Fergus’ top 5 from Geneva Watch Days

Fergus Nash

Geneva Watch Days definitely isn’t as grand an affair as Watches & Wonders, however what it doesn’t have in quantity it certainly made up for in quality. Here are my personal top 5 picks from Geneva Watch Days 2022.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo is the perfect platform for high-end collaborations, and the latest Sejima Edition proves just how far they’re willing to go. Partnering with renowned Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima, the sapphire crystal is covered with mirror-like dots that form a sort of hypnotic mesh effect. The hands below are still readable, but there’s a certain sense of mystery that will keep you staring at it for much longer than you need. It’s also one of the few Octo Finissimo references with an entirely-polished case, creating huge contrasts between the facets which reflect the light and those which are plunged into shadow.

Oris Aquis Seafoam Green

To be perfectly honest I’ve never been a fan of the Oris Aquis in any of its generations. I can recognise its merit and appreciate the style, but when it came to Swiss divers my taste just lay elsewhere. The first reference to change my mind, revealed at Geneva Watch Days 2022, is the new Oris Aquis with a ‘Seafoam Green’ mother-of-pearl dial. The 36.5mm diameter is perfect for me as a fan of smaller watches, and the light shade of green imbibes the watch with an easy-going tropical feeling unlike some of the more demure tones of forest and olive greens we’ve come to expect lately.

Bulgari Serpenti Spiga Ceramic

The Octo Finissimo is always going to be Bulgari’s reminder that they’re a watchmaking superpower, but the Serpenti range will always be there to remind us of their jewellery prowess. The new Serpenti Spiga may not be the most ornate model, with its time-only dial and sparse use of diamond setting, but the arm-wrapping bracelet made of glossy black ceramic and rose gold would be worthy of wearing even without the emblematic snake-head watch case. The head is 35mm across, which is fairly big for a Serpenti, making a bold statement on the wrist. It’s powered by a humble quartz movement, although the lack of a seconds hand keeps that quiet.

Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Rainbow

Rainbows and diamonds can easily be seen as pandering, especially when the word “lady” is in the name of the watch. However, even though the concept is somewhat patronising, the execution of the Lady Diver Rainbow does strike a chord with me. First released in 2019, Geneva Watch Days sees the glamourous rainbow update. The black and silver dials are fairly strict and organised, with neat printed lines leading to the hour markers and a circular date window at 6 o’clock, however the array of 40 precious stones set in the bezel brings in a camp flair that’s hard to resist. The 39mm diameter is definitely noticeable on the wrist, but not too big for comfort and not so small it has to compromise on the movement.

Doxa Army

I’m sure the Doxa Army will be on a lot of people’s shopping lists following 2022’s Geneva Watch Days, as it’s one of the most faithful vintage reissues to be released that’s still fresh and interesting. No matter how saturated the dive watch market becomes, Doxa’s niche will always have a unique appeal to those who want something different without compromising on technical specifications and quality. There’s no dial quite like the Army, and when paired with the wrist-friendly bulk of the SUB 300T case it harnesses all of the quirky military vibes you could possibly wish for.