Time and Tide Watches

Australian Watch Authority

Nick Kenyon

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King Seiko KSK SJE083 20.01.2021

HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK SJE083 is the reissue that any Seiko fan needs to check out

As a pinprick of light at the end of the tunnel that was 2020, a watch was released that sent murmurs of excitement through Seiko fans around the world. It was the King Seiko KSK SJE083, a reissue of one of the most important references for the brand, the King Seiko ref. 44-9990. This isn’t just any other reissue. This is a watch that celebrates a critical decade in the history of the Japanese watchmaker that deserves greater recognition – the 1960s. A brief history of King Seiko Let’s start with a little bit of history. Thanks to being so…

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King Seiko KSK SJE083 16.01.2021

VIDEO: King Seiko is back (baby) after almost 50 years and it was definitely worth the wait

Seiko didn’t exactly have a slow 2020, but they might just have saved one of the best for last. Or did they drop the ball in the final yard? In their final release of last year, we saw the all new King Seiko KSK SJE083, a reissue of a watch from 1965 that is highly collectible – the King Seiko ref. 44-9990. The 1960s is a decade of the Japanese watchmaker’s history that isn’t as widely known as it should be, and that is one of the things that makes this release compelling. Because while you almost certainly know the…

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mark cavendish richard mille 15.01.2021

Riding $20k+ bikes isn’t enough, these top cyclists wear Richard Mille on race day

Mark Cavendish is arguably the greatest cycling sprinter of the modern era. But despite having a little less speed in his legs than he once did, his change of teams to Deceuninck–Quick-Step has sparked much excitement among cycling fans. As both a cycling nerd and watch enthusiast, today I got even more excited when I saw his Instagram story during a training ride with new teammate Julian Alaphilippe. Why? Because they were both wearing their Richard Milles. Alaphilippe came to our attention late last year during the delayed edition of the 2020 Tour de France, when he was spotted cruising…

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vintage watches on eBay 14.01.2021

5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’re likely to sit somewhere on the scale of watch addiction. From unrelenting curiosity to full-blown collecting mania, you should know that you aren’t alone in your unquenchable thirst for that next addition to the collection. And what better way to start the year than by getting a new watch? Especially a vintage one. Here, we are taking a look at several vintage pieces on eBay that are currently available and all offer different elements of watch-collecting intrigue. If you’ve never bought a vintage watch before, let alone a vintage watch online, it…

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hugh grant watch collection 14.01.2021

From Panerai to Piaget, Hugh Grant’s watches are a whole lot more alpha-male than you’d think

At the turn of the millennium, Hugh Grant was the man. In 1994, he won a Golden Globe and a BAFTA for his performance in Four Weddings and a Funeral and, in 1995, Empire magazine proclaimed him to be one of the “100 Sexiest Stars” in film history. Grant’s breakout role was in Four Weddings and a Funeral and he continued winning hearts with his very English brand of twinkle-eyed, floppy-haired, bumbling charm in Notting Hill (1999), Bridget Jones’s Diary (2001) and Love Actually (2003). But for all his middle-class faux modesty, the watches that Grant wears on screen are…

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favourite watches of 2020 08.01.2021

Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton

In spite of some not inconsiderable distractions, there were some pretty decent watches released in 2020. Quite a few of them actually. Omega relaunched their serially produced caliber 321, Bulgari executed the Octo Finissimo in steel, Grand Seiko launched an entirely new escapement in their SLGH002 and DOXA brought their most iconic design into the 21st century with a forged carbon case. But that wasn’t all. Moser joined the sports watch game with a “Matrix green” three-hander, Audemars Piguet launched a sensationally designed Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon for women and Rolex served up a colourful nod to the Stella dials…

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Roni Madhvani 07.01.2021

What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze

Roni Madhvani is one of the biggest vintage watch aficionados on the planet. His Instagram page – @roni_m_29 – is the stuff of legend and showcases his treasure trove of some of the rarest and most eccentric timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier. Conspicuously, however, it’s one of the few watch ’Gram pages that isn’t littered with steel sports watches. Madhvani’s collection is focused on precious metal and unique case shapes. Whether it’s a Cartier Crash, Audemars Piguet “Disco Volante” or a Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe, his Instagram feed is a wonderland of the strangest…

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Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph 42mm 06.01.2021

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last

Editor’s note: Today, Omega did what they had been hinting at for months: they launched eight new Speedmaster references across four models, all with the new Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. The four references include regular versions with Hesalite and Sapphire and precious metal versions in Omega’s proprietary Canopus gold and Sedna gold, all with options on bracelets and leather or fabric straps.  The most significant updates for all eight references are the new caliber housed within, and the brand new bracelet design. The new movement looks like an evolution rather than revolution. The power reserve is improved from 48 to…

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Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A 'CasiOak' 02.01.2021

VIDEO: Was the Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’ the hottest watch of 2020?

Everyone will remember the toilet paper shortage of 2020, as panic buying took hold of people around the world, but watch collectors will remember another shortage. The apparent global scarcity of Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’ models from retailers’ displays, with a frenzy of buying that led to the humble G-Shock selling way above its retail price on the secondary market. If you told me in 2019 that a standard production G-Shock was going to effectively have a wait list, I wouldn’t have believed you. But then again, I wouldn’t have believed much of what was going to happen in 2020.…

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most complicated Rolex 01.01.2021

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: The most complicated Rolex available today

The Rolex Sky-Dweller is an underrated watch. Hell, you can still sometimes find precious metal examples of this hefty-cased wristwatch in Rolex boutiques. Try doing that with a Daytona. But unlike many other Rolex pieces, the Sky-Dweller is a complicated companion despite its relatively simple design. In fact, while you might not immediately suspect it, this is the single most complicated Rolex according to its movement. Featuring the pretty remarkable Rolex in-house caliber 9001 (which holds more than a dozen patents in its design), the Sky-Dweller offers the time, date, second time zone, and month on its display, which also…

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Seiko 5 Sports SRPF19K Ryu 30.12.2020

VIDEO: The Street Fighter x Seiko Ryu edition hits you like a judo chop to the throat (in a good way)

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll know we’re big fans of the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V Editions. We first took a look at the full collection, before zeroing in on the Blanka green machine and the Ken red rocket models, and now we’re going to take a closer look at the Ryu edition. It’s an interesting watch, not just because of its Street Fighter connection, but because it’s probably the most wearable/least bonkers watch in the entire collection. When you strap the Seiko 5 Sports SRPF19K Ryu to your wrist, you’re getting a more subtle…

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28.12.2020

VIDEO: This Seiko 5 Sports collab delivers knockout appeal with Street Fighter’s Ken

The Seiko 5 Sports x STREET FIGHTER V Editions were one of the feel-good highlights of 2020. Taking the tried-and-true template of the 5 Sports collection and combining it with one of the most successful fighting game series in history proved a winning combo – both for watch collectors and fans of the combat franchise. Seiko released six different references, each a nod to one of the main characters in the game: Blanka, Ryu, Chun-Li, Guile, Zangief and, of course, Ken. The Ken edition is a particular eye-catcher with a fully black case that contrasts well with the gold crown,…

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Seiko 5 Sports SRPF23K1 Blanka 26.12.2020

VIDEO: Street Fighter’s green machine inspires the bad-ass Seiko 5 Sports Blanka

Seiko has by no means had a quiet year, but there was one collection that demanded attention. The all new Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V Editions turned heads for all the right reasons, taking inspiration from the legendary fighting game, and turning six of the main characters into watch designs. These fighters included Ryu, Ken, Chun-Li, Guile, Zangief and, last but certainly not least, the green machine himself, Blanka. Like the rest of the collection, the Blanka edition uses the typical Seiko 5 Sports template as a starting point, measuring 42.5mm in diameter, housing the automatic 4R36 movement…

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green Longines HydroConquest 22.12.2020

VIDEO: Unboxing the hyped khaki green HydroConquest, purchased online from Longines

Memory is a funny thing. Mainly because of what and how little we do actually remember. This is, in part, explained by the serial-position effect (please don’t click away from this page, this isn’t as boring as it sounds), which is the theory behind why we remember the start and end of events, but not much about what happens between the two. As 2020 has likely been a pretty tough time, you should try to improve what you remember of it by finishing it off with a bang. It might not be possible to have a huge party, but you…

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Timex Marlin Automatic California 20.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The Timex Marlin Automatic California brings a Cali dial to a new price point

Great design for a great price. That’s why the Timex Marlin is an understandable darling of the watch community, with clear historical connection to a collection that the brand produced in the 1960s. The Marlin journey was restarted in 2017 when they launched a manually wound silver dial version, with sword hands, an attractive sunburst brushed dial and charmingly elongated numerals at the cardinal points. In the years since, the same basic design has been re-expressed with a number of different dial and case colour variations, but in the closing moments of 2020 we get something totally new – the…

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best 18th birthday gift watches 20.12.2020

Seven of the best 18th birthday gift watches under $2K

Watches are emotional objects. We don’t need them. We want them. And we use them to mark important occasions. Birthdays, graduations, career milestones … you name it, they act as talismans of success and remind us of the moments that are special to us. Speaking to this theme, one of the questions we receive most at Time+Tide HQ goes something along the lines of this: “I want to buy a watch for my child’s 18th birthday, but I don’t know what to get. Can you guys point me in the right direction?” We wanted to tackle that question head on,…

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Favourite Watch Photos from 2020 18.12.2020

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s favourite watch photos from 2020

In 2019, this was without a doubt one of the pieces I most enjoyed putting together. Not just because I love looking at photos of watches, but because the difference between a good photo and a bad photo is a gulf that isn’t often talked about, and has some of the most impact on how a watch is understood. After all, in the words that I write I can describe the feeling of a watch on the wrist, or explain why it is a significant piece in the history of a brand, but a photo can offer insights that words…

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Seiko SPB181J and SSC795J 17.12.2020

INTRODUCING: Seiko bolster their legendary dive range with two PADI-certified winners

Seiko dive watches are the stuff of legend. They have inspired everything from the creation of entire Instagram accounts to the cult followings of references that appeared on the silver screen. They might not be the collective dials that launched a thousand ships, but they’re pretty damn close. This global ardour for the water-resistant wonders from Japan is well-merited and is the reason it’s always worth keeping an eye on new additions to the family. Which brings us nicely onto these two releases — the Seiko SPB181J and SSC795J. Both members of Seiko’s hard-wearing Prospex family, these two new special-editions…

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michael clarke hublot 40th anniversary 17.12.2020

Cricket legend Michael Clarke: Hublot is a game-changer “that is never scared to be different”

What’s the best way to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Hublot for the Australian arm of the brand? Through our national sport of cricket, of course. And that’s exactly what Hublot Australia have done, bringing together two Australian cricketing greats in Michael Clarke and Pat Cummins to mark the launch of the new Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection. The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is a trio of new references inspired by the first-ever Hublot made back in 1980. Founder Carlo Crocco was behind the design of this original Hublot, which inspired Jean-Claude Biver and Ricardo…

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Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Bovet 19Thirty Dimier U.A.E Limited Edition 16.12.2020

INTRODUCING: Bovet’s high-impact collab with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a wrist-bound serotonin hit

To celebrate their 70th birthday, luxury watch retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons have released a limited-edition watch with Bovet. The distinctive black and yellow design of the resulting watch is certainly eye-catching. But what makes the Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Bovet 19Thirty Dimier U.A.E Limited Edition such an intriguing proposition? Well, to understand the watch, let’s remind ourselves of exactly who we are dealing with. Founded half a decade after World War II, in 1950, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is one of the most important luxury retail networks in the Middle East, and indeed the world. Beginning humbly as…

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15.12.2020

Ever considered buying a watch on eBay? Here’s why it’s now 100% risk-free

When buying pre-owned watches online, there are two emotions that you feel after sending your money. The first is the heady excitement at the prospect of adding a new piece to your collection. The second is that queasy feeling in the pit of your stomach – a blend of terror and anxiety as you fear unboxing your watch only to discover what you’ve bought is a far cry from the real McCoy. We’ve all been there. We’ve all gone to grab our credit card and punch in the numbers, only for a quiet voice in the back of our head…

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Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium 12.12.2020

VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium

Hublot don’t do things by half. If they do something, they do it full throttle, and you can see that in the in-house movements they produce. You won’t find a simple three-handed caliber; no, instead you’ll find chronographs, tourbillons and some of the most impressive power reserves in the game. Of their in-house movements, this year the famed Meca-10 movement has been adapted to fit into the new home of the tonneau-shaped Spirit of Big Bang case. This has required a movement architecture redesign to fit like a glove into the curved case of the SOBB, and it’s hard to…

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11.12.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Here’s the reason we just released two watches with George Bamford instead of one

It’s not really a stretch to say that after a slow, weird, stymied kind of year we are off to the races. Last week we launched the third edition of NOW Magazine, which has kept us run off our feet this week sending out copies to enthusiastic watch lovers around the world. This week, we are launching our first ever watch. And not just one, two. We are delighted to introduce you to the Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 Limited Edition of 50 pieces and the Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT2 which will be produced only for 2021. The reason…

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Eugen Wegner One 11.12.2020

VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price

It isn’t an uncommon occurrence for old watch brands to be revived. But for a brand to be resuscitated by the great-great-grandson of the founder is a rarer event. With Eugen Wegner, that’s exactly what happened. The brand was founded way back in 1897 in Gdańsk, Poland, and became successful selling pocket watches and marine chronometers to satiate the demands of those working in the shipping and docking industries nearby. In 2017, the name Eugen Wegner returned to watch dials, thanks to the work of Jonas Bley (the great-great-grandson), who has since gone on to produce a number of heritage-inspired…

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hublot e-warranty system 09.12.2020

NEWS: Hublot has perfect 2020 vision in their new e-warranty system

Buying a pre-owned watch can be full of dangers. The watch might be fake, or not have all of the original parts, and it can be very hard to know all that — unless you have the original documentation of the watch. But even if these original papers have remained with the watch all these years, there is an increasing risk of fake papers that are forged to match the watch you’re interested in buying. The response to this problem by the LVMH watch brands has been to use blockchain records to ensure no counterfeiting happens. But Hublot has taken…

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King Seiko KSK SJE083 08.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The Return of the King with the revived King Seiko KSK SJE083

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’re no doubt familiar with both Seiko and the delectably finished Grand Seiko, but you might never have heard of King Seiko. Seiko stopped producing King Seiko watches in the mid-1970s, and have never made them again … until now. The new King Seiko KSK SJE083 is set to hit stores in January 2021, and will be a hugely exciting moment for the legions of devoted Seiko enthusiasts itching to see the first watch to bear the King Seiko name in decades. Back in the 1960s, Seiko split their Suwa-based business entities to…

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08.12.2020

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 6 favourite articles of 2020

I love this time of year. Not only because the weather is nicer and the Christmas break is on the horizon, but because it offers a chance to reflect on the year that has been, and think about the work that Time+Tide has done in 2020. In short, it’s been an extremely challenging year. Of course, hospitality, entertainment and travel have been some of the industries hardest hit by the Coronavirus pandemic, but the watch industry has suffered too. Rolling lockdowns have forced factories to close and storefronts to shut. Events to launch watches have been cancelled (such as Watches…

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creative Seiko mods 05.12.2020

7 crazy creative Seiko mods that don’t look like *ahem* Swiss steel sport watches

If you aren’t across Seiko modding, that’s fair enough. While popular in some circles of the watch community, it certainly isn’t a mainstream practice, despite the level of fervour of its disciples. Earlier in the year we took a look at a few pretty interesting mods that had been made, including with painted dials, ceramic bezels, skeletonised handsets and more. But there is a common theme in a lot of Seiko mods – they’ve been changed to look like certain stainless steel sports watches. While it’s a budget approach to avoiding a waitlist, we wanted to shine the spotlight on…

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05.12.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN (London Evening News Edition): Issue #3 of our mag is out, 2021 Club strap released, and our UK reveal draws closer…

Editor’s note: Everything at Time+Tide is filtered through the primary red and blue of the UK flag this week, as we properly break a bottle on the ship’s bow to herald our new London-based European Editor, Mr Mike Christensen. So it seems only fair that we shift the Friday Wind Down to Mike’s time zone for once. You will have noticed the ‘11 Days of Londoners’ series that aims to introduce Mike, and some prominent Londoners, to you via their wristwear. We’ve also timed the most epic week of 2020 with the London Evening Wind Down – with Issue #3…

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27.11.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Why collaboration is King, to the Moon and back, and the purity of the Portugieser

The human race has evolved to the point it has, not thanks to strength, or speed, or even intelligence. The human race is where it is because of our ability to collaborate and work together. Any chimpanzee would easily physically overpower a human, but they cannot collaborate with groups of more than 150, while humans can form nation states with millions of strangers and effectively work towards a common goal. In 2020, this need for collaboration has only become more evident as a requirement to succeed in anything, be it vaccine research and development or economic recovery packages. Collaboration is…

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27.11.2020

Our 5 picks from the (crazy) Longines Black Friday sale

This year, Longines is jumping on board the Black Friday sales and, boy, are there deals to be had. With watches from across their different collections up for grabs, if you’ve been in the market for one of the Saint-Imier brand’s watches for a while and haven’t pulled the trigger, today is the day to scratch that itch. Here are five of our favourites that are available in the Longines Black Friday sale. Longines Heritage Military COSD This watch is special because it was part of the first batch of Heritage models that Longines has since become so renowned for.…

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Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary 27.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary will spark joy in even the coldest heart

The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most celebrated watches of the last half-century, in part because of the countless different versions the brand has released. But in a world where a limited-edition Speedmaster isn’t a new thing anymore, is the watch community still interested in another new release? This watch has put it beyond any doubt. Absolutely, yes, they are. People can’t get enough of the latest Snoopy Speedy, with waitlists stretching around the figurative block as people line up to strap one to their wrist. But what makes the latest Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary so…

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IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection 27.11.2020

Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition

Just as IWC overhauled their Pilot’s collection in 2019, this year is all about the Portugieser collection for the Schaffhausen-based brand. While there are more than a dozen new references within the 2020 lineup, there’s one particular piece that not only captures the new direction of the collection but also encapsulates what IWC does so well as a watchmaker. We’re talking, of course, about the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition, a watch that is both thoughtfully designed and offers a nod to the game-changing work that Kurt Klaus did on perpetual calendar calibers at IWC in the 1980s.…

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Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary 26.11.2020

VIDEO: The feel-good watch of the year? The uplifting power of the Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’

The new Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary is many things, but limited in numbers it is not. That’s right, for the first time ever, the brand has released a non-limited edition Snoopy Speedy. For many collectors who missed out on the other two references – released in 2003 and 2015 – this is an exciting opportunity to own a part of the history that Omega and NASA share, a history that was first celebrated 50 years ago. But while the news of the normal production run is big, what the watch itself has to offer is also significant. The…

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IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition 25.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition would make Kurt Klaus smile

The perpetual calendar is widely recognised as one of IWC’s greatest strengths. Back in the 1980s, legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus was challenged to develop a new version of this highly intricate mechanism. He responded with an ingenious upgrade that essentially streamlined the complication by doing away with the correctors and enabling the calendar functions to be manipulated via the crown. The new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition offers an even more refined expression of this idea to deliver a simple solution to a complicated problem. Just like Kurt Klaus would have wanted. The case As the name suggests,…

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Lewis Hamilton loses legal battle with Hamilton watches 20.11.2020

Hamilton Vs Hamilton: F1 superstar Lewis Hamilton loses legal battle with Hamilton watches

What’s in a name? Quite a lot if you’re the greatest Formula 1 driver of all time. But while Lewis Hamilton is used to zooming to victories on the track, he’s just skidded to a big loss in the law courts. The racing driver has just lost a three-year legal battle with the Hamilton watch brand over his attempt to void their trademark on the name “Hamilton” across Europe. The Daily Mail reports that Lewis Hamilton’s company 44IP claimed that the watch brand’s trademark had been filed in “bad faith”. This was despite Hamilton producing watches under that name since…

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Seiko Prospex SPB185 and SPB187 20.11.2020

INTRODUCING: More refined, wearable and affordable, the Seiko Prospex SPB185 and SPB187

Seiko’s year of living prolifically – while seemingly oblivious to a global crisis – continues afoot. After releasing dozens of watches already this year, to almost unanimous praise from fans and press alike, they have done it once again with the Seiko Prospex SPB185 and SPB187, two watches that look familiar for lots of reasons. Taking inspiration from the historically important Seiko Automatic Diver ref. 6159-7001 from 1968, which was the second dive watch design produced by the brand, this design was reproduced in near facsimile early this year with the Seiko SLA039J1, a watch that celebrated the 55th anniversary…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm 18.11.2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll probably know that Audemars Piguet are well known for their skill in making tourbillons. This year alone, the Le Brassus-based brand has released a number of tourbillon watches, which we’ve covered here, here and here, but Audemars Piguet isn’t slowing down. Today the watchmaker announced the release of three new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm references in different metals, which is an important step by the brand for a couple of reasons. Firstly, while it was all the way back in 1999 that the brand incorporated a tourbillon into…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique 16.11.2020

3 watches you can get from the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique right now

The lockdown in Melbourne has made us miss a lot of things. An avocado-heavy brunch with friends. A cocktail at Eau-de-Vie. And also the opening of the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique. You heard me correctly, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a new home in Melbourne at the Paris end of Collins Street, right next to its Richemont stablemates, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier. This is the second part of an Australian expansion by the brand, with the first-ever boutique in the country opening in Sydney last year. At the time, Justin Devaux, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Country Manager of Australia and New Zealand, explained the…

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16.11.2020

Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet

Sydney-based watch brand Bausele has been confirmed to produce two watches with the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) to mark their centenary. The RAAF’s 100th anniversary will be marked by two special watches that contain parts of RAAF aircraft. The last time the RAAF actually commissioned a watch was in the 1940s, when they commissioned the likes of IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre, so this is something of a breakthrough in the short history of Bausele, which was only founded in 2011. The sense of occasion, and the connection it provides Bausele with a long and rich history, has spurred the brand…

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best Hublot watches of 2020 14.11.2020

Our picks of the best Hublot watches of 2020, including some Black Magic, beautiful bracelets and modish millennials

Over the last few years we’ve seen lots of brands turn to their archives as inspiration for new watches. Heritage is very, very popular. But what if you don’t have a century or more of archives to dig through in search of exciting designs? What if your brand was only founded in 1980? For Hublot, celebrating their 40th anniversary this year, that hasn’t been a problem. Perhaps thanks to having such a legendary innovator as Jean-Claude Biver at the helm for so many years has seen that philosophy ingrained into the very fibre of the brand. Innovation has been at…

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Friday Wind Down 13-11-20 13.11.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The GPHG winners were what?! 007 is confirmed to be a woman, and we look at some pretty Hublot pastels

It’s certainly time for a Friday afternoon beer, and for no more reason than the eyebrow-raising results that came out of the GPHG overnight. The GPHG is, of course, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève or, as is endlessly repeated, “the Oscars of watchmaking”. The ceremony was held yesterday, with a couple of awards that caused Zach to almost ruin his laptop by spitting his drink out when certain watches were announced as the winners. Not that they weren’t excellent watches in their own right, but were they the best in their category in 2020? We’ll leave that one up…

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Reuben Schoots Australian Independent Watchmaker 11.11.2020

WHO TO FOLLOW: @reubenschoots, an Australian independent watchmaker building a George Daniels Tourbillon pocket watch

Anyone who knows anything about watches knows that watchmaking is hard. And anyone who knows anything about watchmaking knows that the bar set by George Daniels is extremely high. But despite these daunting challenges, there is a young watchmaker in Canberra, Australia, who is making a complete tourbillon pocket watch according to the George Daniels method. His name is Reuben Schoots. If you’re a close reader of Time+Tide, you will have seen an interview with Reuben in the 2019 edition of NOW Magazine, and also read his recent article published on Time+Tide about the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber. If…

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Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology 10.11.2020

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value?

