Cameron Wong

Posts by Cameron:

18.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Worth suiting up for – the Cartier Drive de Cartier Moon Phases

Editor’s note: More and more men are opting for tailored suits and a properly fitted outfit. Harking back to the days of style, when refinement and elegance were elements that defined a man. And as most watch fans know, no suit is complete without an accompanying piece of fine wrist wear. So before you step in for your next custom measure, it’s worth considering what will be strapped to your wrist. Perhaps Cartier’s charmingly romantic Drive de Cartier Moon Phases? In our recently published interview, Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s Head of Marketing and Communications, said the Drive represented a different kind of masculinity, one that…

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17.10.2018

INTRODUCING: The three amigos – Zenith’s Defy Zero G dons Mexican affair

Around these horological parts, we really love a good four-letter acronym – SIHH, GPHG, COSC … I think you get the idea. In fact, have a conversation with any random watch enthusiast, and chances are that at least one of these terms will come up. However, one that we don’t hear a lot about on this side of the world is SIAR. It stands for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería — the Latin American luxury watch show, which has been held in Mexico City for the past 12 years. Taking place right now, from October 16 to 18, every year sees…

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17.10.2018

HANDS-ON: Put a smile on your dial – the Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull

If there’s one thing Bell & Ross love more than aviation, it’s skulls. They have been regularly releasing models adorned with the macabre motif since 2009. However, the two themes aren’t mutually exclusive, with their skull-emblazoned pieces referencing the military airborne units of WWII, who used the Jolly Roger as a not-so-subtle symbol of their ferocity in battle as well as to remind them of their own mortality. This year, Bell & Ross continue the tradition, introducing the very clever and, quite frankly, badass BR 01 Laughing Skull. There’s no doubt about it: if skull watches are your thing then chances are…

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16.10.2018

INTRODUCING: A tourbillon for your every day – the Moser Pioneer Tourbillon

Expertly finished cases, captivating fumé dials, and incredibly fine watchmaking … these are a few of our favourite Moser things. And, once again, all three are combined in the “very rare” brand’s latest Pioneer offering – the Moser Pioneer Tourbillon. More suitable for everyday wear, with a more robust steel case and a more casual design, the Pioneer collection is Moser’s answer to an entry-level luxury sports watch. Which, with the introduction of a flying tourbillon to the line-up, is an answer that was just made a little more complicated, but in the absolute best possible way. Still on offer…

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16.10.2018

VIDEO: A closer look at Drake’s sexy Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69

In Las Vegas, a little over a week ago, rapper Drake was spotted wearing the Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 at his concert at the MGM Grand Garden Arena. He took to Instagram to show off the seductive ‘oracle’ complication, which seems the perfect fit for the man known for a few suggestive lyrics of his own. But what good is the complication if you can’t see it in action? And this is one that’s all but guaranteed to see some action.   So sit back, relax, and watch this video from a few years ago, where Andrew chats…

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14.10.2018

HANDS-ON: An extra dose of speed – the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin Special Edition

At the March 2018 Geneva Motor Show, TAG Heuer announced a new partnership with Aston Martin. Being named as the “Official Partner, Official Watch Partner, and Official Connected Watch Partner” of both the British car manufacturer and its racing teams (Quick fun fact! – Aston Martin are the title sponsors of the Red Bull Racing Formula 1 team, who also happen to run engines that are badged TAG Heuer). And to celebrate the partnership, the motorsport-loving brand released a pair of new chronographs, including this unique take on the contemporary Carrera Heuer 01. And that’s where it all begins, with…

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14.10.2018

WHAT SEALED THE DEAL: On Chris’s Tudor Black Bay Bronze

Every life is worth living, so why not show off your patina? That’s exactly what I imagine went through Chris’s head when he first lay eyes on Tudor’s Black Bay Bronze. As it turns out, I wasn’t far wrong, but there were also plenty of other good reasons for him to seal the deal. When did you first see/hear about it? I am a self-confessed watch geek. When Baselworld 2016 was on I was reading about the new releases online and watching the big reveals on Instagram. The Tudor Black Bay Bronze caught my eye and it ticked a lot of boxes in…

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13.10.2018

LIST: 5 watches under $5k that you can buy right now – the 2018 edition

While on occasion I do like to splurge and treat myself to that extra shot of espresso in my morning latte, I’m not exactly loaded with cash (caffeine, on the other hand …). In fact, like I’m sure many of you reading right now, before it comes time to laying down my hard-earned on a new watch, I first have some saving to do, and usually set my sights on reaching a self-imposed goal like, say, $5k. Why $5k? Well, not only is it a relatively realistic target to reach, but with so many great watches readily available under that…

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11.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Want the ladies to notice your watch? Here are 5 steps to impress

Editor’s note: We all love a little bit of attention, right? And for a watch guy, one of the best feelings in the world is when someone notices what’s on your wrist. Even if it is just another one of the watch fam. But what if it’s someone else you’re trying to dazzle, a lady perhaps? To find out, read on … Firstly, let’s not delude ourselves: your timepiece is going to impress more men than women. That’s a given. Unless, of course, it’s awful. If that’s the case, you’ll be slaying precisely no one — and also, how did you find…

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10.10.2018

NEWS: More than Moonwatches – these are the Omegas you can expect to spot in new moon film First Man

If you happen to be a watch fan or a space enthusiast, this Thursday in Australia is the day you’ve been waiting for, with the opening of Universal Pictures’ First Man. Based on the book by James R. Hansen, the movie chronicles the life of Neil Armstrong in the years leading up to the historic Apollo 11 mission to the moon in 1969. It’s directed by Oscar-winning director Damien Chazelle, and stars known watch collector Ryan Gosling. It should come as no surprise then that a movie about the moon landing is also going to be Omega watch-spotting heaven. If you’re…

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10.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: From $6k to $60k, 6 reasons to love a classic chronograph

Editor’s note: When I began the hunt for my first “good” watch I came up with a list of certain criteria: a black dial, 40 – 44 mm case size, and good looks. However, the main one was that it needed to be a chronograph. It was the added allure of a more complex inside paired with an incredibly useful function that made the complication an absolute must-have in my eyes. Whether you feel the same, or have your own preferences, there’s more than one reason to love a chronograph. In fact, here are six … Chronographs are amongst the most…

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09.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Can TAG Heuer’s affordable tourbillon match it with the big dogs?

Editor’s note: An affordable Swiss-made tourbillon. Words like that were once considered something of an oxymoron. That all changed, however, when in 2016, TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer-02T came along, causing something of a stir amongst the watchmaking elite. Well, with this year’s release of the chronometer grade TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Tête de Vipère, those shock waves are once again being felt. And we thought we’d revisit this interview with Director of the Research Institute for the Watch Division at LVMH, Mr Guy Sémon. With Felix asking the big questions, and seeking out just what it is that has the industry talking.…

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07.10.2018

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronometer – streamlined and launched in luxury

In my eyes there’s no better backdrop than the French Riviera to launch a luxury dive watch. And it seems Ulysse Nardin think so too, unveiling four new iterations of their Diver Chronometer amongst the glamour and affluence at this year’s Monaco Yacht Show. Plotting a cleaner bearing for the collection with a host of aesthetic updates. Beginning with four brand new textured dials that replace the wave pattern found on the previous version of the Diver Chronometer. There are two regular production models – a deep blue and an all-black dial version — plus two limited editions: the grey-dialled…

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07.10.2018

WHAT SEALED THE DEAL: On Nathan’s Omega Speedmaster “Tintin”

The story of Omega’s Speedmaster “Tintin” is the tale of a watch that almost never was. The same goes for Nathan and his red-and-white chequered dial Speedy. When did you first see/hear about it? I have always found the most interesting watches to be unique variations of classic designs. The Tintin fits this description perfectly, and from the moment I saw it online, I knew I would eventually own one. It was actually a few years after it had been revealed that I decided to do a bit more research. What I uncovered was the most intriguing story about a…

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06.10.2018

NEWS: All watches sell at Sotheby’s auction of Robin Williams’ collection

Last month, we filled you guys in on “6 oddball watches of an oddball comedian”, following the announcement that Sotheby’s would be auctioning various collections of art, furniture and watches that Robin Williams shared with his second wife, Marsha Garces Williams. Well, the results are in, and wrapping up the New York auction with a sale total of just over $6 million USD, the majority of the 310 lots sold. As we expected, all 44 watches sold for more than their auction estimates. The biggest earner was a gold-plated rectangular quartz Hamilton that Williams wore during filming of Dead Poets…

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04.10.2018

HANDS-ON: Historical pedigree – the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 42mm

Here at Time+Tide we are constantly finding ourselves getting caught up in what’s new and improved – taking it upon ourselves to keep you guys updated on the latest in watch releases (it’s a tough job, I know, but someone has to do it). Every once in a while, however, we like to look back and catch up on the ones we missed. And, well, frankly we also love a chronograph, so we couldn’t resist getting our hands on Zenith’s Chronomaster El Primero 42mm. It doesn’t matter if you’re a seasoned collector or a fresh-faced newcomer to the world of…

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03.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Need to grab & go? Take a look at these Seiko Prospex divers

Editor’s note: As much as I enjoy my morning ritual of choosing, winding, and setting my watch for the day ahead, I am not a morning person. And sometimes all I want to do is grab & go. That’s where watches like this pair of solar-powered Seiko Prospex divers come in handy. Hotter than hot, they both offer a rock-solid option that is ready and waiting to take on the day, even when I’m not. Seiko has just released three limited edition black divers, and they couldn’t be hotter. We’ve already shown you the automatic SRPC49K, but there are two solar…

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02.10.2018

OPINION: Regrets, I’ve had a few – how to handle buyer’s remorse

I think we’ve all found ourselves in a similar situation to this before: you wake up, the morning after a big night out and all is seemingly well. At least until the night’s events start trickling back into your mind’s eye, and an odd sensation begins to stir deep down inside, giving you the feeling that things are not quite as they should be. You then roll over and notice something lying there next to you, something that in the unforgiving morning light is not what you were first expecting to see … Flashing before your eyes is a notification…

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30.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Ulysse Nardin prove that when the old world meets the new world, great things can happen

Editor’s note: For a little under two centuries, Ulysse Nardin have been making marine chronometers fit for the captains and commanders of the ocean. In recent years, however, with watches like their Freak and Executive Skeleton collections, they’ve quickly propelled themselves to the forefront of watchmaking — being the first to use the innovative material silicon in their movements. The Marine Chronometer Torpilleur combines the best of both those worlds, so without further ado … Story in a second The Marine Chronometer Torpilleur shows a new, focused and driven face of Ulysse Nardin. I’m going to start this review talking not…

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29.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: This Laureato is the reason why you should always bet on black

