Nick Kenyon

Posts by Nick:

09.12.2019

When is faux-patina okay? Early thoughts on the new Omega Seamaster 007 Edition

Omega recently released the hotly anticipated Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, in association with Bond's newest upcoming adventure, No Time To Die. It isn't the first watch Omega has produced in partnership with the legacy of Ian Fleming, not even the first one in 2019, but with its under the radar brushed titanium case, it's certainly one of the best-looking watches the franchise has ever produced. But while the new Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition was met with a crowd of cheers, there were inevitably a few grumbles about the watch (yes, generally in the Instagram comments), mostly focused on…

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frosted gold audemars piguet 08.12.2019

Frosted gold is very, very underrated

Editor's note: There are lots of ways that watchmakers like to decorate their micromechanical marvels, such as engraving, polishing, brushing or even Côtes de Genève inside the case. While all of these techniques are wonderfully effective when done well, one of the most visually impressive (and generally underrated) techniques to finish a watch is hammering to achieve a frosted look. Used predominantly in jewellery, Audemars Piguet have deployed the artisanal method on the cases of some of their Royal Oak references, plating up a visual feast that looks like it has just left the freezer. Frosted gold catches the light…

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Vertex MP45 chronograph 05.12.2019

What Sealed The Deal – James' Vertex MP45 chronograph

Vertex is a brand with a wonderful history. Founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, the brand produced watches for Allied troops in the Second World War, following the specifications of the British Ministry of Defence, alongside 11 other brands (a group of manufacturers now known by collectors as the Dirty Dozen). The brand continued to produce watches in the post-war years, until Vertex was forced to close its doors in February 1972, due to the quartz era which wreaked havoc on the watch industry. The brand remained the subject of history books until 43 years later, in 2015, when Don…

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Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition 03.12.2019

INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition

The latest young star to join the ranks of Rado is the Australian tennis player Ash Barty, who despite being only 23 has already reached the position of women's world No. 1. What is most exciting for us, and her fans around the world, is that she has collaborated with Rado to release a watch this year, bringing us the Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition, a white-hot watch that matches perfectly with the uniform of Wimbledon, which was her first junior Grand Slam win. While we obviously love Ash Barty because she's an Aussie, we also love that she…

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Pequignet Rue Royale 03.12.2019

What Sealed The Deal – David's Pequignet Rue Royale

Getting engaged is an incredibly special moment in anyone's life, as it spells the beginning of something that will endure to stand the test of time. What better way to celebrate than with a new watch, to match your fiancée's new ring. This is the story of David and his Pequignet Rue Royale. When did you first see/hear about it? Nearly 10 years ago I read about a brand called Pequignet in one of France's national papers. I could instantly tell their Rue Royale was a serious machine, with its classic good looks and multiple complications powered by an in-house…

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Rolex Cellini collection 01.12.2019

Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection

Editor's note:Benvenuto Cellini was an Italian goldsmith and sculptor born in the last year of the 15th century, who would go on to become one of the most important precious metal workers of his time, finding employment with the royal families of Europe and the Vatican. It is this talented artisan who was the inspiration for the Rolex Cellini collection we know today, with clear links between the Mediterranean metalworker and the timeless designs seen throughout the family of watches. While the "W" word has persistently dominated almost all mention of Rolex in recent times, it is worthwhile to take the…

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Sotheby's Australia auction 01.12.2019

7 exceptional watches at the next Sotheby's Australia auction

Last time I covered a Sotheby's Australia auction, it was my first time attending a watch auction, and while there were a number of highlights, the sale was heavily weighted towards jewellery. In December, however, Hamish Sharma, the Head of Jewels at Sotheby's Australia, and his hardworking team have produced a sale that not only has more watches but includes a number of very rare pieces that may have never hit the public market in Australia before. A standout among the highlights is the sale of a yellow gold Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI from 1969 ref. 145.022-69, which is an…

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Dubai Watch Week 28.11.2019

Why did Dubai Watch Week invite a quantum physicist to speak?

Science is very boring. For most people at least, and Michael Biercuk, who works as a quantum physicist, is far from most people. In fact, the phrase "Only boring people get bored" goes a long way to explaining why (if you follow the syllogism) Michael is deeply interested in a highly technical area that causes the eyes of most to glaze over, because he is also deeply interesting. I met with him at Dubai Watch Week, where he was a speaker at the event, and was fortunate enough to sit down with him and find out about his work as…

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Seiko Save the Ocean 28.11.2019

Saving the Ocean with Seiko Prospex

I recently had the privilege of attending an event with Seiko that focused on their Save the Ocean collection, and the work that can be done with the funds raised. While the event itself was an interesting blend of experience and information, I'll explain exactly what the Seiko Save the Ocean collection is first. If you've ever been in a boutique that carries Seiko, while you were browsing the cabinets packed with their latest releases, you might have noticed a range of dive watches in the Prospex family with gradient blue dials that have an almost metallic quality. If you…

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Dubai Watch Week 2019 27.11.2019

WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019

In a city as affluent as Dubai, it isn't a surprise to see some pretty wild watches come out to play at the city's own Dubai Watch Week. While there are some of the usual suspects to be seen, such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, Dubai also showed its sophisticated side with some less common contemporary pieces and even rarer vintage watches. So while I wasn't able to capture anything close to the full spectrum of interesting timepieces donning the wrists of those wandering the exhibiting booths, this is a small smattering that shows just how varied and articulate the…

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Doxa SUB 300 Professional 25.11.2019

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian's Doxa SUB 300 Professional

While wandering the booths of Dubai Watch Week, any enthusiastic eye can spot Rolex, Patek Philippe and the rest of the usual suspects on the wrists of other attendees, but it was a surprise to see a flash of orange pass by one afternoon. Sure enough, after stopping and speaking with Julian briefly, I confirmed it was indeed a Doxa SUB 300, and that not only was it one of four in his collection but he was also a diver who happily used it while exploring the murky depths. When did you first see/hear about it? I first came across…

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Dubai Watch Week 25.11.2019

What is Dubai Watch Week, and should you go?

Dubai Watch Week is in its fourth year, and is hitting a scale that should be making the other watch fairs around the world take notice. In the context of Baselworld being in some of the worst trouble it has experienced in its 100+ year history and SIHH (now called Watches & Wonders in 2020) losing the commitment of some of its largest brands, and both of the fairs changing their dates in an attempt to make them more convenient to attend (though this was cited as the reason for both Seiko and Grand Seiko pulling out of the 2020…

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hublot ferrari GT 24.11.2019

VIDEO: Hublot's Prancing Pony

At Baselworld 2019, Hublot released a new chronograph in partnership with Ferrari that looked almost un-Hublot. We had become so used to recognising the hard angles and faceted cases of the brand founded by Carlo Crocco that the flowing curves of the newest Classic Fusion were staggeringly svelte in comparison, and suddenly appealing to an entire new part of the watch-loving community with the Hublot Ferrari GT. Here, we take a look at two examples from the new collection, examining in more detail the partnership between Hublot and Ferrari, and how this relationship has made its effect felt on the collection.…

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Bremont Ronnie Wood 24.11.2019

INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood "1947 Collection"

The limited edition watch is a tactic used by watch brands that is receiving increasing numbers of eye-rolls as dozens are churned out each year. But where many brands simply change a dial colour and limit production to 200 pieces, Bremont has been making limited editions with a difference. Cutting through the noise of endless small production runs that are small because a marketing department suggested it, Bremont limited editions are limited for good reasons, such as the Bremont H-4 Hercules having an original piece of the H-4 "Spruce Goose" inlaid in the rotor, or the Bremont Supersonic containing a…

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Casio MTG-B1000RB 22.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Albert's rainbow G-Shock

We've said it before, but if you ask a watch geek their thoughts on the humble G-Shock, chances are they'll give it the tick of approval. Because when it comes to the G-Shock, not only are they incredibly robust watches that are basically bulletproof, but they also exist beyond the horizon of haute horology and have passed into the lands of a more popular culture, where a normal person who has never heard of a tourbillon or a GMT-hand will wear a G-Shock and be proud that it is both cool and comfy. In addition to their broader social recognition,…

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rolex kermit 21.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Gilbert's Rolex Kermit

A relationship with a watch can be a complex one, fraught with the tensions between longing and expectation, and the quotidian reality that it is just an object, full of as much meaning as you are able to maintain within it. If you buy a watch brand new, you can bask in the pleasure of the boutique experience, but are inevitably faced with the anguish of the drawing of first blood as you notice a single scratch on an otherwise pristine surface. If you buy vintage, you inherit the imperfect character of the watch as you recognise that you are…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue 21.11.2019

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue dial

The story in a second: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue dial is a familiar face, which has been sleekly refined. If you know TAG Heuer, you'll know the Carrera chronograph, a wristwatch that has been trackside at motorsport events for decades, offering those behind the wheel a functional timing tool. While some of the design detail has been adjusted over the years to suit the evolving tastes of the gentleman driver, the DNA of the watch has remained the same since its birth in the 1960s. Last year, we were presented with an interpretation of the Carrera Calibre…

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IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph 20.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Chris' IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph

The only thing thrown around more often than the word iconic by watch media is watch media cleverly saying how often the word iconic is being thrown around. But despite committing both sins in one paragraph, Sunday confession would be a comfortable one if you were talking about IWC pilot's watches as iconic. With designs unchanged for decades, it is the archetype of the pilot's watch, with large luminous hour markers and hands that contrast against a dark dial, and essentially offer everything the modern world is looking for in an everyday watch. Chris was kind enough to speak with…

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Les Collectionneurs 17.11.2019

8 incredible vintage watches from Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs

I have always found it strange that the majority of watch brands, who rely so heavily on their long history to market their watches, also make it very difficult for collectors to access any information on vintage pieces from that same brand. Admittedly, there are several brands that are able to provide interested owners with archival extracts for their vintage watches, but it is a minority of manufacturers who support enthusiasm for any watches that were not released last Baselworld. One of the brands in this more broad-minded minority is Vacheron Constantin, whose Les Collectionneurs watches have recently arrived at…