Last night saw the Phillips’ and Blackbird thematic auction Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 play out, with some truly incredible watches reaching truly incredible prices. Two that I wanted to focus on were a pair of watches that are at the same time very similar and very different. Both are handmade. Both are three-handed dress watches in precious metal. Both could be argued as examples of the finest watchmaking from their respective countries. However one is from Switzerland, and the other is from Japan. I am of course talking about the Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary No. 00/20 and the Seiko Credor…

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Friday Wind Down 6/11/20 06.11.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more

If you read Time+Tide regularly, you’ll know that stainless steel Rolex watches are almost exclusively more expensive on the secondary market than they are at retail. This isn’t a new phenomenon, though it does seem to have taken on a new life with the advent of the “waiting list”, an ethereal allocation system that Rolex Authorised Dealers use to decide who is lucky enough to buy the watch they want. But what are the Rolex references that regularly trade most above their retail price? Zach took a closer look at the topic this week, to find out what the hottest…

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bargains at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII 05.11.2020

8 watches that might just be sub-$10k bargains at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII

Let’s face it, watch auctions can be a little bit intimidating. The big players in the watch game are centuries-old organisations, with Christie’s and Sotheby’s both pre-dating the First Fleet sailing into Botany Bay, and Phillips only eight years younger, being founded in 1796. All this history, the seven-figure headline lots and the sometimes confusing rules of the game can build to the impression that it is an inaccessible world of richly scented mahogany. But it doesn’t have to be that way. In fact, there can be hidden gems at the (relatively) more affordable end of the scale. With that…

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Bausele Royal Australian Air Force Centenary Airfield and Aviator 02.11.2020

Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs

There aren’t many watch brands that can proudly claim to be Australian, but Bausele is one of the select few. Founded by Christophe Hoppe in 2011, Bausele have just announced their partnership with the RAAF to produce two watches that will celebrate the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary in 2021. It is exciting news that an Australian-based brand has been chosen for such a significant collection of watches, and a testament to Bausele, as they were competing against a number of globally recognised brands. Christophe Hoppe and the design team at Bausele have created the Bausele Royal Australian Air Force Centenary…

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30.10.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sydney shark attacks, steel sports watches and the Serica 4512

It’s fair to say that Andrew has been in the game a little while now. He’s spoken to more than his fair share of weird and wonderful people for Time+Tide, from Hollywood actors and directors, to watch ambassadors and even the man behind the Apple Watch. It takes someone pretty special to raise his heart rate these days. But when he got off a call with Paul de Gelder recently, he was fired up. Seriously fired up. And after hearing what Paul had to say this week, I can see why. Paul is a former navy clearance diver, turned TV…

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Longines Record Australian Limited Edition 29.10.2020

VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case

Despite being an important pillar of the brand today, the Longines Record Collection is sometimes overlooked by the collector community. In its most refined form, the Record Collection represents the clean classicism that is so beautifully embodied by the brand, and offers a breadth of watches tailored for everyday wear. This year Longines have continued to develop what the Record Collection can be, with the Longines Record Australian Limited Edition adding a luxurious twist to what is on offer. Offering the simple, yet elegantly designed profile of the 38.5mm steel case, the bezel is set with 52 internally flawless VVS diamonds…

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wear watches during COVID 27.10.2020

The three most common answers to why the hell you’d wear a watch in lockdown?

For many of you reading, COVID-19 is the virus that will. Not. Go. Away. At first, for most, it was a bit of a quirky change of pace. Fun, even. A blur of Netflix, homemade Negronis and novelties like bare-knuckle fighting for toilet paper. But as it’s ground on, the darkness has subsumed many of us; we now just want it to be behind us, amirite? In Australia, we’re getting there. After 139 days of Stage 4, the most strict lockdown in the world by most reports, Melbourne, our home city is coming out – at 11.59 tonight. Sydney has…

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Horology Forum 2020 25.10.2020

“The grey market is a creation of the brands, and they need to address it.” The virtual Horology Forum 2020, brought to you by Dubai Watch Week, kicks off with a bang

It feels like a lifetime ago that I was heading home from the DOXA Australia Launch Event to pack my bags for Dubai Watch Week 2019. Since then, the global pandemic put a stop to any in-person watch events (with the exception of the LVMH Watch Week and more recently at a socially distanced Geneva Watch Days), which included the demise of the longest-running watch event in the world – Baselworld. But the youth of Dubai Watch Week gives it an advantage against the traditional trade show. Flexibility. And this year the organisers of Dubai Watch Week are demonstrating their dynamism…

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Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9 review 25.10.2020

MY YEAR WITH: The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9. Did the gold eventually get old?

Never, in my life, have I had more comments on my watch. From friends. From strangers. No one can help but notice my full metal gold-tone G-Shock (the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9). But if you’ve met me, or follow me on Instagram, you’ll likely know that I tend to lean towards simple, cleanly designed watches with two or three hands. I love watches that manufacturers like Cartier produce for this very reason, as well as anything else that strives for balance and proportion above all else. So why did I add one of the loudest and most gaudy timepieces…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin polished steel 23.10.2020

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has seen the update it was waiting for this year, with the announcement in January that it was going to be produced in steel. The months since that announcement have felt both very slow and very fast at the same time, and some may have missed that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel is now available in both black and blue dial colours, giving fans of the brand the option of dialling up the dress or sport factor. Recently, Time+Tide was fortunate enough to spend some time with the blue dial reference at Geneva Watch Days,…

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WatchFest 2020 22.10.2020

If you missed out on the Sydney-based WatchFest 2020, prepare for SOMO (the Sadness Of Missing Out)

Against all odds. That was spirit of the conversation I had with Paxton Wong a couple of weeks ago, when we were discussing what he had planned for WatchFest 2020. The COVID-19 pandemic wasn’t a reason to cancel the event this year, it was the reason it had to go ahead. Not just because Paxton wanted to keep his 2019 promise of “bigger and better” for 2020, but because the Australian watch industry has been terribly affected by local lockdowns, and WatchFest 2020 was the perfect opportunity to rally the community. WatchFest 2020 ran over four days last week and…

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21.10.2020

3 ways the Apple Watch Series 6 could help to protect you from COVID-19

This year has been unlike any other in recent memory. Almost unlike any in living memory. And while that has been for a multitude of complex reasons, much of the responsibility can be uncontroversially laid on the shoulders of the COVID-19 pandemic that has spread across borders. While this has been a global catastrophe, the response to the virus has been- at its best – inspiring, as governments and both public and private organisations have pooled resources, shared information and worked together to find ways to manage the Coronavirus. We don’t need to talk about humanity at its worst through…

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Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch 18.10.2020

HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present

For many around the world, one of the unexpected side effects of a global pandemic is spending a lot more time on the couch watching Netflix. And if that’s something you can relate to, then you have probably watched (or at least been recommended to watch) The Social Dilemma, a documentary about the addictive elements of social media and how each platform is structurally designed to retain your attention. How is this related to the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch? Hear me out. While The Social Dilemma was not a catalyst for immediately deleting my social media accounts (I’d miss…

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Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch 16.10.2020

VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch

If you’re someone who spends more time looking at screens than you would like to, but don’t want to miss an important call, the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch is an interesting proposition. At first impression, or from across the room, you would think you were looking at a mechanical mid-century wristwatch. After all, the analogue hands don’t give much away about what lies beneath the dial. Under the dial is a Bluetooth-linked smartwatch, which offers almost everything you might want, including phone notifications, activity tracking, sleep monitoring and alarm, as well as multiple time zones with the press of a…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition "Dato 12" 15.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45”

TAG Heuer continue to celebrate their 160th anniversary this year with the release of their latest heritage-inspired limited edition. This is a formula that has offered both surprise and delight to collectors around the world in 2020. With the release of several new references (which we have covered here, here and here) that not only show the depth of the archives at TAG Heuer but the willingness to revisit important designs and bring them into the 21st century. Both models are limited to 1860 pieces and have a price of $5,950US and $8,600AUD – you can pre-order the watches here…

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Grand Seiko macro photography 14.10.2020

“They polish places nobody can see.” Why the Instagram king of macro videography loves Grand Seiko

In this instalment of our discussion with the King of the Close-Up, Mr @horomariobro (you can find the first part right here), we take a deep dive into a brand that has a well-established reputation for getting the details right – Grand Seiko. Specifically, we take an extremely close look at his own Grand Seiko SBGY003, a watch that was released in 2019 to mark the 20th anniversary of the launch of the Spring Drive movement. Here’s what he had to say.  Andrew McUtchen: Your video of the Grand Seiko SBGY003 is pretty remarkable..! @Horomariobro: Yes, here I try to show a…

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Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection 13.10.2020

VIDEO: The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection exemplifies what the brand does best (and did first)

Despite being one of the most well-known and regarded watchmakers in Switzerland, Hublot is a relatively young brand when compared to its 18th and 19th century peers. Hublot was founded in 1980, a mere four decades ago. In celebration of this milestone, the brand is marking its 40th birthday with the all-new Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection, which pays appropriate tribute to the first watch to ever have Hublot on a dial. The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection comprises three limited edition references, with 100 available in yellow gold, 200 in titanium and another 200 in…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo drawing 12.10.2020

VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari

Most of us probably haven’t tried to draw anything since high school, and those high school drawings are unlikely to be works of art. Even to the encouraging eyes of our parents. But don’t worry, because it’s never too late to learn a new skill, especially when you’ve got the best teachers, and you’re learning about a subject you’re passionate about – a subject like watches. Earlier this year, Andrew McUtchen had the pleasure of  speaking with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the head watch designer at Bulgari and the man behind the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, and Fabrizio was generous enough to…

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08.10.2020

HANDS-ON: The liquid ceramic of the Rado True Square collection is something only this brand can do

If it’s the rugged tool watch charm of the Captain Cook or the historically energised dimensions of the Golden Horse, Rado is probably best remembered in recent years for the watches inspired by the archives of the brand. But there’s a part of the Rado family that watch enthusiasts might be less familiar with, a part that leaves the vintage design cues at the door and instead celebrates space-age materials with a contemporary flair. The Rado True Square collection hails from this lineage within the family. Ceramic cases that appear to be borderline liquid in their appearance, integrated bracelets and…

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Rado True Square collection 07.10.2020

VIDEO: Thinking outside the box with the Rado True Square collection

Ceramic is a notoriously tricky material to work with in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands able to produce the material at scale. One of the few brands that can claim to have mastered it is Rado, who are well known for their brightly coloured and scratch-resistant timepieces. While Rado use the material throughout a number of their different lines, one of the collections that benefits significantly from the expertise is the Rado True Square collection, which features pebble-smooth ceramic cases and bracelets to match. Within the True Square range, there are two references that show the breadth of…

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Omega Speedmaster 'Silver Snoopy Award' 50th Anniversary 06.10.2020

An old dog has learned a new trick with the new NON-limited Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary

It goes without saying that fans of Omega Speedmaster are some of the most ardently passionate people within the watch community and, indeed, the general population. As a watchmaker, Omega understand and foster this enthusiasm, and have this year acknowledged the legions of Speedy supporters with a very special new release. To commemorate one of the most important moments in Speedmaster history, the Biel-based brand has produced the all-new Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary, and this old dog has a very new trick up its sleeve. Behind the sapphire caseback of the Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th…

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05.10.2020

VIDEO: See the Seiko Save The Ocean SRPE33K and SRPE39K dials for yourself (they’re insanely good for the price)

Seiko’s “Save The Ocean” program is an important one, helping raise much-needed funds for the conservation of the planet’s oceans. You can check out a couple of the places that benefit from Seiko’s work here and here, but today we’re looking at the watches that help raise money for these critical programs. This year, it’s all about the Seiko SRPE33K and SRPE39K, two references that offer what might be the most imaginative and spellbinding dial of the year at this exceedingly affordable price point. The Seiko SRPE39K is based on the classic Seiko turtle shape, the same as last year’s Seiko…

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Watchfest Sydney 2020 02.10.2020

WatchFest Australia 2020 is going ahead against all odds, because community matters more than ever

Last year, a national get-together for watch lovers was launched by a well known Sydney-based collector, Paxton Wong. He called it ‘WatchFest’. And, despite every possible obstacle, the show will go on again in COVID-stricken 2020. Because, well, community. That’s what it’s all about, isn’t it? There’s no doubt that both the international and Australian watch markets have been badly impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. Tourism has almost totally evaporated, and foot-traffic through watch boutiques has significantly reduced due to population lockdowns and social distancing measures. And these impacts aren’t just felt by the larger luxury groups such as LVMH…

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Grand Seiko SBGE253 29.09.2020

Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection

For many watch enthusiasts, a somewhat paradoxical feeling can begin to set in after collecting for a little while. The more watches you collect, buying and selling different pieces in the pursuit of the perfect collection, the more a quiet voice in the back of your head says, “What if you just have one watch that does it all?” But what could be the one watch that satisfies everything you might need from a daily wear? It’s an incredibly personal question, but for most, there are a couple of elements you would need. Of those, the new Grand Seiko SBGE253…

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27.09.2020

We have all 6 of the Seiko 5 Sports x STREET FIGHTER V Editions live on the wrist, and they’re a box of coloured watch candy

Game on! Seiko have teamed up with the Street Fighter franchise to release a collection that is going to light up fans, but is also worth a look from a sheer aesthetics point of view – as you’ll see in this video collection review, there’s some crazy experimentation and colourways going on here. As we reported here, the Seiko 5 Sports x STREET FIGHTER V Editions were recently released, and they are six seriously interesting watches, each based on a key character from the game. Today, we’re excited to follow up with them live on the wrist. Ryu, Ken, Chun-Li, Guile, Zangief…

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best Longines watches from 2020 24.09.2020

VIDEO: We take a look at 5 of the best Longines watches from 2020

If you can say one thing about the Longines releases from 2020, it is that they certainly aren’t boring. With interesting new references being released from across Longines’ various collections, as well as the launch of the brand new Longines Spirit collection, it has been a significant year for the Saint-Imier based brand. The Heritage collection continues on its run of faithfully reinterpreted watches from Longines’ deep archives and, for those with more contemporary tastes, the Record and HydroConquest collections have something appealing for the ballroom and beach respectively. So to recap what has been a pretty impressive year from…

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best Longines watches 22.09.2020

The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year)

This year has been a big one for Longines — for a couple of reasons. They have continued down the purist pathway of vintage reissues through their Heritage collection, as well as continuing to build their other enthusiast-favourite families such as the Record and HydroConquest collections. But the biggest news from Longines in 2020 was the launch of the Spirit collection, an event that certainly doesn’t happen every year at the Saint-Imier based manufacture. For Longines, the Spirit collection represents the meeting of past and future for the first thorough and meaningful way, blending their important history as instrument suppliers to…

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Seiko Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition 22.09.2020

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here

For fans of the prolific Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, the name Porco Rosso will be familiar to you. He’s the ace biplane pilot who learned the art of flying in World War I, before being turned into a pig and then, turning his skills to fighting pirate crime. He has legions of fans around the world. What does this have to do with Seiko? Well, the Japanese watchmaker has teamed up with the Japanese animation studio to produce two (legitimately limited) limited edition watches, one of which is the Seiko Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition, in only 600…

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Rado Captain Cook interchangeable straps 17.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future

Every now and then you’ll come across something that makes you think, “Why doesn’t everyone do this?” This was what came to mind when I was considering the Rado Captain Cook with interchangeable straps, which offers a pretty practical solution to the limited versatility of a watch that only comes with one bracelet or strap. In this expression of the Rado Captain Cook, you are getting everything you would expect to in a piece from the collection, and a little more, so let’s take a closer look. After all, a different strap is almost as good as a new watch.…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Collection 16.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection

It’s been a great year for new watches, and one of the biggest contributors to this slew of attractive wristwatches is TAG Heuer, who continue their run of strong releases in 2020. The latest release from the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker is the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, adding another feather to the Carrera cap after the announcements earlier this year of the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection. But in a year when the Carrera collection has been such a focal point for the brand, what does this latest release offer? The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection continues exploring the vision of…

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Rado Captain Cook interchangeable straps 15.09.2020

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook, now with interchangeable straps gives you three for the price of one

As most watch collectors will agree, there are few things better than getting a new watch in your collection. It’s the thrill of having a new watch on your wrist that you’ve been thinking about for weeks or months, and is the culmination of researching, considering and finally pulling the trigger on that special piece that you’ve wanted. But while that thrill might not be an everyday occurrence, the next best thing is a new strap or bracelet to wear your watch on. In that regard, the Rado Captain Cook interchangeable straps has both spots covered. With the new offering…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection 10.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible

As you may have seen here and here, we have been taking a closer look at the latest chapter in the TAG Heuer Carrera collection that sees a total redesign of one of the brand’s most historically important families. But within this new collection, the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph green dial catches the eye differently. Both the boldness of the dial colour and the restrained bezel execution see this watch stand out in a refreshing light, and make it a different proposition from the rest of the collection. In the new TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph green dial you’ll…

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IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection 08.09.2020

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details

Editor’s note: The closer we have come to this new collection by TAG Heuer, the more details we have noticed and begun to appreciate. For example, the very unusual radially brushed finishing of the lush dials. See in the pics below. Yet more proof that big-box brands are still very aware of the power of nuance, detail and delight.  In true style, TAG Heuer are celebrating a very big birthday this year. The brand is celebrating its 160th anniversary and, as you can see here, have been marking the occasion properly with a number of exciting new watches. One of the…

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07.09.2020

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is for lovers of big, bold, sporty and steel sports watches

In a move that sees one of their most recognisable families undergoing a revitalisation, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is a serious statement by the brand. The Carrera DNA is clear for all to see, but the case and dial have been reinvigorated with some subtle changes that deliver a more contemporary and energetic collection under the historic name, a change that is as exciting as it is welcome. The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is made up of four new references, all of which are cased in 44mm of stainless steel. There is a range…

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Hublot fathers day gifts 03.09.2020

6 watches that show the best and the breadth of modern Hublot, all from the (open) Sydney Boutique

While it pains us as Victorians to write this, for we remain in the dark depths of our second lockdown, the Sydney Hublot boutique is open for business. And with Father’s Day just a few days away, it had us thinking we should loudly remind you of that fact, and then go virtually shopping for six of the best watches currently in stock. The challenge for this list was – like all the different dads out there – about showing diversity, which was in fact, not as difficult as it once was.  The brand may have re-entered the world with…

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Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 41mm no-date 02.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 41mm no-date and the one-inch-punch the world is talking about

The launch of any new Rolex model this year is a hugely exciting event, but the complete overhaul of the Submariner collection is a moment in time that will be looked back on as the beginning of a new chapter in the history of one of the most celebrated watches ever. Typically, when Rolex moves to update a specific model, they move gradually, perhaps introducing a reference in precious metal or two-tone, before adopting the update across the stainless steel references. But 2020 is no normal year, and after fears we would see no new models from the Big Crown…

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Grand Seiko SBGR321 02.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGR321 is among the best blue dial steel sports watches of 2020, and you can probably get one, which is nice

Grand Seiko continue to celebrate their 60th anniversary with another limited edition to commemorate the milestone. The latest anniversary model is the Grand Seiko SBGR321, which adds a fifth piece to the first four references that were released earlier this year. The initial four anniversary models included the hi-beat SBGH281, the ladies STGK015, the heritage quartz SBGP007 and the sports quartz SBGP015, which makes this latest limited edition automatic a nice addition to the family. All five of the anniversary limited editions feature striking and expertly finished rich blue dials, with red accents throughout. The latest Grand Seiko SBGR321 is…

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Ulysse Nardin Blast 28.08.2020

VIDEO: The Ulysse Nardin Blast is a pyrotechnic expression of haute horology

Ulysse Nardin has charged into the fray in 2020 with the release of the new Ulysse Nardin Blast, launched just before Geneva Watch Days. While the brand has an extensive archive of marine chronometers that have inspired a number of nautical-themed wristwatches, the design language of the Blast collection is unashamedly expressive in its ambition. The boldly styled 45mm case is a relatively slim 11mm thick, offering a statement piece that still wears comfortably on the wrist. As you might expect from the Le Locle watchmaker, the case construction is complex, and comprises a rose gold upper case, a black…

