Heritage Hits: The Best Vintage Inspired Watches of 2014
Felix Scholz
The men’s style scene has for the last few years been swept by a giant wave of nostalgia for everything heritage and vintage. In this post-GFC world it’s easy to understand why we’d want to look back (through rose tinted glasses) at simpler, more carefree times. The watch industry hasn’t been immune to this syndrome, and collections at SIHH and Baselworld 2014 clearly demonstrated that a heritage approach is well and truly modern; everything old is new again.
But don’t just take our word for it; Sacha Davidoff (SD) and Roy Davidoff (RD), who comprise the Davidoff Brothers, vintage watch dealers based in Geneva since 1983, are keen observers of the trend. We spent some time with them recently to get their expert take on why everyone is jumping on the heritage bandwagon. We also asked for frank opinions on who’s doing it well and who needs to lift their game.
T+T: Guys – why is every brand and their do releasing a heritage watch, or collection these days?
SD: Today’s watchmaking stories do not seem to have the same ‘legendary’ properties that vintage watches have that were originally made for pilots, military, astronauts, racecar divers, athletes, etc. of the past. Manufacturers are also following fashion trends while attempting to bring ‘soul’ back to modern manufacturing.
RD: Because vintage is so popular these days and the availability of the originals keeps on shrinking leaving a large gap in supply to fill. It allows the new and inexperienced buyer to buy a piece of history without all the hassle of being a weathered collector. Today, mechanical watches are a luxury and have no real practical use left, therefore the story and marketing around the watch are essential.
T+T: So increased demand for the real deal along with a lack of the sort of legendary stories that created these iconic pieces are part of the reasons why the brands are looking pack to their golden age. Great, but if that’s the why covered off, how about the what? What does a well-done vintage inspired watch look like?
SD: A heritage timepiece should stay as true to the original as possible, but also incorporate as much modern technology available while trying to avoid any compromise in design. A good example is a one-model re-edition of an icon in its original configuration. Now, with that said, whether it should look like the aged original does today or how it did when it came out of the factory is debatable. Keeping true to the proportions and design is important not to desecrate many collectors ‘grail’ watches, however a little artificial patina is simply giving buyers the look they want.
T+T: And how about a not so well done example?
SD: A poorly executed heritage timepiece is one that is diluted by either straying to far from the original design or issuing too many new variants. A purist approach is preferable.
RD: The quality and feel of the re-edition is not on the level of the original and therefore poorly pays tribute to the icon.
T+T: Who are riding the heritage wave well at the moment?
SD: Tudor, Omega, Tissot and Longines. Although not at Basel, I still admire what Jaeger-LeCoultre has done over the past few years with their ‘Tribute’ models and, more recently, the Geophsyic 1958. I have watched people having a hard time telling the Jaeger re-editions from the originals at first sight.
RD: Tudor continues to do well overall with its heritage identity and its step-by-step approach. However, my personal favorite heritage watch from Basel 2014 is the Longines Conquest, which is a bit too small for my big wrist, but as true to the original as possible.
It’s no news that Tudor have been impressing with their heritage collection – now a mainstay for the brand. This years interpretation of the simple and utilitarian ranger is the latest in the Tudor heritage hit machine.
Omega has a great range of vintage models to draw from, and they’re not afraid to use them! But until now they hadn’t touched one of the truly iconic divers – the Seamaster 300. We’re kind of glad until they waited till now. The aged lume and ceramic bezel make for a killer mix of old and new.
We recently showed you the very impressive Longines heritage 1935 ‘Majetek’ – which is a really great watch, but the watch vintage lovers have been raving and applauding is the true to period size Conquest Heritage 1954-2014, perfect in every detail, all 35mm of it.
While not a 2014 release the Tissot Navigator is a key watch in the accessibly priced Swatch group brands underrated heritage collection.
Jaeger-LeCoultre have made a habit in recent years of releasing stone cold honest tributes to some of their most special and interesting pieces from the archives. Honestly, when it comes to faithful reproductions of gorgeous watches JLC is the team to beat.
T+T: And who needs to step it up to stay in the game?
SD: Zenith and Tag Heuer
RD: I disagree with Sacha, I think Zenith & Tag are doing a good job. For me it is Breitling that is missing the potential it has with its vintage followers.
Zenith have been on a roll in recent years, drawing strongly on their El Primero and pilot’s heritage, but this years monster 60mm Type 20 Grand Feu left many scratching their heads
We’ve got a lot of love for TAG Heuer, not least because they have perhaps the strongest automotive legacy of any brand out there. The nod to the past that is the Carrera Calibre CH80 is just that, a nod. It would be great to see these guys make some more direct links to the great watches of the Heuer era.
Breitling is in an enviable position of having a really amazing back catalogue of legit pilot’s watches. And while their loyalty to the Navitimer is commendable and the recent Chronomat Airborne is a step in the right direction, it’s time Breitling got some proper vintage skin in the game.
T+T: And finally, what was the greatest heritage inspired surprise from this year?
SD: Rolex Sea Dweller 4000, it’s back and better than ever. Not sure if it counts, but I was so happy to see it was back after its hiatus!
RD: Longines Conquest, the brand has such a rich history and looking forward to more surprises in the future.
The Seadweller 4000 was released in a surprisingly unadulterated version at Baselworld 2014.