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captain cook 16.11.2019

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct

First released in 1962, the Rado Captain Cook offers firepower on the wrist, as well as more than half a century of rich history. The initial production numbers may have been small during the swinging '60s, but the Captain Cook left its mark on dive watch enthusiasts around the world, and in 2017 Rado treated its fans with a re-release of the famous watch. In this example with a black dial, we are offered a 42mm steel case with a glossy black bezel that frames the dial nicely. The blend of brushed and polished surfaces on the case add contrast,…

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watch auction expert 13.11.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: 14 lessons from Christies' watch auction expert

To work at one of the largest international auction houses in the world, you need to know your stuff, which makes you very good at evaluating the world's rarest watches and also passing that knowledge onto collectors and enthusiasts. One such watch auction expert is Dr Andrew Hildreth, who is responsible for presenting and writing Christie's online course, "History of Watches: 1700 to Now", a comprehensive overview of just about everything you might need to know about the last 300 years of horological history. The man seriously knows what he's talking about, with his favorite vintage watch being a unique…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 12.11.2019

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

This year, the brand known for their focus on avant-garde techniques has updated one of their most iconic sporting chronographs, to produce the best-looking TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 in recent years. With an aesthetic of clean refinement, the less-is-more approach has come up trumps in a watch that prioritises robust functionality over notions of new-age minimalism. While the template of black dials with red highlights has been a successful one for the Calibre 16 over the last few years, this version has been updated with less busy dial markings and text. Additionally, the bold rhodium-plated indexes are less visually…

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Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar 10.11.2019

GPHG "Innovation" Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

It's been a very busy week of watches in Geneva, with Only Watch 2019 setting new records, and the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awarding prizes to some of the best watches of the year (which included some upsets). Amidst the clamour and drama of the GPHG, where the pitting of brands head to head can increase the blood pressure of some ardent watch enthusiasts, the focus can sometimes miss the truly impressive feats of technical engineering that are on display. One of these feats is the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, a watch that not only…

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Breguet Marine 5517 08.11.2019

VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517

More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed as an official chronometer maker of the French Navy, and the tradition lives on today in the Breguet Marine 5517. The 5517 is a robust sports watch, machined in a lightweight titanium that almost perfectly matches the deep-grey dial tone, and offers a host of details that any discerning eye should appreciate. You could talk about the radially brushed dial that explodes from the Breguet logo rather than the typical centre, the flowing wave-like crown guards, or the classic Breguet hands that have been contemporarily reimagined to bring both traditional form…

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custom military Bremont 06.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Nic and his custom military Bremont ALT1-WT

Nothing raises the heart rate of a watch enthusiast faster than the story of a tool watch being used in the environment it was originally designed for, which was why I almost needed to call an ambulance when Nic told me the story of his Bremont ALT1-WT made for his RAAF squadron. Nic's job is flying the fuel tankers of the sky, Australia's KC-30s, which are able to refuel other aircraft while mid-flight. In his squadron's collaboration with Bremont, they customised a number of elements of the original watch, including striping the GMT hand the same colours as their refuelling…

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Breguet Classique 5177 06.11.2019

VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177

Of all of the high-quality, well-finished and technically impressive Breguet watches, it is probably the Breguet Classique 5177 that you think of when you consider modern watches from the brand, and there's a very good reason for that. Its spartan conservatism forces you to look for any notes of flair or extravagance, and you're rewarded all the more for it. Amidst the inky depths of the expansive Grand Feu enamel dial, you are treated to the classically proportioned silver Arabic numerals, finished with an expressive serif that speaks to its discreet élan. As we discuss in the video, while Breguet…

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Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT 05.11.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT

We have recommended taking a look at the master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin deconstructing various watches in the past, and that's because how interesting it is to get a proper look into some of the most popular watches out there. What makes this deconstruction by Peter interesting is that it is with the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT, a watch from a brand that has carved a name for itself thanks to the unparalleled levels of finishing to its cases and dials. But it does beg the question: is the interior of their watch movements — usually hidden from even the most prying…

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Affordable watch 05.11.2019

Affordable watch winners, just in time for summer

Editor's note: As summer is swiftly approaching (in the Southern Hemisphere), a couple of friends who are into watches and I have been increasingly keen on picking up a summer watch. The thing about a summer watch is that you don't want to break the bank when buying one, just in case you do only wear it during the summer. Which led me to thinking about the best watches that live for the summer months, but are also relatively affordable. Have a read, and let us know your favourite affordable watch for summer in the socials comments. Not everybody can…

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stone dial Omega Seamaster 05.11.2019

Mineral wealth with the stone dial Omega Seamaster

Exotic stone dials have always been popular with watch collectors, not only for their stunning beauty but also their typical rarity and the unique patterning from stone to stone. This same dial technique has been used in the two examples of stone dial Omega Seamaster 300s, a classic dive watch that is typically considered to be an under-the-radar daily wear watch – until you make the case in precious metal and the dial out of a semi-precious stone. Both the Omega Seamaster 300 with a lapis lazuli dial and a malachite dial express a kind of opulent excess that is…

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas 04.11.2019

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Editor's note: A couple of years ago, Andrew and the team were lucky enough to travel to Lord Howe Island to explore the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection and, in the process, enjoy the unbelievable scenery of volcanic spires and fish-filled shallows. While the setting was one of the most remarkable on earth, the focus was on one of the most remarkable brands on earth with a collection of watches that boast the Geneva Seal in a very sporty package. Enjoy the video! We gave a glimpse of our 48 hours in paradise with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection a month…

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breguet marine collection 04.11.2019

VIDEO: The Breguet Marine Collection

Earlier this year, Time+Tide celebrated the arrival of the 2019 Breguet collection in Australia. For those who attended, it was a night nobody would forget in a hurry, in part due to the impeccable setting, but mainly thanks to the sensational watches that were on display. Of these sensational watches, the real hero of the evening was the Breguet Marine Collection, which has a number of new additions to the family this year. In this collection, the thoughtful use of materials is immediately obvious. The titanium cases and bracelets of the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 and of the time-only Marine 5517…

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Blancpain dive watch 03.11.2019

Battle-ready beginnings of the Blancpain dive watch

Editor's note: Blancpain have been looking into their rich trove of dive watch archives to great success recently, reviving a number of classics that we have covered here, and here, as well as producing a stunning unique piece for Only Watch 2019 that James took a closer look at. But for those who might be slightly newer to the brand, exactly what makes a Blancpain dive watch so good? Well, a little while ago, Cameron Wong did some digging into exactly that question, and showed how Blancpain helped everyone from military spies to Hollywood actors with their dive watch needs.…

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Phillips Game Changers 03.11.2019

Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers

Later this year, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, are hosting the Game Changers auction, which will be offering some of the most important watches to ever meet the public market, including watches owned by golfer Jack Nicklaus, and actors Marlon Brando and Robert Downey Jr, as well as incredibly rare vintage examples of Patek Philippe, Rolex and LeCoultre. While the full catalogue for the Phillips Game Changers auction has not yet been made public, let's take a closer look at some of the highlights that are likely to get paddles in the air. The Jack Nicklaus' Rolex Day-Date…

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TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition 03.11.2019

Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches

This year we were lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the TAG Heuer Monaco. It was in the last year of the 1960s that the brand (just Heuer at the time) released their iconic watch that was one of the first ever automatic chronographs, and was cemented as a legend when it was seen on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the cinema classic Le Mans. To celebrate this very special watch, in 2019 they have released a series of five TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches (of 169 pieces per watch), with each part of the series representing…

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Bremont H-4 Hercules 02.11.2019

IN-DEPTH: The Bremont H-4 Hercules

The story in a second: The Bremont H-4 Hercules offers a tool watch, which could pair with a dinner jacket, and doesn't lose any Bremont DNA. In any piece of design, there is a source of inspiration that is at least, in part, responsible for the final product that you are looking at. In the case of the Bremont H-4 Hercules, the source of inspiration requires a look back over 70 years into the history books. The year was 1942, and the Second World War was at a peak in the conflict, with fierce battles being fought across land, air…

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Bremont H-4 Hercules 31.10.2019

VIDEO: The mythical Bremont H-4 Hercules

The Twelve Labours of Hercules were impressive, sure, but not quite as impressive as the aircraft that provided inspiration for the new Bremont H-4 Hercules. Killing lions and hydras requires strength and focus, but building a plane in 1947 that makes a modern-day Airbus A380 look small, requires the unbridled ambition and enthusiasm of a Texan billionaire – Howard Hughes. The H-4 Hercules (nicknamed the Spruce Goose thanks to its wooden construction) inspired the most recent limited edition from Bremont that pays respect to the history of the aircraft. Limited to 75 pieces in Rose gold, we were fortunate to…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm 29.10.2019

VIDEO: Graduating with the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm

As the 1960s drew to a close, the Swiss watch industry found itself entering one of the most significant periods of turmoil it would ever experience. Its response to the accurate and affordable watches coming out of Asia was not to compete in a race to the bottom — instead, the Swiss took the high road, and doubled down on the fact that watches would remain status objects even in the face of cheaper, practical quartz versions. The largest manufacturers in the world began producing luxury sports watches for the first time, and in the process they eschewed precious metals,…

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Omega Trésor 24.10.2019

VIDEO: A closer look at the Omega Trésor

Earlier this week, Felix took a closer look at a watch that has to be a frontrunner for nicest dress watch of the year, the blue dial Omega Trésor. While it's certainly a good-looking watch, there are two other members of the Trésor family that might even beat it to the punch. The Omega Trésor has also been released in a yellow gold case, and a steel case with a diamond bezel, both with the same svelte case shape. Each piece brings its own character to the table, but these two options offer a little bit of something extra, with the…

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Longines Heritage Classic "Sector Dial" 21.10.2019

6 of the best sector dial watches

As brands continue to successfully look to the past as they design watches for the present, a number of stylistic elements from as far back as the 1930s can be seen in modern watches. One of these anachronisms is the sector dial, an attractive layout of the dial that is typically defined by closed concentric circles that segment the dial. In this layout, there is a sense of order and control that comes from the portioned spaces of the dial, which remind a little of the structured designs of Art Deco, blended with the minimalism of the Bauhaus movement. As…