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Grand Seiko SBGP005 26.08.2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year

As a distillation of what a Japanese firm does best, the Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers a compelling line of thought – if you’re looking for a great watch on the more affordable side of things, do you pursue the usual mechanical suspects or high-end quartz? With a case based on the iconic 44GS design, an enchantingly deep blue dial and one of the finer quartz movements on the planet, the Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a watch that makes a strong case for the luxury quartz timepiece. The highly polished steel case measures 40mm in diameter and only 11.1mm thick, which…

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Richard Mille Julian Alaphilippe cycling 20.08.2020

Tour de France cyclist spotted racing with a $168,000 Richard Mille on his wrist

Cycling is a sport known for its speed and the dramatic risks that cyclists will take to win races. Every time the Tour de France is raced, there is almost guaranteed to be a handful of big crashes involving dozens of riders, leaving bikes and equipment often damaged beyond repair. That’s why it was a shock to see one of France’s top professional cyclists racing with a AUD$168,000 RM 67-02 on his wrist. Julian Alaphilippe was competing at the Critérium du Dauphiné in France last week when the watch was spotted by SBS Cycling. In a close-up shot taken by…

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Longines spirit collection interview 19.08.2020

We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to

The Longines Spirit release is a totally new collection this year, something that is already very exciting in and of itself, but also because it’s an entirely new chapter for the brand. Longines, just like many of the finest watchmakers in the world, slowly improve their watches over time and rarely release entirely new collections, making the launch of the Spirit collection something that deserves attention just for its rarity. But beyond this new step from the brand, the Spirit collection is a totally different offering from Longines for a number of reasons. I spoke with Matthieu Baumgartner, the VP…

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Longines Spirit collection 18.08.2020

VIDEO: The Longines Spirit collection range review

When we first caught wind that Longines was going to be releasing a totally new collection in 2020, we were very excited. They are a brand with a number of strongly performing collections that could easily see them sitting on their haunches, simply tweaking the recipe of their success with different dial variations, but they didn’t. Longines took the far bolder path and, with the launch of their latest Spirit collection, offer fans of the brand a blend of rich aviation heritage and contemporary watchmaking expertise. In this regard, the Longines Spirit collection is a first, drawing inspiration from a…

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13.08.2020

7 of the best left-handed watches for long-suffering southpaws

Being a left-hander ain’t easy. While struggle might be overstating it slightly, there are constant daily reminders to the 10 per cent of the population who are southpaws that we are living in a right-handed world. Using a fountain pen is likely to result in an inky mess, and don’t get me started on scissors. Can openers require a flexibility warmup before use, and the number keys on the right side of a computer keyboard are pretty much useless to us. In recognition of the quotidian frustrations we deal with on a daily basis, today (Thursday the 13th for those…

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TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition 12.08.2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition is a circle of blacktop for your wrist

This year, TAG Heuer are celebrating more than a decade and a half of timing partnership with the celebrated NTT IndyCar Series, and are releasing a new special edition watch to mark the occasion. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition was designed in close collaboration with the IndyCar team, and has a number of design cues that pay specific tribute to the legendary motorsports event. For anyone that has a soft spot for this race, it’s going to be a constant wrist-worn reminder. For those unfamiliar with the Indianapolis 500 race, it does what it says on…

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Rado Captain Cook bronze 07.08.2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy

To even the most casual Time+Tide reader, the Rado Captain Cook is likely to be a known quantity. A strong, stainless steel, vintage-inspired design, backed up by a reliable modern movement in a range of sizes … all true, but that’s no longer the extent of it. For the first time, we can now add three Rado Captain Cook bronze references to the collection. Named after the British explorer who achieved the first recorded European contact with the east coast of Australia, the Rado Captain Cook was first produced from 1962 until 1968. This was a legitimate dive watch that…

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Rado Captain Cook bronze video review 05.08.2020

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials

By now, you should be familiar with the Rado Captain Cook collection, inspired by a historical Rado reference from the golden age of dive watches. This year, the collection has launched three new references, announcing the Rado Captain Cook bronze for the first time ever. This warmly toned coloured metal complements the already vibrant array of colours that the Captain Cook collection is available in, including these new references produced in green, blue and brown.  While Rado are only dipping their toe into bronze as a material, this first collection looks great, and adds a further dynamic element to a collection…

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Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J 04.08.2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020

Last year, Seiko fans around the world had a collective skipping of heartbeats when the Japanese firm announced the release of the SLA033. This was no normal Seiko dive watch. As its full name suggests, the Seiko Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition SLA033, is a watch inspired by one of the most iconic Seiko dive watches of all time — the 6105. The 6105 was forever embroidered in the fabric of popular culture when it was worn by Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now. The model was favoured by real American G.Is in combat, which made the placement all that more authentic.…

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Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 04.08.2020

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original is a bulletproof diver with a brutal point of difference

Just when you thought it was safe to go in the water with your diver of choice, there’s yet another iteration to consider, and it lurks not only in the deep, but in our marketplace, where you can buy it as of today… Dive watches are perhaps the best served category of watches in the market in terms of sheer variety. But there always seems to be new contenders from known and unknown brands. One collection that is not new by any stretch, but a little more under the sonar than usual is the Engineer Hydrocarbon from the Ball Watch…

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Best Dan Henry watches 03.08.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: 5 of our favourite Dan Henry watches, including the “spectacular dial” of the new 1937

Editor’s note: We recently covered the launch of Dan Henry’s latest addition to his range, the Dan Henry 1937, a cleanly designed chronograph that looks back to some of the most iconic watches in the category. If we need any more proof that Dan’s watches are taken very seriously by all levels of enthusiasts, we need look no further than horological aficionado Mr Eric Wind’s personal Instagram account. He posted the gorgeous brushed silver dial version of the 1937 (see it below), with the caption, “Just a spectacular dial … Amazing to get a watch this beautiful for only $270.” So, the…

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Longines Record Australian Limited Edition 31.07.2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition

The Longines Record Collection is an important pillar of the brand today, representing the clean classicism that is embodied by the brand. The Heritage Collection is popular with the vintage enthusiast, just as the Sport Collection is a favourite of the adventurous type, and the Record Collection is designed to be an everyday companion and has a correspondingly universal appeal. The openly spaced and cleanly designed dials, as well as the elegant case designs, make for a watch that can look good in any situation, be it casual or formal. This dynamic nature is seen in the new Longines Record…

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31.07.2020

VIDEO: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are contenders for the hottest divers of 2020

One of the most iconic Seiko dive watches of all time is the 6105, a watch that was worn on the wrist of Martin Sheen as he starred as Captain Willard in the blockbuster film Apocalypse Now. This year, Seiko have announced the release of the Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J, two new references based on the classic 6105. The Seiko SPB151J keeps a closer relationship to the original 6105, with the same matte black dial and wide black bezel that sits proudly above the rest of the case. On the dial of the Seiko SPB151J there are those classic…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic 28.07.2020

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet

Often, it is incremental and deliberate design progress — slow to the point that the casual observer might not even notice it — that creates the best products. Tiny changes, layered on one another year after year, are the key to creating an unmistakable visual identity that stands the test of time. It’s a blueprint that is as simple as it is challenging to achieve. For the custodians of a brand to maintain a steadfast faithfulness to a design that might have been born a generation or two before, requires belief as much as it does an understanding that good design…

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Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II 26.07.2020

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder

Editor’s note: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II USA-only edition is available now in the Time+Tide marketplace, alongside the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original, a vintage-styled diver with some similar muscle.  The Ball Watch Company is a brand founded on the principles of practical and robust solutions to timekeeping problems. They were established in the United States in the late 1800s after a series of tragic accidents on the country’s quickly expanding railway networks. There was no standard time that trains ran to, meaning that a deviation of a local train station’s clock could result in a train leaving too early…

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer "Tortoise Shell" 24.07.2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses…

The summer watch is a category as important as pilot’s watch or doctor’s watch, but without the historically derived definition that comes from a serious professional context. A loose definition might include a watch that needs to be robust, waterproof and easy to read after five Aperol Spritzes, but it also needs to be fun and communicate a bit of personality. After all, the summer holidays (regardless of the hemisphere you live in) are a time when the workplace persona can be dropped, you can relax into the warmer weather and leave your more conservative timepieces in the safe for…

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most expensive quartz watches 21.07.2020

7 of the most expensive quartz watches you can buy in 2020

Quartz is the middle child of the watch industry. Born between the talented mechanical genius of the first-born and the innovative technology of the new smartwatch baby. But while it may have had less attention during critical developmental windows as a child – despite being wildly popular at birth – the quartz watch is hitting puberty in the same way Matthew Lewis (who played Neville Longbottom in Harry Potter) did, successfully finding its feet and getting some mojo of its own as a grown-up. So while quartz has typically been thought of as the cheap and cheerful sibling to the…

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20.07.2020

10 of the best digital watches you can buy in 2020, Part 2, including a cold Casio classic for 20 bucks

Digital watches remain an overlooked part of the watch world, forgotten by many who consider themselves to have ‘graduated’ to mechanical watches. But as we saw in Part 1 of this series where we looked at some of the best new releases in the last 12 months or so, there are a number of seriously cool and thoughtfully designed digital watches out there. So if you’re looking to mix things up in your collection that has previously focused on the mechanical side of horology, digital watches offer an injection of fun and variety into your collecting journey, without breaking the bank.…

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Longines Flagship Heritage black dial 18.07.2020

HANDS-ON: The new Longines Flagship Heritage proves that black and gold truly never gets old

While much of the Longines Heritage collection released this year has been brand new pieces, we have also been treated to an update to an existing model, the Longines Flagship Heritage black dial. The previous expression was released last year to rave reviews from the watch world and featured a charming cream-coloured dial, the warmth of which subtly complemented the gold-tone hands and hour markers. With the addition of this new black dial reference, Longines offer a slightly more understated watch that bears all of the same attractive vintage cues.  The backstory Inspired by the Longines Flagship watches of the…

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17.07.2020

We can’t stop looking at the ‘gender neutral’ Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink and we don’t know why

In a move to be expected of a brand like Hublot, the provocative wunderkind of the industry has just released a new limited edition in collaboration with Garage Italia and the grandson of the Rake of the Riviera himself, Lapo Elkann. The Big Bang Millennial Pink is based on the Unico 42mm chronograph and features what the brand is calling a gender-neutral soft pastel pink colourway that can be seen throughout the entire watch. The colour Righto, let’s call it. Pastel pink can only be considered ‘gender neutral’ if you factor in Don Johnson’s pastel-masculinising Miami Vice wardrobe. But somehow…

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Baselworld bought 16.07.2020

Baselworld gets a $110mUSD lifeline from James Murdoch, son of billionaire Aussie-born media tycoon Rupert Murdoch

Baselworld, as we know it, is dead. But has it been offered a resurrection lifeline by James Murdoch, the son of media mogul Rupert Murdoch? The owner of Baselworld, MCH Group, has announced the investment of 104.5mCHF from the Murdoch-owned Lupa Systems for what is anticipated to be around one-third of the shares in MCH Group. This development does beg the question:  why would James Murdoch invest in a failing show such as Baselworld? If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you will have closely followed our coverage of the demise of the world’s biggest watch fair over recent months.…

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Longines Heritage collection 15.07.2020

VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, it should come as no surprise that the Longines Heritage Collection has gone from strength to strength over the last few years. An early sign of the success that was to come was the Longines Heritage Diver 1967 in 2015 (a watch that was kindly donated to the Time+Tide Watch & Act! auction for the Australian bushfire crisis), and again with the Longines Heritage 1945 in 2017. But while you might expect that Longines had used all its dry powder over the last half-decade, they have released one of the best Heritage Collections yet…

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15.07.2020

Renaissance Man Aldis Hodge is appointed to America’s oldest watchmaking guild HSNY

One of the brightest and most dynamic minds in the world of watchmaking, Aldis Hodge, has been appointed as a Trustee of the Horological Society of New York today. His is a name that should be well known to Time+Tide readers, through his interview with Andrew McUtchen in the latest edition of NOW Magazine (of which you can read Part 1 and Part 2 right here), and as an award-winning Hollywood actor who has starred in films and TV shows such as City On A Hill, The Invisible Man, Brian Banks and Straight Outta Compton. In this exciting announcement, he…

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2020 Panerai collection 14.07.2020

VIDEO: Highlights of the 2020 Panerai collection, including the watch with a warranty that will probably out-live you

96. That’s how old I’ll be when the warranty on one of these watches runs out. This year is all about the Luminor in the 2020 Panerai collection, with a number of exciting new references that have been released so far. We focus on two highlights within the collection, the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117 and the Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech PAM01663, both 44mm watches in the classic Luminor case shape and offering some impressive new features. First, the PAM01117, and straight out of the gate we have a 70-year warranty period to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the original Luminor.…

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition 12.07.2020

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour

This year, Daniel Craig will star as James Bond for the final time in the upcoming No Time To Die film, a blockbuster that is sure to be action packed and offer a much needed reprieve from the dystopian movie that is our current reality. On his wrist for this film will be a watch that real-life Daniel Craig actually had a hand in designing, unlike any of the Bond watches that have come before it. It’s not just a PR line. Craig himself helped shape the watch we are taking a closer look at today, the Omega Seamaster Diver…

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TAG Heuer Connected colour 09.07.2020

INTRODUCING: This new TAG Heuer Connected with blue ceramic bezel is hands down the best looking smart watch on the market

Over the weekend, we unveiled a new watch by a different brand with a colourful dial. The crowd went properly crazy. In a dark year, colour has never been more wanted, or more welcome on the most visible parts of a watch. Being the dial, the bezel, the strap. The LVMH Watch Department is continuing its impressive run of new smartwatches in 2020 at pace, with the latest member of the Switzerland/Silicon Valley marriage, the TAG Heuer Connected, now being offered in a range of bright colours. A short history of smart watches in 2020 After the standard version of…

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Kanye wins the 2020 US election 09.07.2020

Kanye West is running for US President, here are 5 of his watches you might spot on the campaign trail

Earlier this week, Kanye West announced that he was going to run for President of the United States. That’s right, the 43-year-old rapper and streetwear designer married to Kim Kardashian says he will run in this year’s election that is set to play out in November. While it’s certainly a late announcement, and it isn’t even clear if he would be able to get his name on a ballot paper, this isn’t the first time Kanye has made his ambitions known in public.  In August 2015, at the MTV Music Video Awards, he closed out a stream-of-consciousness speech with, “as…

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Seiko Save the Ocean 08.07.2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Khando’s Seiko SRPC91K is something borrowed and something blue

If you’ve ever dropped into the Time+Tide HQ in Melbourne to pick up a copy of NOW Magazine or try on a DOXA, chances are that you were greeted by the effervescently charming Khando. She has been a member of the team since the second half of last year, and previously worked in the fashion industry with a number of international brands. As a result, most mornings begin with Khando arriving at the office wearing a piece from the latest Acne or Balenciaga collection. But, disturbingly, without a nice wristwatch. To solve this troubling issue, and being the smart negotiator…

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition 06.07.2020

VIDEO: By the end of this in-depth video, you will know if you need the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

Sure to be one of the highlights of 2020, the new James Bond film, No Time to Die, is coming. And just as we have with every new Bond film for the last 25 years, we get a brand new Bond watch. This year, we say hello to the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, an interesting watch for a number of reasons beyond the fact that Daniel Craig is sporting it in his last outing as the world’s most famous spy.  The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is based on the regular production Seamaster Diver 300M, however it has…

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TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition 03.07.2020

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition can actually improve your golf game

If we’re honest with ourselves, luxury sports watches aren’t actually designed to be used during sport. Sure, they are more robust than your typical dress watch, but the most adventurous situation they are designed to find themselves in might be diving into glittering Capri waters from the deck of a sailboat, maybe suffering a small knock to the case as you haul yourself out of the warm sapphire waters. The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition is different. It is a luxury sports watch that is designed to be used while playing sport. And not simply as a passenger during an…

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MING 17.06 Copper 02.07.2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper

While still in its infancy compared to the historical juggernauts of the horological world, Ming is already turning heads for all the right reasons. One of the heads they have turned is none other than John, who took a chance on a brand he hadn’t known a whole lot about and purchased the Ming 17.06 Copper earlier this year. Despite typically focusing his collecting on the big-box brands that we all know and love, John was curious at what the fuss was all about, and if a smaller brand such as Ming could live up to the rather high expectations…

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Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 02.07.2020

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue

Editor’s note: We all love blue watches. That much is clear, with the popularity of the blue dial stainless steel sports watch escalating almost beyond belief in 2019 and still in 2020. Both vintage and modern examples of blue watches from a few of the best watch manufacturers in the world command ever-increasing prices as appetites grow more ravenous and the size of the plate remains relatively unchanged. But as you might expect from the watch collecting community, the pulp of the matter lies in the details, and not all blue watches are created equal. Blue and white are a popular…

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All wound up: 3 great manual winding watches released in 2019 30.06.2020

LONG READ: The best Grand Seiko watches – and movements – of 2020 according to Daniel Yong, aka @mrgrandseiko

Editor’s note: Daniel Yong lives and breathes Grand Seiko. His Instagram handle is @MrGrandSeiko and he runs a blog called Mr Zaratsu in reference to the famed case-polishing method used by the brand. It’s safe to say he has immersed himself in the brand over years, building his scholarship of both vintage and modern references from Grand Seiko, which he shares with the enthusiastic online community. Unsurprisingly, Daniel is also an excellent source of information when it comes to the most noteworthy watches released in recent years, the references that have potential to become future classics, and what the legacy Grand…

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TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition 29.06.2020

VIDEO: A golf performance coach who trains the stars rates the new TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition

Golf is an addictive sport. One that blends the physical power of a Nadal forehand with the psychological rigour of playing a chess Grandmaster. And devotees of the game will do just about anything to get an edge. The immediate question is, will the TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition help them with that? Because, golf  is a game that is as much about mental sharpness as it is about physical performance, with countless factors at play that can either have you putting for a course record or hacking at a bush with your driver looking for your ball. If you’re…

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Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 26.06.2020

VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size

The 1940s were a golden period for chronograph innovation at Longines, an era that included the now highly collectible 13ZN movement, as well as timelessly balanced and articulated designs. The depth of Longines’ archives from this period have yielded yet another handsome model that is faithful to the original, with sensitive updates to bring it into line with modern tastes. This new Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 is slightly larger, which will appeal to those turned off by smaller vintage-styled watches, at 40mm in diameter and 12mm tall. It also houses the contemporary L895.5 automatic movement that boasts 54 hours…

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Deep Blue watch 24.06.2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Serendipity struck Sap while wearing his custom Deep Blue watch

There is huge power in community, even if you don’t always realise it. And there’s nothing like a serendipitous meeting to remind you of the little threads of connection all around you that build that community. It was one such chance meeting that Sap experienced while wearing his Deep Blue watch that was custom-made for his watch group – the SEVEN10 Watch Brotherhood. Sap reminds us in this video the appeal of indie brands. “I have a Rolex Hulk, I have an Omega Moon to Mars… but I also have Autodromo and Deep Blue, one of the OGs of the…

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Revenge Spending 21.06.2020

What is ‘Revenge Spending’ and will it save the Swiss watch industry?

