Zenith swaddles the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in elegant rose gold
Buffy Acacia- The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar has returned once more in 18k rose gold.
- With its salmon and charcoal dial tones, it has a much dressier look than the previous steel models.
- The automatic El Primero 3610 displays the weekdays, month, moonphase, and has a 1/10th second chronograph with 60 hours of power reserve.
Most big names in watchmaking dabble in various styles, but few have mastered the connection between vintage and modern like Zenith. As if its retro reissues and ceramic contemporary creations aren’t enough on their own, a watch like the G.F.J. is a stunning example of both worlds colliding. However, while the Swiss legend of chronometry has mainly focused on innovation recently, the new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Gold pays one more tribute to the sophistication of the El Primero in its early days with a rose gold twist.
Some people still recall Zenith along with its 2000s designs under the leadership of Thierry Nataf. But while there’s nothing wrong with daring Y2K monsters, current trends are still more reserved. The revamped Zenith was actually one of the quickest brands to adopt smaller, vintage-accurate case sizes, and the Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Gold is no different. It’s based on a prototype run of 25 pieces back in 1970 which used the A386 case, now legendary among Chronomaster and El Primero collectors. At 38mm in diameter, it’s the same as its predecessor, but far from feeling old-fashioned on the wrist. The lug-to-lug distance is only 46mm, making it even more wearable and granting unisex appeal. Perhaps the most impressive part of the case is actually its finishing, as the brushing on the lugs is actually done in a sunburst pattern radiating out from the dial, rather than just straight or circular. In contrast to the polished chamfers and bezel, it’s quite a striking and unique effect.
When Zenith reissued stainless steel versions of this watch last year, the grey, green, and panda dials played up the inherent sportiness of the Chronomaster’s personality. Now, the rose gold version is understandably much dressier. The charcoal background carries a smokey intrigue, while the rose gold tenths scale and chronograph sub-dials bring the same warm elegance as a salmon dial. The moonphase complication is particularly attractive with its pitch black sky contrasted by the rose gold moon and stars, while the weekday and month indicators blend in subtly. I’m sure there will be those people whose hackles will raise at the date window at 4:30, especially as it cuts into some of the printed numerals, but the dial as a whole is well balanced enough to get away with that minor design crime.
Of course, there’s an El Primero in the back of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, and it’s quite remarkable to think that the extra complications were crammed into the 14mm-tall case. The original El Primero was intended to accommodate modular complications like this, hence the prototype coming out just one year after the unveiling of the original. This automatic chronograph has a high beat rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, allowing you to time intervals down to 1/10th of a second. It has a running seconds hand, a 60-minute counter at 6, and a separate 60-second counter at 3, as the central seconds hand runs faster. Adjusting the moonphase and the weekday displays is done via hidden pushers on the side of the case, while the month is adjusted by scrolling through the quick-set date on the crown. The view through the sapphire caseback is striking, as the winding rotor is skeletonised to reveal an open view of the El Primero.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Gold price and availability
The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Gold is now available. Price: CHF 25,400
| Brand | Zenith |
| Model | Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Gold |
| Reference | 18.3400.3610/21.C911 |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 14mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) |
| Case material | 18k rose gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Black and rose gold |
| Straps | Black calfskin leather with gold folding clasp |
| Movement | El Primero 3610, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, 1/10th second chronograph, date, day, month |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | CHF 25,400 |