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Felix Scholz
Felix has been writing about watches for over nine years, having written for Hodinkee and Revolution before becoming the editor of Time+Tide. Aside from the ingenuity of mechanical watches as complex and beautiful machines, Felix is most interested in watches as objects of culture and style. Felix believes there’s just as much merit in an exquisitely hand-finished tourbillon as there is in a beaten-up dive watch, or diamond-set fashion piece. He’s interested in what draws people to watches, and how people express their style through their wrists.

Posts by Felix:

22.06.2017

HANDS-ON: JLC’s mean machine – the Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic, now in black and pink gold

This Jaeger-LeCoultre is a great example of just how true the old saying about assumptions is. You see, it’s easy to pigeonhole JLC as producing only fine, delicate and dressy watches – classic Reversos, or smart vintage-inspired pieces, for example. And while it’s true that this style of watchmaking is their bread and butter, that doesn’t mean they’re not supremely well-equipped to belt out a truly excellent contemporary piece when they put their mind to it. This latest version of the Master Compressor Chronograph ceramic illustrates the point perfectly. This stealthy-luxe sports watch was released at SIHH with (appropriately enough)…

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21.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The most impressive quartz watch in the world and 3 other surprising things I learned about Seiko in Japan

Editor’s Note: Until relatively recently Seiko’s watchmaking – in particular their Grand Seiko and Credor lines – was something of an insiders’ secret, with their quality of finish and precision of workmanship not as widely recognised (or marketed) as those of the Swiss marques. That’s all begun to change, and looks set to change even more now that Grand Seiko is a fully independent brand. Last year I took a trip to discover more about the secrets of Seiko. This is what I found… I’ve always liked Seiko. One of the first watches I ever bought was a Black Monster, followed…

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20.06.2017

HANDS-ON: A winning combination – the yellow gold, Cerachrom and Oysterflex Rolex Daytona (ref. 116518LN) 

When I first saw the new gold Daytonas at Basel, I didn’t quite know what to make of them. After the phenomenal success of last year’s new steel and Cerachrom Daytona, further extension of the line seemed inevitable, and precious metals the logical step. But I did not expect – and was somewhat confused by – the choice to pair these yellow, white and Everose gold Daytonas with an Oysterflex bracelet. Add to this the fact that I was feeling some pretty intense feelings about the new Sea-Dweller and Sky-Dweller, and it’s fair to say that I didn’t give these…

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Montblanc's limited edition Orbis Terrarum for UNICEF, on the wrist for video review 19.06.2017

VIDEO: Montblanc’s Orbis Terrarum UNICEF limited edition

When they’re done right, limited edition watches are great. They offer some exclusivity, membership to a special club, and that feeling of being part of something bigger than yourself. When they’re done badly, limited editions are merely a poorly thought-out logo whacked on a dial. Thankfully this UNICEF limited edition is very much in the former camp. Montblanc has taken one of their coolest models, the Orbis Terrarum, made some super-subtle design tweaks and wrapped it all into a very worthy cause. Who wouldn’t like it? Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum LATIN UNICEF Australian pricing and availability Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum…

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17.06.2017

LIST: You could buy one of these 5 watches … or put a deposit on a house

Australia’s property market is brutal right now, with some eye-watering prices and fierce competition. Even if you’re in a position to buy, getting some actual skin in the game is hard, thanks to the shark pool known as the Saturday morning auction schedule. So, if you’ve lucked out one time too many, you might be tempted to throw in the towel, eat your weight in avocado toast and spend the deposit on a nice watch instead. Here are five contenders (all currently available in Australia, just FYI). Patek Philippe 5270G If we had to peg this gorgeous blue-dialled perpetual calendar…

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16.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: It’s all in the crown – the steel Clé de Cartier

Editor’s Note: While everyone’s been going crazy over Cartier’s Drive recently, we’ve still got a lot of love in our hearts for the cushiony Clé – especially in steel. Read below to find out why… The story in a second Cartier’s key collection of 2015 just became a whole lot more accessible.   Much fuss has been made over Cartier’s manly new Drive collection, and rightly so. But the Parisian powerhouse also released another excellent, and highly anticipated, men’s watch this year – the Clé de Cartier in steel. It’s no secret that we fell pretty hard for the Clé when we…

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16.06.2017

EVENT: Epic watches and why the Australian market matters — the Sydney Hour Glass GTG with Michael Tay

The concept of GTGs, or G2Gs, or get togethers in plain english, is a staple of the Instagram handled, Facebook-inhabiting individuals known collectively as ‘the watch fam’. For all that the growth of watch collecting and connoisseurship has been driven by digital platforms, there’s nothing quite like meeting like-minded people in person, calling them by their Instagram name and fondling the watch on their wrist. Typically GTGs are semi-regular affairs, based around fora, Facebook groups or, more recently, organisations like RedBar (started by this guy). Well, the GTG that took place in The Hour Glass’ freshly opened Sydney boutique will…

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15.06.2017

LIST: Improve your daily carry with 4 objects from Montblanc’s latest UNICEF collection

Over the years we’ve noticed that a love of finely wrought watches often results in a halo effect on the ecosystem of small objects and accessories in your daily life. You start noticing that the other components of your daily carry that have served you well for years – wallets, keychains and the like – are starting to look a little tatty. And of course there are as many options for these everyday essentials as there are watches (ie. countless), and finding the right pen/cufflink/business card holder can be a daunting task. When in doubt, it’s hard to go wrong…

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13.06.2017

VIDEO: The dressy new face of the TAG Heuer Link 

TAG Heuer has pulled off a minor miracle with the Link. They’ve taken one of their most recognisable designs, one synonymous with the ‘90s, and made it relevant in 2017.  They’ve achieved this by focusing on the most important part of the watch – the bracelet. Link actually began life as a bracelet back in 1987, and the intertwining ’s’ shape links are instantly recognisable. TAG Heuer has made the smart move of toning down the sportiness. This Link is dressy, with a well-sized 41mm cushion-shaped case, and brings the model firmly into the realm of dressy sports. It’s a wonderful…

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12.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Always evolving – the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10

Editor’s Note: This year Hublot released several golden new Meca-10s, and we were surprised at just how different they looked to the original. Before we go into depth on those, we thought we’d take a second look at the OG version, a watch that is, in my humble opinion, one of the best evolutions of Hublot’s Big Bang in some years.  The story in a second New movement + new look = new ball game? Hublot describe their Meccano-inspired Big Bang Meca-10 as a ‘transitional object’. It’s an interesting choice of phrase. You could take it literally and assume that Hublot are referring…

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10.06.2017

LIST: 5 watches under $5000 that you can buy right now

There are few things more frustrating than seeing pictures of an incredible watch, reading the news and reviews of just how great it is, only to discover that it won’t be hitting actual stores for months. It’s a very specific feeling (in fact there’s probably a word for it in German, uhrenverbotenangst or some such), and one we can relate to. Well, today we’re hoping to ease that pain just a little with five watches you can buy right now. And what’s more, they’re all under $5k. You’re welcome. Tudor Black Bay S&G It’s gold, it’s steel, it’s David Beckham’s…

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10.06.2017

VIDEO: One for the ladies – the Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook in white

So far this week we’ve looked at the larger 45mm Captain Cook and the smaller vintage versions. To round out the trifecta, we’re taking this bright and beach-ready number for a spin. Now, this isn’t your typical ‘on the wrist’ review, as the mesh bracelet is intended for wrists smaller (and less hairy) than my one. But you can still see how the all-white colour scheme really makes this design pop, especially when helped out by the diamond hour markers and the field of reflections that is the Milanese-style bracelet. Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 37mm (white) Australian pricing The Rado HyperChrome…

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09.06.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 9th June, 2017

Would you believe I’m winding down alone, in a Sydney hotel room, looking out over an exceptionally dreary parking lot? It would be sad if not for the fact that in a few short hours I’m going to be hanging with some of Australia’s finest watch nerds and some of Switzerland’s finest watches at a catch-up at The Hourglass. So don’t feel too sorry for me. This is also why it’s a shorter wind down than usual – I’ve got to make myself look pretty. What happened Citizen released a tourbillon. Yep, you read that right. And what’s even crazier is…

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08.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The greatest chronograph of our times? The rise and rise of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Datograph Up/Down

Editor’s Note: In the hurly burly hustle of endless new releases it’s sometimes important to sit back in a Chesterfield or similar with an overfull glass of burgundy and let it all sink in. Rinse, repeat. What floats to the top of mind? What watch still hits you in the lungs like a chest mark when you see it? What never-seen-before technical advancement of this or that still tickles the brain and creates a tingling sensation in the wallet pocket region? Lastly, whose value is holding up on Chrono 24? Fire up the Bentley Jeeves, we’re heading back to Germany again…   Put…

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08.06.2017

VIDEO: The Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook, live on the wrist

We’ve already given you a pretty thorough look at Rado’s pint-sized and patriotic Captain Cook, but while still photography is great at showing the finer details – that sunbrush finish and crisp dial printing, for example – video gives you a much more holistic picture. If you want to know how that dial looks under the glass box sapphire (hint – it looks awesome), or whether that ceramic is too shiny, then video is the way to go. And if you’ve been tossing up the pros and cons of regular vs limited, this could help you seal the deal –…

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07.06.2017

HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Apollo XVII – a tribute to the last man on the moon

The relationship between Omega and space is special. Central to this relationship, of course, is the Speedmaster Professional, a phenomenally popular watch thanks in no small part to the cool-by-association links with NASA and the American space program. Naturally it’s something that Omega hasn’t been shy about capitalising on (even though former President Stephen Urquhart had his reservations), with countless space-themed ad campaigns and limited editions throughout the years. Limited edition Speedmasters are a funny thing: you can guarantee that every year or so Omega will celebrate a mission anniversary, or something similar, and this regularity sometimes makes it hard to…

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06.06.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook – one of the best reissues of 2017

The story in a second Who expected a drool-worthy heritage reissue from ceramic focused Rado at Baselworld? No one, that’s who. While Rado is particularly well-known for their use of high-tech ceramic and hard metals, they’ve got a long history in water resistant and dive watches, launching their sporty ‘Green Horse’ series of watches (with a particularly cute seahorses logo on the dial) in 1958. In 1962 they released a simple little dive watch called the ‘Captain Cook’. Fast forward 55 years and Rado has released another series of watches named for the famed explorer. There’s a large 45mm version…

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05.06.2017

VIDEO: Vintage inspiration in a modern package – the Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 45mm

Rado’s HyperChrome Captain Cook has made waves this year, mostly due to the nearly pitch perfect 37mm reissue. And while there’s a lot to like about that watch, I suspect that the comparatively petite case size will be a deal-breaker for some people. But that’s OK because Rado has covered their bases by releasing a contemporarily sized 45mm version. It’s not just the case size that’s impressive, but also the construction – with ceramic bezel, hardened titanium case construction and a solid 80 hours of power reserve. Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook 45mm Australian pricing Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook 45mm, $3175

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04.06.2017

RECOMMENDED READING: The shadow watchmakers of Switzerland

It’s fair to say that the watch industry isn’t renowned for a culture of transparency, with its sometimes confusing mix of companies, parent companies, and suppliers. Add to the equation a hefty dose of marketing invested in the concept ‘in-house’ and the waters become even murkier. The reality is that fully vertical watchmakers are very rare indeed, with most brands making use of third parties, be that in design or production. This (paywalled) Financial Times article investigates ‘secret watchmakers’, who operate at the higher end of horology – often established watchmakers in their own right, who moonlight for other brands on…

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03.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Winter warmer – the Longines Heritage 1945

Editor’s Note: Simple vintage looks, rich tones, a brushed dial and a cinnamon suede strap to die for, all for a very reasonable price. The Longines Heritage 1945 – it’s the perfect watch for a crisp winter’s day.  One of the highlights on our Baselworld calendar is seeing what heritage re-release Longines has cooked up, and whoo boy, have they pulled out all the stops in 2017 or what. You’re looking at the Heritage 1945, an absolutely on point interpretation of a mid-century dress watch. Based on a 1945 design called the Calatrava by collectors, this watch does everything right. Funnily…

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02.06.2017

HANDS-ON: Dark and deadly – the Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (ref. SBGC221)

To be honest, when I first saw Grand Seiko’s contemporary-looking new modular ceramic Spring Drives, I was on the fence. I didn’t expect it, and wasn’t sure what to think. Of course the quality and technical precision were very much in evidence, but the aesthetics were well outside the norm for the brand. But over time the slick looks grew on me – Grand Seiko’s trademark crisp lines look great in black ceramic, and the sporty style was well-suited to the Spring Drive Chrono. So in the lead up to Basel this year, I was looking forward to seeing where they’d…

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01.06.2017

OPINION: Fancy a date? In defence of the much-maligned date window

We’ve got a surprisingly complex relationship with date windows in the Time+Tide office. And not just because we’ve been known to forget to set them on occasion. No, every time we review a vintage reissue we can be assured that we’ll have a host of comments on various social media platforms that read something like this: “Love the design, but they RUINED it with that ugly date window.” I understand this reaction, and to be fair there are plenty of sloppily designed date windows out there. But ruining a watch? I’m not so sure. A few years ago we were interviewing…

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01.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 44 of the best watches from 2016 you can buy from $500 to $5000

Editor’s Note: Way back at the start of this year, Justin put together a series of ‘best of’ lists covering off some of 2016’s finest timepieces – watches that offered maximum return for minimal investment. Now, as we hurtle head-first into that golden period in Australia known as EOFY (end of financial year), we start thinking about tax returns, bonuses and bargains. Sure, you could use this (hopeful) windfall to do the prudent thing and pay the bills – or you could buy a watch. So we thought now was the perfect time to revisit these lists in the form of…

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30.05.2017

NEWS: Tudor announces David Beckham as new brand ambassador

At Baselworld Tudor unveiled a campaign and brand tagline – Born to Dare. Today we got a better understanding of what this means with the announcement of David Beckham as global brand ambassador and famous face of the Born to Dare campaign. At first the news of a luxury watch brand announcing a new endorsement might not seem particularly daring, but in this case it represents a significant new step for the brand, and a legitimately daring change of direction. This is the first time in many, many years that Tudor has had this level of celebrity ambassador, and certainly…

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29.05.2017

VIDEO: Why I love my watch – with Andre Agassi

Andre Agassi’s response to the question, “Are you into watches?” didn’t exactly go to script. “Not at all. I have no interest in them,” he said. It’s not the first time we’ve spoken at length to someone who doesn’t identify as a ‘watch person’ per se. Mark Bouris is one, Mark Richards another. But this really was a first. An interview subject, at the start of a 30-minute interview, declaring our whole subject area a dead zone. Ok then? There was a five second pause, and I let it be because he looked like he was going to continue talking.…

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27.05.2017

LIST: 5 travel-ready GMTs for under $5000

One of the most useful everyday complications is the GMT or dual time zone. If you travel a lot or do business internationally it’s certainly a lot easier to check your GMT than to fiddle with you phone trying to find the world clock app. Given the usefulness of this complication to the jet set, it’s also a genre dominated by pilot’s style watches, and for whatever reason, it’s a little under represented in the entry-to-mid tier price points. Well, all you thrifty frequent flyers can rest easy, as we’ve scouted out five of the finest affordable GMTs on the…

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26.05.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 26th May, 2017 – the auction edition

I don’t know about you, but we’ve had to drag ourselves away our screens and from the unholy timesucking triumvirate known as Twin Peaks, Master of None and Better Call Saul to find out what’s been happening in watchland. So, settle into your booth at the Double R diner, order some cherry pie and a cup of coffee, and find out what’s been going on. What happened? If you’re particularly keen T+T followers (well done you), you’ll have seen this pic on our FB, asking what watch Jac Nasser is wearing. Well, luckily this is one easier to spot than Jimmy McGill’s…

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25.05.2017

UPDATE: This Rolex Paul Newman Daytona just became the most expensive watch sold at auction in Australia

On Monday we told you about a Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona that was being auctioned by Sotheby’s Australia the following night. Well, on Wednesday we discovered that the watch hammered in at $219,600 (including buyer’s premium), making it the most expensive wristwatch ever auctioned in Australia. To find out more about what went down in Sydney on Tuesday – and what this means for the Australian vintage watch scene – I spoke to Hamish Sharma, Head of Jewels at Sotheby’s Australia, who was still recovering from such an exceptional result (the Important Jewels auction realised just over $1.8m, with 78.4…

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24.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Not your average chronograph – the Montblanc Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II Limited Edition

Editor’s Note: For my money, the Rieussec is one of the most interesting collections in Montblanc’s fine watchmaking line up. And, like most of the brand’s complicated pieces, it offers tremendous value for money. A beautiful column wheel chrono with a vertical clutch and some very pretty architecture, combined with a truly distinct style and of course that rich eggshell dial. What’s not to like?  The story in a second: This version of Montblanc’s distinctive Nicolas Rieussec collection has a nighttime party trick that’s worth staying up for. A nineteenth-century French watchmaker credited with inventing the chronograph, Nicolas Rieussec was…

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23.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: How to lose at Geneva watch auctions – a handy guide

Editor’s Note: Given that the dog and pony show that is the big Geneva auctions has just wrapped up (after breaking another bunch of records), we thought it was the perfect time to publish Time+Tide reader Julian Sack’s account of trying to buy a watch in Geneva, which we originally published one year ago – to the day. Now, Julian is no noob – he’s an experienced collector with a penchant for the Rolex Prince and Patek Philippe. So if you’ve got dreams to head to Switzerland and make a killing in the big auctions, this is a must-read. I’d never before attended…

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23.05.2017

VIDEO: The new Rolex Sea-Dweller (ref. 126600) – live on the wrist

Given that 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller, Rolex’s iconic deep diver, we were pretty confident that we were going to see an updated version at Baselworld. And the Big Crown did not disappoint, offering a brand new Sea-Dweller, the reference 126600, which quickly became one of the most talked-about watches of the fair. Now, any new, top-line release from Rolex will get people fired up, but the increased size, the single line of red text and – most significantly – the addition of a Cyclops really stirred debate. As is always the case with watches, it’s best…

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22.05.2017

NEWS: Live in Australia and looking for a Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? You might be in luck

The ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona is one of THE legendary watches. At its most basic level it’s an exotic dialled variant of the (already iconic) Rolex Daytona. Unpopular when it was originally released, things kicked off for the watch when pictures of Paul Newman wearing a ref. 6239 emerged and the once-obscure chronograph became one of the hottest tickets in town. And, like the story of all mythical creatures, that of the Paul Newman is a nugget of truth surrounded by a whole lot of  rumour, speculation and downright BS. The reason is simple – Paul Newmans are worth big dollars.…

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22.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Small changes make a big impact – the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Accio Automatic (PAM 682)

It’s been a strong year for the Submersible collection, with Panerai hitting home runs with the latest Bronzo, the ingenious BMG-Tech and the luxe lusciousness of the solid gold PAM 684. And while all these models offer a little something extra, be it limited edition exclusivity, material innovation or a solid chunk of gold, there’s also a Submersible for the rest of us, and that’s the PAM 682. Cased in plain brushed steel, on a rubber strap, the PAM 682 is the essence of the Submersible – tool-like, utilitarian and unquestionably Panerai. It’s also 42mm, which opens the traditionally beefy diver…

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21.05.2017

VIDEO: The most complicated watch in the world – the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega

Franck Muller has the impressive title of ‘The Master of Complications’ – and this wristwatch is the reason why. The Aeternitas Mega features a staggering 36 complications, 21 hands and a movement with no fewer than 1483 parts. Reading the watch takes more than a little getting used to and adjusting it requires a PhD in advanced horology. But whatever you do, don’t let it run out of power – resetting it would be a pain.

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20.05.2017

HOW TO: Start your own ‘minimalist’ watch brand

We all have friends who wear watches made by brands like Daniel Wellington and The Horse. We also all know that these watches are, essentially, identical. Yet somehow these simple quartz dress watch look-a-likes seem to net their savvy owners massive piles of dosh. Some of us may have even wondered about starting our own brand like this (I know I have). Well, wonder no more as someone (who has chosen to remain anonymous) has uploaded a helpful guide to imgur. Here’s the original, but we’ve reposted it in full below. Bravo, mystery writer. Enjoy.

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19.05.2017

LIST: Square pegs in a round world – 6 of the best square watches

Sometimes the endless parade of circular watches gets a little monotonous. We’ve been conditioned by decades of design to default to the round in watches. By and large that’s fine, but sometimes we want something just outside the norm – still versatile, still stylish, but a little less same same. And there’s where the squares come in. Now, a word of warning. What constitutes a ‘square’ in watchmaking is a subjective business. Is it the dial? Is it the case? It’s tricky, because fine watch design is not as black and white as geometry would have you believe. Well, we’ve…

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18.05.2017

VIDEO: There’s more to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second than meets the eye

At first glance the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second seems simple enough, with its round 39.6mm case in satin-brushed steel and uncluttered dial. Closer examination reveals the unmistakable quality, the frosted silver opaline dial, the mirror-polished applied batons and slender hands. The strength of the case and the judicious use of luminous material let you know that the Geophysic isn’t strictly a dress watch. Even when you flip it over and gaze at the excellent finishing and handsomely skeletonised pink gold rotor, you probably won’t spot anything that marks this watch as something truly special. No, you need to see the…

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18.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Ulysse Nardin’s surprise sailing watch – the Marine Regatta

Ulysse Nardin made their name way back in 1846 making marine chronometres – highly accurate ship’s clocks that were an essential navigational tool in the times before radio and GPS. These days the Le Locle-based brand still makes chronometre-style timepeices, but as a celebration of heritage rather than a practical tool. This isn’t to say that Ulysse Nardin has given up on the sea; far from it, as their new Marine Regatta demonstrates. Developed with the support and input of Artemis Racing – the Swedish sailing team the brand sponsors – the Marine Regatta is, as the name suggests, a regatta…

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17.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Hublot takes matching your watch to your suit to the next level with the Classic Fusion Italia Independent

Aside from Big Bangs, Hublot is perhaps best known for their prolific, and occasionally surprising, partnerships. One of the most interesting, from a design and technique perspective, is Hublot’s relationship with Italia Independent and their famous frontman – Lapo Elkann. If you pay even the slightest bit of attention to the world of men’s style, you’re probably all too aware of Elkann. If you’re not down on the difference between spritz and sprezzatura, Elkann – grandson of billionaire industrialist and sartorial icon Gianni Agnelli – is a staple of the style and society pages. He’s also the founder and driving force behind Italia…

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17.05.2017

VIDEO: Omega’s Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m gets a meaningful makeover

It’s easy to get distracted by the brightest, shiniest watches of Baselworld; the watches that live up to the marketing parlance of ‘novelties’. But sometimes the real winners are the quiet achievers. I suspect Omega’s redesigned Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m will be one of these winners. The AT (as it’s often called) has long been the go-to casual dress Omega, the obvious choice for those looking for an alternative to the storied Speedmaster or the sporty Seamaster. This year that choice just got easier. The dial has been significantly improved, with less busy text, a new horizontal stripe, and a…

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16.05.2017

EVENT: Passing on the gift of writing – Montblanc launches UNICEF collection in Australia, surrounded by incredible art

The entrance to the venue for last Friday’s Australian launch of Montblanc’s UNICEF collection was unassuming: commuters and shoppers on Melbourne’s busy Chapel street walked right past the narrow door wedged between two shopfronts. Blink and you’d miss it – we nearly did. A discreet sign was the only clue. But as soon as the door opened we knew we were in the right place. The narrow stairs of the Victorian terrace were littered with art – a Degas bronze on the landing and floor to ceiling canvases on the walls. As we reached the top of the stairs it was…

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16.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at Basel 2016’s bad boy – the Rolex Air-King

Editor’s Note: This year the watch that had tongues wagging at Baselworld was, without doubt, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono. Last year it was the Rolex Air-King, with its bold minute track and cheerful green and gold logo. Now that the Air-King is on wrists all over the world I’m struggling to justify the fuss. Sure, this masculine entry-level Rolex might not be to everyone’s tastes, but you know what – that’s OK.  The story in a second It was definitely a surprise when we saw it at Baselworld, but now the unconventional design of the new Rolex Air-King is…

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15.05.2017

NEWS: Former champion boxer Julio César Chávez Jr not having a good time – loses bout and has Hublot stolen in Las Vegas

Following in the grand tradition of elite athletes misplacing expensive watches, Mexican former WBC middleweight champion Julio César Chávez Jr has allegedly had his Hublot stolen from his Las Vegas hotel room. Chávez Jr’s wife, Frida, alleges that the unidentified Hublot (and a phone) were stolen from Chávez Jr by women with whom he was partying, and that she was later contacted by the thieves. Vaguely salacious video posted on Daily Mail shows Chávez, seemingly intoxicated, on a bed surrounded by women. Frida Chávez asserts that her husband may have been drugged in order to facilitate the theft. Luck clearly hasn’t…

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14.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: What makes a watch a keeper

Editor’s Note: We originally published this story way back in 2015, and you’ll be glad to know that Andrew still has his BLNR, and I’ve still got my Archimede. We can’t speak for everyone who answered our call out on Insta, but we suspect they’re still all getting plenty of wrist time. Without getting too first-year-political-science on you – the basis of modern life is disposability. We live in a consumer society. And that’s what we do – we consume. Everything is designed to be discarded and replaced with something newer and more expensive – from our clothes to coffee cups…

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13.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Not your average Speedy – the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph