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Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection 19.10.2019

VIDEO: Mid-Century Magic with the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection

There was a lot going on in the middle of the 1960s. The space race was in full swing, the Australian dollar was introduced, and the launch of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection. This collection was launched alongside a number of other projects that Girard-Perregaux were working on, including being aggressively competitive in the Neuchâtel Observatory chronometry trials, and producing the first watch movement to beat at 10 beats per second or 36,000 times an hour. Today, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection lives on as cleanly sophisticated dress watches that have their designs rooted in the middle of last century, with movement…

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double signed dials 18.10.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials

In their upcoming auction, Phillips is focusing their attention on the finest examples of highly coveted double-signed dials. A double-signed dial is where a brand has allowed the name of the retailer that will sell the watch to appear on the dial, alongside the brand's name. Retailers that have had the opportunity to showcase their name on a watch dial include some of the most famous throughout history, including Tiffany & Co, Harrods, Wempe, Gübelin and Beyer. As a part of their authentication process, Phillips will attempt to contact each of the respective retailers (if they are still trading) to…

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Longines Heritage Classic "Sector Dial" 14.10.2019

INTRODUCING: Longines Heritage Classic with "Sector Dial"

Amidst the morass of vintage reissues that almost all brands seem to have tried their hand at recently, Longines has been successfully combing their archives for the best examples that translate to current tastes, and have done so with good success in recent years. Even in the context of their well-executed reissues of military, chronograph and diving watches of their past, their latest dip into the history books has to be one of their best, as well as one of the nicest looking watches of 2019. I would like to introduce you to the Longines Heritage Classic with a "Sector…

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Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50thAnniversary SRQ029J 13.10.2019

Celebrating half a century with the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J

Fifty years ago, Seiko released one of the first ever automatic chronograph movements in a watershed moment in watchmaking. To mark the occasion, Seiko has released the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J, a watch that smartly dances the line between heritage and modern. We got a chance to take a closer look at the new anniversary piece, with all the details in the video below. If you love sporty chronographs that have a historically significant place in the history of watchmaking then this could be the piece for you. It's well-sized at 41mm in diameter, features a movement with…

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Cartier Santos-Dumont 09.10.2019

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance

Cartier is a brand that doesn't reinvent the wheel, but instead gradually evolves their designs over decades, refining and purifying their core look with each year that goes by. For their latest collection, released at SIHH 2019, the focus was the Cartier Santos-Dumont, a dress watch that is both classically sized and slim, offering one of the most refined pieces of Cartier design we have seen in recent years. The new Cartier Santos-Dumont is available in two sizes (38mm x 27.5mm for the small model, and 43.5mm x 31.4mm for the large model) and both have managed to stay rakishly…

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition 07.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms looks like a lot of other watches out there, and there's a reason for that. The Fifty Fathoms was first. It was one of the first watches ever designed for diving and, as a result, has become almost the Universal Man of dive watches, where all watches that follow are derivative. Within the Fifty Fathoms family, there are many variations, but one of the most eye-catching of them all has inspired the reissue of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition. Originally, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was designed for French navy divers known as Nageurs de…

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Chopard Alpine Eagle 01.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a watch that has roots in the 1980s when their St. Moritz model was released. It was during a period when the stainless steel luxury sports watch boom was in full swing. Case in point, between 1980 and 1995, the St. Moritz model alone sold 50,000 pieces. Now, the St. Moritz has been reimagined with a contemporary flavour in terms of its design, as well as a number of technical developments that make the Chopard Alpine Eagle a genuine luxury wristwatch and reflect Chopard's endeavour to "treat steel as if it were gold". Also, the…

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Franck Muller in Melbourne 30.09.2019

EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne

The Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours landed in Melbourne last week, and not only was I fortunate to take a closer look at it, but the kind people at Franck Muller invited me to celebrate it with them at a dining event with some of their important local clients. It was a great opportunity to view the new collection, as well as share a meal with a group of like-minded watch enthusiasts. There were some special people seated around the dining table, including Franck Muller's global COO, Nicholas Rudaz, and Franck Muller's General Manager of Australia, Mr Heng, both of…

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Best 5 watches for under $5k 27.09.2019

Best 5 watches for under $5K at the Sotheby's Important Watches auction

At the upcoming Sotheby's Important Watches auction, you can browse the catalogue and find all manner of incredibly rare and important watches and clocks from all the best watchmakers in the world. There is everything you would expect, and more, including a possibly unique red dial Rolex Daytona, a factory gem-set yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master, a Rolex "Paul Newman" Daytona, and a Patek Philippe chronometer tested tourbillon pocket watch, all of which serve to make the Patek Philippe 5711 on offer look rather dull. But unless you're so wealthy that the Panama Papers were of personal concern to you, almost…

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Vanguard Crazy Hours 26.09.2019

INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive

In what is a meeting of two of the most significant collections from the Franck Muller manufacture, the Vanguard Crazy Hours is an exciting offering, made even more exciting with the news of an exclusive collection for Asia. The Vanguard Crazy Hours is the first time the brand has housed the famous Crazy Hours movement inside a Vanguard case shape, offering a feel that is more sporty and relaxed, to a caliber that inspires a more leisurely approach to time telling. It achieves this with a dial layout that is less than conventional, where the hour marker numerals are out of…

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Haven Watch Co. Chilton 21.09.2019

HANDS-ON: The Haven Watch Co. Chilton

In an unending stream of vintage-inspired wristwatches that are just a little bit off (you know what I mean), you cling to a watch that gets it right like a life raft. The Haven Watch Co. Chilton is exactly that life-saving device, with it tastefully sized at 37mm, and offering a visually compelling dial. Taking inspiration from the colourful yachting chronographs of the '70s, the Chilton has the details considered. The chronograph is available in two different dial colours, which are a creamy white or a deep midnight blue, both of which feature contrasting sub-dials in a compax layout. We…

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Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects division 17.09.2019

Looking at the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division

If you decided to buy a Bremont watch, you could go to your nearest Bremont boutique (or their online store) and buy almost any model in their catalogue that your heart desired. What you can't buy, however, are any of the pieces from the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division. These pieces are created specifically for elite military units around the world, produced with bespoke features, but all based on models in the core Bremont range. While these watches are typically created in collaboration with units from the US or British air forces and navies, Bremont has also produced…

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IWC Ingenieur AMG edition 08.09.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Zak M and his IWC Ingenieur AMG edition

While collaborations between watch brands and car manufacturers are not a new phenomenon, it's a much rarer phenomenon to meet a person who owns both the watch and its corresponding car. Once Zak had purchased his Mercedes AMG, he knew he needed to own the IWC Ingenieur AMG edition IW3725,  a watch that is cool beyond its automotive inspiration. When did you first see/hear about it? I heard about it a few years ago, but I didn't like it because of the curves in the case design. It eventually grew on me, and I was planning on saving up for…

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Bell & Ross BR05 05.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Bell & Ross BR05

For any brand creating a new collection, the challenge lies in the tension between aesthetic innovation and consistent design language. With the new Bell & Ross BR05, the brand has successfully maintained their core visual identity with a circular dial and squared-off case, exposed screws at the corners of the case, and bold Arabic numerals. The innovation begins most prominently with the integrated bracelet directly into the case, which is a departure from the more traditional Bell & Ross look. The softened curves of the polished bezel contrast sharply with the angles of the brushed steel lugs, creating visual depth…

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warehouse watch grey market 02.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch grey market isn't black and white

If you've ever looked to buy a watch on the internet, you will have invariably come across grey market watch websites offering a surprisingly good deal on the watch you are interested in. This leads to several questions about the broader mechanics of watch retail, and the watch grey market: Why would I buy from an Authorised Dealer if this is so much cheaper? How do these sites get the watches they are selling? Why do watch brands allow themselves to be undercut on price? All of these are fair questions; the answers of which are often challenging to find.…

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Omega Speedmaster Mark II ‘Rio 2016’ 02.09.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Travis Mahoney's Omega Speedmaster Mark II 'Rio 2016'

Representing your country at the Olympic Games is the dream of just about every kid who grows up doing a sport, especially Australian kids and swimming. The likes of Ian Thorpe, Grant Hackett and Michael Klim did wonders to boost the popularity of the sport in the Land Down Under, producing a fresh crop of talented young swimmers, including Travis Mahoney. Travis represented Australia at the Rio Olympics where he competed in the 400m Individual Medley, and commemorated his achievement with the acquisition of an Omega Speedmaster Mark II 'Rio 2016'. When did you first see/hear about it? I actually…

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Bob Hawke's Estate Auction 31.08.2019

We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke's estate auction, this is what happened

Bob Hawke's estate auction offered a chance to reflect on a man known equally well for his capacity to skol a pint of beer in record time (he broke a beer drinking Guinness World Record in 1954) and being a past Prime Minister of Australia. The auction took place in a venue that could only be described as aptly representative of our country's cross-sectional majority – an RSL in inner Sydney. It was an appropriate venue to celebrate the collected objects of one of Australia's most fondly remembered leaders, as it grounded you in a sense of not taking it…

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Panerai 177 25.08.2019

What Sealed The Deal – John J and his Panerai 177

The greatest love stories basically go a little like this: lovers meet and instantly fall for each other, other forces separate them and they may never be together, then the lovers are reunited and all is well in the universe. This is also the basic story of John and his Panerai 177, which should indicate the depths of his passion for this particular watch. When did you first see/hear about it? A couple of years ago, I had a Panerai 176, which is a very similar model to this one, but without the hacking seconds. I loved it, but I…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date 25.08.2019

INTRODUCING: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date limited edition

The Polaris collection was launched by Jaeger-LeCoultre last year to pay tribute to the dive watches produced by the brand in the '60s and '70s. Instantly recognisable with the super-compressor style case and internal bezel, the Polaris has been given a new look in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date. What makes this new edition different can be seen immediately in the dial, with a blend of finishes and shades of blue that place it at home in the water. The dial has three separate sections: the centre featuring a sun-rayed finish that looks almost liquid in its shimmer, which heavily contrasts…

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F.P. Journe 21.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Here's an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know

F.P. Journe is an interesting case in the expanding landscape of independent watchmaking. For a watchmaker that produces around 900 pieces per year, the brand is seen in all the right places, regularly winning prizes at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, and producing a watch for the Only Watch charity auction for its last three editions. But what can be a little confusing is just how the brand structures its collections – for that, here's an introduction to F.P. Journe. Watches from F.P. Journe can basically be broken down into three collections: the Souveraine Collection, the Octa Collection and…

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breitlign transocean 21.08.2019

"The watch that started it all for me" – Jean-Paul's Breitling Transocean

There's always one that started it all. The first taste that starts the passion. Like the first dunk that lit the flame in Jordan's heart. The first moment Phelps touched the end of a pool and knew he loved to win. Or the first piece in your collection that opened your eyes to the variety and complexity involved in the pursuit of good watches. For Jean-Paul, this was his first. A stunning Breitling Transocean ref. 1461 semi-perpetual calendar, that he picked up on his honeymoon in New York City. After four visits to the Wempe boutique, he decided to pull…

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Brad Pitt's watch 21.08.2019

What was Brad Pitt's watch in the latest Tarantino thriller?

