Wave hello to the all-new Doxa SUB 300β collectionFergus Nash
- The Doxa SUB 300β introduces Doxa’s first wave dial.
- Rather than brightly-coloured dials, Doxa’s iconic palette comes through as highlights on a black background.
- It’s a significant departure from the 300β Sharkhunter Limited Edition, keeping only the black ceramic bezel.
Doxa’s business model has become quite similar to that of Seiko, where they will sneakily announce a new series of watches through a higher-end limited edition. Usually they differ only in materials or colours, keeping the overall layout and vibe the same, however the new range of Doxa SUB 300β watches are a whole different beast to the SUB 300β Sharkhunter Limited Edition released back in August. With high-contrast accents replacing their iconic dial colours, the new Doxa SUB 300β introduces their first go at a wave dial.
For all of their bold colours, Doxa actually don’t stray too far from tradition. They have such a strong identity forged in the 1960s and ‘70s, and even their boundary-pushing watches like the SUB 300 Carbon only change up the materials. But, lately there’s been a push towards fresh ideas. The SUB 300T Clive Cussler edition had a graphic dial with a compass design and an antiquated case treatment, stepping into an almost costume-like dimension. The new Doxa SUB 300β doesn’t go quite that far, but the etched wave pattern in the dial sends a thoroughly contemporary message. It’s reminiscent of the ‘90s Bond Seamaster pattern, although with a longer wavelength.
As for comparing this series to the Sub 300β Sharkhunter Limited Edition, it’s dramatically different. The only similarities are the black dials and black ceramic bezel inserts, although even they are tweaked with the deep wave pattern and bright, contrasting highlights. Doxa’s range of colours shine through those highlights, with the exception of the Caribbean version which is allowed a deep blue dial and bezel insert, and the Searambler with its silver dial. In spirit, the 300β does still embody a sleek kind of streetwear style, but the steel cases and wave dials do lend themselves more towards classic dive watch styling.
The Doxa SUB 300 architecture is pretty much untouched, although the height has been slimmed down to just 11.95mm, which is quite impressive for a 300-metre diver with a helium escape valve. The 42.5mm diameter feels robust on the wrist, but doesn’t wear too largely at all thanks to the cushion case’s lug-to-lug length of 44.5mm. Each watch is available on either a beads-of-rice style bracelet with a ratcheting diving extension or a colour-matched FKM rubber strap, but the 20mm lug width will also make it easy to find fun aftermarket options. The colouring opens up a lot of opportunity for experimentation with NATO straps in particular.
Powering the SUB 300β is an unnamed Swiss movement, although it’s most likely to be a Sellita SW200 as Doxa have moved away from using ETA calibres in recent years. The SW200 is functionally the same as the ETA 2824, with a 38-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate. They’re incredibly popular because of their reliability, affordability, and accuracy. The movement’s hidden behind Doxa’s fish symbol on a solid caseback, but it’s not the most attractive of movements anyway.
The Doxa SUB 300β pricing and availability
The Doxa SUB 300β is now available from Doxa’s website and retailers. Price: US$2,250 (FKM Strap) / US$2,290 (bracelet)
|42.5mm (D) x 11.95mm (T) x 44.5mm (LTL)
|Stainless steel with black ceramic bezel
|300 metres, screw-down crown, helium escape valve
|Caribbean (blue), Professional (black/orange), Searambler (silver), Divingstar (black/yellow), Aquamarine (black/turquoise)
|Steel beads-of-rice bracelet with ratcheting clasp
Colour-matched FKM rubber strap
|Sellita SW200, automatic
|Hours, minutes, seconds, date
|US$ 2,250 (FKM Strap) / US$2,290 (Bracelet)