Can the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde challenge the Rolex 1908 at nearly double its price?
Buffy AcaciaUnless you’ve got the comedic wealth of Mr Monopoly, you’re probably not going to be shopping for solid platinum watches on a whim. Spending several stacks of cash should be prefaced with thorough research, exploring your options, and paying attention to the feelings which certain watches evoke. Crucially, two new players have entered the realm of platinum dress watches recently, and they could be fighting over the same pool of customers. The trouble is that when one option is almost half the price and says Rolex on the dial, is there really any competition?
Parmigiani Fleurier’s relaunch at the hands of Guido Terreni has got to be one of the most impressive and meteoric brand rises in recent memory, and we’ve finally been treated to a new collection which escapes the confines of the sporty-yet-sleek Tonda PF range. The Toric Petite Seconde revisits one of the company’s older, dressier designs, while giving it a facelift for better integration with the modern catalogue. In keeping with dress watch traditions, a case of precious metal demands a platinum option. Rolex has also welcomed its latest platinum watch in the Perpetual 1908, although its bright blue guilloché dial cares much less for tradition and focuses on the flashiness. Pitting the two against each other yields some interesting results.
| Brand | Rolex | Parmigiani Fleurier |
| Model | Perpetual 1908 | Toric Petite Seconde |
| Reference Number | 52506 | PFC940-2010004-300181-EN |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 9.5mm (T) | 40.6mm (D) x 8.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | 950 platinum | 950 platinum |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Ice blue guilloché | Grey Celadon green |
| Strap | Brown or black alligator leather, platinum folding clasp | Beige alligator leather |
| Movement | 7140, in-house, automatic | PF780, in-house, manual-wind |
| Power Reserve | 66 hours | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Now | Now |
| Price | CHF 29,600 | CHF 52,000 |
Common ground – materials, layout, and lighthearted colours
The parallels between the Perpetual 1908 and the Toric Petite Seconde are pretty clear from a glance. The most obvious factor is use of a small seconds sub-dial, which is one of the few acceptable complications when it comes to traditional dress watches. It adds a nice bit of detail to the dial, but doesn’t muddy anything up. It also keeps the hour and minute hands clear for ease of legibility, although they do differ substantially in style.
Both of the watches are cased in 950 platinum, which may not be immediately apparent because white metals all look pretty much indistinguishable in isolation, but that gives them a reassuring heft which is even denser than gold. They also share a certain level of distinguished detail in the case design, with coin-edge motifs elevating them. Although the Toric is green and the 1908 is blue, both of them use their light, pastel colours as a way to depart from the stuffiness of tradition without losing any of the sophistication.
Where each stands apart – stealth, brand identity, and price
Although these watches are both made from platinum, only one of them fits into that narrow genre of “stealth wealth”. The ice-blue dial of Rolex’s platinum watches is easily recognisable among watch enthusiasts or thieves who’ve done their homework, and any Rolex defies the idea of stealth even if you mistake the case for stainless steel. The guilloché dial further proves that the 1908 has a loud personality in stark contrast to the quiet confidence of the Toric Petite Seconde. Parmigiani Fleurier isn’t afraid of a textured dial, but the Toric is supposed to be suave with its softly stippled tones of mint or sage. Also important to note, the texture of the Toric is hand-crafted. The minimalist hour markers on the Toric also stand in contrast to the slender batons and numerals of the 1908.
When it comes down to it, the differences between the two watches are very closely aligned with the identities of each brand. Rolex may make some fancy watches, but at heart it’s still essentially a tool watch brand that discovered the power of luxury marketing. Parmigiani Fleurier, on the other hand, has recently been relaunched with the sole purpose of being a high-end Swiss watchmaker, and its aspirations may just be loftier. That said, the power of the Rolex logo can’t be ignored, and it would be enough to win many people over by itself. On the other hand, there are also plenty of Rolex haters who would be instantly turned off by such a lavish watch from them.
Price is always going to be a major factor when comparing watches, especially when the disparity is so large. Considering how many similarities the watches have, a price difference of CHF 22,400 is absolutely massive. The Parmigiani Fleurier may have a 1mm larger diameter than the Rolex, but the weight of the platinum case really doesn’t have much to do with the final RRP. The difference comes from the limited nature of Parmigiani Fleurier’s production capacity as a company, as well as the minutiae of the movement. Rolex’s calibre 7140 is an automatic movement with Rolex’s standard level of finishing, which is always beautiful if not overly complex. The 18k gold winding rotor is visible from a sapphire caseback, which is rare for the brand. The PF780 powering the Toric Petite Seconde is a hand-wound movement with a three-quarter plate arrangement, but even the intricately-decorated plates are made out of 18k rose gold. The côtes de Fleurier pattern is hypnotising to look at, and it spreads its 60 hour power reserve across two mainsprings as opposed to the Rolex’s 66 hour power reserve from a single mainspring.
The verdict and my pick
You could argue that Rolex wins this debate either way, because in most cases the decision will be based on whether you are or aren’t a Rolex fan. Such is the power of a divisive brand identity. But, really the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde puts up a surprisingly convincing argument considering the chasm of money which separates the two. The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is a gorgeous watch in platinum which will undoubtedly make its owners thrilled, but the Toric Petite Seconde is kind of in another realm of luxury where the material is nearly an added bonus. The Parmigiani Fleurier style may not be as recognisable on the street as a Rolex, but it will be noticed and appreciated by the kind of enthusiasts you actually want to attract attention from. On a more shallow note, it’s also difficult to pass up that soothing shade of green which is far rarer to see than an ice blue dial.