Last night I went to see the new Quentin Tarantino film, Once Upon A Time In Hollywood, and while plot tension and A-grade acting kept me on the edge of my seat, I was kept guessing by what Brad Pitt's character was wearing on his wrist. So what was Brad Pitt's watch? As the movie progressed, I could tell it was a gold watch, worn on a bund strap, and it was a chronograph of some kind in a bullhead configuration (with the pushers at the top of the watch). But the brand escaped me. Was it a Seiko? A…

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two-tone watch 20.08.2019

Two-tone watch anxiety? Here's your solution

Editor's note: The two-tone watch seems to be having a resurgence of late, especially in the design studio of Tudor. While we first saw this in a subdued black dial Tudor S&G, the following year they gave us a champagne dial, and this year a two-tone chronograph on a bund strap no less. But two-tone watches aren't always easy to pull off, with the spectre of the '80s looming large in the peripheries of people's minds. To help you reconcile your desire to buy a two-tone watch, and your discomfort with Wall Street stereotypes, we have created a handy guide…

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Zaratsu polishing 19.08.2019

What is Zaratsu polishing? Its origins are less Japanese than you think

Seiko and its Grand sibling are well known for their technical skill in case finishing. This style of highly reflective polishing was first introduced into the Seiko family by watch designer Taro Tanaka, who came into the Japanese company to produce a holistic design language that was called "The Grammar of Design". One of the main tenants of this design language was for all of the flat surfaces of the watch case and hands to be polished to a mirror finish using a method called Zaratsu polishing. By maximising the interaction of the light with the flat surfaces of the…

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The problem with the GPHG 19.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The problem with the GPHG

First uncovered in the tomb of a 17th century Genevan clockmaker, the words which are now passed into lore: "Every time someone says the GPHG is the Oscars of the watch world, a bunny dies." So as to avoid the death of any more happy hoppers, I'll describe the GPHG as the biggest prize in watches each year. In saying that, there's a problem with the GPHG. While the GPHG is the biggest prize to be won, the competition is, as Felix eloquently put, "notably free of crowns and calatravas", bringing the elephant at the GPHG clearly into view. Some brands…

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18.08.2019

11 reasons MB&F are important for all watch lovers

Editor's note: The darling of the independent watch space, MB&F show no signs of slowing their release of weird and wonderful watches. Timepieces that often elicit a confused reception at first glance, MB&F clocks and watches become more delightful the longer you look at them, as you realise the playfulness at the heart of their designs. Let's take another look at why the brand matters, even if you aren't likely to become a customer. Recently we were invited to Sydney as guests of The Hour Glass for the hotly anticipated launch of MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) Horological Machine 6,…

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Breitling Triathlon Squad 17.08.2019

Why does the Breitling Triathlon Squad exist?

Watch companies are pretty happy to jump on board as sponsors of all number of sporting teams, including Formula 1, boxing or tennis, for the obvious reasons that they have massive viewerships and highly engaged fans. One sport that definitely isn't structured as a spectator-friendly sport is triathlon, begging the question as to why the Breitling Triathlon Squad exists. In the couple of years since current CEO Georges Kern took the helm of the company, Breitling has been gathering "squads" of notable people in trios of ambassadors. You might have heard of #squadonamission if you've ever visited the Breitling website,…

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TAG Heuer in Melbourne Event 16.08.2019

EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne

TAG Heuer is a brand that has always sat fondly in the hearts of Australians, with shared values of an active lifestyle spent outdoors. This week we were lucky enough to celebrate the launch of TAG Heuer's latest novelties, including the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph and the exciting Autavia Isograph. Both releases are significant because of the technology housed in them, which the crowd was fortunate enough to get a very close look at under the guidance of the TAG Heuer Master Watchmaker Shalen Gokoolparsadh.  Hosted at TAG Heuer's flagship boutique in Melbourne, a strong crowd gathered out…

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Doxa Sub 200 T.GRAPH Stainless Steel Limited Edition 16.08.2019

INTRODUCING: Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel Limited Edition

At Baselworld 2019, Doxa delivered a campaign of shock and awe with the release of a solid gold SUB 200 T.Graph that left Felix in the firm belief that the world was a better place for its existence. Today they have announced another SUB 200 T.Graph limited edition, this time in stainless steel, making it a much more affordable option than the circa AUD $100K the gold piece was asking. What makes the Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph stainless steel limited edition special is the historic Valjoux 7734 chronograph movement that Doxa have used. Stored by Doxa for decades, the brand…

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expensive watches 15.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Do expensive watches make you risky with money?

The upper echelons of the investment banking world are inhabited by people who are paid large sums of money to take risks. Some working within the hallowed halls of serious finance prefer lower-risk investments, and others enjoy the thrill of having a larger appetite for risky business. If you want to know how safe your money will be, you need to know how prone your investment manager is to seeking the thrill of a dangerous deal, so what if you could do that by looking at their wrist? In a post earlier this year by WatchRant, a collection of reviews…

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citizen chronomaster 15.08.2019

Accurate AF – the Citizen Chronomaster limited editions

This year, Citizen got the watch world talking about quartz watches in a positive light with the release of the Caliber 0100, the wristwatch version of a piece-unique pocket watch they released in 2018. This release seemed to take some by surprise, but Citizen, just like their countrymen at Seiko, have been making very accurate quartz watches for some time. A flagship model in their collection is the Citizen Chronomaster, a watch that has just been released in new limited edition dial colours.   The Citizen Chronomaster is now available with a regular production blue dial, as well as both…

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Must De Cartier Tank 15.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so

Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the '70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, becoming the Chairman of Cartier in 2000. Besides his developed business acumen, Franco Cologni also has a developed handle on the English language, expressing opinions eloquently in the journal of the FHH, where he is also President of the FHH Cultural Council. In one recent…

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Bau Swatch 14.08.2019

In the Haus with the new Bau Swatch Collection

To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the Bauhaus design movement, Swatch have released the Bau Swatch Collection of 25 new watches inspired by the pre-WWII German school of design. The Bauhaus design philosophy has had significant impact on a number of watch designs over the years, including from Patek Philippe, Nomos and Stowa. Now Swatch have joined the fray, with an appropriately designed collection that celebrates the different elements of the design school's ideas. If you're interested in browsing the entire 25-watch collection, you're able to visit them at the Swatch site, but before you do, these are our highlights.…

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auctionlytics 13.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Does the collectible watch change over time?

If you've been reading what I've been reading over the last couple of weeks, you'll have noticed I'm particularly interested in how the primary and secondary watch markets interact with each other, and what that looks like in specific contexts like an auction room. All that leads to is a question: does the collectible watch change over time? One Instagram account I've been following with great interest for a little while is @AuctionLytics, a page that tracks the watch auction market and shares their data-driven insights with followers. They also share longer-form insights on their blog, and while they've been…

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Longines connection to horse racing 13.08.2019

Why is Longines' connection to horse racing so strong?

Editor's note: In the run-up to the horse racing season in Australia, we thought we'd have a look at a brand with a long history in the world of horse racing. Andrew had the opportunity to sit down with the then-VP of Longines Juan-Carlos Capelli to get to the bottom of Longines' connection to horse racing, which was established more than one hundred years ago. Earlier this year, we interviewed the Vice President of Longines in the hours before the Queen Elizabeth Stakes horse race at Royal Randwick in Sydney. In the polite small-talk before the interview, we asked Mr…

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Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 13.08.2019

Un-GPHG 2019 – the watches we wish would win

Every year the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) provides a point of interest for the watch community. Long after the hype of SIHH and Baselworld has died down, it's a chance to catch our breath, look back at the year that was, and assess how many good watches were made in the preceding 12 months. The entrants for 2019 were recently released, with 150 different watches across 14 categories, all self-nominating as the best in their class. As per tradition, a good portion of the watch media (including us) offers predictions on those that will be successful that year,…

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Serica W.W.W 12.08.2019

INTRODUCING: The very versatile Serica W.W.W.

Watch collectors will listen, wide-eyed and slack-jawed, to stories about grandfathers in the '60s wearing a Daytona while changing the oil in an engine, only giving the watch a quick wipe with a rag before dinner was served. This is so far from the present-day reality that a watch that was once a functional nice-to-have is now being traded by people who went to finance school. What happened to the everyday watch? This was the question posed by a quartet of men who couldn't find a good-looking watch that didn't cause the heart rate to rise when nearing a doorknob.…

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Patek Philippe Ref 2526 12.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this the perfect Patek Philippe?