Editor’s Note: Green, gold, silver, and grey. What a colour combo! And who said that Speedies always had to be black? I spent some quality time with this quality watch last year, and, if I’m honest, I’ve still got more than a little crush.  If, at the start of 2016, you’d have told me my favourite Omega of the year would be a two-tone Speedmaster (yellow gold no less!) with a green bezel, I’d have enjoyed a good laugh at your expense. I like a Speedy as much as the next guy, but I like them in the straight-up classical…

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12.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Looking for a dressy daily wearer that’s a little left field? Try the Chopard L.U.C XP

I don’t want to sound like a jaded watch journalist because – let’s be honest – those guys are the worst. But having said that, there were not too many surprises at Baselworld 2017. I knew we’d be seeing Speedmasters from Omega, a Sea-Dweller from Rolex and some crazy-but-cool collabs from Hublot. I didn’t expect to be blown away by a simple, smart little dress watch from Chopard. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’ve got a lot of time for Chopard’s fine watchmaking (and indeed their high jewellery – though I’m not the target market there), but the way the Chopard L.U.C XP…

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12.05.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 12th May, 2017 – the e-commerce edition

One of the biggest trends in watches isn’t colour, shape or size, but rather something more prosaic and far more important – finding new ways to sell them. Twenty-two years after eBay was founded, the luxury sector is finally getting serious about selling watches online. So rather than slacking off and sipping exotic cocktails in what’s left of the winter sun, we’re hunkered down in front of our desks, reading financial news, like the nerds we are. What happened Look, we know it’s got nothing to do with e-commerce, but when everyone’s favourite scandi-watch/fashion/lyf-guru Kristian Haagen drops knowledge on vintage…

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11.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The purity of the Grand Seiko Automatic Hi-Beat 36000 (ref. SBGH005)

Editor’s Note: For all that the watch industry speaks about timelessness and classic design, it rides the winds of fad and fashion just like any other consumer-focused business. But that’s not always the case; there are some models that remain impressively unchanged, and pure to their origins. Watches like this simple and sophisticated Grand Seiko Automatic Hi-Beat 36000. The story in a second: Grand Seiko’s limited edition Hi-Beats are hot property, but the regular production SBHG005 is, not to overstate things in any way, a masterpiece of understated excellence. Most high-end watches are instantly recognisable as luxury objects. Your watch makes a…

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10.05.2017

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01, now in a wrist-friendly 43mm

One of the watches I was most looking forward to seeing in the metal at Baselworld was the 43mm version of the distinctive Heuer 01. Now, I’m quite the fan of TAG Heuer’s skeletonised and modular take on their classic Carrera, but there’s no denying that at 45mm across, it takes certain amount of wrist or confidence to pull it off. That the 43mm version will suit more wrists is good news, the fact that there were new colours in the offing only sealed the deal. There are quite a few new Heuer 01 43mm models, including versions with solid…

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10.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: No Submariners with black tie – 5 tips for tuxedo-appropriate timepieces

Editor’s Note: Few stories have caused as much angst in the T+T office as Ceri’s searing, take-no-prisoners guidelines for what we can and cannot wear with black tie. Not only are our suits/shoes/cummerbunds not up to snuff, but it turns out our watches don’t cut it either. Read on and prepare to re-evaluate your formalwear life choices. Don’t say we didn’t warn you. First up, although we’re not here to get all pedantic on your suit, it would be negligent of us not to remind you of a few guidelines, slash hard and fast rules, worth bearing in mind. Pay attention, please:…

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09.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Last year’s surprise Tudor hit just got bigger – the Heritage Black Bay 41

One of the standouts for Tudor last year was the small and simple Black Bay 36. For the first time Tudor’s key collection shed its dive watch origins in favour of a sleeker, more minimal look. It also lost a sizeable amount of bulk, trimming down to a svelte 36mm, making it ideal for women and suitable for men looking for something different. And while the BB 36 found plenty of fans, some were left wanting a little more. Well, Tudor has been paying attention, and at Baselworld the brand unveiled an upscaled, 41mm version. Case diameter aside, not a…

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08.05.2017

VIDEO: The Big Bang, but not as you know it – Hublot’s Sang Bleu in King Gold

One of the keys to success for any watch brand is to have something instantly recognisable – a watch that can be spotted from the other side of a crowded room. Hublot’s Big Bang is one such design. With its large size and uncommon case shape the Big Bang stands out, and the Sang Bleu is no exception. In fact, as this new version is made from a sizeable lump of King Gold, it’s guaranteed to be noticed. But once you get a bit closer you might start to notice things starting to look a little different. The normally rounded bezel…

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07.05.2017

LIST: 5 incredible skills mastered in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts

Editor’s Note: Few brands can match the scope and scale of Cartier. The Parisian jewellery house offers everything from the popular and modern Juste un Clou collection through to some of the finest bespoke jewellery made. The same is true for their watch collections. Tanks and Ballon Bleus might be the order of the day, but Cartier is also capable of creating some truly exceptional technical and artistic pieces. It’s the latter category we’re going to explore today – the watches made in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts. It is impossible to overstate the importance of tradition to the Swiss watch industry.…

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06.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I’ll never buy a skeletonised watch

Editor’s Note: A few years back I got on my high horse about my arms. Specifically the fact that because of their impressive (some would say excessive) follicular nature, there is a genre of watch that I can never truly enjoy, that of the fully skeletonised timepiece. To say that my original post was widely read by the industry is perhaps a bit of an overstatement, but it’s certainly true that some brands, like Arnold & Son, are offering prettily scalloped solid casebacks or smoky sapphire alternatives to reduce the impact of unsightly hirsuite-ness. I like to think I’ve played…

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05.05.2017

HANDS-ON: The Raymond Weil Freelancer ‘Gibson Les Paul’ strikes a chord

If you’re familiar with Raymond Weil it should come as no surprise that music is a recurring theme in their collections. From homages to iconic performers such as The Beatles and the late, great David Bowie, through to watches made to honour particular instruments – such as their Nabucco Cello Tourbillon – Raymond Weil definitely has a soft spot for this most harmonious of the liberal arts. Which brings us to the Gibson Les Paul. Just as horology has its holy grails, the world of guitars also has its undisputed icons. One such legend is the Gibson Les Paul. Since its…

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05.05.2017

VIDEO: Smoke gets in your eyes – the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

When we evaluate a watch, one of our key criteria is clarity. Things like: Is the watch legible? Can you read the time in an instant? But clarity isn’t everything. There’s something to be said for mystery, and for artful concealment. And that’s exactly what makes the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire so appealing. On the one hand, this watch lays itself bare, showing off the innermost working of the perpetual calendar complication. On the other, the use of a smokey sapphire dial adds just the right amount of ambiguity. The result is compelling. And, for an RRP of $30,890…

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04.05.2017

INTRODUCING: This brand new Tudor Black Bay Bronze is a bolt from the blue

We did not see this one coming. At all. You’re looking at a Tudor Black Bay Bronze, freshly decked out in a particularly regal shade of blue. Before you get on the line to your local Tudor dealer, you should know there’s a ‘but’: this isn’t a regular production Tudor. It’s a special collaboration with venerable jewellery retailer Bucherer, who have been trading in some of the world’s finest watches since 1888. This Tudor is the latest addition to Bucherer’s ongoing series, the Bucherer Blue Editions (which also includes blue timepieces made by the likes of AP, IWC, Piaget and Moser,…

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04.05.2017

VIDEO: 3 of the biggest Blancpains from Baselworld

If you love dive watches but don’t love the wrist-dominating size that typically goes along with the genre, you’ll want to pay close attention to Blancpain this year. Alongside new 38mm versions of the pared-back Bathyscaphe, they’ve also released a particularly hot limited edition – the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec. Not only does this heritage-inspired little legend come in at a crowd-pleasing 40mm, it’s also got a funky-yet-functional dial decoration in the form of a moisture indicator. If that bi-colour circle at six changes colour, time to get your watch out of the water and into the service centre. But…

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03.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: TAG Heuer’s new breed – the Carrera Heuer 01

Editor’s Note: These days TAG Heuer’s contemporary new Carrera is a defined part of the watch landscape – coming in a wide range of colours and materials and decked out with diamonds and tourbillons. There’s even a slightly smaller 43mm version. It’s easy to forget just how surprising and ‘new’ this design was when it was first released back in 2015. This is what we thought then. The story in a second: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 is emblematic of TAG Heuer under the stewardship of Jean-Claude Biver; a bold new look at a bold new price. The press release…

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03.05.2017

HANDS-ON: The Nomos Club Campus makes the grade

If you’re an avid follower of our Instagram stories, you might have overheard my candid thoughts on the new entry level Nomos as we captured some scenic pre-Basel scene-setting. As Andrew live-panned a view of the Rhine, I could be heard distinctly in the background saying, “Ooh, new Nomos … huh, not sure about that.” The reason for my reticence (I’m typically effervescent about my favourite German watch brand) was the dial, particularly those two Roman numerals on the bottom half. First, some background on the Club. This round, slightly less classical Nomos has been a stalwart of their line-up…

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02.05.2017

HANDS-ON: One simple word that makes the Longines Record a big deal

Here at Time+Tide we make no bones about being greatly enamoured of Longines’s heritage offerings, so it’s understandable that we made a beeline for the Lindbergh and 1945 models. However, our attention was rapidly drawn to the comparatively pared-back Record, which intrigued us with one simple word on its dial – ‘chronometer’. Now, in case you’re not up with your watch jargon, a chronometer is a essentially a very precise and accurate timepiece. And while in the past the task of certifying chronometers fell to astronomical observatories, these days it’s the duty of Contrôle Officiel Suisses des Chronomètres, Switzerland’s chronometer testing institute.…

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02.05.2017

VIDEO: 3 outstanding Breguet watches from Basel 2017, including the incredible Marine Équation Marchante

Breguet may not have had the largest collection on display at Basel, but they certainly had one of the most complex. As well as some handsome new additions to the Classique family, Breguet released an epic new grand complication – the Marine Équation Marchante 5887, a completely new watch boasting a perpetual calendar, tourbillon power reserve and, wait for it… a running equation of time. What’s that, I hear you ask? Well, you’ll have watch the video and find out.

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01.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Way of the warrior – the Seiko Samurai returns in 2017

Seiko’s Prospex series of professional dive watches is renowned for two things: its exceptionally high quality-to-value ratio and its large number of passionate fans. And while there are a few perennial standouts in the Prospex family, some parts of the collection ebb and flow based on style and popularity. One such model is the so-called ‘Samurai’, a contemporarily styled 200m diver produced for a few years from 2004. Released in a range of dials variants, and in steel or titanium cases, the watch earned its moniker because the handset reminded wearers of the distinctive angles of the aforementioned warriors’ swords. Also,…

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01.05.2017

VIDEO: 4 winning Rados to look out for in 2017

When you walk into the Rado booth at Basel you can be pretty confident that you’ll see ceramic – and lots of it. This year the brand did not disappoint, offering up their trademark hi-tech watches in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours. There’s the new Ceramica – Rado’s distinctive rectangular design – which has been given an automatic upgrade and a fresh case of matt grey ceramic. Then there’s a brace of True models, made in collaboration with designers of all stripes. Our picks were the topographical True Stratum and the clever bling of the True Blaze. And then…

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30.04.2017

INTRODUCING: Looks good, does good – the Montblanc UNICEF Orbis Terrarum Limited Edition

Montblanc has been supporting UNICEF, the United Nations organisation dedicated to improving the lives of children, since 2004, with a particular focus (appropriately enough) on children’s literacy. To date they’ve donated more than $10m USD, and have pledged another $1.5m within the next 12 months. Their latest UNICEF collection offers a complete suite of luxury lifestyle companions, including leather goods and a set of particularly handsome writing instruments inspired by the Rosetta stone. Of particular interest to us though is the trio of limited edition Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum watches. We’re on record as being fans of Montblanc’s cleverly designed…

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28.04.2017

OPINION: The 6 most overused words in the watch industry

A large part of my job is sifting through press releases. After a while they all start reading the same, thanks to the seemingly limited vocabulary of most marketing departments. And you know what the greatest irony is? While these communications have been designed to make the watch they’re talking about stand out and sound unique, the constant, jargonistic repetition of these rote phrases has precisely the opposite effect. Now, it’s only fair to point out that I’m far from guilt-free in this situation. I’m pretty sure I’ve abused all the below words at some point. But you know what…

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28.04.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – 28th April, 2017

We’re calling it. Winter is here. We’ve broken out the light knits and switched the office AC from ‘cool’ to ‘heat’. One thing that’s not cooling down (see what I did there) is the always-exciting world of watch news. SIHH and Basel collections are starting to trickle into local markets, and now that the big fairs are out of the way, everyone seems to be getting stuck into the year in earnest. The other important news is that we’ve made the shift from beer to darker spirits for our (now fortnightly) winding down. Chin Chin! What happened Earlier this year…

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28.04.2017

VIDEO: Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser

There’s a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC’s most popular (in Australia at least). It’s a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses a grace and charm that belies its large size. This combination makes it one of the go-to statement watches. But did you know that it’s also got the weight of history behind it? A little while ago we chatted with IWC museum curator and general know-it-all David Seyffer for a quick history lesson on the mighty Portugieser.

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27.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The Rolex Cellini Moonphase – what it is and why it matters

While the current Rolex Cellini collection will never have the same mass appeal or cool cachet as their ever-popular steel sports models, I think this chic and refined collection is just as important and emblematic to the Big Crown. When they revamped the line in 2014, I was quite taken – with their fluted bezels, interesting dial textures and small complications, the Cellinis spoke to a mid-century tradition of elegance that seemed almost diametrically opposed to the steel sports watches for which the brand is so famous. Three years later and Rolex has added another complication to the family –…

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26.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 stunning pictures of the Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey in King Gold

Editor’s Note: Most of the time the old adage of a picture being worth a thousand words is tired and overused. But sometimes it’s true. This is one of those cases. Sure, my 500-odd words of information and opinion are great and all (pats self on back), but they pale in comparison to the stunning crispness of the photos. Jason has done an incredible job of capturing this mercurial piece. Hublot should probably get some of the credit too, for creating such a downright desirable watch.  If you look at watches on a regular basis (we’re guessing you do), it’s…

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26.04.2017

VIDEO: Top 4 Oris releases of Basel 2017

Oris seem to be going from strength to strength, releasing smart watch designs – like the Divers Sixty-Five – that impress critics and customers alike. This year it’s time for their modern diver, the Aquis, to shine. The entire collection has been revamped – it’s still big and bold, but it’s a little less blocky. Oris also released the Artelier Calibre 113, with loads of calendar complications (though truth be told, we’re still wondering who would use a week indicator), as well as some hot new heritage pieces: the old-school pilot that is the Big Crown 1917 and the funky cushion-cased…

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25.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Lest we forget – an Anzac watch story

Editor’s Note: Few heirlooms have the emotional potency of a watch. They’re objects that accompanied their owners throughout their lives, and bore silent witness to their trials and tribulations. This is especially the case with watches worn by men and women who served, which goes a long way to explaining our fascination with military timepieces. Today Australia and New Zealand commemorate Anzac Day, where we remember those who served and died during war, armed conflict and peacekeeping missions, so we’re sharing a story from last year about an old watch with a story to tell. At first glance this rusty…

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24.04.2017

VIDEO: 4 of the hottest new Seiko releases

One of the brands we’re always excited to see at Baselworld is Seiko. Not just because they’ve always got a few surprises up their sleeve, but also, if we’re honest, because the price point is a lot less painful than some of their Swiss counterparts. This year we were particularly impressed with two models that represent different ends of the Seiko style spectrum. First up is the excellent reissue of the 62MAS, Seiko’s first ever dive watch. And then there’s the flashy, dressy Cocktail Time collection, which is now part of the ever-growing Presage family. No matter what your tastes,…

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24.04.2017

VIDEO: Back to basics – how a mechanical watch works

If you take a keen interest in the world of watches, you’ve likely heard of Carson Chan. Carson works for the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, an organisation dedicated to building knowledge around fine watchmaking. And while we seem to now run into Carson every time we’re in Switzerland, we first met him in Hong Kong, at the last Watches & Wonders fair. We took the opportunity to get Carson to explain, in his calming, erudite tone, just how a mechanical watch works. Now, we’re well aware that the majority of people reading this know their mainsprings from their pallet…

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23.04.2017

HANDS-ON: Masculinity meets romance in the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases

In our recently published interview, Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s Head of Marketing and Communications, said that the Drive represents a different kind of masculinity, one that isn’t defined by “muscles, sport, achievement, performance”, but by “elegance, and style, and refinement.” Looking at the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases, you can see what he means. It’s a confident watch that takes the dressy Drive design and, by adding the eternally romantic moon phase at six, elevates it to the next level of elegance. Introduced at SIHH in stainless steel and pink gold, the Drive Moon Phases took a bit of a back seat to…

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22.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 15 Instagram wristshots that are better than yours (and why)

Editor’s Note: Instagram is all about the selfie, and the watch-oriented sectors of it are no different. Only for the #watchfam it’s less about the perfect duckface and more about the ideal dial shot. So, if you’ve ever wanted more likes than you can comfortably handle, read on.  If you’re feeling brave, type ‘wristies’ into the Google machine, and you’ll be rewarded with an eye-opening array of results. Who knew, for example, that they were a type of fingerless gloves? Fascinating stuff. Those are not the wristies we’re focusing on today – nor will we be broaching any other varieties,…

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21.04.2017

VIDEO: Apples to Apples episode 4, Jaeger-LeCoultre vs Cartier – cutting shapes

If there’s one key take away from this year’s new watch releases, it’s that brands are playing it safe, with simple, round, steel watches being the order of the day. But, thankfully for the non-conformists out there, not everyone marches to the beat of the circular drum. Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre in particular have long and proud histories of making shaped watches. So for the latest episode of Apples to Apples we thought we’d let two of the most recognisable shapes in the business square off against each other. It’s time for the JLC’s mighty Reverso to meet Cartier’s legendary Tank. Who…

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21.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The IWC Pilot’s Chronograph – one of the classics

Editor’s Note: One of the most popular watch types is the steel, black-dialled chronograph. It’s a a versatile, utilitarian classic and almost every brand has their own interpretation of the theme. IWC’s is their perennially popular Pilot’s Chronograph, a mix of military style and casual elegance. It’s an undisputed classic.  If you’ve been paying even marginal attention to IWC over the past seven months you’ll have noticed it’s on a bit of an aviation kick, refreshing the entire Pilot’s family and adding some tantalising novelties like the limited edition ‘Le Petit Prince’ edition of the Big Pilot and the ingenious Timezoner. Impressive…

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20.04.2017

VIDEO: The most important Omega releases from Baselworld 2017

Most of the Basel buzz around Omega has focused on the very excellent (and likely very hard to get) Trilogy limited editions – and rightly so. But these three spot-on reissues represent only a fraction of Omega’s 2017 c0llection, which is jam-packed full of new variants and completely new models appearing across their key collections. Not only do we have new versions of the Speedmaster and a revamped Aqua Terra 150m, but there’s a completely new regular production Railmaster and a particularly bold Planet Ocean that goes by the name of “Big Blue”. In short, there’s something for everybody.

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20.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Is the Oris Divers Sixty-Five 42mm the best heritage reissue of recent times?

Editor’s Note: Last year one of the fiercest inter-office debates was about the perfectly composed heritage piece that is the larger Divers Sixty-Five from Oris. The perennial question was, “bronze or steel?” Andrew was firmly in the bronze camp, I was steel. Read on to find out why.  Story in a second No risk of second-album syndrome here – this slightly larger take on the Divers Sixty-Five is a worthy, if slightly more mainstream, follow-up to the original release. There must be something good in the water at Hölstein, because Oris has been on fire lately. The 100% mechanical brand…

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19.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Blue” lives up to its name

While one of the key trends of Basel 2017 is a move towards more wrist-friendly dive watches (see exhibits A and B), there’s no doubt that big and bold is still the name of the game. Omega’s latest PO, the “Big Blue”, delivers on both fronts, thanks to its whopping 45.5mm wide by 17.8mm high case made from bright blue ceramic. Why Big Blue? Well, asides from the obvious, it’s an homage to a super funky (and super collectable) Omega diver’s chronograph from the ’70s. This Big Blue follows on from last year’s release of the fully ceramic “Deep Black”,…

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17.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Going back to Cali with the Panerai PAM 629 video review

Much like the state they’re named for, California (or Cali) dials have something inherently cool and playful about them. With their nonchalant mixing of formal Roman and casual Arabic numerals, you just know these watches don’t play by the rules. Which brings us to the Panerai PAM 629, first seen at Watches & Wonders in 2015. This stealthy/sexy watch raised a few eyebrows when it was released, as it was the first time the brand had paired a Cali dial with the sportier Luminor case shape.

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16.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 men’s watches that look incredible on women (and why)

Editor’s note: At Time+Tide we’ve always felt that gendering watches is somewhat pointless and arbitrary. If you like it and you can wear it, that’s all that matters – right? Sure, there won’t be too many fellas out there rocking 28mm diamond-studded Datejusts, and conversely it’s a rare woman who can rock a 50mm+ timepiece. But between these two poles there’s a wide range of ‘men’s’ watches that look the business on a woman’s wrist. We asked Ceri David to hunt down six of the best.  Ever since the female of the species began wearing trousers circa the 1920s, they’ve been…

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14.04.2017

GOOD FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 14th April, 2017 – the Easter edition

Happy Easter everyone. It’s Good Friday down here in Melbourne, so this edition of the Wind Down will be brief, as the office is closed and I’m penning this between nibbles of hot cross bun and wines in the sun. Not a bad way to spend the day at all. Hope your day off is similarly laid-back. What happened We still can’t stop talking about Basel. Aside from our big ‘Best of’ list, we did some wrap-ups of the best Bulgari (super slim) and Grand Seiko (super chunky) releases from the fair. What really mattered Well, the big news is…

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14.04.2017

LIST: Our top 11 watches from Basel 2017, in pictures

Last week we published a video of our top picks from Baselworld 2017. We filmed it in a pretty sleep-deprived state towards the end of the fair, with the thought of dropping a list while the watches were still hot. If you haven’t seen it, we’ve embedded it at the end of this story. (We hope you’ll enjoy a watch-related chuckle at our expense.) But we understand that not everyone has the time or headphones for video. So if you prefer your images still instead of moving, here are our 11 favourites in all their glorious, technicolour detail. Enjoy. Seiko Presage Cocktail…

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14.04.2017

HANDS-ON: A square peg in a round hole – the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

The first Bell & Ross I ever laid my hands on, back in 2008, was the Marine, an uncommon and somewhat unusual beast that took the brand’s trademark dial and transplanted it into a large, 1000m water resistant, tonneau-shaped case that looked like it could handle anything short of being run over by a main battle tank (and even then it’d probably only scratch the case a little). And it turns out that this isn’t the brand’s first foray into the world of hardcore divers (check out the Hydromax). The only issue is that these older models don’t neatly fit…

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13.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The Aegir CD-2, a dive watch made by… wait for it… an ACTUAL diver

Editor’s note: There’s nothing that watch journos love more than a watch with a story. Marketing departments know this, and try hard (sometimes too hard) to come up with gripping narratives behind their latest and greatest. In all my years of writing about watches, I’ve come across few stories as authentic and compelling as that of Australian micro-brand Aegir Instruments and the man who makes them. Oh, and the watches aren’t too shabby either.   Todd Caldwell, the man behind the brand, is a commercial diver – and the inspiration for Caldwell to go out on a limb and make his own dive watch…

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12.04.2017

VIDEO: 4 of the biggest Grand Seikos released at Baselworld 2017

Grand Seiko had big news at Baselworld 2017 – and not just the epically proportioned (and named) Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s watch. No, the really big news was that for the first time since 1960, Grand Seiko would stand apart as its own brand. It was the logical next step for Japan’s premier watch brand, which only launched globally in 2010 but has been rapidly building boutiques ever since. Aside from changes to brand position, strategy, company structure and all that jazz, for watch fans the major shift is that Grand Seiko watches will no longer read “Seiko/Grand Seiko” on the…

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12.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Our A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds video review

A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is an unusual and very serious watch. The jumping seconds, or deadbeat seconds, is perhaps the most stealth complication out there – most people would assume the ticking seconds hand is powered by a battery rather than intricate gearing. It’s also a complication that’s finally enjoying its day in the sun, with brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz and Grönefeld all releasing their take on this once-obscure complication. Lange’s version adds a regulator-style dial and some classical German good looks. The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Australian pricing The Richard Lange…

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11.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: What happens in a Rolex Service Centre? We visited one to find out…

Editor’s Note: Working in watches, one of the most common complaints is poor aftersales support. If you believe every horror story you hear, servicing or returning a watch for any reason can be outrageously expensive, horrendously slow and the result can be of questionable quality. And while it’s best to take these tales with a grain of salt (did you really expect your high end chrono to be as simple and cheap to service as an old Toyota?), the reality is that too many brands overlook the unglamorous service centre in favour of the shiny new boutique. There’s one exception –…

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10.04.2017

HANDS-ON: Panerai’s Midas touch – the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Oro Rosso (PAM 684)

There’s something gloriously, incredibly and fabulously over the top about a solid gold dive watch. It’s the ultimate juxtaposition of functional object and precious ornament, all bundled up in a neat, wrist-optimised package. It’s this contrast that lies at the heart of the PAM 684’s appeal. And make no mistake, this is an incredibly lust-worthy watch. At first glance it looks like a slimmed-down version of the Submersible we know and love – that crown, the matt black ceramic bezel insert, the hardy rubber strap – so far it’s very much what you’d expect from Panerai. But then your brain processes…

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07.04.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 7th April, 2017 – the Basel comedown edition

