The Yema Superman Gilt CMM.10 costs $650 less than its micro-rotor powered sibling, so what’s the catch?
Zach BlassAt Time+Tide, we have always been curious and excited to find lesser-known brands that deliver high-quality, value-driven watches under US$3,000 – which has become associated with the beginnings of entry-level luxury – especially so ever since we opened our Discovery Studios. With a more educated marketplace, people are rightfully less fussed about luxury and more fixated on quality. One brand that has often impressed us is Yema, a French watch brand founded in 1948 with a long history of manufacturing dive watches. The Yema Superman diver dates back to 1967, but modern Superman watches like the Slim CMM.20 have certainly caught our eye with an in-house 70-hour micro-rotor automatic movement despite being attractively priced at US$2,490. Recently, Yema introduced a new variant, the Yema Superman Gilt CMM.10, and it costs US$650 less. So what’s the catch?
The case
The Yema Superman Gilt CMM.10, like the Slim CMM.20, is cased in stainless steel, has a sapphire bezel insert, and uses the brand’s bezel lock system with which you can only rotate the timing bezel while the crown is unscrewed, preventing it from moving under shock while diving. However, unlike the Slim CMM.20, the Gilt CMM.10 is offered in both 39mm and 41mm sizes. Regardless of the size you choose, both cases are 300 metres water-resistant (with a screw-down crown) and 13.5mm thick (including the 2.2mm double domed sapphire crystal). This is 1.5mm thicker than the Slim CMM.20, including its 2mm thick crystal. From a lug-to-lug standpoint, the 39mm Gilt CMM.10 measures 47mm, and the 41mm version sits at 49mm. This is thanks to case refinements made by Yema that allowed the watch to be only marginally thicker and more compact lug-to-lug than the Superman Slim CMM.20 – a job well done.
The dial
Instead of the lacquered enamel dial you would find on the Slim CMM.20, the Superman Gilt CMM.10 opts for sunburst dials in blue, black, silver, or green, the latter of which is the version we have in hand. All of the dials, true to the model name, are paired with gilt accents seen on the hands, dial text, applied hour indices, and the hashed outer minutes track. The handset and markers are filled with Grade A Super-LumiNova that glows brightly in low-visibility environments. The lacquered enamel on the Slim CMM.20, presumably more costly to manufacture, has a matte appearance, while the Gilt CMM.10 sunburst dials are semi-gloss. This adds a little bit of a flash, which depending on your taste, could point you in one direction or the other. Lastly, returning to the bezel, the Gilt CMM.10 insert uses a different font, and has a fully hashed scale whereas the Slim CMM.20 has a more ’60s-inspired look with markings for only the first 15 minutes.
The bracelet
The fishscale steel bracelet on the Gilt CMM.10 is the same one as seen on the Slim CMM.20. It is a wonderfully distinct style that aesthetically deviates from the common Oyster-style bracelets most brands throw up their hands and emulate. It has a strong vintage-inspired taper down to its double security folding clasp, which notably includes four drilled holes for micro-adjustment and a diver’s extension system to allow for easily strapping the watch over a wetsuit.
The movement
The most obvious switch-up, at least once you flip the watch over, is the transition to the CMM.10 automatic rather than the micro-rotor CMM.20. Both calibres are Olivier Mory’s designs, with some parts manufactured in Yema’s Morteau workshops. This is the culprit of the marginal thickness increase, as the full rotor necessitates being placed above the movement rather than in line with the rest of the calibre. Personally, I find Yema’s CMM.20 more handsome, and enjoy how it feels like it fills even more of the caseback. That being said, you still have darkened bridges, a full balance bridge, and 70 hours of power reserve with the CMM.10, and it also has the benefit of being rated with higher accuracy being regulated of +5/-3 seconds per day rather than the +7/-3 regulation of the CMM.20.
The verdict
In terms of expense, micro-rotor movements typically make a watch more expensive to begin with. I am also inferring the dial difference is likely a second culprit. But the great news is that Yema, whether at US$2,490 with its Slim CMM.20 or with its Gilt CMM.10 priced at US$1,790, is delivering excellent value in both configurations. Aside from being a tad lower in price, the clear potential advantage of the Gilt CMM.10 is the fact buyers can choose between 39mm and 41mm sizes. Regardless of the model or dial you choose, I don’t think you can go wrong whichever avenue you elect to explore.
Yema Superman Gilt CMM.10 pricing and availability
The Yema Superman Gilt CMM.10 is available now for purchase. Price: US$1,790
Brand | Yema |
Model | Superman Gilt CMM.10 |
Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 13.5mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) 41mm (D) x 13.5mm (T) x 49mm (LTL) |
Case Material | Stainless steel, sapphire bezel insert |
Water Resistance | 300 metres, screw-down crown |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and back |
Dial | Green sunburst |
Strap | Fishscale steel bracelet, folding clasp |
Movement | CMM.10, Olivier Mory design, partly produced by Yema, automatic |
Power Reserve | 70 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
Availability | Now |
Price | US$1,790 |