One of the things I love most in watches is when a brand challenges my preconceptions. That’s exactly what happened in Jaquet Droz’s Basel booth earlier this year. I was surrounded by writing machines, jewelled butterflies, automata of all shapes and sizes (well, not really, but you get my point), and then BAM! I saw the Skelet-One. I mean, sure, technically it’s part of the Grande Seconde family (just like the Tribute), but to my mind it’s aggressive modernity meets classical proportion and peerless finish. A seductive mix, indeed. In and of itself the skeletonisation is very cool, but the real deal-sealer is the sapphire subdial. Not only does it look like the titular seconds hand is floating on air, it allows maximum light into that golden case, to great effect. Minimal dial. Maximum impact. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Australian Pricing Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One, $44,950.
Two hundred and eighty years is pretty big as far as milestones go. So, given that Jaquet Droz is marking the big two-eight-o this year, you’d expect them to have a few tricks up their sleeve … and you wouldn’t be disappointed. They’ve released this special version of their signature watch — the Grande Seconde Tribute, a limited edition of 88 pieces cased, for the first time, in yellow gold. The original precious metal is perfectly paired with the warm ivory tones of the Grand Feu dial, printed with the characteristic dual dials — including the oversized seconds hand that gives the watch its name. It’s a design that is quite timeless, yet not old-fashioned, due in no small part to the fact that Jaquet Droz has executed the whole affair with restraint and taste. I particularly liked that the individual number of the watch (5 in this case) is printed on the dial. Classy stuff. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tribute Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tribute, in yellow gold, $28,650.
Just because Jaquet Droz is a relative newcomer to Australia doesn’t mean they don’t have history. The brand dates back to the mid-18th century, and, besides watches and clocks, is famous for their incredible automata. And while the incredibly complex, high-end art/engineering pieces are still important for the brand, we thought we’d keep it real and focus on their slightly more down-to-earth offerings from Baselworld 2018, offerings that focused heavily on their signature Grande Seconde model, with its oversized seconds subdial. And like any good signature model, the Grande Seconde is versatile. It excels at traditional — as evidenced by the black enamel moonphase model, and the yellow gold and grand feu Tribute — but can pivot nicely to contemporary, with the addition of a ceramic case or skeletonised treatment. Excellent stuff from a niche brand, with a strong and sophisticated identity.
Last year, Jaquet Droz rolled out a first round of the Grande Seconde Moon in three editions, including two steel models, and an ivory-coloured enamel dial cased in red gold. Building on the model’s success (and the growing popularity of black and gold wristwatches across the board), the brand added a fourth model to the collection at Baselworld 2018 in the form of this elegant-yet-modern black enamel model cased in red gold. Given how smitten I was with the first iterations — especially the beautiful level of detail in the execution of their moonphase complication — I couldn’t wait to take a closer look. Vital statistics As noted, the changes with this new model are entirely visual. Powered by the self-winding caliber 2660QL3, which features a silicon hairspring and a pair of mainspring barrels delivering at 68-hour power reserve, its moonphase complication was executed to maintain accuracy for 122 years and 46 days before requiring a 1-day correction. I always find these sort of stats a little humorous, as this accuracy is effectively useless unless the caliber is maintained fully wound and running for that duration of time (which, by the way, is impossible considering the need for servicing along the way)…. Read More
The story in a second: Just check out that dial. ’Nuff said. Outside of their amazing automata and elaborate enamel work, the flagship Jaquet Droz collection is their Grande Seconde, with its distinctive, clean design dominated by two subdials, one for the time, the other for seconds. When we saw this version at Basel this year, we quickly fell under its spell. It has a dramatic quality that sets it apart from more conservative dress pieces. And the dial? Well, we’ll get to that. All told it’s a super-minimal, elegant, stylish watch – a versatile design that works well with an extravagant dial finish or added complication. The example we’re looking at today offers a little of both, adding a calendar function (that’s the ‘Quantième’ in the model name, for any non-linguists in the house) as well as a beautifully finished dial. The most commonly seen Grande Secondes are the more formal enamel-dialled offerings, which look best paired with a crisp white cuff. This version, on the other hand, creates a totally different look with its rich blue dial finished with Geneva stripes and applied opaline subdials. Still elegant, but far less buttoned-up, this would be in its element with… Read More
Your name: Christian Your watch: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantiéme Ivory Enamel When – did you buy it? At first I had the Grande Seconde in silver, but I could not resist the Grand Feu enamel dial of the white gold version, and the lower subdial. Beautiful! Why – do you love this watch? This is the perfect watch, it does everything. (Christian is interrupted by his colleague) No, no, no, listen to me! It is the perfect watch because first we have the date and you have the time, so you have all the indications you need. With this watch, you have the style, and it has a lot of appeal. People say to me, wow, because the identity is very strong. From afar you see that it’s something different and you can see the very nice finishing. You can see that it’s a high level watch. What – does it say about you? It says that I like it! But I do not have as nice a finishing. That is why I choose this watch.
The story in a second: Jaquet Droz is the new kid on the Australian high-end luxury watch block, and the Grande Seconde Deadbeat is their take on an old-school complication. Jaquet Droz is a newcomer to the Australian watch scene. Part of the Swatch Group family, they are primarily known here for their impressive automata and refined style. It is also a brand that seems to have played exceptionally well in Asian markets. So it makes sense, given our proximity to Asia, strong dollar and strong tourist sales, that Jaquet Droz makes a push into our markets. Their latest model, the Grande Seconde Deadbeat, is an exemplary model for the brand (outside of their off-tap ridiculous automated birds). The Grande Seconde line is a pared-back, elegant design, one that speaks to eighteenth-century watchmaking of the sort that Jaquet Droz himself would be familiar with. Besides the offset time and date registers on a very handsome grand feu enamel dial, this watch is all about the seconds. The Grande Seconde Deadbeat features a very unusual complication. The seconds hand doesn’t move with the continuous sweep you’d expect from a mechanical movement, but rather ‘jumps’ every second. Just like a quartz watch. But… Read More