You’ve screwed up. Big time. Worse still, your partner has found out and they mad as all hell. To get their own back, said partner embarks on a demented spending spree on your joint credit card in order to punish you for your (latest) transgression. That’s what most people think “revenge spending” means. But they’re wrong and probably have a guilty conscience about something (BTW, your wife will find out in the end). In fact, revenge spending is actually the phenomenon of hyperactive consumer spending after some sort of barrier has been removed. The notion of revenge buying was first…

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18.06.2020

7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials

Watch modification, or “modding”, is a remarkably popular subset of the watch collecting community, where enthusiasts will tinker with their watches to build totally customised pieces to wear. Without a doubt the most popular brand in the modding space is Seiko, where the combination of affordability and relatively widespread access to quality parts makes for the perfect storm of self-expression. There are even some members of the modding community who have turned their skills into micro-manufacturers, offering their services to fellow collectors for a fee, to build the watch of their dreams. While most watches can be modified, the base…

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17.06.2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: You will either be horrified or hot for Rob’s ghost bezel Tudor Submariner ref 7016

Ghosts are well known for haunting people. They leave people terrified. Too scared to leave their bedrooms at night. This ghost bezel Tudor Submariner ref 7016 is sure to keep you from sleeping, and the unshakeable feeling will be either intense horror, or intense attraction. There are unlikely to be fence sitters on this one. On Every Watch Tells A Story this week we hear from Rob, the man behind Geneva Blue who represents a number of independent watch (and accessory) brands right here in Australia, and his pretty remarkable 52-year-old Tudor Snowflake Sub. This special watch was born in…

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Mk II Watches 15.06.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Meet Mk II Watches

For many in the watchmaking world, the word homage is as dirty as the word quartz. Despite this, I would hazard a guess that most who feel a strong negative association with those words wouldn’t have particularly clear or compelling arguments as to why, simply that they once read it was bad and now it is. While I’ve made a case for quartz here, here and here, one of the most compelling cases for the homage watch is Bill Yao, founder of the focus of this week’s Micro Mondays – Mk II watches. According to Mk II, they are dedicated to…

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Bremont Project Possible Limited Edition 14.06.2020

HANDS-ON: The Project Possible Limited Edition, Bremont’s first bronze watch, with a hell of a backstory

Last year, Nirmal “Nims” Purja made headlines when he scaled all 14 of the world’s 8000m mountain peaks, in just under seven months. He did so with a Bremont on his wrist. The watch in question was a blue and white Bremont S300, proving just how robust the brand’s watches are and how well they rise to the challenge of surviving some of the harshest conditions imaginable. To commemorate this remarkable achievement, and as one of the main sponsors of the journey, Bremont has produced the Bremont Project Possible Limited Edition, which features a number of subtle nods to the…

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12.06.2020

BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever IWC Big Pilot references

The IWC Big Pilot collection is a pillar of the brand for a reason. The design is iconic and has remained unchanged for the best part of a century, the wrist presence is almost unparalleled, and the double-barrelled power reserve means you can take it off for a week without needing to reset the time. As a result of its significance within IWC, and its popularity on the wrists of collectors around the world, the Big Pilot has been expressed in countless different ways, from simple time-only references to perpetual calendars and tourbillons. With that in mind, I canvassed the…

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TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition 11.06.2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses

It was only three months ago that the latest TAG Heuer Connected watch was launched, the third generation of the luxury Swiss smartwatch that first hit the market in 2015, the same year as the first generation of the Apple Watch. One (eventful) quarter later and we see the launch of the brand new TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, a watch that offers the same generation-on-generation improvements as the latest TAG Heuer Connected, as well as being packed with golfing-specific features. If you aren’t across the updates found in the latest TAG Heuer Connected watch, you should check out this…

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Seiko SPB171 10.06.2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight

First, we had the Limited Edition ‘Moonlit Night’, and now we have a brand new Limited Edition porcelain dial model inspired by Suigetsu, a Japanese tradition which celebrates the beauty of the moon reflected in water. If you needed another reason to be entranced by this stunning, liquid white porcelain dial, there it is – a poetic backstory. Seiko have pursued excellence in dial making for decades, with their skill in ceramics being widely regarded as unparalleled. Japan is a country that has been extremely well known for high-quality ceramic crockery and vases for hundreds of years, so it’s not surprising…

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Hublot Big Bang e 09.06.2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang e, a truly left-field smartwatch, including the only way you can (currently) buy it

Hot on the heels of the launch of the latest TAG Heuer Connected watch in March, their LVMH watch sibling has launched the new Hublot Big Bang e. And while it’s not surprising in itself — Hublot already play in this space — its execution has some genuinely eccentric touches. But first, the specs, because they’re far more palatable for average-sized wrists than the first smartwatch Hublot released. This new 42mm smartwatch, 7mm smaller than the original model, is available with either a ceramic or titanium sandwich-style case, and features the same overall design as the first-ever Big Bang way back…

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Serica watches 08.06.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Serica watches, the revival of the affordable good watch

Serica was born only late last year when they were announced to the world as a brand that would offer a well-designed and robust timepiece at a fair price. They delivered in spades with their first watch, the Serica W.W.W. (standing for Wrist. Watch. Waterproof), inspired by the watches of the Second World War, where legibility and reliability were a priority that could not be compromised. The idea behind the brand was seeded when its founders — including the magazine magnate and Instagram influencer Matt Hranek (who spends his days jet-setting around the world with a Negroni in hand, living a…

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TAG Heuer coffee watch 07.06.2020

LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch

If you haven’t heard of James Thompson, aka Black Badger, you’ve probably seen his brightly lit work online. He’s done collaborations with independent watchmakers such as MB&F, De Bethune, and Sarpaneva, and has more recently been working with the King of Customisation himself, George Bamford. While much of what Black Badger is known for is his impressive work with different luminous materials, lighting up jewellery and watches like you’ve never seen before, his work with the Bamford Watch Department has seen a slight departure from these illuminated beginnings, focusing instead on exotic materials. In his first collection with Bamford they…

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Grand Seiko First 06.06.2020

VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary

Grand Seiko are marking the 60th anniversary of their first watch with a small collection of dress watches that are based on the first ever watches to be made with Grand Seiko on the dial. These classically styled time-only dress watches set the foundation for what Grand Seiko are becoming known for today; a knack for traditional watchmaking expressed in simple and coherent designs. We took a closer look at two of the three watches in this collection, the SBGW257 in platinum and the SBGW258 in yellow gold, which are two precious metal watches that offer different experiences of the…

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02.06.2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s

The Seiko Presage collection has long been a popular part of the brand’s lineup thanks to the well-tuned value proposition, and the amount of watch you get for your money. The Seiko SPB161 is another fine example. Featuring a crisp enamel dial and powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 6R27, you are once again gaining access to a complicated model with a hand-fired dial at a great price, especially when compared to enamel dial watches from practically all other brands. Beyond its functionality laid bare, the Seiko SPB161 offers a minimalist design with its two complications, the power reserve indicator…

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five 31.05.2020

A comprehensive list of the key Oris Divers Sixty-Five watches

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is hugely popular, and rightly so. Any independent brand that makes a well-designed, vintage-inspired tool watch at an affordable price will quickly gain a loyal following, something Oris has done with aplomb since the collection was first released in 2015. What some don’t know, and a key ingredient in their popularity, is the sheer depth and breadth of different offerings within the Divers Sixty-Five collection. Currently there are more than 50 different references, varying in size, dial colour, bracelet and beyond to make sure there is something for everyone. So with that in mind, let’s take…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic 28.05.2020

Comparing and contrasting the two Bulgari Octo Finissimo ceramic models: Polished vs. Sandblasted, which is for you?

If variety is the spice of life, Bulgari are condiment connoisseurs when it comes to the Octo Finissimo collection. Available in titanium, ceramic, carbon, sandblasted gold and now stainless steel, the many faceted cases of the range offer a dizzying array of different finishes. These external variations are hardly superficial either, they make a profound difference to the overall look and feel of each watch.  Of the 2020 releases, the show was stolen by the new satin-finished Octo Finissimo in steel, but an equally interesting new reference is the ceramic version, now with a polished case. This makes the ceramic…

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Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 27.05.2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft

There is a lot to be said for a simple chronograph. Something clear, easy to read and a pleasure to look at. You don’t always want to strap a large, bulky watch to your wrist. One with more information on the dial than you will ever use, and with at least half the displays doing god knows what. Longines has spotted this gap in the chronograph game, and has capitalised on it with their latest addition to the Heritage collection, the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. We first took a look at this watch a couple of months ago, but…

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Smith & Singer watch and jewellery auction 26.05.2020

A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction

Smith & Singer (formerly Sotheby’s Australia) are hosting their first watch and jewellery auction of the year this week, featuring a smattering of interesting watches, with a few standout pieces. While the current circumstances mean a crowded room focused on a rostrum is impossible, the auction will be held virtually, with bidding allowed via telephone and online to enable the sale to go forward. While watches only make up a portion of the Jewels Department of Smith & Singer, there are always some interesting lots on offer, including a Heuer Autavia “Jo Siffert” and an Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 1969…

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Grand Seiko SBGW258 SBGW257 SBGW259 26.05.2020

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko First SBGW258 in yellow gold, SBGW257 in platinum and SBGW259 in proprietary titanium

As we should all know by now, 2020 is the 60th anniversary of the launch of Grand Seiko, and while they have released a number of watches linked to this special birthday, this collection of Grand Seiko “firsts” might be the most significant yet. Based on the first-ever Grand Seiko to be born in the Suwa Seikosha factory and powered by the famed 3180 caliber, this latest collection features three references in platinum (SBGW257), yellow gold (SBGW258) and the firm’s proprietary Brilliant Hard Titanium (SBGW259). The three different references in three different metals all offer a totally different experience of…

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Raketa Copernic 21.05.2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors

“Is that what I think it is?” asked Aldis Hodge, Hollywood actor and horological designer, as I sat down for breakfast one morning at Dubai Watch Week 2019. “Yep,” I replied. “It’s an old Raketa Copernic; I picked it up last year.” “Nice, man. I’ve got one of those too,” he said. I had already been happy with the watch, mostly on account of the price I paid for it. But now, I smiled ear to ear. To have its coolness confirmed by a man who definitely knows a thing or two about watch design? That was something else. The…

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Billie Eilish custom leopard print Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 20.05.2020

Warning: Billie Eilish’s custom leopard print Audemars Piguet Royal Oak cannot be unseen…

Young Queen of Cool Billie Eilish is known for her avant-garde fashion sense, firmly cementing oversized hoodies, fluorescent hair and dad sneakers into vogue. The five-time Grammy winner and two-time Guinness World Record holder also has a fondness for jewellery — and lots of it. She’ll regularly be snapped with fingers stacked with rings, wrists loaded with bracelets and watches, and a neck almost hidden from sight with boldly themed necklaces. She confirmed her passion for lavishly created jewellery and watches in a recent photoshoot with Kenneth Cappello, where she was spotted wearing a highly unusual Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial 19.05.2020

The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most well-known watches in the world, but there are some references within the family that remain relatively undiscovered. While they are extremely rare, Royal Oaks with stone dials are as beautiful as you would imagine from the Le Brassus-based brand, with lapis lazuli and various other textured hard stones used in recent decades. Audemars Piguet have added to this legacy of exotic dials with the brand new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, available in platinum and rose gold with a black onyx dial and diamond indexes. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak…

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Horological Society of New York working watchmakers grant 18.05.2020

Horological Society of New York responds to Coronavirus pandemic with Working Watchmakers Grant

The watch industry has a remarkable way of pulling together when times are tough. We see it every other year with the Only Watch auction raising money for muscular dystrophy. Jack Nicklaus auctioned his Rolex Day-Date last year to raise money for unwell children, and John Goldberger did the same with his unique white gold ref. 6265 Daytona in 2018. In response to the Coronavirus Crisis that is sweeping the world, and hitting America particularly hard, our friends at the Horological Society of New York have put together the Working Watchmakers Grant. It is a fund to support watchmakers around…

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18.05.2020

8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers

Sinn is a brand that is stealthily emerging from the shadows. The Frankfurt-based manufacturer favours slow incremental changes to their product line, making their watches better every year, but never reinventing the wheel as they go about it. This year, the new collection has looked to improve on a few older references, as well as introduce something a little bit different from the robust utilitarian watches we are used to seeing from Sinn. Made up of eight new watches across three different collections, it’s clear Sinn has chosen to focus their attention on quality over quantity in 2020, a decision…

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Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze 15.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze

As far as micro brands go, Baltic is one of the most popular. We got our own taste of the hype around this brand during this year’s Time+Tide “Watch & Act” Auction, when the founder Etienne donated a prototype Aquascaphe to the cause. We knew it had been a successfully released debut dive watch from Baltic, but we never expected the prototype to hammer for more than six times the retail price of a regular production Aquascaphe, selling for USD $4100. Today, another member is being added to the tool watch family of the French brand, the Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze. …

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14.05.2020

Coronavirus projected to wipe out 60 ‘Swiss Made’ watch brands, while downturn surpasses Quartz Crisis and GFC

Coronavirus has surpassed all previous crisis’ in terms of its negative impact on the Swiss watchmaking industry, with a 25 per cent downturn anticipated for 2020, according to a report by Bank Vontobel. This is worse than the Quartz Crisis, which saw a 15 per cent decline, and the 22 per cent downturn in the wake of the Global Financial Crisis, notes this article in Watchpro.  “In terms of volumes, we’re going to fall back to levels seen in 1945, with probably fewer than 16 million watches sold,” said Oliver Müller, the founder of watch industry consulting firm LuxeConsult, in…

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Date windows on dress watches 14.05.2020

NOT ON MY WATCH: Sorry, but date windows on dress watches are ugly and pointless (and Nietzsche agrees)

Editor’s note: For a tiny bit of context … NOT ON MY WATCH is about the things we don’t like on a watch. It’s pretty self-explanatory as a column, but the reason we’re indulging our gripes on Time+Tide is that this is a safe place to do so. In the wider world, explaining that asymmetrical sub-dials, or bund straps cause you great distress can sometimes come off as trivial or trite. Of all the issues in the world to complain about, you’re choosing cabochon crowns? Especially during a pandemic! But not here. We understand. And, regardless of what else is happening…

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new watches omega bulgari casio Jaquet Droz 10.05.2020

Watches you shouldn’t miss, from Omega, Bulgari, Casio and Jaquet Droz

This year might be one of the most unusual ever when it comes to new watches being released. While brands were already seeking different ways to share their new releases with the watch-loving community, the global pandemic that we are still watching unfold has put a stop to almost any plans that brands might have had for the year. That means watches are being released in slow drops at the moment, not able to capitalise on the big moments such as Watches & Wonders or Baselworld where the industry is all in one place (though we did our best to…

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Rolex DayDate 08.05.2020

Great ‘Grams: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model

The Rolex Day-Date is the stuff of watch collecting lore. Not only has it been worn by some of the most powerful and well-known people to ever walk this earth (understandable, given it’s nickname: the President), but the sheer number of variations that it has been produced in over the years make it a goldmine of scholarship and investigation for the collection community. While it might be said the majority of changes Rolex make are glacially slow and (almost) unnoticeable in difference from year to year, the Rolex Day-Date tends to be an exception, as it went through explosive periods…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light 08.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was among the vanguard of the first luxury sports watches when it was released in 1975. But it hasn’t stayed in the past, with the constantly evolving new materials and technologies used by the brand in this collection bringing it convincingly into 2020 (with materials such as the electric-looking Carbon Glass, which we looked at here). As well as winning over certain members of the Time+Tide team, who have since professed their love for the model. In this enthusiastic approach to modernity and to new materials, we can announce the release of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light,…

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TAG Heuer Connected Watch 05.05.2020

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation 3, the first smart watch that feels – and looks – like a real watch

Editor’s note: Watchmaking is founded on incremental progress. The slow accumulation of applied knowledge that produces a better and better product with each passing year. That is exactly what TAG Heuer have achieved with their latest generation Connected Watch, offering the most optimised blend of Swiss luxury and Silicon Valley tech that we have seen in a smartwatch to date. Andrew spent some quality time with the TAG Heuer Connected Watch generation 3 before it was released to get a better understanding of what it is all about, and how it is better than the previous generations. Without further ado,…

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04.05.2020

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together

Certain expertise has always been found in specific parts of the world, creating hubs of creativity and technical innovation. So what would happen if you put the watchmaking nous of La Chaux-de-Fonds and the tech capability of Silicon Valley together into a watch? You get the TAG Heuer Connected watch, generation 3. The first generation of the Connected watch was released in 2015 (the same year as the first Apple Watch), followed quickly by the second in 2017. This year, we get more of a quantum leap than an incremental improvement. The generation 3 is two things: the most technically…

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custom Bremont Martin-Baker 03.05.2020

Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker

Watch customisation is now a field you can get into at high and low price points, but it’s still fair to say that going bespoke with a quality watch fit for the Ministry of Defence for example, is generally reserved for the upper echelons of independent watchmaking. And up at a price point where you might be paying six figures for a watch before you can ask for a different dial colour — and only if you are seen as a very good client. Most watch brands flat-out refuse to do it, a practice that has given birth to the aftermarket…

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IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 02.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, a new contender for the ultimate ‘one watch’

The story of the Portugieser begins with two businessmen from, you guessed it, Portugal. They went to IWC asking for a watch as accurate as a marine chronometer but could be worn on the wrist, something that hadn’t been done before by the brand. The only way the Schaffhausen-based manufacturer could meet the brief was to house a pocket watch movement in a wristwatch case, thus giving birth to the oversized Portugieser we know today. The original Portugieser watch was the ref. 325, a 41.5mm wristwatch with a subsidiary second dial, bold Arabic numerals to mark the hours, and powered…

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01.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details

This year, Cartier are shining the spotlight on the pioneering age of aviation as a source of inspiration. And that brings to the fore the wristwatch that started it all, the Santos-Dumont. The model returned to prominence in 2019 with the quartz Cartier Santos-Dumont. While the Cartier family and Brazilian inventor Alberto Santos-Dumont are inexorably linked through his role in their development of the first-ever men’s wristwatch, it is exciting to see his work used as a motif in a series of limited editions this year. One of the most striking of these limited editions is the Cartier Santos-Dumont “La…

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar 30.04.2020

INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you

The best thing about perpetual calendar watches is they are truly set-and-forget timepieces. So if you’re reading this a few decades from now and you’ve picked up a 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar as a birth-year watch, don’t worry, it won’t need to be adjusted till well into your retirement in 2100. Vacheron Constantin have released two new perpetual calendars in the Overseas collection this year, and while they have a lot of similarities, the impression they each leave you with couldn’t be more different. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton First, let’s look at the Vacheron Constantin…

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Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo 30.04.2020

INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection

The translucent blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea often conjure images of beach towels draped over deckchairs, shade umbrellas and Aperol Spritz, offering sunbakers relief from a cloudless sky, and small fishing boats rocking back and forth not far from shore. It is this idyllic scene that Panerai has embraced with their latest collection of limited edition Radiomir Mediterraneo pieces (reminiscent of their 2018 collection). The PAM01144 Radiomir 42mm Mediterraneo Edition and the PAM01078 Radiomir 45mm Mediterraneo Edition are both replete with rich blue fumé dials that seek to offer a moment of tranquility when you aren’t on the Amalfi…

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29.04.2020

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers limited edition, a bold statement already creating buzz

It was a Friday afternoon last November when I met Jan Edöcs, the CEO of Doxa S.A. He was here for the launch of the brand in Australia, and not only brought the full collection of watches from 2019, but he was also generous enough to share what they had in store for 2020, including early renders of the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers, which as of now is available to pre-order here. ** Rumours are circulating that this watch is already sold out – for now, we can say that an Australian allocation remains for launch…

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28.04.2020

Great ‘Grams: No vintage to see here

Great ’Grams has had a couple of weeks off recently, but that’s only given me more time to search for the best of the best on Instagram. This edition will be slightly different in that there isn’t a vintage watch in sight. If you’ve read Great ’Grams before, you’ll know I have a penchant for older watches, but this week I wanted to focus on a few of my favourite more contemporary pieces, which, of course, have been photographed wonderfully. Let’s get into it. @jaegerlecoultre_aficionado Social distancing with the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds “burgundy”. It’s not fun, but the beauty…

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Vacheron Constantin 2020 collection 25.04.2020

7 highlights from the Vacheron Constantin 2020 collection

Vacheron Constantin are a member of the horological holy trinity for very good reason. When it comes to technical innovation and craftsmanship, they are close to peerless in their capacity to not only create some of the most complex and interesting movements ever, but execute the design in an extremely well-thought-out wristwatch. They won the “Innovation” prize only last year at the GPHG with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and continue to leave jaws slack with some of their 2020 releases, with new offerings in the Overseas, Fiftysix and Traditionnelle families. And while all of these watches…

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Cartier 2020 collection 24.04.2020

Everything you need to know about the Cartier 2020 collection

Make no mistake, the Cartier 2020 collection is a cracker. Last year we were offered a smaller collection of watches that focused on the Santos and Tonneau shapes, but this year we get most of that and much, much more. The latest releases from Cartier are broken down into five distinct collections, but there’s also the welcome return of some of the earliest and most remarkable designs from the French luxury firm. The Santos-Dumont continues to shine as the backbone of the brand’s design philosophy with two revivals in the form of the Privé and Pasha de Cartier collections. The…

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Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots 23.04.2020

INTERVIEW: Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots is the first of his kind

The Rolex brand is older than the city of Canberra, a fact that shows not only Australia’s youth, but, by contrast, just how old watchmaking really is. It also surely makes Canberra one of the least likely places on earth to find someone in their mid-20s making a tourbillon pocket watch. Enter Reuben Schoots … Hidden away in his workshop, Schoots is working on a project that has likely never been attempted before in Australia. He is creating a pocket watch following the George Daniels method. That means entirely by hand. His prediction is that the watch will take around…

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Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock 22.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock

The more watches you see, the less likely it becomes that you see something you’ve never seen before. The Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock, however, is absolutely unlike anything I’ve seen before. While the case shape and dial layout has been seen, in different references within the Laureato collection, the eye-catching element of this watch is the case material. The watch is constructed in a proprietary material known as Carbon Glass, a name that perfectly encapsulates the layered crystalline aesthetic on display. Carbon itself is not a new material in watchmaking, and has been used in countless watches. Carbon Glass, on the…

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Cartier Santos-Dumont XL 19.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The new Cartier Santos-Dumont XL gets a mechanical upgrade and adds just 0.2mm in thickness

At SIHH in 2019, Cartier released something very special, and oddly, it was powered by stock standard quartz. The Cartier Santos-Dumont was met with a standing ovation, not just because it was remarkably faithful to some of the earliest watch designs from Cartier, but it was also slim and relatively affordable thanks to that humble quartz movement. The real boldness of the piece was in its diminutive size and thinness. It was something of a redefined version of masculine style. And it was a bullseye. Perhaps the only thing it lacked, for the watch journalists who care deeply about such…

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2020 new watches nicks favourites 19.04.2020

Nick’s 5 favourite new watches from the first quarter of 2020, including Audemars Piguet, Bulgari and H. Moser & Cie

For anyone reading this in April 2020, you’ll agree that it’s a strange time to be alive. Somehow, we have already seen three months of 2020, a point that has felt both incredibly fast and agonisingly slow to pass. As the interconnected health and economic crises continue to unfold around the world, the news cycle is dominated by Coronavirus as its impact is felt everywhere. Including the watch industry, with perhaps the peak announcement this last week that yet more pivotal brands would desert Baselworld after a farcical fallout from the first COVID-related cancellation. While some brands have halted production,…

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Seiko SBWA001 19.04.2020

Hunting (and catching) the epic and rare Seiko SBWA001 from 1999, the first-ever Spring Drive watch

The turn of the century gave us Y2K hysteria, the first use of the Euro as currency and the Spring Drive movement. That’s right, in 1999 we saw one of the most remarkable innovations in watchmaking of the last half-century, with the release of the first-ever Spring Drive powered watch, the Seiko SBWA001. This is the story of a reader by the name of Zach’s pursuit of one of these fairly rare watches that marked a new beginning for the Japanese manufacturer.  In June last year I was fortunate enough to attend the spectacular HSNY (Horological Society of New York)…

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Seiko 55th Anniversary dive watch collection 18.04.2020

VIDEO: All three limited edition watches from the new Seiko 55th Anniversary dive watch collection

This year, Seiko is celebrating 55 years since their first-ever dive watch, which was released in 1965. Since then, the dive watch has become a core part of Seiko’s offering, with innumerable watches released over the years, many of which have developed cult followings. To mark this occasion, Seiko have released a trio of limited edition watches, each paying tribute to an important dive watch from their archive. The three watches in question are based on references released in 1965, 1968 and 1975 respectively, and all still make up a significant part of their professional collection today. As I mentioned,…