Forgive us readers for we have sinned. It’s been two weeks since our last Wind Down. But we’re hoping you’ll forgive us as we’ve been a little preoccupied with the cavalcade of new releases that is Baselworld. Well, now we’ve overcome the jetlag and it’s back to business as usual. Which today means making the most of the fading summer sun, with a beer in hand and some very fresh memories to pick through. What happened Honestly we’re still coming down off the Basel high, and getting up to speed with the wider watch world so we’re probably not as well…

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07.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The dark and mysterious Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in platinum

There’s a lot of love in the Time+Tide office for the Slim d’Hermès collection – it’s classic, classy and somewhat free from the Swiss traditionalism that constrains the rest of the fine watch industry. So we’re very happy to see Hermès continuing to expand this relatively young collection, this time with a new platinum-cased perpetual calendar. A perpetual calendar has been part of the family from the beginning. When the Slim was announced in 2015, the rose gold case with silver dial was the complicated heart of the range – a mature take on a traditional function. Structurally this new…

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06.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar

Heritage is here to stay. What started as a trend intended to appeal to the hard core of collectors has slipped into the mainstream, and somewhere along the way it became a key pillar in major brands’ release strategies. In 2007 it was very much novelty, now it’s the new normal. Case in point is Patek Philippe’s hero model of 2017 – the 5320G Perpetual Calendar, an undeniably handsome take on a very Patek complication. The 5320G is not a remake of a particular vintage reference (though it does bear a striking resemblance to the ref. 3448); rather it’s a…

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04.04.2017

HANDS-ON: Return of the reasonably sized diver – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 38mm

Dive watches, almost by their very definition, tend to be oversized creatures from the deep. Historically the reasons for the chunky cases and gargantuan proportions were very clear, these watches were pushing the boundaries of what was possible – serious tools for a serious purpose. Somewhere along the way the functionality started driving the aesthetic, to a point where helium escape valves, 100 bar ratings and innovative bezel lock systems were implemented on watches that barely (if ever) saw any bottom time. It was starting to get a little ridiculous. If you wanted a solid timepiece you could swim with…

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04.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Classique 7147 gets an enamel update

Last year’s slim Breguet Classique 7147 had a spectacular dial, with a central section in detailed engine-turned guilloche and a subdial in a delicate crosshatch pattern. It was, not to overstate things, the star of the show. It’s a very difficult art to master, but there’s no doubt that Breguet has the technique down pat. So, imagine our surprise when we were presented this year’s update of the 7147 and there was not a hobnail or brushed finish to be seen. In its place is a single piece of lustrous grand feu enamel – an equally tricky technique to master –…

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03.04.2017

HANDS-ON: Seventies style at its best – the Oris Chronoris Date

One watch leapt out at me from Oris’ 2017 collection – the Chronoris Date. Not only is the colour scheme and tonneau case shape pretty eye-catching, but it’s also an honest and authentic homage to the timepieces of the ‘70s. In fact the Chronoris name refers to a 1970 design that was the brand’s first chronograph. This reinterpretation isn’t a chrono, but it’s certainly an era appropriate design.  Given that I’ve got an incredibly soft spot for this sort of fun and funky design (I’ve been wanting an Omega Memomatic for ages, and – until it died – a compressor…

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30.03.2017

HANDS-ON: And now for something completely different – the Hublot Big Bang Rainbow Sapphire

The Hublot booth at Baselworld is a busy place, a multi-level monolith that’s more akin to a mini city than a trade show stand. We spent a few hours there, taking photos, shooting video and generally getting acquainted with the new collection. We had the door of our little room open, and we could hear the constant, polite hubbub that, in a lot of ways, defines Basel. One French phrase made its way repeatedly to our ears – ‘La Rainbow’. Curiosity got the better of us and we asked to see this rainbow everyone was talking about. A few minutes…

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29.03.2017

HANDS-ON: The Bell & Ross BR-X1 RS17, inspired by an F1 steering wheel

Two of the most visible trends at Basel 2017 have been bright colours and unusual materials. For their second collection in collaboration with the Renault Sport Formula One team, Bell & Ross’ BR-X1 combines both in one big, bold package. The chassis for this popping Bell & Ross is the large BR X1 case, in lightweight, hi-tech Carbone Forgé. The engine is the same, skeletonised automatic, modular chronograph we’ve seen in previous BR X1 models. But the real winner is the colourful livery. Renault Sport’s yellow is vey much in evidence, in case details and chronograph rockers as well as the thin…

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28.03.2017

VIDEO: 5 Hublot watches that bucked the trends at Baselworld 2017

The dust is settling on Baselworld 2017, and we’re finally able to step back from the excitement and drama to have a bit more of an objective look at the fair as a whole. And it appears that, overwhelmingly, brands have been playing it calm and cautious. Fewer complications than usual were presented, but smartly priced steel watches were the order of the day. It doesn’t look like Hublot got that memo. One of the brands at the heart of the LVMH watch empire had a big, unashamedly bold line up of releases that made for a refreshing change of pace.…

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27.03.2017

VIDEO: Fantastic 4 – the best TAG Heuer watches from Baselworld 2017

TAG Heuer is a brand with the pedal to the metal – which is appropriate given their motorsports heritage. Having said that, TAG Heuer’s Baselworld 2017 releases have been both diverse and prolific. There’s the heritage hotness of the Autavia, but there’s also the slimmed down and blinged up versions of the aggressively modern and technical modular Carrera. But the real surprise is a completely revamped and reimagined Link – what was once bold and chunky is now sleek and dressy…

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27.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Barely there brilliance – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

Some of the most important, exciting watches are those made by watchmakers who push the barriers of what’s possible. The deepest, the most complicated, or in the case of this Bulgari, the thinnest. Bulgari has a proven record when it comes to high-end, ultra thin horology. They hold the record for the thinnest tourbillon and the thinnest minute repeater. Now they can add the thinnest automatic movement to the list. The movement in the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is a mere 2.23mm thick, 0.7mm thinner than Piaget’s legendary 12P. On top of that the whole watch comes in at…

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26.03.2017

NEWS: This beaten-up Tudor Oyster Submariner 7923 is about to sell for more than $100,000 on eBay

Buying vintage watches on Ebay can be a risky business. There’s a lot of sharks and gussied up pieces in those murky waters. But, every so often those incredible barn finds do happen. Like this reference 7923 Tudor Submariner, which at the time of writing has a high bid of $99,999 USD, with 2d 16h to go. Yes you read that number right, a buck below one hundred grand. And to think that the seller originally listed it with a starting price of $3500, and the following sparse (almost poetic) description; The model number is 7923. This is one of the…

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26.03.2017

LIST: The 5 watches we’re arguing most about at Baselworld 2017

Baselworld is a pressure cooker. It’s an intense week full of back-to-back appointments, cramped accommodation and more watches than – if we’re being really honest – is healthy to try and process at once. So it’s only to be expected that Andrew and I have our own instincts about what are the hotties and notties. In fact, sometimes it can get downright frosty in Chez Time+Tide. It’s Saturday evening here, and instead of chilling out we’re getting fired up over a few Feldschlössen and five watches we just can’t see eye to eye on. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller ANDREW: I’m rapt…

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25.03.2017

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2017 Rolex Sky-Dweller in Rolesor 

In the months, weeks and days leading up to Baselworld the speculation around what novelties Rolex would release reached a near fever pitch. Pundits made predictions about what the new Sea-Dweller would look like, and if we’d see extensions added to the Daytona and Yacht-Master family. But no one predicted an updated Sky-Dweller… Originally released in 2012 the Sky-Dweller has always been something of a niche proposition. Highly complex and only offered in precious metals, the dressy Rolex lacked the instant cachet of the Professional series. Well, with the addition of competitively priced Rolesor models (the steel and yellow gold has…

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24.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Return of an icon – the TAG Heuer Autavia

The new Autavia is finally here. Twelve months after TAG Heuer announced the Autavia Cup, an innovative, open design process that allowed fans to have their say on the look of the final product is here, and it’s quite the looker. The Autavia, a portmanteau combination of automobile and aviation, was first released by Jack Heuer in 1962 and was the first chronograph wristwatch with a rotating bezel, a feature that added even more functionality to the already utilitarian watch. And, as is the case with all of Heuer’s chronographs, the identity of the Autavia is inseparable from the world…

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24.03.2017

VIDEO: Tudor’s key Baselworld 2017 releases – 4 ways with the Black Bay

One of the brands we’re always excited to see at Basel is Tudor. They’ve built a reputation for consistently delivering solid, and occasionally surprising watches, and 2017 is no different. We take a look at four new versions of their flagship Black Bay. There’s the simple but upscaled BB41, the blingy BB S&G, the rugged new BB Steel and the complex BB Chrono. If there’s one thing that struck us about the collection as a whole, it’s just how versatile (and enduringly popular) the Black Bay design is.

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24.03.2017

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage 1945

One of the highlights on our Baselworld calendar is seeing what heritage re-release Longines has cooked up, and whoo boy, have they pulled out all the stops in 2017 or what. You’re looking at the Heritage 1945, an absolutely on point interpretation of a mid-century dress watch. Based on a 1945 design called the Calatrava by collectors, this watch does everything right. Funnily enough it’s the exact watch that Sunflowerman illustrated as part of the Watercolour Watch project back in 2015. The 40mm steel case is simple, and not overly fussy, with a flat bezel just the right width and…

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23.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko has just released their first professional diver, the Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m (refs. SBGH255, SBGH257) and we find it intimidating

Seiko’s reputation in the world of professional dive watches is unimpeachable, and a trusty Seiko diver is a staple in any well-rounded collection. But, until now these watches have primarily been made under the Seiko Prospex label. Well, that all changes today with the introduction of the first ever professional-grade diver made under their top tier label, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver. Released in two versions, the regular production black-dialled SBGH255 and the limited edition (of 500) blue-dialled SBGH257 is every inch a professional grade diver: with a large 46.9mm wide and 16.9mm high titanium case, powered…

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23.03.2017

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Spring Drive GMT (ref. SBGC219)

Last year Grand Seiko released a new-look, sporty, modular, ceramic and titanium Spring Drive Chronograph. It was a bold change of pace for the usually buttoned-up brand, and I’ve got to say it both surprised and delighted me. Baselworld 2017 sees the return of this modular approach, in the form of the Black Ceramic Collection – a trifecta of three Spring Drive GMTs. There’s a black dial (SBGC221) and a white dial (SBGC223), but the version that caught our hearts and inspired out minds was the blue and gold SBGC219. Of course this is the limited edition (500 pieces). But…

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23.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko reissue their first ever watch, plus a completely new re-interpretation

Watch brands love nothing more than an anniversary. You might even be forgiven for thinking that marketing departments devote a substantial amount of energy to finding ever more obscure historical events, products or personages to commemorate with a new limited edition. 56 years since the release of our mildly popular chronograph? Reissue. The company founder’s brother got married on this day 132 years ago? Gala event. Jane from accounts is going on long service leave? Commemorative limited edition. Given this bloviating trend it’s refreshing to see no mention of ‘anniversary’ anywhere in Seiko’s press release for the reissue of the original…

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22.03.2017

INTRODUCING: The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel – a rugged new look and a hot date

Tudor has just lifted the lid on the Black Bay Chronograph, and already they’re showingg us another Baselworld 2017 novelty, and surprisingly/unsurprisingly it’s another take on the Black Bay. But rather than offer novel materials or finishes, like last year’s Bronze and Dark version, Tudor has revisited the heart of the collection, and offered another bezel variant to accompany the Red, Blue and Black. Only this time, it’s not a new colour per se, in fact it’s no colour at all. Meet the Black Bay Steel, with its distinctive, and decidedly tool-look radially satin-brushed steel bezel. The observant among you…

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22.03.2017

VIDEO: Omega 1957 Trilogy box set, containing new Speedmaster, Railmaster and Seamaster models

This year marks the 60th anniversary of three of Omega’s most important models: the Speedmaster, Seamaster and Railmaster. The brand is celebrating by releasing a frankly epic trio of limited edition reissues, available individually, or in this ‘1957 Trilogy’ box set. No word yet on pricing or availability. While we don’t have much in the way of technical detail at yet, first impressions are very positive. The only noticable difference between these new versions and the original models seems to be the coloured luminous material. To see just how good, and faithful, they are, have a look at the new…

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20.03.2017

BASEL BUILDUP: 1 day to go. Patek Philippe’s World Time Chronograph proves that you don’t always need hype…

BASEL BUILDUP: We’re about to enter the single most-hyped week of the watch calendar. Every brand is bringing the full weight of their marketing arsenal to bear. Ambassadors, VVIPs, glitz and glamour – Baselworld has it all. But not every brand plays this game. Take Patek and the technical virtuosity that is the  5930G  for example, a watch that arrived with virtually no fanfare aside from the ringing in the ears we experienced when we first saw it… Last year Patek Philippe’s showstopper Basel release was the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. Perhaps the most notable feature of Patek’s foray into the…

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18.03.2017

INTRODUCING: The Longines Conquest VHP – very precise, very cool

We don’t talk much about quartz here at Time+Tide, and that’s usually for a good reason. Most quartz watches are pretty boring. There are, however, some exceptional quartz technologies out there, and the just-announced Longines Conquest VHP is a great example of this. VHP stands for Very High Precision and it is, believe it or not, a reissue of a model originally released in 1984, when ultra-accurate quartz represented one of the watch world’s great frontiers. As you’d expect from a watch with precision in the name (albeit in acronym form), accuracy is a key feature. The Conquest VHP boasts a…

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17.03.2017

INTRODUCING: See the world as never before with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time

Not content to wow us with an exceptionally assured and complex SIHH collection, Vacheron Constantin have just announced their latest, highly limited (like, 10 pieces limited) version of the Traditionnelle World Time, originally shown in 2011. First of all, this 42.5mm Traditionelle is cased in platinum. Most of the time that’s special enough, but in this instance the heavy metal pales in comparison to the enamel dial. Comprised of three overlapping discs, the dial of the World Time is already a complex beast, but it’s elevated even more through the use of opaque and grisaille enamel techniques. At the centre…

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17.03.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 16th March, 2017

Schedules are printed. Bags are packed. Passports located. We. Are. Ready. For. Baselworld. Next time we Wind Down, it’ll be over a frosty Feldschlössen (our Basel beer of choice) and there’ll be pretzel crumbs all over the place. What happened Horological marketing departments are a fairly conservative bunch on the whole, because luxury watches are, apparently, a serious business. It seems that Corum are the exception that proves the rule. This video for their 2017 collection is, hands down the best watch ad we’ve seen in a long time. Corum marketing team, we salute you, completely laughable (watch the video) Bubble Earth/Sun/Eye watch,…

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17.03.2017

BREAKING: This is the latest Swiss Smart Watch – the Montblanc Summit

Meet the latest surprise entrant in the luxury Swiss smart watch sector – the Montblanc Summit. Yes, you read that right, Montblanc. Outgoing CEO Jérôme Lambert has just released details of the Summit, a fully fledged smart watch, with a 46mm case, and (in a first for the connected sector) a curved sapphire touchscreen. The looks of the summit draw strongly from the popular 1858 collection, Lambert says “we wanted to bring a one-of-a-kind vintage design expression into this new product category to inspire the younger generation who appreciates the vintage look”, which is quite a novel approach. Not only…

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16.03.2017

VIDEO: Piaget 2017 collection overview proves thin is still in

Piaget’s pioneering Altiplano has been impressing since 1957, and given that watch brands love nothing more than an anniversary, we were expecting plenty of that barely-there silhouette in the collection at SIHH. And that’s fair enough, when you consider that, 60 years on, mechanical watches still don’t come any slimmer than the Altiplano. Even so, we weren’t quite prepared for just how stunning the new special editions are, with colourful, shimmering dials that really blew us away. Oh, and Piaget also snuck in a stealthy new black Polo S as well. The only question remaining is, would I rock this diamond-encrusted tourbillon?    

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15.03.2017

VIDEO: Oris take to the skies in the loudest, fastest video we’ve ever made

Ladies and gentleman, if we could please have your attention during our pre-flight safety demonstration. Our pilots today are Skip Stewart and Jurgis Kairys. During our three-minute flight you will experience some turbulence, along with dizzying aerobatics, death-defying stunts and extreme speed, so we advise you to familiarise yourself with the brace position. If you have any concerns about your heart rate, please consult the pulsometer on the Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service II. We’ll be departing from Avalon Airshow – the most significant event on the Australian aviation calendar – in the safe hands of Oris, who have a proven track…

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13.03.2017

VIDEO: Vacheron Constantin 2017 collection – the most complicated of SIHH

Vacheron Constantin bucked the trend this year at SIHH. While many of their fellow exhibitors played it safe, bringing out crowd-pleasing steel models and revisiting their greatest hits, Vacheron Constantin walked another path, with a collection focused at the very highest end of horology. Not only did they offer mind-numbingly complex astronomical grand complication and a grand sonnerie model, they also offered some sculptural (yet still super complex) Métiers d’Art options. Oh, and they threw in some handsome new takes on existing models for good measure. Definitely not playing it safe.

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11.03.2017

IN-DEPTH: My month-long affair with the Apple Watch Edition Series 2

Mechanical watches are very important to me. Not only are they the way I earn my living, they’re also a real passion. So it was with a sense of very real unease that I prepared for this review. Not because I have a fundamental aversion to quartz, connected or smart devices, but because I was concerned, deep down, that what the Apple Watch offered might be more compelling to me than the bridges and barrels I love so much. You see, while I’ve been a ‘watch guy’ for the past decade or so, I’ve been an ‘apple guy’ for far, far longer.…

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10.03.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 10th March, 2017

If we’re completely honest, there’s not a lot of winding down going on today at Time+Tide. It’s more of a Friday gear up, really. We’re up to our necks in pre-Basel press releases, schedules and the administrivia that is part and parcel of this sort of venture. So, when we do pop the top off a frosty brew, it’ll be more in the ‘well-earned’ vein than the ‘lazy-Friday-in-the-sun’ vibe. But enough about us, on to the news! What happened Eagle-eyed Andy Green spotted (because that’s what he does) a PuristsPro post showing a Hodinkee X Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache up for sale.…

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10.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Return of a legend – the Halios Puck II

Over the years, I’ve worn many (many) watches for review purposes, and to be honest it’s rare that I’m still thinking about that watch months or years after the fact. The Puck, from Canadian micro-brand Halios, is one of the rare exceptions. I wrote up the DLC version of the original Puck over on Hodinkee, way back in 2013 and it’s been stuck in my head ever since. So when I noticed some early renders of the Puck II on Instagram last year, I immediately contacted Jason Lim, founder of Halios, to get my hands on it ASAP (for purely impartial review…

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09.03.2017

VIDEO: Girard-Perregaux 2017 collection – the biggest controversy at SIHH?

While the watches at SIHH change every year, one thing stays reassuringly the same, and that is the drama surrounding them. Sometimes it’s big, like the deregulation of the Swiss Franc. Sometimes it’s small, like a brand being a little too obsfucatory in a press release over the origins of a movement. This year everyone’s tongues seemed to be wagging about a) Moser’s cheesy take on the industry, and b) the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. Feel free to disagree with us, but we think the majority of noise around the Laureato –  specifically around its look and legitimacy – is well and truly blown…

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08.03.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Absolute harmony – the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

Editor’s Note: I don’t know what you’re watching at the moment, but in between bingeing on Gilmore Girls and Black Mirror I’ve been voraciously consuming Abstract: The Art of Design, a Netflix documentary series showcasing exceptional designers. As you’d expect from the subject matter and the production values, it’s very pretty viewing. I might go so far as to say it’s almost too perfect. Regardless, my first instinct was obviously to compare the values and theory applied to art, architecture and objects in the series to watches. And one I kept coming back to was this beautifully simple Saxonia from A. Lange & Söhne. …

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06.03.2017

VIDEO: Ulysse Nardin 2017 collection overview and their impressive SIHH debut

Le Locle-based Ulysse Nardin made their debut showing at SIHH this year, and we have to say, they brought the heat. We’re used to brands showing us one or two major novelties, but it’s safe to say UN went far beyond that. From technical tourbillons and regatta timers through to stunning dress pieces, vintage reissues and haute horlogerie wonders, the scale and substance of Ulysse Nardin’s offering meant their booth had a real buzz. What does this mean for Australian watch fans? Well, expect to see and hear a whole lot more about UN in the coming months as the brand…

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03.03.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 3rd March, 2017

It’s been a mildly epic week here at T+T HQ. We’ve had a full plate of videography, airshow action with Oris (we’re now investigating options around leasing a Pilatus private jet – don’t tell our accountant), and Felix is becoming worryingly attached to the Apple Watch he’s reviewing. On top of all this, the logisitical nightmare that is our Baselworld 2017 schedule continues apace. Basically, we’ve earned our Friday knock-off drinks this week. Now if only we had a space-age flask to pour our booze out of… What happened? It’s really good to see one of the biggest names in independent horology, Urwerk,…

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03.03.2017

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with the Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II, live from the Avalon airshow

When it comes to partnerships, there are a few routes watch brands typically embark on. There’s the celebrity ambassador, which is often little more than name awareness and a few key appearances. Then there’s the high-profile event tie-in, which usually results in a limited edition with a few dial tweaks. And there’s the organisational partnership, which, in its best form results in two like-minded parties creating something that benefits all involved. It’s this last model that Oris tends to opt for, and they do it well. Oris Australia has a strong track record in supporting charitable organisations, notably their work around…

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02.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Three colours Piaget – the 60th anniversary Altiplano in blue, green and grey

This year Piaget celebrates 60 years of the ground-breaking Altiplano. Released in 1957, the original model was the perfect vehicle for the revolutionary 2mm thin 9P, which went on to become the gold standard for reliable, elegant, ultra-thin movements. Over the decades, there’s been a clear evolution of the Altiplano (which was named after a high-altitude plateau in the Andes, by the way). Key releases include the 1960 automatic version (calibre 12P), and in 2013 the 900P, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, measuring 3.65mm, followed two years later by the Altiplano Chronograph which added complication to the equation while still measuring in at…

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01.03.2017

VIDEO: Baume & Mercier 2017 collection overview and their athletic new shape

Anyone who’s followed the SIHH 2017 releases will have noticed a few clear trends emerging – more entry level options, more yellow gold, that sort of thing. One trend that wasn’t as remarked upon in all the excitement of the fair was the way several brands made significant changes to their marketing and identity. Baume & Mercier is a case in point. Over the past few years they’ve invested time and effort into building their image as a brand with a long and proud heritage, and their product releases – particularly in the Clifton and Capeland collections – reflected this history. All that…

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28.02.2017

LIST: 5 standout Rolexes worn at the 89th Academy Awards (which they just happen to sponsor)

The 89th Acadamy Awards will go down in history as one of the more infamous Oscars, largely due to the La La Land/Moonlight mix-up, but also because of the strong political undertones (ACLU ribbons were the accessory of choice). For watch people, though, the 2017 awards will be remembered as the year the Academy was first sponsored by Rolex. The Swiss giant chose to mark the occasion by airing a 60-second celebration of cinema, seamlessly showcasing some of Hollywood’s biggest names wearing their iconic watches. Of course, that showreel wasn’t the only Rolex-gazing opportunity. Here are five of our favourites, spotted roaming free…

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25.02.2017

VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre 2017 collection overview (including the watch that knocked us both out)

Jaeger-LeCoultre did everything right at SIHH. Their collection surprised and delighted in equal measure with a little something for everyone, from high-end tourbillons to fresh takes on the feminine Rendez-Vous, and sexy new variants of old favourites (we’re looking at you, black and pink gold Master Compressor). But it was the trio of watches comprising the refreshed Master range that really stole the show. That’s not just thanks to their undeniably handsome looks, but also their smart pricing, and the fact JLC seems willing to listen to what consumers want, and offer an on-trend addition to their typically timeless fare. The only…

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24.02.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 24th February, 2017 – the recommended reading edition

It’s easy to get caught up in this whole 24-hour news cycle thing. Every five seconds there seems to be a new story/scandal/watch, and sometimes it all gets a little too much. That’s why, for today’s Wind Down, we’re trying to actually live up to the name. So, close your work email, divert your phone to voicemail and take 10 minutes to peruse our recommended reading list. What happened A bunch of brands announced pre-Basel releases, sponsorship deals and the like. But that’s not what we’re about today. What really mattered Too many otherwise serious watch guys dismiss Alain Silberstein. Sure, his designs are an…

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23.02.2017

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Enamel collection – 4 new looks for last year’s surprise hit, starting at $1800

If you’re into watches and haven’t heard about the Presage Chronograph from Seiko, we’re sorry to be the ones to tell you, but you’ve been living under a rock. It was, without doubt, the winning curveball of 2016, and for good reason. It ticked all the boxes: pedigree, style, mechanics, value and an incredibly handsome dial. The only problem is that it was a limited edition. Well, that’s not the case with the four new regular production additions to the Presage line, still based on Seiko’s historical ‘Laurel’ model, and all featuring lustrous hand-fired enamel dials and classic style, replete with Roman…

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21.02.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Omega does some heavy lifting with the Globemaster Annual Calendar

Editor’s Note: With Baselworld just around the corner we can’t help but wonder if Omega will treat us to some more thrills (hopefully not spills) courtesy of the Globemaster. The first version of this retro-ish watch exploded onto wrists in 2015 to very near universal acclaim, followed in 2016 by this much more polarising Annual Calendar. So, where could Omega take the Globemaster in 2017? New complications, sizes or materials? We don’t know, but it’s fun to speculate. Until then, take a few minutes to bask in the glory of these stunning shots of the controversial watch.  Story in a second Omega adds an…

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21.02.2017

VIDEO: Cartier 2017 collection overview and the ‘perfect’ Drive

Between you and me, we were pretty happy with Cartier’s SIHH 2017 collection. And no, not just because the re-release of the Panthère gives us carte blanche to post this picture of Pierce Brosnan in his ’80s prime: No, it’s because we’re all big fans of the Drive, and the powers that be in Cartier’s product development team saw fit to bless us with two very handsome new versions – one with a moon phase, and an extra-flat version that is, in our not-so-humble opinion, stripped-back perfection. Our only problem with it? The lack of a steel version. Let’s just…

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20.02.2017

HANDS-ON: Retro Rado – the funkadelic HyperChrome 1616

When our good friend Justin Mastine-Frost was assembling his lists of last year’s best watches at various budgets, one entry in the 3-4k category sprung out – the Hyperchrome 1616. And no, not just because of how huge it is. The reason it stood out is because it challenges many of the stereotypes and preconceptions about Rado watches. When I think Rado, I immediately visualise sleek, thin cases, instantly recognisable thanks to the opalescent sheen of ceramic. Well, the 1616 is none of those things, but that doesn’t mean it’s not Rado to the core. You don’t have to be an expert to realise…

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17.02.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 17th February, 2017

Some weeks, the Wind Down is full of momentous news and calamitous happenings. Brands being sold, records broken – that sort of thing. This is not one of those weeks. We’re in the eye of the SIHH/Baselworld storm, and, on the surface at least, everything is calm. At this point we’re going to get all choose-your-own-adventure on you. Do you a: Enjoy this moment of peace, and pour yourself something light and sparkly? Or do you b: Hunker down in the corner with a tankard of foul-smelling swill and mutter cantankerously about ‘trouble-a-brewin’ in a thick rural accent. Either way, read…

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17.02.2017

VIDEO: Montblanc 2017 collection overview and our verdict on the new Timewalker

Over the past few years we’ve come to depend on Montblanc for their faultless heritage-inspired reissues and ‘real world’ pricing structure, so imagine the surprise on our faces when we caught our first glimpse of their 2017 line up. Sure, there were still plenty of Heritage Chronométrie pieces and new 4810 models, but the real star of the show was the completely re-imagined Timewalker. In the video, Andrew and I discuss the pros and cons of the brand’s new, automotive direction and while we didn’t quite see eye-to-eye on the on the Timewalker, we could both very much get behind…

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15.02.2017

VIDEO: Why I love my watch – with RedBar founder Adam Craniotes

If you like watches (you do) and exist in a digital age (also affirmative) there’s a good chance you’ve encountered the garrulous Adam Craniotes – heck you might have even seen his tour of NYC. And if you’ve come across @Craniotes, you’ve probably heard the story of his IWC Perpetual Calendar, and how he had to borrow cash off his mum to get it, and the Delilah-esque toll she exacted. (We’re not going to tell you that story, but you can read up on it here if you like.) On this occasion, we asked Adam to tell us about his Jaeger-LeCoultre Master…

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15.02.2017

VIDEO: Panerai 2017 collection overview and our 3 favourites *post may contain traces of bronze*

Panerai kicked off 2017 with a bang. The brand that artfully bolts together ‘Italian design and Swiss precision’ showed a cohesive range with a strong material focus at SIHH in January. At the collection’s core was the mighty Luminor Submersible in many shapes and sizes. Andrew and I picked our three favourite takes on this diver’s diver, and it quickly became clear just how versatile the Submersible is: from dressy to everyday to downright lustworthy. All that’s needed is a change of case metal and a new dial. The only question is, which watch wouldn’t Andrew shut up about?

