Has the Zenith G.F.J. actually achieved perfection? Maybe, and the Calibre 135 certainly helps.
Buffy Acacia- Celebrating the brand’s 160th anniversary, the Zenith G.F.J. is named after its founder Georges Favre-Jacot and his vision of perfection.
- The movement is modelled after and improves upon the historic Calibre 135, which won 235 prizes at Swiss observatory chronometry trials from the ‘40s to the ‘60s.
- The dial is made from various sectors of guilloché, lapis lazuli, and dyed mother of pearl.
Every watch brand says they’re chasing perfection, from the haughtiest of luxury names to solo-project microbrands. But for a watchmaker to actually declare perfection? That’s unprecedented, and essentially what Zenith has done with this release. Naming it after the brand’s founder Georges Favre-Jacot, the Zenith G.F.J. is supposed to represent the “zenith” of watchmaking which the man himself set out to achieve in 1865. Of course the definition of perfection in watches is highly subjective, but I will admit that Zenith is right to have searched for it in the blending of past and present.
As much as we associate Zenith today with the sporty likes of the Chronomaster and the technical mastery of the El Primero movements, it was historically known for its outstanding performance in Swiss observatory chronometer trials throughout the first half of the 20th century. Of those trials, it won the most individual chronometry prizes out of any brand with a total of 2,333. Of that total, 235 of them were secured by the Calibre 135 that was produced between 1949 to 1962, more than any other movement in history. That’s the movement that has been recreated to power the Zenith G.F.J., albeit with some contemporary tweaks. It has the same 13 ligne (30mm) diameter as the original 135 and the same general architecture, but its power reserve has been increased from 40 hours to 72 hours, something that has slowly been becoming an industry standard in luxury watchmaking. It has kept its 2.5Hz beat rate and Breguet overcoil, something which you can appreciate from the exhibition caseback. While you’re there, you can also appreciate the “brick” guilloché engraving which was inspired by the Zenith manufacture in Le Locle.
That brick motif also features along the dial’s perimeter, in a sector which houses applied hour batons with highly-polished facets and hand-applied beads in white gold as the minute track. It’s a mesmerising effect that almost overwhelms with detail, but in a way which sparkles like glitter. Speaking of sparkling, the central section of the dial is made from a slice of lapis lazuli, whose tiny pyrite inclusions give a gold-like twinkle to the blue lazurite. A particularly high grade of stone has been used with minimal calcite, reducing the amount of white splotches which can sometimes be seen on lapis dials. Then, there’s a small subdial of mother-of-pearl for the small seconds which has been dyed light blue to match the dial’s overall colour palette, while still offering some contrast.
One of Zenith’s biggest strengths in recent decades has been its case manufacturing, and the G.F.J. doesn’t disappoint. Its silhouette doesn’t divert too far from traditional watch archetypes, but the smooth gradation between the lugs and the case is made even more elegant from the stepped edging that runs continuously along its entire length. The 39.15mm diameter is balanced between impact and delicacy, while the 45.75mm lug-to-lug ensures wearability. It’s only 10.5mm thick as well, and the stepped case design also helps it to look even thinner on-wrist. The case is made from 950 platinum, ensuring that its white lustre will last multiple lifetimes.
Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 price and availability
The Zenith G.F.J. is limited to 160 pieces, marking the 160th anniversary of Zenith. Price: US$49,900
| Brand | Zenith |
| Model | G.F.J. |
| Case Dimensions | 39.15mm (D) x 10.5mm (T) x 45.75mm (LTL) |
| Case material | 950 platinum |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and back |
| Dial | Lapis lazuli, dyed mother of pearl, and brick guilloché |
| Bracelet and strap | Dark blue alligator leather strap with platinum pin buckle Black calfskin leather and blue “Saffiano” calfskin leather Optional platinum bracelet available for purchase |
| Movement | Calibre 135, in-house, manual |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Limited to 160 pieces |
| Price | US$49,900 |