How I changed my mind about the Rolex Explorer II (and why it now rarely leaves my wrist…)
Bruce DuguayA long time ago in a land far away (2012 / Canada), I embarked on the journey of watch collecting. I had saved enough to confidently go into the local Rolex authorised dealer and strike up a deal. Ten years ago, you could actually negotiate a discount on some of these watches, which was the only way to squeeze one into my budget.
After a few visits and a sufficient amount of free coffee and brochures I decided on a white dial stainless-steel Datejust. I usually tell people that I landed on the DJ because of its versatility and simple beauty. Ten years later, I’m a big enough person to also admit that I couldn’t quite stretch to afford the Submariner Date sitting beside it. At the last moment, the helpful sales consultant mentioned she had one other watch I should take a look at before finalising. It was a black dial Explorer II 16570. That’s right, literally a new-old-stock Rolex sports watch they couldn’t get rid of. She offered it to me for the same price as the Datejust. Hindsight is 20/20 as they say but, at the time, I just didn’t connect with it. The 16570 seemed a bit dour compared to the sparkly Datejust that had polished centre links and a much better bracelet. Ever since, I’ve passed up more 16570s than sticks can be shaken at, albeit at ever increasing price points.
Like many of us, I eventually got to spend some time with a 16570 and develop an appreciation for its understated properties. You can read that T&T article here.
Last year, Rolex introduced what they called an “all-new” Explorer II. Most enthusiasts had long been anticipating a replacement for the 216570, which was 10 years old at the time. A collective sigh was let out when the “all-new” 226570 was revealed. Playing spot-the-differences was a challenge similar to identifying the model year of two white Porsche 911s from three blocks away. Admittedly, I’d paid little attention to the current generation Explorer II due to its 42mm sizing, as I remember trying one on and thinking that it was simply too wide for my wrist.
When presented with the opportunity to purchase the new 226570 earlier this year, I diligently tried it on fully intending the session to end with me saying: “Thanks, but I’d rather wait for a Pepsi GMT”. What actually happened was the opposite. While trying the watch on, some rare winter sunlight made it into the room at just the right angle. This had the effect of highlighting the new svelte case with slimmer lugs, and also the beautifully brushed bezel. The case sat low and tucked under my shirt sleeve better than a recent Submariner. Perhaps I had beefed up a bit too since my last Explorer II test drive, because the watch seemed to feel very comfortable on the wrist. Ok, take my money.
One of the most striking elements of the Explorer II is the vibrance of the dial. In low lighting situations, the glossy white simply pops. The chunky hands and indexes in black provide the best example of beauty through functionality I’ve ever experienced on a watch. To say it is highly legible at a glance is a gross understatement. In an effort to keep its spot as the fun Rolex sports watch, the new Explorer II retains the bright orange GMT hand with a tasteful taper in the stem of the arrow and a point that nearly touches the outer edge of the dial. Aside from the model name in matching orange, the dial text and logo are no-nonsense and (for Rolex) minimal within the white expanse. The highly varied shapes and dimensions of all the hands make for a playful texture overtop the face of the watch, without ever looking mis-matched or out of place. It also goes without saying that the lume is spectacular, living up to the original spelunking mission of the Explorer II.
Many people had forecasted a ceramic bezel debuting on the new Explorer II, which did not come to fruition. In this writer’s humble opinion, the omission of a ceramic bezel is a good thing. The radially brushed bezel is a long-standing hallmark of the Explorer II line, all the way back to the early 1970s reference 1655. Whereas the Sub and the GMT have historically enjoyed darker coloured bezels (for the most part), their ceramic transition seemed easier. To replace the bright steel with a glossy ceramic on the 226570 would fundamentally change the nature of the watch. As it stands, the brushed steel is very cohesive with the rest of the package and I think wearers of the watch would endure some light scratching over time as welcome ageing akin to patina.
The stainless-steel Oyster bracelet continues the all-brushed theme right around the wrist and through the clasp. As always, the bracelet is excellent quality with a nice taper and supple feel. The locking clasp is a pleasure to actuate and includes a micro-adjustment extension to slightly increase the diameter of the bracelet after a large dinner. The bracelet combines with the low-profile case, smooth and sloped bezel, and reshaped case lugs to keep the watch comfortable all day long. It also helps that the crown is the smaller twin-lock model versus the chunky trip-lock ones seen on the toothy GMT and Submariner. The side of the Explorer flows much better since the crown guards actually guard most of the crown.
I haven’t had to wind my Rolex Explorer II yet, for two reasons. First, it is getting major wrist time. Second, the watch is fitted with Rolex’s newest 3285 movement that offers up to 70 hours of power reserve. It is a top-notch powerplant, as it should be given these Explorer IIs are now wandering into five figure price territory.
Whenever someone proposes the idea of becoming a “one-watch” guy, I usually cringe. Life with the new Rolex Explorer II has shifted my comfort level with that concept a little bit. That said, it is slightly out of place (but only just) with some of the more formal attire I tend to wear for business, therefore I’m not convinced yet. Next time you are visiting the empty displays at the nearest Rolex boutique, don’t sheepishly ask them if there’s a GMT or Submariner you can have. Confidently ask them for an Explorer II. You might be surprised by how fantastic the watch is, and it may have better odds of materialising in front of you as well.