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14.02.2017

HANDS-ON: Reach for the skies with the Oris Pro-Pilot Big Crown Day Date

For a few weeks in March, Avalon (part-way between Melbourne and Geelong) will become one of the busiest air spaces in the country. The normally sleepy airport will be transformed when state-of-the-art planes including the gigantic RAF Atlas airlifter and the F-35 Joint Strike Fighter (in its first Australian sighting), will thunder down from the skies. The reason, of course, is the bi-annual Avalon airshow, the world’s third largest aviation trade show, and if you’re in the market for a private jet or just looking to stock up on heat-seeking missiles, no doubt it’s already in the diary. We’ll be there for a…

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10.02.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 10th February, 2017 – the money edition

For those of our readers who don’t live in Australia, have a quick look at the below heat map. Bet you didn’t know heat maps went up to purple did you? Well, they do, and what that means is that we’re currently sheltering in the cooling AC of the office, and dreading the blisteringly hot commute home. So, those are our problems. You know what makes things better? Money. Well, not really. Happiness, friends and family are probably a safer long-term but, then again, you can buy watches with money. On that note, Happy Wind Down! What happened? So, it’s a…

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10.02.2017

HANDS-ON: A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date

We’re willing to bet that when you think of Breguet, the first thing that comes to mind is slim elegance, or maybe the old-world charm of their vintage chronos. But a casual/luxury sports watch? Not so much. Nevertheless, that’s exactly what the Marine 5817 is – Breguet’s take on a breezy weekender. Sure, it’s got all the brand’s classic hallmarks; the fluted middle case, the very particular lugs and, of course, that guilloche dial. But this is no delicate dandy. Water resistance is solid at 100m, there’s lume, the crown is protected by some unique, curved crown guard and it…

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09.02.2017

HANDS-ON: The appeal of Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Magic Sapphire is crystal clear

When Hublot released two takes on sapphire Big Bangs last year – the Unico Sapphire and the All Black version – we suspected that wouldn’t be the last we’d see of the clear case material. Lo and behold, our hunch has proved correct with the release of the Big Bang Unico Magic Sapphire. Compared to 2016’s white-on-white and jet black limited editions, the Magic Sapphire feels far less ghostly and much more tangible. This is largely down to the smart design. By using their ‘Black Magic’ visual style with its contrasting elements, such as the black strap and texture-heavy dial with…

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08.02.2017

INTRODUCING: Bell & Ross meets brutalism with the BR 03-92 Horolum

Bell & Ross’s latest take on its classic square draws inspiration not just from aviation, but also – far less predictably – from the realms of art and architecture. The BR 03-92 Horulum is a monochrome monolith of a watch, a 42mm bead-blasted case with matching sandwich dial and complementary pale green C3 Superluminova hands and markings. On this occasion, the aeronautical tie-in isn’t quite what you might expect. It’s not a tribute to the latest generation strike fighter or specialised avionics instrumentation. No, Bell & Ross has gone for something far more down-to-earth this time around: the humble tarmac. The matt grey colour is…

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07.02.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 of Tudor’s most important technical achievements (and a couple of Basel 2017 predictions for good measure)

Editor’s Note: Baselworld 2017 is just around the corner, which means our overactive imaginations have kicked into hyperdrive, imagining what new forms of wrist candy the brands will be dropping on us. At the forefront of our speculations are Tudor, who always play their cards close to their chest when it comes to new releases – which only makes us speculate harder. Currently our hot tips include a ‘right handed’ version of the Pelagos LHD (pretty likely), a bronze Black Bay in a new colourway (somewhat likely) and a Pelagos dive alarm (unlikely – but how awesome would it be). Of course, we could be…

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06.02.2017

HANDS-ON: Bulgari adds a touch of danger to the Octo Ultranero

Bulgari has unveiled some of its latest collection in advance of Baselworld, and we were lucky enough to get our hands on a few key pieces. One model that particularly took our fancy was this crimson and black take on the Octo Ultranero. The changes on this latest version of the Octo are purely cosmetic – it’s still a 41mm black DLC-treated steel case rated to 100m, powered by Bulgari’s in-house BVL 193, mounted on sporty black rubber strap – but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a different story to tell. The dial is black lacquer, polished to a gloss black finish.…

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05.02.2017

MY WATCH STORY: David’s Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Editor’s note: One morning at work, around 9:20am, I looked up from my desk and saw a face peering through the front door. This isn’t so unusual; our office has the sort of shop front that makes us look like we might be a retail space – we field a few of these queries a week. So when the face opened the door, and walked in, I certainly didn’t expect it to say, “Is this Time+Tide?” Turns out David works a few doors down the road, and is a big fan of our work (thanks for that), and recognised our…

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03.02.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 3rd February, 2017

Well, we’ve definitely come down from the post-SIHH high. The lights seem somehow less dazzling (probably because it’s not being refracted through thousands of diamonds) and the mood is less giddy (probably because we’re no longer consuming a magnum of Champagne a day). Whatever the reasons, reality is well and truly back, and we’re not sure we like it but maybe things will pick up after a sneaky afternoon G&T. Chin chin! What happened The FedExpress won the Australian Open, proving (in our eyes, at least) the staying power of Rolex over the flash of Nadal’s Richard Mille. And while…

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02.02.2017

NEWS: Rolex to sponsor the Oscars – and what this means

Rolex has announced it’s now the official sponsor of the 89th Academy Awards, to be broadcast live (US time) on Sunday, February 26, and around the globe. When it comes to sponsorship deals, Rolex doesn’t tend to mess around, so it makes sense that the Big Crown – already worn by some of the silver screens most celebrated icons, and with a long history of behind-the-scenes involvement in the industry – has partnered with Hollywood’s premier event. Given the brand is already so prominent on the red carpet (we see you Seacrest), what does Rolex’s attendance mean to those lucky enough…

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02.02.2017

LIST: 7 of the toughest watches – the new breed

Back in days of yore (AKA 2015), we rounded up nine of the biggest, baddest, most unbreakable timepieces we could find, and created the most fierce gang of watches the world had ever seen. Much like Dolph and JCVD, those guys are still the OG toughies, but in the subsequent years an entirely new generation of invincibles has risen through the ranks. So, without further ado, meet the new breed. Just don’t look them in the eye. Bremont MBII – White Most pilots watches haven’t been built to handle the stresses that come from being shot out of a moving fighter…

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01.02.2017

VIDEO: “My dad loved shady deals” – Matthew McConaughey and his father’s fake Rolex

Turns out Matthew McConaughey isn’t just a superb actor, he’s also a mighty fine storyteller. We’re not sure if it’s the intense eyes, the Texan drawl or the overwhelming sense that he has lived life to the fullest. Whatever the reason, this Screen Test video for W Magazine definitely proves the man can spin a mean tale. Ostensibly, McConaughey is talking about the inspiration for his character Kenny Wells in Gold – an ’80s businessman with a sketchy plan – and even sketchier haircut. Apparently, McConaughey’s portrayal of Wells is an impression of his own father, a man who would…

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31.01.2017

HANDS-ON: the Metro neomatik Champagner – a new look for Nomos

For many years, the Nomos recipe for watchmaking success was straightforward: take clean-yet-quirky dial details with a few dashes of colour, set this against a neutral black or white backdrop and wrap the whole thing into a steel case. Not the most groundbreaking approach, but it’s certainly been effective in helping Nomos – once the definition of ‘a watch lover’s watch brand’ – grow in popularity to the point where it’s now an increasingly important player. Of course, with growth comes the need to evolve and innovate. And so, in the past few years Nomos has been busy on both fronts, developing…

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30.01.2017

HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver lives up to its name

Longines was making stellar heritage reissues well before it was cool. Case in point is the stylish ’60s-inspired Legend Diver, first released way back in 2007. And while it’s become de rigueur for most major brands to release one or two retro pieces a year, the Longines Legend Diver (LLD) pioneered the reissue genre, and still holds its own, thanks to a well-balanced trifecta of timeless good looks, clear vintage style and cracking value. First off, let’s tackle the style. The internal rotating bezel and twin crowns of the Legend draw their inspiration from a type of dive watch that was popular…

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27.01.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 27th January 2017 – the celebration edition

Australia Day yesterday, Chinese New Year tomorrow – so much partying to be had. But you know what we’re celebrating here in the T+T office? Overcoming jet lag. Seriously, today is the first day this week we’ve managed to maintain concisousness at four in the afternoon. Not sure if it’s wise, but we think that’s something to drink to. Kung Hei Fat Choi Australia! What happened Insta-royalty WatchAnish unveiled this season’s must have horological lifestyle accessory – Rolex-inspired sunnies that are “a fusion between watches and watching.” Apparently. All we really want to know is: do the bezels rotate? In…

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26.01.2017

HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel – is it a steal?

Let’s get this out of the way early on. Does the Girard-Perregaux Laureato share some visual similarities with other well-known luxury steel sports watches? Sure, but we can easily think of half a dozen watches that fit that particular bill. AP and Patek don’t have a monopoly on ’70s design. And make no mistake, the Laureato is very much a ’70s design. In fact, as far as watch designs go, it’s got a great backstory. The first Laureato, released in 1975, was a quartz, arriving as it did six years after the invention of the quartz wristwatches. Not only that, it was…

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25.01.2017

HANDS-ON: What a difference a dial makes – the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar

The cool and elegant Vacheron Constantin booth at SIHH was packed with highly complicated pieces (including the most complicated piece), and their top-line SIHH releases were a mass of brain-bending masterpieces, heavy on the sonneries, sidereal time and celestial maps. But amid all this mechanical splendour I found myself coming back to a simpler – but by no means simple – option: the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar, in a pink gold case with a new, slate grey dial. The colour combination is all that’s changed, but sometimes a fresh new look is all you need to fall in love all over again…

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24.01.2017

HANDS-ON: Confident refinement – the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Grand Feu

Ulysse Nardin pulled out all the stops for its first SIHH showing. In a fair charactered by conservative product releases, the Le Locle-based manufacturer presented a strong line-up of novelties, with a strong nautical theme, highlights including the new regatta timer, the technically impressive Marine Grand Deck, as well as this watch – the Classico Manufacture Grand Feu. This very traditional timepiece is jam-packed with smart details and offered at a highly competitive price. At 40mm across, the round steel case is hard to dislike, with its wide polished bezel, slightly clawed lugs set into the case middle and a crown that’s simple,…

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23.01.2017

HANDS-ON: A little bit of bronze goes a long way – the Montblanc 1858 Automatic

This year sees Montblanc introduce bronze into its watch collections for the very first time – and we have to say they’ve done it in an unusual and (as is typical for the brand) very smart way. With the exception of the high-end Villeret piece, Montblanc has avoided releasing full bronze-cased watches, instead employing the distinctive alloy in a much more tactical manner. In the case of the latest version of the 1858 Automatic, bronze is used on the bezel and crown, leaving the rest of the 44mm body in steel. Besides offering a very different take on two-tone, this approach is…

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20.01.2017

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date offers the complete package

For many consumers and manufacturers, now is not the time for extravagant, outlandish watches. That’s not to say SIHH doesn’t have its fair share of outlandish, extravagant and (it must be said) amazing timepieces – but they’re very much a niche proposition. The vast majority of real-world buyers are after something simpler and in a soft and uncertain economy the versatile round steel watch, free of gimmick and full of quality is an appealing option. Happily, this year SIHH is delivering quite a few watches that fit this bill. For me, one of the best is the revivified Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control collection.…

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20.01.2017

HANDS-ON: The sporty new Baume & Mercier Clifton Club

This year’s SIHH sees Baume & Mercier release a new, sportier take on the Clifton – the Clifton Club. This collection of robust, three-handed timepieces is made for ‘gentle sportsmen’ – which, if I’m interpreting the PR video full of people on boards (surf and skate) and bikes (mountain and motorised) means it’s a sporty go-anywhere-do-anything watch that would still fit quite neatly into your daily life. Presented in a range of dial and strap options, at its core this collection is a 42mm steel case, with a diver’s bezel and legible dial design, applied indices, a bold ‘Phi’ logo at 12…

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19.01.2017

HANDS-ON: 6 decades on and still going strong – the Piaget Altiplano 60th anniversary

Though Piaget has made a lot of noise in the past 12 months with the sporty steel Polo S, the undeniable heart of the collection is the ultra-slim and ultra-sexy Altiplano. Born in 1957 and named for the flat South American high plains, the Altiplano and the legendary caliber 9P that powered it, have become synonymous with thin. This year marks the collection’s 60th anniversary, and to celebrate Piaget has released two limited editions in white gold that speak to the model’s rich heritage. Today we’re looking at the larger 43mm automatic version, though there’s also a manually wound 38mm option.…

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19.01.2017

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The Da Vinci Automatic shows the gentler side of IWC

For years IWC has staked its claim as being one of the biggest, baddest and most masculine of the major Swiss brands. Recently though, we’ve sensed a change in the wind. In 2014 they released the delicate Portofino, and last year their more petite pilot had women firmly in its sights. That’s set to continue for 2017, with the latest evolution of the historic Da Vinci collection very much conceived with the female wrist in mind. The core of the collection is a range of eight 36mm references, three with moonphase complications. These models with their smaller size, optional diamonds and numerous colourful straps…

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18.01.2017

HANDS-ON: The Return of the Bronzo – Panerai introduces blue-dialled Luminor Submersible PAM 00671

This year it appears that the Submersible collection is a major focus for Panerai, with the brand releasing a veritable pack of new models in all manner of materials and sizes. But there’s one watch above all else that has inflamed the passions of the Paneristi, and that’s the PAM 00671 – AKA the Blue Bronzo. For anyone not familiar with the legend of the Bronzo, a little backstory. In 2011 Panerai released the PAM 00382, a green-dialled Luminor Submersible cased in bronze, limited to 1000 pieces, though we suspect they wouldn’t have had too much trouble selling 10 times that number. While it wasn’t…

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18.01.2017

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The restrained beauty of the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat

One of the standout watches of last year was the Drive de Cartier. The collection impressed with its assured case shape – a pleasing blend of robustness and classicism that, for many, epitomised what Cartier is all about. Well, the Extra Flat takes things a few steps further, removing any and all extraneous elements from the Drive and making it even more sublime. What do we mean? For starters the watch is, well, flat. At 6.6mm thick it’s some 40 per cent more slender than the regular automatic Drive – a feat achieved largely thanks to the manually wound caliber…

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17.01.2017

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Montblanc channels the spirit of racing with the Timewalker Chronograph Automatic

Walking into Montblanc’s revamped SIHH booth, it didn’t take long to work out what the overarching theme of 2017 would be. If the deconstructed racing chronograph suspended from the ceiling wasn’t enough of a clue, the booth staff in stark white racing firesuits certainly gave the game away. Montblanc’s off to the races, and in pole position is an aggressively updated Timewalker. The Timewalker is one of Montblanc’s most successful ranges and, over the years, the distinctive Arabic numerals, modern hand design and sculptural, cut-away lugs have become emblematic for the brand. Recently though, the pioneering model has been somewhat…

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13.01.2017

LIST: 7 shocking rumours ahead of SIHH 2017

On Monday morning, the most unpronounceable fair of them all, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie – mercifully reduced 100 per cent of the time to ‘SIHH’ – will open its doors in Geneva. But you don’t need to wait until then to get the lowdown on the major scoops and scandals. Thanks to our never-fail combination of crystal ball + global network of industry insiders, informants and assorted street urchins we’ve compiled seven of the most jaw-dropping rumours doing the rounds in the days before SIHH 2017.* Read on… if you dare. Panerai and H. Moser & Cie join forces to…

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13.01.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 13th January, 2017 – the future edition

Welcome to the first Wind Down of 2017! And, as much as the last posts of 2016 were all about looking back at the year that was, this one sees us gazing into the future, attempting to part the fog and get a clearer picture of what the year ahead holds. To be honest though, our view will be far clearer by next week, as much of the team is jetting off to SIHH tomorrow, where we’ll quickly get a much better sense of where the wider industry is at. Consider that fair warning: there will be a veritable barrage of new models hitting…

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12.01.2017

INTRODUCING: Montblanc pioneers refined patina with the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter in bronze

At this stage in the game, bronze watches aren’t anything new; Panerai, Oris and Tudor have all played a role in pushing the patina-friendly metal mainstream. But until now, bronze has been the playground of tool-like dive watches, serious timepieces licked by salt and spray until a fine verdigris of adventure forms on the rugged case. Well, the latest wonder from Montblanc’s Villeret collection is set to challenge our perceptions of what this ancient metal means to watches. Far from a rough-and-ready diver, the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter is a superbly refined monopusher chronograph, dripping in old-world charm, replete with historic…

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11.01.2017

INTRODUCING: Cartier proves it can handle the heat with the Ronde Louis Cartier XL Flamed Gold

Cartier never fail to deliver the goods when it comes to their SIHH collection – historically offering a large range of new goodies with everything from consumer-friendly steel all the way up to fabulous, one-of-a-kind jewelled masterpieces. And while we’ll have to wait a few more days to see what’s in store for 2017, this early release already has us intrigued. This limited edition of 30 uses the Ronde Louis Cartier XL as a starting point – a very traditional white gold canvas, framed prettily with a bezel of baguette-cut diamonds. But it’s the dial where the magic happens. Cartier…

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10.01.2017

HANDS-ON: Blue heaven – the Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509), plus pics of EVERY new 2016 Daytona

Two thousand and sixteen will surely go down in the annals of watch-lore as the year of the Daytona. Not only did Rolex finally update their stainless steel icon, but they also unveiled two new precious metal versions. We’ve already looked at the oh-so-shiny green and yellow gold version, and today we hold in our hands the slightly more understated white gold option. The main change here is, of course, the dial. The iridescent blue starburst is called, somewhat unimaginatively, ‘blue’ by Rolex. We were hoping for something more romantic, like ‘ocean depths’ or ‘arctic night’. Regardless of what you call…

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02.01.2017

TEAM PICK: Felix Scholz’s favourite stories of 2016

Of all the (many) lists of I’ve put together this year, this is without doubt, the hardest. So many great stories had to be left on the cutting room floor; reviews I really enjoyed writing, photos that brought a tear to my eye, some really fun creative stuff and, of course, Andy Green’s on-screen debut. But, sadly, the cuts had to be made. So here they are, my favourite stories of 2016. Just don’t ask me tomorrow as they’ll probably have changed 🙂 IN-DEPTH: We fight over the new grey-dialled Slim d’Hermès BY: Felix Scholz and Ceri David PUBLISHED: August “There’s a few…

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31.12.2016

YEAR IN REVIEW 2016: Letter from the Editor

In the last few years, storm clouds have formed over the Helvetic Republic, where, for years, there has been nothing but blue sky and crisp alpine air. First they were mere zephyrs, barely rippling the surface of our collective consciousness, hardly worthy of mention in those glorious, post-GFC days. More recently we’ve noticed an increasing number of these squalls, and exchanged worried glances with our fellow travellers, but tacitly agreeing to collectively write them off as temporary aberrations due to external factors like currency fluctuation or political instability. But now there’s no ignoring it. The gale is blowing hard, and all around us the watch…

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30.12.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 30th December, 2016 – the gone fishin’ edition

This is going to be the shortest Wind Down in Time+Tide history. See the scenic vista above? That’s us. We’re in our happy place, enjoying some well deserved time off. We hope you’ve had a great 2016, and have a safe and happy New Year. In the meantime, enjoy our finely tuned holiday programming, and we’ll all be back on deck just in time for the SIHH 2017! See you there.

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30.12.2016

TOP POSTS OF 2016: Number 1 – Is it ever OK to wear a fake watch?

