The enthusiast-minded Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver hits on an interesting point in Zodiac’s modern history
Jamie WeissDespite economic downturns and the paradigm shift that was the COVID-19 pandemic, watch communities remain stronger than ever – and there’s no watch community stronger than RedBar. The RedBar Group styles itself as the world’s largest watch enthusiast and collector community. Founded in New York City by Adam Craniotes and Dr. Jeffrey Jacques – two noted collectors who turned their one-on-one get-togethers into a robust NYC watch community – RedBar has since established chapters around the globe, including in Time+Tide’s home city of Melbourne.
Zodiac, too, is a watch brand that has gone from strength to strength in recent years, in no small part because it has really engaged with the watch community in a way that few brands do. From introducing a more capable range of STP mechanical calibres in its watches after community feedback, to penning hot collaborations with brands like Rowing Blazers and publications like Worn & Wound, Zodiac seems to have its proverbial fingers on the pulse.
In that sense, when I heard that Zodiac and RedBar were teaming up on a watch, it seemed like a fait accompli – or maybe just a long time coming. That is not to undermine the quality of the Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver by any means: after having worn it for a week, I’m convinced that it’s one of the best RedBar collaborations yet, and a highlight within Zodiac’s current range.
A quick note on the strap
I wore the Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver on an Artem Classic Black Sailcloth strap. There’s nothing watch enthusiasts like doing more than experimenting with straps on their watches, so I think it’s particularly fitting to feature an Artem strap on such an enthusiast-focused watch.
Diving into Zodiac’s history
The standard for RedBar collabs is pretty high, and the RedBar team have been particularly tasteful with this Zodiac, with the design of the Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver inspired by Zodiac’s Point Series from the 1990s. Quick Zodiac history lesson: like many Swiss watch brands in the 1970s, Zodiac was a victim of the so-called “quartz crisis” and suffered through a number of deaths and rebirths before it was acquired by current owners Fossil Group in 2001. In 1990, Zodiac was brought back from the dead by former TAG Heuer CEO Willy Gad Monnier, only to go bankrupt again seven years later. It was during Monnier’s ownership of the brand that the Point Series came into being.
Monnier introduced a unique tiered system for Zodiac’s technical watches, those tiers being Red, Silver and Gold, identifiable by an accordingly coloured dot on the dial at 4:30, with the Red Points categorised as the workhorse tool or sports watches of the range. It’s these Red Point watches that the Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver references (it also doesn’t hurt that a pop of red also brings to mind RedBar’s name). A handful of Red Point models also featured full lume dials: it’s cool to see a full lume dial return to the Zodiac range. You’ll also find another red point on the watch’s caseback, which is a bit of fun.
Speaking of the caseback, under the hood beats an STP 1-21 movement. There’s an interesting train of thought here: most Red Point dive watches from the 90s used either quartz movements or the workhorse ETA 2824, but none were ever COSC-certified. While the STP 1-21 is, in essence, a highly developed clone of an ETA 2824, having COSC certification gives it a nice point of distinction over vintage models.
A thoroughly clean design
While I think the fact that this collab watch pays homage to a slightly obscure part of Zodiac history, the design of the Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver is extremely compelling without any historical context. Simply put, it’s a handsome tool watch with a slightly retro but nonetheless timeless aesthetic. Some Red Point models from back in the day featured designs that were very derivative of contemporary TAG Heuer models; I like how this modern watch features a more unique look in line with Zodiac’s current range.
I’d particularly like to call out the bezel and dial. The bezel is really satisfying to use, with incredibly crisp clicks and grippy knurling. Its ceramic insert is also pretty compelling: it almost looks like Bakelite, except that it’s highly scratch-resistant and features lumed markers. The dial is a real light show: I was impressed at just how bright the lume is, even in well-lit conditions. The strongly defined indices and paddle hands really aid legibility, too.
While I chose to wear this Zodiac x RedBar on an Artem strap for this review, I’d also like to call out the seven-link steel bracelet this watch comes with, as it’s pretty handsome and just slinky enough. I also like that the watch comes with an additional recycled PET Velcro strap: it’s little touches like this that really appeal to enthusiasts. It’s clearly a watch made with the watch community in mind.
Closing thoughts
I think I used the perfect word earlier in this article to describe this Zodiac x RedBar collab: tasteful. It nods to Zodiac’s history but in a subtle fashion. It’s also not overtly a collab watch with any sort of RedBar branding on it; it’s a bit “if you know, you know”. Fundamentally though, it’s just a great modern mechanical tool watch. Nicely done team.
Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver pricing & availability
The Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver is a limited edition of 200 pieces and is available now from the Time+Tide Shop, either online or in-store at our Melbourne Discovery Studio. Price: A$3,799 (~US$2,500). Find out more about the Artem Classic Black Sailcloth strap we paired it with here. Price: A$128 (US$85).
| Brand | Zodiac x RedBar |
| Model | Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver |
| Reference Number | ZO3559 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 13mm (T) x 49.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Full lume |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Seven-link steel bracelet with folding clasp Additional recycled PET Velcro strap (Watch pictured on third-party Artem Classic Black Sailcloth strap) |
| Movement | STP 1-21, automatic, COSC-certified |
| Power Reserve | 40 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, unidirectional diving bezel |
| Availability | Limited edition of 200 pieces |
| Price | A$3,799 (~US$2,500) |