Bovet’s first bracelet turns the Récital 12 into a high-luxury daily driver
Buffy AcaciaBovet has been one of my favourite brands since I delved into its history. The unashamed embrace of extravagance is something I love in luxury watchmaking, and false humility can get tiring. So, has Bovet finally caved to the sports-obsessed masses by releasing a titanium watch on a bracelet? Hardly. The new Bovet Récital 12 certainly borrows some aesthetic cues from that world, but it’s done in balance with the opulence and glamour we’ve come to expect from the house.
The case
Titanium is categorically not a precious metal, not even grade 5 titanium which is a common alloy for high strength and corrosion resistance. It’s chosen mostly for its lightweight properties, having around 60% the density of stainless steel. Unless you’re someone who believes that weight is an indicator of quality, a lightweight watch will always be more comfortable on-wrist. Bovet’s obsessive pursuit of excellence has had to pivot from complications to ergonomics with this time-only watch, and that’s clear from the choice of materials alone. Many watchmakers try to play up the dark grey of titanium with matte textures or sandblasted finishes, but Bovet has opted for a fully-polished case which takes on a bright shine.
Continuing the theme of comfort, the Bovet Récital 12 has a 40mm diameter and short lugs which allow a wide variety of wrists to wear it easily. There are quite a lot of large Bovet watches when they’re packed with extra features, but conservative sizing was definitely the way to go here. The total height of the case is 9.8mm, so it should have no problems sliding beneath cuffs, if that’s your thing. As much as the bracelet brings a bit of sportiness to the overall design, it’s by no means a sports watch. The 30-metre water resistance means it should be kept far away from pools or the beach, and although grade 5 titanium is more scratch-resistant than pure grade 2, it’s no more scratch-resistant than stainless steel.
The dial
The Récital 12 has actually been around for a while, but it used to conform to Bovet’s regular, flashy style. The dial here is very similar to previous references, but the monochrome approach to the exposed movement gives it more of an industrialised feel. You’ll realise quickly that the majority of the Récital 12’s dial is actually the back of a movement, because the whole calibre has been flipped to put the more visually dynamic display at the front. There’s strong horizontal symmetry with the balance wheel opposite one of the gears, and the swooping arch also being mirrored from the power reserve indicator. On the left side is a triple-tipped seconds hand, showcasing how the gear train culminates.
The off-centre centrepiece of the dial is the main time display, with just the hours and minutes indicated with leaf-shaped hands. The Arabic numerals are in a playful typeface that has just the right amount of whimsy, while still being clearly legible. The base guilloché pattern spirals out from the centre, and is reminiscent of peacock feathers. Then, a tinted lacquer is applied for the final colour. The Bovet Récital 12 is available in deep blue, green, or turquoise, each of them remaining versatile while providing an engaging colour.
The bracelet
Given that this is the first Bovet wristwatch to be sold on a bracelet, it’s great to see that the brand has gone for something unique. At the same time, it’s not so crazy that it will stick out in a bad way. The titanium is mostly brushed which contributes to the overall sporty look, but the polished sections in the centres of the links help the visual connection between case and bracelet. The V-shaped taper is pretty extreme, and it almost has a slimming effect when you put it on your wrist. There’s also no interlocking between the links, which means the bracelet is free to conform to your wrist as soon as it goes past the end of the lug.
The movement
It may not have a very nice name, but the calibre 13BMDR12C2 is a gorgeous movement. As obvious from the dial, the whole thing has been flipped around so that you’re getting the glorious view typically reserved for casebacks. Conversely, the exhibition caseback shows off a side of movements which is usually hidden beneath a dial, and you get to peer in at the keyless works of the crown assembly. Both sides have been decorated with elaborate finishing, and the curvature of the côtes de Genève even matches up with the circular cutouts on the dial side. Clearly, no detail has been ignored. It beats at 3Hz, but the main marvel of the specs list is the seven-day or 168-hour power reserve. Considering it’s a time-only movement, the 45 jewels and 227 component count are pretty high.
The verdict
The new Bovet Récital 12 is definitely not a sports watch, but it does represent a philosophical shift for the brand. No more is it a watch to be worn to the opera or fundraiser galas only, but something you could theoretically throw on every day to the office. The US$35,000 price tag will definitely raise some eyebrows considering its lack of complications and precious metals, however it speaks to Bovet’s positioning in the world of haute Swiss watchmaking, and the beauty of the display.
Bovet Récital 12 pricing and availability
The Bovet Récital 12 is now available. Price: US$35,000
| Brand | Bovet |
| Model | Récital 12 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (W) x 9.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Openworked |
| Strap | Titanium bracelet |
| Movement | 13BMDR12C2, in-house, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 168 hours (7 days) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | US$35,000 |