Patek Philippe are not known for hi-tech carbon composite case materials, skeleton dials, or really any enthusiastic contemporary flair. What they are known for is being the priest of the Temple of Classicism, considered and purposeful in any direction of development, refusing to bend to ephemeral market tastes. The clearest way this can be seen is how little the design DNA (yes, I know you think that term is overused, GaryG) of their watches has changed over the last century. This lack of dramatic change forces those interested into the trenches of granularity to ascertain the importance of any particular…

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Melbourne Rolex Service Center 12.08.2019

Finding satisfaction at the Melbourne Rolex Service Centre

Editor's note: A couple of years ago, life got a lot easier for the Melbourne Rolex collector. Rolex Australia blessed the coffee-obsessed city with a shiny new service centre, a move that made the already appealing prospect of buying a Rolex even more appealing, with the knowledge that a repair would be as pain-free as possible. Let's take a look back at when Felix got to visit the centre shortly after it opened. One of the biggest issues in this industry is what happens to a watch long after it leaves the boutique on the wrist of its happy new…

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Australian Watch Forum 12.08.2019

The Australian Watch Forum's first collaboration watch

Editor's note: The Australian Watch Forum has gone from strength to strength over the last 18 months, tripling its membership to 9000 members. Based on Facebook, their presence has been felt well outside of social media, with regular meet-ups and get-togethers in major cities across Australia. Here's a throwback to Cam's nod to their first venture with a big watch brand, when they partnered with Zenith last year to release a bronzed-case Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, featuring a special Southern Cross on the dial. During a time when planes were more fabric than steel, and I'm sure the phrase…

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Doxa Telemetre Watch Luxury 11.08.2019

The Doxa Chronograph – as good as their divers?

Editor's note: Everyone knows Doxa make a great dive watch, but not as many people know they also produced excellent chronographs in the 1940s and '50s. This is the story of one of those watches, a black dial Doxa chronograph with a spiral telemeter scale, worth significantly more than the €1200 Paul originally laid down for it. Enjoy. WHAT IS THE STORY OF THIS WATCH? I bought it at the Munich Watch Fair a few years back for 1200 euro. I've since been offered 5000 euro for it. I've collected watches since I was 11. My grandfather gave me a…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato 11.08.2019

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm, a sleeper in steel

Editor's note: In the world of luxury steel sports watches, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato family is underrated. More than two centuries since they started making watches, the Laureato is made by a brand that has some of the richest history in horology. In that time, Girard-Perregaux have added significantly to the art of mechanical watchmaking, with their three golden bridges tourbillon movement and their design of the first high-frequency watch which beats ten times per second. The Laureato family is also dripping in a '70s charm that stems from the mix of curves and angles, and the blending of polished and brushed…

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Patek Philippe Calatrava 11.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Everything you didn't know about the Patek Philippe Calatrava

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is probably the most recognisable time-only collection of watches in Swiss watchmaking. Simple, three-handed watches made in precious metal that represent what Patek Philippe is about in its most distilled form – restrained classicism made to exacting standards. In this article by The Hour Glass, the history of the Calatrava is investigated, focusing on the most important models made in the nearly 90 years since the first reference was produced. Even though the core elements of the Calatrava have stayed the same, the number of variations over the years has seen the establishment of collectors-inspired scholarship…

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Sotheby's Australia 10.08.2019

I went to my first watch auction, here's what I found

I was equal parts excited and curious when a package from Sotheby's Australia landed on Felix's desk last month. Upon opening, it revealed a catalogue for their upcoming Important Jewels auction, and while the jewellery portion of the catalogue was full of fabulous gems and precious metals, I was obviously much more interested in the wristwatches on offer. While reading the catalogue I noticed that despite watch lots being comparatively few in number, there were several great pieces, including representation from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and Heuer. One of the rarer pieces heading for the block was a Heuer Autavia…

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What do collectors really look for 08.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: What do collectors really look for?

What do collectors really look for when they are already at the top of the watch game? Rarity? Provenance? Complexity? All are true for different collectors, with some placing value on the design of a timepiece, and others on condition. This variety is what keeps it interesting in the stratospheric peaks of the collecting world, where money is no object and the hunt is the source of the thrill. For collector Leon Botstein, president of Bard College and orchestra conductor, his interest lies in both pocket watches and wristwatches that were produced without the aid of computers. He describes his…

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08.08.2019

The Seiko 5 is alive – again

For decades, the Seiko 5 collection has been some of the best-value mechanical watchmaking on the planet. The ability to buy an automatic watch with an in-house movement for only a few hundred dollars must be responsible for introducing tens of thousands of people around the world to watches. You would be hard-pressed to find many watch collectors out there who haven't owned a Seiko 5 at one point in their collecting journey. And while many of the big Swiss brands would hate to admit it, the watch industry is a much better place for the existence of the Seiko…

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IWC Big Pilot 08.08.2019

The IWC Big Pilot flying higher than ever

Editor's note: Ergonomics have always been at the forefront of design for the IWC Big Pilot, with the large legible dial and oversized onion crown perfect for low-light cockpit conditions, and use with flight gloves. Despite this, it was a significant move when IWC took the design to a new place, with the Big Pilot Edition 'Right-Hander'. It now features the crown on the left-hand side of the case, to avoid uncomfortable digging into the back of the hand or wrist. While we are still digesting this design update, we wanted to look back at the Big Pilot that started…

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Patek Philippe ref. 1518 Alfredo Paramico 07.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Alfredo Paramico on the vintage watch market

Alfredo Paramico doesn't look like a watch collector. Living in Miami Beach, he looks more like an action hero, tanned like Baywatch and ripped like Schwarzenegger, and clad from head to toe in the latest designer capsules. However, in spite of this initial Wooster-esque impression, he is in fact one of the most well-known collectors of vintage watches in the world. A former merchant banker turned investor and watch dealer, he has amassed a collection worth an estimated $25 million. An offshoot of his own collecting behaviour is Elite Advisers, an investment fund devoted to collectible watches that are expected…

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Lange 1 06.08.2019

Lange 1 – an expression of balance and refinement

Editor's note: In 1994, A. Lange & Söhne released a watch that would go on to be one of their most recognisable designs to date. The Lange 1 is an expression of what the brand does best: manufacturing a dial layout that is less than traditional, but with a tension in its design that suggests it is the product of decades of refinement. A masterful balance of introducing new ideas while using a level of refinement that implies rich history. Let's take another look at this example of poised asymmetry. The story in a second: Lange give their icon a…

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Sinn 104 St Sa I W 06.08.2019

Cockpit to couch, the Sinn 104 St Sa I W

Editor's note: Sinn is a brand that is about the best in the business when it comes to nailing affordable profession-specific watches, the most obvious of which are divers and pilots. The common denominator for both jobs is a requirement for tools that are unwaveringly reliable in their performance. This is something that Sinn are renowned for, in their ability to produce watches that are incredibly hard-wearing, made from materials that have lifespans beyond that of their owners. Let's take a look back at one such pilot's watch, the Sinn 104 St Sa I W. Famous for their formidable and…

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Watch Art Grand Exhibition 06.08.2019

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore

In its fifth iteration, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition will be hosted in Singapore for the first time. Placed to emphasise the importance of Southeast Asian clients and collectors for Patek Philippe, the show will offer public insight to a number of the artefacts that typically remain in Geneva at the Patek Philippe Museum. The show will also launch a series of rare handcrafts and special-edition watches inspired by the artistic expression of the region. The show will be hosted free of charge in an 1800-square metre space at the Marina Bay Sands Theatre in Singapore, divided into…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 05.08.2019

Looking through Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

Editor's note: Make no bones about it, skeleton watches are not to everyone's taste. Legibility is sometimes less clear than a watch with a solid dial, but this is because time telling is almost ancillary to the stunning exposé that the watch offers. A skeleton dial offers a view typically reserved for a watchmaker in search of a problem, with any warmth offered by the layperson's intrigue, evaporated under the cool white lights of a workbench. So let's take another look at one of the best-looking skeleton dials out there. One of the finest open-worked watches on the market right…

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A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date 05.08.2019

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date – the digital watch with no battery

When you think digital watch, the first thing that comes to mind might be a Casio, with a clear digital display, a couple of functions and a light. You don't think mechanical watch, and you certainly don't imagine a watch that has its place in the upper echelons of haute horology. But this is exactly what you get with the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date, a watch with a clear digital display, and now with an additional function. First released in 2009, the Zeitwerk was a new way to communicate time with a mechanical wristwatch, employing a pair of…

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Edouard Meylan 04.08.2019

Why Edouard Meylan sells watches smarter

Editor's note: Many executives in the Swiss watch industry are boring. They went to finance school, and they sell watches by looking at a balance sheet, never finding any of the watches in their own catalogue inspiring, and therefore never inspiring anyone to buy one. This could not be further from the truth for Edouard Meylan, the CEO of H. Moser & Cie. In this interview he gives a crash course on start-up marketing in the watch world (where interesting strategies have come to life recently), and discusses why he was once waiting for legal letters from Apple. It's both…

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why are there jewels in a watch 04.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why are there jewels in a watch?

Jewels are typically things you imagine adorning lavishly dressed socialites, or existing in piles that form the sleeping places of greedy dragons, so why are they so important in watchmaking? The reason is not frequently talked about, despite the number of jewels in a movement being communicated as a standard piece of mechanical information, and generally an indication of the quality of the movement. But it still begs the question: why are there jewels in a watch? As they discuss, the main reason for them is not decorative, but the properties of their synthetic mineral hardness. Apart from diamond, rubies…

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03.08.2019

Keeping tradition alive at the Cartier Métiers d'Art

Editor's note: Why is this unassuming looking farmhouse in the Swiss countryside so important to a brand as large as Cartier? Because it houses the workshop for Cartier's Maison des Métiers d'Art, sanctuary to a set of artistic skills and techniques that are hundreds of years old. It is in this farmhouse that some of the most skilled craftspeople in the world are tasked with painstakingly producing the high-jewellery part of Cartier's collection. Cartier's Maison des Métiers d'Art It is impossible to overstate the importance of tradition to the Swiss watch industry. It's a business, after all, built on skills…

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03.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising?

