INTRODUCING: The new Hermès H08 in rose gold, titanium and ceramic offers a refreshing take on sporty chic

Zach Blass

• The new Hermes H08 case uses three materials: rose gold, titanium, and ceramic
• We dig the H08 collection for its sporty chic look that’s distinct to the brand 
• This new model is approximately twice the price of the previous titanium models

Within the sports watch category a lot of designs can look similar. For example, most dive watches follow a familiar feel and format and we often find ourselves trying to determine which brand’s watch looks like the other. Who did it first. Well, with the Hermes H08 collection this is not really a point of discussion. In fact, it is the opposite. Akin to brands like Cartier, the advantage of a manufacture like Hermes is not only their budding know-how now in watchmaking, but their mastery of design and iconography. As a result, the H08 is a watch that does not really have an aesthetic doppelgänger – the Cartier Santos Dumont really the only geometrical comparison. And, while many watches today feel like refined and reissued designs of the past, the H08 feels like a mechanical sports watch brought back in time from the future to the present. Today we have the next evolution of the collection, with a first-ever precious metal entry: the Hermes H08 rose gold and titanium

With this entry into precious territory, the watch could have run the risk of becoming too flashy – losing the modern-casual sporty chic feel of previous H08 models. But Hermes wisely decided to maintain the winning formula, sticking with minimal mirror polishing to the screw-down crown secured case that’s water-resistant to 100m. Aside from the material surrounding the crystal, the perimeter edge of the bezel, and the hairline bevels of the case flanks, the three materials that comprise the case are primarily brushed. The majority of the case is fashioned in rose gold, with the exhibition caseback executed in DLC-treated titanium and the bezel and crown comprised of black ceramic. When you look at the brushing, the black ceramic bezel has a sunray-brush, the top of the rose gold case and perimeter of the black ceramic crown are vertically brushed, and the sides of the rose gold case horizontally brushed. The break in direction of these rich lines adds dimension and intrigue to the aesthetic, and the muted nature of a nearly full-brushed case makes gives the design a Silicon Valley vibe.

When you look at the black-gold treated dial, its largely grained texture and outer perimeter sloping almost looks like a cast-iron pan. There is a ruggedness to it, yet it feels sleek and luxe. Rose-gold plated and SuperLuminova-filled hour Arabics, in a distinct to Hermes typeface, radially surround the dial. A step inward, the graining breaks for a radially brushed hour indices chapter ring that is briefly interrupted by a dial-matching white on black date window diagonally aligned between 4′ and 5′. The innermost central medallion returns the grained texture back into the fold, with a printed hashed minutes track that kisses the inner perimeter of the hours chapter ring. Considering the minutes hand extends past the inner central medallion, those anal about hand-alignment each minute might have concerns their OCD will kick into overdrive. But, the semi-skeletonized nature of the central minutes hands means you can still see the minute hashes of the track as the hand passes over.

The externals are the main attraction of the H08 0ffering, but the exhibited movement inside the watch is certainly no slouch. Leveraging their 25% stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the automatic Hermes manufacture calibre H1837 offers 50 hours of power reserve – not groundbreaking, nor disappointing – and features an Hermes H-motif decoration to the top of the bridges and rotor instead of traditional Geneva striping.

I know “fashion” is not a particularly favoured term within the watch enthusiast community, with many dismissing watches from other fashion houses like Michael Kors as “fashion watches”. Watches that have a price dictated by the power of their brand name, rather than the quality of their build. But the H08 is the textbook example of how fashionable-sensibilities do not have to be an Achilles heel. It can actually be a huge asset when done right. The Hermes H08 rose gold and titanium appears to be yet another very solid entry into the well-received collection. I can imagine fashionistas and watch geeks alike dressing up and down this watch. The question is at approximately twice the price of previous titanium 39mm models, will watch buyers be willing to take the luxurious leap to rose gold at US$17,000? For those who prioritise versatility, style and distinct design, I suspect the answer will be yes.

Hermes H08 rose gold and titanium 059581WW00 pricing and availability:

Availability of the Hermes H08 rose gold and titanium has yet to be revealed, but it has not been disclosed as a limited edition. Price: US$15,600

Brand	Hermes
Model	H08 ref. 059581WW00
Case Diameter	39mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) x 46mm (L2L)
Case Material	Rose gold, DLC-treated tianium, and black ceramic
Water Resistance	100m (screw-down crown)
Dial	Black-gold treated dial with grained and brushed finishes
Crystal	Sapphire crystal and sapphire exhibition caseback
Strap	Black rubber strap with black anthracite webbing, DLC-treated titanium clasp
Movement	Hermes automatic manufacture calibre H1837 (developed by Vaucher)
Power Reserve	50 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Availability	TBA
Price	US$15,600