Time and Tide Watches

Australian Watch Authority

Nick Kenyon

Posts by Nick:

Oris Divers Sixty-Five 31.05.2020

A comprehensive list of the key Oris Divers Sixty-Five watches

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is hugely popular, and rightly so. Any independent brand that makes a well-designed, vintage-inspired tool watch at an affordable price will quickly gain a loyal following, something Oris has done with aplomb since the collection was first released in 2015. What some don't know, and a key ingredient in their popularity, is the sheer depth and breadth of different offerings within the Divers Sixty-Five collection. Currently there are more than 50 different references, varying in size, dial colour, bracelet and beyond to make sure there is something for everyone. So with that in mind, let's take…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic 28.05.2020

Comparing and contrasting the two Bulgari Octo Finissimo ceramic models: Polished vs. Sandblasted, which is for you?

If variety is the spice of life, Bulgari are condiment connoisseurs when it comes to the Octo Finissimo collection. Available in titanium, ceramic, carbon, sandblasted gold and now stainless steel, the many faceted cases of the range offer a dizzying array of different finishes. These external variations are hardly superficial either, they make a profound difference to the overall look and feel of each watch.  Of the 2020 releases, the show was stolen by the new satin-finished Octo Finissimo in steel, but an equally interesting new reference is the ceramic version, now with a polished case. This makes the ceramic…

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Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 27.05.2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft

There is a lot to be said for a simple chronograph. Something clear, easy to read and a pleasure to look at. You don't always want to strap a large, bulky watch to your wrist. One with more information on the dial than you will ever use, and with at least half the displays doing god knows what. Longines has spotted this gap in the chronograph game, and has capitalised on it with their latest addition to the Heritage collection, the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. We first took a look at this watch a couple of months ago, but…

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Smith & Singer watch and jewellery auction 26.05.2020

A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction

Smith & Singer (formerly Sotheby's Australia) are hosting their first watch and jewellery auction of the year this week, featuring a smattering of interesting watches, with a few standout pieces. While the current circumstances mean a crowded room focused on a rostrum is impossible, the auction will be held virtually, with bidding allowed via telephone and online to enable the sale to go forward. While watches only make up a portion of the Jewels Department of Smith & Singer, there are always some interesting lots on offer, including a Heuer Autavia "Jo Siffert" and an Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 1969…

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Grand Seiko SBGW258 SBGW257 SBGW259 26.05.2020

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko First SBGW258 in yellow gold, SBGW257 in platinum and SBGW259 in proprietary titanium

As we should all know by now, 2020 is the 60th anniversary of the launch of Grand Seiko, and while they have released a number of watches linked to this special birthday, this collection of Grand Seiko "firsts" might be the most significant yet. Based on the first-ever Grand Seiko to be born in the Suwa Seikosha factory and powered by the famed 3180 caliber, this latest collection features three references in platinum (SBGW257), yellow gold (SBGW258) and the firm's proprietary Brilliant Hard Titanium (SBGW259). The three different references in three different metals all offer a totally different experience of…

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Raketa Copernic 21.05.2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick's Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors

"Is that what I think it is?" asked Aldis Hodge, Hollywood actor and horological designer, as I sat down for breakfast one morning at Dubai Watch Week 2019. "Yep," I replied. "It's an old Raketa Copernic; I picked it up last year." "Nice, man. I've got one of those too," he said. I had already been happy with the watch, mostly on account of the price I paid for it. But now, I smiled ear to ear. To have its coolness confirmed by a man who definitely knows a thing or two about watch design? That was something else. The…

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Billie Eilish custom leopard print Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 20.05.2020

Warning: Billie Eilish's custom leopard print Audemars Piguet Royal Oak cannot be unseen…

Young Queen of Cool Billie Eilish is known for her avant-garde fashion sense, firmly cementing oversized hoodies, fluorescent hair and dad sneakers into vogue. The five-time Grammy winner and two-time Guinness World Record holder also has a fondness for jewellery — and lots of it. She'll regularly be snapped with fingers stacked with rings, wrists loaded with bracelets and watches, and a neck almost hidden from sight with boldly themed necklaces. She confirmed her passion for lavishly created jewellery and watches in a recent photoshoot with Kenneth Cappello, where she was spotted wearing a highly unusual Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial 19.05.2020

The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most well-known watches in the world, but there are some references within the family that remain relatively undiscovered. While they are extremely rare, Royal Oaks with stone dials are as beautiful as you would imagine from the Le Brassus-based brand, with lapis lazuli and various other textured hard stones used in recent decades. Audemars Piguet have added to this legacy of exotic dials with the brand new Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin, available in platinum and rose gold with a black onyx dial and diamond indexes. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak…

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Horological Society of New York working watchmakers grant 18.05.2020

Horological Society of New York responds to Coronavirus pandemic with Working Watchmakers Grant

The watch industry has a remarkable way of pulling together when times are tough. We see it every other year with the Only Watch auction raising money for muscular dystrophy. Jack Nicklaus auctioned his Rolex Day-Date last year to raise money for unwell children, and John Goldberger did the same with his unique white gold ref. 6265 Daytona in 2018. In response to the Coronavirus Crisis that is sweeping the world, and hitting America particularly hard, our friends at the Horological Society of New York have put together the Working Watchmakers Grant. It is a fund to support watchmakers around…

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18.05.2020

8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers

Sinn is a brand that is stealthily emerging from the shadows. The Frankfurt-based manufacturer favours slow incremental changes to their product line, making their watches better every year, but never reinventing the wheel as they go about it. This year, the new collection has looked to improve on a few older references, as well as introduce something a little bit different from the robust utilitarian watches we are used to seeing from Sinn. Made up of eight new watches across three different collections, it's clear Sinn has chosen to focus their attention on quality over quantity in 2020, a decision…

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Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze 15.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze

As far as micro brands go, Baltic is one of the most popular. We got our own taste of the hype around this brand during this year's Time+Tide "Watch & Act" Auction, when the founder Etienne donated a prototype Aquascaphe to the cause. We knew it had been a successfully released debut dive watch from Baltic, but we never expected the prototype to hammer for more than six times the retail price of a regular production Aquascaphe, selling for USD $4100. Today, another member is being added to the tool watch family of the French brand, the Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze. …

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14.05.2020

Coronavirus projected to wipe out 60 'Swiss Made' watch brands, while downturn surpasses Quartz Crisis and GFC

Coronavirus has surpassed all previous crisis' in terms of its negative impact on the Swiss watchmaking industry, with a 25 per cent downturn anticipated for 2020, according to a report by Bank Vontobel. This is worse than the Quartz Crisis, which saw a 15 per cent decline, and the 22 per cent downturn in the wake of the Global Financial Crisis, notes this article in Watchpro.  "In terms of volumes, we're going to fall back to levels seen in 1945, with probably fewer than 16 million watches sold," said Oliver Müller, the founder of watch industry consulting firm LuxeConsult, in…

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Date windows on dress watches 14.05.2020

NOT ON MY WATCH: Sorry, but date windows on dress watches are ugly and pointless (and Nietzsche agrees)

Editor's note: For a tiny bit of context … NOT ON MY WATCH is about the things we don't like on a watch. It's pretty self-explanatory as a column, but the reason we're indulging our gripes on Time+Tide is that this is a safe place to do so. In the wider world, explaining that asymmetrical sub-dials, or bund straps cause you great distress can sometimes come off as trivial or trite. Of all the issues in the world to complain about, you're choosing cabochon crowns? Especially during a pandemic! But not here. We understand. And, regardless of what else is happening…

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new watches omega bulgari casio Jaquet Droz 10.05.2020

Watches you shouldn't miss, from Omega, Bulgari, Casio and Jaquet Droz

This year might be one of the most unusual ever when it comes to new watches being released. While brands were already seeking different ways to share their new releases with the watch-loving community, the global pandemic that we are still watching unfold has put a stop to almost any plans that brands might have had for the year. That means watches are being released in slow drops at the moment, not able to capitalise on the big moments such as Watches & Wonders or Baselworld where the industry is all in one place (though we did our best to…

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Rolex DayDate 08.05.2020

Great 'Grams: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it's the most interesting Rolex model

The Rolex Day-Date is the stuff of watch collecting lore. Not only has it been worn by some of the most powerful and well-known people to ever walk this earth (understandable, given it's nickname: the President), but the sheer number of variations that it has been produced in over the years make it a goldmine of scholarship and investigation for the collection community. While it might be said the majority of changes Rolex make are glacially slow and (almost) unnoticeable in difference from year to year, the Rolex Day-Date tends to be an exception, as it went through explosive periods…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light 08.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was among the vanguard of the first luxury sports watches when it was released in 1975. But it hasn't stayed in the past, with the constantly evolving new materials and technologies used by the brand in this collection bringing it convincingly into 2020 (with materials such as the electric-looking Carbon Glass, which we looked at here). As well as winning over certain members of the Time+Tide team, who have since professed their love for the model. In this enthusiastic approach to modernity and to new materials, we can announce the release of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light,…

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TAG Heuer Connected Watch 05.05.2020

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation 3, the first smart watch that feels – and looks – like a real watch

Editor's note: Watchmaking is founded on incremental progress. The slow accumulation of applied knowledge that produces a better and better product with each passing year. That is exactly what TAG Heuer have achieved with their latest generation Connected Watch, offering the most optimised blend of Swiss luxury and Silicon Valley tech that we have seen in a smartwatch to date. Andrew spent some quality time with the TAG Heuer Connected Watch generation 3 before it was released to get a better understanding of what it is all about, and how it is better than the previous generations. Without further ado,…

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04.05.2020

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together

Certain expertise has always been found in specific parts of the world, creating hubs of creativity and technical innovation. So what would happen if you put the watchmaking nous of La Chaux-de-Fonds and the tech capability of Silicon Valley together into a watch? You get the TAG Heuer Connected watch, generation 3. The first generation of the Connected watch was released in 2015 (the same year as the first Apple Watch), followed quickly by the second in 2017. This year, we get more of a quantum leap than an incremental improvement. The generation 3 is two things: the most technically…

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custom Bremont Martin-Baker 03.05.2020

Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker

Watch customisation is now a field you can get into at high and low price points, but it's still fair to say that going bespoke with a quality watch fit for the Ministry of Defence for example, is generally reserved for the upper echelons of independent watchmaking. And up at a price point where you might be paying six figures for a watch before you can ask for a different dial colour — and only if you are seen as a very good client. Most watch brands flat-out refuse to do it, a practice that has given birth to the aftermarket…

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IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 02.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, a new contender for the ultimate 'one watch'

The story of the Portugieser begins with two businessmen from, you guessed it, Portugal. They went to IWC asking for a watch as accurate as a marine chronometer but could be worn on the wrist, something that hadn't been done before by the brand. The only way the Schaffhausen-based manufacturer could meet the brief was to house a pocket watch movement in a wristwatch case, thus giving birth to the oversized Portugieser we know today. The original Portugieser watch was the ref. 325, a 41.5mm wristwatch with a subsidiary second dial, bold Arabic numerals to mark the hours, and powered…

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01.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont "La Demoiselle" Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details

This year, Cartier are shining the spotlight on the pioneering age of aviation as a source of inspiration. And that brings to the fore the wristwatch that started it all, the Santos-Dumont. The model returned to prominence in 2019 with the quartz Cartier Santos-Dumont. While the Cartier family and Brazilian inventor Alberto Santos-Dumont are inexorably linked through his role in their development of the first-ever men's wristwatch, it is exciting to see his work used as a motif in a series of limited editions this year. One of the most striking of these limited editions is the Cartier Santos-Dumont "La…

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar 30.04.2020

INTRODUCING: If you're complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you

The best thing about perpetual calendar watches is they are truly set-and-forget timepieces. So if you're reading this a few decades from now and you've picked up a 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar as a birth-year watch, don't worry, it won't need to be adjusted till well into your retirement in 2100. Vacheron Constantin have released two new perpetual calendars in the Overseas collection this year, and while they have a lot of similarities, the impression they each leave you with couldn't be more different. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton First, let's look at the Vacheron Constantin…

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Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo 30.04.2020

INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection

The translucent blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea often conjure images of beach towels draped over deckchairs, shade umbrellas and Aperol Spritz, offering sunbakers relief from a cloudless sky, and small fishing boats rocking back and forth not far from shore. It is this idyllic scene that Panerai has embraced with their latest collection of limited edition Radiomir Mediterraneo pieces (reminiscent of their 2018 collection). The PAM01144 Radiomir 42mm Mediterraneo Edition and the PAM01078 Radiomir 45mm Mediterraneo Edition are both replete with rich blue fumé dials that seek to offer a moment of tranquility when you aren't on the Amalfi…

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29.04.2020

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers limited edition, a bold statement already creating buzz

It was a Friday afternoon last November when I met Jan Edöcs, the CEO of Doxa S.A. He was here for the launch of the brand in Australia, and not only brought the full collection of watches from 2019, but he was also generous enough to share what they had in store for 2020, including early renders of the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers, which as of now is available to pre-order here. ** Rumours are circulating that this watch is already sold out – for now, we can say that an Australian allocation remains for launch…

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28.04.2020

Great 'Grams: No vintage to see here

Great 'Grams has had a couple of weeks off recently, but that's only given me more time to search for the best of the best on Instagram. This edition will be slightly different in that there isn't a vintage watch in sight. If you've read Great 'Grams before, you'll know I have a penchant for older watches, but this week I wanted to focus on a few of my favourite more contemporary pieces, which, of course, have been photographed wonderfully. Let's get into it. @jaegerlecoultre_aficionado Social distancing with the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds "burgundy". It's not fun, but the beauty…

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Vacheron Constantin 2020 collection 25.04.2020

7 highlights from the Vacheron Constantin 2020 collection

Vacheron Constantin are a member of the horological holy trinity for very good reason. When it comes to technical innovation and craftsmanship, they are close to peerless in their capacity to not only create some of the most complex and interesting movements ever, but execute the design in an extremely well-thought-out wristwatch. They won the "Innovation" prize only last year at the GPHG with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and continue to leave jaws slack with some of their 2020 releases, with new offerings in the Overseas, Fiftysix and Traditionnelle families. And while all of these watches…

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Cartier 2020 collection 24.04.2020

Everything you need to know about the Cartier 2020 collection

Make no mistake, the Cartier 2020 collection is a cracker. Last year we were offered a smaller collection of watches that focused on the Santos and Tonneau shapes, but this year we get most of that and much, much more. The latest releases from Cartier are broken down into five distinct collections, but there's also the welcome return of some of the earliest and most remarkable designs from the French luxury firm. The Santos-Dumont continues to shine as the backbone of the brand's design philosophy with two revivals in the form of the Privé and Pasha de Cartier collections. The…

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Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots 23.04.2020

INTERVIEW: Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots is the first of his kind

The Rolex brand is older than the city of Canberra, a fact that shows not only Australia's youth, but, by contrast, just how old watchmaking really is. It also surely makes Canberra one of the least likely places on earth to find someone in their mid-20s making a tourbillon pocket watch. Enter Reuben Schoots … Hidden away in his workshop, Schoots is working on a project that has likely never been attempted before in Australia. He is creating a pocket watch following the George Daniels method. That means entirely by hand. His prediction is that the watch will take around…

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Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock 22.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock

The more watches you see, the less likely it becomes that you see something you've never seen before. The Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock, however, is absolutely unlike anything I've seen before. While the case shape and dial layout has been seen, in different references within the Laureato collection, the eye-catching element of this watch is the case material. The watch is constructed in a proprietary material known as Carbon Glass, a name that perfectly encapsulates the layered crystalline aesthetic on display. Carbon itself is not a new material in watchmaking, and has been used in countless watches. Carbon Glass, on the…

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Cartier Santos-Dumont XL 19.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The new Cartier Santos-Dumont XL gets a mechanical upgrade and adds just 0.2mm in thickness

At SIHH in 2019, Cartier released something very special, and oddly, it was powered by stock standard quartz. The Cartier Santos-Dumont was met with a standing ovation, not just because it was remarkably faithful to some of the earliest watch designs from Cartier, but it was also slim and relatively affordable thanks to that humble quartz movement. The real boldness of the piece was in its diminutive size and thinness. It was something of a redefined version of masculine style. And it was a bullseye. Perhaps the only thing it lacked, for the watch journalists who care deeply about such…

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2020 new watches nicks favourites 19.04.2020

Nick's 5 favourite new watches from the first quarter of 2020, including Audemars Piguet, Bulgari and H. Moser & Cie

For anyone reading this in April 2020, you'll agree that it's a strange time to be alive. Somehow, we have already seen three months of 2020, a point that has felt both incredibly fast and agonisingly slow to pass. As the interconnected health and economic crises continue to unfold around the world, the news cycle is dominated by Coronavirus as its impact is felt everywhere. Including the watch industry, with perhaps the peak announcement this last week that yet more pivotal brands would desert Baselworld after a farcical fallout from the first COVID-related cancellation. While some brands have halted production,…

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Seiko SBWA001 19.04.2020

Hunting (and catching) the epic and rare Seiko SBWA001 from 1999, the first-ever Spring Drive watch

The turn of the century gave us Y2K hysteria, the first use of the Euro as currency and the Spring Drive movement. That's right, in 1999 we saw one of the most remarkable innovations in watchmaking of the last half-century, with the release of the first-ever Spring Drive powered watch, the Seiko SBWA001. This is the story of a reader by the name of Zach's pursuit of one of these fairly rare watches that marked a new beginning for the Japanese manufacturer.  In June last year I was fortunate enough to attend the spectacular HSNY (Horological Society of New York)…

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Seiko 55th Anniversary dive watch collection 18.04.2020

VIDEO: All three limited edition watches from the new Seiko 55th Anniversary dive watch collection

This year, Seiko is celebrating 55 years since their first-ever dive watch, which was released in 1965. Since then, the dive watch has become a core part of Seiko's offering, with innumerable watches released over the years, many of which have developed cult followings. To mark this occasion, Seiko have released a trio of limited edition watches, each paying tribute to an important dive watch from their archive. The three watches in question are based on references released in 1965, 1968 and 1975 respectively, and all still make up a significant part of their professional collection today. As I mentioned,…

