The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is exceedingly German and exceedingly dapperJamie Weiss
- Glashütte Original’s most underrated watch is now chronometer-certified… But not by COSC
- Its Panorama Date brings a signature Glashütte twist to a marine chronometer aesthetic
- Glashütte pivots from their typical striping to a 3/4 bridgeplate with a frosted finish
Glashütte Original’s really cooking at the moment, with the German brand having released some serious stunners this year like the Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” duo or the PanoInverse Limited Edition. Indeed, GO’s Pano and Vintage collections generally hog the spotlight – but there are still plenty of horological pleasures to be found in GO’s multitudinous range. Case in point, the new Senator Chronometer: a classically styled piece of Glashütte engineering that offers a dressy and distinctly Germanic take on a classic chronometer.
Let’s talk about its looks first. The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is modelled after Glashütte-produced marine chronometers from the 18th and 19th centuries, invaluable tools for nautical navigation (despite being produced in a town a long way from the nearest ocean). Fittingly, it’s rather classically styled, with Roman numerals, leaf hands and a small seconds display – although the galvanised grey dial and blue appliques give it an ever-so-slightly modern feel. The Panorama Date window also features blue date discs, which is a nice touch. A power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and an applied Glashütte Original logo at 9 o’clock provide symmetry.
What’s perhaps more interesting about the Senator Chronometer is what’s under the hood. The in-house Calibre 58-08, as the Senator Chronometer’s name implies, is chronometer-certified… But not by any Swiss organisation. Instead, GO sends these movements to the independent Thuringian Office of Weights and Measures to be tested over a strictly controlled 15-day test run, during which movements are tested in five different positions and three different temperatures. For what it’s worth, that’s the same number of days, positions and temperatures as COSC – probably because both bodies’ testing criteria are based on ISO 3159.
This is a bit of a statement of intent by GO. Rather than relying on a Swiss testing body to certify their movements, they’re keeping it all in Germany. They’re showing that anything the Swiss can do, the Germans can do as well. Who needs Switzerland?
The other cool thing about the Calibre 58-08 is its second-stop mechanism: when the crown is pulled out, the movement is hacked and the seconds hand resets to zero. Then, when setting the time, the movement features a minute detent, which means that the minute hand jumps ahead from minute to minute with an audible, haptic click – which helps the wearer set time precisely to the second.
The Calibre 58-08 is also tastefully finished, with a hand-engraved balance cock and plenty of perlage. The three-quarter plate, like the dial, is galvanised grey – it’s not quite as fancy as A. Lange & Söhne’s Glashütte ribbing and German silver, but there’s still thermally-blued screws and snailing to pique one’s interest.
All in all, the Senator Chronometer is a traditional, stylish, technically competent and utterly charming dress watch. It’s exactly the sort of refresh the Senator line needed.
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer pricing and availability
The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is available now. Price: US$32,300
|Case Dimensions||42mm (D) x 11.4mm (T) x 48.4mm (L2L)|
|Case Material||White gold|
|Dial||Silver plated by friction, galvanised grey, Roman numeral appliques in solid gold|
|Bracelet/Strap||Dark blue Louisiana alligator leather, white gold fold-over clasp|
|Movement||Manual winding Calibre 58-08|
|Power Reserve||44 hours|
|Functions||Hour, minutes, small seconds, Panorama Date, running time display, day/night indicator, second reset, minute detent|