Editor’s note: What is it about an all-black watch that really gets the heart racing? I mean, it’s a neutral colour, like white, silver, or grey, yet just by adding a heavy dose of toner, an entire watch can be transformed. Case (and dial, and strap) in point, the black ceramic Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm. A luxury sports watch made, well, sportier. Since its surprise reveal a little over a year ago, the Laureato has become an increasingly significant player in the luxury sports category, thanks to its crowd-pleasing good looks and impressive mechanics. SIHH 2018 showed us that the Laureato is…

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28.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Are you as sad as us to see Audemars Piguet leave SIHH? Maybe this will help

Editor’s note: In case you missed it, this week we were told that from 2020 onward, both Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet would no longer be showing at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), as they shift their focus 100 per cent to their boutiques and customers, and look to spread their releases throughout the entire year. Well, needless to say, the news had us feeling a little down in the dumps. I’m not sure if this is going to help or hinder, but now seems as good a time as any to look back in delight at one of…

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28.09.2018

HANDS-ON: Tantalising Tantalum – the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Limited Edition

Tantalum, what’s that, I hear you say. Well, allow me to explain. Tantalum is a highly corrosion-resistant bluish-grey metal with an extreme hardness and high boiling point. Which are the exact qualities you want in a dive watch, but also qualities that make Tantalum incredibly difficult to work with – and the reason why the material is not often seen in the watch industry. However, when Omega first released the Seamaster Diver 300M in 1993, their flagship model was a tri-coloured chronograph (ref 2296.80) that included a case made from titanium, tantalum, and rose gold. Twenty-five years later, the combination…

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27.09.2018

LIST: 5 utterly useless complications and why we love them

The most straightforward definition of the word complication is “a difficulty”. But not to state the obvious, nothing is simple about being complicated. And as watchmakers and watch lovers know, when it comes to watches and their complications, there’s far more than just their difficulty of design and manufacture to appreciate. These added intricacies built into a watch’s movement provide extra functionality that many of us find incredibly handy to use. But are they all really that useful? Not really, but we love them anyway. Here are five examples where usefulness is trumped by straight up awesomeness. The Planetarium Showing…

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27.09.2018

LIST: 3 rockers that could rock the Raymond Weil Tango Marshall Limited Edition

It’s all about the music, man, it’s always been about the music. At least it is for Raymond Weil. And the Swiss-made brand’s Music Icon Series. Not only does it feature limited-edition tributes to artists such as Bob Marley, David Bowie and The Beatles, but it also pays homage to the instruments and equipment that brought these iconic performers their god-like status on stage. Introduced at Baselworld 2018, the latest in Raymond Weil’s line of musical collaborations is with famed amp maker Marshall. Known for their signature Marshall “crunch” sound, the British manufacturer of guitar amplifiers and loudspeaker cabinets holds…

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25.09.2018

EVENT: Watches, whisky, Brownlows – Tissot hosts 6 of the best for AFL’s big night

Last night the Australian Football League (AFL) celebrated its night of nights, the Brownlow Medal. Regarded as one of the most important events on the Australian sporting calendar, it’s akin to American Football’s Heisman Trophy or the world game’s Ballon d’Or. Needless to say, it’s kind of a big deal around these parts. Especially (at least for us) when there are watches involved. At an intimate event held just prior to the players’ stroll down the red carpet, Tissot welcomed six of the league’s best to their Brownlow Suite at the Crown Towers Crystal Villa room — fitting each one…

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25.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Does the Seamaster make the Bond? Here are 4 of the best

Editor’s note: The year is 1995, and James Bond has returned to Russia to retrieve the stolen access codes for “Goldeneye”, a deadly satellite weapon system that has fallen into the hands of his toughest adversary yet — the once believed dead former agent 006. Armed with his trusty Walther PPK, he must save the world and get the girl, all while wearing the Omega Seamaster Professional 300m on his wrist. Fans of the series will know this is the very first time we see the agent with a licence to kill wearing an Omega. This year the watch that is the…

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16.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: If you love watches, then you need to know these 5 Breguet inventions

Editor’s note: There are certain words and terms that get thrown around a lot here in watchland. We should know, we’re more than guilty of it. While some can be pretty self-explanatory, others require a more in-depth description. And although this list – which we first published a couple of years ago – doesn’t quite explain them all. It does tick a few off. And they all happen to be invented by Breguet. Every year at Baselworld I attend a technical presentation from Breguet. I’m ushered into a small room, introduced to Swiss gentlemen who work in the brand’s R&D…

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15.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Forget about bell-bottom jeans, the ’70s was all about stellar watch designs

Editor’s note: Let’s be honest, there are a few fashion mistakes from the ’70s that are best left forgotten. But it wasn’t all platforms and hip-huggers, no. When it comes to watches, there are some standout design hits that are more than deserving of a remastered tribute. Take Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s for example… We’ve come to associate Fifty Fathoms with minimalistic dials, so this Day Date model – one of three new pieces released at Baselworld 2018 to mark the 65th anniversary of the original diving watch – is a real shift in style. This doesn’t…

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15.09.2018

LIST: 5 microbrand watches for $500 and under

What I love about the microbrand watch companies is that they’re run by guys and gals like you and me. The kind of people that appreciate watches, and find excitement in a unique dial or case design while getting a buzz out of a new complication or movement. That’s not to say that the bigger brands aren’t equally as passionate. In fact, some of the most enthusiastic folk I’ve met are in charge of the biggest names in the business. It’s just that seeing someone who’s just like me start up a watch company and design the type of watch…

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14.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 8 watches that show just how much the celebrity factor is worth

Editor’s note: A couple of days ago I announced that Sotheby’s would be auctioning 44 watches from the collection of the late great Robin Williams. And from the response it received — and in my own observations — it seems that a few of the estimates were a little modest. So just how much is the celeb factor worth? I thought I’d take us back to this one by our own numbers man, Mr Daniel Senia. And help shed some more light on the subject.  One final note: We ran this story just before Russell Crowe’s ‘Art of Divorce’ auction. Here’s how…

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14.09.2018

OPINION: Why I lie about the number of watches I own

I think we’ve all found ourselves in a similar situation. You’re at a BBQ, surrounded by friends and family, and everything is going great. The food is good, the drinks are cold, and the stereo is pumping out banger after banger, like it was playing straight from your Spotify playlist. While all around you the conversations are flowing and everyone is happily mingling. Next thing you find yourself chatting to a friend of a friend who you’ve heard of but never actually met. And they’ve just found out that you’re a watch guy. “So, you’re into watches, huh … how…

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12.09.2018

LIST: 6 oddball watches of an oddball comedian

Like for so many other people, Robin Williams was, and still is, a hero of mine. Growing up in the ’80s and ’90s, his movies and brand of wacky comedy taught me that life doesn’t always have to be so serious, that growing old was inevitable but growing up was optional. I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve watched Mrs. Doubtfire or Hook. So it came as a huge surprise when news of his sudden suicide came through on August 11, 2014. It seemed as though everyone and everything came to a standstill, while the world mourned the…

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11.09.2018

LIST: Ultra tough – 6 awesomely over-designed watches

There are watches that are tough, and then there are watches so tough that they’re guaranteed to survive in even the most extreme environments, even if you wouldn’t. We’re talking over-engineering to the point where no man has been before. Watches that can take on the most dangerous of adventures, that push far beyond the limits of the human body’s capabilities, and yet come out the other side completely intact. Here are six over-designed watches that were built for the extremes. Note: This list is not exhaustive. I could have included multiple watches from a handful of brands – special…

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11.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The world’s first modern-day men’s wristwatch gets an update

Editor’s note: The Santos has come a long way since it was first wrapped around the wrist of famed pioneering pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. What was first a small piece of mechanical genius attached to his wrist by a sliver of soft leather is now a complete collection that features an amazing QuickSwitch strap-changing system, as well as a very clever SmartLink bracelet resizing technique. What forever remains, however, is the powerful appeal of the Santos — as strong today as when those magnificent men in their flying machines first took to the skies. It’s a tricky task upgrading a storied and legendary watch…

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09.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: There’s a new Montblanc panda in(the)-house

Editor’s note: There are certain designs in watchmaking that never fail to hit all the right notes. And a panda dial is one of those instances. I mean, there’s a reason why certain models with these exotic dials command such a huge premium at vintage watch auctions. When it comes to the latest Montblanc TimeWalker chronograph, however, it’s not just its creamy contrasting cappuccino dial that is sure to make hearts race. There’s also a solid stable of strap options, a ceramic bezel, and an impressive in-house column wheel chronograph movement. Earlier this year I had a chance to have a…

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08.09.2018

LIST: 6 of the best Longines Heritage releases

Right now in the world of watchmaking, there’s a distinctly warm and fuzzy feeling of nostalgia in the air. A sentiment that is owed in no small part to Longines, who more than 10 years ago pioneered the popular heritage reissue trend we all know and love today. With a history that stretches back over the better part of the last two centuries, the winged-hourglass brand has a vast, and rather historically important, back catalogue to choose from. And with plenty to inspire the Saint-Imier watchmaker, the Heritage collection is full of our favourites. Longines Heritage 1945 As part of…

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07.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: PART 2 – Why I’ll always be a ‘vintage watch guy’

Editor’s note: Following on from our revisit of Felix’s divisive bombshell yesterday, where he confessed and made some rather good arguments as to why vintage reissues are the way to go, we thought it only fair to also share the other side of the coin — the side that not only shows a little more patina, but wears it with pride. As written by Julian Sack, friend of Time+Tide and avid vintage watch collector.  I’m a watch collector. I didn’t know it when my father gave me an IWC after my graduation, but in the years and decades since, I’ve realised that collecting…

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06.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: PART 1 – Why I’m no longer a ‘vintage watch guy’

Editor’s note: For Felix, there was once a time when anything over 40mm was too big, and like wine, he would say watches only got better with age. But the times they are a-changin’, and we’re not all the same people we once were. He makes some very good points in this little piece of opinionated writing that he first dropped on us back in 2016. While it’s not quite vintage, we thought it was worth a reissue … When I first started getting seriously into watches, I was all about vintage. In my mind this is where it was at.…

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05.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Money burning a hole in your pocket? Team T+T pick 5 perfect impulse buys

Editor’s note: Numbers are hard, I much prefer words. If you’re like me, then you’ve been a little slow when it comes to filing your tax return. I’m sure that most of you, however, are a little more responsible when it comes to your accounting. And that sweet, sweet cash is already on its way to your bank account. Maybe it’s already there, or maybe you just happen to have a few extra dollars sitting around, just waiting for the perfect opportunity to present itself. Well, a few months ago, Felix asked each of us in the Time+Tide office just…