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16.04.2020

Tasneem's Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch connects him to more people on earth than he knew before

This week's gone full Speedmaster. On Saturday, it was the 50th Anniversary of the Apollo 13 mission, deemed to be a "successful failure", because there was indeed a major malfunction, but all astronauts on the mission lived to talk about it. I was very fortunate to have heard this story told by one of the men who played a part, US astronaut Jim Lovell – at the NASA Space Centre in Houston. In short, when all the astronauts had to cram into the lunar module to make it back to earth after an oxygen tank exploded on board, the Speedy…

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14.04.2020

Nick's lockdown YouTube playlist feat. Russell Crowe, a very special Rolex and eagles at altitude

Recently, Andrew put together his greatest hits from the Time+Tide Watches YouTube channel, chronicling some of the finest pieces of information and entertainment-rich video we have ever produced. It wouldn't be fair to let him have all the fun, though, so I put together my own list, much of which I enjoyed for years before I joined the Time+Tide team. You can find my full playlist of my highlights right here (close to 3 hours of viewing), but I also wanted to include a couple of my real favourites below. Russell Crowe on the stories behind his watches, and why…

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Swatch Sistem51 Petite Seconde 12.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The Swatch Sistem51 receives an elegance upgrade with the Petite Seconde

The Swatch Sistem51 collection centres its value proposition around two things the rest of the Swiss watch industry finds very much at odds — technical innovation and affordability. With the new Swatch Sistem51 Petite Seconde, we get both of those things in a classically dressed-up package, with the centre seconds of previous models moved to a sub-dial at six. After gaining global recognition as the Swiss answer to the quartz era, Swatch were limited by their own success for a period, as they only produced quartz-powered watches that were incredibly varied in style and relatively disposable in nature. This changed at…

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Cartier Pasha 12.04.2020

What Sealed The Deal – Fergus' Cartier Pasha, a weird, wonderful and waterproof oddity

Editor's note: The Cartier Pasha is a watch surrounded by curiosity. Legend has it that it was commissioned in the 1930s by the Pasha of Marrakesh, who wanted a watch he could take into the water. The design then lay dormant for decades, before it was revived in 1985 by one of the most creative minds the watch industry has ever seen, Gérald Genta. It isn't a watch you see very often, in part because Cartier no longer produce it, and also because the generously embowed case, Vendome-style lugs and chained crown guard are no longer in white-hot vogue. To…

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Elvis Presley's gold Universal Geneve 12.04.2020

This curiously affordable gold Universal Genève owned by Elvis Presley is up for sale (again)

You may have heard the news that Tom Hanks and his wife Rita Wilson contracted coronavirus while filming the untitled Elvis Presley biopic in Australia; they are both reportedly recovering well, but Elvis fanatics will be champing at the bit for the production to ramp back up. It, like life as we know it, has been postponed. While the film is on hold, fans now have the chance to own one of The King's personal timepieces – one that has had a torrid, and fairly low-rent ride through various auctions over the years, never achieving a fraction of the value of…

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Grand Seiko SLGA001 11.04.2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is big and brawny, but make no mistake, it has brains too

There's no doubt about it. The latest 47mm professional dive watch from Grand Seiko makes a dramatic first impression, but that shouldn't overshadow just how remarkable the technical achievements are inside that large and in charge case. The Grand Seiko SLGA001 certainly isn't for the faint of wrist, measuring in at 46.9mm in diameter and 16mm tall, but the technology powering it is impressive to the highest degree. The new Spring Drive movement is thinner than its predecessor, as well as being more shock resistant thanks to a single-piece central bridge. It boasts a full five days of power reserve…

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Seiko SPB149J 10.04.2020

VIDEO: The Seiko SPB149J is a 2020 reimagining of the brand's first-ever dive watch

We've become accustomed to the sight of a vintage reissue in the watch world. Some are good, some are just plain opportunistic and unimaginative, and some miss the mark completely. And the reason many miss the mark is an awkward straddling of the fence between the past and the present. The question boils down to the level of historical accuracy that is being attempted, and whether or not the watch pulls it off. The Seiko SPB149J is a modern reissue of the 62MAS, which was Seiko's first ever dive watch and it opts to proffer a modern interpretation of the…

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history of quartz watches 09.04.2020

Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 2

Editor's note: This is part 2 of a long read from the second edition of NOW Magazine, which you can pick up here. If you missed Part 1, you can find it right here. The story so far is a space race between America, Switzerland and Japan as they sought to manufacture battery powered quartz watches at scale.   On Christmas Day in 1969, Seiko beat both the Americans and the Swiss to the quartz punch when they released the gold-cased Astron. But while quartz was now on the scene, digital watches were en vogue, even gracing the wrist of James Bond when…

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history of quartz watches 08.04.2020

Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 1

The development of quartz technology essentially removed the need for the Swiss mechanical watchmaking industry. And yet, both the Swiss and quartz watches are still around. More than that, they're sharing the bed. And getting more adventurous. Half a century ago, a watch was released that was powered by a battery, and cost the equivalent of a family car. The Seiko Astron spelled the dawn of a new age in watchmaking, one that was moving the industry out of the hands of the solitary craftsman and onto the factory floor. In any industry that has operated the same way for…

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Glashütte Original Sixties blue 04.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The glacial glory of the Glashütte Original Sixties blue Annual Edition for 2020

Bold colours and textures. That's how you could quickly sum up the Sixties collection that has been the vintage-inspired darling of the Glashütte Original lineup ever since they hit the scene. This year, the German-based manufacture has turned the volume down, opting for a much cooler and more restrained expression of the collection with glacier blue dials for the first time ever. Available in both time-only and chronograph formats, this could be a compelling collection for those who love the vintage cues of the Sixties collection but prefer to keep what is on their wrist under the radar a little…

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Seiko SPB149J 02.04.2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB149J

Dive watches have come a very long way in 55 years. It was 1965 when Seiko first dipped their toe into the waters of serious dive watches when they released the Seiko automatic 6217 62MAS, water resistant to 150m. Featuring large luminous hands and hour markers, a rotating dive 60-minute bezel and a rubber strap, it already had all the ingredients of the modern-day dive watch. To pay tribute to this special watch, and the legacy of diving watches that it gave birth to, Seiko have released a collection of limited edition watches inspired by important historic references, three of…

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Mido Baroncelli Big Date Limited Edition 29.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The perfect date night, Mido Baroncelli Big Date Limited Edition

The unending pursuit by watch companies of the most commercially successful blue dial watch with integrated steel bracelet has left a lot of empty space for other expressions of a blue dial wristwatch. With their latest expression of the Big Date, Mido have grasped this empty space with both hands, producing a watch that has a deep blue dial, but is encased in a rose gold tone case, and strapped to the wrist with a matching midnight blue leather strap. It isn't a watch that has already been done to death, and to add to the refreshing take, the aptly…

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G-coolest 2020 G-Shock watches 29.03.2020

G-Shock are losing the plot, and we're loving it

We are only three months into 2020, and G-Shock have already been going hard — really hard. That's right, not only have they released dozens of new watches across a range of different collections since the beginning of 2020, but many of those are pretty remarkable in their own right, some tracking heart rate or surf beach conditions, with others paying tribute to Kung fu legend Bruce Lee or representing streetwear label KITH. There is genuinely something for everyone, so let's take a look at five of the coolest 2020 G-Shock watches. G-Shock X KITH GM-6900 Life is good when…

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Omega De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition 28.03.2020

Long read: Omega De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition, a piece of watchmaking history

George Daniels is almost universally recognised as the greatest watchmaker of his lifetime, and even if you haven't heard of him, you might have seen evidence of his work on the dial of millions of Omega watches around the world — the words CO-AXIAL. His most significant contribution to watchmaking was the development of his co-axial escapement, the first serious step forward in watchmaking in more than 200 years, and was first put to work in the Omega De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition. That's right, not much had changed in two centuries before Daniels began his work. His co-axial escapement…

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2020 Seiko 27.03.2020

Your questions about the 2020 Seiko and Grand Seiko collections are answered here

This week we were lucky enough to have a number of the latest releases from Seiko and Grand Seiko in the office, and we put the call out to Time+Tide readers to find out the questions they had about these new pieces. If you missed the Q&A on Instagram stories (you can still find them in the Seiko and Grand Seiko highlights on @timetidewatches), we've collated those questions and their answers right here. If you had any questions on the new collection that you didn't get to ask, don't hesitate to send us a direct message and we'll do our…

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Kevin O'Leary watches 26.03.2020

7 of Shark Tank investor Kevin O'Leary's watch collecting commandments

"It's completely irrational. It's a horrible affliction," says Kevin O'Leary. "Once you're infected, you have to deal with it. You have to live with the disease." Just like that, the Shark Tank personality confirms he isn't just another rich guy with a bunch of rich-guy watches. He is one of us. He has fallen, quickly, and with unstoppable momentum, down the horological rabbit hole we call home. While that metaphor — of watch collecting being akin to an infection, a disease — now takes on a different spin in these COVID-19 days, it is still the only one that works…

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Great 'Grams 21.03.2020

Great 'Grams: The Fun Edition

This week in Great 'Grams I wanted to focus on the more lighthearted side of the hobby, and probably the initial reason many of us became interested in horology — it's fun. It's fun to learn about a totally new version of a watch you thought you were familiar with, and it's fun to ooh and aah at a gem-set masterpiece because for some reason even though you might never own it, there is a part of you that is glad it exists. It's also a lot of fun to meet other passionate people through this hobby: the founders of brands…

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Franck Muller manufacture 20.03.2020

Welcome to Watchland, the story of the Franck Muller manufacture

From Watchland, the Genevan estate where Franck Muller is based, you are able to look out across the calm blue waters of Lake Geneva to the far bank, and in the distance gaze up at the white peak of Mont Blanc. In this postcard setting, Watchland is an open expanse of chalet-style buildings designed by the Swiss architect Edmond Fatio, punctuated with manicured gardens that remind of the calm grounds of Versailles. This year, Franck Muller announced that Watchland had been renovated extensively, with two new buildings constructed in the same style as the rest of the estate, which dates…

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Franck Muller Vanguard Classic 18.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach

Fans of Franck Muller will know there is something in the Vanguard collection for everyone. With more than 30 different references in the current lineup, including chronographs, tourbillons and skeletonised movements, the independent watchmaker has ensured that no matter where you want to take your watch, there is a generously curved creation for you. Despite the range of options, each reference evokes a specific lifestyle that each watch is suited to, be it for the international money mover, or the type who prefers to spend their time on the deck of a yacht. When it comes to the Franck Muller…

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best watches under $500 17.03.2020

13 of the best watches under $500 that get watch snobs' approval

With all the uncertainty in the world right now, spending several months' salary on a watch might seem like an idea that can wait a while. But for those in the watch community, the idea of not knowing where your next drink is coming from can be an uncomfortable feeling. With that in mind, let's take a look at some of the best watches you can currently buy that will scratch that new-watch itch, without meaning you have to go without toilet paper for the next few months. So without further ado, let's get better acquainted with a few of…

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Rolex shuts down production 17.03.2020

BREAKING NEWS: Rolex shuts down production for 10 days, closing three factories

Rolex Chief Executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour has today informed Rolex staff that they will be shutting down three factories in response to the increasing threat of COVID-19, from 5pm today. First reported by WatchPro USA, the news of the shut down was shared to Rolex employees in a letter, indicating the shut-down is set to last 10 days. Factories will look to reopen on March 27, should the danger of Coronavirus been seen to have reduced during that period. In an environment where many Rolex models, specifically stainless steel Professional models, are very difficult to purchase at retail due to immense…

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Chanel J12 X-Ray 15.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life

Transparency is almost always a good thing, be it in political donations, corporate bonuses or who your local member of parliament is having lunch with. It is a concept that Chanel has adopted as a motif in their watchmaking department, seen in the Boy.Friend Skeleton, their remarkable Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch (an almost US$800,000 skeletonised pocket watch set with 7.12 carats of baguette diamonds and held in an 18k white gold and obsidian lion-themed stand), and now most recently with the Chanel J12 X-Ray. The J12 collection has been making significant strides into the horological landscape of late, winning the…

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independent watchmakers 14.03.2020

Great 'Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition

This week on Great 'Grams, it's all about independent watchmakers, and taking a look at the many different ways these patrons of watchmaking go about their work. One such independent watchmaker is Franck Muller, a man whose factory is known for producing sveltely curved and complicated watches but was once something of a traditionalist. The remarkable creativity and design ingenuity saw him make one of the most remarkable watches in the collection of one of the most remarkable musicians of this generation, none other than Jay-Z. Franck Muller was the man responsible for an unusual Rolex perpetual calendar that is…

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Apple Watch Series 5 review 14.03.2020

IN-DEPTH: The Apple Watch Series 5 review for people on the go

As I mentioned in my video review of the Apple Watch Series 5, this isn't the sort of watch that Time+Tide typically reviews. But since 2017, when the Series 2 was launched, the Apple Watch has made headline after headline as it sold millions of units and increasingly worried Swiss watch executives. This shifted the Apple Watch away from being just another piece of consumer electronics to a well-designed object that deserves the same level of scrutiny as a mechanical watch, for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the Apple Watch isn't going anywhere, and while there are certainly positive impacts…

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Sinn 903 Chronograph 12.03.2020

What Sealed The Deal: Colin's Sinn 903 Chronograph

Sometimes, a Time+Tide Watches reader will share a small piece of watchmaking history that makes us turn to each other and wonder how we hadn't know about it before. This is exactly what happened when Colin strolled into the T+T HQ to look at a couple of DOXA watches, with a familiar looking watch on his wrist, with an unfamiliar name on its dial. He was wearing a Sinn 903 Chronograph, which looked a lot like a Breitling Navitimer from across the room but, as he explained, it was one of the unusual effects of the quartz era. In 1979…

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Grand Seiko SLGA001 10.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is their best dive watch yet

This year is a big one for Grand Seiko as it is the 60th anniversary of the brand, a number already made special with several limited editions. Over the last few days they have released several more, one of which is arguably their most impressive dive watch yet. Say hello to the Grand Seiko SLGA001, a titanium diving watch that is powered by a brand new Spring Drive movement, and is water resistant to 600m. Before we get to why the new movement is important, let's focus on the case and dial. At 46.9mm x 16mm, the dimensions are initially…

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Franck Muller Master Banker 03.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The triple threat of the Franck Muller Master Banker in steel

Franck Muller is known as the Master of Complications, and for good reason. Almost none of the watches produced by the Genevan watchmaker are straightforward, with watches that run backward, hour hands that jump around the dial, and a host of other marvels of mechanical engineering that both surprise and delight. This flair for the complex is seen clearly in the Franck Muller Master Banker collection, a family of watches with a tonneau-shaped case that houses a movement capable of showing three time zones at once – perfect for the international finance professional tracking the global markets. The elegant curves…

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HSNY 02.03.2020

Weekend Watch Spotting – Very rare Rolex spotted in the HSNY Edition

This weekend we were lucky enough to be visited by the fantastic team from the Horological Society of New York, who were in Australia offering watchmaking classes to a few very passionate Melburnians. It was an evening that also celebrated the incredible generosity of the watch community at large, which was shown through the recent Time+Tide Watch & Act! Auction to raise money for those affected by the devastating bushfires over this summer. A number of watch manufacturers, media outlets and even private collectors offered pieces for auction, which were enthusiastically bid on by watch lovers from around the world…

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baselworld 2020 cancelled 29.02.2020

No Baselworld this year, for the first time since World War 1

It was only a day ago that the watch world was reacting to the cancellation of Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH), as a result of the increasing spread of the Coronavirus, and wondering if Baselworld would suffer the same fate in 2020. Overnight, the answer was given, as Baselworld announced that it would be "postponed" until January 2021 due to an official ban by the Swiss authorities on large-scale public events. This is not a surprising decision by Baselworld management, but still a significant one in the context of the challenges the fair has faced in recent years, as…

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Minimalist Watch Brand 28.02.2020

How to make money by starting a Minimalist watch brand

Editor's note: The Minimalist watch brand is an unrelenting feature in the Sponsored section of your Instagram feed, and isn't going away anytime soon. So if you were thinking of capitalising on some horological high-street chic without wasting any time in learning about the history of watchmaking, please enjoy this step-by-step guide to starting your own minimalist watch brand. It's not as hard as you think.  We all have friends who wear watches made by brands like Daniel Wellington and The Horse. We also all know that these watches are, essentially, identical. Yet somehow these simple quartz dress watch lookalikes seem…

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Cartier 28.02.2020

Great 'Grams: The Cartier edition

As you might have picked up if you follow me on Instagram (@nick.kenyon), I have a soft spot for design-focused watches, generally on the smaller side of 40mm and especially those that are vintage. As a result, one of my favourite brands is Cartier, thanks to the strength and consistency that has been present in their designs for more than a hundred years. In that spirit, I wanted to share a few sensational posts I saw this week that were showing off the range of design and technical prowess on offer from Cartier. @misterenthusiast The grey works sooooo well 😍…

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Watches & Wonders 28.02.2020

Coronavirus cancels Watches & Wonders 2020, is Baselworld next?

Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH) has been cancelled in an announcement by the FHH overnight, as a result of the growing concerns around the Coronavirus and its spread throughout the world. This comes off the back of both Citizen and Bulova announcing their withdrawal from Baselworld just days ago, and adds Watches & Wonders to the growing list of watch industry events that have been cancelled due to the virus. The most notable of these cancellations have been the Swatch Group retail and press event Time to Move, and the Grand Seiko Summit, which was to be held in…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved 25.02.2020

Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a paragon of the Art Deco dress watch style, delivering a clean and classic design that has remained the same for the best part of a hundred years. While most watches with a solid caseback offer ample space for an engraving, the Reverso offers more than most thanks to its beautifully designed ability to flip the watch dial over to face the wrist, exposing the caseback to the elements. As most will know, this ingenious technique for hiding the dial from the rest of the world was born on the polo fields of India, where players…

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Swiss watch exports Coronavirus 23.02.2020

BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH

While the Coronavirus outbreak certainly offers a number of reasons for the watch industry at large to be concerned, its effects haven't been severely felt yet. According to recent data from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the first month of 2020 has seen strong watch sales, with a 9.4 per cent increase in Swiss watch exports compared to January 2019. This is specifically seen in watches priced over 500 CHF, with a reportedly negative trend for watches priced under 200 CHF, further confirming the aggressive drop in appetite for Swiss-made quartz watches (which have seen a 35 per…

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Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N 23.02.2020

The revitalising energy of the Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N

Editor's note: The Tudor Black Bay symbolised a new chapter in the journey of the Rolex-owned watchmaker, with the decision to look back into their archives to build their future collections proving a very popular one. Inspired by the Tudor Submariners of the mid-1950s, the Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N is a thoroughly modern interpretation of an iconic tool watch that walks the tightrope of historical design cues and contemporary wearability. Let's take a closer look at one of the watches that put Tudor back on the map.  The story in a second: We've been waiting three long years for…

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world timer 21.02.2020

Great 'Grams: The world timer edition

The world timer complication on a wristwatch has been popular for decades, long before the commercialisation of the jet aircraft, thanks to its clean simplicity and obvious usefulness. The capacity for a watch to tell you the time anywhere in the world, without the need for a highly complicated dial layout or training in pure mathematics, was as profound as it was a sign of the times when it was first invented – in 1931, the world was already shrinking. The world timer complication has only become more relevant over the last nine decades, with more business happening across time…

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Fabien Cousteau 19.02.2020

IN CONVERSATION: With ocean explorer Fabien Cousteau

Google Maps has done a good job of ruining the job of the safari-suited explorer, taking crystal clear pictures of the entire surface of the rock we call home. Where there is hope for the Indiana Jones' of the world is what lies beneath the surface, where under the white-capped waves of the world's oceans only five per cent has been properly explored. It is this unknown factor, and the consequential opportunity for discovery, which gets ocean explorer, diver and conservationist Fabien Cousteau out of bed each morning. While it certainly isn't a career path that high school counsellors are…

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Valentine's Day watch 14.02.2020

HOW TO: Buy a Valentine's Day watch in 90 secs

Buying a watch for anyone other than yourself is a difficult thing to do, for exactly the same reasons it is so enjoyable to wear a watch at all – it is a deeply personal decision. This challenge is amplified when you're faced with the 14th of February, and are standing at the counter of a boutique with three watches in front of you, unable to be sure of which is the best one. Luckily for you, we have arranged a 90-second refresher on what to consider when purchasing a Valentine's Day watch for your significant other, which outlines the…

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14.02.2020

Great 'Grams: Dial details and custom cases

This week on Great 'Grams we get up close and personal with the number of the beast, a custom Eastern Arabic dial from an independent watchmaker, and a very rare Rolex thought to be sold by a retailer off the coast of Miami. The Bahamas-based retailer in question is John Bull, established in 1929 and a current-day Authorised Dealer of Rolex, who once sold some rather unusual sports watches. There is little information out there on these watches, but it seems that John Bull would modify the cases of a handful of Rolex watches with a bark finish and engrave…

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Great 'Grams 07.02.2020

Great 'Grams: A tennis superstar, a unique Rolex

This week on Great 'Grams, we've got a tennis superstar, a fully custom wristwatch by George Daniels, and a southpaw Rolex Day-Date, and more. The tennis superstar in question is none other than Gaël Monfils, who this week posted about a new Instagram account he has started (@myson.watches) that will focus specifically on his watch collection. In his post announcing the account, he was wearing what appears to be a Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator 5235G, a watch that is as unusual as it is under-appreciated, and certainly a piece that requires an immersion in the world of Patek Philippe…

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Rado Bethan Grey 06.02.2020

The dial on on this Rado is absolutely crazy …

Rado are well known for their collaborations with important designers from around the world. Famous names who have designed watches for Rado include English product designer Jasper Morrison, Taiwanese graphic designer Leslie Chan, and more recently the renowned Welsh furniture designer Bethan Gray. The Rado True Thinline Studs Limited Edition is a meeting of Rado's expertise in high-tech ceramic as a case material, and Bethan's interest in traditional craft, and how she can tell that story through design. I was fortunate enough to sit down with Bethan to discuss the drivers of her design process and what it was like designing…

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Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary 03.02.2020

INTRODUCING: The bold and blue Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary

Most brands enjoy celebrating anniversaries based around the centenary, but not Grand Seiko, and it actually makes sense. In watchmaking, the number 60 is significantly more important than 50, as it takes 60 seconds to make a minute, and 60 minutes to make an hour, as well as that in Japan the number 60 signifies the beginning of a new life cycle. As a result, the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary is being celebrated with the release of a number of new limited editions. The brand has released four new references, and all are offered with stunning blue dials, the signature…

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Patek Philippe Solar Clock 01.02.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock

While Patek Philippe are kept most popularly in the mind today through a handful of steel sports watches and the lyrics of chart-topping songs, the company has a history of remarkable innovation that is sometimes overlooked. In the middle of last century — 1950 to be precise — the Genevan firm released a solar-powered table clock, an invention that predated their first-ever automatic wristwatch movement by several years. It is surprising that Patek Philippe were actively investing in light-powered technology so long ago, as even today most watch companies choose not to work with solar power in favour of battery or mechanically…

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titanium Doxa 31.01.2020

Great 'Grams: A titanium DOXA and a Compax close-up

Welcome back to Great 'Grams, where I pick my favourite Instagram posts of the last week and, my word, were there some great stories that hit the feed. One of the coolest I saw was from Jason Heaton, a watch writer and scuba diver, who was selling a very special DOXA to raise funds for an even more exciting project he is working on. The watch in question was a titanium DOXA that was made specifically for Fabien Cousteau's Mission 31 expedition, where he and his team would spend 31 days in an underwater habitat to conduct marine research. Jason…

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31.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction – The Final Additions #2

Finally, we have the last additions to the "Watch & Act!" Auction. Lot 22: TAG Heuer – Unique Piece, Autavia Caliber 5 'Watch & Act!' Edition First released in 2019, this collection represented the first time the name Autavia had been given to a time-only watch, which is originally a portmanteau of automobile and aviation and used for chronograph tool watches. This TAG Heuer Autavia Caliber 5 is offered in a warmly toned bronze case that complements the graduated moss green dial and strap, and is framed by the ceramic bezel. This model was chosen by TAG Heuer to "symbolise…

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31.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction – The Final Additions #1

Over the next two posts, we'll be showing the final additions to the "Watch & Act!" Auction. Lot 19: Baltic Watches – Aquascaphe Prototype Based out of France, Baltic Watches have carved themselves a niche in producing watches inspired by the second half of the 20th century, with a range of genuinely attractive references that have proven themselves to be hugely popular with watch enthusiasts around the world. After the roaring success of the Bicompax chronograph release, they immediately began work on their vision of a diving watch, which resulted in this Baltic Watches Aquascaphe Prototype. While several elements of…

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31.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 18: Montblanc Heritage with a sleek salmon dial

Montblanc's Heritage Collection draws inspiration heavily from the watchmaker Minerva and the timepieces they produced in the '40s and '50s. And there's a very good reason why – Montblanc owns the once great Minerva. As a result, we get great-looking watches like this – the Montblanc Heritage Automatic. Replete with its period correct and vogue salmon dial, this elegant three-hander offers a great amount of vintage flair and modern technicality. Housed inside the subtly rounded 40mm stainless steel case, which is just 11.65mm thick, you'll find Montblanc's Calibre MB 24.26. This trusty self-winding movement offers 38 hours of power reserve,…

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31.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross

This eye-catching special edition, launched at the Dubai Watch Week 2019, features a satin-finished steel case and lush starburst dial inspired by the green in the UAE flag – a colour chosen to inspire hope, growth and prosperity – and four Hindi Arabic numerals painted in Super-LumiNova. This is the first Bell & Ross model to ever feature Hindi Arabic numerals. This watch has been generously donated by Seddiqi Holdings. What we like about it It's pretty well established in the watch world at the moment that green dials are just better. Case in point is this limited edition Bell…

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Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition 31.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 16: It's a Rado Ashleigh Barty party and you're invited

World women's number one tennis player Ash Barty has collaborated with Rado to release a watch this year, bringing us the Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition, a white-hot polished ceramic watch that matches perfectly with the uniform of Wimbledon, which was her first junior Grand Slam win – ahead of her career-defining Grand Slam win at the French Open in 2019. Taking advantage of Rado's expertise in ceramics, both the case and bracelet of the watch have been produced in a polished white ceramic, with the case reinforced with stainless steel. The bracelet is finished with a deployant clasp…

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best watches on bracelets 28.01.2020

13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019

Watches on bracelets are great for a multitude of reasons. They are both durable and comfortable, relatively easy to adjust and aren't ruined if you go swimming with them … all pointing to it being hard to go wrong if you get a watch with a bracelet. Besides, it's always better to buy your watch with a bracelet if you can, because leather straps are much of a muchness, but the variation in a bracelet that might suit your watch is endless. With that in mind, let's take a closer look at some of the best watches on bracelets from…

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Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase 28.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture

The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively located at three and nine o'clock. The elegant curved dial merges seamlessly with the case and features printed Roman numeral indexes and hand-polished hands. Finally, the blue crocodile leather strap completes the look. The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is powered by the…

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Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph 28.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph

With its striking appearance, the 'Full Black' Alpina 4 Manufacture Flyback Chronograph demonstrates an aggressive and distinctive personality. The model features an intense black PVD-coated case made out of stainless steel. The black dial with beige luminous pearl black applied indexes, matching the luminous beige hands, provides a stealthy, slightly vintage look. Note the ergonomically shaped chronograph push-pieces, screw-down winding and setting crown, and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. It can withstand a water pressure of up to 10 atmospheres, equivalent to a diving depth of 100 metres. The 'Full Black' manufacture movement is powered by the AL-760 movement, comprising 233 components…

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130 Years of Doxa 28.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA

Released at Baselworld 2019, this SUB 200 130th Anniversary Limited Edition diver's watch was profoundly popular, and the run of 130 pieces sold out almost before it was released. Time+Tide's own stock of this model, 30 pieces, was sold in just under two hours. We are offering our own archive piece for sale here, brand new in support of the 'Watch & Act!' auction — and to put our own money, a second time, where our mouth is. It has a case of 316L stainless steel and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. Special touches on the Limited…

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Frederique Constant 28.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant

This classic three-handed model from Frederique Constant, with gloss black dial, is a dress watch par excellence. It is presented here with high-polished baton indices, razor-sharp sword hands and an elegant crocodile strap. It is generously donated by Sydney's Wamada Jewellery, Watchfest and the Sydney Chinese Community. The Classics Index Automatic is a symphony of sleek, clean lines, and an elegant black dial that coheres raw classicism and modern-day design. The Classics Index Automatic is powered by the FC-303 automatic caliber with 26 jewels, and runs at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a 38-hour power reserve. The…

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ceramic Bausele 28.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot's watch with a difference

The Bausele Pilot Automatic All Black features an unusual and eye-catching dial layout. The dial has been rotated, moving the 12 from where it normally sits to what is traditionally the two o'clock position. Built with the modern aviator in mind, it is a functional choice, allowing the time to be easily read without removing the hand from the controls. Taking a closer look at the dial, the hour markers are red numerals that have been applied onto carbon fibre discs. The hands and hour markers are lumed, making the watch easy to read. The altimeter-style date window is both…

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Seiko Prospex 28.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 10: Dive into the world of Seiko Prospex

In the world of Seiko diving watches, the collection of watches known as Prospex is actually a contraction of 'Professional Specifications', a reference to the very high standards that the watches are manufactured to. As a result, all watches in the collection are remarkably robust, water resistant and built with ultimate functionality in mind. In the Seiko Prospex SPB101J1, we are offered a stainless steel sports watch that's not only water resistant to 200 metres, but also has workhorse automatic movement and an impressive build quality for the price point. The black bezel and dial create a high contrast canvas…

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James Morrison 28.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 9: An Oris from the jazz man James Morrison

This Oris jazz watch is an homage to the Australian jazz musician James Morrison. It features a gradient 'dégradé' blue dial and a caseback engraved with the Academy of Music logo, with contrasting Arabic numerals marking the hours. The golden seconds hand counterbalance is shaped like a trumpet hook, inspired by James' favourite instrument. This watch – engraved #2 of 1234 – is the first numbered edition available for purchase, with #1 going to the museum as a matter of course. This watch is generously donated by Oris, with the enthusiastic support of the man himself, James Morrison. What we…

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Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph 27.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The Modern DOXA with a vintage movement

Last year, fans were delighted with the release of the DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph, a steel cushion-cased chronograph with an iconic DOXA orange dial. Based on a historical reference from 1969, the SUB 200 T.Graph is part of the brand's revitalisation over recent years, which included the release of the same chronograph, except in solid gold rather than steel. What is particularly interesting with the release of both the stainless steel and gold examples is that DOXA has chosen to furnish them with vintage manual-winding Valjoux 7734 movements. Preserved by the brand for decades, before being restored and updated to…

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Zenith Pilot Rescue ‘Australian Rescue’ Edition 27.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 7: One of a kind with the Zenith Pilot Rescue 'Australian Rescue' Edition

This unique piece, with a custom Australian-themed caseback and unique dial, has been conceived and created from scratch by the brilliant minds driving Zenith's groundbreaking new era. It combines the slate grey dial of the brand new 'Rescue' series of Pilots, with a bronze case to dramatic effect. The blood-red crossed axe motif on the dial is another reminder of both its uniqueness and its mission. It is engraved with the words 'Australian Rescue Edition – Unique Piece' on the caseback. This watch is generously donated by Zenith. This Piece Unique watch from Zenith is based on the Pilot Type…

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limited edition Nick Hacko 27.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 6: A limited edition Nick Hacko born in Sydney

This watch comes with a moving personal story. The first of a run of 200 'Mark 1' models that are keenly being awaited by their future owners, it was actually a present from Sydney watchmaker Nicholas Hacko to his wife: "It is a very special watch for her, and she is parting with it in both sadness and joy that the money will go to a good cause." The watch is in mint condition with a new kangaroo strap fitted. The Mark 1 is assembled from the components of 11 part manufacturers who make components based on Hacko's design drawings.…

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double signed Rolex 26.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting

Double-signed dials are the perfect example of how the details of a watch are sometimes the most interesting, revealing not just where a watch might have been sold, but opening up a window into the past to expose key relationships and macroeconomic trends that affected how the business of selling watches was done. Double-signed dials that show both the name of the watch brand and the retailer who sold the watch have increased in recent popularity, with auction house Phillips curating a special sale "Double Signed" which sold both vintage and modern watches that featured double signatures (including important Zurich…

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great 'grams 24.01.2020

Great 'Grams: MLK Day, Joshua Trees, and a very special AP

This week the US celebrated Martin Luther King Day, a reminder of Mr King's work as a civil rights leader campaigning against segregation, and also a reminder that our efforts to build a more equal world mustn't subside as we move forward. To mark the occasion, the watch collecting community was offered a post of a very important Patek Philippe pocket watch with an equally important engraving on the caseback. We were also treated to a new limited edition from Audemars Piguet, produced for one of their most successful markets, and a damn cool shot of a Bremont A-10 a…

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Longines Heritage 23.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 4: A classic from the Longines Heritage Collection

The Heritage Diver 1967 was released at the first Basel we attended as Time+Tide, so it holds special significance. It was also one of our favourite releases of the year, with its heft, heritage-correct styling and dashing colour scheme, it photographed beautifully and remains a solid submarine option in the truest sense. This watch is generously donated by Swatch Group Australia. Longines have got a lot of things right about this design, particularly on the dial. Sure, the original watch was a bi-compax chronograph with no date, but other than that, the handset is perfect (so '60s), and the indices…

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Cartier Mystery Clock 22.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery

Louis Cartier has an important place in the history of the Cartier company, not only because he ran the first-ever Paris boutique but because he was responsible for one of the most enigmatic creations the brand released, the Cartier Mystery Clock. The origins of the Mystery Clock are found in 1912, when Louis Cartier began developing the playfully puzzling clocks with his watchmaker Maurice Coüet who, in turn, had studied the designs of the French magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin (who inspired Ehrich Weiss to adopt the stage name Houdini). The result was one of Cartier's most enduring designs, inspiring a sense…

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History of Chopard L.U.C 21.01.2020

VIDEO: The History of Chopard L.U.C watchmaking

Chopard have been an important firm in the Swiss luxury landscape since they were founded in 1860, but they weren't always the house of haute horology that they are today. It wasn't until just over a quarter of a century ago, in 1993, when Karl-Friedrich Scheufele made the decision to refocus the brand's energies into the art of watchmaking, and only thee years later marked an important year in the history of Chopard L.U.C as they launched their first in-house movement. Since then, the in-house component of Chopard's watchmaking has gone from strength to strength, developing new movements at a…

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17.01.2020

Great 'Grams: A beautiful Bulgari and more …

Welcome back to Great 'Grams, where we take a look at some of my favourite Instagram posts of the last week, by some of the most interesting people in the watch world. Last week we spanned the gulf of limited edition A. Lange & Söhne to the best in vintage Seiko and more, but this week I saw some genuinely excellent vintage Rolex and the delivery of the most accurate watch in the world. Let's get to it. @petitesecondes This Friday is in need of some serious lume action 😎. The blue dial Tudor Pelagos in full flight, bubbling with…

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16.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this man the King of Cartier?