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16.04.2020

Tasneem’s Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch connects him to more people on earth than he knew before

This week’s gone full Speedmaster. On Saturday, it was the 50th Anniversary of the Apollo 13 mission, deemed to be a “successful failure”, because there was indeed a major malfunction, but all astronauts on the mission lived to talk about it. I was very fortunate to have heard this story told by one of the men who played a part, US astronaut Jim Lovell – at the NASA Space Centre in Houston. In short, when all the astronauts had to cram into the lunar module to make it back to earth after an oxygen tank exploded on board, the Speedy…

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14.04.2020

Nick’s lockdown YouTube playlist feat. Russell Crowe, a very special Rolex and eagles at altitude

Recently, Andrew put together his greatest hits from the Time+Tide Watches YouTube channel, chronicling some of the finest pieces of information and entertainment-rich video we have ever produced. It wouldn’t be fair to let him have all the fun, though, so I put together my own list, much of which I enjoyed for years before I joined the Time+Tide team. You can find my full playlist of my highlights right here (close to 3 hours of viewing), but I also wanted to include a couple of my real favourites below. Russell Crowe on the stories behind his watches, and why…

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Swatch Sistem51 Petite Seconde 12.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The Swatch Sistem51 receives an elegance upgrade with the Petite Seconde

The Swatch Sistem51 collection centres its value proposition around two things the rest of the Swiss watch industry finds very much at odds — technical innovation and affordability. With the new Swatch Sistem51 Petite Seconde, we get both of those things in a classically dressed-up package, with the centre seconds of previous models moved to a sub-dial at six. After gaining global recognition as the Swiss answer to the quartz era, Swatch were limited by their own success for a period, as they only produced quartz-powered watches that were incredibly varied in style and relatively disposable in nature. This changed at…

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Cartier Pasha 12.04.2020

What Sealed The Deal – Fergus’ Cartier Pasha, a weird, wonderful and waterproof oddity

Editor’s note: The Cartier Pasha is a watch surrounded by curiosity. Legend has it that it was commissioned in the 1930s by the Pasha of Marrakesh, who wanted a watch he could take into the water. The design then lay dormant for decades, before it was revived in 1985 by one of the most creative minds the watch industry has ever seen, Gérald Genta. It isn’t a watch you see very often, in part because Cartier no longer produce it, and also because the generously embowed case, Vendome-style lugs and chained crown guard are no longer in white-hot vogue. To…

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Elvis Presley's gold Universal Geneve 12.04.2020

This curiously affordable gold Universal Genève owned by Elvis Presley is up for sale (again)

You may have heard the news that Tom Hanks and his wife Rita Wilson contracted coronavirus while filming the untitled Elvis Presley biopic in Australia; they are both reportedly recovering well, but Elvis fanatics will be champing at the bit for the production to ramp back up. It, like life as we know it, has been postponed. While the film is on hold, fans now have the chance to own one of The King’s personal timepieces – one that has had a torrid, and fairly low-rent ride through various auctions over the years, never achieving a fraction of the value of…

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Grand Seiko SLGA001 11.04.2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is big and brawny, but make no mistake, it has brains too

There’s no doubt about it. The latest 47mm professional dive watch from Grand Seiko makes a dramatic first impression, but that shouldn’t overshadow just how remarkable the technical achievements are inside that large and in charge case. The Grand Seiko SLGA001 certainly isn’t for the faint of wrist, measuring in at 46.9mm in diameter and 16mm tall, but the technology powering it is impressive to the highest degree. The new Spring Drive movement is thinner than its predecessor, as well as being more shock resistant thanks to a single-piece central bridge. It boasts a full five days of power reserve…

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Seiko SPB149J 10.04.2020

VIDEO: The Seiko SPB149J is a 2020 reimagining of the brand’s first-ever dive watch

We’ve become accustomed to the sight of a vintage reissue in the watch world. Some are good, some are just plain opportunistic and unimaginative, and some miss the mark completely. And the reason many miss the mark is an awkward straddling of the fence between the past and the present. The question boils down to the level of historical accuracy that is being attempted, and whether or not the watch pulls it off. The Seiko SPB149J is a modern reissue of the 62MAS, which was Seiko’s first ever dive watch and it opts to proffer a modern interpretation of the…

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history of quartz watches 09.04.2020

Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 2

Editor’s note: This is part 2 of a long read from the second edition of NOW Magazine, which you can pick up here. If you missed Part 1, you can find it right here. The story so far is a space race between America, Switzerland and Japan as they sought to manufacture battery powered quartz watches at scale.   On Christmas Day in 1969, Seiko beat both the Americans and the Swiss to the quartz punch when they released the gold-cased Astron. But while quartz was now on the scene, digital watches were en vogue, even gracing the wrist of James Bond when…

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history of quartz watches 08.04.2020

Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 1

The development of quartz technology essentially removed the need for the Swiss mechanical watchmaking industry. And yet, both the Swiss and quartz watches are still around. More than that, they’re sharing the bed. And getting more adventurous. Half a century ago, a watch was released that was powered by a battery, and cost the equivalent of a family car. The Seiko Astron spelled the dawn of a new age in watchmaking, one that was moving the industry out of the hands of the solitary craftsman and onto the factory floor. In any industry that has operated the same way for…

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Glashütte Original Sixties blue 04.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The glacial glory of the Glashütte Original Sixties blue Annual Edition for 2020

Bold colours and textures. That’s how you could quickly sum up the Sixties collection that has been the vintage-inspired darling of the Glashütte Original lineup ever since they hit the scene. This year, the German-based manufacture has turned the volume down, opting for a much cooler and more restrained expression of the collection with glacier blue dials for the first time ever. Available in both time-only and chronograph formats, this could be a compelling collection for those who love the vintage cues of the Sixties collection but prefer to keep what is on their wrist under the radar a little…

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Seiko SPB149J 02.04.2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB149J

Dive watches have come a very long way in 55 years. It was 1965 when Seiko first dipped their toe into the waters of serious dive watches when they released the Seiko automatic 6217 62MAS, water resistant to 150m. Featuring large luminous hands and hour markers, a rotating dive 60-minute bezel and a rubber strap, it already had all the ingredients of the modern-day dive watch. To pay tribute to this special watch, and the legacy of diving watches that it gave birth to, Seiko have released a collection of limited edition watches inspired by important historic references, three of…

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Mido Baroncelli Big Date Limited Edition 29.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The perfect date night, Mido Baroncelli Big Date Limited Edition

The unending pursuit by watch companies of the most commercially successful blue dial watch with integrated steel bracelet has left a lot of empty space for other expressions of a blue dial wristwatch. With their latest expression of the Big Date, Mido have grasped this empty space with both hands, producing a watch that has a deep blue dial, but is encased in a rose gold tone case, and strapped to the wrist with a matching midnight blue leather strap. It isn’t a watch that has already been done to death, and to add to the refreshing take, the aptly…

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G-Shock watches new 2020 review 29.03.2020

G-Shock are losing the plot, and we’re loving it

We are only three months into 2020, and G-Shock have already been going hard — really hard. That’s right, not only have they released dozens of new watches across a range of different collections since the beginning of 2020, but many of those are pretty remarkable in their own right, some tracking heart rate or surf beach conditions, with others paying tribute to Kung fu legend Bruce Lee or representing streetwear label KITH. There is genuinely something for everyone, so let’s take a look at five of the coolest 2020 G-Shock watches. G-Shock X KITH GM-6900 Life is good when…

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Omega De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition 28.03.2020

Long read: Omega De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition, a piece of watchmaking history

George Daniels is almost universally recognised as the greatest watchmaker of his lifetime, and even if you haven’t heard of him, you might have seen evidence of his work on the dial of millions of Omega watches around the world — the words CO-AXIAL. His most significant contribution to watchmaking was the development of his co-axial escapement, the first serious step forward in watchmaking in more than 200 years, and was first put to work in the Omega De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition. That’s right, not much had changed in two centuries before Daniels began his work. His co-axial escapement…

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2020 Seiko 27.03.2020

Your questions about the 2020 Seiko and Grand Seiko collections are answered here

This week we were lucky enough to have a number of the latest releases from Seiko and Grand Seiko in the office, and we put the call out to Time+Tide readers to find out the questions they had about these new pieces. If you missed the Q&A on Instagram stories (you can still find them in the Seiko and Grand Seiko highlights on @timetidewatches), we’ve collated those questions and their answers right here. If you had any questions on the new collection that you didn’t get to ask, don’t hesitate to send us a direct message and we’ll do our…

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Kevin O'Leary watches 26.03.2020

7 of Shark Tank investor Kevin O’Leary’s watch collecting commandments

“It’s completely irrational. It’s a horrible affliction,” says Kevin O’Leary. “Once you’re infected, you have to deal with it. You have to live with the disease.” Just like that, the Shark Tank personality confirms he isn’t just another rich guy with a bunch of rich-guy watches. He is one of us. He has fallen, quickly, and with unstoppable momentum, down the horological rabbit hole we call home. While that metaphor — of watch collecting being akin to an infection, a disease — now takes on a different spin in these COVID-19 days, it is still the only one that works…

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Great 'Grams 21.03.2020

Great ‘Grams: The Fun Edition

This week in Great ‘Grams I wanted to focus on the more lighthearted side of the hobby, and probably the initial reason many of us became interested in horology — it’s fun. It’s fun to learn about a totally new version of a watch you thought you were familiar with, and it’s fun to ooh and aah at a gem-set masterpiece because for some reason even though you might never own it, there is a part of you that is glad it exists. It’s also a lot of fun to meet other passionate people through this hobby: the founders of brands…

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Franck Muller manufacture 20.03.2020

Welcome to Watchland, the story of the Franck Muller manufacture

From Watchland, the Genevan estate where Franck Muller is based, you are able to look out across the calm blue waters of Lake Geneva to the far bank, and in the distance gaze up at the white peak of Mont Blanc. In this postcard setting, Watchland is an open expanse of chalet-style buildings designed by the Swiss architect Edmond Fatio, punctuated with manicured gardens that remind of the calm grounds of Versailles. This year, Franck Muller announced that Watchland had been renovated extensively, with two new buildings constructed in the same style as the rest of the estate, which dates…

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Franck Muller Vanguard Classic 18.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach

Fans of Franck Muller will know there is something in the Vanguard collection for everyone. With more than 30 different references in the current lineup, including chronographs, tourbillons and skeletonised movements, the independent watchmaker has ensured that no matter where you want to take your watch, there is a generously curved creation for you. Despite the range of options, each reference evokes a specific lifestyle that each watch is suited to, be it for the international money mover, or the type who prefers to spend their time on the deck of a yacht. When it comes to the Franck Muller…

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best watches under $500 17.03.2020

13 of the best watches under $500 that get watch snobs’ approval

With all the uncertainty in the world right now, spending several months’ salary on a watch might seem like an idea that can wait a while. But for those in the watch community, the idea of not knowing where your next drink is coming from can be an uncomfortable feeling. With that in mind, let’s take a look at some of the best watches you can currently buy that will scratch that new-watch itch, without meaning you have to go without toilet paper for the next few months. So without further ado, let’s get better acquainted with a few of…

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Rolex shuts down production 17.03.2020

BREAKING NEWS: Rolex shuts down production for 10 days, closing three factories

Rolex Chief Executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour has today informed Rolex staff that they will be shutting down three factories in response to the increasing threat of COVID-19, from 5pm today. First reported by WatchPro USA, the news of the shut down was shared to Rolex employees in a letter, indicating the shut-down is set to last 10 days. Factories will look to reopen on March 27, should the danger of Coronavirus been seen to have reduced during that period. In an environment where many Rolex models, specifically stainless steel Professional models, are very difficult to purchase at retail due to immense…

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Chanel J12 X-Ray 15.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life

Transparency is almost always a good thing, be it in political donations, corporate bonuses or who your local member of parliament is having lunch with. It is a concept that Chanel has adopted as a motif in their watchmaking department, seen in the Boy.Friend Skeleton, their remarkable Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch (an almost US$800,000 skeletonised pocket watch set with 7.12 carats of baguette diamonds and held in an 18k white gold and obsidian lion-themed stand), and now most recently with the Chanel J12 X-Ray. The J12 collection has been making significant strides into the horological landscape of late, winning the…

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independent watchmakers 14.03.2020

Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition

This week on Great ’Grams, it’s all about independent watchmakers, and taking a look at the many different ways these patrons of watchmaking go about their work. One such independent watchmaker is Franck Muller, a man whose factory is known for producing sveltely curved and complicated watches but was once something of a traditionalist. The remarkable creativity and design ingenuity saw him make one of the most remarkable watches in the collection of one of the most remarkable musicians of this generation, none other than Jay-Z. Franck Muller was the man responsible for an unusual Rolex perpetual calendar that is…

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Apple Watch Series 5 review 14.03.2020

IN-DEPTH: The Apple Watch Series 5 review for people on the go

As I mentioned in my video review of the Apple Watch Series 5, this isn’t the sort of watch that Time+Tide typically reviews. But since 2017, when the Series 2 was launched, the Apple Watch has made headline after headline as it sold millions of units and increasingly worried Swiss watch executives. This shifted the Apple Watch away from being just another piece of consumer electronics to a well-designed object that deserves the same level of scrutiny as a mechanical watch, for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the Apple Watch isn’t going anywhere, and while there are certainly positive impacts…

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Sinn 903 Chronograph 12.03.2020

What Sealed The Deal: Colin’s Sinn 903 Chronograph

Sometimes, a Time+Tide Watches reader will share a small piece of watchmaking history that makes us turn to each other and wonder how we hadn’t know about it before. This is exactly what happened when Colin strolled into the T+T HQ to look at a couple of DOXA watches, with a familiar looking watch on his wrist, with an unfamiliar name on its dial. He was wearing a Sinn 903 Chronograph, which looked a lot like a Breitling Navitimer from across the room but, as he explained, it was one of the unusual effects of the quartz era. In 1979…

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Grand Seiko SLGA001 10.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is their best dive watch yet

This year is a big one for Grand Seiko as it is the 60th anniversary of the brand, a number already made special with several limited editions. Over the last few days they have released several more, one of which is arguably their most impressive dive watch yet. Say hello to the Grand Seiko SLGA001, a titanium diving watch that is powered by a brand new Spring Drive movement, and is water resistant to 600m. Before we get to why the new movement is important, let’s focus on the case and dial. At 46.9mm x 16mm, the dimensions are initially…

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Franck Muller Master Banker 03.03.2020

INTRODUCING: The triple threat of the Franck Muller Master Banker in steel

Franck Muller is known as the Master of Complications, and for good reason. Almost none of the watches produced by the Genevan watchmaker are straightforward, with watches that run backward, hour hands that jump around the dial, and a host of other marvels of mechanical engineering that both surprise and delight. This flair for the complex is seen clearly in the Franck Muller Master Banker collection, a family of watches with a tonneau-shaped case that houses a movement capable of showing three time zones at once – perfect for the international finance professional tracking the global markets. The elegant curves…

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HSNY 02.03.2020

Weekend Watch Spotting – Very rare Rolex spotted in the HSNY Edition

This weekend we were lucky enough to be visited by the fantastic team from the Horological Society of New York, who were in Australia offering watchmaking classes to a few very passionate Melburnians. It was an evening that also celebrated the incredible generosity of the watch community at large, which was shown through the recent Time+Tide Watch & Act! Auction to raise money for those affected by the devastating bushfires over this summer. A number of watch manufacturers, media outlets and even private collectors offered pieces for auction, which were enthusiastically bid on by watch lovers from around the world…

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Baselworld bought 29.02.2020

No Baselworld this year, for the first time since World War 1

It was only a day ago that the watch world was reacting to the cancellation of Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH), as a result of the increasing spread of the Coronavirus, and wondering if Baselworld would suffer the same fate in 2020. Overnight, the answer was given, as Baselworld announced that it would be “postponed” until January 2021 due to an official ban by the Swiss authorities on large-scale public events. This is not a surprising decision by Baselworld management, but still a significant one in the context of the challenges the fair has faced in recent years, as…

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Minimalist Watch Brand 28.02.2020

How to make money by starting a Minimalist watch brand

Editor’s note: The Minimalist watch brand is an unrelenting feature in the Sponsored section of your Instagram feed, and isn’t going away anytime soon. So if you were thinking of capitalising on some horological high-street chic without wasting any time in learning about the history of watchmaking, please enjoy this step-by-step guide to starting your own minimalist watch brand. It’s not as hard as you think.  We all have friends who wear watches made by brands like Daniel Wellington and The Horse. We also all know that these watches are, essentially, identical. Yet somehow these simple quartz dress watch lookalikes seem…

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Cartier 28.02.2020

Great ‘Grams: The Cartier edition

As you might have picked up if you follow me on Instagram (@nick.kenyon), I have a soft spot for design-focused watches, generally on the smaller side of 40mm and especially those that are vintage. As a result, one of my favourite brands is Cartier, thanks to the strength and consistency that has been present in their designs for more than a hundred years. In that spirit, I wanted to share a few sensational posts I saw this week that were showing off the range of design and technical prowess on offer from Cartier. @misterenthusiast The grey works sooooo well 😍…

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Watches & Wonders 28.02.2020

Coronavirus cancels Watches & Wonders 2020, is Baselworld next?

Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH) has been cancelled in an announcement by the FHH overnight, as a result of the growing concerns around the Coronavirus and its spread throughout the world. This comes off the back of both Citizen and Bulova announcing their withdrawal from Baselworld just days ago, and adds Watches & Wonders to the growing list of watch industry events that have been cancelled due to the virus. The most notable of these cancellations have been the Swatch Group retail and press event Time to Move, and the Grand Seiko Summit, which was to be held in…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved 25.02.2020

Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a paragon of the Art Deco dress watch style, delivering a clean and classic design that has remained the same for the best part of a hundred years. While most watches with a solid caseback offer ample space for an engraving, the Reverso offers more than most thanks to its beautifully designed ability to flip the watch dial over to face the wrist, exposing the caseback to the elements. As most will know, this ingenious technique for hiding the dial from the rest of the world was born on the polo fields of India, where players…

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Swiss watch exports Coronavirus 23.02.2020

BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH

While the Coronavirus outbreak certainly offers a number of reasons for the watch industry at large to be concerned, its effects haven’t been severely felt yet. According to recent data from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the first month of 2020 has seen strong watch sales, with a 9.4 per cent increase in Swiss watch exports compared to January 2019. This is specifically seen in watches priced over 500 CHF, with a reportedly negative trend for watches priced under 200 CHF, further confirming the aggressive drop in appetite for Swiss-made quartz watches (which have seen a 35 per…

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Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N 23.02.2020

The revitalising energy of the Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N

Editor’s note: The Tudor Black Bay symbolised a new chapter in the journey of the Rolex-owned watchmaker, with the decision to look back into their archives to build their future collections proving a very popular one. Inspired by the Tudor Submariners of the mid-1950s, the Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N is a thoroughly modern interpretation of an iconic tool watch that walks the tightrope of historical design cues and contemporary wearability. Let’s take a closer look at one of the watches that put Tudor back on the map.  The story in a second: We’ve been waiting three long years for…

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world timer 21.02.2020

Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition

The world timer complication on a wristwatch has been popular for decades, long before the commercialisation of the jet aircraft, thanks to its clean simplicity and obvious usefulness. The capacity for a watch to tell you the time anywhere in the world, without the need for a highly complicated dial layout or training in pure mathematics, was as profound as it was a sign of the times when it was first invented – in 1931, the world was already shrinking. The world timer complication has only become more relevant over the last nine decades, with more business happening across time…

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Fabien Cousteau 19.02.2020

IN CONVERSATION: With ocean explorer Fabien Cousteau

Google Maps has done a good job of ruining the job of the safari-suited explorer, taking crystal clear pictures of the entire surface of the rock we call home. Where there is hope for the Indiana Jones’ of the world is what lies beneath the surface, where under the white-capped waves of the world’s oceans only five per cent has been properly explored. It is this unknown factor, and the consequential opportunity for discovery, which gets ocean explorer, diver and conservationist Fabien Cousteau out of bed each morning. While it certainly isn’t a career path that high school counsellors are…

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Valentine's Day watch 14.02.2020

HOW TO: Buy a Valentine’s Day watch in 90 secs

Buying a watch for anyone other than yourself is a difficult thing to do, for exactly the same reasons it is so enjoyable to wear a watch at all – it is a deeply personal decision. This challenge is amplified when you’re faced with the 14th of February, and are standing at the counter of a boutique with three watches in front of you, unable to be sure of which is the best one. Luckily for you, we have arranged a 90-second refresher on what to consider when purchasing a Valentine’s Day watch for your significant other, which outlines the…

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14.02.2020

Great ‘Grams: Dial details and custom cases

This week on Great ‘Grams we get up close and personal with the number of the beast, a custom Eastern Arabic dial from an independent watchmaker, and a very rare Rolex thought to be sold by a retailer off the coast of Miami. The Bahamas-based retailer in question is John Bull, established in 1929 and a current-day Authorised Dealer of Rolex, who once sold some rather unusual sports watches. There is little information out there on these watches, but it seems that John Bull would modify the cases of a handful of Rolex watches with a bark finish and engrave…

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Great 'Grams 07.02.2020

Great ‘Grams: A tennis superstar, a unique Rolex

This week on Great ’Grams, we’ve got a tennis superstar, a fully custom wristwatch by George Daniels, and a southpaw Rolex Day-Date, and more. The tennis superstar in question is none other than Gaël Monfils, who this week posted about a new Instagram account he has started (@myson.watches) that will focus specifically on his watch collection. In his post announcing the account, he was wearing what appears to be a Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator 5235G, a watch that is as unusual as it is under-appreciated, and certainly a piece that requires an immersion in the world of Patek Philippe…

