The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 is accessible luxury for pilotsFergus Nash
- The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer introduces a brushed green dial to the Pilot GMT lineup.
- It’s powered by a COSC-certified Valjoux 7754 chronograph movement.
- With a date window, chronograph, and GMT hand, it’s packed with useful complications.
Watch design is a fickle thing. You can’t expect to just tick boxes of ingredients and expect the final product to be attractive, and you also can’t expect people to care about your watch just because it’s a limited edition. Brellum isn’t a brand name that appears on many watch enthusiast’s radars, but maybe it should be. As the culmination of four generations of a watchmaking family, Brellum know how to make a significant release, and the Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer deserves time in the spotlight.
Brellum’s structure revolves around small-scale production, typically only making around 300 watches per year. It’s exclusive, but not in the same kind of prohibitive way a higher-end watch may be. The Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer is limited to 27 pieces, ensuring its owners can be part of a small community. Being the third version of the Pilot GMT, following on from the white-dialled LE.1 and the blue-dialled LE.2, adopting a green dial was the natural choice for this reference. But while the previous iterations were matte in texture, the LE.3’s green dial has been given a lush, sunburst brushing that really elevates its presence. The subdials are set apart by their concentric guilloché, counting minutes at 12, hours at 6, and running seconds at 9.
The overall design manages to clearly display its pilot’s watch influence without being based on any historical release in particular. Its Arabic numerals, alpha hands and split triangle at 12 o’clock indicate its flieger origins, but everything has got a slight twist to make it that bit more unique and contemporary. The case is about as classic as you can get for a pilot’s watch, with a brushed finish enhancing its utilitarian vibe. The main aspects which indicate a luxury angle are the polished chamfers along the lugs, and the fitted, curved ends of the leather strap. If you’re not a fan of the leather, it does also come delivered with a stainless steel bracelet. At 41.8mm in diameter, the Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 moderates a nice balance between wrist presence and wearability, especially thanks to the curvature of the long lugs. One aspect which may put some people off however is case thickness, which comes in at 15.9mm including the box-domed sapphire crystal.
Powering the Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer is the Brellum BR-754 which is based on the Valjoux calibre 7754. This automatic chronograph movement looks particularly at home through the exhibition caseback with its perlage finishing and skeletonised winding rotor. It provides the chronograph complication as well as the GMT hand, making it a great travelling companion. Additionally, there’s a symmetrical date window in the subdial at 6 o’clock, and the movement has been certified as a chronometer by COSC for an accuracy within -4/+6 seconds per day.
The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer pricing and availability
The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer is limited to 27 pieces, and will be available on Brellum’s website from November 17th, 2023. Price: US$3,500
|Model||Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer|
|Case Dimensions||41.8mm (D) x 15.9mm (T)|
|Case Material||Stainless steel|
|Crystal||Sapphire front and back|
|Strap||Stainless steel bracelet and fitted leather strap|
|Functions||Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronometer, GMT|
|Availability||Limited to 27 pieces|