Harry Fane is one of the world's foremost experts in Cartier, not just watches but the entire gamut of objets d'art that have been produced by the brand for more than 150 years. He cites his specific interest in the brand as being the golden age of the luxury maison from a creative standpoint, regarded as falling between 1919 and 1939, when some of the most important designs from the brand were developed. One of the reasons for Mr Fane's fascination? A part of it boils down to the ambition to make the quotidian more beautiful. "Cartier had a great…

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vintage Patek Philippe 14.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with one of the world's foremost vintage Patek Philippe collectors

John Reardon is one of the world's foremost experts on collectible vintage watches, having recently left his position as Christie's International Head of Watches, and one of the areas he is most passionate about is vintage Patek Philippe. So what better way to express that passion and put his wealth of knowledge to good use than start his own dealership of vintage Patek Philippe? He launched Collectability to guide interested members of the watch world on their Patek Philippe collecting journey, buying and selling only the rarest and most interesting pieces produced by the Calatrava cross-bearing manufacturer, offering everything including…

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custom Patek Philippe Nautilus 13.01.2020

Drake shows us "Life is Good" with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director

Drake recently took to Instagram to let us know about his latest watch acquisition — a fully custom Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726 that had been black DLC-coated and gem-set with dozens of emeralds. While Drake is well known for his love of the Genevan firm, this watch was special for a couple of reasons. Firstly, he posted the image of the watch only hours after fellow rapper Future released his latest track, Life is Good, which Drake features heavily on. In the song, Drake drops a hint about the timepiece he is about to show-off on Instagram, rapping,…

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Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition 13.01.2020

What Sealed The Deal – Joseph's Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition

Editor's note: The hunt for a new watch is, for many watch enthusiasts, a huge part of the collecting experience. It isn't enough to simply buy a watch, but a watch must be searched for long and hard, with its eventual discovery making the acquisition all the more exciting. This is the story of Joseph and his hunt for an Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition. This is a tale of an Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition that was one of only 2998 pieces … seven months' perfection, six years' lust, three countries and two continents, and one hospital trip. The Omega Speedmaster…

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11.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: DIY watch waterproofing

The topic of watch water resistance is a tried and true watch forum favourite, showing just how motivated watch enthusiasts are to keep their wristwatches running underwater. If it's expressed in bar, metres or feet, anyone who has spent a few months salary on a new watch is understandably interested in keeping their watch away from the limits of the reported water resistance, just in case disaster should strike. What most of those watch owners don't know, however, is there is a method to ensure the water resistance of their watch from the comfort of their own home. That's right,…

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2019 $20k Fantasy Watch Collection 10.01.2020

Nick's 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection

Selecting the best watches of 2019 with an unlimited budget is one thing. But those of us who aren't hip-hop stars or oil tycoons have to comply with the tiresome reality of financial constraints. Which leads us to the challenge of selecting a $20K Fantasy Watch Collection from 2019. Here's my hit list that sneaks in five watches just under the limit, to a total of AUD $19,785. Longines Heritage Classic The Longines Heritage Classic was one of the best watches of 2019, hands down. It felt like Longines listened to all of the complaints about recent heritage reissues, and…

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Great ‘Grams 10.01.2020

Great 'Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania

Great 'Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania It's the start of a new decade, and as we hit the Roaring '20s, there's no sign that anyone is spending any less time on Instagram — especially if they love watches. With that in mind, I thought I'd do my best to put all of the time I spend on the 'gram to good use, and wrap up my five favourite posts of the previous week, in what will aim to be across a range. After all, if you ever find yourself scrolling through the feed and bored, you aren't following…

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Tissot Seastar 1000 09.01.2020

Two years after its release, this Tissot is still one of the best value propositions on the market

Editor's note: When you're looking to buy your next watch, you want to know you're getting great value for the money you're spending. This Tissot Seastar 1000 could still be one of the best value watches on the market after its release at Baselworld 2018, and there's no sign of that changing. Let's take a closer look at this beautiful example of "bang for buck".  This is such a great watch. Honestly. I can't think of many (if any) Swiss-made watches that offer such a punchy package for this sort of price. Not only do you get the impressive Powermatic…

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Hublot boutique in Sydney 07.01.2020

The first ever Australian Hublot boutique in Sydney offers an exciting future

It's been a very busy month in Sydney's watch retail space with a number of brands opening their doors, and an exciting Swiss brand has entered the fray with the first ever standalone Australian Hublot boutique in Sydney. Located in the heart of Sydney on King Street, the new space embodies the brand's motto of "The Art of Fusion", blending marble and glass in the form of alchemy that only Hublot has mastered. Throughout the boutique, the walls are covered in mirrors and pop-art, expressing a playfulness of light and space that is also expressed in Hublot's watches, especially through…

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Favourite Watches of 2019 03.01.2020

Nick's 5 favourite watches of 2019

The more you look at different watches, the more critical you become, as you better understand what the watchmaker and designer were trying to achieve, and how successful they were at executing it in the final watch. This year, I got a lot of opportunities to handle hundreds of different watches, both new and vintage, and after thinking for a couple of weeks about the best of the new watches, these are my five favourites of 2019. Longines Heritage Classic It unfortunately isn't often that brands nail the details of heritage-inspired wristwatches, but for me, Longines accomplished just that with…

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01.01.2020

Letter from the Deputy Editor: 2019 in review

As we float about in the liminal space between Christmas and the new year, it's a great chance to reflect on the year that the watch world was in 2019. Andrew mentioned in his Letter from the Editor that 2019 could be defined by the hysterical focus on SSR (stainless steel Rolex), as well as similar watches from both Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. As a result, this has certainly been a part of almost daily discussion in the Time+Tide office. It might be an eye-watering auction result, a watch listed for sale online at double retail, or a question…

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Favourite Watch Photos from 2019 30.12.2019

LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason's favourite watch photos from 2019

I asked Jason, Time+Tide's resident photographer, if he could tell me his favourite watch photos from 2019 that he had captured, without quite realising the sheer scope of the work that he had done this year. I soon found out.  "Hey Jason, how many photos have you taken this year?" "How many have I edited, or how many have been published?" "No, how many times have you pressed the button on your camera?"  "Oh, that's a big number. Tens of thousands, easy."  So out of the tens of thousands of shutter clicks that happened since we last lapped the sun…

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23.12.2019

The Horological Society of New York is coming to Melbourne, and you're invited – Feb 29th and March 1st

The Horological Society of New York, the oldest watchmaking guild in America, formed 1866, is one of the world's leading educators on all things watchmaking and horology. For the first time ever they are coming to Australia. We are proud to be the official media partner for the tour. We are joining with event partner, The Hour Glass, to make this maiden voyage a smashing success. Classes will run on February 29 and March 1. Buy tickets here.  The esteemed guild will be offering classes in Melbourne on how your mechanical watch works — covering everything from how the escapement works…

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Apple Watch Series 5 20.12.2019

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Apple Watch Series 5

There have only ever been three smart watch reviews in the three thousand review history of Time+Tide. Which makes this review special. The reason we wanted to get our hands on one of the latest Apple Watch Series 5 models was the host of new features, including some new and luxurious materials, many of which approximate the luxury watch world we live in – full ceramic? Full titanium? Don't mind if we do. After spending some time with it on the wrist (including running a marathon with it on), I found that there were some things to report (other than…

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20.12.2019

LIST: Nick Kenyon's Favourite Watch Photos from 2019

Just like new parents have a large number of bad photos of their children on their phones, watch collectors have a large number of bad photos of watches on their phones. The number of photos is large because we love watches like new parents love their children, and the reason they are bad is because it is actually quite hard to take a good photo of a watch. The myriad of polished surfaces catch every reflection you don't want, and the lighting is either too bright or too dark, leaving you with about a 5% success rate of Instagram-publishable pictures.…

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Nick Kenyon 17.12.2019

LIST: Nick Kenyon's 5 favourite articles of 2019

As 2019 draws to a close and I get the opportunity to reflect on the year that was (as well as prepare for endless upcoming jokes on my 2020 vision), it's impossible not to acknowledge that it has been a massive year for Time+Tide. The team has worked hard on a number of different projects, including Edition Two of NOW Magazine and the Time+Tide Club, all while delivering a very passionate family of watch lovers the news of the watch world every day. Naturally, there's a feeling of huge thanks to the readers who give such positive (and sometimes passionately…

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the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic white dial 16.12.2019

VIDEO: Why the white dial Clifton Baumatic is classic cool

Sometimes, it pays to be conservative. It isn't advice that should be regularly advocated; however, when it comes to what you wear on your wrist, sometimes it is a must to have something that is at the same time classic and crisp. In the case of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic white dial, that is exactly what you get, with a watch that tells you everything you need to know with its three hands and date window, and is quietly confident in how well it avoids seeking attention. Its starched white dial is almost vividly clear with minimal text…

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16.12.2019

3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique

It was only three short years ago when the first-ever Australian Seiko Boutique opened in Sydney, but the Japanese powerhouse has kept very busy, announcing the exciting news of the opening of the first-ever Australian Grand Seiko Boutique. This is a strong statement from the brand as they continue to drive the distinction of Grand Seiko being the premium offering compared to Seiko, which is reinforced by Melbourne luxury retailer Monards recently starting to carry Grand Seiko. While it is exciting news for fans of Grand Seiko to know there is a dedicated space for their favourite brand, it is…

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15.12.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How watches became financial assets

The topic of watches and their worth has been the talk of 2019. With never-ending threads of comments on social media, expressing frustration at the current prices of some pieces, retailers attempting to negotiate the challenge of managing wait-lists, and the growth of The Flipper in the world of watch buyers, it seems that 2019 was the year that watches became financial assets. While most of this commentary is essentially regret-filled grumbles about passing on a Patrizzi dial Rolex Daytona for four figures half a decade ago, there are some examples of well-considered and articulately structured thought on the topic.…

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Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt 15.12.2019

VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt

One of the most appealing elements of a Louis Vuitton watch is just how unabashedly bold they are in their design, as well as their wrist presence. The new Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt is an excellent example, with its amply portioned 46mm stainless steel case, vivid dial graphics and branded rubber strap. The dial is styled with the iconic Damier canvas pattern that offers a chess board of black and navy, which is then overlaid with striking slashes of red and white to form the brand's V. There aren't many companies producing watches in the world with such visual…

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TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 14.12.2019

VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco?

It's been a big year for the TAG Heuer Monaco as it celebrated 50 years of production from when it was first released in 1969. The brand has released a number of limited editions this year in celebration; however, they arguably saved the most important release till last with the new TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02. The reason it is so significant lies beneath the dial, with the newly added Caliber 02 offering the first ever Monaco with an in-house movement. The TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 uses the same case dimensions as other references from the Monaco family at…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique 12.12.2019

EVENT: Here's why the first ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique is opening tomorrow

For the first time ever, Jaeger-LeCoultre is opening a stand-alone boutique in Australia, which aims to offer greater access for their Australian enthusiasts than ever before. The brand is also quietly confident that the Australian market has reached a level of maturity that a complex and nuanced brand such as Jaeger-LeCoultre can capitalise on the growing wave of interest in luxury watches. In comparison to nearby markets in Asia, Australia has often previously fallen behind in sales; however, more recently, there has been a resurgence that has not gone unnoticed in Switzerland. With the brand opening their new Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney…

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10.12.2019

VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters

It's been a big year for Chopard, thanks in part to the release of the Alpine Eagle, the first ever steel watch from the brand, and one of the most discussed watches of the year. As this new sports watch got the world talking about Chopard, we thought it was the perfect time to take a look at the other work that Chopard has done in watchmaking, and why they might be more serious watchmakers than you had realised. We sat down in their boutique in Sydney, a warm and welcoming space that feels more like a lounge than a…

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09.12.2019

When is faux-patina okay? Early thoughts on the new Omega Seamaster 007 Edition

Omega recently released the hotly anticipated Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, in association with Bond's newest upcoming adventure, No Time To Die. It isn't the first watch Omega has produced in partnership with the legacy of Ian Fleming, not even the first one in 2019, but with its under the radar brushed titanium case, it's certainly one of the best-looking watches the franchise has ever produced. But while the new Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition was met with a crowd of cheers, there were inevitably a few grumbles about the watch (yes, generally in the Instagram comments), mostly focused on…

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frosted gold audemars piguet 08.12.2019

Frosted gold is very, very underrated

Editor's note: There are lots of ways that watchmakers like to decorate their micromechanical marvels, such as engraving, polishing, brushing or even Côtes de Genève inside the case. While all of these techniques are wonderfully effective when done well, one of the most visually impressive (and generally underrated) techniques to finish a watch is hammering to achieve a frosted look. Used predominantly in jewellery, Audemars Piguet have deployed the artisanal method on the cases of some of their Royal Oak references, plating up a visual feast that looks like it has just left the freezer. Frosted gold catches the light…

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Vertex MP45 chronograph 05.12.2019

What Sealed The Deal – James' Vertex MP45 chronograph

Vertex is a brand with a wonderful history. Founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, the brand produced watches for Allied troops in the Second World War, following the specifications of the British Ministry of Defence, alongside 11 other brands (a group of manufacturers now known by collectors as the Dirty Dozen). The brand continued to produce watches in the post-war years, until Vertex was forced to close its doors in February 1972, due to the quartz era which wreaked havoc on the watch industry. The brand remained the subject of history books until 43 years later, in 2015, when Don…

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Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition 03.12.2019

INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition

The latest young star to join the ranks of Rado is the Australian tennis player Ash Barty, who despite being only 23 has already reached the position of women's world No. 1. What is most exciting for us, and her fans around the world, is that she has collaborated with Rado to release a watch this year, bringing us the Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition, a white-hot watch that matches perfectly with the uniform of Wimbledon, which was her first junior Grand Slam win. While we obviously love Ash Barty because she's an Aussie, we also love that she…

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Pequignet Rue Royale 03.12.2019

What Sealed The Deal – David's Pequignet Rue Royale

Getting engaged is an incredibly special moment in anyone's life, as it spells the beginning of something that will endure to stand the test of time. What better way to celebrate than with a new watch, to match your fiancée's new ring. This is the story of David and his Pequignet Rue Royale. When did you first see/hear about it? Nearly 10 years ago I read about a brand called Pequignet in one of France's national papers. I could instantly tell their Rue Royale was a serious machine, with its classic good looks and multiple complications powered by an in-house…

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Rolex Cellini collection 01.12.2019

Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection

Editor's note:Benvenuto Cellini was an Italian goldsmith and sculptor born in the last year of the 15th century, who would go on to become one of the most important precious metal workers of his time, finding employment with the royal families of Europe and the Vatican. It is this talented artisan who was the inspiration for the Rolex Cellini collection we know today, with clear links between the Mediterranean metalworker and the timeless designs seen throughout the family of watches. While the "W" word has persistently dominated almost all mention of Rolex in recent times, it is worthwhile to take the…

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Sotheby's Australia auction 01.12.2019

7 exceptional watches at the next Sotheby's Australia auction

Last time I covered a Sotheby's Australia auction, it was my first time attending a watch auction, and while there were a number of highlights, the sale was heavily weighted towards jewellery. In December, however, Hamish Sharma, the Head of Jewels at Sotheby's Australia, and his hardworking team have produced a sale that not only has more watches but includes a number of very rare pieces that may have never hit the public market in Australia before. A standout among the highlights is the sale of a yellow gold Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI from 1969 ref. 145.022-69, which is an…

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Dubai Watch Week 28.11.2019

Why did Dubai Watch Week invite a quantum physicist to speak?

Science is very boring. For most people at least, and Michael Biercuk, who works as a quantum physicist, is far from most people. In fact, the phrase "Only boring people get bored" goes a long way to explaining why (if you follow the syllogism) Michael is deeply interested in a highly technical area that causes the eyes of most to glaze over, because he is also deeply interesting. I met with him at Dubai Watch Week, where he was a speaker at the event, and was fortunate enough to sit down with him and find out about his work as…

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Seiko Save the Ocean 28.11.2019

Saving the Ocean with Seiko Prospex

I recently had the privilege of attending an event with Seiko that focused on their Save the Ocean collection, and the work that can be done with the funds raised. While the event itself was an interesting blend of experience and information, I'll explain exactly what the Seiko Save the Ocean collection is first. If you've ever been in a boutique that carries Seiko, while you were browsing the cabinets packed with their latest releases, you might have noticed a range of dive watches in the Prospex family with gradient blue dials that have an almost metallic quality. If you…

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Dubai Watch Week 2019 27.11.2019

WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019

In a city as affluent as Dubai, it isn't a surprise to see some pretty wild watches come out to play at the city's own Dubai Watch Week. While there are some of the usual suspects to be seen, such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, Dubai also showed its sophisticated side with some less common contemporary pieces and even rarer vintage watches. So while I wasn't able to capture anything close to the full spectrum of interesting timepieces donning the wrists of those wandering the exhibiting booths, this is a small smattering that shows just how varied and articulate the…

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Doxa SUB 300 Professional 25.11.2019

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian's DOXA SUB 300 Professional

While wandering the booths of Dubai Watch Week, any enthusiastic eye can spot Rolex, Patek Philippe and the rest of the usual suspects on the wrists of other attendees, but it was a surprise to see a flash of orange pass by one afternoon. Sure enough, after stopping and speaking with Julian briefly, I confirmed it was indeed a Doxa SUB 300, and that not only was it one of four in his collection but he was also a diver who happily used it while exploring the murky depths. When did you first see/hear about it? I first came across…

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Dubai Watch Week 25.11.2019

What is Dubai Watch Week, and should you go?

