At US$630 or less, how does Zelos make a profit with on its detail-driven Helica design?

Zach Blass

As we learned with the Zelos Comet, the Singaporean microbrand delivers intriguing dial materials, colours, and textures at prices bafflingly far less than what you would expect based on the traditions of more established brands. With the Comet, buyers were able to explore a variety of stone and meteorite dials all for under US$2,000 and even a tantalum-cased limited edition with a guilloché crystallised titanium dial for less than US2,500. If you thought those watches were a steal, then the Zelos Helica lineup stands to shock you even more with GADA-spec’d steel watches outfitted with CNC-guilloche dials that are all priced at US$630 or less.

The cases

There are 11 configurations in the collection, presented in either 39mm or 42mm stainless steel cases that share the same faceted form, interplay of mixed finishes, and a 100-metre depth rating. The 39mm case measures 11.9mm thick, including the boxed sapphire crystal, and just 45.5mm lug-to-lug – very favourable and wearable dimensions for most wrists. The 42mm size also comes in at 11.9mm thick, including the boxed sapphire crystal, but spans quite a bit longer at 49mm lug-to-lug. Fit is, of course, subjective, but as someone who likes watches to have a more classic fit on the wrist, I would suggest that the 39mm is best for wrists 7 inches or smaller, while the 42mm would better suit wrists larger than 7 inches.

The dials

As I mentioned, there are 11 configurations of the Helica across both sizes. We got hands-on with one variant from each size. The Helica 39 ‘Galaxy’ above features a blue fumé dial with CNC-guilloché performed in a swirly ‘galaxy pattern’ and enhanced with a layer of glimmer enamel coating to make it feel that much more celestial. At the outermost perimeter of the dial, the minutes track, printed in white, can be found between the applied hour indices that begin from the edge of the dial. Like the three central hands, the applied hour indices have a luminous filling for visibility in darkness.

The Helica 42 ‘Wave Mother-of-Pearl’ features the same hand and applied hour indices layout, but instead utilises a bright mother-of-pearl dial that is decorated with a wavy CNC-guilloché pattern. Like the Helica 39 ‘Galaxy’, a date complication is placed at the balanced 6 o’clock position and blends perfectly into the dial. Even the biggest of watch brands tend to shy away from colour-matched date windows, particularly with smoked or mother-of-pearl dials. But, in each scenario, you will see that Zelos has a real eye for detail and a willingness to make the extra effort with the date in each instance matching the colour of the dial at its dial very, very well.

The bracelet

Both case sizes come on the same multi-link bracelet, largely brushed with polished intermediary link pieces, that has 4 points of micro-adjustment up to 10mm to ensure an ideal fit. The bracelet is tapered, with the 39mm case’s bracelet tapering down from its lug width of 20mm to 16mm and the 42mm case’s bracelet tapering down from a 22mm lug width to 18mm. The bracelets do have quick-release tabs that allow you to easily remove them should you wish to explore aftermarket straps, which, at 20mm and 22mm, there are plenty of options.

The movement

Beneath a solid, engraved caseback ticks the tried-and-true Miyota 9015 automatic movement. Again, the date wheel has been customised to colour-match the dial, and the calibre is known to have an approximate 42 hours of power reserve and a regulation window of +30/-10 seconds per day.

The verdict

Is this a COSC chronometer by any stretch? No. But, for a watch that is robust enough to be a proper daily wearer and aesthetically intriguing enough to be a conversation starter, the attention to detail afforded to the Helica surpasses any expectation I would have for a watch priced at US$630 or less. I also really appreciate the fact that Zelos is presenting a wide range of dial options in both 39mm and 42mm sizes so that all interested in the collection stand to really be able to enjoy it.

Zelos Helica pricing and availability

The Zelos Helica 39 & 42 are available now for purchase. Price: US$599 (Helica 39 ‘Galaxy’), US$629 (Helica 42 ‘Wave Mother-of-Pearl’)

Brand	Zelos
Model	Helica
Case Dimensions	39mm (D) x 11.9mm (T) x 45.5mm (LTL) 42mm (D) x 11.9mm (T) x 49mm (LTL)
Case Material	Stainless steel
Water Resistance	100 metres
Crystal(s)	Boxed sapphire front
Dial	CNC-guilloché dial
Strap	Multi-link stainless steel bracelet, butterfly clasp, micro-adjust
Movement	Miyota 9015, automatic
Power Reserve	42 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Availability	Now
Price	US$599 (Helica 39 ‘Galaxy’) US$629 (Helica 42 ‘Wave Mother-of-Pearl’)