Editor’s Note: And the top story of 2016 is…*drumroll*… Fakewatchbusta’s guest post on whether it’s ever acceptable to wear a knock-off timepiece. This story, written by the Batman of watch busting was ‘Yuuuge’, to borrow from the lexicon of President-elect Trump. It’s full of drama, sass and humour. Kind of like Downton Abbey. Fun fact: it’s inspired – like so many of the best things in life – by Robert Downey Jr.  I am the person behind the @fakewatchbusta account on Instagram and I was kind of shocked when I got the assignment of writing on this topic. It’s like asking Superman if it’s…

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29.12.2016

TOP POSTS OF 2016: Number 2 – Greg Norman’s watch story

Editor’s Note: The internet is a weird and wonderful place, where the normal rules of logic often don’t apply. Case in point, the fact this short interview with Australian champion golfer (and de facto diplomat) Greg Norman was our second-most-read story this year. Seems there’s a lot of love out there for the Great White Shark.  How many watches do you own? Well, I’m a very lucky guy. I sound bad, but I have a lot of watches. It’s the only thing a man can really wear. A man can’t really wear earrings, or necklaces or bracelets. Well, he can if…

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28.12.2016

TOP POSTS OF 2016: Number 3 – How to buy a watch when you’re drunk

Editor’s Note: It’s both unsurprising and disturbing that our cautionary guide to buying watches while on the sauce has been so popular this year. Equal parts fun and fact, with a dash of self-reflection, the resulting story is a biting brew with woody undertones and a kick in the tail. Enjoy responsibly.    We’re pretty sure this doesn’t need to be said, but let’s say it anyway. Don’t buy watches when you’re drunk. Nothing good can come from it. Seriously. Nothing. You’ll wake up hungover, surrounded with bottles of Dom/Chivas/Pabst (depending on budget and taste), considerably poorer and with a…

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27.12.2016

TOP POSTS OF 2016: Number 4 – The Seiko Presage Chronograph

Editor’s Note: Seiko straight-up knocked it out of the park with this watch, a massive success that blends the Japanese brand’s legendary high quality and even higher value with a more European design approach. It’s the perfect centrepiece for the globally launched Presage collection, and clearly a massive favourite with you guys, as it was our fourth most-popular story this year. While much attention has been paid to the latest Grand Seiko offerings, as well as their ultra-cool Prospex Marinemaster GPS-Solar Dual Time, we can safely argue that the limited edition Presage chronographs are their finest under-the-radar offerings of 2016. Seiko…

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26.12.2016

TOP POSTS OF 2016: Number 5 – 6 reasons I didn’t sell my Panerai

Editor’s Note: Truth, as they say, is stranger than fiction. And, as it turns out, the truth also makes for a really good read, so it makes sense that Andrew’s story of sky-high sales has been one of our most popular articles this year. It’s got everything: shady characters, high drama and, at its heart, the love between and a man and his watch.   This is a true story about a man who offered me $10,000 cash for my stock-standard Panerai PAM 111 in Business Class. It even had a factory strap. We’d been talking, chit-chatting through the pre-flight champagnes, then…

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25.12.2016

TOP POSTS OF 2016: Number 6 – The Rolex Daytona video review

Editor’s Note: The Daytona had to make this list. It has, hands-down, been the most hyped/discussed/desired watch of 2016 – and we caught a bit of a lucky break at Baselworld, managing to post the first hands-on video review. Of course, we spent some quality time with it later in the year, but that’s a different story.  This is the one you’ve been waiting for. Steel Daytona. Cerachrom bezel. Drop the mic, cue the applause. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona – reference 116500 to its friends – is a watch that lovers of the Big Crown have been clamouring…

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23.12.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 23rd December 2016 – the Christmas edition

I’m writing this at 12:35 on the last working day of 2016. And yes, I have a tin of Melbourne Bitter in front of me at my desk. So yeah, I’m feeling pretty good right now. Oh, and the office internet just died (hotspot FTW), so we’re taking this as a sign/Christmas Miracle that we need to leave the office stat. But before we lock up one last time for 2016 there’s some business that needs taking care of – the most festive Wind Down of the year! What really mattered A little while ago we (finally) got on the whole…

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22.12.2016

HANDS-ON: Summer stunner – the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300m Calibre 5 Titanium

It might be stating the obvious, but this Aquaracer doesn’t have a tourbillon or a modular case construction. Nor is it a smart watch, or a reissue of a ’70s watchmaking icon. This is a plain old ‘new watch’ from a well known family. No bells, no whistles, just an absolute winner of a watch. On paper it’s a 43mm titanium-cased diver with a matt black finish thanks to the titanium carbide treatment and a matching black ceramic bezel, powered by a Sellita movement, and rated to 300m. The dial has distinctive horizontal stripes, reminiscent of the ‘garage door’ look popularised by Patek’s Nautilus.…

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21.12.2016

MY WEEK WITH: The Tudor Black Bay 36 – by Kristoffer Paulsen

Let us start off by saying that if we’d known just how busy Melbourne-based photographer Kristoffer Paulsen was when we arranged to lend him the Black Bay 36, we’d have said, “How about we raincheck this project?” Not only is Kris under the pump with his commercial work (there’s a good chance you’ve drooled over his pictures of food at some point), he’s also exhibiting at Tailfeather Concept Store and dealing with the end of the year like the rest of us. In addition, he’s also just bought a house (well done!) and got married (congratulations!). Let the boy have a lie…

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20.12.2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 20 – The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T Tourbillon

Ah, the tourbillon! You should be so lucky to find one under your tree come Sunday morning. Dogma dictates that this little whirlwind is the holy grail of horology, created by only the most prestigious, exclusive and generally snooty brands in existence. Well, much like a little bit like Martin Luther nailing his 95 theses to the Wittenberg chapel door, Jean-Claude Biver’s refreshed TAG Heuer has released the Heuer-02T, a much more accessible take on the complication which goes a long way to democratising this once rarefied peak of high horology. And while this watch might not have quite the same impact on the world…

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20.12.2016

INSIGHT: What is the updated Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter?

Since 1951, nearly every watch leaving Rolex’s Geneva facility has been a certified Chronometer, and from 1957 onwards, Rolex has been using the term ‘Superlative’ on their dials to describe that their watches don’t just meet Chronometer standards, but exceed them. Design purists might bemoan the resulting text-heavy dials that declare an Oyster to be ‘Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified’, but Rolex’s nigh-unimpeachable reputation for quality and accuracy has a lot invested in these words. In fact, in late 2015, the brand quietly updated their Superlative Chronometer Standards to make them even more stringent. Design purists might bemoan the resulting text-heavy dials that…

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19.12.2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 19 – The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Rolesor

If your idea of Christmas is one where festive = indulgence, the new Yacht-Master 40 in Rolesor with its delicious chocolate dial should make it to the top of your list. The good news is that this is one decadent treat you won’t need to give up in January. Who should you buy this for: The posh sailor in your life – sweet-tooth optional. What’s the damage: Almost $18k Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor (ref. 116621) Australian pricing The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor, reference 116621, $17,800

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19.12.2016

HANDS-ON: Franck Muller gets disruptive with the Vanguard Chronograph Camouflage

If you want to get technical (and at T+T we always do), camouflage is a combination of patterns, colours and materials that serves to conceal an object and help it blend in with its surroundings. In nature, think leopards and tigers. In more man-made contexts, camouflage is the domain of the military, where it’s often given the boring-yet-descriptive name of ‘disruptive pattern material’ – the amorphous blobs and swirling shapes of modern camo serving to obscure the shape of the soldier or vehicle against its environment. If we only used this set of criteria, the Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph Camouflage…

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17.12.2016

INTERVIEW: Baume & Mercier’s Alexandre Peraldi on the past and present of the Clifton

We’ve spent a fair amount of digital ink this week talking about Baume & Mercier’s Clifton collection, and how it’s such a neat link to the Geneva-based brand’s heritage. So we thought it was only appropriate to explore this history, and how they’ve honoured it, in a little more detail. And who better to explore it with than Alexandre Peraldi, Baume & Mercier’s Design and Product Director. Time+Tide: Looking at the watch that inspires today’s Clifton collection, the resemblance is immediately obvious. Can you tell us what elements you kept, and what you changed? Alexandre Peraldi: Of course, we tried…

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16.12.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 16th December, 2016 – the milestone edition

The first post on Time+Tide went live on the 20th of March, 2014, and in the subsequent 33 months we’ve had a blast publishing news, reviews and all the latest and greatest from the world of watches. We’re excited to announce that this edition of the Wind Down marks a significant milestone – it’s our 1000th post! Cue champagne, doves and fireworks! Though not all at once, as that sounds like a serious OH&S/animal cruelty issue. Thanks to everyone who’s supported us over the last 1000, we couldn’t have done it without you! I suspect it won’t take us quite as long…

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16.12.2016

HANDS-ON: The Swatch Sistem51 Irony – perfect for the Christmas stocking

Back in 2014, Swatch made waves with the original Sistem51, an innovative and affordable robot-assembled automatic watch. Much like the original Swatch, the Sistem51 was hailed as revolutionary, and touted as radically democratising the Swiss mechanical. While the sub-$200 timepiece was never going to threaten Omega’s market share (for example), it nonetheless featured some impressive technical features – like the single central screw holding the whole affair together, the anti-magnetic construction and 90 hours of power reserve. The initial Sistem51 came in the distinctive jellybean style case of the classic Swatch. Plastic, and fantastic. Earlier this year the Sistem51 got an…

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15.12.2016

HANDS-ON: An exercise in harmony and contrast – the Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey in King Gold

If you look at watches on a regular basis (we’re guessing you do), it’s easy to get caught up in the cycle of ever-escalating novelties that defines the industry – because let’s forget, for all the talk of savoir-faire and timelessness, this is an industry. Don’t get me wrong, I love seeing what creativity and innovation can be packed in a 45mm case, but it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that a watch doesn’t need to have a brand new in-house movement, multiple tourbillons laid out in the shape of a swan or a dial crafted from the tears…

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14.12.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Complete Calendar Chronograph

The story in a second Baume & Mercier’s Clifton always had a pretty face. Well, that face just got complicated. It’s hardly a secret. We like the Clifton at Time+Tide. It’s a well-balanced collection that walks a fine line between dressy and casual, retro and modern, all while being very well priced. Typically, though, these Baume & Mercier watches tend towards the simpler complications – calendar or moonphase or date – that sort of thing. Today we’re looking at a Clifton that loads all these complications into one watch. In theory it sounds good – more bang for buck, right?…

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13.12.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Seiko Prospex ‘Turtle’ Diver

The story in a second: The Seiko Turtle offers a winning combination of heritage and quality at a supremely wallet-friendly price. Seiko dive watches have a massive – at times fanatical – following. It’s these guys and gals who are responsible for giving the brand’s cryptically coded watches their colourful nicknames – the Tuna, Monster, Sumo and, in this case, the Turtle. Officially, the Turtles we’re looking at here are known as SRP775 (black gilt dial on bracelet), SRP773 (blue dial on bracelet) and SRP777 (black dial on silicone). From now on, collectively, we’ll just call them Turtles. But wait, there’s more. These…

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12.12.2016

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Perpetual Calendar raises the bar

Baume & Mercier are known for their value-focused take on traditional watchmaking. Their Clifton and Capeland collections epitomise this approach, offering versatile style at a price that won’t break the bank. Of course, this means some concessions must be made: Cases are usually steel, and complications are of the more down-to-earth variety. But just because this sort of everyday mechanical is Baume & Mercier’s bread and butter doesn’t mean that they don’t have the capacity to hit the horological high gear on occasion. In fact, over the past few years Baume & Mercier has released a series of fairly stunning special edition…

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12.12.2016

INTRODUCING: Two new vintage-inspired Panerai Radiomir 3 Days – PAM00685 and PAM00687

As the days tick by and SIHH 2017 looms, the pre-releases are coming thick and fast. One of the brands that never fails to surprise (hey Carbotech) and delight (hey Firenze) us is Panerai, and this year it looks like they’re keeping to form with two new takes on the classic Radiomir case. Inspired by historic models from the ’30s, the most distinctive feature of these 47mm steel models is the twelve-sided bezel holding the plexiglass crystal (a nice vintage feature in and of itself) in place. This bezel, which bears more than a passing resemblance to Panerai’s typical casebacks,…

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11.12.2016

THE PARTY: An IWC microstory – Part 3. The finale!

Well, Christian and Evelyn have arrived at their destination and no, it’s not some Bond-villain-esque lair or a high-stakes diamond heist. Instead it’s something far more relatable and no-less stressful – a school reunion. Thankfully Christian’s fear of social inadequacy is unfounded, thanks in no small part to the Portugieser Hand-Wound on his wrist. We’ve had fun with this illustrated three-part microstory (here are parts one and two in case you missed), and we hope you’ve enjoyed reading it.

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09.12.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 9th December, 2016

In the flurry of pre-holiday/SIHH business, we managed to find time for a lightning trip to Sydney, to catch up with HYT CEO Gregory Dourde and see these incredible watches in the metal. And when we say lightning we mean it literally. As far as impressive events go, spending an evening on the 30m yacht Colette, surrounded by a spectacular lightning storm is hard to top – though the hydromechanical creations of Dourde and his team certainly gave mother nature a run for money. What happened We’re not the only people running an online Advent series. Nomos have been running one for…

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08.12.2016

INTRODUCING: IWC proves they aren’t afraid of the deep with the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Sharks’

In addition to both festive and jolly, ’tis also the season for SIHH pre-releases. Today’s contribution comes courtesy of IWC, who appear to be following up their Portugieser and Pilot years with a Da Vinci-focused line-up – which is what makes the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Sharks’ even more intriguing. The clue is in the name, but it’s the hammerhead sharks on the caseback that seal the deal. This monochrome take on the Aquatimer (we genuinely thought the picture was black and white when we first saw it) takes for its inspiration the cool grey colour of these apex predators. IWC has…

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08.12.2016

MY WATCH STORY: Alan’s Oris Carl Brashear

A little while ago, we ran our annual reader survey, giving entrants the chance to walk away with an Oris timepiece – a choice between the limited edition bronze Carl Brashear Divers Sixty-Five and a Divers Sixty-Five in steel. The lucky winner was Alan from Sydney, who chose the mighty bronze Carl Brashear. (Interestingly enough, an Alan won in 2015 too, but they definitely aren’t the same Alan, and don’t feel that if your name isn’t Alan there’s no point entering our competitions. We love all Alans and non-Alans equally.) After spending the past few weeks weeping tears of sadness and regret…

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07.12.2016

THE PARTY: An IWC microstory – Part 2

Editor’s Note: In this, the second instalment of our IWC microstory, Christian and Evelyn don driving gear, load up the Mercedes (living the dream right there, folks) and race off to the mysterious party of the title. Where will it be? Does anyone else get the impression Christian isn’t exactly looking forward to it? And what watch is that on his wrist? You’ll have to wait until the final instalment for the answers for those first two questions, though the last is a little easier – he’s wearing a Portugieser Chronograph Classic. 

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06.12.2016

HANDS-ON: The Rolex Day-Date 40 with green dial – 6 decades on and still going strong

It’s no real surprise that Rolex – the world’s most reputable brand – is a class act. For me this was proven when I saw the beautiful new green-dialled Day-Date 40 on the first day of this year’s Baselworld fair. That class factor was cemented when I discovered the watch was available in stores on the very same day of its release. Not many brands could pull off a move that smooth. On the surface, this is a new variant of last year’s Day-Date 40 (a watch we’ve already covered in some depth) with a dial Rolex is calling ‘olive green’.…

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06.12.2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 6 – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII

Next up in our festive lineup is one of this year’s crowd favourites – the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII. This modestly-sized, understated watch goes to show that when you’ve got good design and an enviable pedigree, you don’t need bell and whistles (though that Santoni strap certainly adds to the lustre of the piece). Who should you buy this for? You don’t need to be a flyboy to appreciate the Mark XVIII’s good looks – this simple, clean timepiece looks good on any wrist. What’s the damage? Under 8k IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Australian pricing IWC Mark XVIII, $6100 on leather…

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05.12.2016

THE PARTY: An IWC microstory – Part 1

Editor’s Note: Welcome to ‘The Party’, a micro-trilogy that revolves around IWC’s Portugieser collection. And while this illustrated story is a little different from our typical fare of reviews and write-ups, in a way it’s exactly the sort of thing Time+Tide was started to do – to tell a story of watches, wearers and their journeys. The only difference here is that this story is fictional. And even though Christian, Evelyn and their gorgeous house might not exist in real life, that doesn’t mean we can’t dream – right?

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05.12.2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 5 – The Tudor Pelagos LHD

When Tudor took their technical diver, the mighty Pelagos, and transformed it into the Pelagos LHD, they created a late – and very worthy – entrant into all the ‘Top Watches of 2016’ lists. It was a nice little left hook that hit more than just the southpaw audience. Because, in addition to flipping it so that the lefties among us will appreciate it, they also gave it an oh-so-subtle vintage make over. The result is (almost) a completely different watch, and one that’s Ned Flanders approved. Who should you buy this for? That left-handed watch lover in your life has always been really…

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04.12.2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 4 – The Montblanc 1858 Manual Small Second

Today we peel back the hypothetical door on our digital advent calendar (though we’re giving away some real stuff too FYI) to reveal the deep blue dial of the Montblanc 1858 Small Second. We’re big fans of the 1858 in general, as it hits just the right balance between everyday wearability and heritage style. The smart pricing doesn’t hurt, either. Who should you buy this for? If there’s someone in your life whose breast pocket is lined with Montblanc writing instruments, but who’s lacking in the wrist department, this is the perfect way to get them in the game. What’s the damage? A…

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03.12.2016

PHOTO REPORT: We compare the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms to the Bathyscaphe Ocean Commitment II

It’s one of the original (if not THE original) dive watches – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. And since its introduction in 1953, it has proved to be a rugged and versatile design. Today though, the two main pillars of the Fifty Fathoms collection are the regular version, styled after that 1953 original, and the Bathyscaphe, which takes its look from the simpler, civilian version of the watch, first released in the ’60s. Given that this week has been all about the latest (and greatest) addition to the Bathyscaphe family on Time+Tide, we thought it’d be a good idea to compare this…

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03.12.2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 3 – The Tudor Black Bay 36

*Singing* On the third day of Christmas, my true love gave to me, a Tudor Black Baaaaay 36! *stops singing* Sorry about that people, but we’re a little bit excited. And looking at this watch, can you blame us? Sure, it might be a little fella at 36mm across, but he’s got the polish (on the bezel and glossy dial, especially) to pull it off. Who should you buy this for? This is a great all-rounder that looks the business on any number of wrists, so we suggest grabbing it for your S.O. and then you can ‘borrow’ it on occasion. What’s…

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02.12.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 2nd December, 2016 – the rumours edition

No, we’re not dedicating this Wind Down to Stevie Nicks and her choice of timepieces (though that would be amazing). No, this week we’re talking conspiracy theories and scuttlebutt. So break out the tin foil hat and the tinnies, it’s time for the most scurrilous Wind Down yet. But before we begin, we can confirm the rumours that Time+Tide is on YouTube are wholly true – please join us there! Videos dropping daily in December, and very often in the New Year. That is how we do. What happened? The rumour: Breitling is for sale A few days ago Bloomberg…

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02.12.2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 2 – The Longines Military COSD

Next up in our Christmas Advent(ure) Calendar is the rough and ready (but still polished to a mirror shine) Longines Military COSD, with a military-inspired dial and summer-appropriate NATO strap. The best thing about it though? It’s not so hardcore as to look out of place with a suit. If you really love this one, check out the full review and  don’t forget to enter our holiday giveaway. Who should you buy this for? Even though it has ‘military’ in the name, you don’t have to be an armchair general to appreciate this watch (though Uncle Clive would love it). The sharp styling and…

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01.12.2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 1 – the Tissot Heritage 1936

Deck the halls and dangle that tinsel, for the festive season is upon us once more. Join us in counting down the days until Christmas, with Time+Tide’s very own advent calendar. While there’s no chocolate on offer (we’re actually giving away something much better), what we do have is a series of our bitesize ‘Gone in 60 Seconds’ video reviews – kicking off today with the Tissot Heritage 1936. If you thought anything in the watch world inspired by ye olde world equals small, this manually wound 45mm is here to challenge preconceptions. Who should you buy this for?  Maybe yourself. If you’re a ‘big watch guy’…

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01.12.2016

INSIGHT: The most impressive quartz watch in the world and 3 other surprising things I learned about Seiko in Japan

I’ve always liked Seiko. One of the first watches I ever bought was a Black Monster, followed by an ever-rotating roster of rock-solid SKX divers as well as the odd vintage piece including an original Turtle, a 6139 ‘Pogue’ chronograph (sadly missed) and not one but two 4006-6031 Bell-Matics (neither of which are currently running, but that’s a different story). So when Seiko Australia invited me to tour the company’s Japanese production facilities (wearing an Astron), I jumped at the chance. It’s fair to say I had some pretty solid preconceptions about what I’d experience. I was super-pumped to see the…

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30.11.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ocean Commitment II

The story in a second Blancpain has upped the ante on last year’s excellent Ocean Commitment watch, with a second – even bluer – limited edition. These days it’s not unique for a watch brand to have a corporate social responsibility program, usually tied in with a limited edition product. Few, however, do it with the level of integrity and (dare we say it) commitment as Blancpain’s work in marine conservation and research programs. Though the Ocean Commitment program itself is comparatively young, Blancpain has donated a total of roughly seven million Euro over the past seven years. But beyond…

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29.11.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Heritage Chronométrie Annual Calendar Chronograph proves that the secret to Montblanc’s success is complicated

The story in a second: Montblanc’s 2016 Heritage Chronométrie highlight is a complicated number, packed with value. Jerome Lambert descended, whirlwind-like, on Montblanc in 2013. His presence was felt immediately, as the global luxury giant began turning out increasingly impressive timepieces, many with a complicated, heritage bent. Then, as suddenly as he had arrived he was gone, elevated to the rank of Richemont Group Head of Operations in a recent reshuffle. And while he may be running out the clock as Montblanc CEO (replaced by former Head of Sales Nicolas Baretzki), his short tenure will leave a long legacy – a revitalised…

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28.11.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Blancpain makes a splash with the Ocean Commitment II

There are a few things everyone in the Time+Tide office can get behind 100 per cent: coffee, classic ’70s rock and blue watches. In fact, we spent a good portion of 2015 quietly losing it over how stunning Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe Ocean Commitment was, with its lustrous blue dial and grey ceramic case. So when we heard earlier this year that the brand would release a follow-up watch, we were honestly sceptical as to how it could be topped. As it turns out, all it took was for Blancpain to flip it. The dial is now a slate grey sunburst and the case…

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26.11.2016

HOW TO: Take the perfect wristshot

Editor’s Note: Some time ago, we ran a special edition of the Wind Down (as we are wont to do), which ran through the dos and don’ts of wristshots. Turns out this was actually a very useful and informative post, so we thought it was worth giving it some time in the ‘How To’ sun. So read on for the first steps in mastering the fine and subtle art of the perfect wristshot.  Every job has its quirks. Every industry has its niche skills. In watch journalism – or watch appreciation in general – perhaps one of the most crucial,…

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24.11.2016

NEWS: Jimmy Smits’ favourite watch brand is Nomos Glashütte, according to Brooklyn Nine-Nine

We’re big fans of German brand Nomos Glashütte here at Time+Tide, and we know there’s a lot of love for them out there in the wider watch world, too. What we didn’t know is that Jimmy Smits is into them – or rather that his character Mr Santiago is, in the most recent episode of Fox’s Brooklyn Nine-Nine. In a cameo that nicely references his NYPD Blue role, Smits plays the father of Amy, love interest to Jake Peralta (Andy Samberg), who shares his daughter’s obsessive love of detail and organisation. Jake, eager to impress his girlfriend’s dad, compiles an extensive dossier of…

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23.11.2016

HANDS-ON: Shades of grey – the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 with dark rhodium dial (ref. 116622)

This cool, calm and collected new Yacht-Master almost slipped past me. I was too busy falling in love (again) with the gold and chocolate Rolesor Yacht-Master, which was distracting me and dazzling my senses, but then out of the corner of my eye I spotted a flash of almost-iridescent blue, and my curiosity was piqued. I’m so glad it was, because this steel and platinum Yacht-Master with its dark rhodium dial and blue highlights is an absolute stunner, even though it’s a much more restrained affair than its Everose-embellished siblings (in both Rolesor and Oysterflex variants). This is partly down to…

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22.11.2016

LIST: Back to the future – 5 Westworld-ready pocket watches

Right now, there’s an internal Time+Tide email thread going around with the subject line Westworld. It’s a series of communications chronicling our obsession with HBO’s latest retro-futurist hit, mostly consisting of questions (and this awesome mash-up). What is the maze? Why is there a burnt church in desert? Why isn’t Evan Rachel Wood in each and every shot? What sort of visitor would you be? When is Tony Hopkins going to crack open a can of fava beans and go full Hannibal? Of course, the major speculative drift of our correspondence is about… drumroll… watches. You see, one of the major joys…

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21.11.2016

HANDS-ON: The stylish pilot – Breguet’s Type XXI 3817

Turns out that Breguet, not content with nailing the brief when it comes to dress watches and innovating left, right and centre are also quite the dab hand when it comes to pilot’s watches. And they’re no Johnny-come-latelies at the genre, either. In fact, in the early 20th century, Abraham Louis Breguet’s grandson – Louis Charles Breguet – made planes under the name of Breguet Aviation. There is no connection, however, between Louis Charles’ aeronautical business and the Type 20 chronograph that inspired the Type XXI 3817 that we’re looking at today. It’s important to note that Type 20 and 21 chronographs used by the French Air Force…

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18.11.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 18th November, 2016

It’s been a week of milestones, both minor and major. A Patek Philippe became the most expensive watch ever sold at auction (again), the 2016 GPHG awards were announced (well done to all the winners) and Andrew clocked up a significant birthday. All occasions to celebrate. Prost! What happened In what feels these days like a bi-annual update, we now have a new ‘most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction’, and yup, it’s another stainless steel Patek Philippe. The watch in question – one of only four reference 1518s ever made – sold in 13 minutes for the mind-boggling sum of $11,002,000…

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18.11.2016

HANDS ON: First look at the Tudor Pelagos LHD – live video, pics, price

Once again, Tudor has surprised and tempted us with a brand new release just before Christmas – the Tudor Pelagos LHD. On the whole it’s the same Pelagos we know and love, with just a few tweaks – but these small changes combine to show the watch in a completely new light. First of all, the case. It’s the same 42mm titanium case we’re used to, with one not-so-minor difference – the crown is on the left, a feature that gives the watch its left-hand drive sobriquet. The inspiration for this unusual configuration comes from the brand’s past. In the 1970s, the Tudor…

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17.11.2016

HANDS-ON: We did not expect the steel and gold Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph to be this awesome

If, at the start of 2016, you’d have told me my favourite Omega of the year would be a two-tone Speedmaster (yellow gold no less!) with a green bezel, I’d have enjoyed a good laugh at your expense. I like a Speedy as much as the next guy, but I like them in the straight-up classical format, a la NASA. Well, fast forward a few months and you’ll have to excuse me as I wipe egg off my face, because here it is, my pick of the Omega 2016 litter – the Speedmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer Moonphase Chronograph in steel and…

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16.11.2016

HANDS-ON: All aboard with the Longines Railroad

We’re not alone in our love of Longines heritage offerings – the classic designs and smart prices make them consistently instant hits among watch enthusiasts, and every year we get some new treasure from the brand’s seemingly endless archive. We’ve had dive watches, pilot’s watches, even trench watches – but we’ve never seen a train watch, until now… The American railroads ‘General Railroad Timepiece Standards’ specified that timekeeping equipment from then on must “be open faced…use plain Arabic numbers printed bold and black on a white dial, and have bold black hands…” The Longines Railroad takes its name and design from…

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14.11.2016

LIST: 5 moonphases to wear while you watch tonight’s supermoon

Tonight is a special night for Australian amateur astronomers, because when the sun goes down we will all see the moon like never before. What we’re talking about is a supermoon – and not just any supermoon. NASA has gone so far as to call it an ‘extra-supermoon’, as it’s 14 per cent brighter and 30 per cent bigger than a regular full moon. That’s because it’s closer to earth (a mere 356,509 km away) than it has been in 70 years, and it won’t be this big again until 2034. So, in the spirit of the supermoon we’ve put together five of…

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11.11.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 11th November, 2016 – the American greatness edition

Well, the unavoidable news this week is that Donald Trump is the President-elect of the United States – a surprise victory won on the back of a promise to ‘Make America Great Again’. Don’t worry – we won’t get all political on you. But we did feel this edition of the Wind Down was the perfect opportunity for a look at all that’s great about American watchmaking, past and present. And if you need a stiff drink to go with it, don’t let us stop you. In the nineteenth century, American watchmaking was on a par with the best the Swiss had…

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11.11.2016

LIST: The 15 winning watches of the 2016 GPHG

In the early hours of the Australian morning, the watch industry was celebrating its night of nights – the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) – more commonly known as the Oscars of watchmaking. Fifteen awards were given – along with a special jury prize for the George Daniels Educational Trust – adding up to a solid mix of safe bets and surprises. So without further ado, here are the best watches of 2016. “AIGUILLE D’OR” GRAND PRIX Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 Impressive name for an impressive watch. The Chopard-owned brand’s debut piece is distinctive and complex,…

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10.11.2016

IN-DEPTH: Tudor shows its age with the Black Bay Bronze

The story in a second Yet again, Tudor has delivered one of the most talked about watches of 2016. If you’d asked me in the early months of 2016 if the bronze trend had a future, I’d have said no. To all intents and purposes the craze, spearheaded by Panerai, was on the wane. Sure, the ancient-yet-innovative alloy had its charms, but it takes a certain type of person to mess around with sulphur and lemon juice, making their watch look like something salvaged from a shipwreck. I thought bronze would always be a niche case material, not a mainstream proposition.…

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10.11.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: The solid gold smart watch. Can TAG Heuer succeed where Apple failed?