Dubai Watch Week is in its fourth year, and is hitting a scale that should be making the other watch fairs around the world take notice. In the context of Baselworld being in some of the worst trouble it has experienced in its 100+ year history and SIHH (now called Watches & Wonders in 2020) losing the commitment of some of its largest brands, and both of the fairs changing their dates in an attempt to make them more convenient to attend (though this was cited as the reason for both Seiko and Grand Seiko pulling out of the 2020…

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hublot ferrari GT 24.11.2019

VIDEO: Hublot's Prancing Pony

At Baselworld 2019, Hublot released a new chronograph in partnership with Ferrari that looked almost un-Hublot. We had become so used to recognising the hard angles and faceted cases of the brand founded by Carlo Crocco that the flowing curves of the newest Classic Fusion were staggeringly svelte in comparison, and suddenly appealing to an entire new part of the watch-loving community with the Hublot Ferrari GT. Here, we take a look at two examples from the new collection, examining in more detail the partnership between Hublot and Ferrari, and how this relationship has made its effect felt on the collection.…

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Bremont Ronnie Wood 24.11.2019

INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood "1947 Collection"

The limited edition watch is a tactic used by watch brands that is receiving increasing numbers of eye-rolls as dozens are churned out each year. But where many brands simply change a dial colour and limit production to 200 pieces, Bremont has been making limited editions with a difference. Cutting through the noise of endless small production runs that are small because a marketing department suggested it, Bremont limited editions are limited for good reasons, such as the Bremont H-4 Hercules having an original piece of the H-4 "Spruce Goose" inlaid in the rotor, or the Bremont Supersonic containing a…

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Casio MTG-B1000RB 22.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Albert's rainbow G-Shock

We've said it before, but if you ask a watch geek their thoughts on the humble G-Shock, chances are they'll give it the tick of approval. Because when it comes to the G-Shock, not only are they incredibly robust watches that are basically bulletproof, but they also exist beyond the horizon of haute horology and have passed into the lands of a more popular culture, where a normal person who has never heard of a tourbillon or a GMT-hand will wear a G-Shock and be proud that it is both cool and comfy. In addition to their broader social recognition,…

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rolex kermit 21.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Gilbert's Rolex Kermit

A relationship with a watch can be a complex one, fraught with the tensions between longing and expectation, and the quotidian reality that it is just an object, full of as much meaning as you are able to maintain within it. If you buy a watch brand new, you can bask in the pleasure of the boutique experience, but are inevitably faced with the anguish of the drawing of first blood as you notice a single scratch on an otherwise pristine surface. If you buy vintage, you inherit the imperfect character of the watch as you recognise that you are…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue 21.11.2019

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue dial

The story in a second: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue dial is a familiar face, which has been sleekly refined. If you know TAG Heuer, you'll know the Carrera chronograph, a wristwatch that has been trackside at motorsport events for decades, offering those behind the wheel a functional timing tool. While some of the design detail has been adjusted over the years to suit the evolving tastes of the gentleman driver, the DNA of the watch has remained the same since its birth in the 1960s. Last year, we were presented with an interpretation of the Carrera Calibre…

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IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph 20.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Chris' IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph

The only thing thrown around more often than the word iconic by watch media is watch media cleverly saying how often the word iconic is being thrown around. But despite committing both sins in one paragraph, Sunday confession would be a comfortable one if you were talking about IWC pilot's watches as iconic. With designs unchanged for decades, it is the archetype of the pilot's watch, with large luminous hour markers and hands that contrast against a dark dial, and essentially offer everything the modern world is looking for in an everyday watch. Chris was kind enough to speak with…

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Les Collectionneurs 17.11.2019

8 incredible vintage watches from Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs

I have always found it strange that the majority of watch brands, who rely so heavily on their long history to market their watches, also make it very difficult for collectors to access any information on vintage pieces from that same brand. Admittedly, there are several brands that are able to provide interested owners with archival extracts for their vintage watches, but it is a minority of manufacturers who support enthusiasm for any watches that were not released last Baselworld. One of the brands in this more broad-minded minority is Vacheron Constantin, whose Les Collectionneurs watches have recently arrived at…

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captain cook 16.11.2019

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct

First released in 1962, the Rado Captain Cook offers firepower on the wrist, as well as more than half a century of rich history. The initial production numbers may have been small during the swinging '60s, but the Captain Cook left its mark on dive watch enthusiasts around the world, and in 2017 Rado treated its fans with a re-release of the famous watch. In this example with a black dial, we are offered a 42mm steel case with a glossy black bezel that frames the dial nicely. The blend of brushed and polished surfaces on the case add contrast,…

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watch auction expert 13.11.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: 14 lessons from Christies' watch auction expert

To work at one of the largest international auction houses in the world, you need to know your stuff, which makes you very good at evaluating the world's rarest watches and also passing that knowledge onto collectors and enthusiasts. One such watch auction expert is Dr Andrew Hildreth, who is responsible for presenting and writing Christie's online course, "History of Watches: 1700 to Now", a comprehensive overview of just about everything you might need to know about the last 300 years of horological history. The man seriously knows what he's talking about, with his favorite vintage watch being a unique…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 12.11.2019

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

This year, the brand known for their focus on avant-garde techniques has updated one of their most iconic sporting chronographs, to produce the best-looking TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 in recent years. With an aesthetic of clean refinement, the less-is-more approach has come up trumps in a watch that prioritises robust functionality over notions of new-age minimalism. While the template of black dials with red highlights has been a successful one for the Calibre 16 over the last few years, this version has been updated with less busy dial markings and text. Additionally, the bold rhodium-plated indexes are less visually…

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Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar 10.11.2019

GPHG "Innovation" Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

It's been a very busy week of watches in Geneva, with Only Watch 2019 setting new records, and the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awarding prizes to some of the best watches of the year (which included some upsets). Amidst the clamour and drama of the GPHG, where the pitting of brands head to head can increase the blood pressure of some ardent watch enthusiasts, the focus can sometimes miss the truly impressive feats of technical engineering that are on display. One of these feats is the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, a watch that not only…

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Breguet Marine 5517 08.11.2019

VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517

More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed as an official chronometer maker of the French Navy, and the tradition lives on today in the Breguet Marine 5517. The 5517 is a robust sports watch, machined in a lightweight titanium that almost perfectly matches the deep-grey dial tone, and offers a host of details that any discerning eye should appreciate. You could talk about the radially brushed dial that explodes from the Breguet logo rather than the typical centre, the flowing wave-like crown guards, or the classic Breguet hands that have been contemporarily reimagined to bring both traditional form…

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custom military Bremont 06.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Nic and his custom military Bremont ALT1-WT

Nothing raises the heart rate of a watch enthusiast faster than the story of a tool watch being used in the environment it was originally designed for, which was why I almost needed to call an ambulance when Nic told me the story of his Bremont ALT1-WT made for his RAAF squadron. Nic's job is flying the fuel tankers of the sky, Australia's KC-30s, which are able to refuel other aircraft while mid-flight. In his squadron's collaboration with Bremont, they customised a number of elements of the original watch, including striping the GMT hand the same colours as their refuelling…

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Breguet Classique 5177 06.11.2019

VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177

Of all of the high-quality, well-finished and technically impressive Breguet watches, it is probably the Breguet Classique 5177 that you think of when you consider modern watches from the brand, and there's a very good reason for that. Its spartan conservatism forces you to look for any notes of flair or extravagance, and you're rewarded all the more for it. Amidst the inky depths of the expansive Grand Feu enamel dial, you are treated to the classically proportioned silver Arabic numerals, finished with an expressive serif that speaks to its discreet élan. As we discuss in the video, while Breguet…

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Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT 05.11.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT

We have recommended taking a look at the master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin deconstructing various watches in the past, and that's because how interesting it is to get a proper look into some of the most popular watches out there. What makes this deconstruction by Peter interesting is that it is with the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT, a watch from a brand that has carved a name for itself thanks to the unparalleled levels of finishing to its cases and dials. But it does beg the question: is the interior of their watch movements — usually hidden from even the most prying…

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Affordable watch 05.11.2019

Affordable watch winners, just in time for summer

Editor's note: As summer is swiftly approaching (in the Southern Hemisphere), a couple of friends who are into watches and I have been increasingly keen on picking up a summer watch. The thing about a summer watch is that you don't want to break the bank when buying one, just in case you do only wear it during the summer. Which led me to thinking about the best watches that live for the summer months, but are also relatively affordable. Have a read, and let us know your favourite affordable watch for summer in the socials comments. Not everybody can…

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stone dial Omega Seamaster 05.11.2019

Mineral wealth with the stone dial Omega Seamaster

Exotic stone dials have always been popular with watch collectors, not only for their stunning beauty but also their typical rarity and the unique patterning from stone to stone. This same dial technique has been used in the two examples of stone dial Omega Seamaster 300s, a classic dive watch that is typically considered to be an under-the-radar daily wear watch – until you make the case in precious metal and the dial out of a semi-precious stone. Both the Omega Seamaster 300 with a lapis lazuli dial and a malachite dial express a kind of opulent excess that is…

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas 04.11.2019

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Editor's note: A couple of years ago, Andrew and the team were lucky enough to travel to Lord Howe Island to explore the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection and, in the process, enjoy the unbelievable scenery of volcanic spires and fish-filled shallows. While the setting was one of the most remarkable on earth, the focus was on one of the most remarkable brands on earth with a collection of watches that boast the Geneva Seal in a very sporty package. Enjoy the video! We gave a glimpse of our 48 hours in paradise with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection a month…

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breguet marine collection 04.11.2019

VIDEO: The Breguet Marine Collection

Earlier this year, Time+Tide celebrated the arrival of the 2019 Breguet collection in Australia. For those who attended, it was a night nobody would forget in a hurry, in part due to the impeccable setting, but mainly thanks to the sensational watches that were on display. Of these sensational watches, the real hero of the evening was the Breguet Marine Collection, which has a number of new additions to the family this year. In this collection, the thoughtful use of materials is immediately obvious. The titanium cases and bracelets of the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 and of the time-only Marine 5517…

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Blancpain dive watch 03.11.2019

Battle-ready beginnings of the Blancpain dive watch

Editor's note: Blancpain have been looking into their rich trove of dive watch archives to great success recently, reviving a number of classics that we have covered here, and here, as well as producing a stunning unique piece for Only Watch 2019 that James took a closer look at. But for those who might be slightly newer to the brand, exactly what makes a Blancpain dive watch so good? Well, a little while ago, Cameron Wong did some digging into exactly that question, and showed how Blancpain helped everyone from military spies to Hollywood actors with their dive watch needs.…

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Phillips Game Changers 03.11.2019

Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers

Later this year, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, are hosting the Game Changers auction, which will be offering some of the most important watches to ever meet the public market, including watches owned by golfer Jack Nicklaus, and actors Marlon Brando and Robert Downey Jr, as well as incredibly rare vintage examples of Patek Philippe, Rolex and LeCoultre. While the full catalogue for the Phillips Game Changers auction has not yet been made public, let's take a closer look at some of the highlights that are likely to get paddles in the air. The Jack Nicklaus' Rolex Day-Date…

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TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition 03.11.2019

Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches

This year we were lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the TAG Heuer Monaco. It was in the last year of the 1960s that the brand (just Heuer at the time) released their iconic watch that was one of the first ever automatic chronographs, and was cemented as a legend when it was seen on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the cinema classic Le Mans. To celebrate this very special watch, in 2019 they have released a series of five TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches (of 169 pieces per watch), with each part of the series representing…

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Bremont H-4 Hercules 02.11.2019

IN-DEPTH: The Bremont H-4 Hercules

The story in a second: The Bremont H-4 Hercules offers a tool watch, which could pair with a dinner jacket, and doesn't lose any Bremont DNA. In any piece of design, there is a source of inspiration that is at least, in part, responsible for the final product that you are looking at. In the case of the Bremont H-4 Hercules, the source of inspiration requires a look back over 70 years into the history books. The year was 1942, and the Second World War was at a peak in the conflict, with fierce battles being fought across land, air…

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Bremont H-4 Hercules 31.10.2019

VIDEO: The mythical Bremont H-4 Hercules

The Twelve Labours of Hercules were impressive, sure, but not quite as impressive as the aircraft that provided inspiration for the new Bremont H-4 Hercules. Killing lions and hydras requires strength and focus, but building a plane in 1947 that makes a modern-day Airbus A380 look small, requires the unbridled ambition and enthusiasm of a Texan billionaire – Howard Hughes. The H-4 Hercules (nicknamed the Spruce Goose thanks to its wooden construction) inspired the most recent limited edition from Bremont that pays respect to the history of the aircraft. Limited to 75 pieces in Rose gold, we were fortunate to…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm 29.10.2019

VIDEO: Graduating with the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm

As the 1960s drew to a close, the Swiss watch industry found itself entering one of the most significant periods of turmoil it would ever experience. Its response to the accurate and affordable watches coming out of Asia was not to compete in a race to the bottom — instead, the Swiss took the high road, and doubled down on the fact that watches would remain status objects even in the face of cheaper, practical quartz versions. The largest manufacturers in the world began producing luxury sports watches for the first time, and in the process they eschewed precious metals,…

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Omega Trésor 24.10.2019

VIDEO: A closer look at the Omega Trésor

Earlier this week, Felix took a closer look at a watch that has to be a frontrunner for nicest dress watch of the year, the blue dial Omega Trésor. While it's certainly a good-looking watch, there are two other members of the Trésor family that might even beat it to the punch. The Omega Trésor has also been released in a yellow gold case, and a steel case with a diamond bezel, both with the same svelte case shape. Each piece brings its own character to the table, but these two options offer a little bit of something extra, with the…

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Longines Heritage Classic "Sector Dial" 21.10.2019

6 of the best sector dial watches

As brands continue to successfully look to the past as they design watches for the present, a number of stylistic elements from as far back as the 1930s can be seen in modern watches. One of these anachronisms is the sector dial, an attractive layout of the dial that is typically defined by closed concentric circles that segment the dial. In this layout, there is a sense of order and control that comes from the portioned spaces of the dial, which remind a little of the structured designs of Art Deco, blended with the minimalism of the Bauhaus movement. As…

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Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection 19.10.2019

VIDEO: Mid-Century Magic with the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection

There was a lot going on in the middle of the 1960s. The space race was in full swing, the Australian dollar was introduced, and the launch of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection. This collection was launched alongside a number of other projects that Girard-Perregaux were working on, including being aggressively competitive in the Neuchâtel Observatory chronometry trials, and producing the first watch movement to beat at 10 beats per second or 36,000 times an hour. Today, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection lives on as cleanly sophisticated dress watches that have their designs rooted in the middle of last century, with movement…

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double signed dials 18.10.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials

In their upcoming auction, Phillips is focusing their attention on the finest examples of highly coveted double-signed dials. A double-signed dial is where a brand has allowed the name of the retailer that will sell the watch to appear on the dial, alongside the brand's name. Retailers that have had the opportunity to showcase their name on a watch dial include some of the most famous throughout history, including Tiffany & Co, Harrods, Wempe, Gübelin and Beyer. As a part of their authentication process, Phillips will attempt to contact each of the respective retailers (if they are still trading) to…

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Longines Heritage Classic "Sector Dial" 14.10.2019

INTRODUCING: Longines Heritage Classic with "Sector Dial"

Amidst the morass of vintage reissues that almost all brands seem to have tried their hand at recently, Longines has been successfully combing their archives for the best examples that translate to current tastes, and have done so with good success in recent years. Even in the context of their well-executed reissues of military, chronograph and diving watches of their past, their latest dip into the history books has to be one of their best, as well as one of the nicest looking watches of 2019. I would like to introduce you to the Longines Heritage Classic with a "Sector…

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Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50thAnniversary SRQ029J 13.10.2019

Celebrating half a century with the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J

Fifty years ago, Seiko released one of the first ever automatic chronograph movements in a watershed moment in watchmaking. To mark the occasion, Seiko has released the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J, a watch that smartly dances the line between heritage and modern. We got a chance to take a closer look at the new anniversary piece, with all the details in the video below. If you love sporty chronographs that have a historically significant place in the history of watchmaking then this could be the piece for you. It's well-sized at 41mm in diameter, features a movement with…

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Cartier Santos-Dumont 09.10.2019

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance

Cartier is a brand that doesn't reinvent the wheel, but instead gradually evolves their designs over decades, refining and purifying their core look with each year that goes by. For their latest collection, released at SIHH 2019, the focus was the Cartier Santos-Dumont, a dress watch that is both classically sized and slim, offering one of the most refined pieces of Cartier design we have seen in recent years. The new Cartier Santos-Dumont is available in two sizes (38mm x 27.5mm for the small model, and 43.5mm x 31.4mm for the large model) and both have managed to stay rakishly…

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition 07.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms looks like a lot of other watches out there, and there's a reason for that. The Fifty Fathoms was first. It was one of the first watches ever designed for diving and, as a result, has become almost the Universal Man of dive watches, where all watches that follow are derivative. Within the Fifty Fathoms family, there are many variations, but one of the most eye-catching of them all has inspired the reissue of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition. Originally, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was designed for French navy divers known as Nageurs de…

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Chopard Alpine Eagle 01.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a watch that has roots in the 1980s when their St. Moritz model was released. It was during a period when the stainless steel luxury sports watch boom was in full swing. Case in point, between 1980 and 1995, the St. Moritz model alone sold 50,000 pieces. Now, the St. Moritz has been reimagined with a contemporary flavour in terms of its design, as well as a number of technical developments that make the Chopard Alpine Eagle a genuine luxury wristwatch and reflect Chopard's endeavour to "treat steel as if it were gold". Also, the…

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Franck Muller in Melbourne 30.09.2019

EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne

The Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours landed in Melbourne last week, and not only was I fortunate to take a closer look at it, but the kind people at Franck Muller invited me to celebrate it with them at a dining event with some of their important local clients. It was a great opportunity to view the new collection, as well as share a meal with a group of like-minded watch enthusiasts. There were some special people seated around the dining table, including Franck Muller's global COO, Nicholas Rudaz, and Franck Muller's General Manager of Australia, Mr Heng, both of…

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Best 5 watches for under $5k 27.09.2019

Best 5 watches for under $5K at the Sotheby's Important Watches auction

At the upcoming Sotheby's Important Watches auction, you can browse the catalogue and find all manner of incredibly rare and important watches and clocks from all the best watchmakers in the world. There is everything you would expect, and more, including a possibly unique red dial Rolex Daytona, a factory gem-set yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master, a Rolex "Paul Newman" Daytona, and a Patek Philippe chronometer tested tourbillon pocket watch, all of which serve to make the Patek Philippe 5711 on offer look rather dull. But unless you're so wealthy that the Panama Papers were of personal concern to you, almost…

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Vanguard Crazy Hours 26.09.2019

INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive

In what is a meeting of two of the most significant collections from the Franck Muller manufacture, the Vanguard Crazy Hours is an exciting offering, made even more exciting with the news of an exclusive collection for Asia. The Vanguard Crazy Hours is the first time the brand has housed the famous Crazy Hours movement inside a Vanguard case shape, offering a feel that is more sporty and relaxed, to a caliber that inspires a more leisurely approach to time telling. It achieves this with a dial layout that is less than conventional, where the hour marker numerals are out of…