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05.09.2018

HANDS-ON: Skeleton thin – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue

If you’ve been following us, or Bulgari for that matter, you’ll already know that this year is the year of the Octo. From solid gold automatic thinness, to ultra high-tech insides, the record-breaking collection has gone from strength to strength. And one of this year’s barely-there hits sees the Octo Finissimo Skeleton – which we first saw in 2016 – made available in a titanium case and set off with surreal highlights of blue. This is going to sound cliché, but considering that the case design of the Octo is inspired by the uniquely octagonal lines of the Roman Maxentius…

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04.09.2018

INTRODUCING: Quartz traveller – the Grand Seiko Sport 9F86 Quartz GMT Collection

When jetting off overseas, I like to pack light and travel easy. Between checking-in and shuffling my way through airport security and customs, to managing the sleepy-eyed excitement, that usually leads to increased bouts of forgetfulness. For me, the entire experience must be as uncomplicated as possible. That’s where a very handy GMT watch comes in. And scheduled for release in the next six months, Grand Seiko has just announced three brand-new dual-time-telling additions. Combining the dependability and high-end ability of Grand Seiko’s 9F quartz calibre with the functionality of a GMT. As synonymous with Grand Seiko as Zaratsu polishing and…

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03.09.2018

INTRODUCING: Altered carbon – the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Carbon Collection

Welcome to the land of tomorrow! No, you haven’t just stumbled out of a cryogenic chamber, à la Futurama. TAG Heuer have just unveiled the most modern version yet of their decisive dive watch, the Aquaracer 300M, sporting a brand-new carbon costume, and available in three different colourways. Starting today, each carbon-based model will be available exclusively through TAG Heuer boutiques and online around the globe. Blacked-out with a PVD coating, each version features a 41mm Grade 5 titanium case, and is then topped by a unidirectional rotating bezel that’s been crafted by a random injection of carbon fibres into…

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30.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: It all started with a Big Bang! Now Hublot’s hero is a bit smaller

Editor’s note: Hublot’s heart beats to the rhythm of the in-house Unico movement. So it makes sense that their centrepiece collection, the Big Bang — with its heavily open-worked dial — is where the Art of Fusion brand shows it off. This year, they slimmed down the dimensions of their 2010-born Unico HUB 1242 movement, dubbing it the HUB 1280 and popping it inside a selection of smaller-sized cases. From King Gold to titanium, and a few stops in between, this is the thinner and slimmer 42mm Hublot Big Bang Unico Chronograph. Amidst the pile of big and bold Hublot offerings at…

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30.08.2018

WATCHSPOTTING: Chris Hemsworth schools the internet on how to casually wear a simple gold watch

We here at Time+Tide are particularly proud of Australian actor Chris Hemsworth … all right, we man-crush hard on the big fella. And not just because of his ruggedly handsome good looks, which give us regular Aussie men a good name around the world, but because the dude just gets how to wear watches. In GQ’s latest episode of YouTube series “Actually Me”, the Hollywood star goes not-so-deep undercover, creating real accounts for websites Quora, Twitter and IMDB, amongst a few others. And answering questions while flexing his Aussie-bred brand of humour. What captured our attention, though, wasn’t the fact that…

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29.08.2018

HANDS-ON: Sun and sea combined – the Seiko Prospex ‘Save The Ocean’ SSC675P

What do whales, chronographs and solar charging have in common? And no, I’m not talking about a hypothetical scheme involving Elon Musk, and the launching of an around the world race, with solar-powered propellers attached to specially trained whales. Cool as that may be – although probably not humane – all three things become one in the Seiko Prospex ‘Save The Ocean’ SSC675P. If you’re not already familiar with this year’s ‘Save The Ocean’ series by Seiko, a portion of all sales from each of the series’ three models goes towards saving the ocean. With Seiko working in conjunction with noted…

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27.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: No longer just for Polo players – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface

Editor’s note: From a sports watch to a dress watch. The evolution of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has seen it transform like night and day. And the icon that is now more associated with suits and ties, rather than mallets and sticks, is made even grander here in a pink gold case and duelling dials of wondrous textures. Believe it or not, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the original sports watches. The oft-quoted origin story about this iconic rectangle is that it was the dusty polo fields of colonial India that gave birth to the reversible watch, which could be easily…

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25.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate IWC Pilot’s Chronograph?

Editor’s note: As far as birthdays go, 150 years is a whopper. And amongst all the shimmer and shine of IWC’s celebratory jubilee collection sits this lusciously lacquered new dial variant of the perennially popular IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph. Silky smooth white dial, crisp blue hands, and an in-house made movement. Does it get any better? By now you’ve likely been beaten over the head with the endless coverage of IWC’s cool Tribute to Pallweber, with its jumping hours and minutes, and  seen the additions to the growing Portofino collection. Hiding in the corner of IWC’s presentation, alongside a pair of Big Pilot…

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24.08.2018

INTRODUCING: Bridging time – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon

The release of Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato collection has been anything but a slow burn. Beginning in 2016 with a limited-edition tribute to the 1975 original, the La Chaux-de-Fonds based manufacturer wasted no time in expanding their offerings. And in 2017 they released a fully-fledged collection of three-handed sports watches. This year, we not only see sporty chronographs and a selection of wonderfully open-worked dials added to the mix but also a tourbillon in an all-titanium body. For students of watch history, the tourbillon forms an integral part of Girard-Perregaux’s identity. Ever since the centuries-old watchmaker won gold for the legendary La…

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21.08.2018

HANDS-ON: The night owl friendly Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Horolum

It’s not unusual to see high-flyers Bell & Ross take inspiration from the world of aviation. In fact, it’s almost expected. However, the latest addition to their “Horo” label does it with a far more “grounded” perspective. Finding its muse in the practical aesthetic of an airport runway. Following on from last year’s three-handed Horolum, the Parisian brand has taken the next logical step and added a chronograph, featuring all the utilitarian styling of the original that’s sure to please the tool watch crowd. Beginning with the brand’s ever-popular BR-03 square case design, the BR 03-94 Horolum uses a 42mm…

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20.08.2018

INTRODUCING: Ocean blue barrels – the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Blue

Magical cylindrical tunnels of water. Riding inside a barrelling wave is considered by some to be the be-all and end-all of surfing. And while Hublot’s latest addition to the Spirit of Big Bang collection doesn’t exactly call for a rashie or a coating of wax, it does capture the essence of the sea, with an azure-coloured barrel-shaped case. Exclusive to Hublot boutiques and limited to 100 numbered pieces worldwide, the trademarked tonneau-shaped case measures 42mm across and perfectly captures the brand’s “Art of Fusion” mantra. Crafted from microblasted and polished blue ceramic, it features white composite resin side inserts, a…

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18.08.2018

LIST: 11 of the greatest Grand Seikos – and why they matter

Just 10 years ago, buying a Grand Seiko meant either having to buy a plane ticket to Japan, convincing a relative/friend/acquaintance/that-guy-you-met-one-time to buy a ticket to Japan, or navigating your way around Japanese online retailers – searching every page for an image of your heart’s desire and then using Google translate to confirm that they even offered international shipping. You see, despite having a history that stretches back to 1960, it wasn’t until 2010 that Grand Seiko was properly introduced to the world. Once one of Japan’s best kept secrets, Grand Seiko was born from Seiko’s desire to show the…

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15.08.2018

INTRODUCING: This one has the time, now all you need is the jet – the Franck Muller Vanguard World Timer GMT

Invented in the 1930s by Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier, world time watches brought – at a glance and all at once – the time across 24 of the world’s key time zones to the hands of international jetsetters and business-makers. Indeed, no complication provides a greater desire to conquer the world, or induces a greater sense of adventure, especially if it’s made by a watchmaker as adventurous as Franck Muller and then packed inside the curvaceous Vanguard case. Vital statistics As you may have guessed, if not just from the name but perhaps from the centralised world map encircled by…

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08.08.2018

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 in black ceramic – 55 years on and still going strong

They say your 50s are the new 30s. I’m not sure who ‘they’ are, and why exactly they say that. But just Google “celebrities in their 50s” and you’ll see that maybe they are on to something (Halle Berry and Tom Cruise, amirite?). Well, this year marks 55 years of the TAG Heuer Carrera, and the motorsport-inspired collection is looking good. Never before has it been more diverse or all-encompassing, featuring everything from sporty three-handers to GMTs, tourbillons, and, of course, chronographs. The Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 is TAG Heuer’s modern take on their original racing chronograph. And this version…

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29.07.2018

HANDS-ON: Three hands and a whole lot of dial – the Seiko Presage Shippo Enamel Limited Edition SPB075

For me, the appeal of a watch’s dial is perhaps its biggest selling point. Too bland and I’m not interested, too busy and it’s not for me. There’s a fine line between pleasure and pain. Luckily for me, though, it’s always a pleasure when I get a chance to spend some time with the Seiko Presage collection, which combines the Japanese brand’s love of traditional craftsmanship and their mechanical know-how with an affordable price tag. Once available only in Japan, the collection was finally made available to the rest of the world in 2016. And let me tell you, this…

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28.07.2018

LIST: The British are coming! 8 of Britain’s best watches

There’s a revolution afoot! And it’s taking place on British shores. While the world – admittedly, us included – tends to focus a lot more on watchmaking of the continental kind, the wonderful world of modern watches mightn’t be where it is today without the innovations and inventions brought to us by the British watchmaking industry. In 1755, Thomas Mudge invented the lever escapement; John Harwood introduced automatic winding in 1924, and let’s not forget George Daniels’ invention and 1980 patent of the ingenious co-axial escapement. Well, British watchmaking is back. Thanks largely to bespoke manufacturers, tea-loving microbrands, and the…

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25.07.2018

INTRODUCING: Three times the charm – the Franck Muller Vanguard Master Banker Skeleton

If watch brands were Facebook relationship statuses, Franck Muller would be “It’s complicated”. Not because the Swiss-based manufacturer has commitment problems but, rather, quite the opposite. Since its beginnings in Genthod – located in the countryside of Geneva – the innovative brand has been committed to upholding its reputation as the “Master of Complications”. And the latest addition to the enduring Master Banker collection shows off its inner intricacies with a fully skeletonised dial and movement. Vital statistics The perfect picture inside the elegant curves of the trademark Vanguard case. The open-worked dial not only gives view through to the…

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24.07.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: History made modern – The Seiko 1968 Automatic Diver’s Modern Re-interpretations

Editor’s note: To misquote the late US founding father Mr Benjamin Franklin, there are only three absolute certainties in life: death, taxes, and the incredibly high quality-to-value ratio of the Seiko Prospex collection. Had Seiko been around during his time I’m sure my version of his famous words wouldn’t be too far off the mark. But I digress. This year at Baselworld the Japanese brand expanded the ever-popular Prospex range, calling on one of their most important historical designs and revamping it for the modern wrist. It’s safe to say that I may fear death and the tax office, but I’ll always have…

