The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue
Zach BlassI love my Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Spring”. It gets a lot of wear time on my wrist because I enjoy its cherry blossom inspired pink hue, making it a very distinct timepiece. But it is not just the hue that is compelling. Its “rock pattern” texture (as the brand refers to it) is a fan-favourite element as well, also found on the SBGA415 “Winter”. For some, however, the pink of the SBGA413 may be too much and the grey of the SBGA415 too familiar. But given their ongoing popularity, it is abundantly clear that the market always loves a great blue dial. So, what if I told you that Grand Seiko just combined their lovely “rock pattern” texture with a distinguished shade of indigo blue to create a new reference for our enjoyment? Well, they have done just that with the Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive.
The Grand Seiko SBGA469 utilises the same unnumbered case form that is found on beloved references like the SBGA211 “Snowflake”. The shape is a bit more conventional, with a rounded profile that presents an elegant image of “light” and “shadow” through its hairline-brushed and Zaratsu distortion-free, mirror-polished surfaces. Unlike the Snowflake, the SBGA469 is made of stainless steel with a 100 metre water-resistant and screw-down crown secured case 41mm in diameter, 12.5mm thick, and 49mm across the wrist lug-to-lug. In terms of its mixed finishes, you have more Zaratsu polishes than hairline brushes. From the front you will notice a distortion-free polished bezel and hairline brushed lug hoods. But the brushed lug hoods have strong Zaratsu polished tapered bevels, the finishes separated by a sharp and defining line clearly visible to the naked eye. As for the case flanks, they are entirely Zaratsu mirror-polished as well – again a more familiar format of brushed front elements with polished sides.
Grand Seiko is well versed in blue, with a variety of compelling shades of the ubiquitous colour already under their belt. But this is yet another new blue tone introduced by the brand, and, in my personal opinion, it is one of their most compelling yet. It is also another example of the brand paying homage to Japanese culture and identity, its colour rooted in tradition. Grand Seiko explains: “The indigo dye known as Katsu-iro has a long and storied tradition in Japan, one that goes back to the 15th century Sengoku period. The distinct blue of this indigo dye signified victory, and it was proudly used to colour the armor worn by samurai.” Adding further intrigue into the mix is the fact that Grand Seiko paired this dynamic hue with the brand’s acclaimed Iwao (rock pattern) dial – the very pattern found on references like the SBGA413 and SBGA415.
With each new hue, recurring patterns take on new life. Akin to how I felt the SBGE271 “Kanro” looked like a spotlight being shot into a cloudy pitch black night sky, the Grand Seiko SBGA469 has a similar cloud-like feel that is, in this instance, set within the backdrop of the blue evening sky in the wake of the sun setting. Following their grammar of design, and its pillar of legibility, Grand Seiko has opted for the top surfaces of the diamond-cut hands and indices to be brushed. Brushed surfaces equate to “light” and because they remain brighter under direct light it makes sense to utilise brushed top surfaces against the darker indigo hue of the dial. The shouldering facets of the indices and hours and the mirror-polished surfaces of the minutes hands provide elegant contrast and ensure each “light” surface is accompanied by an adjacent “shadowed” surface. Dial purists have bemoaned the presence of the complications on the dial, the power reserve in particular. I have never really had a problem with the date or power reserve displays on Grand Seiko Elegance collection dials, but, for those who do, the concern is well mitigated with their black tones. The white on black date disc at 3′, as well as the black fan and radially textured power reserve indicator blend really well into the dial – in my opinion adding to the aesthetic versus hindering it.
Affixed to the case is the standard and familiar five-piece link bracelet, 20mm in width, with three brushed links and two narrow polished intermediary links – the outer links nicely bevelled on their shoulders. Look closely at the render above. If you haven’t fully appreciated this element yet, take in the symphony of ‘light’ and ‘shadow’ at play. Working from left to right, from tapered bevel to tapered bevel, you will catch six polished surfaces and five brushed surfaces. People forget that Grand Seiko actually takes the time to mirror polish the element of the case where the bracelet rests flush against it. Due to the surface going black, in some instances people mistake it as a gap between the case and bracelet when in actuality it is evidence of an exquisitely polished case.
Even the inner sides of the lugs where the bracelet meets them is mirror polished, and while a small detail it equally contributes to the “light” and “shadow” harmony that consciously or subconsciously attracts us to the brand. As a stainless-steel bracelet, the links are secured together by screws – a more luxurious and DIY sizing approach than the pin and collar system. Some fret at the lack of micro-adjustment, but yet another Grand Seiko owner’s tip I have to offer from my own experience: the half links are actually more like two-thirds links. Experimenting with different combinations actually serves as micro-adjustment. I personally have two “half links” in series on my Snowflake and Shunbun (Spring) for this very reason, and thus they fit perfectly on my wrist.
Inside the watch you have the in-house Spring Drive caliber 9R65, an incredible movement that offers 72 hours of power reserve and an accuracy of plus or minus one second per day (usually closer to half a second a day, if even, in my own experience). While a sort of workhorse staple caliber in Grand Seiko’s arsenal today, it is still very well decorated. A bit of an Easter egg for you, if you align the stripes of the rotor with the Tokyo stripes of the bridges you are then able to see what resembles a mountain – the very mountain near the studio where the movement is assembled. The Grand Seiko boutique limited edition etching and Grand Seiko logo medallion etching are present, but are included subtly – so don’t expect any real viewing obstruction to the movement beneath.
So what does this release mean for fans and buyers worldwide? Well firstly, this boutique online exclusive serves as a beacon and reminder that there is a new Grand Seiko online boutique for clients to utilise if they prefer buying from a distance versus travelling to a store. Secondly, it is a big deal for those who are looking for a first watch at this price point or even just a stainless-steel/blue dial watch. It also introduces the stone texture in a more mainstream colour tone (that is, of course, not simply black or white). At its price point of $5,000 USD, in the name of our “Don’t Miss This” series, I feel like this is a new benchmark reference to consider before you jump in a queue for a Rolex Datejust or purchase (an also fantastic) Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra. If you want to stand out from the herd, the Japanese-inspired elements of its design and finishing really set itself apart from what you normally spot in the wild.
Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive Limited Edition pricing and availability:
The Grand Seiko SBGA469 is a Grand Seiko Boutique Online Limited Edition that will be available beginning December 15th, 2021. Price: $7495 AUD
Editor’s Note: The quantity of this “limited edition” is not disclosed on the online shop page, nor the press assets provided.