Editor’s Note: A few weeks ago I received a surprising email. It was a press release from TAG Heuer, announcing an 18-carat rose gold version of their Connected Watch. I was surprised because this came just weeks after all mention of the much-hyped solid gold Apple Watch Edition silently disappeared from Apple’s site, replaced by the much more attainable ceramic version. It begs the question, can TAG Heuer succeed where the mighty Apple didn’t? And what does success look like here? Then again, I suspect TAG aren’t doing this for sales per se, but simply because they can. Either way, we felt it…

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08.11.2016

HANDS-ON: The most iconic Rolex gets an update – the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41

There are two main contenders for the title of ‘most recognisable watch in the world’, both of them made by Rolex. Naturally, the Submariner has a good shot at the title, but for me, the clear winner is the Datejust. First introduced in 1945, it includes one of the most useful and ubiquitous complications – a date window. Like many features we take for granted on a watch today, this date represented a Rolex first, in that rather than slowly transitioning over a few hours, the Datejust’s date jumped instantly at the stroke of midnight. Even though the model has been around for over…

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07.11.2016

VIDEO: Rodger Corser on acting, coming home and Tudor watches

I first noticed it for a split-second in Channel 9’s new show Doctor Doctor. Pause. Rewind. Yep, there was no mistaking the black bezel and dial on the wrist of Hugh Knight (the titular doctor) – definitely a Tudor Black Bay. I filed that knowledge away in the part of my brain dedicated to celebrity watch-spotting, not imagining for a minute that a few weeks later I’d be having a drink with Rodger Corser, in a tiny laneway bar, talking about that exact timepiece. Watches tell you a lot about a character, and a bad choice is immediately obvious. But…

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05.11.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Smoke and mirrors – the Hublot Big Bang All Black Sapphire

Ten years ago Hublot pioneered the black-on-black-on-black look in watches. Sure, it made it hard to read the time, but when your watch looked that cool who could care? They called it (appropriately enough) ‘All Black’ and this year they’ve released a number of special limited editions to celebrate. The standout is this not-so-stealthy Big Bang. Instead of PVD or black ceramic, Hublot has created a Dark Crystal Big Bang out of black sapphire, creating a blacked-out watch that’s surprisingly lively on the wrist, full of mirror-like reflections and smoky finishes. Just don’t expect it to fly under the radar.…

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04.11.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 4th November, 2016 – the British edition

Today’s wind down is a little bittersweet. Sweet because it’s an absolutely gorgeous day here in Melbourne, bitter because we have more than a light case of FOMO. Right now, despite the weather, we’d much rather be hanging out in rainy London with all the cool kids at Salon QP. But there’s no point getting all gloomy about it, instead we’re going to celebrate with the British edition of the Wind Down. What happened It’s the time of year when we start looking back over the year in watches, picking the winners and the worthy contenders. For most people, this taking stock is…

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04.11.2016

OPINION: We need more watches like the Seiko Presage

Cutting through the noise and sheer volume of watches released at Baselworld is no mean feat. Overwhelming attention is focused on a handful of models from a few brands, and often it takes weeks and months from some of the hidden gems to reveal themselves. Nevertheless, every year the chatter in the halls seems to amplify around a few key models. And this year the buzz was strongest around Rolex’s new Daytona (of course), Patek’s World Time, TAG Heuer’s Monza and Seiko’s Presage Chronograph. The first three are pretty safe bets, but the Seiko? No one  saw that awesomeness coming. Don’t get…

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03.11.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: See the world in colour with Montblanc’s 4810 Orbis Terrarum

When I was in high school we had to buy an atlas/geography textbook from a publisher called Heinemann. Don’t ask me why I remember this – it’s just one of the scores of useless trivia facts that are stuck in my head, while much more important information (such as reference numbers and calibre names) seem to constantly elude me. One of the things I liked most about this atlas were the different types of map on offer: Political, altitude, rainfall, temperature – Heinemann had them all. And this is what the new, brightly coloured dial of the 4810 Orbis Terrarum instantly reminded…

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02.11.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Seiko Presage SPB041J1- a lot of watch for $1500

The story in a second When it comes to value, it’s hard to beat Seiko, and this Presage is no exception. If you ask any watch lover worth their salt to describe Seiko in five words or less, we’re willing to bet you’ll hear a phrase that’s a variant of ‘great value!’ This is true from the brand’s more accessible offerings – such as their famously indestructible divers – all the way up to the Grand Seiko and Credor lines. The Presage collection is no different, but until now, the well priced, 100 per cent mechanical line was only available only…

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01.11.2016

VIDEO: World-famous tattoo guru Benjamin Laukis and his TAG Heuer Calibre 18 Telemeter

Tattoo artist Benjamin Laukis cuts a dashing figure. Impeccably dressed, impressively inked – people tend to notice when Laukis walks into a room. He’s also a gentleman in the truest sense of the word, and a watch collector of great integrity and taste. We caught up with Ben at his Northcote studio, The Black Mark, to find out about his passion for his art, and the powerful attraction he feels to the handmade over the mass-produced. Given all this, Laukis’ choice of watch is apt, the vintage lines of the TAG Heuer Calibre 18 Telemeter looks perfect on his unmistakeable…

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31.10.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Automatic for the people – the Seiko Presage SPB039J1 video review

At their packed Baselworld press conference Seiko announced that 2016 was to be the year of their middle-tier Presage collection. The lion’s share of attention has been on the truly excellent limited edition Presage Chronograph, but there’s a lot to love in the rest of the collection too. Presage honours the spirit of fine mechanical watchmaking that Seiko is well known for, but at a price point that’s far from prohibitive. Take for example the good looking three-hander that is the Seiko Presage SPB039J1 – not only do you get a quite handsome dress watch (with such a catchy name!), you…

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30.10.2016

VIDEO: Who wore it best? Tissot Heritage 1936 v Bridgeport Lepine Mechanical pocket watch

Last week Andrew and I took part in a somewhat unusual, and entirely self-imposed, challenge. Andrew, typically a wearer of more modern timepieces tried the 45mm Heritage 1936 on for size and I gave my wrists a break entirely to properly experience the Bridgeport pocket watch. We were both outside our comfort zones, full of thoughts, feelings and even emotions. Luckily Ash was on hand to capture our pre-work ruminations on video. Fair warning though, I get all philosophical, even going so far as to question the nature of time.

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28.10.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 27th October, 2016 – the smart watch / dumb phone edition

There has been terrifying talk in the Time+Tide office of the ever-dwindling amount of time until Christmas (nine Fridays, NINE FRIDAYS) and you can almost hear the luxury watch industry kick into high gear – parties are planned, last minute products launched, all in an attempt to earn a coveted spot under your tree (and then your wrist). But one story that keeps on giving, no matter the season, is the old battle of horology versus technology, and this week has delivered on both fronts. So, fix yourself a pre-December eggnog and settle in for the Friday Wind Down. Smart watches According to…

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28.10.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The Tissot Bridgeport Lepine, partying like it’s 1899

It’s 2016, so why would anyone wear a pocket watch? That’s the question I found myself asking this week as I took the Tissot Bridgeport Lepine for a test drive. And look, I’m not going to lie to you, it took more thought to integrate this 45mm little number into my life. But if you’re up for this sort of challenge, and I know plenty of you out there will dig the self-consciously anachronistic look of wearing a pocket watch, then the rewards are definitely there. It’s a great talking point and style statement. Plus, I love how it made checking…

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27.10.2016

VIDEO: The CEO of Ferrari Australasia drives into our office (literally) to talk Hublot and the 488 Spider

We’re no stranger to Hublot’s partnership with the Ferrari, and we’ve managed to get pretty close to the action over the years. We’ve worn the watches, checked out the pit lanes and talked about the design inspiration. But never, ever did we expect to have a Ferrari (much less the latest $600k 488 Spider) drive into our office. But that’s exactly what happened a few weeks ago when the CEO of Ferrari Australasia, Herbert Appleroth, popped into the office to show off his new whip and a brace of Hublot watches.  

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26.10.2016

IN-DEPTH: Out of the pocket and onto the wrist – the Tissot Heritage 1936

The story in a second One of Tissot’s best 2016 releases is basically a pocket watch for your wrist, and it’s awesome. These days, most people associate Tissot with their sporty PRS line and the clever T-Touch, but the brand was actually founded in 1853 and as such have an enviable back catalogue covering off practically all the classics. This year they’ve delved into the interwar period for inspiration, and cooked up the Heritage 1936, a wallet-friendly winner with tons of wrist presence. The case The case of the Heritage 1936 sees Tissot pulling off a very clever double act – they’ve managed to create a watch…

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26.10.2016

BREAKING: TAG Heuer release a tribute to Muhammad Ali – the Carrera Calibre 5 ‘Ring Master’

On the third of June this year, one of the greatest sportsmen of our times passed away at the age of 74. And though Muhammad Ali’s legacy encompassed more than boxing – his civil rights activism is particularly noteworthy – it’s his style, his personal swagger and success in the ring that will remain his greatest legacy. It’s a legacy that TAG Heuer, along with the Muhammad Ali Centre is celebrating in Gleason’s Gym, Brooklyn, where Ali trained. In tribute to the great man, TAG Heuer has created two versions of the Carrera Calibre 5 ‘Ring Master’ a regular steel…

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25.10.2016

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, now in black

One of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s finest releases for 2016 was also one of the easiest to miss. Firstly because it’s not a Reverso, secondly because it’s not really a ‘new’ release. We first saw the Master Ultra Thin (MUT) Perpetual Calendar back in 2013, but this year JLC treated this exceptionally stylish stainless steel version to a snazzy new black dial. Perpetual Calendars are enjoying something of a renaissance at the moment with ‘accessible’ offerings from Montblanc, Frederique Constant and now Baume & Mercier helping to popularise this complication combination. It’s important to note that accessible is a relative term, as all…

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24.10.2016

LIST: 5 things you (probably) didn’t know about 5 (very) special Seikos you can see in Sydney right now

If you’re in Australia and a fan of Seiko, we have good news; you are in luck. Until this Wednesday, the brand has some of their most exclusive and high-end pieces on display – we’ve picked out five of our favourites. So, if you already know all about the Micro Artists Studio and want to see their work up close, or if you only thought that Seiko made well-priced dive watches we’d highly recommend stopping by Seiko’s Sydney boutique and taking a closer look. Credor Tourbillon Fugaku The crowning jewel in Seiko’s 2016 collection is the Credor Tourbillon Fugaku. It’s…

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22.10.2016

LIST: 4 ways to wear the Clé de Cartier

It turns out the Chris Edwards from Oscar Hunt Tailors has something of a knack for finding the right threads to go with the right wristwear. Not only has he tailored a suit to perfectly match a watch, he’s also given us some solid advice on how to wear a gold watch with grace and style. So we decided to test Chris’s sartorial skills one more time, finding four distinct looks for four versions of a most distinctive watch – the Clé de Cartier. Clé de Cartier in pink gold Chris Edwards: Pink gold is rich, warm and luxurious on…

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21.10.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 21st October, 2016 – the mixed bag edition

Today’s Wind Down is, much like this week, a bit all over the shop. Though Time+Tide has momentarily ceased its globetrotting antics, that doesn’t mean we’ve been laying idle, so stay tuned. But in a week packed with a bold blue Bell & Ross and the curvaceous Clé we managed to find some gems out there, including the coolest cactus-themed jewellery we’ve seen in a long time (and trust us, you see a lot browsing Etsy). So, pour yourself a tequila and say hola to the Friday Wind Down. What happened? A little while ago, Petrolicious main man Ted Gushue…

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21.10.2016

HANDS-ON: Is the Bell & Ross BR 126 Aeronavale the best (and boldest) Vintage model yet?

Bell & Ross has never been afraid of colour. And their bold, highly graphical square instrument watches are a natural canvas for creative experimentation. The brand’s more traditional round watches are a little bit of a different story – inherently more conservative; B&R tend to play things safer with their Vintage collection. Which is why the Aeronavale range is such a big old bolt from the blue – and boy, did the risk pay off. While the form of the Vintage BR 126 Aeronavale (and indeed the simpler BR 123) is the same as regular versions, the execution is simply stunning. Bell…

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19.10.2016

IN-DEPTH: Bell & Ross think outside the square with the sharply styled BR 123 Aeronavale

The story in a second Bell & Ross ditch the tactical style of the flight deck in favour of the formality of the parade ground. Ever since I reviewed the surprisingly seductive beige dialled Vintage BR 123 way back in the early days of Time+Tide I’ve had a soft spot for Bell & Ross’s round watches. The Vintage line offers a solid platform for the design-oriented brand play with colour, materials and military codes. Don’t believe me? Look at the watch above, then compare it to the beige dialled version, and finally check out this blacked-out chrono. Same essential platform –…

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19.10.2016

VIDEO: WHY I LOVE MY WATCH with Ben Cooper, Head Chef of Chin Chin, featuring Hublot

The story of the watch ended up being bigger than the act of me having the watch… This is perhaps the best video proof we have so far of the fact that watches can take on a depth of personal meaning to a wearer that will literally bring tears to their eyes when they’re asked about it. Even if that wearer’s one of the most hardened tequila drinkers out there… A little while ago Ben Cooper, Executive Chef of Chin Chin, Kong, Baby and Hawker Hall (phew, that’s quite a gig)  invited us to his house for a stir-fry. There’s just no way…

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18.10.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Cartier Clé de Cartier in steel

The story in a second Cartier’s key collection of 2015 just became a whole lot more accessible.   Much fuss has been made over Cartier’s manly new Drive collection, and rightly so. But the Parisian powerhouse also released another excellent, and highly anticipated, men’s watch this year – the Clé de Cartier in steel. It’s no secret that we fell pretty hard for the Clé when we first met at SIHH 2015. The only potential spanner in the works? It was only available in pricey precious metals. Well, if you’re less about the shiny stuff and more about the stainless, you’re in luck.…

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17.10.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Dress blues – the Bell & Ross BR 126 Aeronavale video review

After their square instrument pieces, Bell & Ross has made quite an impression with their vintage collection – a range of more classically styled round pieces that often riff on the icons of aviation. The BR 126 Aeronavale is a little different. The handsome, gold-accented blue chronograph is directly inspired by the uniforms, rather than the planes, of the air arm of the French Navy – the Aeronavale. It’s also a watch that you need to see shimmering and flashing in real life to truly appreciate.

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15.10.2016

IN-DEPTH: Is this the next evolution of Hublot? The Big Bang Meca-10

The story in a second New movement + new look = new ball game? Hublot describe their Meccano-inspired Big Bang Meca-10 as a ‘transitional object’. It’s an interesting choice of phrase. You could take it literally and assume that Hublot are referring to the watch as a way for people who obsessed about Meccano and technical constructions when they were younger to move into some more grown up gadgets. Or you could interpret that it’s talking about a transitional object for Hublot the brand, and their design language. We are erring on the side of the latter. You see, we think the Big…

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14.10.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 14th October, 2016 – the winners edition

Today’s Wind Down is dedicated to all the winners out there. Maybe you found $2 on the street, maybe you’ve just got a positive attitude, or maybe, just maybe, you’re lucky enough to win a watch. So, take pride in your achievements (be they big or small), have a cold drink and take four minutes and 56 seconds out of your day to enjoy this slice of Swedish victory. What actually mattered Let’s cut to the chase. The lucky entrant in our 2016 Reader Survey is (we’re going to pull the Bandaid off quick here…) Alan from Sydney. Congratulations Alan! *Fireworks,…

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12.10.2016

HANDS-ON: Saxony at its most serious – the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down

Even though there’s no doubt that the darlings of A. Lange & Söhne’s lineup are the more contemporarily styled pieces like the Lange One and the Zeitwerk, there’s still a place for deeply traditional design the catalogue of Glashütte’s favourite son – and that’s the 1815 collection.   Named for the year of founder Ferdinand A. Lange’s birth, the 1815 family of watches takes as its inspiration early marine chronometres. First developed in the 18th Century, these ship-bound timepieces were extremely accurate, and a vital tool in navigation. And while the design isn’t what we’d associate with tool watches these…

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09.10.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Can Panerai ever be dressy? Watch our PAM 655 video review and judge for yourself.

Editor’s Note: In these uncertain times there’s a noticeable shift away from big, bold statement pieces, the sort of watches Panerai traditionally excel at. But that’s not to say the Italian brand can’t tap into its national reputation for style and do a cracking job on smaller pieces too, as this 42mm PAM 655 proves.  Panerai is very much a ‘what you see is what you get’ sort of brand, with an identity built around being the archetypal ‘tough guy’ watch. Which was why the PAM 655 surprised us. Sure, it’s still got the iconic cushion-shaped Radiomir case, but apart from that,…

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08.10.2016

MY WEEK WITH: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar 8X Dual Time in Japan

Last Sunday I boarded a plane in Melbourne and made the 8,000-odd kilometre trek to Tokyo. And in the last week I have travelled, by Shinkansen, bus and car a further 1500 or kilometres across Japan. On my wrist every step of the way – from airport lounges to traditional Ryokans – was the Seiko Astron. The Astron is a tremendously important and innovative watch for Seiko – it takes its name from the first quartz wristwatch, developed by the brand in 1969. The orginal Astron was a major milestone, not just in watchmaking, but in the history of electrical engineering.…

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06.10.2016

HANDS-ON: Everlasting lustre – the Rolex Daytona in yellow gold with green dial (ref. 116508)

Though the devastatingly cool new steel Daytona is the Rolex chronograph de jour, this year the brand also released new variations of their classic chrono in white and yellow gold. Today, we’re having a look at the reference 116508, in 18 carat yellow gold with a new green dial – a colour combination that no Aussie can resist. The reference 116508 is the same 40mm Oyster case, powered by the calibre 4130, accurate to within -2/+2 a day. Indeed, the only difference between this reference and earlier models is the dial. But what a dial. Yellow gold versions of the Daytona are most…

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05.10.2016

LIST: 4 ways the Tudor Pelagos can go from desk to diver without missing a beat

Are you sitting down? You’d better be, because I’m about to drop a truth bomb of bunker-busting proportions. Most dive watches out there in the real world never see anything deeper than the local pool. Shocking, I know. The truth is, there’s plenty of dive watches out there that look the business, but are less than optimal underwater. Others though, are quite capable of multitasking – looking just as good in office or marine environments. The Tudor Pelagos is one such watch. Here’s four reasons why. #1 – Distinctive design While the Pelagos takes its dial-side inspiration from the watches…

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04.10.2016

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc 4810 Twinfly Chronograph 110 Years Edition – a dressy traveller that can do it all

It’s a milestone year for the 4810, as the popular collection celebrates its tenth birthday. To commemorate the big 1-0 Montblanc has released a swathe of new models and limited editions that continue to explore their overarching themes of navigation and exploration. There’s the cruise ship inspired ExoTourbillon Slim, as well as the more accessible 4810 Day-Date. Sitting neatly in between is the Twinfly Chronograph. The Twinfly, first released in 2011, has been a hit for the brand, and we suspect that this updated, somewhat aristocratic travellers watch will be no different. At a glance there’s a lot going on. Not only does…

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03.10.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, a wonderful watch ruined with wordplay?

Story in a second Omega adds an extra hand, two millimetres and a whole lot of text to their Constellation-inspired Globemaster. The Globemaster was one of the breakthrough watches of 2015, and it would have been naive to think that Omega wouldn’t extend the collection. And, while predicting a calendar version would have been a pretty safe bet, no one expected it to look quite like this. Given that the collection will be hitting Australian shores soon, we thought it was time to take a closer look at the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar The dial When I saw the press images of…

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02.10.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: JLC’s Master Calendar Meteorite is out of this world

Editor’s Note: Meteorite dials are nothing new – but we rarely see this exotic dial material on otherwise conservative pieces. The juxtaposition creates a truly special watch with a one-of-a-kind dial that we’d never get tired of staring at.  One of the watches we were most looking forward to seeing in the metal at SIHH 2015 was the brand new, meteorite dialled Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Meteorite dialled watch. From the press shots we weren’t sure if we’d love this watch or (how do we say this politely) – prefer the traditional dialled version. Luckily for all concerned the watch wears very…

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01.10.2016

HANDS-ON: The Bell & Ross BR 01 Instrument de Marine – an eighteenth century take on their classic square pilot

If Bell & Ross’s Skull Bronze implicitly referenced the golden age of exploration with its nautical case material, the BR 01 Instrument de Marine is far more explicit in its influence. This distinctive watch is inspired by marine chronometres, naval timekeeping devices that were crucial for navigation in a pre-electronic age – the eighteenth century equivalent of a pilot’s dash display. Mixing this extremely classical style of watch with the aviation instrument inspired BR 01 case is quite a stylistic jump for Bell & Ross, but oddly enough it works. Instrument de Marine isn’t a single model, rather it’s a…

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30.09.2016

HANDS-ON: The moonlit symphony that is the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moonphase

Let’s begin by stating the patently obvious: A. Lange & Söhne has had a very good year. At the top end, collectors have raved about the Grand Lange One Moonphase Lumen, as well as the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds. And for those whose pocketbooks have earthly limitations – the new Saxonia Thin presents a very tempting offering. For me though, the sweet spot lies somewhere in the middle. The Saxonia Moonphase offers you the undeniable style of the Saxonia family, but adds some classic Lange complications to the mix – the big date and that oh-so-stunning moonphase. And the star of the show, is…

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30.09.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 30th September, 2016

It’s a public holiday in Victoria today – Grand Final Friday, so the Time+Tide office is officially empty, but that doesn’t mean we’re not hard at work, after a week that encompassed the grand launch of our survey (if you’re Aussie, you have no excuse not to enter, I mean, what’s the worst thing that could happen? You win a watch?) a photo shoot with some Panerai faithful, an afternoon in our ‘hood with Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin (there’ll be a very special video to commemorate this honour) and events with Piaget at Vue de Monde (Andrew now knows the…

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29.09.2016

HANDS-ON: The smartly-designed, value-packed Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Small Second

One of the most surprising watches I’ve seen this year is the Tissot PRS 516 Triple Seconds. Tissot has taken their stalwart, sporty PRS and given it a smart makeover, and it does it at a very competitive price. At first glance you’d be forgiven for thinking that this watch is a chronograph, after all the PRS is a pretty sporty line. But look again and you’ll notice that the dial and lack of pushers doesn’t add up. Instead those three subdials all display running seconds, but in 20 second increments. So the first 20 seconds are displayed on the…

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29.09.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Win the sold out, bronze hotness that is the Oris Carl Brashear Divers Sixty-Five. Here’s why you want it…

Editor’s note: The Divers Sixty-Five has been a runaway hit for Oris. Now, in its second collection, it’s offered in two sizes, with an ever-increasing range of dial options (green being the latest). But the pride of place in this versatile and accessible collection goes to the bronze-cased Carl Brashear, a limited edition hit that’s completely sold out in Australia. But if you have your heart set on this bronze beauty, don’t give up hope yet, because we’re giving you the chance to win it, as in this actual watch, simply by taking part in our survey. What are you waiting for…

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28.09.2016

HANDS-ON: Hello Sailor! Franck Muller takes to the high seas with the Yachting collection

The last time we had Franck Muller in the office it was a bold Vanguard clad in sinister black and red – a watch that was at once sporty and menacing. Today we’re looking at another take on their trademark curved shape, and while the case and dial layout are the similar to the Vanguard, the overall look and feel couldn’t be more different. The name gives the game away a little, but the Yachting watch offers a fresh nautical feel on the wrist. The marine allusions start with the dial, a shimmering navy blue that pairs well with the…