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23.07.2018

ROCKSPOTTING: Dwayne Johnson goes full milspec in his latest blockbuster, Skyscraper

From the People’s Champion to the people’s choice. Over the past year, semi-retired professional wrestler and Hollywood megastar Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson has earned himself $US125 million, the highest-ever total for acting in the 20-year history of the Forbes’ Highest-Paid Celebrity List – which ranks him at number five, and up 17 spots from last year’s list. All that money isn’t for nothing either, with the hardest-working man in Hollywood lighting up countless box offices the world over. His latest all-action film, Skyscraper, sees him play a former FBI agent and US war veteran who now assesses security in skyscrapers.…

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23.07.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: A strong everyday option – the Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph

Editor’s note: “What watch would you recommend to someone who wants just one do-it-all piece, and that doesn’t require a remortgaging of the family home?” As someone who writes about watches on the daily, this is one of the most common questions I get asked. Usually right after, “How many watches do you own?” While I do love answering the question, it first requires the asker answering a few questions of my own: “What do they do every day? What’s their style?” If they tick all the right boxes, it’s hard to go past the Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph. A stylish, versatile and sporty value-driven…

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22.07.2018

LIST: The $20K fantasy watch collection challenge – readers only edition

Last week the entire Time+Tide team were posed a challenge. The premise was simple: construct a hypothetical watch collection with as many watches as we liked for as close to $20,000 AUD as possible. The only other stipulation — we couldn’t choose any watches that we currently own. Well, we had a lot of fun, and if the reaction on social media was anything to go by, you guys did too. To be honest, so much fun was had, we thought we’d keep the ball rolling and post a few of our favourite dream collections that you, our readers, sent us.…

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20.07.2018

LIST: 7 tough watches that could help save the world in Mission: Impossible – Fallout

Back for its sixth instalment, the all-action franchise returns to the big screen with Mission: Impossible — Fallout. And sees IMF agent Ethan Hunt – played by Tom Cruise – and his crew of undercover specialists take on the bad guys, doing whatever it takes to save the world from certain nuclear destruction, with what’s sure to be another action-packed adventure, full of insane stunts and death-defying set pieces. I thought I’d join in on the fun and make a few helpful tough watch recommendations. And in true Mission: Impossible style, equip each one with an idea for its own spy tech…

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17.07.2018

OPINION: An open letter to those that I’ve wrist stalked

To all the strangers on the streets, in the cafes, and just generally going about your own business … I have no shame in admitting that I am a wrist stalker. If you’re a regular reader, then chances are you’re one, too. We all do it. Some of us are just better than others and can pick a watch from across the room with only the hint of a bezel or a clasp. I’m not one to normally blow my own trumpet, but call me Louis Armstrong, because that’s me. Others, though, tend to get themselves into trouble, going for…

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04.07.2018

HANDS-ON: The Spinnaker Bradner – a stylish retro diver for under $300

Anyone who knows me knows that I like things a little different from the norm. I’m a sucker for interesting dials and case shapes, pops of colour, and fresh takes on old designs. That’s not to say that I don’t also appreciate the classics, but I do like some uniqueness. So when I was given the chance to take a look at the latest release from relative newcomers to the watch industry, Spinnaker, I knew they’d have something interesting to offer. A brand that I had seen popping up more and more on my insta-feed lately, Spinnaker’s latest release, the…

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02.07.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: What’s cooler than being cool? The Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake

Editor’s note: With temperatures dropping, winter has officially arrived Down Under. And although the mornings are now crisp and our evenings chilly, unfortunately for us, as we dust off our cable knits and scarves, our streets are unlikely to ever be covered in a sprinkling of the white stuff.  Still, we dream dreams of snow and ice. And with this week being all about Grand Seiko for us here in the Time+Tide office, we thought there’s no better watch to remind us of winter wonderlands than the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake. Grand Seiko’s famous ‘Snowflake’ has been with us for quite some time now (it was first…

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29.06.2018

WATCHSPOTTING: Hublot at the FIFA World Cup 2018

It’s FIFA World Cup time! And with the 2018 competition well underway, it’s been easy to tell who the soccer fans are in Australia right now. We’re the bleary-eyed zombies passed out at our desks or aimlessly shuffling about the streets. The ones who have spent the last two weeks staying up way too late and starting our days way too early, trying to catch every minute of football action (ah, the joys of living on the other side of the world). And while the world game tournament has been more than entertaining for us football fanatics – though perhaps…

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11.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Work getting in the way of your watch love? Here are 9 surefire tips to hiding the obsession

Editor’s note: Work. It’s one of life’s unavoidable necessities. And for us watch folk, a place that if we’re not careful, our choice of wrist-wear and love of watches can lead to a spot of trouble. Especially now, when the year’s brand-new releases are hitting the storefronts and there is research and shortlisting to be done. While HR are no use, we have your back here at T+T. And although we can’t help you towards an early retirement, or even write you a sick note, we can help you hide your obsession in the office with these 9 helpful hints from Mr Andy…

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11.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The seafaring origins of the Franck Muller Yachting collection

Editor’s note: Add a splash of maritime to the wrist with fine naval details dispersed from its bow to its stern. Recently we covered the latest super-yacht-friendly release from the master of complications, the Franck Muller Vanguard S6 Yachting. So what better time to revisit the seagoing origins of the Yachting collection? And take a look back to where it all began, with this blue-dialled version that’s equally as nautical and just as vanguard. The last time we had Franck Muller in the office it was a bold Vanguard clad in sinister black and red – a watch that was at once sporty and menacing. Today…

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10.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: What’s not to love about the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph?

Editor’s note: The perennially popular IWC Pilot’s Chronograph is one of those iconic modern tool watches that can pull off almost any occasion, thanks to its handsomely utilitarian design. To prove just how versatile it is, Andy recently spent some time with the Spitfire at Goodwood. And while I could start waxing lyrical about the much loved classic or by quoting Top Gun, I’ll stop myself and hand it over to my wingman Felix to buzz the tower (sorry not sorry). If you’ve been paying even marginal attention to IWC over the past seven months, you’ll have noticed it’s on a bit of…

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09.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The honeymoon continues – another year on with the Tudor Pelagos LHD

Editor’s note: Well, it’s been a year since this one was first published. And while a lot has changed over the last 12 months, a few things remain the same. I keep getting older, like a kid on Christmas morning I still look forward to even-numbered days, and I still love a strap change. Most importantly, though, the LHD is still on my wrist and it looks and feels as good today as it did when I first picked it up.   Late last year I celebrated a milestone birthday, turning the big three-zero. After coming to terms with the death of my twenties…

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08.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at Blancpain’s commitment to the ocean for World Oceans Day

Editor’s note: Observed every year on June 8, World Oceans Day seeks to honour, help protect, and remind us all of the exceptional need to conserve the world’s oceans. A day that us, as a bunch of sea-loving Aussies in the T+T office, can most certainly get behind. And a day that we thought perfect to revisit these 12  pictures and their stories that were graciously shared with us from the pages of Blancpain’s Edition Fifty Fathoms by its editor, Dietmar Fuchs. Each year as part of the Blancpain Ocean Commitment project, 12 of the world’s best underwater photos are showcased in the…

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07.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Predicting reissues may not be our forte, but here’s one of the best from 2017

Editor’s note: Following on from Felix’s post on Sunday, we were reminded that when it comes to predicting Baselworld watch releases, we don’t always get it exactly right. Especially when it comes to reissues. Whether it’s our own wants and desires that are trying to swing the vote towards something we’d like to see (I’m looking at you Omega … cough … Flightmaster). Or that in this ever-evolving and ever-growing industry there is bound to be watches that we just plumb forgot about. In either case, one that we absolutely did not see coming last year at Baselworld 2017 was this handsome little…

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05.06.2018

NEWS: A Steve McQueen Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 to be auctioned by Phillips

That’s right, a Rolex Submariner owned and gifted by the King of Cool will go under the hammer at Phillips auction house in New York on October 25. A year after the blockbuster sale of Paul Newman’s Paul Newman Daytona. It’s not just the timing of the sale that these two celebrity watches share either, with McQueen’s 1964 Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 sharing a similar story of provenance, complete with a few extra burning details. Phillips tell us the watch was purchased by McQueen in the 1960s. It was then gifted by him to his long-time stunt double Loren Janes,…

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04.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Does the Rolex Batman still hold its own, now that there’s a new red and blue hero on the block?

Editor’s note: You don’t have to be one of Gotham’s finest to figure out that the all new, all ‘Oystersteel’ ‘Pepsi’ GMT-Master II was one of the biggest releases to come out of Baselworld this year. The hype was real. And with all this talk of two-colour bezels, we got to wondering around the T+T office, if this one — the first of the Rolex ceramic bezels to get the bi-colour treatment — can hold its own against its brand-new red and blue younger sibling. While we wait for the first deliveries of Pepsi to be made, and to find out just how the Batman stacks up,…

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01.06.2018

HANDS-ON: The Tudor Black Bay GMT – Pepsi is the new Black (Bay)

Look back at Baselworld predictions over the last few years, and you’re likely to see a GMT from Tudor topping the list. Sure, some of us may have expected to see that little extra hour-telling-hand added to the Pelagos. But with the ever growing – and hugely popular – Black Bay collection proving to be the perfect base from which to begin, particularly after the introduction of the chronograph last year, I think it’s safe to say that we were all pleasantly surprised when Tudor unveiled a bicoloured Black Bay GMT this year at Basel. The Baselworld surprises didn’t stop…

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30.05.2018

NEWS: This season’s last watch auction delivers 4 unique watches you’ve probably never seen, and may never see again

Over the last few weeks, all eyes have been on the major watch auctions taking place around the world, with more than a few standout results achieved for several interesting and unique watches. Wrapping up the spring sale season, Phillips yesterday held the Hong Kong Watch Auction: Six, with a total of 231 lots going under the hammer. As expected, Daytonas are still selling at premium prices, and rare and exciting Speedmasters are continuing their upward trend. What piqued our interest however (and by the look of the results, bidders’ interests as well) were these four incredibly rare — and possibly…

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30.05.2018

LIST: Never get bored in the boardroom again with these 3 takes on the Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton Tourbillon

There are two sides to Ulysse Nardin. One built on the high seas, and historically home to highly accurate marine chronometers. And another that pushes the boundaries of what’s possible in watchmaking, bursting with technical marvels and avant-garde designs. Falling heavily into the latter category is the Executive Skeleton Tourbillon. First introduced in 2016, its 45mm ultra-lightweight titanium case is topped off by a black ceramic bezel and a dial that allows full view through to the openworked UN-171 movement within. Showcasing what Ulysse Nardin does best. The movement features an impressive 170-hour power reserve, as well as a flying…