If you love watches, you probably want to wear them all the time. The past CEO of The Swatch Group Nicolas Hayek was famous for wearing half-a-dozen watches at one time, and even if you aren't quite that eccentric, you might still feel like you're missing something when you don't wear a watch. But this begs the question, should you wear a watch when exercising? There are no hard and fast rules about mechanical watches and exercising, other than personal comfort, and potential damage to the watch. If you are comfortable wearing a watch while you exert yourself, and aren't…

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Tudor in Australia 02.08.2019

Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here's why

Editor's note: Not many know it, but Australia was one of the most important markets for Hans Wilsdorf as he built the businesses of Rolex and Tudor in the early part of the 20th century. Tudor watches have been in Australia for the best part of 100 years, proving that Australians know great value when they see it — value the brand continues to offer today. While our American and English cousins have only recently rediscovered the joys of Tudor watches (relaunching in the American market in 2013 and the UK in 2014), Australia can stand proud in the knowledge that…

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Gerald Genta 02.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Gérald Genta archives

If you're reading this, you probably know who Gérald Genta is, and if you don't, you probably recognise the name. He was the most prolific watch designer of the 20th century, having been the source of inspiration for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Omega Constellation. He designed for everyone, from Universal Genève and IWC, to Cartier and Bulgari, leaving his fingerprints on the majority of the most loved watches in production today. Considering his level of impact, it is exciting when more detail is uncovered about the artist's life, which has happened through the…

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Omega factory 30.07.2019

BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses

The Swatch Group have published their 2019 Half-Year Report, revealing some interesting information. The group has reported an increase in their inventory levels, which include components, movements and watches, to a total of 7.1 billion Swiss francs (up 2.6 per cent from 2018). More broadly, the group, which owns brands such as Tissot, Longines and Omega, has reported a 3.7 per cent dip in sales compared to the previous year, attributing a portion of this negative result to efforts against the grey market, which undercut their retail channels by selling watches at heavily reduced prices.   Swatch Group have taken…

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Top 3 watches that could save your life 30.07.2019

Call of Duty need to add these watches to their next game

The new Call of Duty trailer was dropped last week, and it featured an interesting horological detail that was noticed by one eagle-eyed Reddit user. As discussed in an article by Kotaku, the time displayed on the wrists of the game characters will read the local time of the person playing, adding a very cool in-game detail. While here at Time+Tide we are less concerned with the "grave ludonarrative consequences" (yes, I had to look up what ludonarrative meant) and more interested in how this could add another way for players to customise their characters. So while we don't anticipate…

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yellow gold Rolex Day-Date 30.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is the yellow gold Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous?

In the past, owning a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date meant something different to what it does now. It was the President's watch, worn by those who controlled the destinies of millions around the world, making daily decisions that mattered. Now the perception of the Day-Date is influenced by rappers and Instagram hustlers, offering an ostentatious feeling that hints at missing parental attention during formative childhood years. Sean makes a strong argument to change this with his Love Letter to the Rolex Day-Date. While he acknowledges this unfortunate shift in perception through some contemporary wearers, he focuses our attention on the…

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Grand Seiko SBGN007 29.07.2019

MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Grand Seiko SBGN007

When most watch collectors hear the word quartz they think cheap, mass-produced and soulless. If a watch isn't mechanical, it isn't worth talking about, thinking about, and definitely not buying, which are sentiments I broadly agree with. As I wrote here, mechanical watches have a combination of nostalgic charm and independent reliability that I love alongside thousands of watch enthusiasts around the world. So why then did I buy a quartz watch that costs the same as some mechanical Swiss watches? Let me explain why I bought the Grand Seiko SBGN007, and how I feel about the purchase six months…

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Bulgari Roma 1975 28.07.2019

The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch

Editor's note: This year, the Bulgari watch department celebrated its fifth year in a row of record-breaking watches with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. While some in the watch industry are still coming to terms with the horological success of a brand with roots in jewellery, Bulgari have actually been making watches since 1975. A couple of years ago, Andrew had the opportunity to see the first ever watch from the brand, the Bulgari Roma, when it was on display at the Tokyo National Museum. He captured his impressions at the time, and told the legend of why it…

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chrono24 28.07.2019

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market

There are a lot of great podcasts out there on the world of watches, but the guys over at Worn & Wound do a particularly good job. One of the things they are great at is finding interesting people to speak with, which they did when they interviewed Tim Stracke, the C0-CEO and Founder of Chrono24, an online watch marketplace. Chrono24 has been growing significantly over the last few years, and in 2018 the total value of transactions that originated from the site increased by 30 per cent to €1.3 billion. The platform is also leveraging the huge amount of…

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Sotheby's Australia Important Jewels Auction 28.07.2019

T+T Highlights: Sotheby's Australia Important Jewels Auction

Next month, Sotheby's Australia are hosting their Important Jewels Auction in Melbourne, with a catalogue that includes a small collection of watches. The focus of the offering is obviously heavily on jewellery, however it is great to see a large local auction house include a few interesting watches, too. After passing the catalogue around the office this morning, there are a couple of standout pieces that were T+T team favourites. Felix (Editor) – HEUER AUTAVIA AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH "JO SIFFERT" The classic, cushiony case and panda dial with just the right amount of pop. The motor sports legacy doesn't hurt either.…

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5 most unattainable watches 27.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn?

Much has been written about the growth of the pre-owned watch market in recent years, but just how long has this been happening, and will watches hold their value during a recession? With consecutive seasons of watch auctions breaking all-time records, luxury conglomerate Richemont spending an estimated €200m to acquire second-hand dealer Watchfinder & Co just over 12 months ago, and brands such as Audemars Piguet announcing their intention to sell their own pre-owned watches, there is a current land-grab for control over the lucrative pre-owned market. Beyond specific pre-owned markets, something is happening in the retail watch market too,…

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Rolex-Metorite-GMT 26.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rare rocks? The truth about Rolex meteorite dials

It isn't every day you look out the window and see a meteor shower. In fact, it's a newsworthy event when anyone is lucky enough to catch one on film. So I don't think you would be going out on a limb to say that they are fairly uncommon events, causing you to assume that meteorite is a pretty rare mineral to come by, and it must be very expensive. How then are so many watch companies producing timepieces with meteorite dials? One of the most talked about watches from Baselworld 2019 was a white gold Rolex GMT-Master II with…

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25.07.2019

T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender?

Here at Time+Tide HQ, the banter is fast, free-flowing and deeply uninteresting for anyone who doesn't love watches. Sometimes this spitballing makes it beyond our four humble walls, such as when the team built a fantasy $20K watch collection, and this is another one of those occasions. The question posed to the team this time: "If you had to wear a watch marketed at a different gender, what would it be?" This isn't to say that people can't wear whatever watches they want (I love wearing a watch which could be argued is a women's watch), but is just taking…

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24.07.2019

Counting down why we love the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321

Watch lovers across the planet have been collectively holding their breath this year, eagerly waiting for Omega to release a commemorative watch to celebrate humanity launching away from the planet. It was 50 years ago that American astronauts left the safety of their lunar module and stepped onto the surface of the Moon, with Omega Speedmasters strapped to their wrists. The Moon landings were the most viewed event in human history, with an estimated 650 million people around the world watching Neil Armstrong take a giant leap for mankind. Needless to say, Omega hasn't forgotten its involvement with the mission,…

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Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time 23.07.2019

Why a man of style loves the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time

Editor's note: This is a throwback to the time we chatted to one of the best-looking blokes in Melbourne about his (then) new Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time. As Sam predicted, he didn't think this would be a watch that would look dated as the years passed, and he was right — the classic proportions, the cathedral hands and warmth from the bronze bezel all contribute to a sense of timelessness. The Montblanc 1858 Collection was launched in 2015, and the heritage styling of the family of watches has endured to their latest releases at SIHH 2019, with bronze cues also…

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23.07.2019

Everything you need, nothing you don't – the best two-handed watches of 2018

There comes a time in the journey of every watch collector when the pursuit of the most complicated watch loses its shine, as you start to wonder if there is real meaning to be found by having a ninth tourbillon in your watch. You stop stressing if your chronograph has a vertical clutch, and wonder if you will remember the tide-indicator complication on your watch as you lie on your death bed. To yearn for something simpler, something that just tells you the time is perfectly natural, and surely in part a reason why designs that are classic and timeless…

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23.07.2019

Timelessness of Grand Seiko design language

Editor's note: Being first is important. It awards you the privilege of being looked back on as the original, the source of all that follows you, and an example of the maverick intent that got things started. For Grand Seiko, their prototypical watch was released in 1960, an expression of cleanly refined classicism that established the foundation of the brand as we know it today. Unpretentious, accurate, and a level of finishing that approaches perfection. In 2017 Grand Seiko decided to pay tribute to that first example made in the Suwa Seikosha factory, and produced a steadfast reissue that is…

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rolex day-date 40 22.07.2019

The Rolex Day-Date 40, olive-green goodness

Editor's note: While #BlueWatch Monday has inspired 24,000+ posts on Instagram, I wanted to start the week with a watch in the same chromatic neighbourhood, specifically the Rolex Day-Date 40 with olive green dial. Without a doubt, this has to be one of the best-looking Day-Dates that Rolex has ever produced (yes, I said one of the best, Mirka), with the warmth of the olive green sunburst dial perfectly complementing the radiant Everose gold case and bracelet. The other detail Rolex nailed with this watch is the faceted Roman numerals, which catch and reflect the light in the same way…

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TAG Heuer Monaco blue dial 16.07.2019

The Mighty Monaco, TAG Heuer's CAW211P

Editors's note: If you are reading this, and I were a gambling man, I'd guess you were aware that 2019 is a special year in the world of watches. One of the significant reasons is that TAG Heuer are celebrating the 50th anniversary of the release of the Monaco Chronograph, their angular cult classic. To mark the occasion, TAG Heuer are releasing five limited edition Monaco watches to appropriately commemorate the half-century birthday (three of which have been released so far, here, here and here). So we wanted to look at this interpretation of the classic Monaco, released in 2015. …

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Rolex Daytona Rainbow most exciting chronographs of 2018 15.07.2019

15 of the best gold watches from 2019

Gold watches are looked on a spectrum. This is typically between gaudy expressions of personal wealth, and precious metal celebrations of horological handiwork. Wherever your personal perspective sits on this scale, at some point in your watch-loving life, you will find yourself looking with adoration at a gold watch (Andy wrote how best to deal with this feeling). As John Mayer said once about the Rolex Rainbow Daytona, "When people see (them) in person, they all kind of give in and go, yeah I get it." This (almost guilty) look down at the heavier part of the watch counter led…

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F.P Journe Elégante 48MM Titalyt 13.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why did auctioneer Aurel Bacs buy a modern quartz watch?