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Haven Watch Co. Chilton 21.09.2019

HANDS-ON: The Haven Watch Co. Chilton

In an unending stream of vintage-inspired wristwatches that are just a little bit off (you know what I mean), you cling to a watch that gets it right like a life raft. The Haven Watch Co. Chilton is exactly that life-saving device, with it tastefully sized at 37mm, and offering a visually compelling dial. Taking inspiration from the colourful yachting chronographs of the '70s, the Chilton has the details considered. The chronograph is available in two different dial colours, which are a creamy white or a deep midnight blue, both of which feature contrasting sub-dials in a compax layout. We…

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Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects division 17.09.2019

Looking at the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division

If you decided to buy a Bremont watch, you could go to your nearest Bremont boutique (or their online store) and buy almost any model in their catalogue that your heart desired. What you can't buy, however, are any of the pieces from the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division. These pieces are created specifically for elite military units around the world, produced with bespoke features, but all based on models in the core Bremont range. While these watches are typically created in collaboration with units from the US or British air forces and navies, Bremont has also produced…

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IWC Ingenieur AMG edition 08.09.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Zak M and his IWC Ingenieur AMG edition

While collaborations between watch brands and car manufacturers are not a new phenomenon, it's a much rarer phenomenon to meet a person who owns both the watch and its corresponding car. Once Zak had purchased his Mercedes AMG, he knew he needed to own the IWC Ingenieur AMG edition IW3725,  a watch that is cool beyond its automotive inspiration. When did you first see/hear about it? I heard about it a few years ago, but I didn't like it because of the curves in the case design. It eventually grew on me, and I was planning on saving up for…

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Bell & Ross BR05 05.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Bell & Ross BR05

For any brand creating a new collection, the challenge lies in the tension between aesthetic innovation and consistent design language. With the new Bell & Ross BR05, the brand has successfully maintained their core visual identity with a circular dial and squared-off case, exposed screws at the corners of the case, and bold Arabic numerals. The innovation begins most prominently with the integrated bracelet directly into the case, which is a departure from the more traditional Bell & Ross look. The softened curves of the polished bezel contrast sharply with the angles of the brushed steel lugs, creating visual depth…

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warehouse watch grey market 02.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch grey market isn't black and white

If you've ever looked to buy a watch on the internet, you will have invariably come across grey market watch websites offering a surprisingly good deal on the watch you are interested in. This leads to several questions about the broader mechanics of watch retail, and the watch grey market: Why would I buy from an Authorised Dealer if this is so much cheaper? How do these sites get the watches they are selling? Why do watch brands allow themselves to be undercut on price? All of these are fair questions; the answers of which are often challenging to find.…

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Omega Speedmaster Mark II ‘Rio 2016’ 02.09.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Travis Mahoney's Omega Speedmaster Mark II 'Rio 2016'

Representing your country at the Olympic Games is the dream of just about every kid who grows up doing a sport, especially Australian kids and swimming. The likes of Ian Thorpe, Grant Hackett and Michael Klim did wonders to boost the popularity of the sport in the Land Down Under, producing a fresh crop of talented young swimmers, including Travis Mahoney. Travis represented Australia at the Rio Olympics where he competed in the 400m Individual Medley, and commemorated his achievement with the acquisition of an Omega Speedmaster Mark II 'Rio 2016'. When did you first see/hear about it? I actually…

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Bob Hawke's Estate Auction 31.08.2019

We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke's estate auction, this is what happened

Bob Hawke's estate auction offered a chance to reflect on a man known equally well for his capacity to skol a pint of beer in record time (he broke a beer drinking Guinness World Record in 1954) and being a past Prime Minister of Australia. The auction took place in a venue that could only be described as aptly representative of our country's cross-sectional majority – an RSL in inner Sydney. It was an appropriate venue to celebrate the collected objects of one of Australia's most fondly remembered leaders, as it grounded you in a sense of not taking it…

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Panerai 177 25.08.2019

What Sealed The Deal – John J and his Panerai 177

The greatest love stories basically go a little like this: lovers meet and instantly fall for each other, other forces separate them and they may never be together, then the lovers are reunited and all is well in the universe. This is also the basic story of John and his Panerai 177, which should indicate the depths of his passion for this particular watch. When did you first see/hear about it? A couple of years ago, I had a Panerai 176, which is a very similar model to this one, but without the hacking seconds. I loved it, but I…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date 25.08.2019

INTRODUCING: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date limited edition

The Polaris collection was launched by Jaeger-LeCoultre last year to pay tribute to the dive watches produced by the brand in the '60s and '70s. Instantly recognisable with the super-compressor style case and internal bezel, the Polaris has been given a new look in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date. What makes this new edition different can be seen immediately in the dial, with a blend of finishes and shades of blue that place it at home in the water. The dial has three separate sections: the centre featuring a sun-rayed finish that looks almost liquid in its shimmer, which heavily contrasts…

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F.P. Journe 21.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Here's an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know

F.P. Journe is an interesting case in the expanding landscape of independent watchmaking. For a watchmaker that produces around 900 pieces per year, the brand is seen in all the right places, regularly winning prizes at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, and producing a watch for the Only Watch charity auction for its last three editions. But what can be a little confusing is just how the brand structures its collections – for that, here's an introduction to F.P. Journe. Watches from F.P. Journe can basically be broken down into three collections: the Souveraine Collection, the Octa Collection and…

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breitlign transocean 21.08.2019

"The watch that started it all for me" – Jean-Paul's Breitling Transocean

There's always one that started it all. The first taste that starts the passion. Like the first dunk that lit the flame in Jordan's heart. The first moment Phelps touched the end of a pool and knew he loved to win. Or the first piece in your collection that opened your eyes to the variety and complexity involved in the pursuit of good watches. For Jean-Paul, this was his first. A stunning Breitling Transocean ref. 1461 semi-perpetual calendar, that he picked up on his honeymoon in New York City. After four visits to the Wempe boutique, he decided to pull…

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brad pitt 2020 oscar watch 21.08.2019

What was Brad Pitt's watch in the latest Tarantino thriller?

Last night I went to see the new Quentin Tarantino film, Once Upon A Time In Hollywood, and while plot tension and A-grade acting kept me on the edge of my seat, I was kept guessing by what Brad Pitt's character was wearing on his wrist. So what was Brad Pitt's watch? As the movie progressed, I could tell it was a gold watch, worn on a bund strap, and it was a chronograph of some kind in a bullhead configuration (with the pushers at the top of the watch). But the brand escaped me. Was it a Seiko? A…

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two-tone watch 20.08.2019

Two-tone watch anxiety? Here's your solution

Editor's note: The two-tone watch seems to be having a resurgence of late, especially in the design studio of Tudor. While we first saw this in a subdued black dial Tudor S&G, the following year they gave us a champagne dial, and this year a two-tone chronograph on a bund strap no less. But two-tone watches aren't always easy to pull off, with the spectre of the '80s looming large in the peripheries of people's minds. To help you reconcile your desire to buy a two-tone watch, and your discomfort with Wall Street stereotypes, we have created a handy guide…

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Zaratsu polishing 19.08.2019

What is Zaratsu polishing? Its origins are less Japanese than you think

Seiko and its Grand sibling are well known for their technical skill in case finishing. This style of highly reflective polishing was first introduced into the Seiko family by watch designer Taro Tanaka, who came into the Japanese company to produce a holistic design language that was called "The Grammar of Design". One of the main tenants of this design language was for all of the flat surfaces of the watch case and hands to be polished to a mirror finish using a method called Zaratsu polishing. By maximising the interaction of the light with the flat surfaces of the…

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The problem with the GPHG 19.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The problem with the GPHG

First uncovered in the tomb of a 17th century Genevan clockmaker, the words which are now passed into lore: "Every time someone says the GPHG is the Oscars of the watch world, a bunny dies." So as to avoid the death of any more happy hoppers, I'll describe the GPHG as the biggest prize in watches each year. In saying that, there's a problem with the GPHG. While the GPHG is the biggest prize to be won, the competition is, as Felix eloquently put, "notably free of crowns and calatravas", bringing the elephant at the GPHG clearly into view. Some brands…

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18.08.2019

11 reasons MB&F are important for all watch lovers

Editor's note: The darling of the independent watch space, MB&F show no signs of slowing their release of weird and wonderful watches. Timepieces that often elicit a confused reception at first glance, MB&F clocks and watches become more delightful the longer you look at them, as you realise the playfulness at the heart of their designs. Let's take another look at why the brand matters, even if you aren't likely to become a customer. Recently we were invited to Sydney as guests of The Hour Glass for the hotly anticipated launch of MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) Horological Machine 6,…

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Breitling Triathlon Squad 17.08.2019

Why does the Breitling Triathlon Squad exist?

Watch companies are pretty happy to jump on board as sponsors of all number of sporting teams, including Formula 1, boxing or tennis, for the obvious reasons that they have massive viewerships and highly engaged fans. One sport that definitely isn't structured as a spectator-friendly sport is triathlon, begging the question as to why the Breitling Triathlon Squad exists. In the couple of years since current CEO Georges Kern took the helm of the company, Breitling has been gathering "squads" of notable people in trios of ambassadors. You might have heard of #squadonamission if you've ever visited the Breitling website,…

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TAG Heuer in Melbourne Event 16.08.2019

EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne

TAG Heuer is a brand that has always sat fondly in the hearts of Australians, with shared values of an active lifestyle spent outdoors. This week we were lucky enough to celebrate the launch of TAG Heuer's latest novelties, including the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph and the exciting Autavia Isograph. Both releases are significant because of the technology housed in them, which the crowd was fortunate enough to get a very close look at under the guidance of the TAG Heuer Master Watchmaker Shalen Gokoolparsadh.  Hosted at TAG Heuer's flagship boutique in Melbourne, a strong crowd gathered out…

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Doxa Sub 200 T.GRAPH Stainless Steel Limited Edition 16.08.2019

INTRODUCING: DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel Limited Edition

At Baselworld 2019, Doxa delivered a campaign of shock and awe with the release of a solid gold SUB 200 T.Graph that left Felix in the firm belief that the world was a better place for its existence. Today they have announced another SUB 200 T.Graph limited edition, this time in stainless steel, making it a much more affordable option than the circa AUD $100K the gold piece was asking. What makes the Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph stainless steel limited edition special is the historic Valjoux 7734 chronograph movement that Doxa have used. Stored by Doxa for decades, the brand…

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expensive watches 15.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Do expensive watches make you risky with money?

The upper echelons of the investment banking world are inhabited by people who are paid large sums of money to take risks. Some working within the hallowed halls of serious finance prefer lower-risk investments, and others enjoy the thrill of having a larger appetite for risky business. If you want to know how safe your money will be, you need to know how prone your investment manager is to seeking the thrill of a dangerous deal, so what if you could do that by looking at their wrist? In a post earlier this year by WatchRant, a collection of reviews…

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citizen chronomaster 15.08.2019

Accurate AF – the Citizen Chronomaster limited editions

This year, Citizen got the watch world talking about quartz watches in a positive light with the release of the Caliber 0100, the wristwatch version of a piece-unique pocket watch they released in 2018. This release seemed to take some by surprise, but Citizen, just like their countrymen at Seiko, have been making very accurate quartz watches for some time. A flagship model in their collection is the Citizen Chronomaster, a watch that has just been released in new limited edition dial colours.   The Citizen Chronomaster is now available with a regular production blue dial, as well as both…

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Must De Cartier Tank 15.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so

Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the '70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, becoming the Chairman of Cartier in 2000. Besides his developed business acumen, Franco Cologni also has a developed handle on the English language, expressing opinions eloquently in the journal of the FHH, where he is also President of the FHH Cultural Council. In one recent…

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Bau Swatch 14.08.2019

In the Haus with the new Bau Swatch Collection

To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the Bauhaus design movement, Swatch have released the Bau Swatch Collection of 25 new watches inspired by the pre-WWII German school of design. The Bauhaus design philosophy has had significant impact on a number of watch designs over the years, including from Patek Philippe, Nomos and Stowa. Now Swatch have joined the fray, with an appropriately designed collection that celebrates the different elements of the design school's ideas. If you're interested in browsing the entire 25-watch collection, you're able to visit them at the Swatch site, but before you do, these are our highlights.…

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auctionlytics 13.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Does the collectible watch change over time?

If you've been reading what I've been reading over the last couple of weeks, you'll have noticed I'm particularly interested in how the primary and secondary watch markets interact with each other, and what that looks like in specific contexts like an auction room. All that leads to is a question: does the collectible watch change over time? One Instagram account I've been following with great interest for a little while is @AuctionLytics, a page that tracks the watch auction market and shares their data-driven insights with followers. They also share longer-form insights on their blog, and while they've been…

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Longines connection to horse racing 13.08.2019

Why is Longines' connection to horse racing so strong?

Editor's note: In the run-up to the horse racing season in Australia, we thought we'd have a look at a brand with a long history in the world of horse racing. Andrew had the opportunity to sit down with the then-VP of Longines Juan-Carlos Capelli to get to the bottom of Longines' connection to horse racing, which was established more than one hundred years ago. Earlier this year, we interviewed the Vice President of Longines in the hours before the Queen Elizabeth Stakes horse race at Royal Randwick in Sydney. In the polite small-talk before the interview, we asked Mr…

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Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 13.08.2019

Un-GPHG 2019 – the watches we wish would win

Every year the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) provides a point of interest for the watch community. Long after the hype of SIHH and Baselworld has died down, it's a chance to catch our breath, look back at the year that was, and assess how many good watches were made in the preceding 12 months. The entrants for 2019 were recently released, with 150 different watches across 14 categories, all self-nominating as the best in their class. As per tradition, a good portion of the watch media (including us) offers predictions on those that will be successful that year,…

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Serica W.W.W 12.08.2019

INTRODUCING: The very versatile Serica W.W.W.

Watch collectors will listen, wide-eyed and slack-jawed, to stories about grandfathers in the '60s wearing a Daytona while changing the oil in an engine, only giving the watch a quick wipe with a rag before dinner was served. This is so far from the present-day reality that a watch that was once a functional nice-to-have is now being traded by people who went to finance school. What happened to the everyday watch? This was the question posed by a quartet of men who couldn't find a good-looking watch that didn't cause the heart rate to rise when nearing a doorknob.…

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Patek Philippe Ref 2526 12.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this the perfect Patek Philippe?

Patek Philippe are not known for hi-tech carbon composite case materials, skeleton dials, or really any enthusiastic contemporary flair. What they are known for is being the priest of the Temple of Classicism, considered and purposeful in any direction of development, refusing to bend to ephemeral market tastes. The clearest way this can be seen is how little the design DNA (yes, I know you think that term is overused, GaryG) of their watches has changed over the last century. This lack of dramatic change forces those interested into the trenches of granularity to ascertain the importance of any particular…

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Melbourne Rolex Service Center 12.08.2019

Finding satisfaction at the Melbourne Rolex Service Centre

Editor's note: A couple of years ago, life got a lot easier for the Melbourne Rolex collector. Rolex Australia blessed the coffee-obsessed city with a shiny new service centre, a move that made the already appealing prospect of buying a Rolex even more appealing, with the knowledge that a repair would be as pain-free as possible. Let's take a look back at when Felix got to visit the centre shortly after it opened. One of the biggest issues in this industry is what happens to a watch long after it leaves the boutique on the wrist of its happy new…

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Australian Watch Forum 12.08.2019

The Australian Watch Forum's first collaboration watch

Editor's note: The Australian Watch Forum has gone from strength to strength over the last 18 months, tripling its membership to 9000 members. Based on Facebook, their presence has been felt well outside of social media, with regular meet-ups and get-togethers in major cities across Australia. Here's a throwback to Cam's nod to their first venture with a big watch brand, when they partnered with Zenith last year to release a bronzed-case Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, featuring a special Southern Cross on the dial. During a time when planes were more fabric than steel, and I'm sure the phrase…

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Doxa Telemetre Watch Luxury 11.08.2019

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers?

Editor's note: Everyone knows Doxa make a great dive watch, but not as many people know they also produced excellent chronographs in the 1940s and '50s. This is the story of one of those watches, a black dial Doxa chronograph with a spiral telemeter scale, worth significantly more than the €1200 Paul originally laid down for it. Enjoy. WHAT IS THE STORY OF THIS WATCH? I bought it at the Munich Watch Fair a few years back for 1200 euro. I've since been offered 5000 euro for it. I've collected watches since I was 11. My grandfather gave me a…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato 11.08.2019

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm, a sleeper in steel

Editor's note: In the world of luxury steel sports watches, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato family is underrated. More than two centuries since they started making watches, the Laureato is made by a brand that has some of the richest history in horology. In that time, Girard-Perregaux have added significantly to the art of mechanical watchmaking, with their three golden bridges tourbillon movement and their design of the first high-frequency watch which beats ten times per second. The Laureato family is also dripping in a '70s charm that stems from the mix of curves and angles, and the blending of polished and brushed…

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Patek Philippe Calatrava 11.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Everything you didn't know about the Patek Philippe Calatrava

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is probably the most recognisable time-only collection of watches in Swiss watchmaking. Simple, three-handed watches made in precious metal that represent what Patek Philippe is about in its most distilled form – restrained classicism made to exacting standards. In this article by The Hour Glass, the history of the Calatrava is investigated, focusing on the most important models made in the nearly 90 years since the first reference was produced. Even though the core elements of the Calatrava have stayed the same, the number of variations over the years has seen the establishment of collectors-inspired scholarship…

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Sotheby's Australia 10.08.2019

I went to my first watch auction, here's what I found

I was equal parts excited and curious when a package from Sotheby's Australia landed on Felix's desk last month. Upon opening, it revealed a catalogue for their upcoming Important Jewels auction, and while the jewellery portion of the catalogue was full of fabulous gems and precious metals, I was obviously much more interested in the wristwatches on offer. While reading the catalogue I noticed that despite watch lots being comparatively few in number, there were several great pieces, including representation from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and Heuer. One of the rarer pieces heading for the block was a Heuer Autavia…

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What do collectors really look for 08.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: What do collectors really look for?