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29.05.2018

HANDS-ON: Vintage style, solid build and lume for days – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

The watch industry is a well-oiled novelty-making machine. Every year it produces a sea of new releases that quickly turns the tide of attention from the old towards the latest and greatest in the world of watchmaking. Occasionally, though, it’s nice to stop and look back on the watches that we might have missed. Watches like this one: the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. With a brand history that dates back to the American railroad in 1891, and more than a couple of technically nifty details, I quickly jumped at the chance to try one out in the metal.…

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27.05.2018

LIST: Follow the two-tone yellow gold road to find some great value vintage watches

It’s no secret that the vintage watch market is booming. Take a peek at recent results from the big watch auctions by the likes of Phillips and Christie’s and you’ll see that prices are on the rise. Great news for those who have collections that are more akin to a retirement nest egg. But for us lesser folk who are just looking to find our way into the game, it’s becoming increasingly hard to find good value vintage timepieces. However, while the market may be dark and full of terrors, there’s still hope. Take two-tone, for example. Once trendy steel…

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26.05.2018

RECOMMENDED READING: Who needs sleep? LVMH watch boss Jean-Claude Biver shares his tips for productivity

At Baselworld this year, I met Mr Biver for the very first time. And I can say, with complete conviction, that he was every bit the personality and man I expected him to be. He is one of the rare few who has well and truly left his mark on Swiss watchmaking. And played a big part in bringing the industry back from the brink of the ’70s “quartz crisis”. He’s also at his absolute best in this short interview with Wired, where he gives insight into his time in the industry and how he makes the most of his…

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20.05.2018

OPINION: Sky-high Rolex prices are the best thing to happen to vintage and modern Omega since Bond

Last weekend we saw Geneva play host to a handful of watch auctions, with the likes of Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s descending on the city and dropping some hammers. As the dust settled, it yet again became clear that vintage Rolex reigns supreme, with the Daytona Ultimatum sale at Phillips selling all 32 of its lots, and bringing in over 22,000,000 CHF. The big one in the mix – the one-of-a-kind white gold Daytona, dubbed the “Unicorn” – gave buyers some kind of a horn, selling for 5,937,500 CHF, making it the second most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction. While…

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17.05.2018

HANDS-ON: The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph

At Baselworld this year we saw Rado doubling down with two new limited-edition versions of their everyday and sporty HyperChrome chronograph. The first version, the HyperChrome Bronze, takes its form inside a case crafted from a combination of high-tech ceramic and bronze. While the second opens up its ceramic case, foregoing a traditional dial and skeletonizing the movement. Earlier this week I went hands-on with the patina-friendly bronze version, and today it’s time to take a peek at (and through) the stripped back dial of the aptly named HyperChrome Skeleton. Vital statistics Consisting of an inner monobloc ceramic case with…

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11.05.2018

HANDS-ON: The Seals Watch Co Model C Field Explorer

Start a conversation about vintage wristwatches and you’ll inevitably end up down a military history rabbit hole. With collectors and everyday buyers alike appreciating – and downright loving – the connection these simple military-issued watches have to history. A history that began with the First World War, where a “luminous wristwatch with unbreakable glass” was the first item on a British officer’s kit list. Nowadays, however, you don’t need to be one of the “few good men” to own one, with no shortage of brands out there offering all the legibility, strength and usability of a great military-inspired watch. Like…

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09.05.2018

HANDS-ON: The Rado HyperChrome Bronze – ceramic meets the bronze age

Rado is synonymous with a pioneering use of high-tech ceramic in watches. Attractively sleek, the material is lightweight, hypoallergenic, and virtually scratchproof, making it perfectly suited to watchmaking. However, not so much for those of us who like our watches with a peppering of patina, and enjoy a little wabi-sabi action every now and again. That’s where the brand new Rado HyperChrome Bronze comes in. Combining one of the most modern materials in watchmaking with the world’s oldest alloy. It’s an intriguing mix. Vital statistics This limited edition of Rado’s everyday HyperChrome chronograph retains its scratch-resistant ceramic, monobloc case. Only…

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07.05.2018

HANDS-ON: The Nomos Autobahn – a surprising tribute to the famously fast highway

Styled by renowned product designer Werner Aisslinger and his creative partner Tina Bunyaprasit, the Autobahn deviates from the German brand’s usual minimalistic palette, and introduces a whole new side to the Nomos catalogue. I’ll admit that when I first saw pictures of the Autobahn, I was left scratching my head, with the automotive-inspired design (the watch is a tribute to the famously speed-limitless highway system) was not something I ever expected to see. However, after getting my hands on one – during one of the more fun appointments at this year’s Baselworld – its purpose became clear in my mind, and…

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01.05.2018

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition

In the wonderful world of Grand Seiko, if it’s not using a quartz crystal – and, yes, that includes the Spring Drive – then inside is a Caliber 9S movement. Introduced in 1998, the Caliber 9S is the staple of all mechanical Grand Seikos and forms the base for everything from humble three-handers to hi-beats and GMTs. This year, Grand Seiko are celebrating the 20th birthday of the 9S with – in addition to quite a few other LEs – the release of the Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition. Vital statistics Inside is a very “special”…

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24.04.2018

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record – going for gold

Last year, Longines doubled down with the release of the Record collection. Illustrating just how serious they are about creating classically handsome and highly accurate watches, with price tags that won’t break the bank. The result was their first ever COSC-certified collection that combined a variety of dial options and colours, with four different sizes of stainless-steel cases. I’ll admit that while the collection remained steady in the Longines wheelhouse, there was just that little something missing to completely draw me in. That was until this year when, at Baselworld 2018, Longines launched a decidedly luxe version with a blue…

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24.04.2018

HANDS-ON: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Bronze

While Bell & Ross are well known for their aviation-inspired designs, there’s another side to the French watch brand that takes them from the flight deck to the boat deck. A side that saw them introduce their first ever dive watch in 1997. The oil-filled, and more round than square, Hydromax — with an unbelievable water resistance of 11,100 metres. It’s also a side that last year welcomed their first ever square-cased dive watch, the BR 03-92 Diver. Beginning a collection, that for Baselworld 2018, grew by two. One of which is the brand new BR 03-92 Diver Bronze, which, as…

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10.04.2018

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex ‘Save the Ocean’ SRPC91K1 – the ocean hero in a half shell

Seiko have taken their affinity with the ocean to deeper depths, announcing new brand ambassador Fabien Cousteau at Baselworld 2018. The grandson of famed underwater explorer Jacques-Yves Cousteau, Fabien has dedicated his life to exploring and conserving the world’s oceans, and is founder of the Fabien Cousteau Ocean Learning Centre. As part of this new partnership, Seiko have introduced a series of Prospex ‘Save the Ocean’ special editions, with a portion of all proceeds donated to the Ocean Learning Centre. First up is my personal favourite, the Turtle. Vital statistics Essentially, it’s the same Turtle that we all know and…

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01.04.2018

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 1978 Quartz Saturation Diver’s Re-creation Limited Edition, ref. S23626

Affectionately named for its tuna-can-for-the-wrist design, the Seiko Tuna collection holds many “firsts” in the dive watch world. From being the first to feature a dual layer construction with a one-piece inner case, to introducing the accordion-style rubber strap. In 1978, it also welcomed Seiko’s – and the world’s – first foray into professional quartz dive watches, with the addition of the 600m “Golden Tuna”. Which you might have already noticed (if you’re any good at maths) is celebrating its 40th birthday at Basel 2018. Vital statistics Seiko have marked this special occasion with the release of a limited-edition re-creation…

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30.03.2018

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph GMT Heuer 02

This year marks 55 years of the Carrera, and TAG Heuer are pulling no punches when it comes to celebrating the occasion. Releasing a sporty selection of models at Baselworld 2018, which includes watches like this one — their modern take on the Carrera but with their latest in-house movement now sporting a GMT function inside. Vital statistics Last year we saw TAG Heuer downsize the skeletonised Carreras to 43mm, but this new GMT beefs things up again with a 45mm steel case. Maintaining a water resistance of 100m as well as the option of a stainless-steel bracelet or black rubber…

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28.03.2018

HANDS-ON: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, with thinner, smaller case and brand-new movement

Tudor have added another – smaller – member to the Black Bay family at Baselworld 2018. It’s inspired by the “Big Crown” (reference 7924) Submariner, and named after the year it was released. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight faithfully re-creates the smaller case size of the 7924, complete with oversized crown and introducing a brand-new calibre into the Tudor collection. Vital statistics This is the first time we’ve seen the original Black Bay design downsized. The case of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight measures a very friendly 39mm across. However, the real story is how much slimmer it now is – at just under 12mm,…

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27.03.2018

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 1968 Automatic Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB077 and SPB079

Seiko have again released a duo of modern re-interpretations of one of their OG dive watches – the Seiko 6159. Sitting alongside the modern re-creation – the newly released SLA025, which was also just revealed here at Baselworld 2018 – the pair echo the original design of Seiko’s first hi-beat diver but wrap it up in a slightly more contemporary package. Vital statistics Available in two variants, the cases are thinner and hark back to the design of the original, except now they have a screw-in case-back and measure 44mm across and 13.1mm thick. They’re also joined by thinner bezels,…

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25.03.2018

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph

Named after the Carrera Panamericana, a legendarily dangerous car racing event of the early 1950s that took place across the open roads of Mexico and was cancelled after resulting in too many fatalities. The TAG Heuer Carrera is an icon of the motorsport-inspired watch world. And this year it celebrates 55 years since its release with a stable of new releases, like this pair of heritage-inspired Carrera Calibre 16 Chronographs, released at Baselworld 2018. Vital statistics There are two colours available, a black dial and a blue. Both with contrasting white subdials and highlights of red and orange. The top…

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24.03.2018

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 1968 Automatic Diver’s Commemorative Limited Edition (ref. SLA019)

With another contemporary nod to Seiko’s original hi-beat diver – the 1968 ref. 6159 – a familiar face has received a limited-edition update. Based on the venerable Seiko MM300 dive watch, this commemorative limited edition not only pays tribute to its vintage inspiration with a host of updates, but also to the lush green forests and abundant marine life that can be found around the island of Yakushima at the southern end of the Japanese archipelago. Vital statistics The one-piece 44.3mm case is now set off with a deep green dial and zirconia ceramic bezel. And Hardlex has been replaced…

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22.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Automatic Divers Re-creation Limited Edition SLA025

Seiko’s venture into the dive watch world came hard and fast. Releasing their first dive watch in 1965, just three years later they upped the ante and introduced the Seiko 6159. A one-piece cased 300m rated diver, powered by a hi-beat movement that until then was being used only by the Grand Seikos of the time. Now, 50 years later – and revealed here at Baselworld 2018 – Seiko have re-created the original, with the brand new SLA025. Vital statistics With its black dial and bezel highlighted by polished golden hour markers, hands, and 60-minute scale, it has all the looks of the original.…