If you haven't heard of Aurel Bacs, that is something that needs to change. While the word influencer has been irreparably ruined by people who use Instagram at the beach, it is one of the most fitting words to describe his impact on the global vintage watch market. The founder of the watch department at Phillips, he still runs the business with his wife Livia Russo under the name Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, responsible for a string of records that places him in a league of his own at the rostrum. As you might expect, given he…

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Marlon Brando Rolex GMT front 12.07.2019

Marlon Brando's Apocalypse Now Rolex to be auctioned by Phillips

Marlon Brando's Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675, worn by him on the set of Apocalypse Now, is to be auctioned by Phillips Watches Department. The story was broken by the New York Times, with the provenance of the piece being traced from Brando, who in 1995 gave the watch to his adopted daughter Petra Brando Fischer, who in turn gifted the watch to her husband Russel Fischer as a wedding present in 2003. The Rolex GMT-Master in question is a relatively classic ref. 1675, with a few interesting customisations added by Marlon Brando. While shooting Apocalypse Now, a member of the…

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Sarpaneva Korona K0 Northern Lights lume dial 12.07.2019

6 of the best lume dial watches

A brief history of luminous watch dials Murphy's Law states, "A man with one watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure." In watch collecting circles this is invariably true, but the number of watches in a collection is likely proportionate to the mania of the addiction, rather than proportionate to how punctual the collector might be. It also seems to be true that you need to know what time it is most urgently when you don't have a clock nearby. This seems to happen generally at night, when you wake in a panic,…

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12.07.2019

Mirka Federer and the coolest Rolex Day-Date ever

Editor's note: Is this the coolest Rolex Day-Date ever? Regardless of how you answer that question, this is objectively one of the rarest watches Rolex has manufactured in recent years, with it being conspicuously absent from any Rolex catalogue or website. We spotted Mark Wahlberg wearing one on Ellen, but more excitingly, we also noticed Mirka Federer wearing one at the Australian Open in 2017. Given her husband is currently playing (quite well) at Wimbledon, we thought it might bring him some good luck if we reminded the world just how good Mirka's taste in watches is.  430,000 euros of…

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Longines Heritage Military COSD 11.07.2019

A look back at the Longines Heritage Military COSD

Editor's note: As evidenced by the release of the popular Heritage Military watch, Longines have a long history in manufacturing reliable tool watches for the world's armed forces. One that is sometimes overlooked today, but got people talking when it was first released, is the Longines Heritage Military COSD. A considered nod to the watches the brand produced around the time of WWII, the Military COSD is another strong contender for an everyday watch — with a 40mm case,  super-legible dial, and workhorse movement, there is a lot right about this watch. Felix has the full story below.  The story in…

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11.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch

As you might have noticed (here, here and here), I'm quite interested in bulletproof watches being used in situations with bullets (figuratively). I enjoy, as much as the next guy, reading about the (somewhat theoretical) limits of well-made watches, if it be temperature, altitude or water pressure. But what I love even more is reading true stories of watches in dangerous situations and seeing how they perform. I also suspect that I am not alone in being a passionate consumer of horological testimonials that fall outside of a marketing budget, with there being an evident growth in interest in watches…

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Tudor Black Bay "Smiley" 11.07.2019

Half a decade with the Tudor Black Bay Blue

Editor's note: We remember back when times were simpler. Back before there were half-decade waitlists, before secondhand watches were doubling retail prices, and before everything Tudor made was in-house. It was back in 2014 when Tudor first showed us the versatility of the Black Bay range, and the brand deeply impressed the watch community when they released the Black Bay Blue. This was also the year when Time+Tide started, and Felix's review of this new Black Bay Blue was one of the most popular stories on the site for a long time. So we thought we'd look back at this simple…

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CHANEL BOY.FRIEND SKELETON CALIBRE 3 10.07.2019

The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018

Skeleton dials are interesting, not because they offer a garish look at something exposed but because they showcase the sheer level of complexity involved in modern watchmaking. Without searching for photos of the movement of your watch online, or doing a John Goldberger (and opening your million dollar Rolex 4113 with a cheese knife), the regular watch enthusiast can't just look at the mechanism of their watch. A skeleton dial offers a view of the mechanism that is less invasive, and more intimate, by offering a window into a part of the watch usually saved for the eyes of watchmakers.…

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Nims Bremont S300 Supermarine Bremont 08.07.2019

5 Mount Everest watches that are literally high horology

As long as the internet and watch enthusiasts exist, there will be arguments about what the first watch on Mount Everest was. But rather than discussing semantic possibilities of the interpretation of 60-year-old advertisements, we wanted to look at a selection of Mount Everest watches (not just which was first). Smiths de Luxe   The source of much argument and marketing budget, the Smiths de Luxe was taken to the summit of Mount Everest. The dispute lies in whether the watch was worn on the wrist or kept in a pocket, but, regardless, it was carried in some fashion to…

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711-1R 08.07.2019

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel

Editor's note: The year is 2019, and solid gold is worth less than steel. While this seems strange on the face of it, especially to those more recently in the horological hobbit hole, steel doesn't look like it's getting less shiny anytime soon. So taking a macro view of the watch buying landscape, gold pieces with siblings on the stainless steel hype train represent a comparatively strong value proposition. So we decided to have a look back at one of the best looking rose gold watches from 2015, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711-1R. The story in a second: Patek Philippe…

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Halios Seaforth - summer watches 08.07.2019

A taste of summer (watches), for everyone in winter right now

Editor's note: Wouldn't it be great if you could start every day with a sunrise, without having to get out of bed early? Felix makes the case that this is possible thanks to the Halios Seaforth, featuring a dial as radiant as the morning sun, without a price tag that gives you sunstroke. The other reason it's worth revisiting this watch is, as Type7 noticed, it seems like everyone with an Instagram account is in Greece at the moment, making all of us in the southern hemisphere very jealous. Summer watches like this one will keep us warm till November.  …

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07.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Cultural perceptions of time aren't all straightforward

Here at Time+Tide, we write a lot about watches. What we don't write about as much is what the watches are actually communicating to us — time. And while time seems fairly straightforward (or is it straightbackward?) as a concept, cultural perceptions of time are highly variable, with these differences impacting language, writing and commercial activity of different people around the world. In Australia, it's common to talk about the past being behind us, with the future in front of us. But some people see the past as downhill and the future uphill, with others thinking about the past as being…

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Dan Henry 1970 06.07.2019

The Dan Henry 1962 is coming soon, will it be as good as the DH 1970?

Editor's note: Yesterday, Dan Henry teased us with the news of a new watch to be released on July 8. The only real clues on what the watch is going to be is the name, the Dan Henry 1962, and that it will be a racing chronograph (confirmed in the comments of the post). The brand has a trend of releasing themed watches tied to quintessential designs of the year in their name (as well as the number of units per edition being the same number as the year), meaning we can look at vintage watches from the likes of…

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A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia 06.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An introduction to the watch internet

Despite what many may think, the birth of the watch internet happened a long time before Instagram was around. Back in those days (in an almost Grecian purity), the forum was king, with moderators wielding the sword of truth, slaying inaccurate idiots with all of the mercy Zeus was known for. These forums, most popularly TimeZone and WatchUSeek, were where WIS from around the world would congregate to politely* discuss watches in all shapes and forms. It was a mandatory introduction to the watch internet for any enthusiast. A few folk rose to notoriety in these online communities, including the…

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Rolex GMT Pepsi BLRO 05.07.2019

The most interesting watch bracelets of 2018

Thanks to their central function in the time-telling process, watch dials often get a significant amount of coverage in the horological media. But this often ignores the thing that keeps the dial on your wrist in the first place — the bracelet or strap. Considering the most customisable part of a watch is the bracelet — and what it looks like has significant impact on how the watch actually looks on the wrist — we wanted to look into the most interesting watch bracelets of 2018. G-SHOCK GMWB5000TFG-9 35TH ANNIVERSARY GOLD ALL METAL MASTERPIECE The one that started it all 35 years ago…

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Dirty Dozen British World War 2 Military Watches 04.07.2019

Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today?