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Rado Bethan Grey 06.02.2020

The dial on on this Rado is absolutely crazy …

Rado are well known for their collaborations with important designers from around the world. Famous names who have designed watches for Rado include English product designer Jasper Morrison, Taiwanese graphic designer Leslie Chan, and more recently the renowned Welsh furniture designer Bethan Gray. The Rado True Thinline Studs Limited Edition is a meeting of Rado’s expertise in high-tech ceramic as a case material, and Bethan’s interest in traditional craft, and how she can tell that story through design. I was fortunate enough to sit down with Bethan to discuss the drivers of her design process and what it was like designing…

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Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary 03.02.2020

INTRODUCING: The bold and blue Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary

Most brands enjoy celebrating anniversaries based around the centenary, but not Grand Seiko, and it actually makes sense. In watchmaking, the number 60 is significantly more important than 50, as it takes 60 seconds to make a minute, and 60 minutes to make an hour, as well as that in Japan the number 60 signifies the beginning of a new life cycle. As a result, the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary is being celebrated with the release of a number of new limited editions. The brand has released four new references, and all are offered with stunning blue dials, the signature…

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Patek Philippe Solar Clock 01.02.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock

While Patek Philippe are kept most popularly in the mind today through a handful of steel sports watches and the lyrics of chart-topping songs, the company has a history of remarkable innovation that is sometimes overlooked. In the middle of last century — 1950 to be precise — the Genevan firm released a solar-powered table clock, an invention that predated their first-ever automatic wristwatch movement by several years. It is surprising that Patek Philippe were actively investing in light-powered technology so long ago, as even today most watch companies choose not to work with solar power in favour of battery or mechanically…

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titanium Doxa 31.01.2020

Great ‘Grams: A titanium DOXA and a Compax close-up

Welcome back to Great ’Grams, where I pick my favourite Instagram posts of the last week and, my word, were there some great stories that hit the feed. One of the coolest I saw was from Jason Heaton, a watch writer and scuba diver, who was selling a very special DOXA to raise funds for an even more exciting project he is working on. The watch in question was a titanium DOXA that was made specifically for Fabien Cousteau’s Mission 31 expedition, where he and his team would spend 31 days in an underwater habitat to conduct marine research. Jason…

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31.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction – The Final Additions #2

Finally, we have the last additions to the “Watch & Act!” Auction. Lot 22: TAG Heuer – Unique Piece, Autavia Caliber 5 ‘Watch & Act!’ Edition First released in 2019, this collection represented the first time the name Autavia had been given to a time-only watch, which is originally a portmanteau of automobile and aviation and used for chronograph tool watches. This TAG Heuer Autavia Caliber 5 is offered in a warmly toned bronze case that complements the graduated moss green dial and strap, and is framed by the ceramic bezel. This model was chosen by TAG Heuer to “symbolise…

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31.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction – The Final Additions #1

Over the next two posts, we’ll be showing the final additions to the “Watch & Act!” Auction. Lot 19: Baltic Watches – Aquascaphe Prototype Based out of France, Baltic Watches have carved themselves a niche in producing watches inspired by the second half of the 20th century, with a range of genuinely attractive references that have proven themselves to be hugely popular with watch enthusiasts around the world. After the roaring success of the Bicompax chronograph release, they immediately began work on their vision of a diving watch, which resulted in this Baltic Watches Aquascaphe Prototype. While several elements of…

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31.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 18: Montblanc Heritage with a sleek salmon dial

Montblanc’s Heritage Collection draws inspiration heavily from the watchmaker Minerva and the timepieces they produced in the ’40s and ’50s. And there’s a very good reason why – Montblanc owns the once great Minerva. As a result, we get great-looking watches like this – the Montblanc Heritage Automatic. Replete with its period correct and vogue salmon dial, this elegant three-hander offers a great amount of vintage flair and modern technicality. Housed inside the subtly rounded 40mm stainless steel case, which is just 11.65mm thick, you’ll find Montblanc’s Calibre MB 24.26. This trusty self-winding movement offers 38 hours of power reserve,…

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31.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross

This eye-catching special edition, launched at the Dubai Watch Week 2019, features a satin-finished steel case and lush starburst dial inspired by the green in the UAE flag – a colour chosen to inspire hope, growth and prosperity – and four Hindi Arabic numerals painted in Super-LumiNova. This is the first Bell & Ross model to ever feature Hindi Arabic numerals. This watch has been generously donated by Seddiqi Holdings. What we like about it It’s pretty well established in the watch world at the moment that green dials are just better. Case in point is this limited edition Bell…

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Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition 31.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 16: It’s a Rado Ashleigh Barty party and you’re invited

World women’s number one tennis player Ash Barty has collaborated with Rado to release a watch this year, bringing us the Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition, a white-hot polished ceramic watch that matches perfectly with the uniform of Wimbledon, which was her first junior Grand Slam win – ahead of her career-defining Grand Slam win at the French Open in 2019. Taking advantage of Rado’s expertise in ceramics, both the case and bracelet of the watch have been produced in a polished white ceramic, with the case reinforced with stainless steel. The bracelet is finished with a deployant clasp…

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best watches on bracelets 28.01.2020

13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019

Watches on bracelets are great for a multitude of reasons. They are both durable and comfortable, relatively easy to adjust and aren’t ruined if you go swimming with them … all pointing to it being hard to go wrong if you get a watch with a bracelet. Besides, it’s always better to buy your watch with a bracelet if you can, because leather straps are much of a muchness, but the variation in a bracelet that might suit your watch is endless. With that in mind, let’s take a closer look at some of the best watches on bracelets from…

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Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase 28.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture

The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively located at three and nine o’clock. The elegant curved dial merges seamlessly with the case and features printed Roman numeral indexes and hand-polished hands. Finally, the blue crocodile leather strap completes the look. The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is powered by the…

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Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph 28.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph

With its striking appearance, the ‘Full Black’ Alpina 4 Manufacture Flyback Chronograph demonstrates an aggressive and distinctive personality. The model features an intense black PVD-coated case made out of stainless steel. The black dial with beige luminous pearl black applied indexes, matching the luminous beige hands, provides a stealthy, slightly vintage look. Note the ergonomically shaped chronograph push-pieces, screw-down winding and setting crown, and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. It can withstand a water pressure of up to 10 atmospheres, equivalent to a diving depth of 100 metres. The ‘Full Black’ manufacture movement is powered by the AL-760 movement, comprising 233 components…

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130 Years of Doxa 28.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA

Released at Baselworld 2019, this SUB 200 130th Anniversary Limited Edition diver’s watch was profoundly popular, and the run of 130 pieces sold out almost before it was released. Time+Tide’s own stock of this model, 30 pieces, was sold in just under two hours. We are offering our own archive piece for sale here, brand new in support of the ‘Watch & Act!’ auction — and to put our own money, a second time, where our mouth is. It has a case of 316L stainless steel and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. Special touches on the Limited…

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Frederique Constant 28.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant

This classic three-handed model from Frederique Constant, with gloss black dial, is a dress watch par excellence. It is presented here with high-polished baton indices, razor-sharp sword hands and an elegant crocodile strap. It is generously donated by Sydney’s Wamada Jewellery, Watchfest and the Sydney Chinese Community. The Classics Index Automatic is a symphony of sleek, clean lines, and an elegant black dial that coheres raw classicism and modern-day design. The Classics Index Automatic is powered by the FC-303 automatic caliber with 26 jewels, and runs at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a 38-hour power reserve. The…

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ceramic Bausele 28.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference

The Bausele Pilot Automatic All Black features an unusual and eye-catching dial layout. The dial has been rotated, moving the 12 from where it normally sits to what is traditionally the two o’clock position. Built with the modern aviator in mind, it is a functional choice, allowing the time to be easily read without removing the hand from the controls. Taking a closer look at the dial, the hour markers are red numerals that have been applied onto carbon fibre discs. The hands and hour markers are lumed, making the watch easy to read. The altimeter-style date window is both…

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Seiko Prospex 28.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 10: Dive into the world of Seiko Prospex

In the world of Seiko diving watches, the collection of watches known as Prospex is actually a contraction of ‘Professional Specifications’, a reference to the very high standards that the watches are manufactured to. As a result, all watches in the collection are remarkably robust, water resistant and built with ultimate functionality in mind. In the Seiko Prospex SPB101J1, we are offered a stainless steel sports watch that’s not only water resistant to 200 metres, but also has workhorse automatic movement and an impressive build quality for the price point. The black bezel and dial create a high contrast canvas…

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James Morrison 28.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 9: An Oris from the jazz man James Morrison

This Oris jazz watch is an homage to the Australian jazz musician James Morrison. It features a gradient ‘dégradé’ blue dial and a caseback engraved with the Academy of Music logo, with contrasting Arabic numerals marking the hours. The golden seconds hand counterbalance is shaped like a trumpet hook, inspired by James’ favourite instrument. This watch – engraved #2 of 1234 – is the first numbered edition available for purchase, with #1 going to the museum as a matter of course. This watch is generously donated by Oris, with the enthusiastic support of the man himself, James Morrison. What we…

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Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph 27.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The Modern DOXA with a vintage movement

Last year, fans were delighted with the release of the DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph, a steel cushion-cased chronograph with an iconic DOXA orange dial. Based on a historical reference from 1969, the SUB 200 T.Graph is part of the brand’s revitalisation over recent years, which included the release of the same chronograph, except in solid gold rather than steel. What is particularly interesting with the release of both the stainless steel and gold examples is that DOXA has chosen to furnish them with vintage manual-winding Valjoux 7734 movements. Preserved by the brand for decades, before being restored and updated to…

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Zenith Pilot Rescue ‘Australian Rescue’ Edition 27.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 7: One of a kind with the Zenith Pilot Rescue ‘Australian Rescue’ Edition

This unique piece, with a custom Australian-themed caseback and unique dial, has been conceived and created from scratch by the brilliant minds driving Zenith’s groundbreaking new era. It combines the slate grey dial of the brand new ‘Rescue’ series of Pilots, with a bronze case to dramatic effect. The blood-red crossed axe motif on the dial is another reminder of both its uniqueness and its mission. It is engraved with the words ‘Australian Rescue Edition – Unique Piece’ on the caseback. This watch is generously donated by Zenith. This Piece Unique watch from Zenith is based on the Pilot Type…

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limited edition Nick Hacko 27.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 6: A limited edition Nick Hacko born in Sydney

This watch comes with a moving personal story. The first of a run of 200 ‘Mark 1’ models that are keenly being awaited by their future owners, it was actually a present from Sydney watchmaker Nicholas Hacko to his wife: “It is a very special watch for her, and she is parting with it in both sadness and joy that the money will go to a good cause.” The watch is in mint condition with a new kangaroo strap fitted. The Mark 1 is assembled from the components of 11 part manufacturers who make components based on Hacko’s design drawings.…

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double signed Rolex 26.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting

Double-signed dials are the perfect example of how the details of a watch are sometimes the most interesting, revealing not just where a watch might have been sold, but opening up a window into the past to expose key relationships and macroeconomic trends that affected how the business of selling watches was done. Double-signed dials that show both the name of the watch brand and the retailer who sold the watch have increased in recent popularity, with auction house Phillips curating a special sale “Double Signed” which sold both vintage and modern watches that featured double signatures (including important Zurich…

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great 'grams 24.01.2020

Great ‘Grams: MLK Day, Joshua Trees, and a very special AP

This week the US celebrated Martin Luther King Day, a reminder of Mr King’s work as a civil rights leader campaigning against segregation, and also a reminder that our efforts to build a more equal world mustn’t subside as we move forward. To mark the occasion, the watch collecting community was offered a post of a very important Patek Philippe pocket watch with an equally important engraving on the caseback. We were also treated to a new limited edition from Audemars Piguet, produced for one of their most successful markets, and a damn cool shot of a Bremont A-10 a…

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Longines Heritage 23.01.2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 4: A classic from the Longines Heritage Collection

The Heritage Diver 1967 was released at the first Basel we attended as Time+Tide, so it holds special significance. It was also one of our favourite releases of the year, with its heft, heritage-correct styling and dashing colour scheme, it photographed beautifully and remains a solid submarine option in the truest sense. This watch is generously donated by Swatch Group Australia. Longines have got a lot of things right about this design, particularly on the dial. Sure, the original watch was a bi-compax chronograph with no date, but other than that, the handset is perfect (so ’60s), and the indices…

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Cartier Mystery Clock 22.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery

Louis Cartier has an important place in the history of the Cartier company, not only because he ran the first-ever Paris boutique but because he was responsible for one of the most enigmatic creations the brand released, the Cartier Mystery Clock. The origins of the Mystery Clock are found in 1912, when Louis Cartier began developing the playfully puzzling clocks with his watchmaker Maurice Coüet who, in turn, had studied the designs of the French magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin (who inspired Ehrich Weiss to adopt the stage name Houdini). The result was one of Cartier’s most enduring designs, inspiring a sense…

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History of Chopard L.U.C 21.01.2020

VIDEO: The History of Chopard L.U.C watchmaking

Chopard have been an important firm in the Swiss luxury landscape since they were founded in 1860, but they weren’t always the house of haute horology that they are today. It wasn’t until just over a quarter of a century ago, in 1993, when Karl-Friedrich Scheufele made the decision to refocus the brand’s energies into the art of watchmaking, and only thee years later marked an important year in the history of Chopard L.U.C as they launched their first in-house movement. Since then, the in-house component of Chopard’s watchmaking has gone from strength to strength, developing new movements at a…

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17.01.2020

Great ‘Grams: A beautiful Bulgari and more …

Welcome back to Great ’Grams, where we take a look at some of my favourite Instagram posts of the last week, by some of the most interesting people in the watch world. Last week we spanned the gulf of limited edition A. Lange & Söhne to the best in vintage Seiko and more, but this week I saw some genuinely excellent vintage Rolex and the delivery of the most accurate watch in the world. Let’s get to it. @petitesecondes This Friday is in need of some serious lume action 😎. The blue dial Tudor Pelagos in full flight, bubbling with…

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16.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this man the King of Cartier?

Harry Fane is one of the world’s foremost experts in Cartier, not just watches but the entire gamut of objets d’art that have been produced by the brand for more than 150 years. He cites his specific interest in the brand as being the golden age of the luxury maison from a creative standpoint, regarded as falling between 1919 and 1939, when some of the most important designs from the brand were developed. One of the reasons for Mr Fane’s fascination? A part of it boils down to the ambition to make the quotidian more beautiful. “Cartier had a great…

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vintage Patek Philippe 14.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with one of the world’s foremost vintage Patek Philippe collectors

John Reardon is one of the world’s foremost experts on collectible vintage watches, having recently left his position as Christie’s International Head of Watches, and one of the areas he is most passionate about is vintage Patek Philippe. So what better way to express that passion and put his wealth of knowledge to good use than start his own dealership of vintage Patek Philippe? He launched Collectability to guide interested members of the watch world on their Patek Philippe collecting journey, buying and selling only the rarest and most interesting pieces produced by the Calatrava cross-bearing manufacturer, offering everything including…

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custom Patek Philippe Nautilus 13.01.2020

Drake shows us “Life is Good” with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director

Drake recently took to Instagram to let us know about his latest watch acquisition — a fully custom Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726 that had been black DLC-coated and gem-set with dozens of emeralds. While Drake is well known for his love of the Genevan firm, this watch was special for a couple of reasons. Firstly, he posted the image of the watch only hours after fellow rapper Future released his latest track, Life is Good, which Drake features heavily on. In the song, Drake drops a hint about the timepiece he is about to show-off on Instagram, rapping,…

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Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition 13.01.2020

What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition

Editor’s note: The hunt for a new watch is, for many watch enthusiasts, a huge part of the collecting experience. It isn’t enough to simply buy a watch, but a watch must be searched for long and hard, with its eventual discovery making the acquisition all the more exciting. This is the story of Joseph and his hunt for an Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition. This is a tale of an Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition that was one of only 2998 pieces … seven months’ perfection, six years’ lust, three countries and two continents, and one hospital trip. The Omega Speedmaster…

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11.01.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: DIY watch waterproofing

The topic of watch water resistance is a tried and true watch forum favourite, showing just how motivated watch enthusiasts are to keep their wristwatches running underwater. If it’s expressed in bar, metres or feet, anyone who has spent a few months salary on a new watch is understandably interested in keeping their watch away from the limits of the reported water resistance, just in case disaster should strike. What most of those watch owners don’t know, however, is there is a method to ensure the water resistance of their watch from the comfort of their own home. That’s right,…

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2019 $20k Fantasy Watch Collection 10.01.2020

Nick’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection

Selecting the best watches of 2019 with an unlimited budget is one thing. But those of us who aren’t hip-hop stars or oil tycoons have to comply with the tiresome reality of financial constraints. Which leads us to the challenge of selecting a $20K Fantasy Watch Collection from 2019. Here’s my hit list that sneaks in five watches just under the limit, to a total of AUD $19,785. Longines Heritage Classic The Longines Heritage Classic was one of the best watches of 2019, hands down. It felt like Longines listened to all of the complaints about recent heritage reissues, and…

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Great ‘Grams 10.01.2020

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania It’s the start of a new decade, and as we hit the Roaring ’20s, there’s no sign that anyone is spending any less time on Instagram — especially if they love watches. With that in mind, I thought I’d do my best to put all of the time I spend on the ’gram to good use, and wrap up my five favourite posts of the previous week, in what will aim to be across a range. After all, if you ever find yourself scrolling through the feed and bored, you aren’t following…

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Tissot Seastar 1000 09.01.2020

Two years after its release, this Tissot is still one of the best value propositions on the market

Editor’s note: When you’re looking to buy your next watch, you want to know you’re getting great value for the money you’re spending. This Tissot Seastar 1000 could still be one of the best value watches on the market after its release at Baselworld 2018, and there’s no sign of that changing. Let’s take a closer look at this beautiful example of “bang for buck”.  This is such a great watch. Honestly. I can’t think of many (if any) Swiss-made watches that offer such a punchy package for this sort of price. Not only do you get the impressive Powermatic…

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Hublot boutique in Sydney 07.01.2020

The first ever Australian Hublot boutique in Sydney offers an exciting future

It’s been a very busy month in Sydney’s watch retail space with a number of brands opening their doors, and an exciting Swiss brand has entered the fray with the first ever standalone Australian Hublot boutique in Sydney. Located in the heart of Sydney on King Street, the new space embodies the brand’s motto of “The Art of Fusion”, blending marble and glass in the form of alchemy that only Hublot has mastered. Throughout the boutique, the walls are covered in mirrors and pop-art, expressing a playfulness of light and space that is also expressed in Hublot’s watches, especially through…

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Favourite Watches of 2019 03.01.2020

Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019

The more you look at different watches, the more critical you become, as you better understand what the watchmaker and designer were trying to achieve, and how successful they were at executing it in the final watch. This year, I got a lot of opportunities to handle hundreds of different watches, both new and vintage, and after thinking for a couple of weeks about the best of the new watches, these are my five favourites of 2019. Longines Heritage Classic It unfortunately isn’t often that brands nail the details of heritage-inspired wristwatches, but for me, Longines accomplished just that with…

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01.01.2020

Letter from the Deputy Editor: 2019 in review

As we float about in the liminal space between Christmas and the new year, it’s a great chance to reflect on the year that the watch world was in 2019. Andrew mentioned in his Letter from the Editor that 2019 could be defined by the hysterical focus on SSR (stainless steel Rolex), as well as similar watches from both Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. As a result, this has certainly been a part of almost daily discussion in the Time+Tide office. It might be an eye-watering auction result, a watch listed for sale online at double retail, or a question…

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Favourite Watch Photos from 2019 30.12.2019

LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019

I asked Jason, Time+Tide’s resident photographer, if he could tell me his favourite watch photos from 2019 that he had captured, without quite realising the sheer scope of the work that he had done this year. I soon found out.  “Hey Jason, how many photos have you taken this year?” “How many have I edited, or how many have been published?” “No, how many times have you pressed the button on your camera?”  “Oh, that’s a big number. Tens of thousands, easy.”  So out of the tens of thousands of shutter clicks that happened since we last lapped the sun…

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23.12.2019

The Horological Society of New York is coming to Melbourne, and you’re invited – Feb 29th and March 1st

The Horological Society of New York, the oldest watchmaking guild in America, formed 1866, is one of the world’s leading educators on all things watchmaking and horology. For the first time ever they are coming to Australia. We are proud to be the official media partner for the tour. We are joining with event partner, The Hour Glass, to make this maiden voyage a smashing success. Classes will run on February 29 and March 1. Buy tickets here.  The esteemed guild will be offering classes in Melbourne on how your mechanical watch works — covering everything from how the escapement works…

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Apple Watch Series 5 20.12.2019

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Apple Watch Series 5

There have only ever been three smart watch reviews in the three thousand review history of Time+Tide. Which makes this review special. The reason we wanted to get our hands on one of the latest Apple Watch Series 5 models was the host of new features, including some new and luxurious materials, many of which approximate the luxury watch world we live in – full ceramic? Full titanium? Don’t mind if we do. After spending some time with it on the wrist (including running a marathon with it on), I found that there were some things to report (other than…

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20.12.2019

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s Favourite Watch Photos from 2019

Just like new parents have a large number of bad photos of their children on their phones, watch collectors have a large number of bad photos of watches on their phones. The number of photos is large because we love watches like new parents love their children, and the reason they are bad is because it is actually quite hard to take a good photo of a watch. The myriad of polished surfaces catch every reflection you don’t want, and the lighting is either too bright or too dark, leaving you with about a 5% success rate of Instagram-publishable pictures.…

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Nick Kenyon 17.12.2019

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 5 favourite articles of 2019

As 2019 draws to a close and I get the opportunity to reflect on the year that was (as well as prepare for endless upcoming jokes on my 2020 vision), it’s impossible not to acknowledge that it has been a massive year for Time+Tide. The team has worked hard on a number of different projects, including Edition Two of NOW Magazine and the Time+Tide Club, all while delivering a very passionate family of watch lovers the news of the watch world every day. Naturally, there’s a feeling of huge thanks to the readers who give such positive (and sometimes passionately…

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the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic white dial 16.12.2019

VIDEO: Why the white dial Clifton Baumatic is classic cool

Sometimes, it pays to be conservative. It isn’t advice that should be regularly advocated; however, when it comes to what you wear on your wrist, sometimes it is a must to have something that is at the same time classic and crisp. In the case of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic white dial, that is exactly what you get, with a watch that tells you everything you need to know with its three hands and date window, and is quietly confident in how well it avoids seeking attention. Its starched white dial is almost vividly clear with minimal text…

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16.12.2019

3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique

It was only three short years ago when the first-ever Australian Seiko Boutique opened in Sydney, but the Japanese powerhouse has kept very busy, announcing the exciting news of the opening of the first-ever Australian Grand Seiko Boutique. This is a strong statement from the brand as they continue to drive the distinction of Grand Seiko being the premium offering compared to Seiko, which is reinforced by Melbourne luxury retailer Monards recently starting to carry Grand Seiko. While it is exciting news for fans of Grand Seiko to know there is a dedicated space for their favourite brand, it is…

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15.12.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How watches became financial assets

The topic of watches and their worth has been the talk of 2019. With never-ending threads of comments on social media, expressing frustration at the current prices of some pieces, retailers attempting to negotiate the challenge of managing wait-lists, and the growth of The Flipper in the world of watch buyers, it seems that 2019 was the year that watches became financial assets. While most of this commentary is essentially regret-filled grumbles about passing on a Patrizzi dial Rolex Daytona for four figures half a decade ago, there are some examples of well-considered and articulately structured thought on the topic.…

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Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt 15.12.2019

VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt

One of the most appealing elements of a Louis Vuitton watch is just how unabashedly bold they are in their design, as well as their wrist presence. The new Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt is an excellent example, with its amply portioned 46mm stainless steel case, vivid dial graphics and branded rubber strap. The dial is styled with the iconic Damier canvas pattern that offers a chess board of black and navy, which is then overlaid with striking slashes of red and white to form the brand’s V. There aren’t many companies producing watches in the world with such visual…

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TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 14.12.2019

VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco?