What do collectors really look for when they are already at the top of the watch game? Rarity? Provenance? Complexity? All are true for different collectors, with some placing value on the design of a timepiece, and others on condition. This variety is what keeps it interesting in the stratospheric peaks of the collecting world, where money is no object and the hunt is the source of the thrill. For collector Leon Botstein, president of Bard College and orchestra conductor, his interest lies in both pocket watches and wristwatches that were produced without the aid of computers. He describes his…

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08.08.2019

The Seiko 5 is alive – again

For decades, the Seiko 5 collection has been some of the best-value mechanical watchmaking on the planet. The ability to buy an automatic watch with an in-house movement for only a few hundred dollars must be responsible for introducing tens of thousands of people around the world to watches. You would be hard-pressed to find many watch collectors out there who haven't owned a Seiko 5 at one point in their collecting journey. And while many of the big Swiss brands would hate to admit it, the watch industry is a much better place for the existence of the Seiko…

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IWC Big Pilot 08.08.2019

The IWC Big Pilot flying higher than ever

Editor's note: Ergonomics have always been at the forefront of design for the IWC Big Pilot, with the large legible dial and oversized onion crown perfect for low-light cockpit conditions, and use with flight gloves. Despite this, it was a significant move when IWC took the design to a new place, with the Big Pilot Edition 'Right-Hander'. It now features the crown on the left-hand side of the case, to avoid uncomfortable digging into the back of the hand or wrist. While we are still digesting this design update, we wanted to look back at the Big Pilot that started…

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exit watch 07.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Alfredo Paramico on the vintage watch market

Alfredo Paramico doesn't look like a watch collector. Living in Miami Beach, he looks more like an action hero, tanned like Baywatch and ripped like Schwarzenegger, and clad from head to toe in the latest designer capsules. However, in spite of this initial Wooster-esque impression, he is in fact one of the most well-known collectors of vintage watches in the world. A former merchant banker turned investor and watch dealer, he has amassed a collection worth an estimated $25 million. An offshoot of his own collecting behaviour is Elite Advisers, an investment fund devoted to collectible watches that are expected…

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Lange 1 06.08.2019

Lange 1 – an expression of balance and refinement

Editor's note: In 1994, A. Lange & Söhne released a watch that would go on to be one of their most recognisable designs to date. The Lange 1 is an expression of what the brand does best: manufacturing a dial layout that is less than traditional, but with a tension in its design that suggests it is the product of decades of refinement. A masterful balance of introducing new ideas while using a level of refinement that implies rich history. Let's take another look at this example of poised asymmetry. The story in a second: Lange give their icon a…

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Sinn 104 St Sa I W 06.08.2019

Cockpit to couch, the Sinn 104 St Sa I W

Editor's note: Sinn is a brand that is about the best in the business when it comes to nailing affordable profession-specific watches, the most obvious of which are divers and pilots. The common denominator for both jobs is a requirement for tools that are unwaveringly reliable in their performance. This is something that Sinn are renowned for, in their ability to produce watches that are incredibly hard-wearing, made from materials that have lifespans beyond that of their owners. Let's take a look back at one such pilot's watch, the Sinn 104 St Sa I W. Famous for their formidable and…

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Watch Art Grand Exhibition 06.08.2019

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore

In its fifth iteration, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition will be hosted in Singapore for the first time. Placed to emphasise the importance of Southeast Asian clients and collectors for Patek Philippe, the show will offer public insight to a number of the artefacts that typically remain in Geneva at the Patek Philippe Museum. The show will also launch a series of rare handcrafts and special-edition watches inspired by the artistic expression of the region. The show will be hosted free of charge in an 1800-square metre space at the Marina Bay Sands Theatre in Singapore, divided into…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 05.08.2019

Looking through Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

Editor's note: Make no bones about it, skeleton watches are not to everyone's taste. Legibility is sometimes less clear than a watch with a solid dial, but this is because time telling is almost ancillary to the stunning exposé that the watch offers. A skeleton dial offers a view typically reserved for a watchmaker in search of a problem, with any warmth offered by the layperson's intrigue, evaporated under the cool white lights of a workbench. So let's take another look at one of the best-looking skeleton dials out there. One of the finest open-worked watches on the market right…

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A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date 05.08.2019

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date – the digital watch with no battery

When you think digital watch, the first thing that comes to mind might be a Casio, with a clear digital display, a couple of functions and a light. You don't think mechanical watch, and you certainly don't imagine a watch that has its place in the upper echelons of haute horology. But this is exactly what you get with the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date, a watch with a clear digital display, and now with an additional function. First released in 2009, the Zeitwerk was a new way to communicate time with a mechanical wristwatch, employing a pair of…

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Edouard Meylan 04.08.2019

Why Edouard Meylan sells watches smarter

Editor's note: Many executives in the Swiss watch industry are boring. They went to finance school, and they sell watches by looking at a balance sheet, never finding any of the watches in their own catalogue inspiring, and therefore never inspiring anyone to buy one. This could not be further from the truth for Edouard Meylan, the CEO of H. Moser & Cie. In this interview he gives a crash course on start-up marketing in the watch world (where interesting strategies have come to life recently), and discusses why he was once waiting for legal letters from Apple. It's both…

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why are there jewels in a watch 04.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why are there jewels in a watch?

Jewels are typically things you imagine adorning lavishly dressed socialites, or existing in piles that form the sleeping places of greedy dragons, so why are they so important in watchmaking? The reason is not frequently talked about, despite the number of jewels in a movement being communicated as a standard piece of mechanical information, and generally an indication of the quality of the movement. But it still begs the question: why are there jewels in a watch? As they discuss, the main reason for them is not decorative, but the properties of their synthetic mineral hardness. Apart from diamond, rubies…

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03.08.2019

Keeping tradition alive at the Cartier Métiers d'Art

Editor's note: Why is this unassuming looking farmhouse in the Swiss countryside so important to a brand as large as Cartier? Because it houses the workshop for Cartier's Maison des Métiers d'Art, sanctuary to a set of artistic skills and techniques that are hundreds of years old. It is in this farmhouse that some of the most skilled craftspeople in the world are tasked with painstakingly producing the high-jewellery part of Cartier's collection. Cartier's Maison des Métiers d'Art It is impossible to overstate the importance of tradition to the Swiss watch industry. It's a business, after all, built on skills…

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03.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising?

If you love watches, you probably want to wear them all the time. The past CEO of The Swatch Group Nicolas Hayek was famous for wearing half-a-dozen watches at one time, and even if you aren't quite that eccentric, you might still feel like you're missing something when you don't wear a watch. But this begs the question, should you wear a watch when exercising? There are no hard and fast rules about mechanical watches and exercising, other than personal comfort, and potential damage to the watch. If you are comfortable wearing a watch while you exert yourself, and aren't…

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Tudor in Australia 02.08.2019

Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here's why

Editor's note: Not many know it, but Australia was one of the most important markets for Hans Wilsdorf as he built the businesses of Rolex and Tudor in the early part of the 20th century. Tudor watches have been in Australia for the best part of 100 years, proving that Australians know great value when they see it — value the brand continues to offer today. While our American and English cousins have only recently rediscovered the joys of Tudor watches (relaunching in the American market in 2013 and the UK in 2014), Australia can stand proud in the knowledge that…

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Gerald Genta 02.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Gérald Genta archives

If you're reading this, you probably know who Gérald Genta is, and if you don't, you probably recognise the name. He was the most prolific watch designer of the 20th century, having been the source of inspiration for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Omega Constellation. He designed for everyone, from Universal Genève and IWC, to Cartier and Bulgari, leaving his fingerprints on the majority of the most loved watches in production today. Considering his level of impact, it is exciting when more detail is uncovered about the artist's life, which has happened through the…

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Omega factory 30.07.2019

BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses

The Swatch Group have published their 2019 Half-Year Report, revealing some interesting information. The group has reported an increase in their inventory levels, which include components, movements and watches, to a total of 7.1 billion Swiss francs (up 2.6 per cent from 2018). More broadly, the group, which owns brands such as Tissot, Longines and Omega, has reported a 3.7 per cent dip in sales compared to the previous year, attributing a portion of this negative result to efforts against the grey market, which undercut their retail channels by selling watches at heavily reduced prices.   Swatch Group have taken…

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Top 3 watches that could save your life 30.07.2019

Call of Duty need to add these watches to their next game

The new Call of Duty trailer was dropped last week, and it featured an interesting horological detail that was noticed by one eagle-eyed Reddit user. As discussed in an article by Kotaku, the time displayed on the wrists of the game characters will read the local time of the person playing, adding a very cool in-game detail. While here at Time+Tide we are less concerned with the "grave ludonarrative consequences" (yes, I had to look up what ludonarrative meant) and more interested in how this could add another way for players to customise their characters. So while we don't anticipate…

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yellow gold Rolex Day-Date 30.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is the yellow gold Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous?

In the past, owning a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date meant something different to what it does now. It was the President's watch, worn by those who controlled the destinies of millions around the world, making daily decisions that mattered. Now the perception of the Day-Date is influenced by rappers and Instagram hustlers, offering an ostentatious feeling that hints at missing parental attention during formative childhood years. Sean makes a strong argument to change this with his Love Letter to the Rolex Day-Date. While he acknowledges this unfortunate shift in perception through some contemporary wearers, he focuses our attention on the…

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Grand Seiko SBGN007 29.07.2019

MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Grand Seiko SBGN007

When most watch collectors hear the word quartz they think cheap, mass-produced and soulless. If a watch isn't mechanical, it isn't worth talking about, thinking about, and definitely not buying, which are sentiments I broadly agree with. As I wrote here, mechanical watches have a combination of nostalgic charm and independent reliability that I love alongside thousands of watch enthusiasts around the world. So why then did I buy a quartz watch that costs the same as some mechanical Swiss watches? Let me explain why I bought the Grand Seiko SBGN007, and how I feel about the purchase six months…

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Bulgari Roma 1975 28.07.2019

The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch

Editor's note: This year, the Bulgari watch department celebrated its fifth year in a row of record-breaking watches with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. While some in the watch industry are still coming to terms with the horological success of a brand with roots in jewellery, Bulgari have actually been making watches since 1975. A couple of years ago, Andrew had the opportunity to see the first ever watch from the brand, the Bulgari Roma, when it was on display at the Tokyo National Museum. He captured his impressions at the time, and told the legend of why it…

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chrono24 28.07.2019

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market

There are a lot of great podcasts out there on the world of watches, but the guys over at Worn & Wound do a particularly good job. One of the things they are great at is finding interesting people to speak with, which they did when they interviewed Tim Stracke, the C0-CEO and Founder of Chrono24, an online watch marketplace. Chrono24 has been growing significantly over the last few years, and in 2018 the total value of transactions that originated from the site increased by 30 per cent to €1.3 billion. The platform is also leveraging the huge amount of…

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Sotheby's Australia Important Jewels Auction 28.07.2019

T+T Highlights: Sotheby's Australia Important Jewels Auction

Next month, Sotheby's Australia are hosting their Important Jewels Auction in Melbourne, with a catalogue that includes a small collection of watches. The focus of the offering is obviously heavily on jewellery, however it is great to see a large local auction house include a few interesting watches, too. After passing the catalogue around the office this morning, there are a couple of standout pieces that were T+T team favourites. Felix (Editor) – HEUER AUTAVIA AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH "JO SIFFERT" The classic, cushiony case and panda dial with just the right amount of pop. The motor sports legacy doesn't hurt either.…

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5 most unattainable watches 27.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn?

Much has been written about the growth of the pre-owned watch market in recent years, but just how long has this been happening, and will watches hold their value during a recession? With consecutive seasons of watch auctions breaking all-time records, luxury conglomerate Richemont spending an estimated €200m to acquire second-hand dealer Watchfinder & Co just over 12 months ago, and brands such as Audemars Piguet announcing their intention to sell their own pre-owned watches, there is a current land-grab for control over the lucrative pre-owned market. Beyond specific pre-owned markets, something is happening in the retail watch market too,…

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Rolex-Metorite-GMT 26.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rare rocks? The truth about Rolex meteorite dials

It isn't every day you look out the window and see a meteor shower. In fact, it's a newsworthy event when anyone is lucky enough to catch one on film. So I don't think you would be going out on a limb to say that they are fairly uncommon events, causing you to assume that meteorite is a pretty rare mineral to come by, and it must be very expensive. How then are so many watch companies producing timepieces with meteorite dials? One of the most talked about watches from Baselworld 2019 was a white gold Rolex GMT-Master II with…

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25.07.2019

T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender?

Here at Time+Tide HQ, the banter is fast, free-flowing and deeply uninteresting for anyone who doesn't love watches. Sometimes this spitballing makes it beyond our four humble walls, such as when the team built a fantasy $20K watch collection, and this is another one of those occasions. The question posed to the team this time: "If you had to wear a watch marketed at a different gender, what would it be?" This isn't to say that people can't wear whatever watches they want (I love wearing a watch which could be argued is a women's watch), but is just taking…

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24.07.2019

Counting down why we love the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321

Watch lovers across the planet have been collectively holding their breath this year, eagerly waiting for Omega to release a commemorative watch to celebrate humanity launching away from the planet. It was 50 years ago that American astronauts left the safety of their lunar module and stepped onto the surface of the Moon, with Omega Speedmasters strapped to their wrists. The Moon landings were the most viewed event in human history, with an estimated 650 million people around the world watching Neil Armstrong take a giant leap for mankind. Needless to say, Omega hasn't forgotten its involvement with the mission,…

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Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time 23.07.2019

Why a man of style loves the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time

Editor's note: This is a throwback to the time we chatted to one of the best-looking blokes in Melbourne about his (then) new Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time. As Sam predicted, he didn't think this would be a watch that would look dated as the years passed, and he was right — the classic proportions, the cathedral hands and warmth from the bronze bezel all contribute to a sense of timelessness. The Montblanc 1858 Collection was launched in 2015, and the heritage styling of the family of watches has endured to their latest releases at SIHH 2019, with bronze cues also…

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23.07.2019

Everything you need, nothing you don't – the best two-handed watches of 2018

There comes a time in the journey of every watch collector when the pursuit of the most complicated watch loses its shine, as you start to wonder if there is real meaning to be found by having a ninth tourbillon in your watch. You stop stressing if your chronograph has a vertical clutch, and wonder if you will remember the tide-indicator complication on your watch as you lie on your death bed. To yearn for something simpler, something that just tells you the time is perfectly natural, and surely in part a reason why designs that are classic and timeless…

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23.07.2019

Timelessness of Grand Seiko design language

Editor's note: Being first is important. It awards you the privilege of being looked back on as the original, the source of all that follows you, and an example of the maverick intent that got things started. For Grand Seiko, their prototypical watch was released in 1960, an expression of cleanly refined classicism that established the foundation of the brand as we know it today. Unpretentious, accurate, and a level of finishing that approaches perfection. In 2017 Grand Seiko decided to pay tribute to that first example made in the Suwa Seikosha factory, and produced a steadfast reissue that is…

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rolex day-date 40 22.07.2019

The Rolex Day-Date 40, olive-green goodness

Editor's note: While #BlueWatch Monday has inspired 24,000+ posts on Instagram, I wanted to start the week with a watch in the same chromatic neighbourhood, specifically the Rolex Day-Date 40 with olive green dial. Without a doubt, this has to be one of the best-looking Day-Dates that Rolex has ever produced (yes, I said one of the best, Mirka), with the warmth of the olive green sunburst dial perfectly complementing the radiant Everose gold case and bracelet. The other detail Rolex nailed with this watch is the faceted Roman numerals, which catch and reflect the light in the same way…

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TAG Heuer Monaco blue dial 16.07.2019

The Mighty Monaco, TAG Heuer's CAW211P

Editors's note: If you are reading this, and I were a gambling man, I'd guess you were aware that 2019 is a special year in the world of watches. One of the significant reasons is that TAG Heuer are celebrating the 50th anniversary of the release of the Monaco Chronograph, their angular cult classic. To mark the occasion, TAG Heuer are releasing five limited edition Monaco watches to appropriately commemorate the half-century birthday (three of which have been released so far, here, here and here). So we wanted to look at this interpretation of the classic Monaco, released in 2015. …

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Rolex Daytona Rainbow most exciting chronographs of 2018 15.07.2019

15 of the best gold watches from 2019

Gold watches are looked on a spectrum. This is typically between gaudy expressions of personal wealth, and precious metal celebrations of horological handiwork. Wherever your personal perspective sits on this scale, at some point in your watch-loving life, you will find yourself looking with adoration at a gold watch (Andy wrote how best to deal with this feeling). As John Mayer said once about the Rolex Rainbow Daytona, "When people see (them) in person, they all kind of give in and go, yeah I get it." This (almost guilty) look down at the heavier part of the watch counter led…

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F.P Journe Elégante 48MM Titalyt 13.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why did auctioneer Aurel Bacs buy a modern quartz watch?

