We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts…
Zach BlassWill Patek Philippe ever introduce a Nautilus ref. 5811/1A? Will Rolex ever debut a Submariner in RLX titanium? These are questions with uncertain answers. But one thing that is certain is #watchfam having strong opinions. Nothing gets by watch enthusiasts and, with each new release, a flurry of passionate comments on Instagram is inevitable. So, we recently polled all of you to share your controversial watch opinions. We then shared a selection on our Instagram, but asked you to share even more in the comments. Across the 100+ comments to date, here are some standouts.
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In-house is not all it is cracked up to be…
You know how every kid wants a puppy, but their parents do not because they understand both the time and financial investment a pet requires? That is a great analogy, in my opinion, for in-house versus mass workhorse. While there is a potential for greater glamour and prestige with an in-house movement, ultimately movements from ETA and Sellita are incredibly robust and reliable and are much less expensive to service. So, in certain instances, such as a watch within the US$1,000 – US$3,000 price segment, a ETA/Sellita is potentially preferable as the maintenance over time will not require as much of a spend down the line. A perfect example of a watch better suited to continue the usage of an ETA calibre, rather than an in-house calibre, is the DOXA SUB 300. The watch is able to be priced so attractively due to the ETA calibre inside. It performs very well as these ETA calibres are COSC-chronometer certified, and the externals receive that much more attention to detail in their manufacture as a result as well. Also, with a closed caseback there is no visual benefit to forcing an in-house calibre as well. On the other side of the coin, once you hit a certain price-point, and if the calibre is on display, a watch is definitely more appealing with an in-house calibre. Therefore, I would say I agree with this on a case by case basis. Because if a Patek Philippe Calatrava had an ETA, that would be an absolute disgrace at its respective price point.
Rolex pricing is too cheap? Blasphemy!
Bro… what are you doing? Do not give Rolex any ideas. In all seriousness, I think Rolex retail pricing is right where it should be. Just because the scarcity and “unobtanium” nature of being allocated one places a greater value on particular Rolex watches beyond retail pricing does not mean they should be priced higher. Rolex retail prices are very fair in my opinion. But what is unfair is that most people cannot get these pieces at those prices.
Do sports watches truly exist?
This comment does make me wonder if the term “sports watch” is a bit outdated. I think, if anything, it has simply just become a colloquial term that conveys the origin of a watch design as well as its ability to be worn daily. Then again, the Reverso is technically a sports watch as its flippable mid-carriage was born to protect the crystal during polo – yet most do not think of it as a sports watch anymore. Another point I could make here is that while “sports” has become a catch-all term for various steel/titanium watches, we more often than not refer to watches like a Submariner as a dive watch rather than a sports watch, a Big Pilot as a pilot’s watch, a Carrera as a racing watch, and so on so forth. Sports, in certain respects, found greater usage amongst collectors due to references like the Royal Oak and Nautilus that were introduced as more casual and sporty references within a catalogue of dressier high-comp timepieces. Perhaps a sports watch these days is a watch with technical specifications that cater to more active usage, but in a more romantic sense rather than a practical sense.
Will the only real tool watch please stand up? Or is it a gadget…
While I get the sentiment, this is not totally fair. Of course an Apple Watch is well-cemented as a tool watch, as its “complications” allow for various functionalities that extend beyond the complication capabilities of a mechanical watch. It is a tool to track fitness data, to help with meditation, to enable communication, to listen to music, etc. But there are mechanical watches, designed with particular functions and complications, that can still be used in tool-fashion as well. To address the other elephant in the room, an Apple Watch is a watch the same way a G-Shock is a watch. It is strapped on to the wrist, and it tells the time. It is a watch.
Homage hating
When the concept of a micro brand was novel, the persistent homage route was certainly appreciated. But with micros using vintage cues more than ever, it can get a bit stale. I think where you land on this also depends on where you are financially and within your collecting journey. The idea everyone can afford a Submariner or vintage Patek is, of course, very silly. So, for many, it is a homage micro brand watch or nothing at all. And, I would much prefer people enjoy these micro brand homage designs than become yet another person wearing an Apple Watch. Nothing wrong with an Apple Watch, but I want to see more and more people wearing analog timepieces for sure.