Read More
INTRODUCING: Evoque'd – the Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover Edition
Zenith hold a certain affinity for mechanical machines – and not just of the time-telling variety. From pilot watches that celebrate all things planes and motorbikes, to El Primero-powered chronographs that take their open road inspiration from the world of classic cars. For the past three years the Swiss manufacturer has also enjoyed a partnership with British 4WD vehicle manufacturer Land Rover. To celebrate the introduction of the next-generation Range Rover Evoque, Zenith have once again partnered with the iconic UK carmaker and released this limited-edition version of the modern and sporty Defy Classic Skeleton. The very first extension of the Defy Classic line that we've seen since it was released back at Baselworld 2018, to the untrained eye, the differences might take a minute to recognise. However, once you know what to look for, the subtle changes, and even the watch's Evoque inspiration, become immediately apparent. There's still the same incredibly versatile — and frankly, good-looking — 41mm titanium case that's water resistant to 100 metres, and inside, displayed in all its glory, is the brand's 50-hour Elite 670 SK automatic movement with its silicon escape-wheel and lever. What has changed, though, are the colourful highlights found on the front and… Read More
INTRODUCING: The three amigos – Zenith's Defy Zero G dons Mexican affair
Around these horological parts, we really love a good four-letter acronym – SIHH, GPHG, COSC … I think you get the idea. In fact, have a conversation with any random watch enthusiast, and chances are that at least one of these terms will come up. However, one that we don't hear a lot about on this side of the world is SIAR. It stands for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería — the Latin American luxury watch show, which has been held in Mexico City for the past 12 years. Taking place right now, from October 16 to 18, every year sees a convergence of some of the biggest names in the industry, as well as more and more watches dedicated to the Mexican and Latin American markets. And this year is no different, with Zenith releasing a set of exclusive special-editions of their mind-boggling Defy Zero G. In all, there are three different takes of the Zero G, and each one is available in a choice of titanium, yellow gold, or rose gold. They all feature the same 44mm case with a matching bracelet and clasp, and all still house the manually wound El Primero 8812 S calibre, with its 50-hour… Read More