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22.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The Bell & Ross BRV Racing Birds

What if you were a brand born in a cockpit and were an ace at aviation-inspired watch designs? What would be your next step? Why, you’d design a plane, of course! And that’s exactly what Bell & Ross have done. The brainchild of Bruno Belamich – co-founder and creative director of Bell & Ross – the BR-Bird is a way-out V12-powered propeller-engine aircraft that’s designed for speed. With short, broad wings placed nearly at its tip and a single-seat cockpit set as far back as possible, the ultramodern bird was designed to compete at the Reno Air Races – an…

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21.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 114

As they did with their Calibre 111, Oris have chosen Baselworld to debut their latest in-house produced movement, with the Calibre 114, in their ever popular ProPilot collection, being launched at Basel 2018. It’s the fifth Oris-made movement to be introduced into their catalogue since 2014. This one comes with all the fun of the Calibre 111 and adds a GMT hand to the centre of the dial. Because, really, what better complication is there for a pilot’s watch? Vital statistics Not much has changed style-wise with the case of this latest ProPilot. It still measures 44mm across, is water…

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21.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Bi-Colour – a bronze and steel option in 40mm and 36mm

Without a doubt, the standout hit for Oris in recent years has been the Divers Sixty-Five, and for good reason, mind you. First released in 2015, it remained faithful to its inspiration – a model from (you guessed it) 1965 – and nailed the vintage vibe. Instantly becoming a crowd-favourite, and quickly followed up by different dial variations with applied dot and baton indices and a 42mm case, as well as bronzed beauties like the Carl Brashear limited editions. Now home to more than two dozen models, Baselworld 2018 sees the collection grow by two, with the release of the Divers…

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21.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date in blue and the brand new 36mm version available in both steel and bronze

The pointer date is one of Oris’ most recognisable complications. Making its debut in 1938, it wasn’t until it was reintroduced in 1984 that it became a regular part of the catalogue. Paired with another of Oris’ signature designs, the heritage-inspired Big Crown pilot’s watch, Baselworld 2018 sees a couple of fresh-faced dials, as well as a 36mm version cased in two very different metals, added to the family. Vital statistics What we have are two versions of the same design, one with a 40mm case, and the other with a 36mm case. Both are water resistant to 50m and have a…

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17.03.2018

LIST: 8 fast, fantastic watches of Formula One

In the world of F1, where everything is measured in tenths, watches have long played an integral part. In fact, it may come as no surprise to anyone that Formula One teams and watch manufacturers often follow the same racelines, each striving for their own breed of ultimate performance mechanical machine. This year, with the Australian Grand Prix coinciding with Baselworld, we thought we’d look back at last year’s partnerships and the watches of F1. Bell & Ross BR-X1 RS17 for the Renault Sport Formula One Team An F1 steering wheel for your wrist. The BR-X1 was one of three…

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15.03.2018

IN-DEPTH: The Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph

The story in a second: A value-packed chrono from one of the few remaining family-owned watch companies. It wasn’t all doom and gloom during the quartz crisis of the mid ’70s. While brands and manufacturers were disappearing left, right and centre, never to be seen again, others like Raymond Weil were only just starting out, which makes them a relative newcomer to the watch world. However, unlike many others, they’ve managed to remain independent and create a diverse catalogue that’s bursting at the seams with collections like the Freelancer. Introduced in 2007, it’s now one of the mainstays of their line-up,…

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10.03.2018

LIST: 5 sporty Kickstarter watches that caught our eye

Here at Time+Tide we receive a lot – and I mean A LOT – of emails from young brands directing us to their new watch launching on Kickstarter. The humble platform that began as a way for up-and-coming designers to tender their ideas – and, if they were good enough, have them brought to life – now crowded by cookie-cutter designs, each touting the same old story. Sorting the good from the less good can be a massive task. However, every now and then, through the fog of “industry disruptors” and “affordable luxury”, shine a few gems that, at least…

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02.03.2018

NEWS: Panerai open first Australian boutique in Melbourne, and 2 standout models in stock right now

If you love watches and happen to find yourself in Melbourne, Collins Street is the place to be. If you also happen to be a Paneristi (even a budding one), you now have even more of a reason to visit, with Panerai setting up shop and opening their very first Australian boutique at 360 Collins Street. The space has been designed by Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola, who chose to reflect the timeless traditions of the Florentine watch manufacturer by decorating the 60-square-metre boutique with iconic Panerai details. Warm golden-brown tones of bronze, wood and brass echo their naval origins, and…

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26.02.2018

INTRODUCING: The Bremont AIRCO Mach 3, and fresh white dials for the Mach 1 and Mach 2

Last year, Bremont launched a brand-new range of classically styled pilot watches. Named after the Aircraft Manufacturing Company Limited – one of Britain’s first military aircraft manufacturers – the AIRCO collection saw them stepping out of their 43mm-sized wheelhouse and into something a little smaller, with not one but two new 40mm models – the Mach 1 and Mach 2. This year, they’re expanding the collection and adding a set of new dial colourways, as well as the AIRCO Mach 3. Vital statistics With 100m of water resistance and a DLC-treated case barrel, the AIRCO Mach 3 carries over the exact same smaller and…

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26.02.2018

INTRODUCING: The Bremont ALT1-C gets 2 new dials

A core model of the Bremont catalogue, the satin-brushed case ALT1-C, was in fact the very first watch designed by founding brothers, Nick and Giles English. It provided the base for a collection that now includes polished cases, as well as a mix of different dial colours. However, since its launch in 2007, the original design has remained mostly unchanged. At least that was until today, with the release of two new versions of the flight-inspired chronograph. Vital statistics Let’s start with something that hasn’t changed. Inside is the same BE-50AE chronometer certified movement that’s based on the venerable Valjoux…

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26.02.2018

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Endurance

Following on from 2014’s Terra Nova limited edition, Bremont have once again teamed up with polar explorer Ben Saunders to release the Bremont Endurance. Retracing Sir Ernest Shackleton’s ill-fated journey across the South Pole, Ben wore the Endurance as he attempted to make a record-breaking first ever solo and unassisted trek across Antarctica. After 52 days, and having crossed 1086km, Ben reached the South Pole; however, without enough food to continue, he was forced to halt progress and return home. Nonetheless, he still became the first person to complete solo ski expeditions to both the North and South Poles without…

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20.02.2018

INTRODUCING: The sporty TAG Heuer Link Calibre 17 Chronograph

Last year, I went hands-on with the sleek three-handed TAG Heuer Link, which saw itself revived into the men’s collection after letting the ladies Link have the first turn in 2016. While the makeover leaned more towards the elegant side of the Link’s sporting elegance roots, this year sees a sportier return to the collection, with the introduction of a tri-compax chronograph. Vital statistics Featuring a sunray dial of either black or blue, there’s an angled date window at 4:30, accompanied by a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock, a chronograph minute counter at 9 o’clock, and an hour counter at…

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19.02.2018

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Crazy Hours 15th Anniversary collection

I don’t know about you, but the only thing on my mind when I’m at a resort on vacation is how many trips to the breakfast buffet is considered too much (more than five apparently, if the appalled looks of fellow diners was anything to go by).  However, for watchmaker and eponymous brand founder Franck Muller, holidays can be a time of more radical thinking, as it was a holiday in Mauritius that inspired the instantly recognisable (and undeniably fun) Crazy Hours complication. First released in 2003, the Crazy Hours collection introduced a dial layout where the traditional display of…

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10.02.2018

LIST: Cleared for take-off – 10 of the best pilot’s watches

First things first, just what is a pilot’s watch? While I think most of us could instantly recognise one, there isn’t an exact formula like there is when it comes to dive watches — and there’s a lot more to it than simply being a watch a pilot would wear. Ultimately (since you asked), a pilot’s watch is one that is instantly readable at a glance, whether in simple time-only form, or more complicated with functions that a pilot might find useful. And while we can’t all be Maverick or Iceman (no one wants to be Goose), we can still live…

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06.02.2018

INTRODUCING: The new Bell & Ross BR V2 Steel Heritage models

With aeronautical instruments remaining a main source of inspiration for Bell & Ross, it’s fair to say they’re passionate about aviation. And while we’ve come to expect flight-ready four-sided designs from the Parisian brand, last year’s third-generation Vintage collection not only evoked the look of instrument panels from aircraft of the 1960s but also featured a more classically styled round case. This year, as a preview to Baselworld, the collection has been given an update and an even stronger vintage feel with the release of two new Steel Heritage versions of the BR V2. They’re designed to meet modern military…

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26.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The Bausele Terra Australis “Red Back”

When Felix first took a peek at the Terra Australis made by Aussie watch company Bausele, what he saw before him – to paraphrase his own words – was the preliminary sketch before the finished painting. Fast-forward to today and those metaphorical pencil marks are now barely visible under brushstrokes of paint, with the brand officially launching the flagship model late last year. While much of the design hasn’t changed from that first look prototype, from initial impressions, it’s easy to see that the overall quality of finish has improved by leaps and bounds. To kick things off, Bausele have…

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26.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Southern Cross

During a time when planes were more fabric than steel, and I’m sure the phrase “on a wing and a prayer” had a much more literal meaning, Zenith were pioneering the use of pilot watches, with French aviator Louis Blériot wearing a Zenith on his wrist as he made the first ever flight across the English Channel in 1909. In fact, Zenith were so early to reach the skies that they are the only brand that can use the word “Pilot” on a watch dial, thanks to them being marketing-savvy and trademarking the term. All this is a roundabout way…

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09.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The Gavox Avidiver

Summer has officially landed here in Australia. The days are long and sun-soaked, while the nights are humid and restless. With temps rising, there are only two things on my mind: whether the aircon can be reprogrammed to go colder than 16°C, and the upcoming summer holidays. It might not be much help with the AC, but one watch that was made for an island getaway is the Gavox Avidiver. A hybrid of air and sea, it combines the legibility of a pilot’s watch with the water resistance of a diver. As well as boasting an extra trick up its…

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22.12.2017

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf

Hublot take their motto – The Art of Fusion – very seriously. It’s an ideology we’ve witnessed them bring to life ever since their very first watch, which combined a gold case with a natural rubber strap – the likes of which had never been seen before. It’s also an attitude that has allowed for some extremely esoteric partnerships. From French contemporary artists, all the way to synth-rock band Depeche Mode. This year they’ve joined forces with world number one golfer Dustin Johnson. And created a watch specifically designed for golfers to calculate and keep track of their scores. To…