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27.09.2016

LIST: 5 times Rolex helped to make the world a better place (for more than just your wrist)

Watch brands don’t change the world, right? Sure, it’s easy enough to create a limited edition watch that raises funds and awareness, but as for true and lasting change for the better…? Very rare. That might be a fair generalisation for many luxury watch brands, but this style of one-off, often half hearted corporate social responsibility has never been the Rolex way. Instead, for the last 40 years, Rolex has been supporting enterprising individuals working on scientific and technological innovations, preserving imperiled ecosystems and endangered species, as well as preserving culture and working to improve the quality of life in developing…

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26.09.2016

IN-DEPTH: Speedy, stealthy, sexy…the TAG Heuer Monza CR2080

The story in a second TAG Heuer has once again dipped into their enviable back catalogue, and come up with one of their best reissues in years – the Monza CR2080. In 1975, a legend was born. Niki Lauda won his first Formula One driving title. This marked the coming together of three greats – Lauda’s skill, Ferrari’s cars and Heuer’s timekeeping. The track where it all went down? The Autodromo Nazionale in Monza, home of the Italian Grand Prix. In 1976, Heuer celebrated this milestone with the release of the original Monza, taking the Carrera case but giving it…

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25.09.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Minimalist style, maximum impact – the Nomos Minimatik

Editor’s Note: Nomos’ slender Minimatik is a colour-packed watch that vividly demonstrates that minimalism doesn’t need to be stuffy. Oh, and it’s packing heat where it counts too – in the form of the slender in-house DUW 3001 movement. If you came here looking for our expert opinion, expressed with the utmost of erudition, on the brand new Nomos Minimatik I must apologise in advance, because I’m going to spend a good chunk of this article talking about the least visible aspect of the watch. The fact is, the Minimatik is a big deal because of the DUW 3001 movement that powers it.…

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24.09.2016

LIST: 5 Breguet inventions from 1783 – 2010 that all watch lovers should know by heart

Every year at Baselworld I attend a technical presentation from Breguet. I’m ushered into a small room, introduced to Swiss gentlemen who work in the brand’s R&D and Technical departments. Pleasantries are exchanged, coffees offered and accepted. Then we sit down and it gets serious. I’m shown slideshows full of graphs and parabolas, discuss hertz and resonance, and marvel at deconstructed movements. Sixty minutes later, I walk out with my head hurting, my mind stretched, marvelling that this brand, with such a rich history of innovation, is still pushing the boundaries of horology. Today we take a closer look at…

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23.09.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 23rd September, 2016 – the high life edition

This week we’ve been busy swanning around, sipping fine (glow-in-the-dark) Champagnes and chatting to the beautiful people while driving exotic cars. Of course in between all these tastes of la dolce vita we’ve been perusing some truly exceptional watches. What does this mean for the Wind Down? Well, we’re forgoing our traditional chilled alcoholic beverage in favour of a good old-fashioned water – our livers deserve a break. What happened? This morning the CEO of Ferrari Australasia Mr Herbert Appleroth drove his car into our office. Luckily for the car – the brand new Ferrari 488 Spider – we had…

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23.09.2016

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey collection

Ever since we laid eyes (and hands) on the incredibly beautiful King Gold Blue model, we’ve been paying extra attention to the Classic Fusion line. But now there might be a new killer combo to replace the Blue on our Hublot grail list – the Classic Fusion Racing Grey. The Classic Fusion has a lot going for it in terms of its aesthetics. But more than that it offers an alternative to the perennially popular Big Bang. Perhaps you’ve already got a watch box full of BB LEs and are looking for something different. Or maybe the hardcore sports vibe…

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22.09.2016

HOW TO: Make your watch brand go viral, a marketing masterclass by Moser

It’s both reassuring and alarming to discover that H. Moser & Cie. CEO Edouard Meylan is a human version of his brand’s watches: he is stylish, sophisticated, smart (more on that later) and in possession of a sense of humour that is never too far from the surface. He’s also refreshingly direct and far from complacent about the favourable position he currently finds himself in. All of which adds up to a boss who’s well placed to bring the old, established name of Moser back into the spotlight. I sat down with Edouard in Sydney yesterday, and received a crash course in brand-building 101…

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21.09.2016

WHY I WEAR: Breguet – Glenn and his Tradition GMT

Some watches always get the double tap when they show up in our Instagram feed. One such model is Glenn’s (AKA @syn_chronus) ridiculously lovely Breguet Tradition GMT. Not only because it’s a stunning watch in its own right, but also for the fact that we simply don’t see too many out there. So we got in touch with Glenn to talk about the story about his watch, and find out why he wears Breguet. When did you first notice Breguet? I was in Hong Kong, where there’s essentially more watch stores than convenience stores. I saw a big poster for Breguet…

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20.09.2016

VIDEO: “Is your 20k tourbillon of lesser quality?” Felix asks TAG Heuer GM Guy Sémon several burning questions on the Heuer-02T

One of the hottest topics at this year’s Baselworld fair was TAG Heuer’s ’20k tourbillon’. And that nickname is even more impressive when you translate it into US, which gets it much closer to 15k. It represents the brand’s comparatively accessible take on that most hallowed (and most expensive) of complications.  TAG Heuer’s aggressively priced Carrera Heuer-02T – which retails in Australia for $20,450 – stirred equal measures of surprise and scepticism. Patek Philippe’s Chairman Thierry Stern held nothing back when he said that such a low-priced tourbillon was “nearly a joke”, commenting: “If [TAG Heuer are] willing to try to kill the quality…

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19.09.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Breguet Classique 7147 – taking the dull out of dress watch

The story in a second: Breguet’s updated Classique 7147 offers traditional style, modern convenience and just the right amount of playfulness. The Classique 7147 is the definition of a quiet achiever. It’s a simple, sturdy watch that does everything asked of it with style, and it does so with a sense of reserved assurance that only a watch with ‘Breguet’ on the dial can adequately muster. The purpose of this Breguet is to be a dress watch without equal. If you need a black-tie timepiece that speaks to tradition and classical style, without being yet another ho-hum exercise in derivative…

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18.09.2016

VIDEO: The Montblanc CEO Jérôme Lambert’s impossible ‘blind’ challenge, Part 2

When we left off the Blindside Challenge, where we ask a key brand leader to i.d their watches by touch alone, Montblanc CEO Jérôme Lambert had guessed one out of a possible two watches. The distinctive Rieussec case proved no match for his keen wits and powers of deduction, but the 1858 Small Seconds was, as he said, “impossible” to identify, as there was no way to tell the difference between several models simply by touch. So it comes down to this. The final two Montblanc watches. Will Jérôme’s encyclopaedic knowledge of Montblanc’s watches win the day, or will he stumble over…

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17.09.2016

LIST: 7 different guys wearing the hell out of the Piaget Polo S

When we reviewed the Polo S we were struck by its by its sartorial versatility. To prove our point we looked to Piaget’s own ‘game changers’ – their take on ambassadors – all of whom have completely different personal styles, but who wear the absolute hell out of it, changing its character with their own swag. From Playboy, to nighthawk to black tie and beyond, it’s all here. Bar one. The only look not covered, sadly, given the cocktail dress code of the launch event, is a polo. We’ll have to test that out ourselves and let you know. Look…

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16.09.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 16th September, 2016

Bit of a sombre one this week all told. Not only did it mark the 15th anniversary of the September 11 attacks, but the news from Richemont’s AGM does not bode well for the watch industry on the whole. But that’s how it goes sometimes – not every wind down can be beer and skittles. But, having said that, life continues to be all kale smoothies and megastar reposts for Andy Green, who this week saw an extra couple of zeroes on his Instagram wristshot when it was reposted  by a reasonably well known watch brand. What actually mattered Everyone knew…

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16.09.2016

HANDS-ON: The romance of travel and the Baume & Mercier Capeland Worldtimer

There’s an inherent romance to a worldtime watch. It’s a complication that offers the promise of adventure. As you check the time in your Sydney office, you can’t help but notice that it’s daquiri o’clock in glamorous places like Santiago (Denver – not so much). Compared to the purely functional GMT, a worldtimer reminds you just how big the world is, and implicitly invites you to explore it. Baume & Mercier has done an excellent job capturing this spirit in their Capeland Worldtimer – it’s a watch full of warmth and curves. The 44mm case mixes classical style with contemporary size,…

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15.09.2016

IN-DEPTH: Does the Piaget Polo S really change the game?

The story in a second Piaget’s move into the high-end steel sports market surprised many – but how does the Polo S hold up under close inspection? The Polo S caused quite a fuss when it was released. Not only was this steel sports watch far from what most people expect from the reserved Genevan brand, they also released it at a star-studded launch party in Brooklyn – the sort of event you’d expect from the likes of IWC and JLC. And finally there was the style of the watch. Many people in the watch community quickly noted its resemblance to…

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14.09.2016

IN-DEPTH: Good things come in small packages – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay 36

The story in a second: The Black Bay 36 is an outstanding watch – but is it a Black Bay, and does that even matter? When I first laid eyes the Tudor Black Bay 36 it was during a photo session at Baselworld. I saw it cold, without the watch being contextualised by Tudor staff or a journalist’s review. Shocked is too strong a word to describe my reaction, so let’s go with very surprised. My head was full of the Bronze and Dark Black Bays I had already seen, so I was expecting more of the same – bold,…

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12.09.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: New kid on the (luxury steel sports) block – the Piaget Polo S

In one of the more unexpected watch releases of the year, Piaget – makers of slender dress watches par excellence – muscled into the crowded and competitive high-end steel sports watch category. The Polo S puts the Geneva-based brand up against popular options such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus (and Aquanaut) models, as well as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak line. These are some pretty big names, and some pretty hot models. Does the Polo S, with its extraordinary finishing and mercurial dial, hold its own?

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10.09.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Come to the Dark Side with the Bulgari Octo Ultranero

Few would contest that Bulgari’s Octo is a great watch – a distinctive design jam-packed with legacy. What could possibly make it better? Well, how about a mean, stealthy and downright cool black ADLC coating? Yeah, that’ll do the trick. If you’ve been on the fence about Bulgari, the Octo Ultra Nero will convert you. Don’t believe us – well if this watch can convert even hardened watch reviewers like Justin Mastine Frost (who joined the team in Basel 2015), then that’s a testament to the power of the Dark Side.

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09.09.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 9th September, 2016

I’d like to start this week’s Wind Down by asking you all to stop what you’re doing and give a big round of applause to Melbourne’s weather. Seriously, non-denominational weather gods – you have delivered the goods this week. If you’re reading this in the Sahara or on an Antarctic research base, we apologise, but for once Melbourne is a better place to be; it’s been mild and marvellous. And clearly the best way to celebrate the warmth of the sun is enjoying some tapas on a rooftop bar with a pint of cider by your side. Or you could be…

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09.09.2016

IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko, master of details – the Automatic Hi-Beat 36000 (ref. SBGH005)

The story in a second: Grand Seiko’s limited edition Hi-Beats are hot property, but the regular production SBHG005 is, not to overstate things in any way, a masterpiece of understated excellence. Most high-end watches are instantly recognisable as luxury objects. Your watch makes a statement about who you are and what you value. Rolex says one thing, IWC another. This is, of course, the point. Most people, upon spending thousands of dollars on a watch want you to know you’ve spent thousands of dollars on a watch. And then there’s Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko is the Japanese watchmaker’s premier line,…

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06.09.2016

HANDS-ON: The ultimate his and hers watch – the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor

Last year Rolex released the stealth-wealthy Everose, Cerachrom and Oysterflex Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116655, a watch that shifted the skipper’s watch from the periphery of the catalogue to front and centre. It all but stole the show. This year Rolex’s renewed interest in the line continues, with this sumptuous Rolesor version, topped off by a new chocolate dial. It’s a combination that well and truly ignites the category of the ‘couple watch’, perfectly viable for him, or her, or better still, for both. This is not an under-the-radar watch (as you can see from our video review). If the polished…

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05.09.2016

HANDS-ON: I feel the need, the need for…IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Top Gun Miramar

IWC’s Pilot’s collection is predominantly a tribute to the past – to the golden age of aviation, and of course WWII. But amidst the vintage squadron of Junkers and Spitfires there flies a much more modern creation, a supersonic F-14 Tomcat in the shape of the Top Gun Miramar collection. Named for the flight school made famous by Maverick and Goose, the IWC’s Top Gun collection is the boldest, most contemporary design in their Pilot’s collection, and the Mark XVIII epitomises this spirit. In addition to the layout, the colours are a modern take on vintage too, with the typical white…

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03.09.2016

VIDEO: A watch lover’s guide to NYC, with RedBar founder Adam Craniotes

Along with Geneva and Hong Kong, New York City is one of the most important cities in the world for watches. There are, in fact, so many boutiques and high-end retailers that it’s easy to get overwhelmed. Who better to show us through the horological core of the Big Apple than one of the watch scenes most garrulous characters – Adam Craniotes? The charismatic founder of the ever growing RedBar Group – where watch collectors meet up, swap stories and take part in #sexpiles – gives us an insider’s take on the best places to go for espresso, whisky or a Bloody…

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02.09.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 2nd September, 2016 – the advertising edition

Want to know something scary? 2016 is practically over. It’s 115 sleeps until Christmas. Which equals 17 more weeks or, most horrifyingly of all, a mere 85 business days. I don’t know about you, but I’m still recovering from #xmas15. There’s only one thing to do. Have a drink (and read about watches). What happened? As far as the genre goes, watch ads hardly push the envelope. Almost all the time, it’s glistening product, artfully placed on the wrists or arms (or, if you’re Leo, it’s the TAG Heuer fist) of a famous ambassador. Sure, Rolex’s ad strategy has (as you’d expect) long…

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02.09.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: 7 ways to spot a fake Tudor Black Bay

Editor’s Note: Today we’re looking back at a story we ran just under a year ago, and one that’s just as relevant today. And while this ‘How to’ guide deals with the specific example of a fake Tudor Black Bay, many of the broad points here are relevant to a whole lot of watches. Stay safe people.  Counterfeits have been around for a long time, but in this age of rapid global production, increasingly convincing fakes, convenient online sales, and a booming market in high-end watches, the problem has never been bigger. It’s no longer as simple as a TAG…

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01.09.2016

HANDS-ON: Heavy metal thunder – the Bell & Ross BR 01 Burning Skull

Bell & Ross has a thing for skulls. Since 2009 they’ve regularly enjoyed the danse macabre (or dance of death if your French is a little dusty). Of course, being Bell & Ross there’s an aviation link – the skull is a symbol commonly used by US Airborne Divisions. But as the years pass, the brand has taken the basic concept of a skull-emblazoned BR 01 in some exciting new directions, like 2015’s Skull Bronze. This year, Bell & Ross continues to explore the themes of adventure, daring and general badassery with the impressive BR 01 Burning Skull. For once…

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29.08.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The biggest (bronzest) Tudor yet, meet the Black Bay Bronze

After four years of Black Bay releases we expected the collection to take a well-earned rest on the Tudor bench in 2016. Well, that didn’t happen. Not only did the entire collection get an in-house upgrade and a new blacked-out model, but it was also given a bulkier, bronzed body. Meet the big daddy of the family – all 43mm of it – the Black Bay Bronze. Though it’s only a 2mm upsize from the other Black Bays, it’s now the largest watch in Tudor’s current catalogue, and the difference is immediately noticeable. Combine this size with the fact that the bronze…

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27.08.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Hail to the Chief! The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 review

Editor’s Note: Perhaps it’s because Ceri has been spotting them on the wrists of the rich and famous, or maybe it’s thanks to the handsome green-dialled version released at Baselworld that we’re still more than a little infatuated with. Whatever the reason, the solid-gold Rolex Day-Date remains the undisputed king of power watches. We take another look at 2015’s Day-Date 40.  The story in a second The ultimate power watch has had a major upgrade. The big question How long will it take for the next-generation movement technology showcased in the Calibre 3255 to trickle into Rolex’s more accessible collections? There’s a…

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26.08.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 26th August, 2016 – the shady edition

Birds are chirping, flowers are budding, and there’s a renewed sense of optimism in the air. Yes, springtime is almost here. Not sure about you, but this impending seasonal change calls for a celebration. So, charge your glasses with something that possesses refreshing citrus notes and find out what happened this week in watches. What happened Fresh off their Olympics high, Omega decided to get into the sunglasses business, with a range of Clooney-esque, watch-inspired designs made in partnership with Marcolin. Somewhat surprisingly they’re far from the first watch brand to venture onto our noses. Here are a few of…

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24.08.2016

IN-DEPTH: Bronze beauty – the Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition

The story in a second From the bright and shiny press pics, to the patinated reality, the bronze Carl Brashear from Oris is one of the buzziest watches released this year. We had thought, towards late 2015, that the watch world had reached peak bronze. The uncommon material, pioneered by Panerai and Anonimo seemed to be everywhere – from dive watches to pilots. Well, we got that one wrong. The bronze age continues unabated, with two premier dive watch releases: the bronze evolution of Tudor’s Black Bay, and this limited edition take on the Divers Sixty-Five, the Carl Brashear Limited…

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23.08.2016

HANDS-ON: Jaeger-LeCoultre nails sports style with Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic

Based on the coverage of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s SIHH releases, it’d be fair to assume the brand put out nothing but dressy Reversos this year. Well, that’s not true. One of the more under-the-radar releases was a handsome update to the Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic. Physically and functionally, the new version is unchanged from the 2014 original. It’s still the same imposing black ceramic 46mm case, paired with a technical-looking ‘Trieste’ calfskin strap and utilitarian dial layout. What’s new is the colour scheme. Previously the Master Compressor Chronograph ran with the ever popular black-on-black with red highlights, but JLC has softened this approach, replacing…

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20.08.2016

HOW TO: Buy a watch when you’re drunk

We’re pretty sure this doesn’t need to be said, but let’s say it anyway. Don’t buy watches when you’re drunk. Nothing good can come from it. Seriously. Nothing. You’ll wake up hungover, surrounded with bottles of Dom/Chivas/Pabst (depending on budget and taste), considerably poorer and with a rare Enicar Sherpa Graph heading your way via the Philippines. Or not. But if you’re going to do it, you might as well do it right. So we’ve prepared a three-step program to minimise risk and maximise fun. Step 1: Be prepared. A lot of this comes down to what you’re like when…

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19.08.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 19th August, 2016 – the 0.1% edition

This week we’re all about the finer things in life, and those who can afford them. So, crack open the ’61 Chateau Latour and allow your butler to read you this week’s edition of the Friday Wind Down. What happened? We posted our video review of the most complicated watch ever made – the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega (not to be confused with the most complicated pocket watch ever made – the Vacheron Constantin 57260). Now, we don’t know if it’s the whopping 36 complications or the even more whopping $4.2 million price tag – but this watch has certainly…

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18.08.2016

HANDS-ON: Blancpain, but not as we know it. The L-Evolution Tourbillon Carrousel

The watch you’re looking at isn’t a Richard Mille or Hublot creation. No folks, this is made by Blancpain. And who would have expected a brand best known for its famed Fifty Fathoms and dressy Villeret collections to come up with this delicate symphony of complication, housed in an avant-garde, industrial body? Precisely no one. But that’s what the L-Evolution collection is all about: aggressive lines meeting some of the finest watchmaking Switzerland has to offer. A surprise of the best possible kind. As the name suggests, the watch features a flying tourbillon and a carrousel, and while you’re probably all familiar with…

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17.08.2016

IN-DEPTH: Is this the best heritage watch of 2016? The Oris Divers Sixty-Five 42mm

Story in a second No risk of second-album syndrome here – this slightly larger take on the Divers Sixty-Five is a worthy, if slightly more mainstream, follow-up to the original release. There must be something good in the water at Hölstein, because Oris has been on fire lately. The 100% mechanical brand has always had a solid following thanks to its no-fuss divers and pilots pieces, but even though the watches represent excellent bang for buck, they’ve always been a little under the radar. That changed last year with the release of the original Divers Sixty-Five, a pitch-perfect reissue that…

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15.08.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The most complicated wristwatch ever made – the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega video review

Franck Muller has the rather grandiloquent sobriquet of ‘The Master of Complications’ – and this watch is the reason why. Superseding Patek Philippe’s Calibre 89 for the most complicated title when it was released in 2010, the Aeternitas Mega features a staggering 36 complications, 21 hands and a movement with no fewer than 1483 parts. More impressive still, it held on to that title even after Patek unveiled its showstopping Grandmaster Chime in 2014. (For some reason, this is occasionally referred to as the most complicated watch ever made, though the Aeternitas Mega tops it by an impressive margin of 16 complications, which places it as the clear…

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14.08.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Dress it up, dress it down – the Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph Ref. 5370P

Editor’s note: Sporty. Refined. High-end. Wearable. Watch marketing departments often try to mash seemingly disparate descriptors like this to make watches appeal to as wide an audience as possible. And rarely does it work. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5379P is a key exception; a platinum split-seconds chronograph that can be easily dressed down. Don’t believe us? Here it is, looking amazing on a plain old $10 NATO.  The story in a second: The new Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph (Ref.5370P to its friends) is the new must have über-Patek. The talk about Patek Philippe this year centred on their controversial attempt to break…

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12.08.2016

WATCHSPOTTING: Comic legend John Cleese on his silly little watch and ‘unbelievable’ watch prices

Last night one of the elder statesman of comedy, John Cleese, appeared on Channel Ten’s prime-time news panel show The Project. Ostensibly Cleese was there to discuss a new stage version of Farty Owls – sorry, Fawlty Towers – but things got a little off track when one of the presenters asked him about his brightly coloured Swatch. Turns out this timepiece, which Cleese picked up for about £12 at a London airport is his perfect holiday accessory: “What I like about it is that it’s plastic. If you go off to the sun and sweat a lot, as you…

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12.08.2016

IN-DEPTH: The 2016 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116500LN, and the one thing that’s wrong with it

The story in a second The latest and greatest steel Daytona is here, and everyone loves it. The only problem? Getting your hands on it. It’s hard to know where to start with a review of the most coveted watch of the year (and we suspect for many years to come). More specifically, it’s hard to be objective, to provide a meaningful review of a timepiece that has been so intensely speculated upon and scrutinised. For many people, the Daytona is the ideal, iconic watch design, and this new 116500LN is a near perfect blend of old and new. The backstory The history…

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09.08.2016

HANDS-ON: Gold medal effort – the Omega Olympic Official Timekeeper Co-Axial Chronograph

When discussing Omega’s limited editions, it’s generally pieces from the Speedmaster or Seamaster lines that spring to mind – and certainly when it comes to the Rio 2016 releases, it’s the Mark II Speedy and the brightly-bezelled Seamaster that have been chewing up most of the bandwidth. But if you ask me, Omega’s finest Rio LE is this exceptionally classic piece. Designated an ‘Olympic Official Timekeeper’ it’s one of three (very) limited edition chronographs, all slightly different, offered in white, yellow or, in this case, pink gold. It’s a traditional chronograph in the purest sense, a perfectly sized 39mm case, with polished bezel…

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08.08.2016

HANDS-ON: The Eterna KonTiki Super Chronograph – a bang-for-buck in-house chrono

A peer of the Submariner and the Fifty Fathoms, the Eterna KonTiki is one of the all-time great dive watches, with its own equally cool backstory. In 1947, Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl sailed from Peru to the Polynesian islands on a 14-foot balsa-wood raft called the Kon-Tiki. The 6900km journey took 101 days, and at its end Heyerdahl proved that South American exploration and settlement of the Pacific was possible. He and his team completed their epic voyage with Eterna timepieces on their wrists, and so, in 1958 Eterna adopted the KonTiki name for its adventure-oriented line of watches. The watch has evolved…

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07.08.2016

VIDEO: How to wear a gold watch, with Cartier and Chris Edwards

Gold. It’s the original precious metal – with a lustre that has shone unabated for millennia. Gold is the universal symbol of success, power, status and, obviously, wealth. These markers, while making it such a desirable material, can also make it tricky to wear, especially if you’d rather not look like a Boxster-driving-try-hard. On top of that there’s the question of which gold? Is red the same as pink? And is yellow gold old-fashioned? Won’t people think my white gold watch is just steel? All this makes wearing a gold watch something of a sartorial minefield. So rather than risk…

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06.08.2016

INSIGHT: Omega’s timekeeping at the Olympics – from 1932 to 2016

The smoke from the Rio 2016 Opening Ceremony has settled, and the games of the 31st Olympiad have officially begun. And, for the 27th time Omega has been entrusted as the official timekeeper, making sure that records are made and broken with the utmost accuracy. Things have changed since Los Angeles in 1932. This marked the first time Omega served as official timekeeper – indeed the first time a single company was responsible for timing all events. The key timing instrument was the split-seconds chronograph, accurate to fifths and tenths of a second. Omega brought with it fewer than 30 such…

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05.08.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 5th August, 2016 – Manga, irony and a suspiciously familiar dial

For some reason we’ve been humming ‘The Girl from Ipanema’ this week and exhibiting a far greater than usual interest in the sports of fencing and field hockey (the Kookaburras beat the Irish 1-0 on Wednesday). It must also be said that the occasional call and response of Aussie Aussie Aussie, Oi Oi Oi! Has been known to burst forth in the office. Yep, we’re getting ready for the all-sprinting, all-dancing spectacle that is Rio 2016. But before we go full Olympic, let’s crack a refreshing beverage and have a look at the watches that caught our eye this week.…

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05.08.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: A new take on the Big Bang. The Hublot Meca-10 All Black video review

