Cartier unveils new refined Tank Française range for 2023
Borna BošnjakThe Cartier Tank shape has seen many changes throughout its over a century-long history. What began as the Tank Normale, shifted into the L.C., Must, Américaine, and finally, in 1996, the Tank Française. While more models followed in the 2000s, it’s the late 90s Française that’s the focus of today, as Cartier has fully refreshed it for 2023. The new models feature more refined, subtler cases, reworked crowns and brushed dials, while the signature Française bracelet continues to define the strong lines of this piece. The refresh features seven new models across three sizes and two metals, and we got to experience three of them hands-on for a couple of days.
Subtle finishes
One of the most notable changes with the new Française comes in the form of multiple brushed finishes on the dial, case and bracelet. Let’s begin with the most subtle of all – the dials. The Large automatic model employs a refined, vertical brushing that contrasts well against the inky black Roman numerals and the iconic blued sword hands. Silver in colour, the inner minute track is a stylised railroad design, interrupted by a tiny white date window, cutting into both the 3 o’clock index and minute track. As is customary with Cartier, their hidden signature is incorporated into the VII numeral, consistent between all three sizes.
The Medium and Small models also feature brushed finishing on the dials, but rather than vertically, it radiates from the centre for a radiant sunburst effect. While both have an opaline silver finish, the radiance of the yellow gold of the Medium model colours it with a faint champagne, once again nicely matching the blued hands. Both models are date-free, resulting in a much cleaner, symmetrical dial layout. Unlike the other two, the Small stainless-steel model replaces the black printed numerals with reflective silver ones, somewhat sacrificing legibility in certain lights, though making the hands pop even more.
Brutalist Tank
The Tank name is ubiquitous with a symmetrical rectangular shape, rounded, slim brancards and a flat profile. These features are all present in the Tank Française as well, though rendered in a more brutalist, masculine fashion. The brancards are more pronounced, and though they’ve been re-shaped when compared to previous models, their presence, especially when looked at side-on, distinguishes the Française from the rest of Cartier’s offering. Vertically brushed across their gently curved top surface, the flanks feature a mirror polish and a recessed heptagonal crown with a cabochon. On the two steel models, it’s a classic Cartier blue spinel, while the yellow gold model opts for a brilliant-cut diamond.
Dimension-wise, the largest, automatic model measures in at 30.6mm across, 36.3mm lug-to-lug and 10mm in height, with a wide, 22mm lug width. One step smaller is the Medium model, with 27.2mm across, 31.9mm lug-to-lug, a thickness of 7.6mm, and a 19mm lug width. Finally, the Small model is indeed quite dainty, with a 21.1mm x 25.5mm size, 6.8mm thickness and 15mm lug width. Despite the differences in size, I was able to wear all of these models quite comfortably, though wrists larger than mine (6.15in/15.5cm) may struggle with the smallest member of the Française family.
One of the most notable changes case-wise is the new bracelet. With sleeker integration into the case and a mixture of polished and brushed finishes, it almost wears like a cuff bracelet due to its non-tapering design and wide dimensions compared to the respective dimensions of the case. The links are small, though not particularly articulate, making for a really solid feel on-wrist. All of the pieces feature butterfly clasps, for a more seamless bracelet integration, though only the Large Française model is equipped with a double-pusher system. This makes operating the bracelet on the Medium and Small models much tougher, especially when on-wrist, as there are no indents to aid in its opening.
Quartz or auto
The final significant detail is the choice of movements. Just like the previous line-up, the Large size means an automatic movement, while all Small and Medium models feature quartz calibres. Cartier press material doesn’t note any movement specifications, though we can confirm that the movement being used is the calibre 1853. Without the MC denomination, it isn’t an in-house calibre, but rather produced by Sellita, based on their SW100. It’s a small and slim 25-jewel calibre with a low 38-hour power reserve – essentially the smaller counterpart to the widely used SW200. Compared to the previous Française which used a Cartier Calibre 120, an ETA 2000 derived from a 2892, this is a sidegrade, rather than an upgrade or downgrade. Though our review sample came in at a solid +5 seconds per day, with healthy amplitude and negligible beat error, it’s a somewhat disappointing choice, considering that Cartier makes good use of their in-house 1847 MC calibre. Compared to the Sellita, it’s superior in specification, decoration and anti-magnetic properties, featuring in the likes of the Santos and Tank Must XL.
The verdict
Though with only minor updates, the new Cartier Tank Française line-up is more refined, and a return to form from the 1996 original. The crowns are much less obtrusive and better integrated, and the same can be said for the bracelet, with the re-worked end links really making a difference to the overall suaveness of the design. When it comes to dials, the new brushed and sunburst options are in line with the subtler overall design, though I’ve got to admit that the 6 o’clock date window position on the previous large model was better suited to this design. My pick of the bunch would be the medium, quartz stainless-steel model, as I feel it suits my wrist the best size-wise, though I can’t deny I wasn’t attracted to the lustrous, rich brushing of the solid gold number. Overall, the Cartier Tank Française always seemed like an attractive midway point for those deciding between a rectangular tank and a more industrial, square Santos, and the 2023 Française offering continues this trend successfully.
Cartier Tank Francaise pricing and availability:
The new Cartier Tank Française is available from January 19th. Price: starting from A$6,000
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Tank Française |
| Reference Number | WSTA0065 (Small, steel, quartz) W4TA0020 (Small, steel and diamonds, quartz) WGTA0114 (Small, 18k yellow gold, quartz) WJTA0039 (Small, 18k yellow gold and diamonds, quartz) WSTA0074 (Medium, steel, quartz) W4TA0021 (Medium, steel and diamonds, quartz) WGTA0113 (Medium, 18k yellow gold, quartz) WJTA0040 (Medium, 18k yellow gold and diamonds, quartz) WSTA0067 (Large, steel, automatic) |
| Case Dimensions | 21.1mm (D) x 6.8mm (T) x 25.5mm (L2L), 15mm lug width (Small) 27.2mm (D) x 7.1mm (T) x 31.9mm (L2L), 19mm lug width (Medium) 30.6mm (D) x 10mm (T) x 36.7mm (L2L), 22mm lug width (Large) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel 18k yellow gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Vertical brushed silver Sunburst silver |
| Strap | H-link steel or 18k yellow gold bracelet |
| Movement | Quartz 1853 automatic calibre, 37-hour power reserve, Sellita SW100 base (WSTA0067 only) |
| Price | A$6,000 (WSTA0065) A$13,900 (W4TA0020) A$36,300 (WGTA0114) A$47,900 (WJTA0039) A$7,600 (WSTA0074) A$15,900 (W4TA0021) A$42,300 (WGTA0113) A$53,500 (WJTA0040) A$9,300 (WSTA0067) |