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20.12.2017

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski

“Art is subjective” – a phrase I’m sure you’ve heard, and even said once or twice. Usually in response to someone who has made some rather critical comments about a particular artist or piece of work you like. Whether it’s a painting, a song, a photograph, or a sculpture. There’s always going to be two camps – those who love it, and those who don’t. And like art, Hublot’s bold and sometimes brash designs often divide opinion. But that hasn’t stopped them from pushing the envelope, and developing some incredibly innovative designs. Because you see, Hublot loves art. It’s part…

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19.12.2017

HANDS-ON: The Martenero Kerrison

Since 2014, New York-based Martenero have been quietly making a name for themselves amongst the enthusiasts of the microbrand watch community. Their formula is of simple dials with bright pops of colour, paired with a twisted lug case – with the exception of their straight-edged Edgemere – brought to life by a desire to create classically-styled watches with a clean and modern look. This year they’ve taken a far-reaching approach to expand their five-watch catalogue, with their sixth release launched via crowdfunding website Kickstarter. The Kerrison more than tripled its pledge goal and I expect we’ll see it become a…

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11.12.2017

HANDS-ON: The Sinn 104 St Sa I W

Famous for their formidable and over-engineered designs — which range from technically advanced mission timers to hardcore divers made of submarine steel — Sinn are arguably the most renowned tool watch manufacturer in the industry. However, the German company also hosts a suite of dressier pieces that are better suited to a boardroom than a war room. Meeting somewhere in the middle is the Sinn 104. A professionally capable pilot’s watch that is equally at home outside of the cockpit – be it in the office or on the street. And at the beginning of this year, Sinn added to the…

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09.12.2017

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Limited Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic collection harks back to a time when nuclear tensions were taut between the Eastern and Western Bloc. A time in 1958, at the height of the Cold War, when a period of collaborative worldwide scientific experiments and excursions took place. Dubbed the International Geophysical Year. One of the more notable expeditions of the time, was a pioneering cross under the North Pole, by the first nuclear-powered submarine, the USS Nautilus. On the wrist of USS Nautilus commander – Captain William Anderson – was the high-tech (at the time) purpose-built Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic, designed to cope with the strong magnetic…

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02.12.2017

LIST: The 11 best chronographs of 2017

I’m just going to say it. Nowadays, no one actually “needs” a chronograph. I mean, really, how often does the need for a stopwatch arise? And if it does, we all have those smart little assistants in our pockets (gasp! blasphemy, I know). However, there’s a certain mechanical allure to the humble chronograph watch. No other complication requires quite as much interaction from its owner. From the compressing of a little pusher with our fingertips, to feeling the click of tiny levers and gears inside before the second hand races off. There’s a reason the chronograph is considered a must-have…

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01.12.2017

INTRODUCING: The IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years”

Mention the words “digital watch” and most minds instantly fill with images of G-Shocks or the trusty Casio calculator watch. However, long before the invention of those little battery-powered timekeepers, came the Pallweber pocket watch. Patented in 1883 by Salzburg-based watchmaker Josef Pallweber — who then licensed his invention to IWC, and later to other manufacturers — the Pallweber featured jumping numerals in a digital display. And despite a relatively short production run from 1884 to 1890, it’s perhaps the most iconic IWC pocket watch of all time. Next year, with the company celebrating its 150th anniversary, the Schaffhausen manufacturer is launching…

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30.11.2017

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military

A history born on the open ocean. Ulysse Nardin gained fame for marine chronometers, found in the pockets and on the wrists of many of the world’s navy captains in the 19th century. The Marine Collection has since become the brand’s most emblematic. However, renewing the focus and direction of the collection, earlier this year UN added the streamlined Marine Torpilleur Chronometer. And with SIHH 2018 just around the corner, they’ve unveiled another inclusion to the Torpilleur family. One that is less the officer and the gentleman of its predecessor and more the rough-and-ready adventurer of the high seas. Forging…

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20.11.2017

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night Watch

Cartier may be better known for simple timekeeping classics like the Tank or the Santos. But it’s no secret that the French maison also hosts a history full of complicated – and equally as iconic – designs. In fact, even before the Tank or the Santos were the style icons they are today, Cartier were mystifying the world with mysterious movements. Like that of their Model A mystery clock, and the cleverly stylised sun and moon day/night display of the Comet clock (AKA the Planet clock), both of which date from 1912. As a prelude to SIHH 2018, Cartier have, for…

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18.11.2017

LIST: The 10 best dress watches of 2017

There are certain times in life when one must simply dress up and don a suit and tie. Occasions when that sporty chrono or chunky diver just won’t quite look the part. Hopefully it’s for a fancy shindig like a wedding or an awards night, and not for something less fun, like a court hearing. But, if your wristwear hasn’t already been chosen by the boys and girls in blue, you’ll want to dress it up a notch. To do that in style you’re going to need something a little more elegant strapped to your wrist. Here’s our pick of 10 of…

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15.11.2017

INTRODUCING: A racy traveller – the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph UTC

In recent years, we’ve witnessed Montblanc – who acquired Minerva back in 2006 – embrace the storied bygone days of its Villeret movement manufacturer. They’ve developed innovative complications, and paid tribute with dressy heritage-style timepieces. And this year they’ve revamped their modern TimeWalker collection, keeping the contemporary styling, while paying tribute to the illustrious motorsport heritage of Minerva. Sitting amongst the simple three-handers and limited-edition rally timers of the collection is the TimeWalker Chronograph UTC. A sporty chronograph with a dual-time complication. What immediately sets the Chronograph UTC apart from the other TimeWalkers is its black DLC-treated 43mm case. Structurally…

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09.11.2017

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon in rose gold

Just one look at their anchor-shaped logo should be a clue to the centuries old maritime heritage of Ulysse Nardin. Their Marine collection, which has hoisted the sails for more than 20 years, was last year celebrated with the release of the mesmerisingly complicated Ulysse Nardin Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon. After all, UN aren’t only about the high seas.  Avant-garde designs and clever complications are common throughout their catalogue. This year, UN have added a warm touch to the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon, with a darker colour scheme and a change of material for the case. Now made from 18k…

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08.11.2017

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB051 – an on point reinterpretation of the 62MAS

Nothing gets a watch fan’s blood pumping quite like a new dive watch release from Seiko. And this year, our collective hearts were racing. With Seiko dropping not just a re-creation of the iconic 62MAS – the SLA017 – but also two modern reinterpretations, the black SPB051 and the blue SPB053. And that’s the key phrase here – modern reinterpretation. You see, unlike the SLA017, which was an almost exact duplicate of the 62MAS, these modern reimaginations are larger, sportier, and exactly that, reimagined for the wrist of today. I had the chance to get my hands on the SPB051,…

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03.11.2017

HANDS-ON: Linked in – the sleek new TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5

For some, turning 30 is a daunting occasion. It’s an age when we’re expected to be mature and take life seriously. And just getting yourself up and down from a chair now takes effort and involves a distinctly loud groan. It’s not all bad though. And in the case of the new TAG Heuer Link it can actually be a very good thing. First released in 1987, the Link began life as the TAG Heuer S/EL (short for Sports Elegance) and throughout the ’90s was one of their most successful models. In recent years, however, the Link was overshadowed by…

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01.11.2017

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 7 GMT

With the long-awaited reissue of the Autavia topping the news out of TAG Heuer this year, there was yet another update to one of their reliable mainstays – the Aquaracer. While it’s not unusual for a brand to make changes to a model every year or so, the past few years we’ve seen the Aquaracer steadily evolve, with a series of small tweaks and refinements made to the collection. This year, and almost as a culmination of all the changes, TAG Heuer released the brand new Aquaracer Calibre 7 GMT. Although it’s not the first Aquaracer with a GMT complication,…

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25.10.2017

IN-DEPTH: Get funky with the Oris Chronoris Date

The story in a second: Disco might be dead, but the ’70s live on in Oris’ latest re-edition. A decade for experimentation, the ’70s was an era of bold shapes and brightly coloured designs (men’s turtleneck ponchos, anyone?). While many of these experiments should never be repeated (men’s turtleneck ponchos), there are a few special exceptions. One of which is the Oris Chronoris. Released in 1970, it was the brand’s first foray into the world of motorsport and their very first chronograph. Since then, Oris has built a strong stable of auto-themed watches. Maintaining connections to the sport of motor-racing with partnerships including…

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20.10.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Tudor Heritage Black Bay S&G

The story in a second:  Two-tone is back, baby! Steel and gold watches have been around for years. Hitting peak popularity around 30 years ago, they were the epitome of ’80s style, but, then again, so were pastel polos with double popped collars. However, while the mix of these two metals has been used by countless manufacturers, I’ve just never been a two-tone guy. It’s not that I have anything against the combination (double popped collars are a different story), it’s just that they were never for me. This year, something happened that I think no one saw coming. Tudor…

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17.10.2017

INTRODUCING: Coming of age – the Patek Philippe 20th Anniversary Aquanaut Ref. 5168G

The year was 1997, the Spice Girls were busy spicing up life, and Leo was king of the world. It was a great time to be alive, and not just if you were a 13-year-old-girl. Because if you were a fan of stainless steel sports watches, it was also the year Patek Philippe introduced the Aquanaut. Taking its design cues from the casually elegant Nautilus, it was initially released as a slightly more accessible alternative, and aimed at an active and younger generation of watch lovers. But it quickly stepped out of big brother’s shadow, and has since become an…

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12.10.2017

INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru

The latest addition to the L.U.C Heritage collection pays tribute to not only the Chopard of the past but also to the present. To understand how, I’ll have to take you through a crash course in Chopard history (don’t worry, I’ll make it quick). Chopard were founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, who specialised initially in highly accurate pocket watches. Some of these early chronometers even made their way as far as the court of Russian Tsar Nicholas II. Skipping forward a century, in 1963 the company was purchased by the Scheufele family, who still own it to this day, with…

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06.10.2017

HANDS-ON: The funky, fun Dan Henry 1970 Diver Compressor

If you’re here, then I can safely assume that you own a few watches, or at least that you’re into them. I’m also willing to bet that you have, at least once, fantasied about designing your own. A pipedream for most, but not for Dan Henry. Over the course of 30 years, Dan Henry has amassed a collection of more than 1500 watches, and what began as a simple desire to share his passion with others quickly turned into the beginning of his eponymous watch company. By finding design inspiration through the often decades-old styling of his most iconic pieces,…

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03.10.2017

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Ahoi neomatik, in eye-popping ‘siren red’

Nomos may be one of the younger players in the watch scene, but they’ve already well and truly stamped their mark on the industry. A very minimalist-looking one, to be sure, but that does not mean that their purist Bauhaus/Deutscher Werkbund-inspired designs are boring. Far from it. There’s nothing ho-hum about a manufacturer who has been making its own movements since 2005, and whose latest calibre – the DUW 3001 – not only uses their own designed and built escapement system but is also their thinnest automatic movement yet. Now that excitement of thin in-house goodness is combined with an extra…