You’re looking at the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 All Black. Further proof, if any were needed, that the brand is on a roll right now. The Meca-10 combines the best of classic Hublot (that case, the All-Black concept) with increasingly confident movement and dial design – not least the Meccano-inspired industrial skeletonisation and deep movement architecture of the new HUB 1201. If you haven’t been paying attention to what Hublot has been up to recently, this should change, stat. The Meca-10 is a sophisticated watch, and we suspect it’s just the beginning. Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 All Black Australian Pricing…

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02.08.2016

HANDS-ON: This charming watch – explaining the Tudor Heritage Advisor

Last year Tudor unveiled its first manufacture movement to nigh-on internet-breaking levels of fanfare and buzz. So impressive was the MT-5621 that it overshadowed the retro-modern North Flag that showcased it. But it’s a little remarked upon fact that Tudor’s first foray into in-house happened way back in 2011, in the Tudor Heritage Advisor – one of earliest, and (in my opinion) most under-rated of the Geneva-based brand’s popular Heritage collection. Before we talk about why the Advisor holds such a special place in Tudor’s line-up, let’s find out a little about where it came from. First released in 1957, the…

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31.07.2016

IN-DEPTH: The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 AeroGT Chronograph

You may have noticed we’re all about the Bell & Ross AeroGT collection this week. After all, who didn’t spend their childhood creating jet-inspired cars, and imagining a world in which they could exist. Seriously, how much fun must B&R have had working on the AeroGT – and extending the concept out into two very cool watches. We’ve already reviewed the the three-handed BR03-92, but so far we’ve only given you a quick taste of the chronograph with our 60-second video. Now it’s time for a little more focus. The dial Let’s cut to the chase. This watch is all…

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30.07.2016

IN-DEPTH: The pure design of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

Story in a second: The Saxonia Thin is A. Lange & Söhne design at its most pure. One of the things that makes everyone like A. Lange & Söhne as a brand (and I mean everyone, I can’t think of a single person I know who doesn’t like or respect what Lange does) is the thought, care and quality that goes into every watch. From the gobsmackingly amazing Zeitwerks and Perpetual Calendars, all the way to the simpler pieces – like this manually wound Saxonia Thin. And what’s even more amazing is that this thought and care continues to grow;…

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29.07.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 29th July, 2016

To paraphrase Stipe et al – it’s the end of the week as we know it. We started off the week watching highlights of Juventus’s 2015 Seria A finals  in preparation for Monday night’s Q&A with players hosted by Hublot. After such a promising, ahem, kick-off to the week, the following days raced by in a blur and the next thing you know, here we are, polishing off a bottle of Chivas. What happened? Ceri got her horological sleuth on, spotting some of the finest watches on celebrity arms at San Diego Comic-Con. What did we learn? Well, aside from the fact that…

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29.07.2016

VIDEO: Hublot, Juventus and the beautiful game

Hublot loves football. If you watched the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil this would have been abundantly clear – even the referee boards bore the distinctive porthole shape the brand is famous (and named) for. In addition to this, Hublot is the official watch of UEFA EURO 2016, and the watch of choice for a host of legendary figures and world class teams, including Turin-based Juventus. And while Australia is one of the few countries to call football ‘soccer’, that doesn’t mean that we’re not passionate about the game, which is why Juventus, along with the Tottenham Hotspurs and…

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27.07.2016

HANDS-ON: Bell & Ross hits the highway with the BR03-92 AeroGT

We’ve already met the brooding chunk of finely machined steel that is the BR03-94 AeroGT chronograph. Well, today we’re having a look at its less complicated brother – the BR03-92 AeroGT. While the fundamentals of this time-only AeroGT are very similar to the many other BR03-92 models – namely the square 42mm case, the distinctive case screws, short lugs and chunky strap – in reality this feels like a completely different watch. That’s thanks to the stripped back, cut-away dial and the slick rally strap, complete with go-faster red piping. Aside from being incredibly fun to wear, this watch demonstrates Bell…

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25.07.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Is it a car? Is it a plane? No, it’s the Bell & Ross BR03-94 AeroGT video review

Bell & Ross, long acknowledged for its mastery of the skies (as well as for big square watches) came back to earth this year with the AeroGT collection. The inspiration behind the watch is the AeroGT concept car, a sleek, beautiful (and sadly entirely hypothetical) mash-up of fighter cockpit and supercar. So even when the brand’s taking inspiration from automobiles, the world of aviation isn’t far away. Also close at hand is the familiar square case shape, and the industrially skeletonised dial we first saw on the BR-X1. The BR03-94 AeroGT is a synthesis of everything that’s great about modern Bell & Ross.…

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24.07.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Style warrior’s choice – the Longines Heritage Military COSD

Editor’s Note: Over the past week we’ve had a bit of fun with the latest Longines Heritage piece – the Military COSD – coming up with some hypothetical historical scenarios for this straight-up-and-down watch. And honestly, it’s an easy watch to have  fun with, thanks to its simple, rugged lines and exceptionally handsome face. Read on for the full backstory.  The story in a second: Inspired by a watch designed for the British military in WWII, the Heritage Military COSD watch is the latest in a long line of strong vintage-inspired pieces from Longines. Longines routinely produce some of the…

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23.07.2016

IN-DEPTH: The King is Dead! Long Live the King! The 2016 Rolex Air-King ref. 116900

The story in a second It was definitely a surprise when we saw it at Baselworld, but now the unconventional design of the new Rolex Air-King is starting to win us over. Rolex famously espouses a philosophy of evolution, not revolution – and its product releases are so reliably incremental that you could, well, set your watch by them. Except when they’re not. Every so often Rolex does something that breaks from its evolutionary mantra. Witness the Sky-Dweller, the platinum Daytona and now, the latest generation of the Air-King. There’s so much new about this watch that the only real link to…

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22.07.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 21st July, 2016 – the drama edition

Given that this past seven days have been all about Barry Conrad’s dramatic take on the Longines Military COSD, we thought this might be a good week to inject a little drama into our lives. So sit back, grab the popcorn and settle in for the Friday Wind Down (cue dramatic music and soap opera stares). What happened? James Dowling is one of the elder statesman of the vintage watch world, and a well-known dealer. He’s also co-author of the canonical ‘The Best Of Time Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorised History’ – a weighty, 400-page tome. And until very recently he was a…

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21.07.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Presenting for duty – the Longines Heritage Military COSD video review

Typically it’s the Time+Tide team that are the wrists behind our ‘Gone in 60 Seconds’ reviews, but today we’ve asked singer-songwriter-actor Barry Conrad to step up to the plate. He’s already delivered the thespian goods with his role as anonymous airman (we just made that title up; we have no idea if Barry named his monologue character or not) and told us how a good prop can make or break a performance. So it seemed only natural to let Barry tell the final chapter in the Heritage Military COSD tale – that of the watch itself. The COSD comes in black,…

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20.07.2016

HANDS-ON: The 2016 IWC Pilot’s Chronograph hits new heights

If you’ve been paying even marginal attention to IWC over the past seven months you’ll have noticed it’s on a bit of an aviation kick, refreshing the entire Pilot’s family and adding some tantalising novelties like the limited edition ‘Le Petit Prince’ edition of the Big Pilot and the ingenious Timezoner. Impressive as these are, they’re not the bread and butter of IWC’s Pilot’s line. That falls to fresh faces like the Mark XVIII, and updated stalwarts like this one, the Pilot’s Chronograph. If you were to look quickly at this new reference (IW377710, or IW377709 on Santoni leather) next to the…

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19.07.2016

HANDS-ON: Montblanc’s quiet achiever – the 4810 Day-Date

Confession time. When it comes to Montblanc, we’re so easily dazzled by its top-tier timepieces – perpetual calendars, world timers, tourbillons – that’s it’s easy to overlook its very fine, everyday watches. Nowhere is this more true than with the 4810, the 10-year-old collection that’s the somewhat unsung hero of the brand’s watch business. Well, this year Montblanc is celebrating the 4810 family, and there’s something for everyone. At the big-money end of town there’s the ExoTourbillon Slim. The updated Orbis Terrarum also now sits in this area of the spectrum, as well as a particularly handsome chronograph. But those are stories for other times. Today we’re…

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17.07.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Watch writers can’t jump – The Tissot Quickster NBA Teams video review

OK, maybe that’s not strictly true. Andrew knows his way around a court, and I‘m pretty sure Andy Green has some LE trainers in his closet, though they’re probably in mint condition. There may even be some viciously competitive Baselworld backroom journo v industry matches that I’m not privy to. Point is, I’m better with rehauts than rebounds, so I’ll stick to the watch reviews and Patty Mills can stick to being a basketball boss. Which brings me back to this special edition of the Tissot Quickster – one of twelve NBA-approved models. With their colourful fabric straps they’re a…

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15.07.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 15th July, 2016 – class acts and casebacks

What a week it’s been. Long and cold, but ultimately rewarding. For a typically quiet time of year there’s a lot going on, with Piaget and Tiffany & Co. launching new models. And then there’s Pokemon GO – we sense a whole new genre of wrist shots in the near future. What happened? One of the main reasons we started Time+Tide (besides making our increasingly unhealthy horological obsessions more socially acceptable) was to go beyond the press releases and discover the stories behind watches, and the people who wear them. We certainly delivered on that this week. We had a…

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13.07.2016

HANDS-ON: Nothing but net – the Tissot Quickster NBA Teams special collection

If you’re a watch fan who also happens to be mad for one of the top twelve NBA teams, then we’ve found your perfect timepiece. Earlier this year the NBA and Tissot announced a groundbreaking new integrated timing system using LED glass technology developed specifically for the American League. The new clocks will be rolled out across 29 NBA arenas in the 2016-17 season. But while improvements to timekeeping in basketball are all well and good, what we’re really interested in is the watches. Enter the Quickster. On its own this sporty, 42mm quartz chronograph is striking – we especially…

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11.07.2016

VIDEO: ABOUT TIME with Patty Mills of the San Antonio Spurs

There’s a confidence to Patty Mills as he walks on to the court of the Melbourne Sports and Aquatic Centre to talk about Tissot’s new role as Official Timekeeper of the NBA. On reflection, this confidence shouldn’t come as a great surprise. The six-foot 27-year-old is at the top of his game as point guard for the San Antonio Spurs where he’s been playing since 2012, a highlight of which was their victory against the Miami Heat to take the 2014 championship. But this is only the latest in a long series of milestones for Mills, who was the youngest ever player on…

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10.07.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Hello BBBaby! The Tudor Black Bay Black

Editor’s Note: Last week we reviewed the new Black Bay Dark,  and we couldn’t help thinking back to that time we compared the Big Crown-esque Black Bay Black to its 1954 equivalent. Almost a year on, this watch is still such a stunner, so here it is again. Bravo Tudor.  The story in a second: We’ve been waiting three long years for this watch. Now it’s here. The question is, does it live up to the anticipation? The Tudor Black Bay Black – sorry everyone, BBB is going to be the name, as unadventurous as it is – was the watch we had to…

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09.07.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: 9 of the toughest watches ever made

Editor’s Note: Last week we had a rather lovely dinner to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Casio’s premier MR-G line of G-Shocks. At various points throughout the evening watches were hit with hammers and attacked with swords – each time emerging unscathed – which got us thinking about this list of tough watches that we put together last year. I think we’re due for a part two of this sometime soon… The ability to withstand extremes has always been an important selling point in the watch game. And few are better at the tough sell than Timex. In the 1950s the American…

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08.07.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 8th July, 2016 – the best unusual dials edition

It’s Friday, so turn that frown upside down and and grab yourself a drink. This week we’ve been thinking about that part of the watch we spend the most time looking at – the dial. So turn it up to 11 and get ready for the special dial edition of the Wind Down. Most out-of-this-world dial This was a close one. The top contenders were the new Omega GSOTM Meteorite and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Meteorite. In the end we had to give it to JLC, as the pared-back design shows the space rock in its best possible light. Best…

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07.07.2016

IN-DEPTH: Got any blacker? The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

The story in a second: It’s time you met the dark horse of the Black Bay family After four years of tantalising, tactical releases culminating in the near perfect surprise announcement of the Black Bay Black last year, we weren’t expecting a new Black Bay in 2016. Well, we were wrong. Tudor gave us not one, but three completely new takes on its modern classic (and updated all the existing models to boot). So now, in addition to the colourful trio of red, blue and black we’ve got the mighty bronze, the petite 36 and today’s subject, the midnight hued…

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05.07.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Sand Storm – the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type video review

One of my favourite Bell & Ross designs of recent times is the Desert Type. That combination of black case and cream dial is pure hotness, and it’s a colourway that suits the brand’s military aesthetic to a tee, so I was very happy to see a ceramic cased chronograph introduced at Baselworld. What makes this such an appealing watch (in the video I call it weirdly sexy – something I stand behind) is that it’s all about muted contrasts and matt tones. The flat ceramic, the dial and even the soft beige calfskin strap. All the elements are working together, creating a…

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04.07.2016

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim – a smart tourbillon at a great price

Who knows what 4810 stands for, in the world of Montblanc? We’d wager about half of you know the answer is that it’s the height, in metres, of the mountain it was named after. And did you know that 2016 marks the tenth anniversary of this best-selling 4810 line of watches? Well, now you do. To celebrate, the brand has released a truly special new addition to the 4810 line-up, the ExoTourbillon Slim, a well-sized, well-priced piece that exemplifies all that’s great about Montblanc’s watchmaking today. The brand’s patented take on the tourbillon pops up all over its collection (we…

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03.07.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: California love – the Panerai Luminor 1950 PAM 629 video review

Editor’s Note: For the first time last year Panerai released a watch with a California dial in a Luminor case, and a black titanium one to boot. The result, as Jim Carrey would say, was smokin’! The Panerai PAM 629 is one of the more hotly discussed releases of Watches & Wonders. It features the distinctive  ‘California dial’, with its recognisable mix of arabic and roman numerals. Historically the California dial has only been used in the Radiomir case, and using the dial in a Luminor case represents a break from tradition. Full details including price in the video.

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02.07.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Classical cow-horns – the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache 1955 video review

Editor’s Note: Vacheron Constantin has just announced a new, pink gold version of its distinctive Cornes de Vache 1955 chronograph. The platinum model released at Watches & Wonders last year was a real stand-out – elegant in every way – though I have to say I think I prefer the luxe gold tones of this version. But for now, let’s take another look at our video review of the platinum. One of the most elegant watches released at Watches & Wonders was the Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 from Vacheron Constantin. The distinguished maison had an impressive run of hits last year, starting with…

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01.07.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 1st July, 2016 – the finance edition

Happy new (fin) year everyone! Hope you’re all hard at work preparing your tax returns right now (only allowing for brief breaks to read updates from your favourite watch site). In other news it’s very cold in Melbourne right now. So cold in fact that we don’t need to refrigerate our wind down beers, we just leave them in the back room and nature does the rest. What happened Before we get into the dollars and cents, allow us to share one of the most impressive new releases of the week – the ochs & junior perpetual calendar. We featured the moonphase in our…

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01.07.2016

MY WATCH STORY: Felix’s Nomos Club Automat

This watch story is a little different from most because, well, I’m talking about one of my own watches. It’s one that, since I bought it just over 18 months ago has come to dominate my wrist (in between review watches of course) – a Nomos Club that has become quite special to me. Why this one? I’ve been a big fan of Nomos for a long time, obviously because its watches look good, but also because it has such great integrity as a company. Initially I was drawn to the dressy looks of the Orion, but once I had the opportunity to review…

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30.06.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Lightning fast – the Franck Muller Thunderbolt Tourbillon

Franck Muller makes statement watches par excellence, as exemplified by the Thunderbolt Tourbillon. The first thing you notice is, of course, the case. The big gold curvex shape certainly makes an impression on the wrist, and shows the hand-finished, skeletonised movement in the best possible light. The manually wound movement has a mighty four barrels, allowing for eight days of power reserve. That said, the real star of the show is the tourbillon. When you’re playing at this level of horology, tourbillons are par for the course, but Franck Muller’s master watchmaker Pierre-Michel Golay has taken the Thunderbolt’s to the…

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29.06.2016

INSIGHT: Further, faster, higher, deeper – Rolex and the history of extremes

Regardless of what you think about Rolex, its reputation for rock-solid reliability is legendary. Stories abound of people taking their grandad’s Datejust out of the safe for the first time in decades, only to find it still keeping perfect time, or Submariners with gaskets and seals that have logged thousands of dive hours with no sign of failure. These are the everyday examples, but there are also the pioneers – watches that have played an integral role in landmark historical events, and not been found lacking. Further – Sir Francis Chichester and the Gipsy Moth IV For 226 days between 1966 and ’67, Sir…

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28.06.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: From tough guy to dapper gent – the Panerai PAM 655 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio video review

  Panerai is very much a ‘what you see is what you get’ sort of brand, with an identity built around being the archetypal ‘tough guy’ watch. Which was why the PAM 655 surprised us. Sure, it’s still got the iconic cushion-shaped Radiomir case, but apart from that, there’s a lightness and airiness to this watch that’s refreshing. Partially that’s thanks to its size; the 42mm case is far from overwhelming on the wrist, and to the P.4000 movement helps make it quite slender too. But it’s also the dial – because this is the first time white has been seen on this…

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26.06.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Dangerous curves – the Franck Muller Vanguard

Editor’s Note: There’s an undeniable energy about the Franck Muller Vanguard, something mesmerising and strangely compelling. We don’t know if it’s the sleek shape, the brooding colour combo or something else. We just know we like it.  When we saw Kingston Chu’s rose gold Vanguard at the opening of the Franck Muller Sydney boutique in October, we knew we had to get a closer look. Here was a Franck Muller unlike any we’d encountered before: lightweight and sporty, yet still boldly designed with the trademark curves. So when we had the opportunity to spend some time with the Vanguard, we jumped at…

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25.06.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Beat the winter blues with the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph

Editor’s Note: It’s distinctly miserable weather here in Melbourne at the moment, so what better way to beat the winter blues than with a perfect summer watch. Everything about this limited edition Bathyscaphe, from the bright blue dial all the way to the sailcloth strap, is made for long, lazy afternoons by the water. Sigh. Only five months to go. The story in a second: With one of the most impressive ceramic cases we’ve seen, the only problem with this Blancpain is that it’s limited to 250 pieces. Ocean Commitment is Blancpain’s signature program that aims to raise awareness and…

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24.06.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 24th June, 2016 – the political edition

In a few short weeks Australia heads out to the festival of democracy and sausage sizzles that we like to call the Federal Election. At this late stage the electoral high jinks are flowing thick and fast, so we’ve decided to apply our typically laser-like analysis of lugs and dials to the bigger picture. Politics. On a global scale. Can we Friday Wind Down? Yes we can! What happened? Fake Tradie! Those of you not Down Under might have missed this hilariously terrible ad for the conservative Liberal party, in which a dinky-di tradesman says he “just wants to get ahead through…

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24.06.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Nothing to hide – the Bulgari Octo Ultranero Finissimo Skeleton video review

Our love of the Octo is well documented – and real. You wouldn’t expect such an unconventional, octagonal case shape to be so stylistically flexible, but it is. And this year Bulgari showed off the Octo’s darker side with the Ultranero collection. Most blacked-out watches tend towards the tactical end of the spectrum, so the Octo Ultranero Finissimo Skeleton is a genius move, and a refreshing change of pace. Its broad pink gold bezel, architecturally skeletonised BVL 128SK movement and black DLC-treatments create a delicate balance of form and space, and show the Octo in an entirely new light.

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23.06.2016

OPINION: Why I’m no longer a ‘vintage watch guy’

When I first started getting seriously into watches, I was all about vintage. In my mind this is where it was at. I lusted after the IWC Mark XI, the Omega Memomatic and the Tudor Advisor. I’d wince when a brand ‘updated’ its icon, which invariably meant making it bigger, wider and to my eyes, uglier. With the rosy-tint of nostalgia for a life that was gone before I was born, I was sure perfection in watch design was reached in the pre-CAD times of the mid-’70s (it goes without saying that I thought the ’80s was a horological dead-zone…

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22.06.2016

HANDS-ON: The greatest chronograph of our times – the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Datograph Up/Down

Put a group of serious watch collectors in a room and ask them to name the most important modern chronograph in the world right now, and we’re confident the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph will end up top of the heap. A large part of the Datograph’s appeal is the movement, which surpasses mere functional engineering and moves into the realm of sculptural beauty. But it’s not just the watch’s technical and aesthetic virtuosity that’s earned it such universal acclaim – it’s the context it emerged from. As you may know, A. Lange & Söhne is a brand with old roots in…

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20.06.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Large and in charge – the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Master Chronometer Chronograph in titanium video review

When writing and talking about watches, we often throw around the phrase ‘wrist presence’. It’s one of the most indefinable, yet important,  aspects of any timepiece. It’s a sort of horological X-factor that incorporates style, size and, well, coolness. This titanium Planet Ocean chronograph has more wrist presence than I can comfortably handle, if I’m brutally honest. When it was shown to me at Baselworld, it was on a tray with a half-dozen other Planet Oceans, in all manner of colours and configurations. But this grey and orange beast from the deep virtually leapt off the tray and onto my wrist. It’s a…

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19.06.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: John Mayer isn’t the only one with Room for Squares. The 2015 TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11, in detail

Editor’s Note: It’s been the choice of rebels and bad boys ever since it was released – from Steve McQueen and Sammy Davis Jr all the way to Breaking Bad’s Walter White. What is it about the oddly shaped, super ’70s TAG Heuer Monaco that has made it such a timeless style icon? We asked that, and lots of other questions, when we encountered the sensitively redefined and reissued 2015 Monaco…  The story in a second: 2015 saw TAG Heuer release the bold Heuer 01, the smart Carrera Connected and a faithful re-edition of one of the most iconic watches ever…

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18.06.2016

INSIGHT: World famous photographer Steve McCurry gives us 3 photography tips in Tokyo on the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tour

It’s easy to imagine that the world of fine watchmaking is a bubble that begins and ends in Switzerland. And while it’s true that much of the heart and soul of watchmaking lies in the Swiss hills and valleys, from its earliest days travel has been an essential part of horology, and indeed accurate timekeeping has revolutionised how we move across the world. Though based in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin has long realised that they are in fact a global brand, and even in the eighteenth century they had a presence on four continents. From the very beginning they have been…

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17.06.2016

HANDS-ON: A bold new look – the Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph

Over the past few years we’ve grown to expect a certain style of timepiece to come out of Montblanc’s watch department – traditionally inspired designs, with a dash of complication, often at a price that’s hard to beat. Watches like this or this. So when we saw a large, sporty tourbillon cased in a combination of high tech materials it would be fair to say we were surprised. Unexpected though it is, there’s no denying the good looks of the TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph, a limited edition that serves as a timely reminder that Montblanc’s fine watchmaking is more than the Villeret and…

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16.06.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Back in black – the TAG Heuer Monza video review

There was one watch at Baselworld that the whole team got behind – I loved it, Andrew was excited by it (for proof, just watch the video), Dave thought the mash-up of historical models was sensational. Our videographer Marcus didn’t want to take it off his wrist. The Monza is a winner on all fronts, taking the second-generation case and pairing it with the dial layout and colour scheme of the 1976 original, resulting in a design that honours its automotive pedigree without becoming bogged down in heritage. Tag Heuer has nailed all the details, like the large-holed rally strap, the…

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15.06.2016

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time – the gentleman explorer’s choice

At the start of the year Vacheron Constantin announced a significant update to its luxury sports watch, the Overseas. A contemporary of Patek’s Nautilus and Audemars’ Royal Oak, for years the Overseas has been the little brother within the famous three, but all that’s set to change, thanks to the revamped new collection that has everything going for it: looks, peerless mechanicals and an impeccable pedigree. At SIHH, we saw time-only, chronograph and perpetual calendar models, and now a world time complication has been added to the mix. Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle world timers are regarded as among the best in the business but, as…

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12.06.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Is the Omega Seamaster 300 the best modern dive watch on the market?

Editor’s Note: The fact it’s James Bond’s choice automatically makes it good enough for the rest of us, but even without the exploding bells and whistles, the Seamaster 300 packs a heck of a punch.  The story in a second The Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial was one of the best watches of 2014, combining the brand’s rich history with their impressive Master Co-Axial movement. The big question Does Omega finally have a dive watch that can challenge the supremacy of the Rolex Submariner? Last year Omega answered the prayers of their most fervent fans, re-releasing the Seamaster 300, a beloved…

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11.06.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Bulgari defies expectations with its high-tech Diagono Magnesium

Editor’s Note: This year Bulgari released quite a few new Octo models, including the record-shattering ultra-thin minute repeater – a limited edition with a premium price tag. But it wasn’t just the Genta-designed classic that received the updates – the brand also added a bunch of colourful Diagono Magnesium Chronographs that we can’t wait to get our hands on. In the meantime, here’s last year’s time-only version.  The story in a second: Bulgari’s latest addition to the avant-garde Diagono collection – the Diagono Magnesium – is a watch that challenges expectations and industry norms. We’ve become so used to sports watches with the…

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10.06.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 10th June, 2016 – the end of an era

Today is the final Friday Wind Down in our current office; we’re pulling up stumps and moving to bigger and better digs next week. We’ll keep the reveal under wraps for now, but let me just say it’s a great escape, from the CBD. That’s pretty cryptic, but it will make sense, we promise. As a result chez Time+Tide is currently a mess of boxes and bubble wrap. But every move has a silver lining, and in this case we’ve managed to convince Andrew that it’s not safe to transport the Time+Tide alcohol library on the perilous journey across town, because, and…

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