It’s been a big year for the TAG Heuer Monaco as it celebrated 50 years of production from when it was first released in 1969. The brand has released a number of limited editions this year in celebration; however, they arguably saved the most important release till last with the new TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02. The reason it is so significant lies beneath the dial, with the newly added Caliber 02 offering the first ever Monaco with an in-house movement. The TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 uses the same case dimensions as other references from the Monaco family at…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique 12.12.2019

EVENT: Here’s why the first ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique is opening tomorrow

For the first time ever, Jaeger-LeCoultre is opening a stand-alone boutique in Australia, which aims to offer greater access for their Australian enthusiasts than ever before. The brand is also quietly confident that the Australian market has reached a level of maturity that a complex and nuanced brand such as Jaeger-LeCoultre can capitalise on the growing wave of interest in luxury watches. In comparison to nearby markets in Asia, Australia has often previously fallen behind in sales; however, more recently, there has been a resurgence that has not gone unnoticed in Switzerland. With the brand opening their new Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney…

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10.12.2019

VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters

It’s been a big year for Chopard, thanks in part to the release of the Alpine Eagle, the first ever steel watch from the brand, and one of the most discussed watches of the year. As this new sports watch got the world talking about Chopard, we thought it was the perfect time to take a look at the other work that Chopard has done in watchmaking, and why they might be more serious watchmakers than you had realised. We sat down in their boutique in Sydney, a warm and welcoming space that feels more like a lounge than a…

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09.12.2019

When is faux-patina okay? Early thoughts on the new Omega Seamaster 007 Edition

Omega recently released the hotly anticipated Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, in association with Bond’s newest upcoming adventure, No Time To Die. It isn’t the first watch Omega has produced in partnership with the legacy of Ian Fleming, not even the first one in 2019, but with its under the radar brushed titanium case, it’s certainly one of the best-looking watches the franchise has ever produced. But while the new Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition was met with a crowd of cheers, there were inevitably a few grumbles about the watch (yes, generally in the Instagram comments), mostly focused on…

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frosted gold audemars piguet 08.12.2019

Frosted gold is very, very underrated

Editor’s note: There are lots of ways that watchmakers like to decorate their micromechanical marvels, such as engraving, polishing, brushing or even Côtes de Genève inside the case. While all of these techniques are wonderfully effective when done well, one of the most visually impressive (and generally underrated) techniques to finish a watch is hammering to achieve a frosted look. Used predominantly in jewellery, Audemars Piguet have deployed the artisanal method on the cases of some of their Royal Oak references, plating up a visual feast that looks like it has just left the freezer. Frosted gold catches the light…

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Vertex MP45 chronograph 05.12.2019

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph

Vertex is a brand with a wonderful history. Founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, the brand produced watches for Allied troops in the Second World War, following the specifications of the British Ministry of Defence, alongside 11 other brands (a group of manufacturers now known by collectors as the Dirty Dozen). The brand continued to produce watches in the post-war years, until Vertex was forced to close its doors in February 1972, due to the quartz era which wreaked havoc on the watch industry. The brand remained the subject of history books until 43 years later, in 2015, when Don…

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Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition 03.12.2019

INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition

The latest young star to join the ranks of Rado is the Australian tennis player Ash Barty, who despite being only 23 has already reached the position of women’s world No. 1. What is most exciting for us, and her fans around the world, is that she has collaborated with Rado to release a watch this year, bringing us the Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition, a white-hot watch that matches perfectly with the uniform of Wimbledon, which was her first junior Grand Slam win. While we obviously love Ash Barty because she’s an Aussie, we also love that she…

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Pequignet Rue Royale 03.12.2019

What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale

Getting engaged is an incredibly special moment in anyone’s life, as it spells the beginning of something that will endure to stand the test of time. What better way to celebrate than with a new watch, to match your fiancée’s new ring. This is the story of David and his Pequignet Rue Royale. When did you first see/hear about it? Nearly 10 years ago I read about a brand called Pequignet in one of France’s national papers. I could instantly tell their Rue Royale was a serious machine, with its classic good looks and multiple complications powered by an in-house…

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Rolex Cellini collection 01.12.2019

Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection

Editor’s note:Benvenuto Cellini was an Italian goldsmith and sculptor born in the last year of the 15th century, who would go on to become one of the most important precious metal workers of his time, finding employment with the royal families of Europe and the Vatican. It is this talented artisan who was the inspiration for the Rolex Cellini collection we know today, with clear links between the Mediterranean metalworker and the timeless designs seen throughout the family of watches. While the “W” word has persistently dominated almost all mention of Rolex in recent times, it is worthwhile to take the…

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Sotheby's Australia auction 01.12.2019

7 exceptional watches at the next Sotheby’s Australia auction

Last time I covered a Sotheby’s Australia auction, it was my first time attending a watch auction, and while there were a number of highlights, the sale was heavily weighted towards jewellery. In December, however, Hamish Sharma, the Head of Jewels at Sotheby’s Australia, and his hardworking team have produced a sale that not only has more watches but includes a number of very rare pieces that may have never hit the public market in Australia before. A standout among the highlights is the sale of a yellow gold Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI from 1969 ref. 145.022-69, which is an…

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Dubai Watch Week 28.11.2019

Why did Dubai Watch Week invite a quantum physicist to speak?

Science is very boring. For most people at least, and Michael Biercuk, who works as a quantum physicist, is far from most people. In fact, the phrase “Only boring people get bored” goes a long way to explaining why (if you follow the syllogism) Michael is deeply interested in a highly technical area that causes the eyes of most to glaze over, because he is also deeply interesting. I met with him at Dubai Watch Week, where he was a speaker at the event, and was fortunate enough to sit down with him and find out about his work as…

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Seiko Save the Ocean 28.11.2019

Saving the Ocean with Seiko Prospex

I recently had the privilege of attending an event with Seiko that focused on their Save the Ocean collection, and the work that can be done with the funds raised. While the event itself was an interesting blend of experience and information, I’ll explain exactly what the Seiko Save the Ocean collection is first. If you’ve ever been in a boutique that carries Seiko, while you were browsing the cabinets packed with their latest releases, you might have noticed a range of dive watches in the Prospex family with gradient blue dials that have an almost metallic quality. If you…

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Dubai Watch Week 2019 27.11.2019

WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019

In a city as affluent as Dubai, it isn’t a surprise to see some pretty wild watches come out to play at the city’s own Dubai Watch Week. While there are some of the usual suspects to be seen, such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, Dubai also showed its sophisticated side with some less common contemporary pieces and even rarer vintage watches. So while I wasn’t able to capture anything close to the full spectrum of interesting timepieces donning the wrists of those wandering the exhibiting booths, this is a small smattering that shows just how varied and articulate the…

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Doxa SUB 300 Professional 25.11.2019

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional

While wandering the booths of Dubai Watch Week, any enthusiastic eye can spot Rolex, Patek Philippe and the rest of the usual suspects on the wrists of other attendees, but it was a surprise to see a flash of orange pass by one afternoon. Sure enough, after stopping and speaking with Julian briefly, I confirmed it was indeed a Doxa SUB 300, and that not only was it one of four in his collection but he was also a diver who happily used it while exploring the murky depths. When did you first see/hear about it? I first came across…

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Dubai Watch Week 25.11.2019

What is Dubai Watch Week, and should you go?

Dubai Watch Week is in its fourth year, and is hitting a scale that should be making the other watch fairs around the world take notice. In the context of Baselworld being in some of the worst trouble it has experienced in its 100+ year history and SIHH (now called Watches & Wonders in 2020) losing the commitment of some of its largest brands, and both of the fairs changing their dates in an attempt to make them more convenient to attend (though this was cited as the reason for both Seiko and Grand Seiko pulling out of the 2020…

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hublot ferrari GT 24.11.2019

VIDEO: Hublot’s Prancing Pony

At Baselworld 2019, Hublot released a new chronograph in partnership with Ferrari that looked almost un-Hublot. We had become so used to recognising the hard angles and faceted cases of the brand founded by Carlo Crocco that the flowing curves of the newest Classic Fusion were staggeringly svelte in comparison, and suddenly appealing to an entire new part of the watch-loving community with the Hublot Ferrari GT. Here, we take a look at two examples from the new collection, examining in more detail the partnership between Hublot and Ferrari, and how this relationship has made its effect felt on the collection.…

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Bremont Ronnie Wood 24.11.2019

INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection”

The limited edition watch is a tactic used by watch brands that is receiving increasing numbers of eye-rolls as dozens are churned out each year. But where many brands simply change a dial colour and limit production to 200 pieces, Bremont has been making limited editions with a difference. Cutting through the noise of endless small production runs that are small because a marketing department suggested it, Bremont limited editions are limited for good reasons, such as the Bremont H-4 Hercules having an original piece of the H-4 “Spruce Goose” inlaid in the rotor, or the Bremont Supersonic containing a…

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Casio MTG-B1000RB 22.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Albert’s rainbow G-Shock

We’ve said it before, but if you ask a watch geek their thoughts on the humble G-Shock, chances are they’ll give it the tick of approval. Because when it comes to the G-Shock, not only are they incredibly robust watches that are basically bulletproof, but they also exist beyond the horizon of haute horology and have passed into the lands of a more popular culture, where a normal person who has never heard of a tourbillon or a GMT-hand will wear a G-Shock and be proud that it is both cool and comfy. In addition to their broader social recognition,…

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rolex kermit 21.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Gilbert’s Rolex Kermit

A relationship with a watch can be a complex one, fraught with the tensions between longing and expectation, and the quotidian reality that it is just an object, full of as much meaning as you are able to maintain within it. If you buy a watch brand new, you can bask in the pleasure of the boutique experience, but are inevitably faced with the anguish of the drawing of first blood as you notice a single scratch on an otherwise pristine surface. If you buy vintage, you inherit the imperfect character of the watch as you recognise that you are…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue 21.11.2019

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue dial

The story in a second: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 blue dial is a familiar face, which has been sleekly refined. If you know TAG Heuer, you’ll know the Carrera chronograph, a wristwatch that has been trackside at motorsport events for decades, offering those behind the wheel a functional timing tool. While some of the design detail has been adjusted over the years to suit the evolving tastes of the gentleman driver, the DNA of the watch has remained the same since its birth in the 1960s. Last year, we were presented with an interpretation of the Carrera Calibre…

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IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph 20.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Chris’ IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph

The only thing thrown around more often than the word iconic by watch media is watch media cleverly saying how often the word iconic is being thrown around. But despite committing both sins in one paragraph, Sunday confession would be a comfortable one if you were talking about IWC pilot’s watches as iconic. With designs unchanged for decades, it is the archetype of the pilot’s watch, with large luminous hour markers and hands that contrast against a dark dial, and essentially offer everything the modern world is looking for in an everyday watch. Chris was kind enough to speak with…

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Les Collectionneurs 17.11.2019

8 incredible vintage watches from Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs

I have always found it strange that the majority of watch brands, who rely so heavily on their long history to market their watches, also make it very difficult for collectors to access any information on vintage pieces from that same brand. Admittedly, there are several brands that are able to provide interested owners with archival extracts for their vintage watches, but it is a minority of manufacturers who support enthusiasm for any watches that were not released last Baselworld. One of the brands in this more broad-minded minority is Vacheron Constantin, whose Les Collectionneurs watches have recently arrived at…

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captain cook 16.11.2019

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct

First released in 1962, the Rado Captain Cook offers firepower on the wrist, as well as more than half a century of rich history. The initial production numbers may have been small during the swinging ’60s, but the Captain Cook left its mark on dive watch enthusiasts around the world, and in 2017 Rado treated its fans with a re-release of the famous watch. In this example with a black dial, we are offered a 42mm steel case with a glossy black bezel that frames the dial nicely. The blend of brushed and polished surfaces on the case add contrast,…

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watch auction expert 13.11.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: 14 lessons from Christies’ watch auction expert

To work at one of the largest international auction houses in the world, you need to know your stuff, which makes you very good at evaluating the world’s rarest watches and also passing that knowledge onto collectors and enthusiasts. One such watch auction expert is Dr Andrew Hildreth, who is responsible for presenting and writing Christie’s online course, “History of Watches: 1700 to Now”, a comprehensive overview of just about everything you might need to know about the last 300 years of horological history. The man seriously knows what he’s talking about, with his favorite vintage watch being a unique…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 12.11.2019

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

This year, the brand known for their focus on avant-garde techniques has updated one of their most iconic sporting chronographs, to produce the best-looking TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 in recent years. With an aesthetic of clean refinement, the less-is-more approach has come up trumps in a watch that prioritises robust functionality over notions of new-age minimalism. While the template of black dials with red highlights has been a successful one for the Calibre 16 over the last few years, this version has been updated with less busy dial markings and text. Additionally, the bold rhodium-plated indexes are less visually…

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Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar 10.11.2019

GPHG “Innovation” Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

It’s been a very busy week of watches in Geneva, with Only Watch 2019 setting new records, and the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awarding prizes to some of the best watches of the year (which included some upsets). Amidst the clamour and drama of the GPHG, where the pitting of brands head to head can increase the blood pressure of some ardent watch enthusiasts, the focus can sometimes miss the truly impressive feats of technical engineering that are on display. One of these feats is the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, a watch that not only…

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Breguet Marine 5517 08.11.2019

VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517

More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed as an official chronometer maker of the French Navy, and the tradition lives on today in the Breguet Marine 5517. The 5517 is a robust sports watch, machined in a lightweight titanium that almost perfectly matches the deep-grey dial tone, and offers a host of details that any discerning eye should appreciate. You could talk about the radially brushed dial that explodes from the Breguet logo rather than the typical centre, the flowing wave-like crown guards, or the classic Breguet hands that have been contemporarily reimagined to bring both traditional form…

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custom military Bremont 06.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Nic and his custom military Bremont ALT1-WT

Nothing raises the heart rate of a watch enthusiast faster than the story of a tool watch being used in the environment it was originally designed for, which was why I almost needed to call an ambulance when Nic told me the story of his Bremont ALT1-WT made for his RAAF squadron. Nic’s job is flying the fuel tankers of the sky, Australia’s KC-30s, which are able to refuel other aircraft while mid-flight. In his squadron’s collaboration with Bremont, they customised a number of elements of the original watch, including striping the GMT hand the same colours as their refuelling…

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Breguet Classique 5177 06.11.2019

VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177

Of all of the high-quality, well-finished and technically impressive Breguet watches, it is probably the Breguet Classique 5177 that you think of when you consider modern watches from the brand, and there’s a very good reason for that. Its spartan conservatism forces you to look for any notes of flair or extravagance, and you’re rewarded all the more for it. Amidst the inky depths of the expansive Grand Feu enamel dial, you are treated to the classically proportioned silver Arabic numerals, finished with an expressive serif that speaks to its discreet élan. As we discuss in the video, while Breguet…

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Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT 05.11.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT

We have recommended taking a look at the master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin deconstructing various watches in the past, and that’s because how interesting it is to get a proper look into some of the most popular watches out there. What makes this deconstruction by Peter interesting is that it is with the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT, a watch from a brand that has carved a name for itself thanks to the unparalleled levels of finishing to its cases and dials. But it does beg the question: is the interior of their watch movements — usually hidden from even the most prying…

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Affordable watch 05.11.2019

Affordable watch winners, just in time for summer

Editor’s note: As summer is swiftly approaching (in the Southern Hemisphere), a couple of friends who are into watches and I have been increasingly keen on picking up a summer watch. The thing about a summer watch is that you don’t want to break the bank when buying one, just in case you do only wear it during the summer. Which led me to thinking about the best watches that live for the summer months, but are also relatively affordable. Have a read, and let us know your favourite affordable watch for summer in the socials comments. Not everybody can…

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stone dial Omega Seamaster 05.11.2019

Mineral wealth with the stone dial Omega Seamaster

Exotic stone dials have always been popular with watch collectors, not only for their stunning beauty but also their typical rarity and the unique patterning from stone to stone. This same dial technique has been used in the two examples of stone dial Omega Seamaster 300s, a classic dive watch that is typically considered to be an under-the-radar daily wear watch – until you make the case in precious metal and the dial out of a semi-precious stone. Both the Omega Seamaster 300 with a lapis lazuli dial and a malachite dial express a kind of opulent excess that is…

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas 04.11.2019

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Editor’s note: A couple of years ago, Andrew and the team were lucky enough to travel to Lord Howe Island to explore the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection and, in the process, enjoy the unbelievable scenery of volcanic spires and fish-filled shallows. While the setting was one of the most remarkable on earth, the focus was on one of the most remarkable brands on earth with a collection of watches that boast the Geneva Seal in a very sporty package. Enjoy the video! We gave a glimpse of our 48 hours in paradise with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection a month…

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breguet marine collection 04.11.2019

VIDEO: The Breguet Marine Collection

Earlier this year, Time+Tide celebrated the arrival of the 2019 Breguet collection in Australia. For those who attended, it was a night nobody would forget in a hurry, in part due to the impeccable setting, but mainly thanks to the sensational watches that were on display. Of these sensational watches, the real hero of the evening was the Breguet Marine Collection, which has a number of new additions to the family this year. In this collection, the thoughtful use of materials is immediately obvious. The titanium cases and bracelets of the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 and of the time-only Marine 5517…

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Blancpain dive watch 03.11.2019

Battle-ready beginnings of the Blancpain dive watch

Editor’s note: Blancpain have been looking into their rich trove of dive watch archives to great success recently, reviving a number of classics that we have covered here, and here, as well as producing a stunning unique piece for Only Watch 2019 that James took a closer look at. But for those who might be slightly newer to the brand, exactly what makes a Blancpain dive watch so good? Well, a little while ago, Cameron Wong did some digging into exactly that question, and showed how Blancpain helped everyone from military spies to Hollywood actors with their dive watch needs.…

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Phillips Game Changers 03.11.2019

Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers

Later this year, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, are hosting the Game Changers auction, which will be offering some of the most important watches to ever meet the public market, including watches owned by golfer Jack Nicklaus, and actors Marlon Brando and Robert Downey Jr, as well as incredibly rare vintage examples of Patek Philippe, Rolex and LeCoultre. While the full catalogue for the Phillips Game Changers auction has not yet been made public, let’s take a closer look at some of the highlights that are likely to get paddles in the air. The Jack Nicklaus’ Rolex Day-Date…

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TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition 03.11.2019

Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches

This year we were lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the TAG Heuer Monaco. It was in the last year of the 1960s that the brand (just Heuer at the time) released their iconic watch that was one of the first ever automatic chronographs, and was cemented as a legend when it was seen on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the cinema classic Le Mans. To celebrate this very special watch, in 2019 they have released a series of five TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches (of 169 pieces per watch), with each part of the series representing…

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Bremont H-4 Hercules 02.11.2019

IN-DEPTH: The Bremont H-4 Hercules

The story in a second: The Bremont H-4 Hercules offers a tool watch, which could pair with a dinner jacket, and doesn’t lose any Bremont DNA. In any piece of design, there is a source of inspiration that is at least, in part, responsible for the final product that you are looking at. In the case of the Bremont H-4 Hercules, the source of inspiration requires a look back over 70 years into the history books. The year was 1942, and the Second World War was at a peak in the conflict, with fierce battles being fought across land, air…

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Bremont H-4 Hercules 31.10.2019

VIDEO: The mythical Bremont H-4 Hercules

The Twelve Labours of Hercules were impressive, sure, but not quite as impressive as the aircraft that provided inspiration for the new Bremont H-4 Hercules. Killing lions and hydras requires strength and focus, but building a plane in 1947 that makes a modern-day Airbus A380 look small, requires the unbridled ambition and enthusiasm of a Texan billionaire – Howard Hughes. The H-4 Hercules (nicknamed the Spruce Goose thanks to its wooden construction) inspired the most recent limited edition from Bremont that pays respect to the history of the aircraft. Limited to 75 pieces in Rose gold, we were fortunate to…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm 29.10.2019

VIDEO: Graduating with the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm

As the 1960s drew to a close, the Swiss watch industry found itself entering one of the most significant periods of turmoil it would ever experience. Its response to the accurate and affordable watches coming out of Asia was not to compete in a race to the bottom — instead, the Swiss took the high road, and doubled down on the fact that watches would remain status objects even in the face of cheaper, practical quartz versions. The largest manufacturers in the world began producing luxury sports watches for the first time, and in the process they eschewed precious metals,…