The "Dirty Dozen" are watches produced by the 12 British Ministry of Defence contractors during World War II who were tasked with strapping watches to the wrists of allied forces. While some of the brands are bigger and better than ever before, a few have slid into relative obscurity or the books of insolvency firms. I wanted to take a look at which of the Dirty Dozen survive today … Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today? During the Second World War, the MoD took the opinion that civilian watches weren't up to the task of providing accurate timekeeping to…

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Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds 03.07.2019

Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018

While orange might be the new black, another obvious trend in the contemporary watch market is the lean towards heritage styling. This has been a consistent motif across the industry for a number of years now, but 2018 was a year when the number of heritage watches almost eclipsed those with more contemporary design. In the spirit of people loving old stuff better than new stuff, I wanted to shine the spotlight on a few pieces that are some of the best heritage watches of 2018.   HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL Sometimes we come across watches that present such a…

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Cartier-Panther-Revelation-3 03.07.2019

6 of the best women's watches of 2018

Half a decade ago, Time+Tide published a story, citing that by 2020 there would be more female millionaires in Britain than male, leaving it to the brands to respond to this shift. As we also mentioned here, women's watches are so often an afterthought from brands, typically taking a men's model and either shrinking it down or sinking a few stones into the bezel/lugs. While this still occurs, there are a number of brands that are working hard to have an independent women's collection under their roof, which is refreshing to see. Last year, Baselworld had a number of women's watches…

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Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain Rexhep Rexhepi Blue Dial 02.07.2019

LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019

The eighth edition of Only Watch is underway, with the release of the unique pieces offered by the 50 brand partners. After raising 40 million Swiss francs in the last seven editions, Only Watch is one of the most important charity auctions on the calendar, with Only Watch raising money for research into muscular dystrophy. The watches are set to depart on a global tour of Christie's salesrooms, starting in Monaco, under the patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco, who is a strong supporter of the auction. With more than four-dozen brands offering unique watches for…

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Grand-Seiko-SBGH267-5 02.07.2019

Dialled in – the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018

As we naturally personify the objects we come into contact with, the hour and minute indicators on a watch become articulating hands, and the dial becomes a face. Just as we will closely study the faces of the people around us, we search for meaning in the faces of our watches as we read the time, giving watchmakers huge incentive to design the most interesting dials for our viewing pleasure. With this in mind, it wasn't hard to find a good-looking dial, making it a challenge to narrow down the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018. Keep reading for…

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Undone Urban Killy Chronograph 01.07.2019

In 2018, these were the best watches under $1K

When you are first getting into watches, spending a thousand dollars seems like a ridiculous thing to do. Hell, even when you have started your journey into the rabbit hole, $1000 is still a lot of money for the vast majority of people living on planet earth. So with that in mind, I wanted to have a look at some of the best watches under $1K. This is by no means an exhaustive list, and I would love to hear what you would add in the comments, but these were some pieces that stood out to me (I even bought…

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Grand Seiko SBGT241 30.06.2019

These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018

Quartz often gets a bad rap as the ugly duckling of the watch world. With pejoratives such as "soulless", and "the quartz watch is entirely dependent on its battery and it has the dedicated ambition to commit suicide as soon as possible", it takes a beating. And while the latter quote was by a not-insignificant contributor to the horological canon, it also implies literally no technological innovation in quartz watchmaking, which obviously isn't the reality. Quartz watches can be cheap and cheerful, but some quartz watches contain genuine watchmaking expertise, and a taste of something slightly different than laborious crown-winding…

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29.06.2019

Seiko vs. Garmin – who will survive an ultramarathon?

One of the most beautiful elements of the mechanical watch is it doesn't rely on disposable units of lithium to function. If you keep moving, your watch will too. This forms a dependent partnership that for many collectors is a huge emotional attraction to the mechanical watch. The energy from your fingertips directly transfers power into the micro-mechanical marvel that keeps you on time. This was the reason I wanted to wear a mechanical watch on my first attempt at an ultramarathon. My brother had convinced me to run 100km along the stunning coastline between Apollo Bay and the Twelve…

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Rolex-GMT-Master-II-Rolesor-Root-beer 29.06.2019

Two-Timing – 10 of the best GMT watches of 2018

As the internet hits scale, connecting humanity in ways previously unthinkable, it is more important than ever to track more than one time zone. This used to be the specific domain of intercontinental pilots, diplomats and finance professionals, but no longer. Thankfully, watch brands are recognising this demand for watches that track multiple time zones, meaning there are more on the market than ever before. Here are the best GMT watches of 2018.   G-SHOCK GMW-B5000TFG-9 35TH ANNIVERSARY GOLD ALL METAL MASTERPIECE The one that started it all 35 years ago has been reborn, with everything, from its case and…

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Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept 28.06.2019

Don't stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept

Like all good stories filled with plot and intrigue, this one involves acquiring a pressure testing machine, and the decision to design a dive watch with it. Just like that, the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept was born. In case you're not familiar with Ming, they're a relatively young brand that's been making a lot of noise thanks to their attractive and distinctive designs. After taking possession of the pressure testing machine, the team at Ming put their heads together on what this watch was going to look like. They started work on an experimental prototype for a watch that could…

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Patek-Philippe-Aquanaut-Chronograph-Ref.-5968A-5 26.06.2019

Orange you glad we wrote this list? Our six favourite orange watches from last year

Last year we collected more than 200 of the best watches in the ultimate watch buying guide, with prices covering everything from $200 to $200,000+. Pulling from that archive, we thought we'd put together the best watches for summer, themed around orange tones. Here are our top six (+1) favourite orange watches from last year. DAN HENRY 1970 AUTOMATIC DIVER Over the course of 30 years, Mr Dan Henry has amassed a collection of more than 1500 watches. And what began as a simple desire to share his passion with others, quickly turned into the beginning of his eponymous microbrand…

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1927 Patek Philippe Mono-Pusher Doctors Chronograph Ref. 130 from Phillips Auction 26.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market

The watch auction market has hit serious momentum over the last four or five years, with record-breaking results being produced every season. While a portion of the soaring prices can be attributed to macro factors — such as democratised information on vintage watches through the explosion of sites that cover the topic — this isn't the whole picture. As we have previously discussed, watches owned by celebrities appreciate in value particularly well, but this doesn't explain the boom in auction prices for references without significant provenance. As vintage dealer Sean Song discusses, the auction room itself plays a large part in the…

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26.06.2019

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms that tells the story of the frogmen who used them

Editor's note: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, aside from being a damn good-looking dive watch, serves as a reminder that brands can reissue mid-century military watches without breaking the internet. We thought we'd take a look back at this Blancpain Fifty Fathoms tribute, which tells the story of when watches were specially designed tools that meant the difference between life and death. Blancpain has an excellent history in dive watches, and among the most coveted are the military-issued pieces. In this already hyper-specialised niche, the MIL-SPEC I and MIL-SPEC II watches stand head and shoulders above the rest.…

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25.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Can you get rich from collecting watches?

While antique categories such as art, furniture and artefacts have long been recognised as stores of value, watches are a relative newcomer to the game of "buy low, sell high". And this poses an interesting question – can watches help you get rich? It seems like every auction season, old records are broken, and new ones are set for vintage references, and not just with the usual suspects of Patek Philippe and Rolex. While quality examples of Nautilus and Daytona models reach eye-watering prices, enthusiasts and collectors are seeing brands such as Universal Genève, Omega and Cartier climbing in value…

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25.06.2019

How Fidel Castro kept a mid-century Longines in a time-capsule of collectibles

Editor's note: I met Adam for the first time recently at a Longines event, and was blown away when he produced a roll of five watches from his pocket. Apart from some stunning Enicar watches from the '60s, he also had a rather large, time-only watch, with an interesting dial. We got chatting and he told me the story of his mid-century Longines double signed with the retailer Cuervo y Sobrinos. Adam found it in Havana after persisting with a watch dealer for three days to show him the most interesting pieces from the back of his safe. Adam also…

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24.06.2019

5 *other* deep diving watches

With the news that Omega has pushed the bar (pun obviously intended) to a record-breaking point with their new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional, we thought we would look at the best-performing deep diving watches on the market.   Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller With a water resistance to 3900m, the Rolex DSSD is a strong contender for champion of the deep. Featuring the unarguably comfortable oyster bracelet, a case manufactured in the brands own Oystersteel, and a genuinely wearable 44mm on the wrist, it's a fantastic watch for any dive enthusiast.   Sinn Model UX The German manufacturer pulled…

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24.06.2019

Vintage Collector: From Grand Seiko to minute repeaters

Editor's note: Felix interviewed Anders a few years ago to discuss his journey as a vintage collector and what he looks for when purchasing watches. One thing he mentioned then was his motto to never sell, which got us wondering: If nothing ever leaves the collection, what else has been added since then? Have a browse through his Instagram to see an incredibly uncommon minute repeater, a trio of Gérald Genta designed beauties and one of the best Cartier designs of all time. Here's the original chat Felix had with Anders: The world of watches is very small and very…

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20.06.2019

Skip the waitlist – 10 of the best steel sports watches you can buy right now

Ten years ago, this phenomenon only existed in the uppermost echelons of the watchmaking world – the waiting list. There's a lot of wild speculation around why waitlists for certain models exist, with some suggesting market forces, and others suggesting less passive forces. Regardless of their cause, they don't appear to be disappearing anytime soon, which gave us reason to pause and wonder – what are the best steel sports watches you can buy without suffering on a waitlist? After some consideration, here is our list of the best steel sports watches currently on the market – which you can…

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20.06.2019

What it's like to live with the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer

As we all know, the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer is a very rare watch, made by a manufacturer that prides itself on keeping rarity at the core of what it does. What makes this specific H. Moser & Cie Pioneer rare is that of the hundreds of watches Time + Tide Watches Founder Andrew has reviewed, this is a piece he decided to buy. After seeing it on his wrist this week, I thought it was time to revisit why he bought it in the first place. I'm eternally fascinated by the drivers of a watch purchase. The behaviours…

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19.06.2019

INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019

This year, Zenith is lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero automatic chronograph, which is being marked with the release of the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival. This is a very cool watch for a number of reasons, but first, let's look back a half century. The birth of the El Primero It was an important year in the history of watchmaking, as in 1969 the first ever quartz watch was released, as well as the first ever automatic chronograph. While a number of brands completed designs of an automatic chronograph that year (including Seiko and…

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18.06.2019

This guy did a survey and found that 38mm is the perfect watch size – here are our other takeaways

The guy in question is none other than Mark Cho, who's kind of a big deal in the world of menswear. One of the co-founders of The Armoury and co-owner of Drake's. He's also a watch fanatic. He spent one of his first paychecks on an Omega Chronostop, and admits that after falling down the rabbit hole, he has bought close to 60 watches over the last 15 years. Mark was curious about what the perfect watch size was, as well as how this stacked up against the average wrist, so he put together a survey to find some answers. Given…

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17.06.2019

People are clearly still polarised by the Tudor Black Bay P01 – which team are you in?

Chatter about controversial watches happens everywhere from the halls of Baselworld to the comments section of Instagram, but the fury is often short-lived. A couple of notable exceptions released in 2019 included the 11.59 Collection by Audemars Piguet, and for different reasons – the Tudor P01. When we posted a pic of it on Instagram this morning, we were sharply reminded that this model is not done polarising people. While it seemed that the delivery of  a more steady stream of Black Bay Fifty-Eights (as well as a recent flourish of Black Bay S&G Chronographs) to retailers' cabinets had taken the…

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