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27.09.2017

INTRODUCING: Sporty but simple – the Montblanc TimeWalker Date Automatic

Soon after the introduction of the motor car came the introduction of motorsports. Our inherently competitive nature driving us in our search for speed and steering what was one the greatest inventions in human history towards its inevitable competitive use. From motor racing’s early days, timepieces were used to measure the difference separating victory and defeat, and, ever since, cars and watches have cosied up in the back seat with an inexhaustable (unlike these fast-paced puns) roll call of pairings. At the beginning of the 1900s, one of the main players in motorsport timekeeping was Minerva. The manufacturer was one…

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21.09.2017

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT

The angry man of jazz, Charles Mingus, famously said, “Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that’s creativity.” A saying which, I think, is rather befitting to watches with a GMT or dual time zone complication. Because, let’s face it, having to calculate the time in another time zone can be a complex task, especially as you stumble through an airport in a jetlag-induced haze. With Hublot’s latest Big Bang, the Unico GMT, what was already a simple solution to a complex problem has been made veritable child’s play with the push of a button.…

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18.09.2017

INTRODUCING: A touch of class – the Breguet Classique 7787

Enamel is enjoying something of a renaissance in watch manufacturing. Many companies – from Seiko to Patek – are increasingly turning to the nearly forgotten art to decorate their dials. While it’s a slow and sometimes unforgiving process, the reward for mastering the technique is a uniquely alluring dial with a hue that will never fade. One company that has mastered the craft is Breguet – the gurus of guilloche also produce watches with some of the finest enamel dials in the industry. In fact, just this year they updated two of their classically styled pieces – the elegant Classique 7147, which we…

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12.09.2017

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Cronometro Tipo CP-2

There are a few select words and phrases regarding vintage watches that, when said, are sure to light the fires of enthusiasm inside a collector. One such phrase is “military provenance”; another, which can stoke either the flames of desire or disgust, depending on who you’re speaking to, is “vintage reissue”. We’re going to invoke both phrases here. In the 1960s, Zenith produced a watch with some serious military cred, which they recently celebrated with a faithful modern re-creation, limited to 1000 pieces. The original, code-named the Tipo CP-2 chronograph, was made for pilots of the Italian armed forces. It was also…

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31.08.2017

INTRODUCING: Cartier’s otherworldly Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon

Cartier is no stranger to the art of fine watchmaking, and in the last few years the French maison has been bringing the haute …err… heat to the world of high horology, with watches bearing the Geneva Seal – like the Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon. In 2014 Cartier first introduced us to the Rotonde De Cartier Earth and Moon in platinum, and this year with a case and dial change it has reunited the Earth with the moon and added an 18-carat pink-gold-cased version, which is limited to 15 pieces. Where the first version was a stylised tribute to the Earth,…

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22.08.2017

INTRODUCING: Evergreen design – the Rado Ceramica 

Rado is synonymous with ceramic. The brand pioneered the use of the material, creating its very own niche along the way. With its combination of incredible scratch resistance and lightness, it’s easy to see why it’s such a good material for watch cases. Perhaps the most iconic of all ceramic watches is the aptly named Rado Ceramica, which debuted nearly three decades ago. This chic and minimalist design is something of an evergreen, looking as fresh today as it did when it was first released. This year Rado decided to take on the challenging task of refreshing the Ceramica, seeking…

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17.08.2017

INTRODUCING: Return to form – the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Until its relaunch earlier this year, the IWC Da Vinci collection was sometimes overlooked, and unfairly so, as it has housed several “firsts” for the company. First introduced in 1969, it was the first watch from the Schaffhausen manufacturer to feature a quartz movement – the famous Beta 21 – which was the product of a collaboration between 21 of the top Swiss houses, including Omega and Patek Philippe. Then, in 1985 the collection was given new life with the release of the awe-inspiring Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (ref. 3750). Equipped with a perpetual calendar module developed by IWC’s renowned master watchmaker,…

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10.08.2017

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Neo-Bridges

As one of the oldest continuing watch manufacturers in the world, Girard-Perregaux have a long, illustrious history of sharp and innovative designs. In 1889 at the Paris Universal Exhibition, the brand’s legendary pocket watch “Esmeralda”, a tourbillon with three gold bridges, was awarded first prize, establishing the motif as an emblematic design for the brand. Since then, the iconic Tourbillon with Three Bridges has formed the cornerstone of GP’s top tier collection. This year saw the addition of the Neo-Bridges, a “retro-futuristic” take on the design, which embodies the long-standing traditions of the brand while adopting its rediscovered forward-looking approach…

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27.07.2017

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon

Last year, Cartier launched a brand-new collection: the automotive-inspired Drive de Cartier. However, unlike much of the brand’s other offerings which have cross-gender appeal, the Drive de Cartier is intended solely for men. It has proven to be a hit the world over, with a case that is neither round nor square. Instead, its elegant curves form a rounded cushion shape, which is unmistakably masculine – but not in a macho kind of way. To use an automotive analogy, it’s less brute Mustang muscle and more the sophistication of an Aston Martin. The crowning achievement of the collection is the…

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21.07.2017

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle – a forgotten classic, revisited

Imagine you were suddenly launched back in time and onto the deck of a naval ship in the second half of the 19th century. What’s the very first thing you’d do? Personally, if I’ve learnt anything about time travel from The Terminator, I’d find some clothes. Shortly after that, I’d be pretty keen to know exactly “when” I was, and the only way to do that at sea would be to consult the ship’s marine chronometre – and there’s a good chance it would been made by Ulysse Nardin. It’s this style of watch – along with other suitably nautical horology…

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14.07.2017

HANDS-ON: A softer shape – the Bulgari Octo Roma

“When in Rome, do as the Romans do”, rather ironically, is not a saying that appears to be said very often around the watch design department at Bulgari. In the last few years the brand’s unique Octo collection has thrust them to the forefront of watch manufacturing, not only technically – with record-breaking pieces like the thinnest tourbillon, the thinnest minute repeater, and the thinnest automatic movement – but aesthetically as well, with unique eight-sided case designs inspired by the octagonal motifs adorning the domed ceilings of the Basilica of Maxentius in Rome. This year, creating what Bulgari refer to as…

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07.07.2017

IN-DEPTH: Is the Seiko Prospex SLA017 62MAS re-creation their best dive watch ever?

The story in a second The most eagerly awaited dive watch release from Seiko…ever? Seiko were relative latecomers to the professional dive watch game, coming some 10 years after the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner. Released in 1965, the legendary Seiko 62MAS (ref. 6217) was Japan’s first professional dive watch and inspired a long tradition of Seiko divers that has seen the brand release some of the most widely used and respected divers on the market. In fact, some of Seiko’s own design innovations contributed to the foundation of the ISO 6425 dive watch standards. So, when the…

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30.06.2017

INTRODUCING: IWC’s renaissance – the Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph

At the beginning of the year, IWC declared it the year of the Da Vinci.  Saying  “arrivederci” to the tonneau style case and returning to the classic round case design of the 80s with those seductive, articulated lugs. The flagship for the new collection is the all new and very complicated Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph. As its name would suggest (and in a first for the company) this watch sports flying tourbillon, chronograph, and retrograde date complications. The trio of functions all wrapped up in the newly designed in-house 89900 movement, adding another branch to the 89000-calibre family tree…

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22.06.2017

HANDS-ON: Aggressively monochrome – the blacked-out Bulgari Octo Ultranero

With its intensely angular octagonal case, it’s easy to see why Bulgari’s Octo collection is a cult favourite. And the latest versions take the model down a darker path. We looked at the crimson-accented version earlier this year, and today we go even darker with the full-black Octo Ultranero. The case is the same as always – 41 mm steel treated with a black DLC, and rated to 100m. But while its red-and-black companion plays with contrast, this version offers nothing but black. The matt black hands and indices all but disappear into the equally black dial, and leave the…

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Tudor Pelagos LHD on brown leather strap review 14.06.2017

MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Tudor Pelagos LHD

Late last year I celebrated a milestone birthday, turning the big three-zero. After coming to terms with the death of my twenties and realising that the big moments in life should be celebrated not mourned, I decided the occasion needed to be marked with a new watch. Thankfully my wife agreed, so a budget was set and the search was on: I began the task of shortlisting contenders. The top pick changed more times than I feel comfortable admitting, but finally, one watch prevailed: the practical and modern Tudor Pelagos. The only thing left to decide was the dial colour. The…

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09.06.2017

INTRODUCING: The Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Vintage Chronograph

When I hear the words Bell & Ross, I immediately picture square watches inspired by flight instruments – watches like the iconic BR01 or its smaller cousin, the BR03. And I’m sure I’m not alone. There is, however, another side to the Bell & Ross family. With classic looks and traditional round cases, the Vintage collection draws its inspiration from the history of aviation. Designed to meet military specifications set by the armed forces, this collection has legibility, functionality and precision high on the list of “must haves”. Given these requirements, it’s not completely unexpected that this, the latest vintage-inspired…

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26.05.2017

INTRODUCING: A different kind of dive watch – the Oris Regulateur ‘Der Meistertaucher’

If you dive, or even if you don’t, then you may know that a diver’s regulator is the hub of their equipment – it is what makes breathing underwater possible, after all. We may not be referring to that type of regulator here, but the latest offering from Oris, the updated Regulateur ‘Der Meistertaucher’ (Master Diver), has been purpose-built for divers with a dial design seldom seen on a dive watch. In fact, Oris is the only manufacturer that currently offers a regulator dial on a dive watch – pioneered back in 1999 and featured in a handful of their collections, including…

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19.05.2017

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic lives up to its name

In 1939 when two Portuguese merchants approached IWC about making a wristwatch with the same levels of accuracy usually seen in marine chronometer pocket watches, they had no idea it would be the beginning of a legend and the birth of one of IWC’s most popular collections. With a new slightly revised design, IWC have launched an updated version of their Portugieser Chronograph Classic – which we first saw back in 2013 (Ref. IW3904). The updates are few and subtle but they have culminated in a watch that accentuates the classic styling fans of the Portugieser love. Comparing new with old, the removal…

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11.05.2017

INTRODUCING: When less is more – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton

Following on from their somewhat controversial releases at SIHH, Girard-Perregaux has surprised us with not one but two new pieces to add to their already brimming Laureato collection. Originally launched back in 1975, the then cutting-edge, quartz-powered Laureato was designed by an Italian architect who, the story goes, drew his inspiration from the dome of the famous Cathedral in Florence. With its octagonal inner bezel and integrated bracelet, the watch bore more than a passing resemblance to other very recognisable ’70s designs (read AP and Patek). These two new skeletonised pieces seem to be doing their best to shake that association…

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