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Omega Trésor 24.10.2019

VIDEO: A closer look at the Omega Trésor

Earlier this week, Felix took a closer look at a watch that has to be a frontrunner for nicest dress watch of the year, the blue dial Omega Trésor. While it’s certainly a good-looking watch, there are two other members of the Trésor family that might even beat it to the punch. The Omega Trésor has also been released in a yellow gold case, and a steel case with a diamond bezel, both with the same svelte case shape. Each piece brings its own character to the table, but these two options offer a little bit of something extra, with the…

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Longines Heritage Classic "Sector Dial" 21.10.2019

6 of the best sector dial watches

As brands continue to successfully look to the past as they design watches for the present, a number of stylistic elements from as far back as the 1930s can be seen in modern watches. One of these anachronisms is the sector dial, an attractive layout of the dial that is typically defined by closed concentric circles that segment the dial. In this layout, there is a sense of order and control that comes from the portioned spaces of the dial, which remind a little of the structured designs of Art Deco, blended with the minimalism of the Bauhaus movement. As…

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Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection 19.10.2019

VIDEO: Mid-Century Magic with the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection

There was a lot going on in the middle of the 1960s. The space race was in full swing, the Australian dollar was introduced, and the launch of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection. This collection was launched alongside a number of other projects that Girard-Perregaux were working on, including being aggressively competitive in the Neuchâtel Observatory chronometry trials, and producing the first watch movement to beat at 10 beats per second or 36,000 times an hour. Today, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection lives on as cleanly sophisticated dress watches that have their designs rooted in the middle of last century, with movement…

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double signed dials 18.10.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials

In their upcoming auction, Phillips is focusing their attention on the finest examples of highly coveted double-signed dials. A double-signed dial is where a brand has allowed the name of the retailer that will sell the watch to appear on the dial, alongside the brand’s name. Retailers that have had the opportunity to showcase their name on a watch dial include some of the most famous throughout history, including Tiffany & Co, Harrods, Wempe, Gübelin and Beyer. As a part of their authentication process, Phillips will attempt to contact each of the respective retailers (if they are still trading) to…

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Longines Heritage Classic "Sector Dial" 14.10.2019

INTRODUCING: Longines Heritage Classic with “Sector Dial”

Amidst the morass of vintage reissues that almost all brands seem to have tried their hand at recently, Longines has been successfully combing their archives for the best examples that translate to current tastes, and have done so with good success in recent years. Even in the context of their well-executed reissues of military, chronograph and diving watches of their past, their latest dip into the history books has to be one of their best, as well as one of the nicest looking watches of 2019. I would like to introduce you to the Longines Heritage Classic with a “Sector…

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Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50thAnniversary SRQ029J 13.10.2019

Celebrating half a century with the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J

Fifty years ago, Seiko released one of the first ever automatic chronograph movements in a watershed moment in watchmaking. To mark the occasion, Seiko has released the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J, a watch that smartly dances the line between heritage and modern. We got a chance to take a closer look at the new anniversary piece, with all the details in the video below. If you love sporty chronographs that have a historically significant place in the history of watchmaking then this could be the piece for you. It’s well-sized at 41mm in diameter, features a movement with…

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Watches & Wonders 2021 is cancelled 09.10.2019

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance

Cartier is a brand that doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but instead gradually evolves their designs over decades, refining and purifying their core look with each year that goes by. For their latest collection, released at SIHH 2019, the focus was the Cartier Santos-Dumont, a dress watch that is both classically sized and slim, offering one of the most refined pieces of Cartier design we have seen in recent years. The new Cartier Santos-Dumont is available in two sizes (38mm x 27.5mm for the small model, and 43.5mm x 31.4mm for the large model) and both have managed to stay rakishly…

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition 07.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms looks like a lot of other watches out there, and there’s a reason for that. The Fifty Fathoms was first. It was one of the first watches ever designed for diving and, as a result, has become almost the Universal Man of dive watches, where all watches that follow are derivative. Within the Fifty Fathoms family, there are many variations, but one of the most eye-catching of them all has inspired the reissue of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition. Originally, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was designed for French navy divers known as Nageurs de…

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Chopard Alpine Eagle 01.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a watch that has roots in the 1980s when their St. Moritz model was released. It was during a period when the stainless steel luxury sports watch boom was in full swing. Case in point, between 1980 and 1995, the St. Moritz model alone sold 50,000 pieces. Now, the St. Moritz has been reimagined with a contemporary flavour in terms of its design, as well as a number of technical developments that make the Chopard Alpine Eagle a genuine luxury wristwatch and reflect Chopard’s endeavour to “treat steel as if it were gold”. Also, the…

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Franck Muller in Melbourne 30.09.2019

EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne

The Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours landed in Melbourne last week, and not only was I fortunate to take a closer look at it, but the kind people at Franck Muller invited me to celebrate it with them at a dining event with some of their important local clients. It was a great opportunity to view the new collection, as well as share a meal with a group of like-minded watch enthusiasts. There were some special people seated around the dining table, including Franck Muller’s global COO, Nicholas Rudaz, and Franck Muller’s General Manager of Australia, Mr Heng, both of…

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Best 5 watches for under $5k 27.09.2019

Best 5 watches for under $5K at the Sotheby’s Important Watches auction

At the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches auction, you can browse the catalogue and find all manner of incredibly rare and important watches and clocks from all the best watchmakers in the world. There is everything you would expect, and more, including a possibly unique red dial Rolex Daytona, a factory gem-set yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master, a Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona, and a Patek Philippe chronometer tested tourbillon pocket watch, all of which serve to make the Patek Philippe 5711 on offer look rather dull. But unless you’re so wealthy that the Panama Papers were of personal concern to you, almost…

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Vanguard Crazy Hours 26.09.2019

INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive

In what is a meeting of two of the most significant collections from the Franck Muller manufacture, the Vanguard Crazy Hours is an exciting offering, made even more exciting with the news of an exclusive collection for Asia. The Vanguard Crazy Hours is the first time the brand has housed the famous Crazy Hours movement inside a Vanguard case shape, offering a feel that is more sporty and relaxed, to a caliber that inspires a more leisurely approach to time telling. It achieves this with a dial layout that is less than conventional, where the hour marker numerals are out of…

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Haven Watch Co. Chilton 21.09.2019

HANDS-ON: The Haven Watch Co. Chilton

In an unending stream of vintage-inspired wristwatches that are just a little bit off (you know what I mean), you cling to a watch that gets it right like a life raft. The Haven Watch Co. Chilton is exactly that life-saving device, with it tastefully sized at 37mm, and offering a visually compelling dial. Taking inspiration from the colourful yachting chronographs of the ’70s, the Chilton has the details considered. The chronograph is available in two different dial colours, which are a creamy white or a deep midnight blue, both of which feature contrasting sub-dials in a compax layout. We…

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Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects division 17.09.2019

Looking at the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division

If you decided to buy a Bremont watch, you could go to your nearest Bremont boutique (or their online store) and buy almost any model in their catalogue that your heart desired. What you can’t buy, however, are any of the pieces from the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division. These pieces are created specifically for elite military units around the world, produced with bespoke features, but all based on models in the core Bremont range. While these watches are typically created in collaboration with units from the US or British air forces and navies, Bremont has also produced…

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IWC Ingenieur AMG edition 08.09.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Zak M and his IWC Ingenieur AMG edition

While collaborations between watch brands and car manufacturers are not a new phenomenon, it’s a much rarer phenomenon to meet a person who owns both the watch and its corresponding car. Once Zak had purchased his Mercedes AMG, he knew he needed to own the IWC Ingenieur AMG edition IW3725,  a watch that is cool beyond its automotive inspiration. When did you first see/hear about it? I heard about it a few years ago, but I didn’t like it because of the curves in the case design. It eventually grew on me, and I was planning on saving up for…

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Bell & Ross BR05 05.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Bell & Ross BR05

For any brand creating a new collection, the challenge lies in the tension between aesthetic innovation and consistent design language. With the new Bell & Ross BR05, the brand has successfully maintained their core visual identity with a circular dial and squared-off case, exposed screws at the corners of the case, and bold Arabic numerals. The innovation begins most prominently with the integrated bracelet directly into the case, which is a departure from the more traditional Bell & Ross look. The softened curves of the polished bezel contrast sharply with the angles of the brushed steel lugs, creating visual depth…

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warehouse watch grey market 02.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch grey market isn’t black and white

If you’ve ever looked to buy a watch on the internet, you will have invariably come across grey market watch websites offering a surprisingly good deal on the watch you are interested in. This leads to several questions about the broader mechanics of watch retail, and the watch grey market: Why would I buy from an Authorised Dealer if this is so much cheaper? How do these sites get the watches they are selling? Why do watch brands allow themselves to be undercut on price? All of these are fair questions; the answers of which are often challenging to find.…

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Omega Speedmaster Mark II ‘Rio 2016’ 02.09.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Travis Mahoney’s Omega Speedmaster Mark II ‘Rio 2016′

Representing your country at the Olympic Games is the dream of just about every kid who grows up doing a sport, especially Australian kids and swimming. The likes of Ian Thorpe, Grant Hackett and Michael Klim did wonders to boost the popularity of the sport in the Land Down Under, producing a fresh crop of talented young swimmers, including Travis Mahoney. Travis represented Australia at the Rio Olympics where he competed in the 400m Individual Medley, and commemorated his achievement with the acquisition of an Omega Speedmaster Mark II ‘Rio 2016’. When did you first see/hear about it? I actually…

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Bob Hawke's Estate Auction 31.08.2019

We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke’s estate auction, this is what happened

Bob Hawke’s estate auction offered a chance to reflect on a man known equally well for his capacity to skol a pint of beer in record time (he broke a beer drinking Guinness World Record in 1954) and being a past Prime Minister of Australia. The auction took place in a venue that could only be described as aptly representative of our country’s cross-sectional majority – an RSL in inner Sydney. It was an appropriate venue to celebrate the collected objects of one of Australia’s most fondly remembered leaders, as it grounded you in a sense of not taking it…

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Panerai 177 25.08.2019

What Sealed The Deal – John J and his Panerai 177

The greatest love stories basically go a little like this: lovers meet and instantly fall for each other, other forces separate them and they may never be together, then the lovers are reunited and all is well in the universe. This is also the basic story of John and his Panerai 177, which should indicate the depths of his passion for this particular watch. When did you first see/hear about it? A couple of years ago, I had a Panerai 176, which is a very similar model to this one, but without the hacking seconds. I loved it, but I…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date 25.08.2019

INTRODUCING: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date limited edition

The Polaris collection was launched by Jaeger-LeCoultre last year to pay tribute to the dive watches produced by the brand in the ’60s and ’70s. Instantly recognisable with the super-compressor style case and internal bezel, the Polaris has been given a new look in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date. What makes this new edition different can be seen immediately in the dial, with a blend of finishes and shades of blue that place it at home in the water. The dial has three separate sections: the centre featuring a sun-rayed finish that looks almost liquid in its shimmer, which heavily contrasts…

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F.P. Journe 21.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know

F.P. Journe is an interesting case in the expanding landscape of independent watchmaking. For a watchmaker that produces around 900 pieces per year, the brand is seen in all the right places, regularly winning prizes at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and producing a watch for the Only Watch charity auction for its last three editions. But what can be a little confusing is just how the brand structures its collections – for that, here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe. Watches from F.P. Journe can basically be broken down into three collections: the Souveraine Collection, the Octa Collection and…

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breitlign transocean 21.08.2019

“The watch that started it all for me” – Jean-Paul’s Breitling Transocean

There’s always one that started it all. The first taste that starts the passion. Like the first dunk that lit the flame in Jordan’s heart. The first moment Phelps touched the end of a pool and knew he loved to win. Or the first piece in your collection that opened your eyes to the variety and complexity involved in the pursuit of good watches. For Jean-Paul, this was his first. A stunning Breitling Transocean ref. 1461 semi-perpetual calendar, that he picked up on his honeymoon in New York City. After four visits to the Wempe boutique, he decided to pull…

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brad pitt 2020 oscar watch 21.08.2019

What was Brad Pitt’s watch in the latest Tarantino thriller?

Last night I went to see the new Quentin Tarantino film, Once Upon A Time In Hollywood, and while plot tension and A-grade acting kept me on the edge of my seat, I was kept guessing by what Brad Pitt’s character was wearing on his wrist. So what was Brad Pitt’s watch? As the movie progressed, I could tell it was a gold watch, worn on a bund strap, and it was a chronograph of some kind in a bullhead configuration (with the pushers at the top of the watch). But the brand escaped me. Was it a Seiko? A…

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two-tone watch 20.08.2019

Two-tone watch anxiety? Here’s your solution

Editor’s note: The two-tone watch seems to be having a resurgence of late, especially in the design studio of Tudor. While we first saw this in a subdued black dial Tudor S&G, the following year they gave us a champagne dial, and this year a two-tone chronograph on a bund strap no less. But two-tone watches aren’t always easy to pull off, with the spectre of the ’80s looming large in the peripheries of people’s minds. To help you reconcile your desire to buy a two-tone watch, and your discomfort with Wall Street stereotypes, we have created a handy guide…

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Zaratsu polishing 19.08.2019

What is Zaratsu polishing? Its origins are less Japanese than you think

Seiko and its Grand sibling are well known for their technical skill in case finishing. This style of highly reflective polishing was first introduced into the Seiko family by watch designer Taro Tanaka, who came into the Japanese company to produce a holistic design language that was called “The Grammar of Design”. One of the main tenants of this design language was for all of the flat surfaces of the watch case and hands to be polished to a mirror finish using a method called Zaratsu polishing. By maximising the interaction of the light with the flat surfaces of the…

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The problem with the GPHG 19.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The problem with the GPHG

First uncovered in the tomb of a 17th century Genevan clockmaker, the words which are now passed into lore: “Every time someone says the GPHG is the Oscars of the watch world, a bunny dies.” So as to avoid the death of any more happy hoppers, I’ll describe the GPHG as the biggest prize in watches each year. In saying that, there’s a problem with the GPHG. While the GPHG is the biggest prize to be won, the competition is, as Felix eloquently put, “notably free of crowns and calatravas”, bringing the elephant at the GPHG clearly into view. Some brands…

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18.08.2019

11 reasons MB&F are important for all watch lovers

Editor’s note: The darling of the independent watch space, MB&F show no signs of slowing their release of weird and wonderful watches. Timepieces that often elicit a confused reception at first glance, MB&F clocks and watches become more delightful the longer you look at them, as you realise the playfulness at the heart of their designs. Let’s take another look at why the brand matters, even if you aren’t likely to become a customer. Recently we were invited to Sydney as guests of The Hour Glass for the hotly anticipated launch of MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) Horological Machine 6,…

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Breitling Triathlon Squad 17.08.2019

Why does the Breitling Triathlon Squad exist?

Watch companies are pretty happy to jump on board as sponsors of all number of sporting teams, including Formula 1, boxing or tennis, for the obvious reasons that they have massive viewerships and highly engaged fans. One sport that definitely isn’t structured as a spectator-friendly sport is triathlon, begging the question as to why the Breitling Triathlon Squad exists. In the couple of years since current CEO Georges Kern took the helm of the company, Breitling has been gathering “squads” of notable people in trios of ambassadors. You might have heard of #squadonamission if you’ve ever visited the Breitling website,…

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TAG Heuer in Melbourne Event 16.08.2019

EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne

TAG Heuer is a brand that has always sat fondly in the hearts of Australians, with shared values of an active lifestyle spent outdoors. This week we were lucky enough to celebrate the launch of TAG Heuer’s latest novelties, including the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph and the exciting Autavia Isograph. Both releases are significant because of the technology housed in them, which the crowd was fortunate enough to get a very close look at under the guidance of the TAG Heuer Master Watchmaker Shalen Gokoolparsadh.  Hosted at TAG Heuer’s flagship boutique in Melbourne, a strong crowd gathered out…

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Doxa Sub 200 T.GRAPH Stainless Steel Limited Edition 16.08.2019

INTRODUCING: DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel Limited Edition

At Baselworld 2019, Doxa delivered a campaign of shock and awe with the release of a solid gold SUB 200 T.Graph that left Felix in the firm belief that the world was a better place for its existence. Today they have announced another SUB 200 T.Graph limited edition, this time in stainless steel, making it a much more affordable option than the circa AUD $100K the gold piece was asking. What makes the Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph stainless steel limited edition special is the historic Valjoux 7734 chronograph movement that Doxa have used. Stored by Doxa for decades, the brand…

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expensive watches 15.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Do expensive watches make you risky with money?

The upper echelons of the investment banking world are inhabited by people who are paid large sums of money to take risks. Some working within the hallowed halls of serious finance prefer lower-risk investments, and others enjoy the thrill of having a larger appetite for risky business. If you want to know how safe your money will be, you need to know how prone your investment manager is to seeking the thrill of a dangerous deal, so what if you could do that by looking at their wrist? In a post earlier this year by WatchRant, a collection of reviews…

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citizen chronomaster 15.08.2019

Accurate AF – the Citizen Chronomaster limited editions

This year, Citizen got the watch world talking about quartz watches in a positive light with the release of the Caliber 0100, the wristwatch version of a piece-unique pocket watch they released in 2018. This release seemed to take some by surprise, but Citizen, just like their countrymen at Seiko, have been making very accurate quartz watches for some time. A flagship model in their collection is the Citizen Chronomaster, a watch that has just been released in new limited edition dial colours.   The Citizen Chronomaster is now available with a regular production blue dial, as well as both…

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Must De Cartier Tank 15.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so

Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the ’70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, becoming the Chairman of Cartier in 2000. Besides his developed business acumen, Franco Cologni also has a developed handle on the English language, expressing opinions eloquently in the journal of the FHH, where he is also President of the FHH Cultural Council. In one recent…

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Bau Swatch 14.08.2019

In the Haus with the new Bau Swatch Collection

To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the Bauhaus design movement, Swatch have released the Bau Swatch Collection of 25 new watches inspired by the pre-WWII German school of design. The Bauhaus design philosophy has had significant impact on a number of watch designs over the years, including from Patek Philippe, Nomos and Stowa. Now Swatch have joined the fray, with an appropriately designed collection that celebrates the different elements of the design school’s ideas. If you’re interested in browsing the entire 25-watch collection, you’re able to visit them at the Swatch site, but before you do, these are our highlights.…

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auctionlytics 13.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Does the collectible watch change over time?

If you’ve been reading what I’ve been reading over the last couple of weeks, you’ll have noticed I’m particularly interested in how the primary and secondary watch markets interact with each other, and what that looks like in specific contexts like an auction room. All that leads to is a question: does the collectible watch change over time? One Instagram account I’ve been following with great interest for a little while is @AuctionLytics, a page that tracks the watch auction market and shares their data-driven insights with followers. They also share longer-form insights on their blog, and while they’ve been…

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Longines connection to horse racing 13.08.2019

Why is Longines’ connection to horse racing so strong?

Editor’s note: In the run-up to the horse racing season in Australia, we thought we’d have a look at a brand with a long history in the world of horse racing. Andrew had the opportunity to sit down with the then-VP of Longines Juan-Carlos Capelli to get to the bottom of Longines’ connection to horse racing, which was established more than one hundred years ago. Earlier this year, we interviewed the Vice President of Longines in the hours before the Queen Elizabeth Stakes horse race at Royal Randwick in Sydney. In the polite small-talk before the interview, we asked Mr…

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Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 13.08.2019

Un-GPHG 2019 – the watches we wish would win

Every year the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) provides a point of interest for the watch community. Long after the hype of SIHH and Baselworld has died down, it’s a chance to catch our breath, look back at the year that was, and assess how many good watches were made in the preceding 12 months. The entrants for 2019 were recently released, with 150 different watches across 14 categories, all self-nominating as the best in their class. As per tradition, a good portion of the watch media (including us) offers predictions on those that will be successful that year,…

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Serica watches 12.08.2019

INTRODUCING: The very versatile Serica W.W.W.

Watch collectors will listen, wide-eyed and slack-jawed, to stories about grandfathers in the ’60s wearing a Daytona while changing the oil in an engine, only giving the watch a quick wipe with a rag before dinner was served. This is so far from the present-day reality that a watch that was once a functional nice-to-have is now being traded by people who went to finance school. What happened to the everyday watch? This was the question posed by a quartet of men who couldn’t find a good-looking watch that didn’t cause the heart rate to rise when nearing a doorknob.…

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Patek Philippe Ref 2526 12.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this the perfect Patek Philippe?

Patek Philippe are not known for hi-tech carbon composite case materials, skeleton dials, or really any enthusiastic contemporary flair. What they are known for is being the priest of the Temple of Classicism, considered and purposeful in any direction of development, refusing to bend to ephemeral market tastes. The clearest way this can be seen is how little the design DNA (yes, I know you think that term is overused, GaryG) of their watches has changed over the last century. This lack of dramatic change forces those interested into the trenches of granularity to ascertain the importance of any particular…

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Melbourne Rolex Service Center 12.08.2019

Finding satisfaction at the Melbourne Rolex Service Centre

Editor’s note: A couple of years ago, life got a lot easier for the Melbourne Rolex collector. Rolex Australia blessed the coffee-obsessed city with a shiny new service centre, a move that made the already appealing prospect of buying a Rolex even more appealing, with the knowledge that a repair would be as pain-free as possible. Let’s take a look back at when Felix got to visit the centre shortly after it opened. One of the biggest issues in this industry is what happens to a watch long after it leaves the boutique on the wrist of its happy new…

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Australian Watch Forum 12.08.2019

The Australian Watch Forum’s first collaboration watch

Editor’s note: The Australian Watch Forum has gone from strength to strength over the last 18 months, tripling its membership to 9000 members. Based on Facebook, their presence has been felt well outside of social media, with regular meet-ups and get-togethers in major cities across Australia. Here’s a throwback to Cam’s nod to their first venture with a big watch brand, when they partnered with Zenith last year to release