If you haven't heard of Aurel Bacs, that is something that needs to change. While the word influencer has been irreparably ruined by people who use Instagram at the beach, it is one of the most fitting words to describe his impact on the global vintage watch market. The founder of the watch department at Phillips, he still runs the business with his wife Livia Russo under the name Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, responsible for a string of records that places him in a league of his own at the rostrum. As you might expect, given he…

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Marlon Brando Rolex GMT front 12.07.2019

Marlon Brando's Apocalypse Now Rolex to be auctioned by Phillips

Marlon Brando's Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675, worn by him on the set of Apocalypse Now, is to be auctioned by Phillips Watches Department. The story was broken by the New York Times, with the provenance of the piece being traced from Brando, who in 1995 gave the watch to his adopted daughter Petra Brando Fischer, who in turn gifted the watch to her husband Russel Fischer as a wedding present in 2003. The Rolex GMT-Master in question is a relatively classic ref. 1675, with a few interesting customisations added by Marlon Brando. While shooting Apocalypse Now, a member of the…

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Sarpaneva Korona K0 Northern Lights lume dial 12.07.2019

6 of the best lume dial watches

A brief history of luminous watch dials Murphy's Law states, "A man with one watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure." In watch collecting circles this is invariably true, but the number of watches in a collection is likely proportionate to the mania of the addiction, rather than proportionate to how punctual the collector might be. It also seems to be true that you need to know what time it is most urgently when you don't have a clock nearby. This seems to happen generally at night, when you wake in a panic,…

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12.07.2019

Mirka Federer and the coolest Rolex Day-Date ever

Editor's note: Is this the coolest Rolex Day-Date ever? Regardless of how you answer that question, this is objectively one of the rarest watches Rolex has manufactured in recent years, with it being conspicuously absent from any Rolex catalogue or website. We spotted Mark Wahlberg wearing one on Ellen, but more excitingly, we also noticed Mirka Federer wearing one at the Australian Open in 2017. Given her husband is currently playing (quite well) at Wimbledon, we thought it might bring him some good luck if we reminded the world just how good Mirka's taste in watches is.  430,000 euros of…

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Longines Heritage Military COSD 11.07.2019

A look back at the Longines Heritage Military COSD

Editor's note: As evidenced by the release of the popular Heritage Military watch, Longines have a long history in manufacturing reliable tool watches for the world's armed forces. One that is sometimes overlooked today, but got people talking when it was first released, is the Longines Heritage Military COSD. A considered nod to the watches the brand produced around the time of WWII, the Military COSD is another strong contender for an everyday watch — with a 40mm case,  super-legible dial, and workhorse movement, there is a lot right about this watch. Felix has the full story below.  The story in…

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11.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch

As you might have noticed (here, here and here), I'm quite interested in bulletproof watches being used in situations with bullets (figuratively). I enjoy, as much as the next guy, reading about the (somewhat theoretical) limits of well-made watches, if it be temperature, altitude or water pressure. But what I love even more is reading true stories of watches in dangerous situations and seeing how they perform. I also suspect that I am not alone in being a passionate consumer of horological testimonials that fall outside of a marketing budget, with there being an evident growth in interest in watches…

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Tudor Black Bay "Smiley" 11.07.2019

Half a decade with the Tudor Black Bay Blue

Editor's note: We remember back when times were simpler. Back before there were half-decade waitlists, before secondhand watches were doubling retail prices, and before everything Tudor made was in-house. It was back in 2014 when Tudor first showed us the versatility of the Black Bay range, and the brand deeply impressed the watch community when they released the Black Bay Blue. This was also the year when Time+Tide started, and Felix's review of this new Black Bay Blue was one of the most popular stories on the site for a long time. So we thought we'd look back at this simple…

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CHANEL BOY.FRIEND SKELETON CALIBRE 3 10.07.2019

The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018

Skeleton dials are interesting, not because they offer a garish look at something exposed but because they showcase the sheer level of complexity involved in modern watchmaking. Without searching for photos of the movement of your watch online, or doing a John Goldberger (and opening your million dollar Rolex 4113 with a cheese knife), the regular watch enthusiast can't just look at the mechanism of their watch. A skeleton dial offers a view of the mechanism that is less invasive, and more intimate, by offering a window into a part of the watch usually saved for the eyes of watchmakers.…

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Nims Bremont S300 Supermarine Bremont 08.07.2019

5 Mount Everest watches that are literally high horology

As long as the internet and watch enthusiasts exist, there will be arguments about what the first watch on Mount Everest was. But rather than discussing semantic possibilities of the interpretation of 60-year-old advertisements, we wanted to look at a selection of Mount Everest watches (not just which was first). Smiths de Luxe   The source of much argument and marketing budget, the Smiths de Luxe was taken to the summit of Mount Everest. The dispute lies in whether the watch was worn on the wrist or kept in a pocket, but, regardless, it was carried in some fashion to…

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711-1R 08.07.2019

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel

Editor's note: The year is 2019, and solid gold is worth less than steel. While this seems strange on the face of it, especially to those more recently in the horological hobbit hole, steel doesn't look like it's getting less shiny anytime soon. So taking a macro view of the watch buying landscape, gold pieces with siblings on the stainless steel hype train represent a comparatively strong value proposition. So we decided to have a look back at one of the best looking rose gold watches from 2015, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711-1R. The story in a second: Patek Philippe…

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Halios Seaforth - summer watches 08.07.2019

A taste of summer (watches), for everyone in winter right now

Editor's note: Wouldn't it be great if you could start every day with a sunrise, without having to get out of bed early? Felix makes the case that this is possible thanks to the Halios Seaforth, featuring a dial as radiant as the morning sun, without a price tag that gives you sunstroke. The other reason it's worth revisiting this watch is, as Type7 noticed, it seems like everyone with an Instagram account is in Greece at the moment, making all of us in the southern hemisphere very jealous. Summer watches like this one will keep us warm till November.  …

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07.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Cultural perceptions of time aren't all straightforward

Here at Time+Tide, we write a lot about watches. What we don't write about as much is what the watches are actually communicating to us — time. And while time seems fairly straightforward (or is it straightbackward?) as a concept, cultural perceptions of time are highly variable, with these differences impacting language, writing and commercial activity of different people around the world. In Australia, it's common to talk about the past being behind us, with the future in front of us. But some people see the past as downhill and the future uphill, with others thinking about the past as being…

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Dan Henry 1970 06.07.2019

The Dan Henry 1962 is coming soon, will it be as good as the DH 1970?

Editor's note: Yesterday, Dan Henry teased us with the news of a new watch to be released on July 8. The only real clues on what the watch is going to be is the name, the Dan Henry 1962, and that it will be a racing chronograph (confirmed in the comments of the post). The brand has a trend of releasing themed watches tied to quintessential designs of the year in their name (as well as the number of units per edition being the same number as the year), meaning we can look at vintage watches from the likes of…

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A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia 06.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An introduction to the watch internet

Despite what many may think, the birth of the watch internet happened a long time before Instagram was around. Back in those days (in an almost Grecian purity), the forum was king, with moderators wielding the sword of truth, slaying inaccurate idiots with all of the mercy Zeus was known for. These forums, most popularly TimeZone and WatchUSeek, were where WIS from around the world would congregate to politely* discuss watches in all shapes and forms. It was a mandatory introduction to the watch internet for any enthusiast. A few folk rose to notoriety in these online communities, including the…

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Rolex GMT Pepsi BLRO 05.07.2019

The most interesting watch bracelets of 2018

Thanks to their central function in the time-telling process, watch dials often get a significant amount of coverage in the horological media. But this often ignores the thing that keeps the dial on your wrist in the first place — the bracelet or strap. Considering the most customisable part of a watch is the bracelet — and what it looks like has significant impact on how the watch actually looks on the wrist — we wanted to look into the most interesting watch bracelets of 2018. G-SHOCK GMWB5000TFG-9 35TH ANNIVERSARY GOLD ALL METAL MASTERPIECE The one that started it all 35 years ago…

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Dirty Dozen British World War 2 Military Watches 04.07.2019

Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today?

The "Dirty Dozen" are watches produced by the 12 British Ministry of Defence contractors during World War II who were tasked with strapping watches to the wrists of allied forces. While some of the brands are bigger and better than ever before, a few have slid into relative obscurity or the books of insolvency firms. I wanted to take a look at which of the Dirty Dozen survive today … Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today? During the Second World War, the MoD took the opinion that civilian watches weren't up to the task of providing accurate timekeeping to…

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Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds 03.07.2019

Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018

While orange might be the new black, another obvious trend in the contemporary watch market is the lean towards heritage styling. This has been a consistent motif across the industry for a number of years now, but 2018 was a year when the number of heritage watches almost eclipsed those with more contemporary design. In the spirit of people loving old stuff better than new stuff, I wanted to shine the spotlight on a few pieces that are some of the best heritage watches of 2018.   HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL Sometimes we come across watches that present such a…

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Cartier-Panther-Revelation-3 03.07.2019

6 of the best women's watches of 2018

Half a decade ago, Time+Tide published a story, citing that by 2020 there would be more female millionaires in Britain than male, leaving it to the brands to respond to this shift. As we also mentioned here, women's watches are so often an afterthought from brands, typically taking a men's model and either shrinking it down or sinking a few stones into the bezel/lugs. While this still occurs, there are a number of brands that are working hard to have an independent women's collection under their roof, which is refreshing to see. Last year, Baselworld had a number of women's watches…

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Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain Rexhep Rexhepi Blue Dial 02.07.2019

LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019

The eighth edition of Only Watch is underway, with the release of the unique pieces offered by the 50 brand partners. After raising 40 million Swiss francs in the last seven editions, Only Watch is one of the most important charity auctions on the calendar, with Only Watch raising money for research into muscular dystrophy. The watches are set to depart on a global tour of Christie's salesrooms, starting in Monaco, under the patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco, who is a strong supporter of the auction. With more than four-dozen brands offering unique watches for…

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Grand Seiko dial 02.07.2019

Dialled in – the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018

As we naturally personify the objects we come into contact with, the hour and minute indicators on a watch become articulating hands, and the dial becomes a face. Just as we will closely study the faces of the people around us, we search for meaning in the faces of our watches as we read the time, giving watchmakers huge incentive to design the most interesting dials for our viewing pleasure. With this in mind, it wasn't hard to find a good-looking dial, making it a challenge to narrow down the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018. Keep reading for…

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Undone Urban Killy Chronograph 01.07.2019

In 2018, these were the best watches under $1K

When you are first getting into watches, spending a thousand dollars seems like a ridiculous thing to do. Hell, even when you have started your journey into the rabbit hole, $1000 is still a lot of money for the vast majority of people living on planet earth. So with that in mind, I wanted to have a look at some of the best watches under $1K. This is by no means an exhaustive list, and I would love to hear what you would add in the comments, but these were some pieces that stood out to me (I even bought…

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Grand Seiko SBGT241 30.06.2019

These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018

Quartz often gets a bad rap as the ugly duckling of the watch world. With pejoratives such as "soulless", and "the quartz watch is entirely dependent on its battery and it has the dedicated ambition to commit suicide as soon as possible", it takes a beating. And while the latter quote was by a not-insignificant contributor to the horological canon, it also implies literally no technological innovation in quartz watchmaking, which obviously isn't the reality. Quartz watches can be cheap and cheerful, but some quartz watches contain genuine watchmaking expertise, and a taste of something slightly different than laborious crown-winding…

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29.06.2019

Seiko vs. Garmin – who will survive an ultramarathon?

One of the most beautiful elements of the mechanical watch is it doesn't rely on disposable units of lithium to function. If you keep moving, your watch will too. This forms a dependent partnership that for many collectors is a huge emotional attraction to the mechanical watch. The energy from your fingertips directly transfers power into the micro-mechanical marvel that keeps you on time. This was the reason I wanted to wear a mechanical watch on my first attempt at an ultramarathon. My brother had convinced me to run 100km along the stunning coastline between Apollo Bay and the Twelve…

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Rolex-GMT-Master-II-Rolesor-Root-beer 29.06.2019

Two-Timing – 10 of the best GMT watches of 2018

As the internet hits scale, connecting humanity in ways previously unthinkable, it is more important than ever to track more than one time zone. This used to be the specific domain of intercontinental pilots, diplomats and finance professionals, but no longer. Thankfully, watch brands are recognising this demand for watches that track multiple time zones, meaning there are more on the market than ever before. Here are the best GMT watches of 2018.   G-SHOCK GMW-B5000TFG-9 35TH ANNIVERSARY GOLD ALL METAL MASTERPIECE The one that started it all 35 years ago has been reborn, with everything, from its case and…

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Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept 28.06.2019

Don't stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept

Like all good stories filled with plot and intrigue, this one involves acquiring a pressure testing machine, and the decision to design a dive watch with it. Just like that, the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept was born. In case you're not familiar with Ming, they're a relatively young brand that's been making a lot of noise thanks to their attractive and distinctive designs. After taking possession of the pressure testing machine, the team at Ming put their heads together on what this watch was going to look like. They started work on an experimental prototype for a watch that could…

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Patek-Philippe-Aquanaut-Chronograph-Ref.-5968A-5 26.06.2019

Orange you glad we wrote this list? Our six favourite orange watches from last year

Last year we collected more than 200 of the best watches in the ultimate watch buying guide, with prices covering everything from $200 to $200,000+. Pulling from that archive, we thought we'd put together the best watches for summer, themed around orange tones. Here are our top six (+1) favourite orange watches from last year. DAN HENRY 1970 AUTOMATIC DIVER Over the course of 30 years, Mr Dan Henry has amassed a collection of more than 1500 watches. And what began as a simple desire to share his passion with others, quickly turned into the beginning of his eponymous microbrand…

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1927 Patek Philippe Mono-Pusher Doctors Chronograph Ref. 130 from Phillips Auction 26.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market

The watch auction market has hit serious momentum over the last four or five years, with record-breaking results being produced every season. While a portion of the soaring prices can be attributed to macro factors — such as democratised information on vintage watches through the explosion of sites that cover the topic — this isn't the whole picture. As we have previously discussed, watches owned by celebrities appreciate in value particularly well, but this doesn't explain the boom in auction prices for references without significant provenance. As vintage dealer Sean Song discusses, the auction room itself plays a large part in the…

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26.06.2019

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms that tells the story of the frogmen who used them

Editor's note: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, aside from being a damn good-looking dive watch, serves as a reminder that brands can reissue mid-century military watches without breaking the internet. We thought we'd take a look back at this Blancpain Fifty Fathoms tribute, which tells the story of when watches were specially designed tools that meant the difference between life and death. Blancpain has an excellent history in dive watches, and among the most coveted are the military-issued pieces. In this already hyper-specialised niche, the MIL-SPEC I and MIL-SPEC II watches stand head and shoulders above the rest.…

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25.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Can you get rich from collecting watches?

While antique categories such as art, furniture and artefacts have long been recognised as stores of value, watches are a relative newcomer to the game of "buy low, sell high". And this poses an interesting question – can watches help you get rich? It seems like every auction season, old records are broken, and new ones are set for vintage references, and not just with the usual suspects of Patek Philippe and Rolex. While quality examples of Nautilus and Daytona models reach eye-watering prices, enthusiasts and collectors are seeing brands such as Universal Genève, Omega and Cartier climbing in value…

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25.06.2019

How Fidel Castro kept a mid-century Longines in a time-capsule of collectibles

Editor's note: I met Adam for the first time recently at a Longines event, and was blown away when he produced a roll of five watches from his pocket. Apart from some stunning Enicar watches from the '60s, he also had a rather large, time-only watch, with an interesting dial. We got chatting and he told me the story of his mid-century Longines double signed with the retailer Cuervo y Sobrinos. Adam found it in Havana after persisting with a watch dealer for three days to show him the most interesting pieces from the back of his safe. Adam also…

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24.06.2019

5 *other* deep diving watches

With the news that Omega has pushed the bar (pun obviously intended) to a record-breaking point with their new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional, we thought we would look at the best-performing deep diving watches on the market.   Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller With a water resistance to 3900m, the Rolex DSSD is a strong contender for champion of the deep. Featuring the unarguably comfortable oyster bracelet, a case manufactured in the brands own Oystersteel, and a genuinely wearable 44mm on the wrist, it's a fantastic watch for any dive enthusiast.   Sinn Model UX The German manufacturer pulled…

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24.06.2019

Vintage Collector: From Grand Seiko to minute repeaters

Editor's note: Felix interviewed Anders a few years ago to discuss his journey as a vintage collector and what he looks for when purchasing watches. One thing he mentioned then was his motto to never sell, which got us wondering: If nothing ever leaves the collection, what else has been added since then? Have a browse through his Instagram to see an incredibly uncommon minute repeater, a trio of Gérald Genta designed beauties and one of the best Cartier designs of all time. Here's the original chat Felix had with Anders: The world of watches is very small and very…

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20.06.2019

Skip the waitlist – 10 of the best steel sports watches you can buy right now

Ten years ago, this phenomenon only existed in the uppermost echelons of the watchmaking world – the waiting list. There's a lot of wild speculation around why waitlists for certain models exist, with some suggesting market forces, and others suggesting less passive forces. Regardless of their cause, they don't appear to be disappearing anytime soon, which gave us reason to pause and wonder – what are the best steel sports watches you can buy without suffering on a waitlist? After some consideration, here is our list of the best steel sports watches currently on the market – which you can…

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20.06.2019

What it's like to live with the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer

As we all know, the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer is a very rare watch, made by a manufacturer that prides itself on keeping rarity at the core of what it does. What makes this specific H. Moser & Cie Pioneer rare is that of the hundreds of watches Time + Tide Watches Founder Andrew has reviewed, this is a piece he decided to buy. After seeing it on his wrist this week, I thought it was time to revisit why he bought it in the first place. I'm eternally fascinated by the drivers of a watch purchase. The behaviours…

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19.06.2019

INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019

This year, Zenith is lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero automatic chronograph, which is being marked with the release of the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival. This is a very cool watch for a number of reasons, but first, let's look back a half century. The birth of the El Primero It was an important year in the history of watchmaking, as in 1969 the first ever quartz watch was released, as well as the first ever automatic chronograph. While a number of brands completed designs of an automatic chronograph that year (including Seiko and…

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18.06.2019

This guy did a survey and found that 38mm is the perfect watch size – here are our other takeaways

The guy in question is none other than Mark Cho, who's kind of a big deal in the world of menswear. One of the co-founders of The Armoury and co-owner of Drake's. He's also a watch fanatic. He spent one of his first paychecks on an Omega Chronostop, and admits that after falling down the rabbit hole, he has bought close to 60 watches over the last 15 years. Mark was curious about what the perfect watch size was, as well as how this stacked up against the average wrist, so he put together a survey to find some answers. Given…

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17.06.2019

People are clearly still polarised by the Tudor Black Bay P01 – which team are you in?

Chatter about controversial watches happens everywhere from the halls of Baselworld to the comments section of Instagram, but the fury is often short-lived. A couple of notable exceptions released in 2019 included the 11.59 Collection by Audemars Piguet, and for different reasons – the Tudor P01. When we posted a pic of it on Instagram this morning, we were sharply reminded that this model is not done polarising people. While it seemed that the delivery of  a more steady stream of Black Bay Fifty-Eights (as well as a recent flourish of Black Bay S&G Chronographs) to retailers' cabinets had taken the…

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